Real quality work, approaching faults thinking about solutions and with serious work and with good tools, he's reaching the goals. This Channel deserves way more subscribers i think
I really like the style of your videos, it's calm and you explain everything concisely and clearly, making it very easy to follow for someone who is interested but not very savvy in mechanics. I can't wait for the next episode!
I've been abandoning my interests and passion in mechanics- especially auto for programming, but your videos make me reconsider my choices. I believe you are very subtle and direct I could almost pick out everything I need to start off my career from your vids! Keep lighting up this fire. Much thanks👍
It’s amazing what good oil will do for an engine. I’ve always been an oil change nut! Can’t do it enough imo. I saw that evacuator and had to get one. Using it this weekend if weather holds on my small stuff- mower, air compressor and generator. Thanks for another amazing video Waldo! The quality is best on YT!! Pet Aspen for me!!
Thanks Pete! It helps if you warm the oil up a bit first, though it's not completely necessary. I changed the oil (5W-40) yesterday on my Golf without heating it up and it took a while to suck all of it out, though it also gave me time to change the filter and reset the oil service indicator 🤷♂️
Yup, my Jag F-pace had a turbo & entire exhaust system replaced under warranty just before I bought it. The likely cause of failure was 20k oil change intervals (!) plus auto-stop/start plus low mileage (e.g. city driving in a hot climate) plus a ridiculously small filter.... Under my ownership, it will get 3k mile oil changes, cheap insurance. Just did the first of a couple of 500 mile flushes and it's already running way better.
I describe 'excess' (re those specified in the service manual which are limited by manufacturers to keep the overall car running costs competitive) oil/filter changes as being idiot engineering. Easy to do and so beneficial. Expenditure of tens of dollars/pounds that save thousands.
With the oil filter being upside down there should be a check valve to keep the oil from draining out after it has sat for a period of time. This causes the engine to starve of oil on start up until oil pressure builds up. I am 76 years so my memory isn’t the best but my 1953 Willys Pickup had its oil filter upside down and I had the same issue with engine noise on start up. This causes wear on the bearings and other internal parts because they don’t receive oil to the bearings - rod - crankshaft- cam + pistons and so on until oil pressure builds up. Unnecessary internal wear and the noise most likely is bearing with no oil for on start up. It might be worth checking out. Thanks
I'm glad you're back on the Range Rover project. I'm not big fan of car repair videos, but you're first Range rover video changed my mind that's why I subscribed,I would love to see more of it.
Keep the videos coming, I really enjoy watching all of them. It may sound trivial, but I see so many people, mechanics included who don't know to pour the oil out of the jug sideways like you did to avoid the air gulping and splashing. props!
These whole videos about this Range Rover are only an advertisement for the fluid extractor and the compression tester and stethoscope etc , in the last video he extracted the fuel from the tank which make no sense, and in this video he used the stethoscope which you don't actually need , Also i believe he sabotages the car then makes it seem like he is actually fixing it just to get the ad revenue
@@salahgh3081 Trolls will be trolls, but that is the first thing you check when determining your next step. I use a long screwdriver (I put my ear up to the handle) to check where the noise is coming from. but the stethoscope is better. (I am just frugal) He is just following the proper basic diagnostic chart.
@@FRUGALWITHJOHN Exactly. All of us technicians use some sort of stethoscope or an alternative such as a sufficiently long screwdriver to diagnose certain noises. Also great for diagnosing bad bearings in the belt drive assembly (I'm a Honda tech. We get a lot of bad tensioners) and bad fuel injectors.
Because people do not service them often enough and if/ when they do only suck half the oil with this stupid suction method so its not even a proper oil change
@@dave216dx It's probably designed to have the oil changed that way. Can't say for sure on Land Rover, but most German cars are for sure, especially Volkswagens and Audis.
Man, I am so happy to see this! The car isn't mine but what a relief was this video! And speaking about the mileage, that number surprised me too, because here in Brazil is unusual to see a RR Vogue with more than 200 thousand kilometers (120k miles). Congrats sir , another great video.
This is the best DIY-diagnostic-fix video I have seen in a long while. An excellent presenter, great editing, and all round an enjoyable watch. Subscribed!
My 03 Silverado ran pretty rough when i first got it. I ran seafoam a few times through the fuel, oil, and air intake and it made a world of difference. Cleaned the engine right up and it ran much smoother and improved gas mileage.
@@frasermooi second this. my moms 2013 range rover sport was always maintained at a Landrover dealer and made it to 177k miles with no issues. transmission started slipping though but i think thats just her driving that did that. Was well surprised
Range Rovers and Discos are complex.they MUST be serviced assiduously. If one is not seriously mechanically minded and equipped,or can not afford the excruciating Dealer service charges,then they are not for you !
The noise, was the bypass valve under the oil filter. Easy way to test that one, is rev the engine up to 2500, the noise should vanish, because enough volume and pressure is moving to keep the valve open all the time.
Love that interior on your Range Rover , lm keeping my Fingers crossed that the timing tensioner and belt/chain Completely sort’s everything out Waldo . BTW , l am a complete fan of all your videos. Excellent work buddy
I knew it as I had stated in the previous vid and I'm glad it's just the oil quality and quantity it seems like it's exactly like some mercedes the chain and guides do get damaged due to not being oiled correctly iv started using 10w40 instead of 5w40 as it's a little thicker obviously ....great content as usual
You'll notice the difference between 5w and 10w in the mornings when cold starting that grinding sound for a few seconds gets less as the oil pumps to the top it quickly coats the chain etc as a pose to the 5w which takes a little longer
@@MrMit50101 actually, wouldnt the thinner oil (5w40) circulate more quickly than the thicker 10w40? Thus preventing additional wear on cold start as the 10w40 is thicker and takes a bit longer to travel due to increased viscosity?
