Thank you, Ard, I sure appreciate the kind words, I am having fun with my shop, it has been a lifetime dream to be able to work in the shop every day and was working to equip it before retirement that made it possible.
@@montana2strokeracer Praise where praise is due Dale ! Sounds like you got it done to a point and it looks like it too. My "shop/garage" is a lot smaller but it's my happy place for the stuff I do too. I should spend more time in there but it'll come this year I am sure ! Cheers, Ard
Great that you have the machinery & know-how to do this work yourself Dale, where I live it's difficult to get this machining done, many people simply buy a new cylinder/jug.
Hey Darren, I know what you mean. I didn't always do my own, I use to farm it out, but the quality got so poor, that I was forced to do it myself. The problem these days working with the older machines is that NOS and aftermarket cylinders are just not available for most of these. Pistons for some are hard to find also. The time is coming where you will have to get custom pistons made, that time is already here for all but the big three jap bikes. This is not something I have just noticed, I hear from viewers every day that tell me, they can't get cylinders bored and many motorcycle shops refuse to work on bikes that are over 10 years old, some may go 20 years old. Many general machine shops have closed or just don't understand the required clearances of air-cooled motorcycles. So simply put it is out of necessity that I now do my own machine work, but the good thing is it keeps my mind active, I enjoy it and it's just plain fun. Do I make mistakes...sure...you learn from it and move on. I watch a couple guys from Australia that are machinist, there must be some still doing work, but you might have to send it to them, not sure about your location or theirs.
@@montana2strokeracerI ran into a similar problem. No one wants to work on old bikes so I had to learn how to do it myself. I got lucky and found a local machine shop that likes side work. They usually do work for oil companies so they have all the tools …and experienced guys who know how to operate them. It’s not cheap but they can do some things I can’t in my shop. 👀interesting info on the custom pistons.
Really nice machine there Dale. It certainly takes patience and know-how to set it up I'm sure. It's quite satisfying to watch the cylinder bore get cleaned up and ready for the new piston.
super duper dale, you da man, i seen my little chopper sitting there on the table and it made me smile, good job as always, catch u on the next one, your friend in ky...
Thanks Murray, I'm sure there are folks that do much better work, but I try to pay attention to the details and get it done right. Thats how I want my own stuff done. But warning, I'm slow.
Good morning Dale, great job on the cylinder. I am getting a shopping list on all the parts I need for my projects, I need a ton of stuff... Looking forward to watching the build on the AT2.
Thanks Don and good morning to you also. These projects take a lot of parts and in my case take about a week to get them, for some reason I don't plan very well and my list making skills are substandard. I never seem to get all the parts needed for a single project and have to order several times. I tend to stock most of the most used parts to help me with that issue. But you never have them all.
Hey Johnnie, those things are all over the place, they used to be in every filling station shop across this country. I found mine with most of the mandrels, I have since picked up some more mandrels to accommodate my needs. I just this weekend saw one on Facebook marketplace here in Montana. I will tell you they are handy as a pocket on a shirt. I don't just use them for honing cylinders, lots of ID work you do on the lathe requires tight tolerances, so bore it close and hone to fit. Did it on swing arm bushing not too long ago.
Another great Video Dale: I would like to see an RM suspension conversion for a CT2 or 3, Maybe some longer travel YZ125 forks would make a good trail bike.
I have been working on plans for just a conversion. It will be a bit more work than the 250MX, for the rear swing arm mount is completely different. Front forks are easy, the 125 MX that I have now has DT250 forks and longer travel rear shocks, 13.5 inch, I think. But yeah the lay down shocks will be cool, I already have a couple RM swing arms. The 81 RM forks will adapt pretty easy I think, at least I already have a set.
Hey Rich, I never trust the coaxial indicator, I only use it to get close, then use the test indicator to fine adjust. Maybe a good US, German, or Swiss made coaxial indicator would be more reliable, but they are very expensive, mine is offshore made and it is always off one or two thousands.
