Just fixed mine! Thanks a lot!! Easiest way to clock it, is to match the rust marks on the shaft gears with the rust on the tooth of the gear from the actuator. I installed it using that method, added the larger cog as it will only fit the smaller cog one way. Rotated the gears as to loosen the shaft up. Mine was seized from lack of use, rotating the gears to pull that shaft back and forth while the truck was in neutral. So the small cog matched the rust spots, large cog on top, then install the cover last. Make sure to return the shaft to the 2wd position before all this. Also I disconnected the positive battery terminal to avoid lights on the dash, which worked. Also my motor was extremely rusted, can’t believe I freed it up. Didn’t solder the connections just reversed sides of the post so they are under tension when I reinstalled the motor. Works for now, will solder later. I did this process for both actuators, I have both 4 hi and lo now.
Lower motor was good. Upper motor was rust3d and seized. Removed upper motor and flushed with WD40 via small holes in the motor. Tapped on motor with a wrench and the motor shaft broke free. Flushed with more WD40 and turned motor till the crunching stopped and all rust was removed. 4wd works great now! Daved some $. Thank You for the video.
You seem to have a mechanical mind. For someone who has "little automotive" experiences, you excel. Love to see that you are also fearless in everything I've seen you do. Love this channel! Thank you buddy.
Very kind words 🙏 thank you. I guess my only Achilles’ heel is I can’t leave anything alone lol I always look for ways to make something better or improve it. And sometimes that gets expensive. Haha
Thanks for the well detailed explanation. My 2008 tundra is in the shop now, they state it's the actuator and want $1500 to replace. After watching your video, I can't see why I can't just buy the whole part and replace the high and low side motor, erase codes and be good to go. Saving me over a thousand dollars.
yes parts changers not real mechanics 2 fold issues with that most people do not fix junk or rebuild things so at times your best fixer is the off road guys race car hobbiest you now the guy with good junk in his yard/or shop out skirts of town lol. that little Dc motor in that box looks like a standard drill or RC truck truggy SCT 1/10 scale universal motor i think its a 540 size like 10 bucks old 18 volt /12volt drills size type
I have a 2008 Tundra that had a similar problem. I couldn't get into 4 HI. At first it was intermittent, then it just wouldn't go into 4-Hi. Took it to the shop and it was a rusted out, non-functioning actuator. $750 to replace. I was on the road going to Maine this winter, having stopped at my son's place in Hartford, so not many options. After watching this, I probably could have done it myself.
Thanks! This video and the comments, saved me $2500 as well. I did figure out a trick to get the spring tension to push in on the rod. Once you've timed the gear, offset it maybe 1/4-1/2 inch so that when the system repositions the gear to the default 2wd position it applies inward pressure on the rod.
You can remove the actuator while leaving the two shift rods in the transfer case. If you remove both motors, the house will come out without the shift rods. The shift rods don't go bad so they don't need to be replaced. Saving your thousands in labor cost and time.
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Esteban Boden I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
This is a great video, just saved me $2500 min, dealer would forsure change put entire unit, which i dont understand why, if anything just change motors, thanks again !!
Lost 4wd in my 2008. I could hear the actuator motor operating but 4wd would not engage and the 4wd light would just flash. My issue was a cracked vacuum line as you mentioned. Simply cut off the cracked portion and reattached. Good to go! There is a bit of slack in the line to do some trimming fortunately. Thanks for the great video!
So your 4wd would not engage because the cracked end of vacuum hose? You cut it and your 4wd started working again?? Hard to believe. I just took off my 4Hi actuator and freed up the gear it was all jammed. I put it back together, timed up the gear and fastened. Now the 4Hi light just flashes when I turn to 4wd. Maybe I need to cut hose now? I hear noises but doesn't engage. At least the 4Hi light doesn't flash in 2wd now
Like argy, where my vacuum hose slipped onto the nipple it was cracked and dry rotted, I “cut” a very small piece of the end off that was cracked and slipped the fresh cut hose onto the nipple. Now there was a perfect seal for the vacuum to activate the actuator. There is some extra slack in the hose but not much, cut off as little as possible to make sure it will still reach the nipple.
good video. one motor is for 4x2/4x4, the other is for Hi/Lo. from what i see, it would be possible to convert this to a mechanical system, with for each function a separate lever, the perfect setup!
I noticed that you really don’t have to “re-time" the gear. Just leave the gear up in the housing and make sure it’s turned all the way towards the direction of the transfer case, then pop the cover on, works great. It was way easier than I expected. Also, I found that there was no reason to take anything off other than the cover, as my issue was that the motor itself had burned up
I have fixed a couple of them by tapping the housing with a screwdriver handle Sometimes the motors get stuck due to no or rare actuation so a couple whacks will get the job done Good job 👏
Dude I been tryna figure out what it was and found this video and went outside out my car in neutral then did what you said and my 4-Lo light vanished and I could drive the car again thanks a bunch bro 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks for your help. Rusted 4hi actuator motor, worked on it a bit and broke it loose. 4hi works great! No transmission shops in town would touch. All of them referred me to the local Toyota dealer. Their estimate was $3,800, ouch.
Correction on actuator references. The top actuator is the 4WD actuator. Lower is the hi/lo actuator. Yes, you have the front axle ADD actuator too which is a part of the 4WD actuation process to fully decouple the front driveshart. Thank you for putting the great video together otherwise!!
HUGE help, thanks! Pulled the bottom off first (Hi/Lo) and jumped the motor. Worked great. Pulled the top (4wd on/off) and sure enough, dead motor. Reassembled so I can drive it but I'd like to replace the motor. Anyone have a resource and part number?
I'm looking at this method to access the o ring that seals the actuator to the transfer case. What I'm worried about is when I pull the gear plate off the actuator, does it all stay intact so that it syncs up when I put it back on, or is there a risk of the gears and stuff falling off when I take it off the actuator?
Super helpful thanks! 4hi in my sequoia is slow up activate, basically have to be moving, tap the gas a few times and it will engage within 5-10 seconds. If I disengage and reengage it will do it much quicker the second time. So not sure if it's more of a vacuum issue or the motor. I'm curious though. Everything appears to be electronic, so what's the point of the vacuum line then?
Thank you for the education. Had issues with the door actuator, as well. STEALERSHIP wanted $250 plus labor...NO WAY! Do your research...I bought just the motor for $3 on line. STEALERSHIPs hate this !! Thanks for sharing....
So I broke my micro switch that engages when metal arm hits it. What’s the part number for this? I don’t want to have to get a whole new actuator motor.
Awesome video. Can someone clarify on how to verify or adjust the rods to make sure they are in the correct position? What setting do you put the truck in first before doing the repair? 2/4hi/4lo? If the rod is out of position, how do you correct it? Thanks in advance?
So if the car is in 2wD when you do the fix you won’t need to mess with the rods because they are locked in. If your car is stuck in 4WD, putting your car in neutral is the only away to adjust the rods and move them. If your car is locked and drive or park garage will not move
@@MSRWorkshop Am I thinking backwards that 2wd LOCKS the rods instead of the other way around? My logical brain that can't visualize the mechanics of it thinks that sounds backwards.
