You have come a long way since the dragon, and this old truck is right for you. It has the patina you like, and you can put a weathered logo on the doors for your channel to match. These are very simple wired trucks so making everything work is not too hard. I would also make sure the brake proportioning valve is not stuck while the engine is out. Might want to clean out the vent tube on the diff. so you won't lose you pinon seal. Good video!
please don't go down that cheeseball fake patina graphics on the door -as a 30+plus year graphic designer, it never works. The truck is original great cosmetic-wise as is
Friend of mine has an old 410 Merc Super Marauder, circa 1965. He had it in a 70's Ford 4x4. Its just taking up space in his garage. He tried to sell it (C6 trans too), but nobody around here builds old Fords. He says I can have it!
I’m a FE guy. That’s about all my shop does. Great engines. But that engine has been apart before. The cam plug on the back was dented from a hammer and the timing chain wasn’t a factory chain. And a felpro gasket on the oil pan
@@frizzellracing Ford switched to the Philips cam thrust plate bolts sometime in the mid 1960's. I have torn apart two 1964 Ford 352's that had the Allen head bolts and both were known original engines that were never apart before. Another giveaway it was apart was the blue paint in the bellhousing area.
@@MattsRageFitGarageevery FE I have & have taken apart have all been large number 3 Philips head bolts on the cam plate. I have FEs from 65 to 72 & all years invetween. I have never had one with allen head bolts.
@@jesseduke694 Both 1964 352's I've torn down had the Allen bolts. The rest have been #4 pozidriv. Look close, they aren't Philips with the lines stamped in them. #4 Philips fits them well enough. #3 Philips fits but not correct.
Excellent video CT :) , yes say 360 FE from 1968 Ford F250 pickup definitely had better days on motor also thick sludge plus all when took apart told story and shock me too ! Also tiime gears are metal in 1975 when replacing on stamp from dealer and certain aftermarket parts used nylon plastic ones ! Also blue Torque Converter is factory Ford yes and looking forward more videos too soon CT also be interesting to see!
I agree....I've been working on them for some time. This one is going to be running and driving in a few weeks if all goes well. Engine is 90% complete. Just need a few more bits, do the brakes, fuel system, tires etc...should be ready to drive soon! Stay tuned! =)
Great video! You can not tell if oil is good by looking. Though you will hear people say "the oil looks good" all the time. You feel it. Feeling for gritty material..
@@CTmoog im not sure yet. Someone came to look at it and they want it whole to live in because it has 2 new air conditioners. New furnace. New refrigerator. 6 New tires. New upholstery and carpet and a 6.5kw onan generator with low run time. I thought about selling the motor and trans because I found a nice 36ft 5th wheel and I planned on putting all the new appliances in the 5th wheel and I have someone who wants the tires. They are regroovable with less than 150 mines. Its a decent motorhome and everything works but I really want a 5th wheel with slide out. I will get back to you as soon as I find out if this guy is going to buy it. What are you looking to pay for the motor and trans. Its turn key and still in the motorhome so I can send video of it running. And pic of odometer to show miles.
Wow , what a hood ! Big enough to build a family home out of that 😊 The engine looks like submerged too. And this slime in it 😯 But you and Darrin gonna get this baby on the road again . 👍
Do you own a engine stand ? is this the first time you ever pulled a engine ? What is your plan for this truck and engine ,this is my first time visiting your channel ,get rid of that pan of oil before you drop something big in it, love the oil pan drop, the sludge is from never changing the oil just adding to it when it's low and the addition of water makes for that slop ,I've done this a hundred times or more and your bringing tears to my eyes
The block, heads, crank and rods went to the machine shop to be cleaned and checked for assembly. I ordered bearings, seals, rings, and some stuff from Edelbrock. It should be ready to reinstall next week if all goes well. Stay tuned!
Perhaps you’ve already commented on the following. If so, I missed it. Will we see the completion of the VW bug anytime soon? Thanks. Your videos are quite enjoyable.
Listen to Darren and don’t take it apart. And listen to your brother too. Sounds like they both have good advice. Headers are cheap and a good upgrade.
