Cody I must say having you "neighbor" there and his questions really take your vids to the next level. When you have as much knowledge as you do it helps to have your "neighbor" there to ask though questions.
That's why I watch you Cody. I'm not always interested in the content, but every time I see that you have uploaded a video a smile always comes across my face. I think the way that you set up your videos and the way in which you deliver those videos is fantastic! Thanks for all the work you do to provide content to us!
Cody, here is a tip for you, having to deal with this currently on my personal 2002 F250. (had smoke pouring off one caliper while driving) I found out out that the brake hoses between the caliper and metal line go bad frequently and work like a check valve preventing the caliper from releasing. replace those hoses (about $30 ea) and you should eliminate the "cause" of the problem. (might also be an idea to replace the other rubber hoses) also check your brake fluid, if you see any discoloration (green = agae brown/golden = burnt fluid [should be clear]) flush the fluid until clear & re-bleed the system.
I've rebuilt F250 calipers before, back in the day, and you just need a hone and a rebuild kit and they work great. It''s just an O ring and a cylinder in the bore of the caliper.. On a dual piston setup, it's just 2 of them. The only reason you need a new caliper is if you bugger up the bore, or the bleeder valve gets snapped off or you buggered up the slides... :) Great vids Cody and Mrs W. :)
you know what man ive been watching your videos for a long time now i i could go on forever about how they have changed my life life. but i want to tell you a short story. i drink alot of soda ha. and well one day i was bleeding my brakes... and i bled them into a coke can. i got thirsty so i went to take a long swig... and i ended up with a mouthful of brake fluid. so long story short, my top tip is to bleed in to a container that you wont mistake as a beverage haha. keep it up cody and thank you.
+Wranglerstar... Drinking brake fluid... Man , that reminds me of an incident many years ago , at a friends place enjoying some cold beer and listening to some tunes while sitting at a dimly lit Bar in the basement . There were smokers who used an unfinished beer for an ashtray ....... That tasted ..... like an ashtray would ..... and yes , it was a Bummer .
Yes, you were lucky. We learned how dangerous it is when my grandson, about 2 years old at the time, took a drink out of a cup containing break fluid. Apparently, it tasted so bad he only took one swallow. He was hospitalized for about a day, and that is when we learned how fatal it can be. Scary stuff.
Cody, as far as parts pricing go, yes the dealership is usually going to be more expensive, but after working at a Ford dealer for for several years both in parts and service, they are not the most expensive all the time. Just remember when you go to or call a dealer to have your VIN handy, where I worked they only needed the last 8 digits. Also when brakes are seized up make sure to double check your slide pins to make sure thats not what is causing the problem. And there probably no go way to explain this without being there in person, but you can depress the piston without unbolting it, using a pry bar. Keep up with the great videos.
going way back in the wranglerstar playlist, but the original brake video motivated me to do some more work on my own truck. plus loving tim in the videos. keep up the good work
Between my 2 friends and my self I have seen 4-6 sets of "locked up" calipers. One on a 2003 Excursion, several on a 2007 F250 (rear) and several on my 2007 Fusion (rear). My theory is the slide/guide pins are sticking, despite being well lubricated. One axle set that I replaced, new pins would NOT fir the existing holes in the caliper until I actually drilled the holes over sized. The last set of rear pads I installed on my Fusion lasted less than 12 months ! These were top quality, name brand, ceramic pads. If you have a problem with a Ford caliper, I now recommend replacing BOTH the caliper and the bracket with re-manufactured units. These come as one sub-assembly including new pre-lubed slide/guide pins and new rubber "boots" for the pins. Rebuilt calipers and bracket for your truck from Rock Auto are about $101 with a $56 "core" charge.
I rebuilt my calipers on my 01 F350. Also replaced the ball joints (using your video for a guide). That was 2 or 3 yrs ago now. I used EBC rotors and brake pads. Couldn't be more satisfied with them. My truck has 240k and has the 7.3 Diesel in it.
Cody, you made a comment about content.. I think you are very correct. I love your passion for God and family. I have subbed to your channel since back when it was Wranglerbarn... And your DIY channel... It is more about your passion and heart than the topics.. However because of you.. I now own a ton of hand axes, bits and braces, planes, and etc. so your heart has helped show me a new world of things I might not have looked at.. Thank you
Thanks for the repair videos I replaced the ball joints on my f250 your video made it a lot easier going through the steps to do it properly thanks again
Cody I read someone commented that you might have a bad brake line. I had a Ford truck once that my brakes did like your brake. It took sometime to figure out that I had a bad brake line. I was told by Ford that they have a problem with the lining of the flexible brake line breaking down and it creates a flap like a valve. I changed out the flexible line and never had that problem again. Best of luck getting your truck back up and running.
A mechanic put on a Napa one 7 months ago in my welding rig . Just yesterday I had to pinch the brake line off with vise grips to make it home. Holy was that rotor hot . Anyway After pulling off the wheel the pistons were evenly distributed. The sliders didn’t have any grease on them. I cleaned off all the dirt with a small wire brush then put on the orange grease. Now she rolls smoothly . I fixed it . Costed me 50 cents.
in my 30 plus years of working on cars I've seen a vast change in parts quality it doesn't matter if you buy Napa O'Reilly Auto Zone or CARQUEST they're all the same parts anymore just in different boxes
Cody like you said in the video, im personally dont have an interest in the content you have on your channel, but i admire your passion, and thats why im subscribed.