A very nice execution Dale... Its rare, one gets to see to this detail. 👍 I was trying to understand the steps, so that we can guide our local machinist here to follow this procedure : 1. The first dial run was to check the level ( horizontal orientation of the cylinder). 2. Second dial run was the co-axial position of the cylinder ( tool axis in line with cylinder axis). 3. In the third dial run, you measure the ovality of the cylinder taking the co-axial reference of step 2. My query -- If the cylinder is oval (out - of - round) , which usually is the case, would'nt it err on the cylinder centre location? - My second query is, would the taperness / angularity of the cylinder also need to be considered? After years of running, along with ovality, the cylinder might not be exactly in line with the vertical axis as well. Thanks
Oh boy, I would be very hesitant to tell a machinist how to set up their work. There are many ways to do this job, this is only how I do it. I think you may be making a mountain out of a mole hill. Your questions could mean different things to different folks, so I am hesitant to try to answer them. This is a very basic procedure try not to make it more than it is.
Of course, there could be multiple ways of doing it. I got a little over-cautious as I am dealing with a cylinder block which is no longer available in the market, as a spare. Anyway, Got your point. Keeping it simple. Thanks for your guidelines. 👍
Another high quality bore job Dale. Your new Milling Machine really is a beauty. Is the Sunnen bore guage off for calibration? He usually makes an appearance.. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, yes enjoying the new machine it is so tight compared to the old one. No, the Sunnen gauge is here, I can't believe I didn't get it in at least on clip. I had another gentlemen ask about it too. I just use it to monitor progress and use snap gauges and micrometer to measure final size and do it 3 times to ensure correct numbers.
Aren't You afraid that the spindle can be out of concentricity when You tighten the drawbar? You could end up with some pretty weird bores if it is. Nice job, saving the extra quarter of a mm!
Nope, don't worry about it at all, it pulls into a R-8 tapered spindle, it can't go anywhere. This cylinder measured to .0001 inch at 8 places up and down the cylinder when finished, more than likely better than it was from the factory.
Hey Peter, yes, all my machines run on 220 3 phase power. I run an American Rotary phase converter for all my milling machines, my new machine is variable speed so didn't need a VFD to control speed. My lathe was 220 single phase but I converted it to 3 phase and run it from a Lenze SM Vector VFD. This made a much better machine with infinite speed control and much smoother power. Three phase machines are much more affordable than single phase most of the time, and if you are looking for replacement motors, 3 phase motors are cheap and have only one moving part, no brushes or switches to go bad.
Thanks, I enjoy doing them also, hope folks don't get tired of the same old thing all the time. The dial bore gauge was used, I guess I just didn't get a clip of it in this video......wow how can that happen, didn't notice till you said something. For the gauge I use most the range is 2 to 6 inches. I have two smaller ones for below two inches. Which will probably get used for boring the HS1. That is going to be a challenge for sure. The dial bore gauge is used to monitor the progress of the hone, I use snap gauges and micrometers for the bottom-line measurements and those are done at least three times to ensure consistent numbers.
It varies, the setup, bore, hone to fit, and chamfer ports is a couple hours for me. But I'm retired and slow. I'm sure someone that does it for a living would be much quicker. But I take my time and make sure it is right. No need to hurry.
I know ur super busy, but would you consider doing a set of stock bore rz350 cylinders to first over?, im not in a rush ,I need them for next summer , I have the new pistons , and I would pay you to do this
Hey Kevin, I try to stay with the older stuff and stay away from the exotic bikes and liquid cooled. Just no experience with them. Sorry man, hope you understand.
Well done, Dale. Came out perfect. Another one saved by precision machining. Congrats on hitting 7K subscribers.
Thanks 👍
Excellent work as per usual Dale ! Wish I had your skills, not to mention your shop !!
Cheers, Ard
Thank you, Ard, I sure appreciate the kind words, I am having fun with my shop, it has been a lifetime dream to be able to work in the shop every day and was working to equip it before retirement that made it possible.
@@montana2strokeracer Praise where praise is due Dale ! Sounds like you got it done to a point and it looks like it too.
My "shop/garage" is a lot smaller but it's my happy place for the stuff I do too. I should spend more time in there but it'll come this year I am sure !
Cheers, Ard
Shop time is happy time Ard.
Nice job as always Dale. It's a lucky person who ends up with the results of your work.
Cheers, Peter.
Thanks brother.
Great that you have the machinery & know-how to do this work yourself Dale, where I live it's difficult to get this machining done, many people simply buy a new cylinder/jug.