Good afternoon! My 4HI and 4LO are flashing, along with ABS and Traction Control light on solid. Will this fix my issue? First fix I tried was replacing all 4 wheel speed sensors.
I would first try going to somewhere like AutoZone and they can plug in a diagnostic tester and see where the problem is also they can reset it. It’s free. Also is everything working or is it just a flashing problem
Do you by chance have a video on the top motor timing? (The one that shifts from 2 wheel to 4 wheel) I pulled it out and do not know how to put it back in correctly. Thank you in advance for any help.
@@MSRWorkshop Ok, so I have replaced the top motor, gears and housing with top half of a new unit. My question is, I have aligned the gears exactly as you have them in the picture at the end of the video. Did you then plug in the unit before reinstalling and cycle it before putting it back in, or did you put it back in just as is shown in the photo, then reconnected?
Nice job. Mine kinda went haywire the other day, saying it was in 4 wheel high but the knob was on 2 wheel high. I don't drive it much, so I'm hoping it was a fluke, Anyway, nice job, gives me a starting point if it fails again.
@@Bryan-sj8ys I would bet that it’s always going to be the top one because it has the vacuum line attached and it’s usually where water gets in. The bottom one is sealed from the first one. On mine the top was almost completely rusted out and the bottom was still pristine.
@@Bryan-sj8ys at a dealership they won’t replace the motors. They remove the housing with both motors as well as the actuator rods that go into the transfer case and replace the entire unit. The only way to get the actuator motor assemble out without doing what I have done is open the transfer case. The actuator rods are attached inside the transfer case so the only way to remove the assembly is open the whole thing up.
@@MSRWorkshop Ok. I think I'm gonna tackle this. So if I understand you correctly Toyota would probably take the whole console out and replace the entire unit with both motors. I just want to take the housing off the 4Hi, and harvest the new motor out of the new actuator I purchased,, swap motors, solder it,, and thwn put it back in? So when I remove the top (Hi) what do I need to do soas to not mess up the orientation of the gears?
Thanks for video! I was able to get high motor working again but having trouble on where to line up the sprockets to align with spine to activate push rod. Where did you line up the gears? do you have a picture or alignment tab?
Thank you! I started with that last night and didn’t work... will try again today! Confirming pushrod should be pushed in by hand prior to placing motor/gears back onto housing? Your videos was spot on by the way. Cheers!
Motor works spins free tested everything but when put back together it’s not engaging 4x there are no codes showing up to clear... even cleared it just to be sure...
Bought new one off rock auto took the new motors and installed them and it worked. Think the old rusted high side although I refurbed it wasn’t strong enough but new motor working cost was $500.... cheers bro!
Nick, I have the same problem. I don't know what the internal gear positions should be. I have a 2007 Tundra. My motor works... i took it out and tested independently. Put it back "together" but 4Hi is constantly blinking along with "VSC Off" indicator ON. I have a feeling the gears inside are not aligned... what was the setting when install the new one (assuming you turn on the truck in 2x vs 4Hi). The other thing i found out was that with the truck off, you can turn to 4Hi, then turn on the truck and it will engage but the side effect is that in order to get it back to 2x, you have to turn off the truck and switch the knob back to 2x and turn the truck on. Just found that out this weekend.
MrHastiin I had the same effect on my 07 Tundra. Here’s what I did: 1. Make sure key is off. 2. Connect actuator connectors but don’t install and make sure the actuator sensor is installed with everything in place except place the actuator tops (part with the motor and sensor) in a location where the sensor or gear isn’t going to fall out when actuated. There is a line to line up inside the actuator sensor with another part but that’s another story. 3. Turn your key on making sure your 4WD switch is in the “2WD” position. At that time the actuators will center themselves where they are supposed to be. 4.Turn key off and make sure both fork shaft gears are all the way forward (front of the truck). 5. Install actuator “hats” (parts with the electronics) cocked slightly to the front of the truck (you may have to move the gear position away from the 2WD resting position in order to properly mesh the drive gear with the fork shaft gear) and when meshed (only 1 tooth) rotate into position (this will allow proper spring tension holding the forks forward). 6. Final install the “hats” and connect the vent line (after making sure it’s not cracked). 7. Turn on key and you should hear the actuator load the spring tension. 8. Clear the codes even though it may not show errors (usually does). I use a wireless unit called “Foseal” with my iPhone 7plus with an app called “OBD Fusion” (yes, I paid for the app) and it allows me to clear the codes. 9. Turn key off and then back on and let the sensors work. You should be good to go or may have to remove and install a few times to get the mesh alignment and preload right (I did). My Hi/Low motor is too weak I think. I don’t have issues with my 4Hi anymore, only the 4Lo. The motor stalls out mid sensor almost every time.
I did this back in December and I'd add that in order to properly tension the rod so that R,D, and P work you need to install it at a slight angle then turn the assembly toward the t case before installing the screws so that you have tension pushing in on the rod 👌🏻
@@MSRWorkshop its spring loaded, the spring is pretty stiff but that's what keeps tension on the shift fork 👍🏻 I learned this the hard way after reassembly and no P,R, or D 😋
Ok, so I’m working through this repair and replaced the top one. Got the 4hi flashing light to go away. Now just the center diff lock light is flashing. Won’t engage 4wd high or low, just flashes center diff lock light. Tried resetting codes by unhooking the battery for 30mins and that didn’t work. I retimed the gears on the bottom side actuator and lost D/R/P. Took it off again and retimed again, pushed the rod all the way into the T-Case and got my gears back again. What am I missing? Clockwise or counterclockwise pre-load for the hat?
I finally got it timed and preloaded properly. Replaced the top actuator cover with a a new one from EBay and wham! All works properly and shifts in and out of 4wd hi/lo and center diff lock. When my top actuator wasn’t timed properly I had the center diff lock light ONLY flashing at me. No hi or lo flashing, just center diff lock. Watched the video again and tried one more time and SUCCESS! Thanks a million I owe y’all beers.
@@brandonjohnson3120 How did you get it "timed" and preloaded? I kinda understand the timing, but definitely not the "preload". How did you reinstall without the gear assembly falling out when it's upside down?
Great vid. Very informative. I had to remove my actuator housing to get it out of 4LO because it somehow got stuck. Ever since I couldn’t get the 4HI to stop flashing and the 4LO and VSC lights stay on all the time. I’ll try and realign it using your video. What I don’t understand is you said your housing seal was in perfect condition so you didn’t need to replace it. If so, how did water get into your housing and corrode your motor? I’d like to know to protect mine from doing the same. Sorry if this was asked and answered already. Truthfully I’m being lazy and don’t want to read all the comments to see if it was.Thanks
There is a hose that I believe is some sort of vacuum line that was cracked rotted and I think letting water in. I just trimmed off the damaged part and reattached it
just got quoted $3900 at Toyota $1900 for the Actuator which is $527 on rock auto for the complete unit. Does the gear set stay in place when you take the top end off for the 4Hi
There is only one large gear inside, so not a bunch of little stuff will fall out. It just pops right back in. It’s actually quite easy, getting the positioning correct might take a bit of fiddling but if you watch the end of the video I show some shots of roughly where the gear needs to be lined up .