@@dfweurocars agreed and so I also thought as the car requires 5w40 but then was made aware that as quick as the 5w moves up it also coats the parts but then wants to drop down equally as fast so takes a little longer to create a proper thick coating so I decided to try it and while my car c180 cgi would "grind" for roughly 20 seconds on start up previously which I was told is normal after putting 10w(9 months back) it's now down to definitely between 5 and 10 seconds and when warm sometimes there is no sound at all tested on our e200 cgi aswell did the service about 3 weeks back and its had the same effect I am also surprised even the Castrol website says 5w is correct for the car same as obviously Mercedes but going forward I will be running 10w I can see the difference the chain and guides were done on the cclass about a year and a half ago and there was visible wearing on the parts and I am very meticulous with oil services but always used the Mercedes oil now I use Castrol
I’m sure the timing chain tensioner is ran off oil pressure and depending on how particular those engines are. The slight change in viscosity or drop in oil pressure could result in chain slap and a few degrees off of timing *depending on how sloppy it actually is*. I believe you’re on the right track.
I have had several Land Rovers and a couple Range Rovers and I would highly recommend getting rid of the air suspension. If you plannon ever driving it off road springs will treat you alot better. Lucky 8 offroad has kits to convert the springs. Another thing is as Rovers age alot of people put slightly thicker oil in as it helps with wear and compression.
As a new subscriber and owner of three Land Robers I have been anxiously waiting for your next video. Thank you! I know the noise you hear. My ‘11 RRS-SC will be going to a master LR tech who opened his own shop;-). $3500 all in to do the same job the stealership wants $9500. Hope that helps.
Nice fix, oil change can do a lot of good. Just be careful when lifting the car with air bag suspension as you can damage the air bags when the wheels are on full droop. 2 post lifts are normally not bueno with these cars. Cheers 🍻
Land Rover tech here. No need for any special procedure before lifting Rovers with air suspension. Good air struts won't be damaged at full extension. You do want to disable the air if you'll be doing work around the wheels or suspension though, so the car won't try to adjust itself while work is being done.
Great job Waldo.. To understand the machine we love and use is much better than chunking out another couple thousand dollars for a fancier one.. lots of love from another petrolhead.. peace bro..
Awesome victory. You knew you were in for a tough time with expensive and complicated Range Rover parts, but you’re ahead of the game with what looks like a complicated timing system.
I have a very noisy Mercedes Viano engine here in Germany which was surprising as my S-Class ran like a sewing machine. Against all my colleagues advice and one of those is a ``Meister´´ Mechanic I put in an oil additive called White Lightening, a bit like Slick 50, within minutes the Engine sounded a lot quieter. For bigger engines I always use Mobil1 0 or 5 oil for smooth cold starts in winter. Great video, and I was shocked that a simple oil change could just about kill all that knocking.
Maybe someone used the wrong weight of oil in it as well, or an oil change hadn’t been done frequently enough. Pretty wild it made that big of a difference You work extremely hard, you deserve some good luck.
Wow! Enjoyed both the videos and really blown by the tools you use, as it is all new to me. ( the plunger , the stethoscope, camera etc...) and your patience. Also it shows why the regular oil change in your vehicle is so important 👌😇🙏🙌😀
Hey Waldo nice job, anyone who drinks Twinings and runs Casterol is a winner in my book. Looking forward to seeing the timing kit install. Take care out there... 👍
Actually TH-cam Recommended Me the First Video and Loved Your Presentation and the Information. After Your Video, I Watched Samcracs Videos about Ranger Rover and It was a Huge mess. Hope This will end up much better than that : )
My son has a BMW 118d N47, a model that is notorious for timing chain failure. His is still OK according to my mechanic, but a friend with the same model had to change on his and it cost nearly the value of the car. Why I write this is bcs Waldo does such excellent videos where he explains the problems so that a nube DIY mechanic like me 'may' do the job myself (I repeat 'may'). Anyways, you're a thrill to watch ...
I love ur channel n how the way u explained the things to do n always try to do the cheapest way to solve the problem, very easy to understand n follow.great job n take care
I'm in the UK and have had Range Rovers for about 20 years, got to be honest I don't like the suction method for removing oil myself, but if you put 9oz of seafoam in with oil and run the car for 100 or 200 miles and then drain when hot and leave overnight with the oil filter also removed,...you'll have a nice clean engine inside, just a tip and my engines are always clean when I have a look through the oil filler ...no carbon at all...Nice car a bargain 👌
Most likely a hydraulic lash adjuster, years ago I knew a reputable machinist that had a similar issue with a Mitsubishi engine. He wasn’t well versed in the import world. Old school drag racer type. The oil galleys in those engines are tiny up in the cylinder heads as are all the dohc engines now. He was attempting to use 15/40 oil, not nearly enough flow to keep the Hla’s happy. All the oil pressure in the world won’t help if the oil isn’t moving through ALL of the galleys. Long story short 3 qts of 5/30 and 1 atf cured his issue, then we changed the oil again after flushing the lifters for about 20 miles. Funny how they had the heads off 2x looking for the problem 😆 all I hear in that engine may be a Hla or 2 and the fuel injectors clicking.
