One important help, open the hood, and loosen the brake fluid cover, makes it easier to push the pistons at the wheel side, there will be less pressure for ur C-clamp. Also a good idea to place a rag under the Brake Fluid reservoir to catch over flow of brake fluid.
Great tips, thanks for the input! Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/ford-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00660?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Mountain Shooter 52 Exactly the response I was going to post! Thank you! If you push pistons back this way without opening the bleed nipple, the fluid going back past the ABS sensor in the master cylinder will trigger your ABS light on the dash, and you will need a scan tool to clear the code.
He forgot to put the return springs on the back of the pads before putting the csliper back on the caliper bracket. Two wire springs on each side. Point springs towards the middle, insert into small holes on the back edge of the pads. Calipers are placed over the springs. These keep the brakes from chirping while you drive by pushing them away from the rotors slightly.
This is a great video! I'm a novice DIY'er, lots of experience on acft from my 26 yrs in the USAF, but minimal on vehicles. I'm not scared to take on a job, especially if I've got a good set of instructions. This video was straight to the point, and when I began taking apart the wheel it was exactly like the truck here. From an instructional point of view (I'm a former Drill Sgt), the slow bits where you fast forwarded thru the simple stuff was superb. No time wasted, nothing fancy, all instruction was relevant, everything went exactly as shown. VERY impressed! Obviously I'll be using you guys for my parts purchases in the future, and of course any future training, you know what your doing. Thank you for a great class. God Bless! Chez
One tip from an old retired wrench. Get A breaker bar instead of using A ratchet wrench. Very hard on your gears in there and if you are using A ratchet from say Horrible Fright when the gear train goes south your knuckles are not going to be happy!
As I understand it, you should crack the bleed nipple open on your caliper to push the caliper pistons back with the CClamp. If you don’t- you will push the brake fluid back past the ABS brake sensor in the master cylinder, which will trigger your ABS brake warning light on the dash. I suspect you will need a scan tool to clear that code on the engine computer to get the dash light to re set to off on the dash! The way shown here is OK on non ABS equipped vehicles but not the F250 which has ABS. Pushing the fluid back past the sensor triggers the dash light for ABS brakes because the sensor “thinks” that the piston cups in the master cylinder are leaking fluid past them meaning they are worn out and the master cylinder needs honing & piston needs new rubber cups! You don’t want to get into rebuilding the master cylinder because of a basic simple oversight like this because the brake booster is nitrogen filled. My 2c
One thing I learned the hard way today, make sure the new rotors are completely cleaned of the shipping grease that they put on them from the factory. I didn't clean them up that well and had smoke pouring from my truck after the first test drive. Thought it was going to catch on fire. Turns out it was just really embarrassing.
He did not replace the spreader springs - those that go on the back of the pads to help hold them apart and move them away from the rotor when brakes are not applied. Are these not needed?
Noticed the same thing. I just did this job yesterday on my '01 F350 and new springs were included with the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads so, yes, they are needed. This springs really put pressure on the pads to push away from the rotors and make putting the caliper back on while keeping the pads in place a bit of a struggle. Big omission here.
+thebrdfrds Congratulations on the successful repair. We're glad the video helped you out. For anyone else looking to replace their rotors, 1A Auto offers the parts here: www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakePadAndRotorKits/Ford/F250-Truck/1ABFS00660?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Yeah I love my truck, I wasn't trying to be mean with my comment, I was just saying that you should do a DIY video the way most of us work on trucks, beer in one hand, and dip in our lips and swatting skeeters. Anyway keep the DIY coming, I actually used your "How to remove the door panel" video from my phone while I was out by my truck. Thanks
Didn't read through all of the comments so I don't know if this was brought up to attention. Only thing I seen that didn't get done in this video was the brake pad spacing return wire spring clip. Whatever you want to call It. Was not reinstalled with new brake pads. Which before anybody else makes a comment on this comment. I do know a lot of people don't stick them on. They toss them to the trash. Just wanted to bring it up though in case somebody trying to do it theirself for the first time.. Seen that part was still in there box and didn't know what it was for.
Very nice video. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge so the not so smart guys like me can do the job at home. Thanks you and God Bless you as you share more. ;-)
13 mins to perform a break/rotor change out? In a controlled environment, maybe hahaha! I have a 2003 F-350 6.0L with 9 inch lift and 38X12.5 tires with 18 wheels, thanks for the video I'm ready to change some brakes!