About 5 + years ago I bought a 1969 ford f-250 360 auto for 800 bucks. After adding new gas & a battery it started right up and drove it home. But sadly a year or 2 later i sold it because of lack of knowledge of how fix it but also because of extensive rust damage. Anyway i sold it for 1200 buck. But know that I know more I almost literally wanted to rip my leg off and kick my ass. Anyways thanks for keeping this truck from the scrap yard 👍👍.
Nice job. I love these kind of videos. An electric ratchet it really nice and they're about $20. They may not get everything to break free but they're great at getting bolts out once loosened. So much for Fleetwood Mac saying "You would never break the chain"
That motors probably going to need at least one new sleeve. You'd be surprised what else can be cleaned up though. For future reference, if a motor's stuck pop the valve covers off first. If you see push rods that look like these in this engine, don't waste the PB, mystery or time. Plus, even if you do manage to get it unstuck the quickest way you'd know if a valve is stuck closed is by removing the covers so they'd have to come off eventually anyway. I personally use a bore camera to look into the spark plug holes to check cylinder wall and piston condition.
Hi CT, reminds me of when I was restoring mustangs with ford engines. They were easy to pull the motor and tranny together. I had a 67 coupe I was working on and the 289 was toast and most came in a box when I towed the car home from a farm pasture. I had two 70 mustangs too and one was a rust bucket and decided to scrap it but took all the good parts off to sell. The 302 was good so put it in the 289 with the right motor mounts. Bolted right up to the tranny and went to start it only to find all the wiring to the ignition was burned up. Found another one to pull out of a 68 for 15 bucks. Still didn't start till I realized i forgot to plug the neutral safety switch to the tranny. Vroom Vroom. 302 in a light car like that was so cool and sounded great with a new set of dual pipes.
Honestly CT, I could care less what you are working on…..or if you ever finish….sell it and move on….whatever. This channel is fun because you are a quirky and interesting “friend” with a great attitude…..plus I get my garage fix.
Wow I really appreciate that! I love working on all types of cars and trucks and filming it for you guys! It really makes me happy that you enjoy it! thank you! =)
At approximately 5:25... that was a factory ID tag for the engine. It'll have some basic stats stamped into it for the engine including the cubic inch rating, unless of course, the engine was modified after it left the factory or someone swapped out the tag to fool someone else. At approximately 17:15... automatic transmissions use a flexplate. Manual transmissions use a flywheel. What's the difference? By definition, a flywheel always possesses a friction surface for a clutch assembly. A Flexplate does not. The flexplate traditionally has no use for a friction surface. It should be noted however, on some modern designs, there is a friction surface built into a flexplate that is used for a parking brake. I don't know of any domestic built vehicle that uses this setup but I have spotted it in some foreign built vehicles over the last 20-30 years. I'll also note that at least on some of the Chevy Corvettes, GM designed some of the transmissions to incorporate a friction disc at the tailshaft end of the transmission for a parking brake as well. However, none of them should be confused with a standard use clutch system designed to shift gears. As for the teeth at the ring gear, what I saw was typical for a 50+ year old vehicle. The engagement gear at the Bendix on the starter will take some damage from smacking into the teeth at the ring gear over time and use as it's designed to... as it's supposed to be softer... but so will the ring gear even though the metal in the ring gear is supposed to be harder via heat treatment. What doesn't help is that unfortunately, engines tend to stop in the same couple of places when we shut them off at the key. The translation on that is the gears mesh in the same places on startup localizing the wear on the teeth in the same couple of places. As others have mentioned, an easy fix is possible if the actual ring gear can be removed from a flywheel or a flexplate via heat. All you need to do is carefully use a fine tip on a torch and heat the gear until it expands enough to be removed. Then you can reverse the gear or rotate it about 30-45 degrees on the original axis and reinstall it. Warning: be careful if you R & R a ring gear. DO NOT DROP THEM. If you do, it may crack or break when it hits the concrete thus rendering it unusable. My best advice is to not only mark the original location of the ring gear so you know where to reinstall it, make sure that you're fully ready to handle hot metal when you heat it up. I shouldn't need to say it but I will anyway - very thick and heavy leather gloves are your friend on a R & R. Peace & good vibes! - Max Giganteum
Great job man sad to see that engine was a goner but can't wait to see it up and running. You could always call her Big red lol up to you keep up the great work
Can probably take a torch and go round and round on that flexplate starter ring - it will pop off - they're usually just press fit on there... you could order a new one or probably just flip that one backwards for fresh tooth engagement. There's videos on getting them to fit back on - torching it.