OK, this has been a really good video, but I am having trouble with the reinstall. (2008 tundra) My truck got stuck in four wheel high and I took it apart, expecting the motor to be rusted or a terminal broken or the motor seized or something but seems to all function well. Tested all connections and everything looked good. We also hooked leads to the motor and ran it on 12 V and it was good as well. I got it into 2 Wheel Dr. by pushing the fork forward, but I still have the flashing lights on the dash and the four wheel high and low do not work. When I have the top section of the actuator off, but all the connectors plugged in, should the four wheel high function show me movement in park or neutral with the engine not running, but the accessory on? I have gotten it to “reset to 2 Wheel Dr.“ like another commentor suggested, but I am getting no movement when I switch to for high or for low. What gives? And what could have caused it to be stuck in the first place?
Will the car drive at all? And if it will are you able to have someone do a reset via the diagnostic port? Also are all the motor connection soldered strong. The occurrences where people climb under the car and hit it or it works sometimes and sometimes doesn’t means a bad electrical connection somewhere.
@@MSRWorkshop connections were good. Solder looked great, we even tested the connections with an ohm meter to make sure they were connected well. Should the actuator move when you put it into 4wd hi from 2wd - even if the 4 hi light is blinking on the cluster? Or do these codes have to be cleared before the actuator will try and operate? We can get the actuator to do the reset to 2wd when you first turn the key on but that’s it? I tried to get the codes cleared at an OReiley auto store and when the guy cleared them the still wouldn’t clear off the cluster after we restarted the truck 🤷🏼♂️
Not sure, the difference in the hi, and low side is the upper motor has that vacuum line where it can rot and get water inside. the low side can only brake is for some reason the contacts on the motor come loose. Rust and water can’t really leak inside that unless the gasket was somehow damaged. Might be worth opening up just to check and see if that side is working.
HELP!!! Can anyone provide me with some guidance on what the problem is with my 3rd gen 4runner 4wd? When I shift into 4wd it engages very smooth but when it disengages it hesitates for about 10 secs and disengages with a loud bang (feels like something hitting the car). I shift in and out 4wd while moving below 10 mph. I have replaced all the oil already and have no idea about previous 4wd usage. Thank for any feedback you can provide on this problem.
I have a 2007 tundra and did exactly what you said but unfortunately, my hi drive moter is clean but must be burt out. Do you know where to get a replacement Actuator?
@@MarkGrice67 sorry I do not but I think 2007 and all are the new body style so they should be the same for quite a number of years. Not sure if they have anything different in the 2021 models, 2022 might be different because they changed everything
Needing help. AutoZone won’t “reset” the system for me. It flashes constantly after starting. No change in switch position if in 2, 4 hi or 4 low. This should be a recall...
I am really stuck now. She’s stuck in neutral no matter the gear or 4WD position. I took it around the block and tried out the 4WD. Didn’t work at first then it worked. Came to a stop and put it in neutral to put in low and got a check engine light and al kinds of other lights. I’m stuck now. I’m going to remove the upper again and make sure it’s in the right position.
My Something Random yes, kinda. Turned the key on and off several times making sure the 4WD knob was in the 2h position before turning off and on again. It eventually cleared and went to 2h. I can put it in 4 hi but not 4 low still. I believe the motors are worn beyond economical repair at this time.
Thanks for this video!!! But im having some difficulty getting the timing down on both hi and low. In your video you speak mainly about the low side. What is the timing for the hi? Currently my whole 4wd system is screwed up!!! Any help is appreciated… thanks in advance!!
Possibly a fuse ? Get the error codes reset by an automotive store then try to engage it. It won’t engage if there is an error code, even if it’s fixed.
The 4 high was not engaging. I bought a new actuator and swapped over both high and low motors. When i opened up the old actuator the high side was full of water and mud.
Glad that you got it working. Did you just leave the rod as it is and put the actuator back in same position? I am having the similar problem. Its not going into 4Hi when requested. 4Hi keeps blinking initially slow and then frequency increases as it is not able to engage
Yes, leave the rods in place. I bought the whole actuator assembly and replaced both servo motors. Mine was full of mud and water. Use this video when you're setting the timing of the servo gears, he shows the correct position.
It seems to me it would be pretty easy for the right kind of guy to engineer a housing that bolts right up that could delete the motor and convert the t-case to manual operation... I sure wish somebody would create such a thing because I would buy it in an instant. My actuators work, but it is such a pain waiting for them to do their thing, especially if the truck is on any sort of grade at all...
If this works on mine I'll buy you dinner somewhere, been looking for someone to do something on the 2008 for several years. You need to post this on the Tundra forums. If you have to replace this motor where would you buy it?
@@MSRWorkshop Ten four thanks for the info we need to spread. Its the second issue I've had with my Tundra the first was the smog pumps but they had to warranty those,
Couple things. If you don't time the gear properly the spring tension might not be correct in both positions. You could end up with too much tension on one end and nothing on the other. Also, the electrical connections are microwelded, not soldered, as the soldered connections probably won't hold up to the vibrations.
@@MSRWorkshop yes they do fail. Just saying the factory doesn't solder them for a reason. Toyota and Aisin have a reason for everything. A person could fabricate a simple micro spot welder or buy one or just try the solder. Also if one was to attempt to solder the joints on the microswitch they will likely distort and ruin the switch. But the most important issue is the gear timing. The actuator puts spring pressure against the rod at the end of both positions. By guessing at the location you're taking a chance at overloading the motor, winding or other parts. And also possibly not getting any spring pressure at all which could cause the rod to move out of position during operation.
@@JH-tf2yn Are their shops that can make this repair to the small motors on the actuators correctly or is it just a deal where you diy it or take to the dealer to donate thousands.
If you have to replace motor is bad would you just take the whole piece with motor on it and replace the whole piece or just take the motor out of new one and put it in the old one
I would replace the unit if you have it available to you. Removing just the motor requires some soldering. If the replacement unit comes all together and works I would just use it like that.
@@MSRWorkshop I could not find just the motor nowhere so I had to buy the whole actuator with hi and low motor I believe the hi motor is the only problem when I checked it the low side worked but the hi side did not and it would not lock in 4 wheel drive at all I replaced the dash switch and the front actuator did not fix it then I found the transfer case hi motor was bad so I had to buy the whole actuator just to get that motor even though the low side works should I go ahead and replace it since I have the new gears and motors for both sides
Just ordered a Mabuchi RS-555PC-3550 off of eBay. I'll report back if this works. BTW, I found this recommendation in a thread on IH8MUD forum for a Lexus or Landcruiser...
2009 tundra I broke the rear shaft yoke flange. After that happened the 4lo light started flashing. I fixed the drive shaft and well I have no the 4lo or 4hi and the light is flashing. Anybody ever have this happen when they break the drive shaft or break a u joint?