A Bummer only getting 6 months of use for that caliper . I can relate to the days of rebuilding the calipers, we stopped doing that as the time costs increased to the point were it was not worth the time to rebuild along with liability so exchange for a new one . I hope you have better luck with the next one .
Super duty's of this era have this problem all the time. I put some drilled and slotted rotors (I know sounds crazy) on mine and never had a problem since. Seems that the truck is so heavy that too much heat gets transferred to the caliper and just destroys them over time. Really it all comes down to cooling.
Check for a collapsed rubber break line. Often the inner sleeve of the break line will let the high pressure force the fluid into the caliper, but won't let the return fluid return to the line system and the master cylinder. Happens often.
Looks like one piston compressed when the other one didn't this time though. And it won't compress with the line removed either:( Although the brake hose would be an easy fix:)
+Julian P. I've seen a few dodges with failed brake lines that'd lock a caliper up. But yeah, something happened to that caliper that cocked or galled the pistons.
+Julian P. Agreed Julian. But my experience has been once the brake line is off the caliper releases. It didn't in this case. I've run into that problem a couple of times. First was on a big Chevy powered motor home with the brakes from HELL. Unlike anything I'd ever worked on. But I've since seen it on my Ford pick-up and a friends Chevy pick-up. I'm told moisture in the fluid system is to blame. It causes the rubber to swell up internally and hydraulic pressure will force fluid through the system, but of course it can't return. I'm no mechanic though. Just work on my own stuff. And friends. These online tutorials have helped me out more than once. There are things I'd STILL be working on without TH-cam.
I'm just concerned that in the removal of the caliper is when the piston was forced into a bind and not prior. Normally when let sit for a while or over night the pressure can get back though the collapsed line. In either case I'd replace the flex line at the same time I replaced the caliper. Not that a reman caliper couldn't be bad.
I've had so many NAPA calipers seize that I would only buy one if there were no options. Couldn't get them warrantied either. Had a small fire from one, lots of smoke from another, others seized but dragged loosely enough to make it home. Trying Auto Zone calipers this time since they're local and cheap. Raybestos Element3 are the only calipers I know of that are actually brand new. Everything else, even calipers from Ford dealerships, are remanufactured.
@@TheGuruStud yeah and Hondas have junk transmission BMW has engine issues Subaru has head gaskets. I thought like u once and found they ain't no better.but I've owned 1000s of cars so I know little more than most
as he said in the video while he was compressing the piston, the bore on the one cylinder in the caliper is messed up. The piston should never get hung up while trying to compress it
Funny story for ya, my brother who is an mechanic for twenty plus years. Used to tell me the same thing about levels of parts and to never buy anything that isn't at least Napa. One day my dodge ram clutch went out and I didn't have the money to buy one from Napa since they wanted twice what shucks (O'Reilly) wanted. All the way to the parts store and back he's telling that only a Luke clutch is the they to go and you can only get from Napa. So we get home and pull the trany and I open the box the new clutch came in and guess what was stamped right on the clutch, Luke. Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter because there isn't that many people making parts anymore. One goes to one store and the other good to a different store. Same thing happened when I was working at radio shack. Cleaning the receivers and I look down in the vents and on a radio shack stamped unit I saw on big letters Pioneer. Save your money my groomed friend.
oh shoot, my apologies, the 'show more' button didn't show up and only part of your comment appeared. It cut off right at 'guess what was' I was just getting interested and it stopped haha
My 2005 F350 used to hang up several times a year, and I took it to a private mechanic, and he said it was the cheap grease the dealer kept putting in there. He used a grease with never seize in it and I never had a problem with the brakes hanging up again. The dealer tried to tell me it was fairly normal if you didn't have the brakes serviced every year. I thought that was outrageous.
Hey Cody, I have been fighting this problem since my 06 SuperDuty was new. The Issue is that the pistons are made not from Metal which expands at a similar rate to the caliper, but from a phenolic compound that expands more than the bores in which they reside. Thus they seize in position after hard breaking, causing more drag, more heat, super hot seized brakes./ The reason for the change away from metal was to prevent heat transfer from the pad through the piston into the brake fluid which causes brake fade due to boiling. Ford was sued over this! I have often thought about reducing the diameter of the piston thus increasing clearance, but I am just too busy. I have never experiences stuck guide pins. So there you are.....send me a nice axe, Pete
Same problem with my Chevy, phenolic caliper pistons suck! I forced the piston out and it had swelled so much that it wouldn't fit back into the bore even without the seal!!!
Did Napa sell you that caliper painted black like that or did you paint it? When I replaced front caliper for F350, I was hopping to get either painted or zinc plated one, but could not find any in local stores. Rusted right away on first rain. At least calipers are not visible with stock wheel. I could have painted myself, but just too much trouble. Wanted to get the job done right away. BTW, I ended up getting caliper, rotor, and break pads from Advance Auto Parts and caliper locked up after just 4 months. Advance Auto Part did replace all of those under warranty, but lost a day of job. :(
You would think, bring a heavy goods mechanic in the U.K., I wouldn't want to watch anything about my trade/work. But watching your channel is always fun and educational to others. I struggle explaining what I'm doing to our apprentices. I wish I had your talent for explaining what you do when you work
Brake lines are bad to collapse on the inside of the brake lines going into the caliper. Try and open the bleed valve and see if the brakes release if so a brake line is your problem if not it's your caliper
Hi there Mr. W... have you looked that the proportioning valve . I had a jeep that did the same thing. The problem continued until I replaced it ... it's a expensive part but if you keep killing calipers you may want to consider replacing it.