Good morning here in Brazil, good evening, the work is top-notch, congratulations on your work, we are enjoying this work of creating the F100 truck, right, great, a hug from Lau Tapei
When you drained the oil pan at the beginning of this, I knew what killed the engine. They weren't keeping up with the oil changes in this motor over the years. When you dropped the pan, it was on full display. They would run the motor and simply add oil as it burned it up and rarely changed the filter. You should use an engine stand, I was nervous watching you work on that motor while it's suspended by a chain. An investment in your safety.
Just thinking, you may want to take the AC compressor off entirely next time so you dont lose a charge. I know this one didnt have anything in it but i was thinking in the future. I know some Fords you actually had to discharge and remove the lines and the compressor as well. I know gm you can pretty much just lean the compressor over to the side while leaving it charged up. Again just some fyi info for you. Love working on the old stuff, so much easier.
When I pulled the engine on my 79 dent side it was much easier to pull out with the transmission attached and separate them on the ground. I did a mild rebuild on an engine from a 67 Fairlane GTA and put it in there attached to the transmission already. A 390 pops right in.
Believe the 360 and 390 use the same block ! Run good but fuel milage is horrible ! Friend put a MSD capacitive discharge ignition and the engine with mild cam would start and run 1000% better ! Much hotter spark means easy starting during winter .
You can do a lot with a 360/390 block from what I've heard. I'm doing a mild build, upgrading the intake, carb & distributor from Edelbrock. Should be a nice engine with better than factory performance for a farm truck.
Some people have already commented on the best place to start on a tear down like this is with a trip to the pressure washer. As bad as that looks, chances are that it can be reconditioned back to a running engine. Won't know until you get it to a reputable machine shop that can evaluate its condition. Everything is fixable, just takes $$$.
460 won’t match his transmission but I’m surprised he didn’t pull trans at the same time anyway. I’d find a running 390 or rebuild your 360 to a 390 and you’ll be a world ahead
I had 2 fwd Truck both 4speed s the only difference was 460 in one 390 in the other the 390 would out pull and out run the 460 s are guttless stock we fixed the 460 by adding 429 cam & timing chain&gears ford retarded the valve timing on the 460 for emissions.
The way that piston is sitting almost at the deck, paired with the double roller chain... makes me think it's a 390 convert. Weird that they wouldn't go 4v though.
Alot of the FE engine blocks have 352 cast into them. It dous not mean it's a 352. The 352 was discontinued in 67. It was replaced with the 360 in 68. However some of the 360 engine blocks continued to have 352 cast into them.
You should have put the engine on a stand for safe tear down…it’s a wonder you didn’t get hurt! Can’t keep running on dumb luck…one day it’ll run out. Skip the FE, get a 460 and drop in…done!
Definitely use a stout engine stand... absolutely. A 460, while powerful, is a gas hog. I'd go for a 302 or a 351W for general running around in a parts truck. Yes, I'd toss a number of aftermarket parts on both the 302 and 351W before installing them. Think long and hard before going to a 460, unless you really need a lot of pulling power, they aren't worth it. Of course, if you've got money to burn... you may not care about the poor gas mileage. - Max Giganteum
I believe. That the ring with the teeth can be taken off and flip around or just replace the ring itself don't know if its cheaper to buy a whole flex plate
I do believe that is a 352 not a 360. I am a little concern about all the times you said save this and reuse it. About the only thing I would reuse would be the block, crank, timing chain cover, and rods if they are ok after machining. New aluminum heads and intake, oil pump, cam with roller lifters, bearings, rings, timing chain set, freeze plus, water pump, balancer, alternator, power steering pump, hoses, plugs, wires, an HEI distributor, EFI throttle body, motor mounts, radiator, thermostat, and etc. Those cast iron heads would need a ton of machining, new valve train and probably harden valve seats installed and then they weight a tone, same with that 2 barrel cast iron intake.
I have another 360 block I pulled out the swamp dragon that I'm using on this build. I'm using the block, heads, crank and rods. I ordered an intake & carb from Edelbrock. Should be a nice better than factory build.