So I just put my truck into 4hi and 4lo today to move the fluids inside of the transfer case but I was in my driveway and I stopped and was currently in 4hi But then I put it in to 4lo And it's all of a sudden I am getting a check engine light and My whole dash screen lights are on such as 4hi, 4lo, traction control off on my multimedia display, can't even drive the truck, I put it in D, N, R, S1 to S6 and no luck, my truck is stuck and cannot move at all. So right now my truck is in the driveway as a lawn ornament and it's not able to move at all. So what could be the cause of this? So I have to borrow my dad's Camry the time being and I'm afraid I'm going to put down thousands of dollars to get this fixed. I'm scared that it's going to cost me lots of money and that's my only vehicle that I own and I do not want to put a lot of money to get this fixed but I wanted to get it moving again but I can't because of the idiot lights. I do have a $300 Inova scan tool And I did erase the codes but it just keeps coming back on again and so it repeated the process and it's just keep coming back on again so I don't know what's making my truck not to delete the DTC's, And yes I did also remove the negative and positive terminal on my battery but still no luck. It's telling me that it needs to replace the wheel sensors but I know that's not an issue because the truck drives fine It only happened and gave me this issue when I put it into 4lo. When I put it into 4hi It was fine but as soon as I put it into 4lo It screwed up my truck and now my truck is not drivable. Before all this happened I did took my truck for a test drive and it was working perfectly fine but now it's not. So what can be because of this exactly?
Very good information. My 2008 was in 2wd and wouldn’t go into 4H/L when I pulled the top (4wd) motor and the motor was just fine. I must not have it clocked right because now the 4H warning flashes all the time and doesn’t go into 2wd anymore. I should have run a diagnostic to identify the root cause before I did it. Does anyone know the clock position for the upper (4wd) motor? One picture would be worth a thousand words. Update: the still picture at the end of the video show the upper clock position is the point of the switch aligned to the #2 stamped on the rotating gear. I was successful in getting my 2wd back.
I tried this on my 2011, no luck, I’ve been dealing with this issue for 3yrs now. I finally had enough and paid Toyota to put a new actuator on which didn’t solve the problem, I also changed front/rear diff fluid, Tcase fluid (obviously with with the Actuator replacement) and the ADD actuator.. no luck. Still in the same boat. Dealership confirmed I have power going to both actuators. But it’s not engaging it 4hi or 4lo. (I also changed out the 4x4 control module under the glove box) and all fuses are good. The only think i haven’t changed the the 4hi/lo knob on the dash. But here I am with a 4x4 2011 tundra with no 4x4 function and it’s rather irritating. Any insight would help because I’m out of options. Ps: this happened right after the cam tower leak repair that I had done in 2019
Need motor identification. I could take them apart and count the winds and wire size, measure the can size and gears. Then order hobby grade motors. They can handle the abuse.
Just fixed mine! Thanks a lot!!
Easiest way to clock it, is to match the rust marks on the shaft gears with the rust on the tooth of the gear from the actuator.
I installed it using that method, added the larger cog as it will only fit the smaller cog one way. Rotated the gears as to loosen the shaft up. Mine was seized from lack of use, rotating the gears to pull that shaft back and forth while the truck was in neutral.
So the small cog matched the rust spots, large cog on top, then install the cover last.
Make sure to return the shaft to the 2wd position before all this.
Also I disconnected the positive battery terminal to avoid lights on the dash, which worked.
Also my motor was extremely rusted, can’t believe I freed it up.
Didn’t solder the connections just reversed sides of the post so they are under tension when I reinstalled the motor. Works for now, will solder later.
I did this process for both actuators, I have both 4 hi and lo now.
Great to hear !!
Lower motor was good. Upper motor was rust3d and seized. Removed upper motor and flushed with WD40 via small holes in the motor. Tapped on motor with a wrench and the motor shaft broke free. Flushed with more WD40 and turned motor till the crunching stopped and all rust was removed. 4wd works great now! Daved some $. Thank You for the video.
Glad to hear it worked. Not sure why that little line is even there, but it seems to be the source of this problem for everybody.
Did you flush this through the vent while on the truck?
I was thinking about that as well. @@KingMathias1337
You seem to have a mechanical mind. For someone who has "little automotive" experiences, you excel. Love to see that you are also fearless in everything I've seen you do. Love this channel! Thank you buddy.
Very kind words 🙏 thank you. I guess my only Achilles’ heel is I can’t leave anything alone lol I always look for ways to make something better or improve it. And sometimes that gets expensive. Haha
Thanks for the well detailed explanation. My 2008 tundra is in the shop now, they state it's the actuator and want $1500 to replace. After watching your video, I can't see why I can't just buy the whole part and replace the high and low side motor, erase codes and be good to go. Saving me over a thousand dollars.
We’re you successful in changing your motors ? I’m having hard time getting the timing right .
yes parts changers not real mechanics 2 fold issues with that most people do not fix junk or rebuild things so at times your best fixer is the off road guys race car hobbiest you now the guy with good junk in his yard/or shop out skirts of town lol. that little Dc motor in that box looks like a standard drill or RC truck truggy SCT 1/10 scale universal motor i think its a 540 size like 10 bucks old 18 volt /12volt drills size type
I have a 2008 Tundra that had a similar problem. I couldn't get into 4 HI. At first it was intermittent, then it just wouldn't go into 4-Hi. Took it to the shop and it was a rusted out, non-functioning actuator. $750 to replace. I was on the road going to Maine this winter, having stopped at my son's place in Hartford, so not many options. After watching this, I probably could have done it myself.
Thanks! This video and the comments, saved me $2500 as well. I did figure out a trick to get the spring tension to push in on the rod. Once you've timed the gear, offset it maybe 1/4-1/2 inch so that when the system repositions the gear to the default 2wd position it applies inward pressure on the rod.
Glad to know this has helped so many people!
You can remove the actuator while leaving the two shift rods in the transfer case. If you remove both motors, the house will come out without the shift rods. The shift rods don't go bad so they don't need to be replaced. Saving your thousands in labor cost and time.
I know Im randomly asking but does any of you know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Ridge Camden instablaster =)
@Esteban Boden I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Esteban Boden It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Ridge Camden happy to help =)
This is a great video, just saved me $2500 min, dealer would forsure change put entire unit, which i dont understand why, if anything just change motors, thanks again !!
I saw another video and they simply changed that little motor in there! This video was so helpful! Hopefully I can replicate your success!!
Where did they get the motor?
They had to buy a whole new one and only used the motor for a quicker fix
@@happyhusker1163I can replace the motor in it with a brand new one if you want.
Lost 4wd in my 2008. I could hear the actuator motor operating but 4wd would not engage and the 4wd light would just flash. My issue was a cracked vacuum line as you mentioned. Simply cut off the cracked portion and reattached. Good to go! There is a bit of slack in the line to do some trimming fortunately. Thanks for the great video!
So your 4wd would not engage because the cracked end of vacuum hose? You cut it and your 4wd started working again?? Hard to believe. I just took off my 4Hi actuator and freed up the gear it was all jammed. I put it back together, timed up the gear and fastened. Now the 4Hi light just flashes when I turn to 4wd. Maybe I need to cut hose now? I hear noises but doesn't engage. At least the 4Hi light doesn't flash in 2wd now
Like argy, where my vacuum hose slipped onto the nipple it was cracked and dry rotted, I “cut” a very small piece of the end off that was cracked and slipped the fresh cut hose onto the nipple. Now there was a perfect seal for the vacuum to activate the actuator.