Ive been waiting for this like many others, o think its so cool and amazing idea to get it cheap and fix it urself its good when you know what to do, my mums ute engine blew up so im probably gonna put a new engine in it one day
Great information there , I wonder if the oil pressure is connected to the Timming chain adjusters , it obviously sensitive on oil viscosity, em interesting , good luck with the strip down ! You will make it interesting I know , Thank you Waldo !
My Rover R75 has exactly the same engine noise :/ but only on cold (morning) ignition, and just for about 1-2 minutes, then it fades away. I’m excited for the part 3, nice video bro! Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
Wow man this video's poppin! That's awesome that fresh oil helped so much. The factory JLR OCI is so ridiculously long to begin with, and it looks stretched well beyond that. The 20w just doesn't have the shear strength to have any substance left to it after such neglect. I switched mine to 5w30 but in your cold climate the 20w is probably fine, just stick to short term LOF's. I know the handy box of tools will come in for the timing job, but that's sweet that most of the resolution happened without even pulling an injector. I had no idea people would be so interested in this or I would have filmed the one I told you about that had the warped block. Nice work
Thanks Joe! I'll probably stick with 5W-20, but I always cut my OCIs short. I'm looking forward to getting this thing on the road once the timing is fixed 👍
@@WaldosWorld most definitely! I like diesel trucks as much as the next guy, but a Rover is a blissful place to be😁 While being just unreliable enough to stay on your toes and keep it fun😂
@@WaldosWorld Good news that the oil fixed most of the rattle. Was going to suggest timing as low/poor oil affects the tensioner which then trashes the guides. Sounds like you have it under control. Best to remove the bumper and cooling pack for this job.....
I also have a ‘11 RR and was told the oil to use is a Castrol Professional and I think the weight was a bit different from yours as well. I’m no expert on any of that, just relaying my experience and the information I got from the LR dealer and my local Specialist. Love your RR videos.
Oil change does make a huge difference. I was using 15W40 fully synthetic oil for my Hyndai Grand i10 (Diesel hatchback available in India). The company recommended 5W40. Once I started to follow the instructions the engine noise reduced to half. Never in my wildest dreams I thought noise can be reduced just by changing Engine OIl
Don't think 15w40 full synthetic is available in india. That i10 is a puny engine LR are money pits. Evident many comps bought it , sold it . It's cancer to automobile industry
In this age when I hear an engine rattle I immediately go to VCT, unless it doesn't have it. Almost everything has now for some time. Once you hear a couple you can easily distinguish by the pitch of the rattle.
when doing timing chains take note of any factory parts that are marked "not for re-use" had a sprocket that looked fine fall to bits not long after a chain replacement on a Toyota engine that was so marked in the factory manual, totalled the entire engine!
Profesional work, really like that you don't replace unnesesary things. It doesnt need to shine to be good! Thanks for the video ,waiting to see if the timing is really false.
I would suggest go 5w30 at this moment. I never been a believer of 20 weight oil, specially if the engine has a few miles. My opinion just too thin for a motor that big. Leave that stuff for a corolla engine. Just my .02
Low quality oil probably messed with the oil pressure driven VVT which caused the VVT phasers to rattle. It's a known issue on Fords and I'm assuming the Rover shares a good amount of engineering with them since they were owned by Ford.
The 5.0 is coyote the 3.0 is coyote with 2 cylinders sawed off the 2.0 tt is 2.0 ecoboost so...these range of rovers 2010 too 2018 had many fomoco parts....before 2010 was BMW this is to be avoided...think ofbthe longevity of the mustang and f150 it transfers the LR4 RR and RRsport....a very good buy. They got a bad rap from the BMW ownership days.
I’d highly recommend switching to a 30 or even a 40 weight oil with that motor. My brother was a tech for many years with LR and they just suggested such a low weight oil for emissions. You’ll be surprised how much smoother it will feel with the thicker oil. This is pretty common across most euro cars. Go with platinum euro 5w-40.
5W-40 isnt thicker than a 5w-20. The 40 indicates the higher temperatur resistance of the oil. 5w indicates the viscosity at Low temperatures. Belive me im Out of the EU. ;)
WHAT??? 5W-40 OIL!!! ARE YOU CRAZY??? The reason for lighter weight motor oils is so the oil can get to critical engine parts QUICKLY upon start up, which is the most critical time in an engine's life! Sure, changing to a heavier weight ("thicker") oil will make the engine run & sound "smoother" because a thicker oil will provide a dampening effect to the mechanical processes going on. JLR (Jaguar/Land Rover) has obviously done extensive testing on their engines, along with Castrol Motor Oils, to determine the proper spec motor oils for their engines. And as to the comment that changing to a heavier 30 or 40 wt. oil will be better for emissions. that's also incorrect. JLR actually changed the oil specification for the later AJ133 engine from 5W-20 Full Synthetic to 0W-20 Full Synthetic for emissions and to increase gas mileage. Remember that the beginning number of an oil spec. (in this case the 5) represents the heaviness/thickness or ability for the engine oil to flow when the engine is cold, in its operating environment. And the last number is the heaviness/thickness of the oil to flow when it's at operating temperature. If you change to a heavier weight motor oil, i.e. 5W-20 to 5w-40, the oil isn't going to flow as well at normal operating temperature, possibly starving critical engine components of needed lubrication. These precision mechined motors have very small and intricate oil passageways that can become blocked easily by the smallest particles of dirt and a heavier weight of oil will make that possibility even greater by not allowing the oil to flow more freely. And MOST IMPORTANTLY, the timing system if the AJ133 engine (which is prone to early break down due to a DEFECTIVE DRSIGN and FAULTY PARTS) is controlled and lubricated by the engine's oil. The VVT (variable valve timing) system will not function properly if the oil viscosity is changed to a heavier weight oil, thus causing engine timing issues and possible catastrophic engine damage. I own a 2012 full size Range Rover Autobiography with the Supercharged AJ133 engine that has 96K and it has the identifiable engine "rattle" and is throwing the usual engine codes, symbolizing a needed timing chain repair. I've been investigating the issue and been doing weeks of research as to why it happens, who's fault is it (Google: Land Rover timing chain class action lawsuit) and how to prevent it. Besides the 2 main faulty parts that were installed at production, the most important things are to do sooner oil changes (15K is a joke) and use the proper spec. oil. E'Nuff Said! I Hope all of my time & research can benefit all of you other GREAT Land Rover owners out there.