You are the best My Friend I am semi-retired Mechanic and Intercontinental Professional E-Boxer From old Contry Serbia . I been waching You for little vile agent yuo are The best Best Regards From Roy Cekerevac Kitchener CANADA >
It's not too hard, those pins that slide in & out can be a pain in the butt if they are frozen in place. I found that if they are you can get them loose by putting the head of the pin into a bench vice & work the bracket back & forth till you can move it easily, then put a big Channel lock wrench between the head od the pin & the bracket & lever the bracket up while moving it back & forth till it pops loose. if that doesn't work, you have to heat it with a torch.
That didnt look to horriffic, my rig is ready for its first brake job, and my first, as well. Wish me luck. Ill be running back and forth from the driveway
great video a1auto videos are about the best out there..question I'm having problems with what I think are the clips moving and hitting rotor? ?used new rotors and loaded calipers and still have something rubbing? ? thanks for sharing knowledge
Just be sure to check the Caliper guidance pins (the part the caliper bolts go into) & their rubber boots. I found the lower guidance pin frozen. (they should slide freely in 7 out) on both front brakes. had to take the brakepad holders off & use a torch to get them loose. cleaned them up with a wire brush & reamed out the holes they go into, remember to grease the back of the pads, the guidance pins, & the clips that hold the pads.
I guess the Pad retainer springs went to the trash since you didn't reinstall them. I am guessing that customer came back and you dug them out of the trash and installed them. Nothing like comebacks first thing on Mondays.
+Randall Quick Thanks for watching! Unfortunately there is not an easy process to putting them back on. They will help keep the brake pads off the rotor giving you better brake life, but are not necessary to have proper functioning brakes. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto Kinda like those pesky oil changes. New oil will give better engine life, but not necessary to have a proper functioning engine. LOL Good video one mistake that could be addressed in post or description. No need to gloss over it like it's the correct way.
At 11:21 you did not reinstall the V-shaped return springs that you had removed at 04:34. (the top of the pads) Instead, you are putting the caliper back on without them. Oops! Thank you for stating the foot pounds of torque recommended for this installation!
I see so many mechanics do this, they focus and spend more time on how to get the wheel off, torque specs, but the main problem people have iv seen is , the placement of the slide pins, they just snap im in not showing people the proper placement, not spending any time there, i dont know how many slide pins iv seen put in wrong……..
How do you know if you should replace the calipers? My 2006 F2 50 has 125,000 miles on it. Brakes still work good the pads are just wearing thin. No pulling when breaking or anything
+Heily - If you see uneven wear in the brake pads, leaking brake fluid, or hear a clunking sound, those are signs you need to replace your calipers. If you hear a squealing or a metallic noise, that could be your caliper freezing up.
You may be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. The tools needed may be different sizes though. Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
+ride on Nikki Haley 2024 We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Here is a link to the repair part that would fit your vehicle. Hope this helps you out
HI James, We carry some nice brake rotor and pad kits for your truck. Here's a link to them on our website. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Ford/F250-Truck/-/-/2006?VideoReply&TH-cam&ATony
+Devon Ludwig You may be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Here is a link to the front brake pads and rotors that we carry for your truck. Hope this helps you out. goo.gl/aSgCjd
Should always loosen the bolts and take it for a ride down a gravel road or slam the brakes on a few times. I’ve had them wheels that have been on for many years not come off any other way.
You should be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. We carry brake pad and rotor kits for your 2006 F150. Here's a link to them on our website. We also offer FREE SHIPPING on all of our auto parts in the lower 48 states. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1A/brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/Ford/F150-Truck/-/-/2006?VideoReply&TH-cam&ATony
+Zach Z Thank you for watching. Unfortunately we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
what did you show us at 7:52? ?? a ripped bellows? and you didn't mention what type of "grease". I have seen dozens of how-to vids suggesting "grease"... Good LUCK! You had better use ONLY a silicone/ or silicone/ceramic "grease", or else your bellows will soon be looking like the ripped one you just 're-used'!
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
2q , butitwould
You didn't re-install the springs on the brake pads.
I could not have done my first break job on my truck without the help of this video. Thanks
One important help, open the hood, and loosen the brake fluid cover, makes it easier to push the pistons at the wheel side, there will be less pressure for ur C-clamp. Also a good idea to place a rag under the Brake Fluid reservoir to catch over flow of brake fluid.