There is some extra slack in the hose but not much, cut off as little as possible to make sure it will still reach the nipple.
That is definitely a very clean underbelly. Kudos on that! Wish my 2007 was that clean but the wife has the garage for her car.
good video. one motor is for 4x2/4x4, the other is for Hi/Lo. from what i see, it would be possible to convert this to a mechanical system, with for each function a separate lever, the perfect setup!
I noticed that you really don’t have to “re-time" the gear. Just leave the gear up in the housing and make sure it’s turned all the way towards the direction of the transfer case, then pop the cover on, works great. It was way easier than I expected. Also, I found that there was no reason to take anything off other than the cover, as my issue was that the motor itself had burned up
I have fixed a couple of them by tapping the housing with a screwdriver handle
Sometimes the motors get stuck due to no or rare actuation so a couple whacks will get the job done
Good job 👏
Thats why you want to engage both 4 hi and 4 lo once a month or so.It prevents a lot of these issues.
Malletize....I remember that being the 1st action on all trouble shooting flow charts.....learned that on the farm in Eastern Montana... 😂
Dude I been tryna figure out what it was and found this video and went outside out my car in neutral then did what you said and my 4-Lo light vanished and I could drive the car again thanks a bunch bro 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video. Have a 08 Sequoia but the transfer case is the same as this. Really saved me a lot of money.
Thanks for your help. Rusted 4hi actuator motor, worked on it a bit and broke it loose. 4hi works great! No transmission shops in town would touch. All of them referred me to the local Toyota dealer. Their estimate was $3,800, ouch.
Yikes!
Me 2
Correction on actuator references. The top actuator is the 4WD actuator. Lower is the hi/lo actuator. Yes, you have the front axle ADD actuator too which is a part of the 4WD actuation process to fully decouple the front driveshart. Thank you for putting the great video together otherwise!!
pteck thanks!
Yes I took the bottom one off only for ease of demonstration. The top is the 4wD. I’m not a mechanic but I made it work
Please help. My 4lo flases but 4hi works. Which actuator should I inspect? Lower or top one ?
The bottom motor
@@MSRWorkshop thanks. I tapped it with screwdriver and 4lo worked. Thanks
Very helpful video thank you very much. would you have any idea where I can purchase the motor for the actuator alone?
Where did you buy the motor?
HUGE help, thanks! Pulled the bottom off first (Hi/Lo) and jumped the motor. Worked great. Pulled the top (4wd on/off) and sure enough, dead motor. Reassembled so I can drive it but I'd like to replace the motor. Anyone have a resource and part number?
Did you ever find a source for just the motor and not the whole actuator?
No I have never looked
If you have find a motor, please let us know too
Great job with the video- because of your video we did attempt it and it worked.
Can i ask what you did?
it's a transfer case, not a differential or a center differential. the word differential has a very specific meaning.
the limit switch on mine is bad. do you know where to buy the limit switch?
Gracias por compartir es de mucha ayuda
Ya lo repare una vez y creo que tengo que hacerlo de nuevo
Does anyone know where I can buy the actuator motor needed for 4HI?
Take apart differential or you mean transfer case?
Can you order the actuator motor itself
When you pull the cover that houses the gears and motor will the gears fall out? Or are they secured?
The electrical harness next to the air hose, what do you figure that's for? The differential lock sensor?
A little confused my 08 tundra has 2 actuator's 1on the front axle and 1 on the transfer case.
Thanks man, now I know why my 4 low does not work!!
I'm looking at this method to access the o ring that seals the actuator to the transfer case. What I'm worried about is when I pull the gear plate off the actuator, does it all stay intact so that it syncs up when I put it back on, or is there a risk of the gears and stuff falling off when I take it off the actuator?
The gears come out. You can slide a knife in between to hold it in place before it’s fully pulled apart
I have a 2008 Toyota Tundra with 60,000 miles on it, but it is not nearly as clean. How do you do it?
Great video. What is the part number?
Super helpful thanks! 4hi in my sequoia is slow up activate, basically have to be moving, tap the gas a few times and it will engage within 5-10 seconds. If I disengage and reengage it will do it much quicker the second time. So not sure if it's more of a vacuum issue or the motor. I'm curious though. Everything appears to be electronic, so what's the point of the vacuum line then?
Actualy, just realized it's a breather tube, not a vacuum line. So it is purely electric.
Most likely culprit to the sluggishness is that your motor has corrosion in it and it’s having difficulty turning.
Which actuator operates the shift diff this one or the front one?
Thank you for the education.
Had issues with the door actuator, as well. STEALERSHIP wanted $250 plus labor...NO WAY!
Do your research...I bought just the motor for $3 on line.
STEALERSHIPs hate this !!
Thanks for sharing....
Got a link for that motor?
@@mikewest712 Go on Amazon..and type in..door motor actuator for your SUV.
It also..tells you if it works on your vehicle.
So I broke my micro switch that engages when metal arm hits it. What’s the part number for this? I don’t want to have to get a whole new actuator motor.
Yikes, I have no idea unless it’s somehow visible in the video. I don’t know if it’s possible to buy just that.
@@MSRWorkshop yes. At 7:43 time marker you touch it. That’s the part that I broke. Maybe I can purchase the entire 4hi side of the actuator?
Awesome video. Can someone clarify on how to verify or adjust the rods to make sure they are in the correct position? What setting do you put the truck in first before doing the repair? 2/4hi/4lo? If the rod is out of position, how do you correct it? Thanks in advance?
So if the car is in 2wD when you do the fix you won’t need to mess with the rods because they are locked in. If your car is stuck in 4WD, putting your car in neutral is the only away to adjust the rods and move them. If your car is locked and drive or park garage will not move
@@MSRWorkshop Am I thinking backwards that 2wd LOCKS the rods instead of the other way around? My logical brain that can't visualize the mechanics of it thinks that sounds backwards.
One motor part number is RS-455PB-3050.
I am having issues with 4lo engaging on 2008 land cruiser. and dash is lit up. would this be the same actuator on the cruiser? very nice video.
Good afternoon! My 4HI and 4LO are flashing, along with ABS and Traction Control light on solid. Will this fix my issue? First fix I tried was replacing all 4 wheel speed sensors.
I would first try going to somewhere like AutoZone and they can plug in a diagnostic tester and see where the problem is also they can reset it. It’s free. Also is everything working or is it just a flashing problem
@@MSRWorkshop Thank you for the quick response! I have a code reader, however no codes are registering.
@@MSRWorkshop Also I forgot to mention my tundra is a 2014. Sorry about not mentioning before.
@@danielretz01 I would first try to do a reset to see if clearing the air code allows everything to work
Do you by chance have a video on the top motor timing? (The one that shifts from 2 wheel to 4 wheel) I pulled it out and do not know how to put it back in correctly. Thank you in advance for any help.