@@Rottweiler-Lover I've always wondered about the fascination for using oil that differs from manufacturer's specifications. My own car requires oil that meets either ACEA-C1 or JASO DL-1. These are both low SAPS oils and can only be found in either 0w30 or 5w30. It has never occurred to me to use anything else.
![I Found This Broken Bolt in the Crankcase of my Cheap Range Rover’s Engine! [Part 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UAdKUKczMg4/mqdefault.jpg)
![I Found This Broken Bolt in the Crankcase of my Cheap Range Rover’s Engine! [Part 3]](/img/tr.png)
![Replacing Crankshaft Bearings and the Oil Pump in my Cheap Range Rover [Part 5]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sNqKducDQoQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This video has 122k views on a channel with 122k subs. This man is getting 100% engagement.
1,1 Million views now, because auf new subscribers like me. :D
It's spelled Of not Auf
2025: He has 1.2 million views and 523k subscribers
Dang. Straight to the point. No annoying ads/sponsors. Random farm things to stimulate my brain. Nice channel.
Real quality work, approaching faults thinking about solutions and with serious work and with good tools, he's reaching the goals. This Channel deserves way more subscribers i think
I really like the style of your videos, it's calm and you explain everything concisely and clearly, making it very easy to follow for someone who is interested but not very savvy in mechanics. I can't wait for the next episode!
You have nothing better to do?
@@ThunderAppeal your mom?
@@Neighbourhooddegenerate You learned to read and write. Congradulations you idiots.
@@ThunderAppeal Apparently you don't...
Meanwhile, Scotty Kilmer screaming in my mind ‘Endless money pit’ 😂😅😂
I don't even have a car myself, but I enjoyed watching the meticulous diagnostic work you have done so far from the time you bought this vehicle.
I've been abandoning my interests and passion in mechanics- especially auto for programming, but your videos make me reconsider my choices. I believe you are very subtle and direct I could almost pick out everything I need to start off my career from your vids! Keep lighting up this fire. Much thanks👍
That's great to hear! 👍
Use the money you make as a programmer to find your auto dreams yo.
I loved the part when you were making some tea, helps calm nerves and think better
Good job and cant wait for Part 3
Beer is what I usually use for that purpose!
Thank you! Yeah, a tea break sure can help 👍
😂@@marklibby4629
It’s amazing what good oil will do for an engine. I’ve always been an oil change nut! Can’t do it enough imo. I saw that evacuator and had to get one. Using it this weekend if weather holds on my small stuff- mower, air compressor and generator. Thanks for another amazing video Waldo! The quality is best on YT!! Pet Aspen for me!!
Thanks Pete! It helps if you warm the oil up a bit first, though it's not completely necessary. I changed the oil (5W-40) yesterday on my Golf without heating it up and it took a while to suck all of it out, though it also gave me time to change the filter and reset the oil service indicator 🤷♂️
@@WaldosWorld good to know!! Thank you
Yup, my Jag F-pace had a turbo & entire exhaust system replaced under warranty just before I bought it. The likely cause of failure was 20k oil change intervals (!) plus auto-stop/start plus low mileage (e.g. city driving in a hot climate) plus a ridiculously small filter....
Under my ownership, it will get 3k mile oil changes, cheap insurance. Just did the first of a couple of 500 mile flushes and it's already running way better.
@@ckm-mkc glad to hear this! I was brought up with 2 months or 2000 miles. This was before synthetic, but never had an engine issue
I describe 'excess' (re those specified in the service manual which are limited by manufacturers to keep the overall car running costs competitive) oil/filter changes as being idiot engineering. Easy to do and so beneficial. Expenditure of tens of dollars/pounds that save thousands.
With the oil filter being upside down there should be a check valve to keep the oil from draining out after it has sat for a period of time. This causes the engine to starve of oil on start up until oil pressure builds up. I am 76 years so my memory isn’t the best but my 1953 Willys Pickup had its oil filter upside down and I had the same issue with engine noise on start up. This causes wear on the bearings and other internal parts because they don’t receive oil to the bearings - rod - crankshaft- cam + pistons and so on until oil pressure builds up. Unnecessary internal wear and the noise most likely is bearing with no oil for on start up. It might be worth checking out. Thanks
I'm glad you're back on the Range Rover project.
I'm not big fan of car repair videos, but you're first Range rover video changed my mind that's why I subscribed,I would love to see more of it.
That's awesome, thank you!
Keep the videos coming, I really enjoy watching all of them. It may sound trivial, but I see so many people, mechanics included who don't know to pour the oil out of the jug sideways like you did to avoid the air gulping and splashing. props!