Great tips, thanks for the input! Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/ford-brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00660?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
shouldn't you be opening the bleeder valve for that so you not pushing back through sensors?
Mountain Shooter 52 I have wondered the exact same thing... Done many this way though, not on my 7.3 yet.
Mountain Shooter 52 Exactly the response I was going to post! Thank you!
If you push pistons back this way without opening the bleed nipple, the fluid going back past the ABS sensor in the master cylinder will trigger your ABS light on the dash, and you will need a scan tool to clear the code.
You left out the part where the drop light falls of the hood and the bulb bursts on the intake...lol...no worries Have a great day!
He forgot to put the return springs on the back of the pads before putting the csliper back on the caliper bracket. Two wire springs on each side. Point springs towards the middle, insert into small holes on the back edge of the pads. Calipers are placed over the springs. These keep the brakes from chirping while you drive by pushing them away from the rotors slightly.
+Michael McCoy Thanks for the feedback!
This is a great video! I'm a novice DIY'er, lots of experience on acft from my 26 yrs in the USAF, but minimal on vehicles. I'm not scared to take on a job, especially if I've got a good set of instructions. This video was straight to the point, and when I began taking apart the wheel it was exactly like the truck here. From an instructional point of view (I'm a former Drill Sgt), the slow bits where you fast forwarded thru the simple stuff was superb. No time wasted, nothing fancy, all instruction was relevant, everything went exactly as shown. VERY impressed! Obviously I'll be using you guys for my parts purchases in the future, and of course any future training, you know what your doing. Thank you for a great class. God Bless! Chez
Thanks for checking us out. Have a great weekend! 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
One tip from an old retired wrench. Get A breaker bar instead of using A ratchet wrench. Very hard on your gears in there and if you are using A ratchet from say Horrible Fright when the gear train goes south your knuckles are not going to be happy!
Gary Ronan a 2002 2 wheel drive 2000 F350 how to take wheel bearings off
If you buy heavy duty tools from the Horror Fright, then you kind of deserve getting your knuckles bruised lol
No grease on outside of replacement pads. Was informative and well done. Thx
+offshorewarrior25 Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
i have found that putting some antiseeze or grease around the hub where the center of the rotor sits helps for future repairs
Always a good idea. I was hoping someone said this, thank you.
hayden ingram 4th y9
As I understand it, you should crack the bleed nipple open on your caliper to push the caliper pistons back with the CClamp.
If you don’t- you will push the brake fluid back past the ABS brake sensor in the master cylinder, which will trigger your ABS brake warning light on the dash. I suspect you will need a scan tool to clear that code on the engine computer to get the dash light to re set to off on the dash!
The way shown here is OK on non ABS equipped vehicles but not the F250 which has ABS.
Pushing the fluid back past the sensor triggers the dash light for ABS brakes because the sensor “thinks” that the piston cups in the master cylinder are leaking fluid past them meaning they are worn out and the master cylinder needs honing & piston needs new rubber cups!
You don’t want to get into rebuilding the master cylinder because of a basic simple oversight like this because the brake booster is nitrogen filled.
My 2c
+Ian Moone Thank you for the feedback. 1aauto.com
my abs light is already on so I'll risk it lol
One thing I learned the hard way today, make sure the new rotors are completely cleaned of the shipping grease that they put on them from the factory. I didn't clean them up that well and had smoke pouring from my truck after the first test drive. Thought it was going to catch on fire. Turns out it was just really embarrassing.
You can add a little anit-squeak grease to the (found at the parts store) to help prevent them from squeaking.
No spreader springs or grease on the slides
He did not replace the spreader springs - those that go on the back of the pads to help hold them apart and move them away from the rotor when brakes are not applied. Are these not needed?
Noticed the same thing. I just did this job yesterday on my '01 F350 and new springs were included with the Wagner ThermoQuiet pads so, yes, they are needed. This springs really put pressure on the pads to push away from the rotors and make putting the caliper back on while keeping the pads in place a bit of a struggle. Big omission here.
Excellent parts and very clear video. Thanks for the help replacing front rotors and brakes on my F250
+thebrdfrds Congratulations on the successful repair. We're glad the video helped you out. For anyone else looking to replace their rotors, 1A Auto offers the parts here: www.1aauto.com/1A/BrakePadAndRotorKits/Ford/F250-Truck/1ABFS00660?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
you should file the caliper bracket where the hardware sits to make sure the pads slide in easily!!