Don’t have a video but at the very end I posted some pictures of the top motor and if you pause the video it shows the timing
@@MSRWorkshop Ok, so I have replaced the top motor, gears and housing with top half of a new unit. My question is, I have aligned the gears exactly as you have them in the picture at the end of the video. Did you then plug in the unit before reinstalling and cycle it before putting it back in, or did you put it back in just as is shown in the photo, then reconnected?
@@islandj39 just plugged it back in. As soon as you turn the key on it cycles it automatically
This video shows the proper timing for the similar Sequoia actuator motor. th-cam.com/video/hpf2wFBBXg0/w-d-xo.html
I have 1 2026 Toyota tundra 4hi and 4lo are blinking. is it the same procedure how to trouble shoot/ fix it? I have to 4wd . TIA
I loosens the 3 bolts holding the actuator housing about 1/4” and bolted it back on and 4 wheel works again!
Nice job. Mine kinda went haywire the other day, saying it was in 4 wheel high but the knob was on 2 wheel high. I don't drive it much, so I'm hoping it was a fluke, Anyway, nice job, gives me a starting point if it fails again.
My 4 HI motor is not working. Has anyone found a place to order just the RS-455 motor? All I can find is a RS-770 or 550 motor.
Donald.. what did u do to solve.motor issue?? Did the 550 work??? Mine is fried
Donald, did u use the 550 motor?? Will it be suitable... I have same issue... no one e can seem to match the RS455 MOTOR.. thx for your help
No. I got lucky and found a used housing with a good motor from a junk yard. The whole thing cost me $150.00. Knock on wood it is still working.
This is the rear actuator unit that runs off the transfer case right? And not the one off the front differential? Thanks
Yes
@@MSRWorkshop How would you know which actuator is the culprit? My 2007 tundra is doing the exact same thing as yours did.
@@Bryan-sj8ys I would bet that it’s always going to be the top one because it has the vacuum line attached and it’s usually where water gets in. The bottom one is sealed from the first one. On mine the top was almost completely rusted out and the bottom was still pristine.
@@Bryan-sj8ys at a dealership they won’t replace the motors. They remove the housing with both motors as well as the actuator rods that go into the transfer case and replace the entire unit. The only way to get the actuator motor assemble out without doing what I have done is open the transfer case. The actuator rods are attached inside the transfer case so the only way to remove the assembly is open the whole thing up.
@@MSRWorkshop Ok. I think I'm gonna tackle this. So if I understand you correctly Toyota would probably take the whole console out and replace the entire unit with both motors. I just want to take the housing off the 4Hi, and harvest the new motor out of the new actuator I purchased,, swap motors, solder it,, and thwn put it back in? So when I remove the top (Hi) what do I need to do soas to not mess up the orientation of the gears?
Is this the same part that is on the 2007 tundra 5.7 4x4?
NCOX3649 yes, the 4WD Transfer Case Actuator.
Thanks for video! I was able to get high motor working again but having trouble on where to line up the sprockets to align with spine to activate push rod. Where did you line up the gears? do you have a picture or alignment tab?
Thank you! I started with that last night and didn’t work... will try again today! Confirming pushrod should be pushed in by hand prior to placing motor/gears back onto housing? Your videos was spot on by the way. Cheers!
Motor works spins free tested everything but when put back together it’s not engaging 4x there are no codes showing up to clear... even cleared it just to be sure...
Bought new one off rock auto took the new motors and installed them and it worked. Think the old rusted high side although I refurbed it wasn’t strong enough but new motor working cost was $500.... cheers bro!
Nick, I have the same problem. I don't know what the internal gear positions should be. I have a 2007 Tundra. My motor works... i took it out and tested independently. Put it back "together" but 4Hi is constantly blinking along with "VSC Off" indicator ON. I have a feeling the gears inside are not aligned... what was the setting when install the new one (assuming you turn on the truck in 2x vs 4Hi). The other thing i found out was that with the truck off, you can turn to 4Hi, then turn on the truck and it will engage but the side effect is that in order to get it back to 2x, you have to turn off the truck and switch the knob back to 2x and turn the truck on. Just found that out this weekend.
MrHastiin I had the same effect on my 07 Tundra. Here’s what I did:
1. Make sure key is off.
2. Connect actuator connectors but don’t install and make sure the actuator sensor is installed with everything in place except place the actuator tops (part with the motor and sensor) in a location where the sensor or gear isn’t going to fall out when actuated. There is a line to line up inside the actuator sensor with another part but that’s another story.
3. Turn your key on making sure your 4WD switch is in the “2WD” position. At that time the actuators will center themselves where they are supposed to be.
4.Turn key off and make sure both fork shaft gears are all the way forward (front of the truck).
5. Install actuator “hats” (parts with the electronics) cocked slightly to the front of the truck (you may have to move the gear position away from the 2WD resting position in order to properly mesh the drive gear with the fork shaft gear) and when meshed (only 1 tooth) rotate into position (this will allow proper spring tension holding the forks forward).
6. Final install the “hats” and connect the vent line (after making sure it’s not cracked).
7. Turn on key and you should hear the actuator load the spring tension.
8. Clear the codes even though it may not show errors (usually does). I use a wireless unit called “Foseal” with my iPhone 7plus with an app called “OBD Fusion” (yes, I paid for the app) and it allows me to clear the codes.
9. Turn key off and then back on and let the sensors work. You should be good to go or may have to remove and install a few times to get the mesh alignment and preload right (I did).
My Hi/Low motor is too weak I think. I don’t have issues with my 4Hi anymore, only the 4Lo. The motor stalls out mid sensor almost every time.
I did this back in December and I'd add that in order to properly tension the rod so that R,D, and P work you need to install it at a slight angle then turn the assembly toward the t case before installing the screws so that you have tension pushing in on the rod 👌🏻
@@MSRWorkshop its spring loaded, the spring is pretty stiff but that's what keeps tension on the shift fork 👍🏻 I learned this the hard way after reassembly and no P,R, or D 😋
Ok, so I’m working through this repair and replaced the top one. Got the 4hi flashing light to go away. Now just the center diff lock light is flashing. Won’t engage 4wd high or low, just flashes center diff lock light. Tried resetting codes by unhooking the battery for 30mins and that didn’t work. I retimed the gears on the bottom side actuator and lost D/R/P. Took it off again and retimed again, pushed the rod all the way into the T-Case and got my gears back again. What am I missing? Clockwise or counterclockwise pre-load for the hat?
@@brandonjohnson3120 i did it to where you have to turn the actuator cover toward the tcase to be able to start the screws in their holes
I finally got it timed and preloaded properly. Replaced the top actuator cover with a a new one from EBay and wham! All works properly and shifts in and out of 4wd hi/lo and center diff lock. When my top actuator wasn’t timed properly I had the center diff lock light ONLY flashing at me. No hi or lo flashing, just center diff lock. Watched the video again and tried one more time and SUCCESS! Thanks a million I owe y’all beers.
@@brandonjohnson3120 How did you get it "timed" and preloaded? I kinda understand the timing, but definitely not the "preload". How did you reinstall without the gear assembly falling out when it's upside down?