Second video ive watched of you, you really produce some high quality videos man, keep it up, you can easily get to 1M.
That’s almost unbelievable how the oil quality and quantity could make that much noise difference 👍🏻🏴
These whole videos about this Range Rover are only an advertisement for the fluid extractor and the compression tester and stethoscope etc , in the last video he extracted the fuel from the tank which make no sense, and in this video he used the stethoscope which you don't actually need ,
Also i believe he sabotages the car then makes it seem like he is actually fixing it just to get the ad revenue
@@salahgh3081 Trolls will be trolls, but that is the first thing you check when determining your next step. I use a long screwdriver (I put my ear up to the handle) to check where the noise is coming from. but the stethoscope is better. (I am just frugal) He is just following the proper basic diagnostic chart.
@@FRUGALWITHJOHN Exactly. All of us technicians use some sort of stethoscope or an alternative such as a sufficiently long screwdriver to diagnose certain noises. Also great for diagnosing bad bearings in the belt drive assembly (I'm a Honda tech. We get a lot of bad tensioners) and bad fuel injectors.
Because people do not service them often enough and if/ when they do only suck half the oil with this stupid suction method so its not even a proper oil change
@@dave216dx It's probably designed to have the oil changed that way. Can't say for sure on Land Rover, but most German cars are for sure, especially Volkswagens and Audis.
Waldo can't believe changing the oil cleared bup the noise! Always enjoy watching!
Imagine how cheated and defrauded the original owner feels now from that initial ispection.
Don't underestimate the cost of paying a mechanic to fix the timing. It'll cost *many* thousands of dollars! 👍
He wasn’t cheated, he didn’t want to deal with the cost of diagnosis and repair. That was his choice.
He should be sent this video and a n emoji 🎉
Sounds like a fake story told by the TH-camr . No way he got that for only 2k
Most likely the actual fraud is the "auction purchase" of this vehicle for 2k.
Man, I am so happy to see this! The car isn't mine but what a relief was this video! And speaking about the mileage, that number surprised me too, because here in Brazil is unusual to see a RR Vogue with more than 200 thousand kilometers (120k miles). Congrats sir , another great video.
Thank you! It'll be interesting to see how many miles I can get out of this engine 🤔
People seem to forget 2 key things about car ownership; change the lube, use manufacturer recommended lube. Simple.
Or some manufacturers recommended equivalent.
Use MB oil go broke
@@chieftain8638 like I said, "or use an equivalent"
This is the best DIY-diagnostic-fix video I have seen in a long while. An excellent presenter, great editing, and all round an enjoyable watch. Subscribed!
My 03 Silverado ran pretty rough when i first got it. I ran seafoam a few times through the fuel, oil, and air intake and it made a world of difference. Cleaned the engine right up and it ran much smoother and improved gas mileage.
I've only had one engine it did anything for, but have seafoamed the top end on everything I've owned because it sure is entertaining 😆
Holy moly i would never thought that such unreliable engine could be sort of with an oil change
These engines are not unreliable if maintained properly.
@@frasermooi second this. my moms 2013 range rover sport was always maintained at a Landrover dealer and made it to 177k miles with no issues. transmission started slipping though but i think thats just her driving that did that. Was well surprised
Range Rovers and Discos are complex.they MUST be serviced assiduously. If one is not seriously mechanically minded and equipped,or can not afford the excruciating Dealer service charges,then they are not for you !
The noise, was the bypass valve under the oil filter. Easy way to test that one, is rev the engine up to 2500, the noise should vanish, because enough volume and pressure is moving to keep the valve open all the time.
Noticed this with my Disco4 with the 5.0 V8, this gives me a solid starting point!
How do you fix that?
@@rotorsnap Never let the revs fall below 2500rpm 🤣🤣
How do you replace this? Do you have the part number for the bypass valve?
My new favorite TH-cam Chanel! Detailed, entertaining and more importantly to the point!
I like the way you explain the whole process, anybody can understand so easily
Very interesting video. I like when just good maintenance goes far to help vehicles run better like this. Looking forward to the timing chain fix.
Love that interior on your Range Rover , lm keeping my
Fingers crossed that the timing tensioner and belt/chain
Completely sort’s everything out Waldo . BTW , l am
a complete fan of all your videos. Excellent work buddy
I knew it as I had stated in the previous vid and I'm glad it's just the oil quality and quantity it seems like it's exactly like some mercedes the chain and guides do get damaged due to not being oiled correctly iv started using 10w40 instead of 5w40 as it's a little thicker obviously ....great content as usual
You'll notice the difference between 5w and 10w in the mornings when cold starting that grinding sound for a few seconds gets less as the oil pumps to the top it quickly coats the chain etc as a pose to the 5w which takes a little longer
@@MrMit50101 actually, wouldnt the thinner oil (5w40) circulate more quickly than the thicker 10w40?
Thus preventing additional wear on cold start as the 10w40 is thicker and takes a bit longer to travel due to increased viscosity?
@@dfweurocars agreed and so I also thought as the car requires 5w40 but then was made aware that as quick as the 5w moves up it also coats the parts but then wants to drop down equally as fast so takes a little longer to create a proper thick coating so I decided to try it and while my car c180 cgi would "grind" for roughly 20 seconds on start up previously which I was told is normal after putting 10w(9 months back) it's now down to definitely between 5 and 10 seconds and when warm sometimes there is no sound at all tested on our e200 cgi aswell did the service about 3 weeks back and its had the same effect I am also surprised even the Castrol website says 5w is correct for the car same as obviously Mercedes but going forward I will be running 10w I can see the difference the chain and guides were done on the cclass about a year and a half ago and there was visible wearing on the parts and I am very meticulous with oil services but always used the Mercedes oil now I use Castrol
@@MrMit50101 Thanks for responding back! I own a 2010 C300 w/ chain and noisy guides on startup. Very Interesting...