Another Way-to-go for Mrs. W :-) That's the way to get it off! Brute force! We live in a throw-away society, MOST people if it stops working, throw it away and buy a new one. I am guilty in a way our 7year old washing machine bearings went, and we could not get all the parts to repair it, so we finally opted to get a new one with a warranty. AND Mrs B LOVES IT! I spins REALLY fast, and when the cloths come out the are nearly dry! And living it wet Ireland, with high humidity, that is in my oppinion, a very good thing! Hope the follow-up video is just waiting for me, as the suspense is just killing me! LOL! :-D
I agree with what you were saying about content not mattering. I mean I have no interest in how to fix F250 brakes, but I still clicked almost immediately.
I'm in management at Autozone down here in Arizona and that's one of those deals where if that happened, I'd make sure you got new pads and a rotor as well at no charge, parts shouldn't fail like that when they are so new...
I have given up on parts stores and only buy parts online unless it's an emergency. The stuff they sell is absolute garbage and totally overpriced. NAPA is the only major one I know of that's still kind of decent but even their store branded stuff is going down in quality.
So the repair of a Ford Super Duty stuck brake caliper is to go to NAPA. I was thinking you found some trick way to prevent the composite pistons from sticking in the caliper bore. This version of brake calipers used in late model Ford Super Duty trucks are notorious for sticking. An on the road quick fix is to use a large hammer on the back of the caliper. Give the caliper body several hard shots and most of the time the stuck piston will slip back in the bore. Most of the opinions follow the composite plastic pistons (2/ caliper). These pistons are used to prevent brake fluid flash if the brakes pads are severely overheated. The plastic pistons won't conduct heat into the caliper body and boil the brake fluid and fail the brake system at an inopportune time.
I feel your pain. I installed a started 15 months ago and it failed. NAPA has a life time warranty on the item but what a pain. Thank God I was home when it failed.
Replace your break line to, I run fleet management for a tow company with 12 trucks, 11 being a mix of F-450-550, and one 5500 Ram. I've come to find out that sometimes on going caliper issues is due to a defect with the break line going to the caliper.
I have a big C clamp that I fit over the caliper to squeeze the pistons back in. I usually turn one of the brake pads around backwards to make a bearing block. If I go to the trouble of taking the brakes apart I usually replace pads at the same time. The one pad looked 3/4 gone.
I bought oem Ford caliper from local Ford dealer only 35$ more for new one compared to aftermarket rebuild from parts store. Oem last 200k. I would recommend to buy FoMoCo parts. Thanks.
had the same issue with oreillys parts, for my F250 (made in 99 but is a 2000 year) they switched from metal pistons to the plastic and for 2 years of having this issue with the metal pistons I went with plastic, 4 years now zero issues.
+dilbot macguillacutty Don't forget the ultra classics like "Morning Forge Smoke" or "Evening Linseed Oil" or the combinations like "Wood glue over Bee's wax."
For Mrs. W.: As she was reading Jean-Martin Fortiers' The Market Gardner: JM has published a new video on the Living Web Farms youtube channel. It's part 10 in his Market Gardner series. He also has a series on Vermonts NOFAVT youtube channel.
Wow that's harsh for you guys. Would be nice if youtube/google would be willing to help you finance a fiberglass/optic internet connection to your place. I wonder wether it would by possible to join forces with you neighbours to build your own high speed fiberglass line towards the nearest town or village that is fiberglass connected. In Europe several rural communities have done this and still more are doing this.
+bob clark yea sometimes it's gonna happen. good ole Murphy is out for everyone. A lot of people don't crack the bleeder open when pushing the pistons back to make room for the pads. All that crud just gets pushed back into the system.
I had a Ram 350 that had a stuck slide on the left front caliper that I never even noticed, until the pad started squealing. It was only working on the piston side. New pads and some grease fixed it up. It was a new truck, but left over from the last-years models. I'm back to Fords, now.
Cody I think you need to replace the rubber line that hooks to the caliper take it off and see if you can push air thru it backwards this is typical on these to go bad the pressure will come thru but the rubber in the line makes a flap and keeps the fluid from returning!!!!
The left front caliper seized on my 92 Ranger. I put a new seal, piston, and dust boot in it, and it's been fine since. Never have dealt with a dual (or more) piston arrangement, so don't know how that would play. BTW, retraction is entirely due to the square cut seal, and of course the slight amount of runout on the rotor. The seal "tips", and pulls the piston back when you release the brakes.
The last time I remember seeing Alan was back when you were starting to write your book and getting photos taken. Is Alan involved in publishing? Since we've been seeing him on the last few videos, perhaps you could explain to the viewing audience who Alan is.
That sucks, I started using NAPA parts sense I started watching your channel. I just finished all the maintenance on my work van. Plugs and Wires, serp belt, the hateful A/C compressor stretch fit belt, front brakes, rear brakes, rear axle oil, transmission oil and filter.
+LOOPPEY ditto Looppy. Sometimes the hose will act as a one way check valve and apply pressure to the caliper but not release it. Hose replacement is cheap insurance.