Hey Darren, I know what you mean. I didn't always do my own, I use to farm it out, but the quality got so poor, that I was forced to do it myself. The problem these days working with the older machines is that NOS and aftermarket cylinders are just not available for most of these. Pistons for some are hard to find also. The time is coming where you will have to get custom pistons made, that time is already here for all but the big three jap bikes. This is not something I have just noticed, I hear from viewers every day that tell me, they can't get cylinders bored and many motorcycle shops refuse to work on bikes that are over 10 years old, some may go 20 years old. Many general machine shops have closed or just don't understand the required clearances of air-cooled motorcycles. So simply put it is out of necessity that I now do my own machine work, but the good thing is it keeps my mind active, I enjoy it and it's just plain fun. Do I make mistakes...sure...you learn from it and move on. I watch a couple guys from Australia that are machinist, there must be some still doing work, but you might have to send it to them, not sure about your location or theirs.
@@montana2strokeracerI ran into a similar problem. No one wants to work on old bikes so I had to learn how to do it myself. I got lucky and found a local machine shop that likes side work. They usually do work for oil companies so they have all the tools …and experienced guys who know how to operate them. It’s not cheap but they can do some things I can’t in my shop. 👀interesting info on the custom pistons.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for the detailled reply Dale.
Nicasil(spelling?) Coated cylinders don't help the cause also.😢
Really nice machine there Dale. It certainly takes patience and know-how to set it up I'm sure. It's quite satisfying to watch the cylinder bore get cleaned up and ready for the new piston.
Hey Doug, thank you, I enjoy the process also, it is strange how each one differs in how it wears and cleans up.
super duper dale, you da man, i seen my little chopper sitting there on the table and it made me smile, good job as always, catch u on the next one, your friend in ky...
Thanks James, yes, the chopper is on the bench.....and it makes me smile too. Thanks again.
Nice that you were able to save at least.25. Good job brother.
Always looking to save metal if I can.
Thanks Dale but i believe I will be giving all my boring and crank work to you . Thanks for all your hard work Dale .
Murr
Thanks Murray, I'm sure there are folks that do much better work, but I try to pay attention to the details and get it done right. Thats how I want my own stuff done. But warning, I'm slow.
great job as always dale cleaned up a treat should be sweet as keep up the great work next video please
Think so too, thanks again for hanging out with me in the shop Mark.
Good morning Dale, great job on the cylinder. I am getting a shopping list on all the parts I need for my projects, I need a ton of stuff... Looking forward to watching the build on the AT2.
Thanks Don and good morning to you also. These projects take a lot of parts and in my case take about a week to get them, for some reason I don't plan very well and my list making skills are substandard. I never seem to get all the parts needed for a single project and have to order several times. I tend to stock most of the most used parts to help me with that issue. But you never have them all.
@@montana2strokeracer that is my problem too, I always forget to order something….lol
DAle, I SERIOUSLY envy that Sunnen honinng machine you have there.
Hey Johnnie, those things are all over the place, they used to be in every filling station shop across this country. I found mine with most of the mandrels, I have since picked up some more mandrels to accommodate my needs. I just this weekend saw one on Facebook marketplace here in Montana. I will tell you they are handy as a pocket on a shirt. I don't just use them for honing cylinders, lots of ID work you do on the lathe requires tight tolerances, so bore it close and hone to fit. Did it on swing arm bushing not too long ago.
Here with the coffee And learning.
Glad to see ya here Mark.
Another great Video Dale: I would like to see an RM suspension conversion for a CT2 or 3, Maybe some longer travel YZ125 forks would make a good trail bike.
I have been working on plans for just a conversion. It will be a bit more work than the 250MX, for the rear swing arm mount is completely different. Front forks are easy, the 125 MX that I have now has DT250 forks and longer travel rear shocks, 13.5 inch, I think. But yeah the lay down shocks will be cool, I already have a couple RM swing arms. The 81 RM forks will adapt pretty easy I think, at least I already have a set.
That's good all, take care again .
Very nice work Dale!
Thanks Dave, I enjoy this part of it a lot.
Thanks to your videos Dale the TS400 engine does run and sounds strong. Can't thank you enough!
Very Nice job 👏👏👏
Hi Dale, it appears that the coaxial indicator was off a bit. you must trust the spindle mount more than the coaxial.
Rich
Hey Rich, I never trust the coaxial indicator, I only use it to get close, then use the test indicator to fine adjust. Maybe a good US, German, or Swiss made coaxial indicator would be more reliable, but they are very expensive, mine is offshore made and it is always off one or two thousands.