Water pump bearings wear out. Then the water pump doesn't pump enough causing overheating. Vice Grip Garage uses Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to loosen the engine.
Shot bearings in a water pump doesn't cause the pump to move less volume... what on earth ever gave you the idea that was true?!? Hello! A pump moves less coolant by volume because a belt is slipping, there is a lack of coolant in the system, there is a blockage somewhere in the system, the impeller is corroded away or there is an issue with the radiator. Bad bearings = leakage and/or noisy bearings. There is one other possibility though... a seized water pump. Peace & good vibes! - Max Giganteum
@@MaxGiganteum Go to a parts store and have them to pull a pump off the shelf. Grab the hub and turn it by hand. It'll turn slow. An old pump turns fast because it's slipping. Mechanics call it 'slipping'. The hub turns easy and it's not pushing water fast enough. It's like riding a bike in the easiest gear on a flat road. You pedal alot but don't go very far. Then, if you put it in 3rd gear, then you go further easier.
@@CarlWilliams-u3y You seriously need a dose of reality. The pump turns at the same speed whether it is new or has 200K miles on it given that the drive belt isn't slipping on the receptive pulley. The condition of the bearings is irrelevant. They can be optimal from new and feel snug or well worn in and freely spin with little effort. A new pump won't spin more slowly just because it's new. Given that the impeller is not damaged, the water pump will move the same volume of coolant whether the pump has zero, 50K, 100K, 500K or any other number of miles on it. The analogy of the bicycle is false. Why? You're literally changing the mechanical advantage you have by changing gears - this is impossible in a water pump! The pulley for the belt, the main shaft of the pump and the impeller are all locked together - they cannot be "adjusted" or "changed" or "switched" during normal operation except in a system that is designed for such to take place - something that is not found on a Ford built FE engine. Unless the drive belt is slipping or the shaft is seizing in the bearing (which can and will cause slippage at the drive belt) then the water pump will always spin at the same speed when new or old - that speed is the speed which it is driven based on the speed of the crankshaft. End of story! - Max Giganteum
@@CarlWilliams-u3y A parts store... are you on drugs? Expecting a skinflint at a parts store to actually know anything is like expecting Joe Biden to know where he is or what day of the week it is. Only a total fool would put any faith in anything either says... though I'd give high odds the parts store skinflint would prove to be more likely to get it right over Biden. The skinflint might actually push the correct buttons on the computer and get you what you need! Biden is so far gone, he cannot climb a flight of stairs or ride a bicycle without falling over!! You're in a comments section with a guy that has 55 years of experience. I'm a machinist/welder/fabricator/mechanic that went to college for machining technology and mechanical engineering. In my long working career, I've worked for a variety of engineering firms and the world's biggest airline. Ask yourself who it would be smarter to trust. Me or a nooblet that spends their day as a parts flunky for an auto parts chain?!? Better yet, apply yourself and test things out for yourself and see if what I stated previously is true. That's right, conduct your own real-life experiment using actual components and see what the results are. Do it and do it accurately, you'll find that what I stated is true. Enough said! - Max Giganteum
As bad as it may look... based on what I could see in the video, in may be possible to completely disassemble, fully clean and reassemble this engine and get it running using a complete gasket set and some new parts. There would be a few minimum things that would need to happen to pull this off. First, complete disassembly without damage to any main components. Removing the pistons from the bores is usually the most problematic thing to accomplish but I've seen as bad or worse than this engine be done with success. If I had to, I'd mechanically remove as much corrosion as practical then I'd use electrolysis to remove the rest, even if I had to hot tank the block then submerge the entire thing in an electrolysis tank. Next after disassembly? You'd have to revitalize each of the parts which equates to a full cleaning. After that? Inspect each part for damage - they'll either be able to be used or they won't, based on obvious damage. Next? Mic each part for being on size and being true. Any part that is bent or warped in such a way as to be unrepairable is scrap by default. Once all that is accomplished, it's a matter of the results. If this engine was rebuilt as suspected and has limited or little to no wear, it might be a matter of hot tanking the block then simply putting it back together using most of the same parts that came out of it including the bearings. If all the main components are