I'm in 11th grade over at whittier tech in Haverhill, ma and I can't tell you how many brake jobs I've done on trucks that had the exact same brake issue as your F250. On many of them, the customer provided all the necessary parts and absolutely none of them were even from Napa. Most of them were from CAP and were more expensive than the better quality Napa parts
+martin hedberg Yes indeed, its hard to tell what you're getting for parts. Myself I'd push the pistons out and see what the failure cause was. Rebuilding calipers is so very easy, often unless the bleed screw snaps off I'll tear them down, clean and put them back together. I have seen where a hot pad burns the dust boot and dirt gets in, just need a new dust boot and clean up the piston.
I really like the older Fords (or any truck for that matter) that use the u-joints on the front axles on the 4WD models. My newer GMC uses CV joints on the front axle stubs for an independent front suspension. They suck to work on.
I had a similar problem once. The piston got corroded a little and was hard to move. I was able to disassemble the caliper and remove the rust with fine sand paper. Put it back together, bleed the line and worked perfect.
Cody - If you have repeated brake caliper failure, check the brake line for that wheel. Oftentimes, the brake line will deteriorate on the inside basically turning it into a one-way check valve so that the fluid will come from the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed but will not go back to the master cylinder after the pedal is released, thus resulting in a failed/locked caliper.
Some of the Ford trucks have specific inner pads and outer pads. If you mix them up, you experience what just happened. Some of inner pads have two ears that fit into the two slots in the pad holder, while the outer pads have one or no ears. Also, clean and lube the slider pins with Sil-Glyde silicone grease, sold by NAPA.
Did wranglerstar get a swordfighting partner in crime? I dont know if i like some guy involved in wranglerstar action. But i'm a selective viewer.(not doing axes or god stuff right now)
My front calipers always seem to sieze up my slide pins have some play and it kept pushing the slider crooked and keeping my brakes pressed on got new pins and its worked fine for a good year now all these damn superdutys seem to have brake issues
Check your flexable brake lines as well. sometimes they will break apart internally and creat a one way valve where you can apply the brakes but when you release them the fluid cant return and release the pressure. after a while damage to the caliper will happen and the brakes will lock up just how yours did. Just a little extra something to look at.
As always, I truly enjoyed today's video. Must admit that I did catch that Casey Neistat bug you shared some time ago :-) Any other creators that rank up there in your opinion?
Cody, The flexible rubber brake line can actually suck shut when the line gets to old and cause the caliper to lock on tight , I've experienced this. the vacuum from the master cylinder will collapse the rubber line , and cause the exact problem your having .
Tried to rebuild mine on 2003 ford f250 5.4 4x4 rears and i could not get new ford oem rubber boots ( i paid fortune for) back in, tried everything, dont have air and seen one with air that might work but by time i got all 4 back in i pretty much put a hole in every boot, so guess im just buying calipers and sticking them on AGAIn.
Cody I must say having you "neighbor" there and his questions really take your vids to the next level. When you have as much knowledge as you do it helps to have your "neighbor" there to ask though questions.
That's why I watch you Cody. I'm not always interested in the content, but every time I see that you have uploaded a video a smile always comes across my face. I think the way that you set up your videos and the way in which you deliver those videos is fantastic! Thanks for all the work you do to provide content to us!
+Kevin Ward Thank you Kevin.
Cody, here is a tip for you, having to deal with this currently on my personal 2002 F250. (had smoke pouring off one caliper while driving)
I found out out that the brake hoses between the caliper and metal line go bad frequently and work like a check valve preventing the caliper from releasing.
replace those hoses (about $30 ea) and you should eliminate the "cause" of the problem. (might also be an idea to replace the other rubber hoses)
also check your brake fluid, if you see any discoloration (green = agae brown/golden = burnt fluid [should be clear]) flush the fluid until clear & re-bleed the system.
I've rebuilt F250 calipers before, back in the day, and you just need a hone and a rebuild kit and they work great. It''s just an O ring and a cylinder in the bore of the caliper.. On a dual piston setup, it's just 2 of them. The only reason you need a new caliper is if you bugger up the bore, or the bleeder valve gets snapped off or you buggered up the slides... :) Great vids Cody and Mrs W. :)
you know what man ive been watching your videos for a long time now i i could go on forever about how they have changed my life life. but i want to tell you a short story. i drink alot of soda ha. and well one day i was bleeding my brakes... and i bled them into a coke can. i got thirsty so i went to take a long swig... and i ended up with a mouthful of brake fluid. so long story short, my top tip is to bleed in to a container that you wont mistake as a beverage haha. keep it up cody and thank you.
+Andes Horne yuck! oops.
+Wranglerstar... Drinking brake fluid... Man , that reminds me of an incident many years ago , at a friends place enjoying some cold beer and listening to some tunes while sitting at a dimly lit Bar in the basement . There were smokers who used an unfinished beer for an ashtray ....... That tasted ..... like an ashtray would ..... and yes , it was a Bummer .
Swallowing even a small amount of brake fluid can be fatal.
Luckily I didn't swallow any! And of course the actual coke I meant to drink was an arm's length away so I rinsed my mouth with that
Yes, you were lucky. We learned how dangerous it is when my grandson, about 2 years old at the time, took a drink out of a cup containing break fluid. Apparently, it tasted so bad he only took one swallow. He was hospitalized for about a day, and that is when we learned how fatal it can be. Scary stuff.