Very Nice job 👀👀👀👏👏👏👏👏
A very nice execution Dale... Its rare, one gets to see to this detail. 👍
I was trying to understand the steps, so that we can guide our local machinist here to follow this procedure :
1. The first dial run was to check the level ( horizontal orientation of the cylinder).
2. Second dial run was the co-axial position of the cylinder ( tool axis in line with cylinder axis).
3. In the third dial run, you measure the ovality of the cylinder taking the co-axial reference of step 2.
My query -- If the cylinder is oval (out - of - round) , which usually is the case, would'nt it err on the cylinder centre location?
- My second query is, would the taperness / angularity of the cylinder also need to be considered? After years of running, along with ovality, the cylinder might not be exactly in line with the vertical axis as well.
Thanks
Oh boy, I would be very hesitant to tell a machinist how to set up their work. There are many ways to do this job, this is only how I do it. I think you may be making a mountain out of a mole hill. Your questions could mean different things to different folks, so I am hesitant to try to answer them. This is a very basic procedure try not to make it more than it is.
Of course, there could be multiple ways of doing it. I got a little over-cautious as I am dealing with a cylinder block which is no longer available in the market, as a spare.
Anyway, Got your point. Keeping it simple. Thanks for your guidelines. 👍
Another high quality bore job Dale. Your new Milling Machine really is a beauty.
Is the Sunnen bore guage off for calibration? He usually makes an appearance..
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean, yes enjoying the new machine it is so tight compared to the old one. No, the Sunnen gauge is here, I can't believe I didn't get it in at least on clip. I had another gentlemen ask about it too. I just use it to monitor progress and use snap gauges and micrometer to measure final size and do it 3 times to ensure correct numbers.
Aren't You afraid that the spindle can be out of concentricity when You tighten the drawbar? You could end up with some pretty weird bores if it is. Nice job, saving the extra quarter of a mm!
Nope, don't worry about it at all, it pulls into a R-8 tapered spindle, it can't go anywhere. This cylinder measured to .0001 inch at 8 places up and down the cylinder when finished, more than likely better than it was from the factory.
Perfect❤❤❤
Very nice❤
Great work as always! Curious about power requirements for your equipment? 3 phase 480V or just single 220V?
You can run three phase machines pretty easily off single phase best bet is rotary phase shifter or vfd drive It is worth it.
Hey Peter, yes, all my machines run on 220 3 phase power. I run an American Rotary phase converter for all my milling machines, my new machine is variable speed so didn't need a VFD to control speed. My lathe was 220 single phase but I converted it to 3 phase and run it from a Lenze SM Vector VFD. This made a much better machine with infinite speed control and much smoother power. Three phase machines are much more affordable than single phase most of the time, and if you are looking for replacement motors, 3 phase motors are cheap and have only one moving part, no brushes or switches to go bad.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks! Was curious as to how you handled the power requirements! Residential power is usually limited to 110/220V.
Love watching these. Hmmm. No dial bore gage this time. Is the bore size out of range for it?
Thanks, I enjoy doing them also, hope folks don't get tired of the same old thing all the time. The dial bore gauge was used, I guess I just didn't get a clip of it in this video......wow how can that happen, didn't notice till you said something. For the gauge I use most the range is 2 to 6 inches. I have two smaller ones for below two inches. Which will probably get used for boring the HS1. That is going to be a challenge for sure. The dial bore gauge is used to monitor the progress of the hone, I use snap gauges and micrometers for the bottom-line measurements and those are done at least three times to ensure consistent numbers.
I'm up, sort of! where`s the coffee?
Awesome, find that coffee buddy
Nice. How much time does it take, to rebore and all it takes to finish it?
It varies, the setup, bore, hone to fit, and chamfer ports is a couple hours for me. But I'm retired and slow. I'm sure someone that does it for a living would be much quicker. But I take my time and make sure it is right. No need to hurry.
@@montana2strokeracer Thanks for the answer. I also like to work slow and precise.
I know ur super busy, but would you consider doing a set of stock bore rz350 cylinders to first over?, im not in a rush ,I need them for next summer , I have the new pistons , and I would pay you to do this
Hey Kevin, I try to stay with the older stuff and stay away from the exotic bikes and liquid cooled. Just no experience with them. Sorry man, hope you understand.
@@montana2strokeracer ok no problem, thx for taking the time to reply
0,25 haben wir einfach raus gehont. wofür Bohren?
Here
what solvent is in your safetyclean?
I use mineral spirits.