good, there's no reason that reassembly cannot be accomplished with a successful, running engine being the result. Machining might not be necessary at all. Yes, there are a few tasks that may need to be done such as grinding the valves and valve seats. The bores may need a super light hone to allow new rings to seat. Speaking of new rings, some parts may need to be replaced such as the piston rings, some or all of the valves and the valve springs. A new, complete gasket set is mandatory and many folks might elect to go with all new bearings even if the condition of the prior bearing set is good. Some folks may replace the oil pump even if the old unit checks out. A new timing set is mandatory as are a set of core plugs and most likely the water pump but that depends on condition - it might check out. Some of us could rebuild it though, so to me, that's a moot point. I'd get it to go either way. A new fuel pump is mandatory even if the old unit works - never trust the internal diaphragm unless it's replaced and you prove that out. What else? You'll need to go through the carb, alternator and distributor. After that? You should have an engine that can be reassembled and be made to run. I'm not including the radiator at this point but that too can be tested. Yes, there are some other parts that may be needed... parts for the distributor and carb or some soft parts like hoses and filters. Note that I wouldn't recommend just putting this engine back together with the current parts even if they all check out. I'm merely stating that such a thing might be possible. If the engine were mine, I would not only make the effort to find out the facts but I'd take the opportunity to make many modifications to gain more power and efficiency from it if it were viable. At this point, all I'm considering are the possibilities, that is all. The main thing I'm looking at is that an engine may look like a nightmare... but that doesn't mean it is. Sometimes, all you need to do is disassemble, clean and reassemble. Peace & good vibes to all! - Max Giganteum
I would find a later truck or pu that has 351 something and buy the thing. Should be some around. A wreck maybe and have a later engine and trans that has overdrive and just as much power or more.
Damn, Mr. CT, this was a disgustingly sludgy oil... It didn't even want to run.. Interesting, but it seemed, when you removed, even the heads were bent.. Or is it just optical illusion? Mm, not much more to do with that engine without a major rebuild to salvage the salvageable. It's a good thing to learn, experience new situations and discover stuff.. or even play some forensic style research. Keep going, projects are waiting for you.. 😉
Is this the beginning of another CT kit, or will this be the one that gets finished???? Who cares I go to your channel to learn how to dismantle different kinds of cars and trucks trucks..KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
I’ve got a story worse than the motor you have I had a 78 f150 and my engine went bad so my late father and went to a wrecking yard and bought a motor that we didn’t have them start so we got it all setup and got it running the lifters wouldn’t stop tapping so we turned it off and took off valve covers and there was a half inch of slug on top of the heads so we decided to remove the oil pan and it was two inches of slug so we had to clean the whole engine and then it ran good after all that
You have come a long way since the dragon, and this old truck is right for you. It has the patina you like, and you can put a weathered logo on the doors for your channel to match. These are very simple wired trucks so making everything work is not too hard. I would also make sure the brake proportioning valve is not stuck while the engine is out. Might want to clean out the vent tube on the diff. so you won't lose you pinon seal. Good video!
Thanks man! 👍 I know you've been here through it all! I appreciate the advice! Logo would be cool! =)
please don't go down that cheeseball fake patina graphics on the door -as a 30+plus year graphic designer, it never works. The truck is original great cosmetic-wise as is
@@CTmooghey speaking of the dragon can you give us an update on her it’s been way too long
I was a mechanic for 40 yrs I love watching novices fumble through and learn as they go 👍
Thank you! It is fun to learn new things even if you mess up along the way! =)
Lol. I've been a mechanic for close to 50 years and I'm right with you there. Rookie mistakes make for good memories of when we started.😂
Finally some real ford content. These old FE engines has so much potential for some real horsepower and torque. Very underrated engine.
Thanks man! This one is going to be pretty sweet with some Edelbrock upgrades.
same opinion
Friend of mine has an old 410 Merc Super Marauder, circa 1965. He had it in a 70's Ford 4x4. Its just taking up space in his garage. He tried to sell it (C6 trans too), but nobody around here builds old Fords. He says I can have it!
Ran when parked, only needs an oil change 😂
HAHA! 38,000 original miles.....one owner, garage kept! haha! =)
Yeah ,good one!