Cody, as far as parts pricing go, yes the dealership is usually going to be more expensive, but after working at a Ford dealer for for several years both in parts and service, they are not the most expensive all the time. Just remember when you go to or call a dealer to have your VIN handy, where I worked they only needed the last 8 digits. Also when brakes are seized up make sure to double check your slide pins to make sure thats not what is causing the problem. And there probably no go way to explain this without being there in person, but you can depress the piston without unbolting it, using a pry bar. Keep up with the great videos.
going way back in the wranglerstar playlist, but the original brake video motivated me to do some more work on my own truck. plus loving tim in the videos. keep up the good work
Between my 2 friends and my self I have seen 4-6 sets of "locked up" calipers. One on a 2003 Excursion, several on a 2007 F250 (rear) and several on my 2007 Fusion (rear).
My theory is the slide/guide pins are sticking, despite being well lubricated. One axle set that I replaced, new pins would NOT fir the existing holes in the caliper until I actually drilled the holes over sized.
The last set of rear pads I installed on my Fusion lasted less than 12 months ! These were top quality, name brand, ceramic pads.
If you have a problem with a Ford caliper, I now recommend replacing BOTH the caliper and the bracket with re-manufactured units. These come as one sub-assembly including new pre-lubed slide/guide pins and new rubber "boots" for the pins.
Rebuilt calipers and bracket for your truck from Rock Auto are about $101 with a $56 "core" charge.
I've had some reman callipers do this to me. I rebuild my own now. Its super easy, cheap, and doesn't take much longer at all.
I rebuilt my calipers on my 01 F350. Also replaced the ball joints (using your video for a guide). That was 2 or 3 yrs ago now. I used EBC rotors and brake pads. Couldn't be more satisfied with them. My truck has 240k and has the 7.3 Diesel in it.
Cody, you made a comment about content.. I think you are very correct. I love your passion for God and family. I have subbed to your channel since back when it was Wranglerbarn... And your DIY channel... It is more about your passion and heart than the topics.. However because of you.. I now own a ton of hand axes, bits and braces, planes, and etc. so your heart has helped show me a new world of things I might not have looked at.. Thank you
Thanks for the repair videos I replaced the ball joints on my f250 your video made it a lot easier going through the steps to do it properly thanks again
Cody I read someone commented that you might have a bad brake line. I had a Ford truck once that my brakes did like your brake. It took sometime to figure out that I had a bad brake line. I was told by Ford that they have a problem with the lining of the flexible brake line breaking down and it creates a flap like a valve. I changed out the flexible line and never had that problem again. Best of luck getting your truck back up and running.
A mechanic put on a Napa one 7 months ago in my welding rig . Just yesterday I had to pinch the brake line off with vise grips to make it home. Holy was that rotor hot . Anyway After pulling off the wheel the pistons were evenly distributed. The sliders didn’t have any grease on them. I cleaned off all the dirt with a small wire brush then put on the orange grease. Now she rolls smoothly . I fixed it . Costed me 50 cents.
in my 30 plus years of working on cars I've seen a vast change in parts quality it doesn't matter if you buy Napa O'Reilly Auto Zone or CARQUEST they're all the same parts anymore just in different boxes
Cody like you said in the video, im personally dont have an interest in the content you have on your channel, but i admire your passion, and thats why im subscribed.
+Ibtihaj Khan Thank you.
Love the videos with Allen, keep smiling comin!
Are you going to replace the leaf springs? They seem to have a negative arch
Keeping caliper rebuild kits in the garage and knowing how to rebuild is one of my preps.
A Bummer only getting 6 months of use for that caliper . I can relate to the days of rebuilding the calipers, we stopped doing that as the time costs increased to the point were it was not worth the time to rebuild along with liability so exchange for a new one . I hope you have better luck with the next one .
Super duty's of this era have this problem all the time. I put some drilled and slotted rotors (I know sounds crazy) on mine and never had a problem since. Seems that the truck is so heavy that too much heat gets transferred to the caliper and just destroys them over time. Really it all comes down to cooling.
Check for a collapsed rubber break line. Often the inner sleeve of the break line will let the high pressure force the fluid into the caliper, but won't let the return fluid return to the line system and the master cylinder. Happens often.
Looks like one piston compressed when the other one didn't this time though. And it won't compress with the line removed either:( Although the brake hose would be an easy fix:)
+Julian P. I've seen a few dodges with failed brake lines that'd lock a caliper up. But yeah, something happened to that caliper that cocked or galled the pistons.
+Julian P.
Agreed Julian. But my experience has been once the brake line is off the caliper releases. It didn't in this case. I've run into that problem a couple of times. First was on a big Chevy powered motor home with the brakes from HELL. Unlike anything I'd ever worked on. But I've since seen it on my Ford pick-up and a friends Chevy pick-up. I'm told moisture in the fluid system is to blame. It causes the rubber to swell up internally and hydraulic pressure will force fluid through the system, but of course it can't return. I'm no mechanic though. Just work on my own stuff. And friends. These online tutorials have helped me out more than once. There are things I'd STILL be working on without TH-cam.
I'm just concerned that in the removal of the caliper is when the piston was forced into a bind and not prior. Normally when let sit for a while or over night the pressure can get back though the collapsed line. In either case I'd replace the flex line at the same time I replaced the caliper. Not that a reman caliper couldn't be bad.
Great video! The replies are all helpful as well...thanks!
I've had so many NAPA calipers seize that I would only buy one if there were no options. Couldn't get them warrantied either. Had a small fire from one, lots of smoke from another, others seized but dragged loosely enough to make it home.
Trying Auto Zone calipers this time since they're local and cheap. Raybestos Element3 are the only calipers I know of that are actually brand new. Everything else, even calipers from Ford dealerships, are remanufactured.