Great vid. Very informative. I had to remove my actuator housing to get it out of 4LO because it somehow got stuck. Ever since I couldn’t get the 4HI to stop flashing and the 4LO and VSC lights stay on all the time. I’ll try and realign it using your video. What I don’t understand is you said your housing seal was in perfect condition so you didn’t need to replace it. If so, how did water get into your housing and corrode your motor? I’d like to know to protect mine from doing the same. Sorry if this was asked and answered already. Truthfully I’m being lazy and don’t want to read all the comments to see if it was.Thanks
There is a hose that I believe is some sort of vacuum line that was cracked rotted and I think letting water in. I just trimmed off the damaged part and reattached it
just got quoted $3900 at Toyota $1900 for the Actuator which is $527 on rock auto for the complete unit. Does the gear set stay in place when you take the top end off for the 4Hi
Yikes, no it doesn’t stay in place but in my video I show if you pause it where it goes back and it’s not hard
There is only one large gear inside, so not a bunch of little stuff will fall out. It just pops right back in. It’s actually quite easy, getting the positioning correct might take a bit of fiddling but if you watch the end of the video I show some shots of roughly where the gear needs to be lined up .
Hi my dear I have land cruiser 2009 4lo light blinking can you help me I chinched the 42d motor but I can't solve my problem
Thank you so much for the informative video! Excellent work!
Mine blinking 4Hi. Thanks for for sharing. Great info.
Glad it helped
OK, this has been a really good video, but I am having trouble with the reinstall. (2008 tundra) My truck got stuck in four wheel high and I took it apart, expecting the motor to be rusted or a terminal broken or the motor seized or something but seems to all function well. Tested all connections and everything looked good. We also hooked leads to the motor and ran it on 12 V and it was good as well. I got it into 2 Wheel Dr. by pushing the fork forward, but I still have the flashing lights on the dash and the four wheel high and low do not work. When I have the top section of the actuator off, but all the connectors plugged in, should the four wheel high function show me movement in park or neutral with the engine not running, but the accessory on? I have gotten it to “reset to 2 Wheel Dr.“ like another commentor suggested, but I am getting no movement when I switch to for high or for low. What gives? And what could have caused it to be stuck in the first place?
Will the car drive at all? And if it will are you able to have someone do a reset via the diagnostic port?
Also are all the motor connection soldered strong. The occurrences where people climb under the car and hit it or it works sometimes and sometimes doesn’t means a bad electrical connection somewhere.
@@MSRWorkshop connections were good. Solder looked great, we even tested the connections with an ohm meter to make sure they were connected well. Should the actuator move when you put it into 4wd hi from 2wd - even if the 4 hi light is blinking on the cluster? Or do these codes have to be cleared before the actuator will try and operate? We can get the actuator to do the reset to 2wd when you first turn the key on but that’s it?
I tried to get the codes cleared at an OReiley auto store and when the guy cleared them the still wouldn’t clear off the cluster after we restarted the truck 🤷🏼♂️
Having the same problem with my tundra. Tried everything You did. Still trying to find a solution.
Any idea if this is the same in 2016 Tundras as well.
Yes it should be
4 Lo yellow light flashing with a beeper going timed with the light. Fuse? Or maybe the hi/lol actuator motor is having issues? 4 hi works fine...
Same problem here. I got the motor to work on the upper side but now when I shift to 4x4 low it yells at me with a beeping and lo flashing
Not sure, the difference in the hi, and low side is the upper motor has that vacuum line where it can rot and get water inside. the low side can only brake is for some reason the contacts on the motor come loose. Rust and water can’t really leak inside that unless the gasket was somehow damaged. Might be worth opening up just to check and see if that side is working.
HELP!!! Can anyone provide me with some guidance on what the problem is with my 3rd gen 4runner 4wd? When I shift into 4wd it engages very smooth but when it disengages it hesitates for about 10 secs and disengages with a loud bang (feels like something hitting the car). I shift in and out 4wd while moving below 10 mph. I have replaced all the oil already and have no idea about previous 4wd usage. Thank for any feedback you can provide on this problem.
I have a 2007 tundra and did exactly what you said but unfortunately, my hi drive moter is clean but must be burt out. Do you know where to get a replacement Actuator?
eBay has them, or a pull apart yard
I really appreciate your video but do you know the part number?
@@MarkGrice67 sorry I do not but I think 2007 and all are the new body style so they should be the same for quite a number of years. Not sure if they have anything different in the 2021 models, 2022 might be different because they changed everything
Я разобрал , а метки не сделал ни какие . Подскажите , как правильно поставить его на место , чтоб всё работало ?
Needing help. AutoZone won’t “reset” the system for me. It flashes constantly after starting. No change in switch position if in 2, 4 hi or 4 low. This should be a recall...
I am really stuck now. She’s stuck in neutral no matter the gear or 4WD position. I took it around the block and tried out the 4WD. Didn’t work at first then it worked. Came to a stop and put it in neutral to put in low and got a check engine light and al kinds of other lights. I’m stuck now. I’m going to remove the upper again and make sure it’s in the right position.
Did you end up fixing it ?
Did you end up fixing it ?
My Something Random yes, kinda. Turned the key on and off several times making sure the 4WD knob was in the 2h position before turning off and on again. It eventually cleared and went to 2h. I can put it in 4 hi but not 4 low still. I believe the motors are worn beyond economical repair at this time.
My Something Random, I’d love to know. 😃
Thanks for this video!!! But im having some difficulty getting the timing down on both hi and low. In your video you speak mainly about the low side. What is the timing for the hi? Currently my whole 4wd system is screwed up!!! Any help is appreciated… thanks in advance!!
The high side you can see where I set the timing at the end if you pause the still pictures.
@@MSRWorkshop that the lower side motor correct? Which is the one that controls hi/lo correct?
@@James-th8rx I believe so.
@@MSRWorkshop Now on the top motor, when the rod is all the way out its in 2wd correct?
Need timing for the top motor
I need to 4x4 hi diagram we’re it needs to be set at I don’t think that’s the same for the 4 hi
I checked on the 4H and 4L and they was clean same as in the video, but I have a 4Lo sign beeping in my dash what does it mean.?
Possibly a fuse ?
Get the error codes reset by an automotive store then try to engage it. It won’t engage if there is an error code, even if it’s fixed.
What if I don't have an oriley next to me... My LC200 doesn't engage 4 lo
On the 4 high side does the rod also need to be push all the way in when you reassemble?
Got it working, thank you for your help and video.
The 4 high was not engaging. I bought a new actuator and swapped over both high and low motors. When i opened up the old actuator the high side was full of water and mud.
Glad that you got it working. Did you just leave the rod as it is and put the actuator back in same position? I am having the similar problem. Its not going into 4Hi when requested. 4Hi keeps blinking initially slow and then frequency increases as it is not able to engage
@@MSRWorkshop thanks for info. I will try it this weekend most probably.
Yes, leave the rods in place. I bought the whole actuator assembly and replaced both servo motors. Mine was full of mud and water. Use this video when you're setting the timing of the servo gears, he shows the correct position.