@@MrMit50101 how many miles on your C180? I have about 133K on the C300..
I’m sure the timing chain tensioner is ran off oil pressure and depending on how particular those engines are. The slight change in viscosity or drop in oil pressure could result in chain slap and a few degrees off of timing *depending on how sloppy it actually is*. I believe you’re on the right track.
Exactly correct
You had me at a loss for words too on that oil change. That’s awesome!
I have had several Land Rovers and a couple Range Rovers and I would highly recommend getting rid of the air suspension. If you plannon ever driving it off road springs will treat you alot better. Lucky 8 offroad has kits to convert the springs. Another thing is as Rovers age alot of people put slightly thicker oil in as it helps with wear and compression.
Your mechanical knowledge is phenomenal. I could sit all day in your class.
As a new subscriber and owner of three Land Robers I have been anxiously waiting for your next video. Thank you! I know the noise you hear. My ‘11 RRS-SC will be going to a master LR tech who opened his own shop;-). $3500 all in to do the same job the stealership wants $9500. Hope that helps.
Such a soothing, calm presentation. Love this guy!
Nice fix, oil change can do a lot of good. Just be careful when lifting the car with air bag suspension as you can damage the air bags when the wheels are on full droop. 2 post lifts are normally not bueno with these cars. Cheers 🍻
Land Rover tech here. No need for any special procedure before lifting Rovers with air suspension. Good air struts won't be damaged at full extension.
You do want to disable the air if you'll be doing work around the wheels or suspension though, so the car won't try to adjust itself while work is being done.
Great job Waldo.. To understand the machine we love and use is much better than chunking out another couple thousand dollars for a fancier one.. lots of love from another petrolhead.. peace bro..
I found this channel back in December you are awesome dude I’m so happy you have over 100,000 subscribers keep it up
Thank you so much!
Awesome victory. You knew you were in for a tough time with expensive and complicated Range Rover parts, but you’re ahead of the game with what looks like a complicated timing system.
I have a very noisy Mercedes Viano engine here in Germany which was surprising as my S-Class ran like a sewing machine.
Against all my colleagues advice and one of those is a ``Meister´´ Mechanic I put in an oil additive called White Lightening, a bit like Slick 50, within minutes the Engine sounded a lot quieter.
For bigger engines I always use Mobil1 0 or 5 oil for smooth cold starts in winter.
Great video, and I was shocked that a simple oil change could just about kill all that knocking.
Thanks Waldo, yep looking forward to part 3..................its amazing what new oil and filter can do
amazing what an oil change can do to an engine.
looking forward to Part 3
what a beautiful interior
Coming home from work to a new Waldo video 🤙🏻
Waldo, I gotta say, after watching one video of yours I subscribed. Good going. I'm glad I found you. Keep em comin!
Maybe someone used the wrong weight of oil in it as well, or an oil change hadn’t been done frequently enough. Pretty wild it made that big of a difference
You work extremely hard, you deserve some good luck.
Yeah, I think the previous owner may have neglected it a bit too much 🤷♂️
You have nothing better to do?
@@WaldosWorldThe factory recommended oil change intervals were way too long on these engines. It led to many problems with the timing components.
There's an IT joke where you just restart the computer and it work? In mechanic, just change your oil and oil filter.
Wow! Enjoyed both the videos and really blown by the tools you use, as it is all new to me. ( the plunger , the stethoscope, camera etc...) and your patience. Also it shows why the regular oil change in your vehicle is so important 👌😇🙏🙌😀
You have nothing better to do?
Gosh, that is a genuine luck you got there mate! Can't wait for the 3rd ep.
Hey Waldo nice job, anyone who drinks Twinings and runs Casterol is a winner in my book. Looking forward to seeing the timing kit install. Take care out there... 👍
Big award for making a cup of tea the right way!
Actually TH-cam Recommended Me the First Video and Loved Your Presentation and the Information. After Your Video, I Watched Samcracs Videos about Ranger Rover and It was a Huge mess. Hope This will end up much better than that : )
Thank you! I hope so too! 🤠
Just picked up my first L322! need to work my way back through your videos :)
That was so cool, when the changing of oil made the noise go away there was a smile on my face so big as I felt I've found this hack myself :))
I recently discovered your channel and I have to say your videos are so well made.
You are an excellent mechanic! Well done on Diagnosing the probable issue, and solving said issue.
Well done!
My son has a BMW 118d N47, a model that is notorious for timing chain failure. His is still OK according to my mechanic, but a friend with the same model had to change on his and it cost nearly the value of the car. Why I write this is bcs Waldo does such excellent videos where he explains the problems so that a nube DIY mechanic like me 'may' do the job myself (I repeat 'may'). Anyways, you're a thrill to watch ...
Mechanic Waldo on tea break, hard on thoughts, light bulb brighten a bit. Waldo might be lucky guy, if it just timing chain.
Im so invested- can't wait to see the car running tip top. Good work, you know your stuff.
You gave the same response as i did when your saw where you oil filter was made. Only mine was made in Dubai !