Ive had em all Ford, chevy and now a dodge. I don't dare talk crap about any of them. They all have issues and good qualities.
WindersRanger delusional, it's domestic junk
@@TheGuruStud yeah and Hondas have junk transmission BMW has engine issues Subaru has head gaskets. I thought like u once and found they ain't no better.but I've owned 1000s of cars so I know little more than most
did you change the brake hose? brake hoses can collapse from the inside and cause the same symptoms as a stuck caliper.
as he said in the video while he was compressing the piston, the bore on the one cylinder in the caliper is messed up. The piston should never get hung up while trying to compress it
+Derrick K ahhh
Cody, I got to tell you...even videos like this are very enjoyable for me. Keep it up.
Funny story for ya, my brother who is an mechanic for twenty plus years. Used to tell me the same thing about levels of parts and to never buy anything that isn't at least Napa. One day my dodge ram clutch went out and I didn't have the money to buy one from Napa since they wanted twice what shucks (O'Reilly) wanted. All the way to the parts store and back he's telling that only a Luke clutch is the they to go and you can only get from Napa. So we get home and pull the trany and I open the box the new clutch came in and guess what was stamped right on the clutch, Luke.
Trust me when I say that it doesn't matter because there isn't that many people making parts anymore. One goes to one store and the other good to a different store.
Same thing happened when I was working at radio shack. Cleaning the receivers and I look down in the vents and on a radio shack stamped unit I saw on big letters Pioneer.
Save your money my groomed
friend.
Just friend not groomed, darn smart phone :-)
+kantill what was?
+KingLeonidasll sorry I'm not following what you're asking.
oh shoot, my apologies, the 'show more' button didn't show up and only part of your comment appeared. It cut off right at 'guess what was' I was just getting interested and it stopped haha
+KingLeonidasll No problem :-)
My 2005 F350 used to hang up several times a year, and I took it to a private mechanic, and he said it was the cheap grease the dealer kept putting in there. He used a grease with never seize in it and I never had a problem with the brakes hanging up again. The dealer tried to tell me it was fairly normal if you didn't have the brakes serviced every year. I thought that was outrageous.
Hey Cody. I know this has nothing to do with the video but why is the bar in your chainsaw always upside down? Do you swap it back and forth for ware?
Enjoying the humor and lightheartedness
Hey Cody, I have been fighting this problem since my 06 SuperDuty was new. The Issue is that the pistons are made not from Metal which expands at a similar rate to the caliper, but from a phenolic compound that expands more than the bores in which they reside. Thus they seize in position after hard breaking, causing more drag, more heat, super hot seized brakes./ The reason for the change away from metal was to prevent heat transfer from the pad through the piston into the brake fluid which causes brake fade due to boiling. Ford was sued over this! I have often thought about reducing the diameter of the piston thus increasing clearance, but I am just too busy. I have never experiences stuck guide pins. So there you are.....send me a nice axe, Pete
Same problem with my Chevy, phenolic caliper pistons suck! I forced the piston out and it had swelled so much that it wouldn't fit back into the bore even without the seal!!!
Same issue here on my f350, four sets of calipers in 5 years due to these shitty phenolic parts. (never a pin issue for me anyway)
Thank You, Ran into this issue with my 2k E250 I will be getting Calipers tomorrow.
I really enjoy your quality axe videos and overall really enjoy all of you videos and your channel
Did Napa sell you that caliper painted black like that or did you paint it?
When I replaced front caliper for F350, I was hopping to get either painted or zinc plated one, but could not find any in local stores. Rusted right away on first rain. At least calipers are not visible with stock wheel.
I could have painted myself, but just too much trouble. Wanted to get the job done right away.
BTW, I ended up getting caliper, rotor, and break pads from Advance Auto Parts and caliper locked up after just 4 months. Advance Auto Part did replace all of those under warranty, but lost a day of job. :(
You would think, bring a heavy goods mechanic in the U.K., I wouldn't want to watch anything about my trade/work. But watching your channel is always fun and educational to others. I struggle explaining what I'm doing to our apprentices. I wish I had your talent for explaining what you do when you work
c-clamps work great at compressing calipers too. You can even do it while there still mounted on the vehicle.
what's with letting all the brake fluid just run out when you took off the line?
and out of the caliper. all over the place!
+Simon Crabb Well Cody don't know that brakefluid is a chemical aggressive fluid that will eat your paint and more.
+Willem Streutgers err, he said in the video exactly that
+Simon Crabb I soak it up with sawdust and burn it in my shop wood stove. What's the issue?
+Wranglerstar just surprised me...
Brake lines are bad to collapse on the inside of the brake lines going into the caliper. Try and open the bleed valve and see if the brakes release if so a brake line is your problem if not it's your caliper
Wouldn't both pistons be stuck then ? I'm working on mine right now.
Hi there Mr. W... have you looked that the proportioning valve . I had a jeep that did the same thing. The problem continued until I replaced it ... it's a expensive part but if you keep killing calipers you may want to consider replacing it.
Another Way-to-go for Mrs. W :-) That's the way to get it off! Brute force! We live in a throw-away society, MOST people if it stops working, throw it away and buy a new one. I am guilty in a way our 7year old washing machine bearings went, and we could not get all the parts to repair it, so we finally opted to get a new one with a warranty. AND Mrs B LOVES IT! I spins REALLY fast, and when the cloths come out the are nearly dry! And living it wet Ireland, with high humidity, that is in my oppinion, a very good thing! Hope the follow-up video is just waiting for me, as the suspense is just killing me! LOL! :-D
great video cody
I hope you do more videos with your neighbor! he seems like a cool guy!