Great video!! Helped me out and saved me thousands!! Much appreciated!! 👍🏻
It seems to me it would be pretty easy for the right kind of guy to engineer a housing that bolts right up that could delete the motor and convert the t-case to manual operation... I sure wish somebody would create such a thing because I would buy it in an instant. My actuators work, but it is such a pain waiting for them to do their thing, especially if the truck is on any sort of grade at all...
If this works on mine I'll buy you dinner somewhere, been looking for someone to do something on the 2008 for several years. You need to post this on the Tundra forums. If you have to replace this motor where would you buy it?
@@MSRWorkshop Ten four thanks for the info we need to spread. Its the second issue I've had with my Tundra the first was the smog pumps but they had to warranty those,
Couple things. If you don't time the gear properly the spring tension might not be correct in both positions. You could end up with too much tension on one end and nothing on the other.
Also, the electrical connections are microwelded, not soldered, as the soldered connections probably won't hold up to the vibrations.
@@MSRWorkshop yes they do fail. Just saying the factory doesn't solder them for a reason. Toyota and Aisin have a reason for everything. A person could fabricate a simple micro spot welder or buy one or just try the solder. Also if one was to attempt to solder the joints on the microswitch they will likely distort and ruin the switch.
But the most important issue is the gear timing. The actuator puts spring pressure against the rod at the end of both positions. By guessing at the location you're taking a chance at overloading the motor, winding or other parts. And also possibly not getting any spring pressure at all which could cause the rod to move out of position during operation.
@@MSRWorkshop it's just a vent line. No vacuum. Edit: earlier Toyota trucks did use vacuum activation but not gen 2 Tundras and later AFAIK
@@JH-tf2yn Are their shops that can make this repair to the small motors on the actuators correctly or is it just a deal where you diy it or take to the dealer to donate thousands.
If you have to replace motor is bad would you just take the whole piece with motor on it and replace the whole piece or just take the motor out of new one and put it in the old one
I would replace the unit if you have it available to you. Removing just the motor requires some soldering. If the replacement unit comes all together and works I would just use it like that.
@@MSRWorkshop I could not find just the motor nowhere so I had to buy the whole actuator with hi and low motor I believe the hi motor is the only problem when I checked it the low side worked but the hi side did not and it would not lock in 4 wheel drive at all I replaced the dash switch and the front actuator did not fix it then I found the transfer case hi motor was bad so I had to buy the whole actuator just to get that motor even though the low side works should I go ahead and replace it since I have the new gears and motors for both sides
Just ordered a Mabuchi RS-555PC-3550 off of eBay. I'll report back if this works. BTW, I found this recommendation in a thread on IH8MUD forum for a Lexus or Landcruiser...
Glad it has helped! Let me know how it’s going ! Thanks for the part number
Got an update on this
Will Botto still working
did this motor end up being tithe solution? worked properly? Mabuchi RS-555PC-3550
Great info. Thank you
You should disconnect the battery any time youre undoing connections. Might have been why it threw so many codes after
Just the positive?
Or both?
Just one
@@MSRWorkshop
Thanks
I will disconnect the positive
2009 tundra I broke the rear shaft yoke flange. After that happened the 4lo light started flashing. I fixed the drive shaft and well I have no the 4lo or 4hi and the light is flashing. Anybody ever have this happen when they break the drive shaft or break a u joint?
So I just put my truck into 4hi and 4lo today to move the fluids inside of the transfer case but I was in my driveway and I stopped and was currently in 4hi But then I put it in to 4lo And it's all of a sudden I am getting a check engine light and My whole dash screen lights are on such as 4hi, 4lo, traction control off on my multimedia display, can't even drive the truck, I put it in D, N, R, S1 to S6 and no luck, my truck is stuck and cannot move at all. So right now my truck is in the driveway as a lawn ornament and it's not able to move at all. So what could be the cause of this? So I have to borrow my dad's Camry the time being and I'm afraid I'm going to put down thousands of dollars to get this fixed. I'm scared that it's going to cost me lots of money and that's my only vehicle that I own and I do not want to put a lot of money to get this fixed but I wanted to get it moving again but I can't because of the idiot lights. I do have a $300 Inova scan tool And I did erase the codes but it just keeps coming back on again and so it repeated the process and it's just keep coming back on again so I don't know what's making my truck not to delete the DTC's, And yes I did also remove the negative and positive terminal on my battery but still no luck. It's telling me that it needs to replace the wheel sensors but I know that's not an issue because the truck drives fine It only happened and gave me this issue when I put it into 4lo. When I put it into 4hi It was fine but as soon as I put it into 4lo It screwed up my truck and now my truck is not drivable. Before all this happened I did took my truck for a test drive and it was working perfectly fine but now it's not. So what can be because of this exactly?
did you figure it out buddy ?
Very good information. My 2008 was in 2wd and wouldn’t go into 4H/L when I pulled the top (4wd) motor and the motor was just fine. I must not have it clocked right because now the 4H warning flashes all the time and doesn’t go into 2wd anymore. I should have run a diagnostic to identify the root cause before I did it. Does anyone know the clock position for the upper (4wd) motor? One picture would be worth a thousand words. Update: the still picture at the end of the video show the upper clock position is the point of the switch aligned to the #2 stamped on the rotating gear. I was successful in getting my 2wd back.
My husband also got 2wd back but we just can't get the rods to align
outstanding video
nice video thanks!
I tried this on my 2011, no luck, I’ve been dealing with this issue for 3yrs now. I finally had enough and paid Toyota to put a new actuator on which didn’t solve the problem, I also changed front/rear diff fluid, Tcase fluid (obviously with with the Actuator replacement) and the ADD actuator.. no luck. Still in the same boat. Dealership confirmed I have power going to both actuators. But it’s not engaging it 4hi or 4lo.
(I also changed out the 4x4 control module under the glove box) and all fuses are good. The only think i haven’t changed the the 4hi/lo knob on the dash.
But here I am with a 4x4 2011 tundra with no 4x4 function and it’s rather irritating. Any insight would help because I’m out of options.
Ps: this happened right after the cam tower leak repair that I had done in 2019
Thanks great video
If you replace one motor then the other one once you put the first one back together will the rods stay in
Yes
Thank you very much for your video i just fixed my truck
Glad to hear !
Anyone know the Correct Part Number for the 2008 ?
Unfortunately I don’t
Hmmm my vsc off light doesn’t come on when I shift into 4wd.... oooops
Thanks, that was useful
the one you have now is the 4 low . not the 4 hi look at it
Need motor identification. I could take them apart and count the winds and wire size, measure the can size and gears. Then order hobby grade motors. They can handle the abuse.
Budd, if you find the replacement motor please let me know.
Not a vacuum line sir. Just a vent tube.
Seems like more of a water Inlet lol
Transfer case is not the differential
Way too clean undercarriage
to be a Canadian truck
Can you just buy the motor
As far as I can tell no,
I failed on this my truck wouldn't go drive now mechanics want to put a new transfercase in so I'm there on this so disappointed
Where is Switch
good job
Man tell how install to vehicle any person knows how check moter
Thx guy.
That motor from China?
I have no idea. It’s Toyota so probably
❤
thanks