I love ur channel n how the way u explained the things to do n always try to do the cheapest way to solve the problem, very easy to understand n follow.great job n take care
that's insane that the knocking is mostly gone with using some oil. i wonder why Land rover wouldnt put some thread locker on those timing chain nuts.
I'm in the UK and have had Range Rovers for about 20 years, got to be honest I don't like the suction method for removing oil myself, but if you put 9oz of seafoam in with oil and run the car for 100 or 200 miles and then drain when hot and leave overnight with the oil filter also removed,...you'll have a nice clean engine inside, just a tip and my engines are always clean when I have a look through the oil filler ...no carbon at all...Nice car a bargain 👌
I'd change the main timing chain tensioner first before replacing everything, the main timing chain tensioner gets weak with age, just a thought...
Most likely a hydraulic lash adjuster, years ago I knew a reputable machinist that had a similar issue with a Mitsubishi engine. He wasn’t well versed in the import world. Old school drag racer type. The oil galleys in those engines are tiny up in the cylinder heads as are all the dohc engines now. He was attempting to use 15/40 oil, not nearly enough flow to keep the Hla’s happy. All the oil pressure in the world won’t help if the oil isn’t moving through ALL of the galleys. Long story short 3 qts of 5/30 and 1 atf cured his issue, then we changed the oil again after flushing the lifters for about 20 miles. Funny how they had the heads off 2x looking for the problem 😆 all I hear in that engine may be a Hla or 2 and the fuel injectors clicking.
That's a good example of how important oil can be! 👍
Ive been waiting for this like many others, o think its so cool and amazing idea to get it cheap and fix it urself its good when you know what to do, my mums ute engine blew up so im probably gonna put a new engine in it one day
Great information there , I wonder if the oil pressure is connected to the Timming chain adjusters , it obviously sensitive on oil viscosity, em interesting , good luck with the strip down ! You will make it interesting I know , Thank you Waldo !
Thanks Steve! Yeah, I bet there is a connection there 👍
You're correct, almost every modern timing chain tensioner uses a spring AND oil pressure to tension the chain.
This car will be an amazing deal once it’s all redone. Nice find👍
Wow Waldo,amazed that the oil quality made such a difference...
Look forward to part 3!!
dude u got me hyped for this Rover! Keep the good work!
Awesome video Waldo
Yes late engines with vvt or cam phasers are very delicate about oil type
My Rover R75 has exactly the same engine noise :/ but only on cold (morning) ignition, and just for about 1-2 minutes, then it fades away.
I’m excited for the part 3, nice video bro! Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
This video blew my mind and gave me a huge smile after the oil change, what a steal!! Great vid Waldo, keep em coming. Good content pays brother!
Thank you!
Wow man this video's poppin! That's awesome that fresh oil helped so much. The factory JLR OCI is so ridiculously long to begin with, and it looks stretched well beyond that. The 20w just doesn't have the shear strength to have any substance left to it after such neglect. I switched mine to 5w30 but in your cold climate the 20w is probably fine, just stick to short term LOF's. I know the handy box of tools will come in for the timing job, but that's sweet that most of the resolution happened without even pulling an injector. I had no idea people would be so interested in this or I would have filmed the one I told you about that had the warped block. Nice work
Thanks Joe! I'll probably stick with 5W-20, but I always cut my OCIs short. I'm looking forward to getting this thing on the road once the timing is fixed 👍
@@WaldosWorld most definitely! I like diesel trucks as much as the next guy, but a Rover is a blissful place to be😁 While being just unreliable enough to stay on your toes and keep it fun😂
@@joeyarema912 That's certainly a generous way to put it 😂
Can't wait for the parts to arrive and the third part... 💪
The best thinking always starts with a cup of tea. Top plan Waldo!
I agree! 🤠
@@WaldosWorld Good news that the oil fixed most of the rattle. Was going to suggest timing as low/poor oil affects the tensioner which then trashes the guides. Sounds like you have it under control. Best to remove the bumper and cooling pack for this job.....
Been waiting for this. Keep the content coming bro.
Very excited for part 3!!
I also have a ‘11 RR and was told the oil to use is a Castrol Professional and I think the weight was a bit different from yours as well. I’m no expert on any of that, just relaying my experience and the information I got from the LR dealer and my local Specialist. Love your RR videos.
Yep, you're right about the Castrol Professional being recommended, but I don't think it's readily available 🤷♂️
Right, I’ve only been able to find it at a LR dealer.
hollywood level production and casting, appreciate your work!
Oil change does make a huge difference. I was using 15W40 fully synthetic oil for my Hyndai Grand i10 (Diesel hatchback available in India). The company recommended 5W40. Once I started to follow the instructions the engine noise reduced to half. Never in my wildest dreams I thought noise can be reduced just by changing Engine OIl
Oil is the blood of the car.
Don't think 15w40 full synthetic is available in india. That i10 is a puny engine
LR are money pits. Evident many comps bought it , sold it . It's cancer to automobile industry
In this age when I hear an engine rattle I immediately go to VCT, unless it doesn't have it. Almost everything has now for some time. Once you hear a couple you can easily distinguish by the pitch of the rattle.
Looking forward to part 3, thanks for the content.
want more of this series , awesome work
I read Waldo's world and thought of the typical 1 dollar stores, but nothing could be further from the truth, the content has fascinated me.
when doing timing chains take note of any factory parts that are marked "not for re-use" had a sprocket that looked fine fall to bits not long after a chain replacement on a Toyota engine that was so marked in the factory manual, totalled the entire engine!