I was about to pay 200 for the front brakes but now I can just do it myself thanks so much.
+TheFootloose Goose Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yeah I love my truck, I wasn't trying to be mean with my comment, I was just saying that you should do a DIY video the way most of us work on trucks, beer in one hand, and dip in our lips and swatting skeeters. Anyway keep the DIY coming, I actually used your "How to remove the door panel" video from my phone while I was out by my truck. Thanks
Thanks for the great video, it was a nice refresher before I did my brakes.
Hi guys i saved a lot of money for tutoring thanks.
+William flores Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The old foot method. Can't go wrong with that. Lol
+Ricke Spanish Thanks for checking us out! If it works it works, right? Unfortunately this tire wasn't cooperating, had to give it the 'ol hammer!
Didn't read through all of the comments so I don't know if this was brought up to attention. Only thing I seen that didn't get done in this video was the brake pad spacing return wire spring clip. Whatever you want to call It. Was not reinstalled with new brake pads. Which before anybody else makes a comment on this comment. I do know a lot of people don't stick them on. They toss them to the trash. Just wanted to bring it up though in case somebody trying to do it theirself for the first time.. Seen that part was still in there box and didn't know what it was for.
Very nice video. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge so the not so smart guys like me can do the job at home. Thanks you and God Bless you as you share more. ;-)
do you leave out the wire spreader springs when putting in new pads ? ? ?
it you didn't re-install the other wire looking clips/retainers. are those not needed?
This was a great vid for the novice DIY'r. Thanks
Caliper slide pin positions? And information on which pin goes where?
you didn't have to open up the master cylinder cover when pushing in the caliper?
That’s best practice!
how do you torque with an extension
very well done I just ordered pads and rotors thanks. added to faves
13 mins to perform a break/rotor change out? In a controlled environment, maybe hahaha! I have a 2003 F-350 6.0L with 9 inch lift and 38X12.5 tires with 18 wheels, thanks for the video I'm ready to change some brakes!
I have a 2006 f350 4x4. I don't have the v springs but extra two clips. You have any info on how they go on?
great vedeo and great explaining cheers from Norway very good help
thank you great video...wasnt sure where the wire spring clips went, as they were missing or mangled from whoever did the previous break job
Great Video.......Thanks for posting.......Very clear video and well narrated.
Gracias por las buenas sujerencias
Excellent video, 1A Auto is legit! I've bought from them before, and I highly recommend them. I will be buying these brakes for my F250!
+Jared Nicholas Thanks for the kind words. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Thanks man
You are the best My Friend I am semi-retired Mechanic and Intercontinental Professional E-Boxer From old Contry Serbia . I been waching You for little vile agent yuo are The best Best Regards From Roy Cekerevac Kitchener CANADA >
The slots in the brake pads are not wear indicators by the way.....
Torque specs are wrong!
They should be as follows:
Caliper bracket: 166
Caliper bolts: 42
Wheel lugs: 165
You didn't reinstall the separator spring that you took off at 4:32.
nice video from a legit and honest company! keep the good work up. Wish you the best!
Love to hear that kind of feedback :) We're happy to know you like what we're doing! Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
What about the 2 wires that you removed from the old pads?
Good video. Thanks.
+stoney139 Thanks for checking us out, glad you enjoyed the video! 1aauto.com
You can if you want to, but isn't necessary.
You forgot the springs that go from pad to pad.
It's not too hard, those pins that slide in & out can be a pain in the butt if they are frozen in place. I found that if they are you can get them loose by putting the head of the pin into a bench vice & work the bracket back & forth till you can move it easily, then put a big Channel lock wrench between the head od the pin & the bracket & lever the bracket up while moving it back & forth till it pops loose. if that doesn't work, you have to heat it with a torch.
What about the retainer wire son the Barrie shoe
That didnt look to horriffic, my rig is ready for its first brake job, and my first, as well. Wish me luck. Ill be running back and forth from the driveway
Thanks a lot!
great video a1auto videos are about the best out there..question I'm having problems with what I think are the clips moving and hitting rotor? ?used new rotors and loaded calipers and still have something rubbing? ? thanks for sharing knowledge
what size C clap is he using?
great video, thanks for doing this
I noticed that also.
Return springs not reinstalled! Why?
good work
Awesome! Thank you. Oh, thanks for stopping the “tape” lol. Your age is showing!