I agree with what you were saying about content not mattering. I mean I have no interest in how to fix F250 brakes, but I still clicked almost immediately.
I'm in management at Autozone down here in Arizona and that's one of those deals where if that happened, I'd make sure you got new pads and a rotor as well at no charge, parts shouldn't fail like that when they are so new...
I have given up on parts stores and only buy parts online unless it's an emergency. The stuff they sell is absolute garbage and totally overpriced. NAPA is the only major one I know of that's still kind of decent but even their store branded stuff is going down in quality.
+27dcx agree'd, I'd trust a highly rated amazon part before a napa part nowadays.
got that right,i refuse to get robbed by the local parts store!
Lol napa is the worst and most overpriced of the bunch 😁 especially their calipers
@@foxbodyguyeightyeight3672 Yeah. a lot changes in four years.
@@27dcx I didn't even pay attention to the time stamp lol
Cody, take a pic of your receipts. Easy peaszy. You can even label and organize them if you want
Very timely, I have a sticky caliper on my 04 250 right now, and need to fix it, along with my locking hubs. Want to do a video on that next Cody?
This is the content I subscribe for. And to me, content does matter.
If I vehicle pulls to a direction, is it the opposite side caliper that is sticking ? Pulling to left means Right caliper issue ?
Iv noticed you wearing your carhartt a lot lately do you think you could do a review on, that would be great.
Thanks wranglerstar for making these awesome video's, I really look up to you!
Did you try rebooting it?
I like the new videos with the new friend. Although I don't think I remember his name if it was ever said.
Great video thanks for all your help!
So the repair of a Ford Super Duty stuck brake caliper is to go to NAPA. I was thinking you found some trick way to prevent the composite pistons from sticking in the caliper bore. This version of brake calipers used in late model Ford Super Duty trucks are notorious for sticking. An on the road quick fix is to use a large hammer on the back of the caliper. Give the caliper body several hard shots and most of the time the stuck piston will slip back in the bore. Most of the opinions follow the composite plastic pistons (2/ caliper). These pistons are used to prevent brake fluid flash if the brakes pads are severely overheated. The plastic pistons won't conduct heat into the caliper body and boil the brake fluid and fail the brake system at an inopportune time.
I feel your pain. I installed a started 15 months ago and it failed. NAPA has a life time warranty on the item but what a pain. Thank God I was home when it failed.
Replace your break line to, I run fleet management for a tow company with 12 trucks, 11 being a mix of F-450-550, and one 5500 Ram. I've come to find out that sometimes on going caliper issues is due to a defect with the break line going to the caliper.
I have a big C clamp that I fit over the caliper to squeeze the pistons back in. I usually turn one of the brake pads around backwards to make a bearing block. If I go to the trouble of taking the brakes apart I usually replace pads at the same time. The one pad looked 3/4 gone.
I bought oem Ford caliper from local Ford dealer only 35$ more for new one compared to aftermarket rebuild from parts store. Oem last 200k. I would recommend to buy FoMoCo parts. Thanks.
Hey WS, should I get a Haines manual for my 2005 f-350? Or is there a factory T.O. That you'd recommend.
had the same issue with oreillys parts, for my F250 (made in 99 but is a 2000 year) they switched from metal pistons to the plastic and for 2 years of having this issue with the metal pistons I went with plastic, 4 years now zero issues.
great info. we have a Ford F250. receipts fade fast. NAPA and Autozone keep it in the computer.
Good Stuff, Great Help, Good Tips 👍Thanks!
What brand breaker bar is that? I've been looking for a big one like that.
What year is your truck?
Lots of times this is caused by collapsed rubber hose. when you do a major brake job replace those flexible brake lines
Yepp👍
...try new 'wet clutch' cologne by wranglerstar! other scents could include : sawdust, pine, cedar, 2 stroke oil etc. could be a big seller! lol
+dilbot macguillacutty
Don't forget the ultra classics like "Morning Forge Smoke" or "Evening Linseed Oil" or the combinations like "Wood glue over Bee's wax."
For Mrs. W.:
As she was reading Jean-Martin Fortiers' The Market Gardner:
JM has published a new video on the Living Web Farms youtube channel. It's part 10 in his Market Gardner series.
He also has a series on Vermonts NOFAVT youtube channel.
+J. Verheulst Thanks. We are out of internet for the rest of the month (data cap) so will look when we have more...
Wow that's harsh for you guys. Would be nice if youtube/google would be willing to help you finance a fiberglass/optic internet connection to your place.
I wonder wether it would by possible to join forces with you neighbours to build your own high speed fiberglass line towards the nearest town or village that is fiberglass connected.
In Europe several rural communities have done this and still more are doing this.
Did not see it budge on the slide bolts through any of that prying... otherwise a flap in the flex line... ?
it is fixed type of Disc brake caliper ???
might wanna lube those slide pins. You replace calipers ever brake job?
+MasterTech58 every superduty i have had .clean lube slide pins.bout once a year .if not they stick get hot clamp tighter.
+bob clark to fix prob .i have 92 f250 with wedges instead of bolts
+bob clark yea I service several fleets with these trucks clean and lube pins with the brake job. Never had a problem
had one lock up.made me mad drove home anyway melted balljoint rubbers off..cleaned pins anti seize perfect.