Ha ha..man! I never saw a mechanic in my life who uses a stethoscope to check the heart of the vehicle 😹🩺
passionate guy! 🤙💯
Can't wait to see the progress when the next video is published.
Profesional work, really like that you don't replace unnesesary things. It doesnt need to shine to be good! Thanks for the video ,waiting to see if the timing is really false.
Getting hooked on your content. Please keep filming.
This is such a cool series
Thank you! 🤠
@@WaldosWorld I’m on episode 4 already. I can build computers but know nothing of cars. Really interesting. Superb use of affiliate links!
Such a good deal . Your truly blessed to come across such Range Rover . His loss was your gain
I would suggest go 5w30 at this moment. I never been a believer of 20 weight oil, specially if the engine has a few miles. My opinion just too thin for a motor that big. Leave that stuff for a corolla engine. Just my .02
This guy has the best luck on the planet with these auction cars
He really does!!
Epic Stuff! I can literally visualize you giving masterclasses through your channel in a few years. Keep up the great work Waldo : -)
Am really enjoying your content all the way from New Zealand
I could immediately tell that the sound had gone away. That is amazing!
Nice series. Clean, easy to understand, well explained, good video footage. You got a sub :)
A magic result. Well done.
Wow just found this channel, awesome content! Cant wait to see more, good stuff.
Low quality oil probably messed with the oil pressure driven VVT which caused the VVT phasers to rattle. It's a known issue on Fords and I'm assuming the Rover shares a good amount of engineering with them since they were owned by Ford.
The 5.0 is coyote the 3.0 is coyote with 2 cylinders sawed off the 2.0 tt is 2.0 ecoboost so...these range of rovers 2010 too 2018 had many fomoco parts....before 2010 was BMW this is to be avoided...think ofbthe longevity of the mustang and f150 it transfers the LR4 RR and RRsport....a very good buy.
They got a bad rap from the BMW ownership days.
I like the fact that you are very optimistic 😃
Timing chain tensioner is likely oil pressurized, so poor oil quality and/or pressure will affect the chain tension....
I’d highly recommend switching to a 30 or even a 40 weight oil with that motor. My brother was a tech for many years with LR and they just suggested such a low weight oil for emissions. You’ll be surprised how much smoother it will feel with the thicker oil. This is pretty common across most euro cars. Go with platinum euro 5w-40.
5W-40 isnt thicker than a 5w-20. The 40 indicates the higher temperatur resistance of the oil. 5w indicates the viscosity at Low temperatures. Belive me im Out of the EU. ;)
@@franky6947 At running temperature the 5w40 will have higher kinematic velocity than 5w20. That's how multigrade oils work.
WHAT??? 5W-40 OIL!!! ARE YOU CRAZY???
The reason for lighter weight motor oils is so the oil can get to critical engine parts QUICKLY upon start up, which is the most critical time in an engine's life! Sure, changing to a heavier weight ("thicker") oil will make the engine run & sound "smoother" because a thicker oil will provide a dampening effect to the mechanical processes going on. JLR (Jaguar/Land Rover) has obviously done extensive testing on their engines, along with Castrol Motor Oils, to determine the proper spec motor oils for their engines. And as to the comment that changing to a heavier 30 or 40 wt. oil will be better for emissions. that's also incorrect. JLR actually changed the oil specification for the later AJ133 engine from 5W-20 Full Synthetic to 0W-20 Full Synthetic for emissions and to increase gas mileage. Remember that the beginning number of an oil spec. (in this case the 5) represents the heaviness/thickness or ability for the engine oil to flow when the engine is cold, in its operating environment. And the last number is the heaviness/thickness of the oil to flow when it's at operating temperature. If you change to a heavier weight motor oil, i.e. 5W-20 to 5w-40, the oil isn't going to flow as well at normal operating temperature, possibly starving critical engine components of needed lubrication. These precision mechined motors have very small and intricate oil passageways that can become blocked easily by the smallest particles of dirt and a heavier weight of oil will make that possibility even greater by not allowing the oil to flow more freely. And MOST IMPORTANTLY, the timing system if the AJ133 engine (which is prone to early break down due to a DEFECTIVE DRSIGN and FAULTY PARTS) is controlled and lubricated by the engine's oil. The VVT (variable valve timing) system will not function properly if the oil viscosity is changed to a heavier weight oil, thus causing engine timing issues and possible catastrophic engine damage.
I own a 2012 full size Range Rover Autobiography with the Supercharged AJ133 engine that has 96K and it has the identifiable engine "rattle" and is throwing the usual engine codes, symbolizing a needed timing chain repair. I've been investigating the issue and been doing weeks of research as to why it happens, who's fault is it (Google: Land Rover timing chain class action lawsuit) and how to prevent it. Besides the 2 main faulty parts that were installed at production, the most important things are to do sooner oil changes (15K is a joke) and use the proper spec. oil.
E'Nuff Said!
I Hope all of my time & research can benefit all of you other GREAT Land Rover owners out there.
@@franky6947 Higher temperature resistance??? WHO TAUGHT YOU THAT???
@@Rottweiler-Lover I've always wondered about the fascination for using oil that differs from manufacturer's specifications.
My own car requires oil that meets either ACEA-C1 or JASO DL-1. These are both low SAPS oils and can only be found in either 0w30 or 5w30.
It has never occurred to me to use anything else.
Just found your channel and have binged all of your videos. Great stuff!
As a previous Range Rover owner with a love hate relationship towards Land Rovers, I must be honest and say that I am impressed with this video.