+Jack K Thank you for your feedback.
You torqued the caliper anchor plate bolts 145 lbs. but my shop manual and elsewhere online say it should be 166 lbs. Why the discrepancy?
Just be sure to check the Caliper guidance pins (the part the caliper bolts go into) & their rubber boots. I found the lower guidance pin frozen. (they should slide freely in 7 out) on both front brakes. had to take the brakepad holders off & use a torch to get them loose. cleaned them up with a wire brush & reamed out the holes they go into, remember to grease the back of the pads, the guidance pins, & the clips that hold the pads.
I guess the Pad retainer springs went to the trash since you didn't reinstall them. I am guessing that customer came back and you dug them out of the trash and installed them. Nothing like comebacks first thing on Mondays.
Didn't replace the spreader springs. Is there an easy process to put them back on the new pads. They are a bear to put back on.
+Randall Quick Thanks for watching! Unfortunately there is not an easy process to putting them back on. They will help keep the brake pads off the rotor giving you better brake life, but are not necessary to have proper functioning brakes. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto Kinda like those pesky oil changes. New oil will give better engine life, but not necessary to have a proper functioning engine. LOL Good video one mistake that could be addressed in post or description. No need to gloss over it like it's the correct way.
At 11:21 you did not reinstall the V-shaped return springs that you had removed at 04:34. (the top of the pads) Instead, you are putting the caliper back on without them. Oops!
Thank you for stating the foot pounds of torque recommended for this installation!
Is it similar if it’s a 4x4?
What does it do to grease the back of the pads?
I see so many mechanics do this, they focus and spend more time on how to get the wheel off, torque specs, but the main problem people have iv seen is , the placement of the slide pins, they just snap im in not showing people the proper placement, not spending any time there, i dont know how many slide pins iv seen put in wrong……..
How do you know if you should replace the calipers? My 2006 F2 50 has 125,000 miles on it. Brakes still work good the pads are just wearing thin. No pulling when breaking or anything
+Heily - If you see uneven wear in the brake pads, leaking brake fluid, or hear a clunking sound, those are signs you need to replace your calipers. If you hear a squealing or a metallic noise, that could be your caliper freezing up.
Great video, can I assume the process should be similar to a 2011 f250 diesel ?
You may be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. The tools needed may be different sizes though. Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I got an intake manifold from 1a auto. It was trash
do you pump the brakes with the vehicle on or off?
+Jonathan Demet You pump the brakes with the vehicle off.
How do you change the front brakes on a 1971 F250 3 quarter ton 4 wheel drive
+ride on Nikki Haley 2024 We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Here is a link to the repair part that would fit your vehicle. Hope this helps you out
my hose on rear passenger leaking bad, is hose/pad pretty straightfoward on an '06 f250 diesel? parts at autozone about 300 for rotor pads & hose..
HI James, We carry some nice brake rotor and pad kits for your truck. Here's a link to them on our website. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Ford/F250-Truck/-/-/2006?VideoReply&TH-cam&ATony
Would it be the same process for a 1995 f 250
+Devon Ludwig You may be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Here is a link to the front brake pads and rotors that we carry for your truck. Hope this helps you out. goo.gl/aSgCjd
Should always loosen the bolts and take it for a ride down a gravel road or slam the brakes on a few times. I’ve had them wheels that have been on for many years not come off any other way.
I liked your video except I could see everything you were doing do to camera position
Is it the same concept for a 2006 ford f150? Tnx!
You should be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. We carry brake pad and rotor kits for your 2006 F150. Here's a link to them on our website. We also offer FREE SHIPPING on all of our auto parts in the lower 48 states. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1A/brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/Ford/F150-Truck/-/-/2006?VideoReply&TH-cam&ATony
Yes exact same way. Just look up torque specs for your truck.
Would this be the same for a 2000 ford f450?
+Zach Z Thank you for watching. Unfortunately we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
Thanks for the response! Ill be on the lookout. Much appreciated.
what did you show us at 7:52? ?? a ripped bellows? and you didn't mention what type of "grease". I have seen dozens of how-to vids suggesting "grease"... Good LUCK! You had better use ONLY a silicone/ or silicone/ceramic "grease", or else your bellows will soon be looking like the ripped one you just 're-used'!
I don't suppose you guys would do a 2 wheel drive video for an 05? lol
+Duane Wente We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
Hank’s truck
🙋♂️💯