+bob clark yea sometimes it's gonna happen. good ole Murphy is out for everyone. A lot of people don't crack the bleeder open when pushing the pistons back to make room for the pads. All that crud just gets pushed back into the system.
Did you check the slide pins?
I had a Ram 350 that had a stuck slide on the left front caliper that I never even noticed, until the pad started squealing. It was only working on the piston side. New pads and some grease fixed it up. It was a new truck, but left over from the last-years models. I'm back to Fords, now.
Cody I think you need to replace the rubber line that hooks to the caliper take it off and see if you can push air thru it backwards this is typical on these to go bad the pressure will come thru but the rubber in the line makes a flap and keeps the fluid from returning!!!!
The left front caliper seized on my 92 Ranger. I put a new seal, piston, and dust boot in it, and it's been fine since. Never have dealt with a dual (or more) piston arrangement, so don't know how that would play.
BTW, retraction is entirely due to the square cut seal, and of course the slight amount of runout on the rotor. The seal "tips", and pulls the piston back when you release the brakes.
Lang Brake Caliper press on Amazon. Blue Point makes them too. If you do brakes a lot it will make your life easy.
The last time I remember seeing Alan was back when you were starting to write your book and getting photos taken. Is Alan involved in publishing? Since we've been seeing him on the last few videos, perhaps you could explain to the viewing audience who Alan is.
That sucks, I started using NAPA parts sense I started watching your channel. I just finished all the maintenance on my work van.
Plugs and Wires, serp belt, the hateful A/C compressor stretch fit belt, front brakes, rear brakes, rear axle oil, transmission oil and filter.
Cody often over looked are the rubber hoses that do cause problems they swell shut and they degrade passing particulates into the calipers.
+LOOPPEY ditto Looppy. Sometimes the hose will act as a one way check valve and apply pressure to the caliper but not release it. Hose replacement is cheap insurance.
No follow up ? Any ideas on what caused the problem ?
This is very helpful the brake caliper on my 1997 Ford F350 just got stuck.
I'm in 11th grade over at whittier tech in Haverhill, ma and I can't tell you how many brake jobs I've done on trucks that had the exact same brake issue as your F250. On many of them, the customer provided all the necessary parts and absolutely none of them were even from Napa. Most of them were from CAP and were more expensive than the better quality Napa parts
Probably would be smart to add that I am in the automotive shop course at Whittier Tech
+martin hedberg Yes indeed, its hard to tell what you're getting for parts. Myself I'd push the pistons out and see what the failure cause was. Rebuilding calipers is so very easy, often unless the bleed screw snaps off I'll tear them down, clean and put them back together. I have seen where a hot pad burns the dust boot and dirt gets in, just need a new dust boot and clean up the piston.
new hoses!!!!!!! Just did new front brakes on my excursion and forgot those and had major intermittent pulling.... new hoses and all is good.
I really like the older Fords (or any truck for that matter) that use the u-joints on the front axles on the 4WD models. My newer GMC uses CV joints on the front axle stubs for an independent front suspension. They suck to work on.
I had a similar problem once. The piston got corroded a little and was hard to move. I was able to disassemble the caliper and remove the rust with fine sand paper. Put it back together, bleed the line and worked perfect.
Is the fix going to NAPA for a return??????
Cody - If you have repeated brake caliper failure, check the brake line for that wheel. Oftentimes, the brake line will deteriorate on the inside basically turning it into a one-way check valve so that the fluid will come from the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed but will not go back to the master cylinder after the pedal is released, thus resulting in a failed/locked caliper.
thanks i think that is whats happen to mind
F250 truck with F350 axles and springs, nice!!!
Some of the Ford trucks have specific inner pads and outer pads. If you mix them up, you experience what just happened. Some of inner pads have two ears that fit into the two slots in the pad holder, while the outer pads have one or no ears. Also, clean and lube the slider pins with Sil-Glyde silicone grease, sold by NAPA.
Did wranglerstar get a swordfighting partner in crime? I dont know if i like some guy involved in wranglerstar action. But i'm a selective viewer.(not doing axes or god stuff right now)
+James Hansen That's Alan
so your local napa do not have you listed in there computer?
i was laughing watching break fluid cover floor! Great video Cody!
+Got2BGreat Gamer I was shaking the head, saying WTF?
My front calipers always seem to sieze up my slide pins have some play and it kept pushing the slider crooked and keeping my brakes pressed on got new pins and its worked fine for a good year now all these damn superdutys seem to have brake issues
Check your flexable brake lines as well. sometimes they will break apart internally and creat a one way valve where you can apply the brakes but when you release them the fluid cant return and release the pressure. after a while damage to the caliper will happen and the brakes will lock up just how yours did. Just a little extra something to look at.
Isn't brake fluid really corrosive
As always, I truly enjoyed today's video. Must admit that I did catch that Casey Neistat bug you shared some time ago :-) Any other creators that rank up there in your opinion?
Thank you for the video!
Cody, The flexible rubber brake line can actually suck shut when the line gets to old and cause the caliper to lock on tight , I've experienced this. the vacuum from the master cylinder will collapse the rubber line , and cause the exact problem your having .
Great video and what is your name
+tsx3214 thanks
Tried to rebuild mine on 2003 ford f250 5.4 4x4 rears and i could not get new ford oem rubber boots ( i paid fortune for) back in, tried everything, dont have air and seen one with air that might work but by time i got all 4 back in i pretty much put a hole in every boot, so guess im just buying calipers and sticking them on AGAIn.