I’m a FE guy. That’s about all my shop does. Great engines. But that engine has been apart before. The cam plug on the back was dented from a hammer and the timing chain wasn’t a factory chain. And a felpro gasket on the oil pan
Also the factory used Phillips head screws on the cam plate not Allen heads
That is good to know from you my friend! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! =)
@@frizzellracing Ford switched to the Philips cam thrust plate bolts sometime in the mid 1960's. I have torn apart two 1964 Ford 352's that had the Allen head bolts and both were known original engines that were never apart before. Another giveaway it was apart was the blue paint in the bellhousing area.
@@MattsRageFitGarageevery FE I have & have taken apart have all been large number 3 Philips head bolts on the cam plate. I have FEs from 65 to 72 & all years invetween. I have never had one with allen head bolts.
@@jesseduke694 Both 1964 352's I've torn down had the Allen bolts. The rest have been #4 pozidriv. Look close, they aren't Philips with the lines stamped in them. #4 Philips fits them well enough. #3 Philips fits but not correct.
My personal preference is using a carb plate for engine removal.
good idea. I need to pick up one. Do they sell those at HP?
Make one. Easy peasy
Excellent video CT :) , yes say 360 FE from 1968 Ford F250 pickup definitely had better days on motor also thick sludge plus all when took apart told story and shock me too ! Also tiime gears are metal in 1975 when replacing on stamp from dealer and certain aftermarket parts used nylon plastic ones ! Also blue Torque Converter is factory Ford yes and looking forward more videos too soon CT also be interesting to see!
Let the air out of the front tires for ease of engine comp. Access. Also Harbor freight has the heavy duty step platforms.👍
good idea! Yes, one of those steps would be nice. =)
Didn't westin manufacturing make a front license plate step to add on to trucks?!
Are you going to finish it? Did the swamp dragon get done?
How are you? Regarding the 1965 VW, have you already started the painting process?
4:07 that rod you said what ever this does with c clip is your passing gear.
good to know. thanks buddy!
@@CTmoog Ford called it a kickdown arm. It makes the transmission downshift.
Tear down is easy, finishing a project is hard.
I agree....I've been working on them for some time. This one is going to be running and driving in a few weeks if all goes well. Engine is 90% complete. Just need a few more bits, do the brakes, fuel system, tires etc...should be ready to drive soon! Stay tuned! =)
Great video! You can not tell if oil is good by looking. Though you will hear people say "the oil looks good" all the time. You feel it. Feeling for gritty material..
CT- Ceaseless teardowns
I've got a 1987 460 and trans with 24k miles that runs great. Its in a motorhome I'm probably going to part out.
how much?
@@CTmoog im not sure yet. Someone came to look at it and they want it whole to live in because it has 2 new air conditioners. New furnace. New refrigerator. 6 New tires. New upholstery and carpet and a 6.5kw onan generator with low run time.
I thought about selling the motor and trans because I found a nice 36ft 5th wheel and I planned on putting all the new appliances in the 5th wheel and I have someone who wants the tires. They are regroovable with less than 150 mines.
Its a decent motorhome and everything works but I really want a 5th wheel with slide out. I will get back to you as soon as I find out if this guy is going to buy it.
What are you looking to pay for the motor and trans. Its turn key and still in the motorhome so I can send video of it running. And pic of odometer to show miles.
Wow , what a hood !
Big enough to build a family home out of that 😊
The engine looks like submerged too. And this slime in it 😯
But you and Darrin gonna get this baby on the road again . 👍
Yes, everything about the old trucks is big! =) Yes, it will be back on the road soon!
Do you own a engine stand ? is this the first time you ever pulled a engine ? What is your plan for this truck and engine ,this is my first time visiting your channel ,get rid of that pan of oil before you drop something big in it, love the oil pan drop, the sludge is from never changing the oil just adding to it when it's low and the addition of water makes for that slop ,I've done this a hundred times or more and your bringing tears to my eyes
The block, heads, crank and rods went to the machine shop to be cleaned and checked for assembly. I ordered bearings, seals, rings, and some stuff from Edelbrock. It should be ready to reinstall next week if all goes well. Stay tuned!
Perhaps you’ve already commented on the following. If so, I missed it.
Will we see the completion of the VW bug anytime soon?
Thanks. Your videos are quite enjoyable.
Listen to Darren and don’t take it apart. And listen to your brother too. Sounds like they both have good advice. Headers are cheap and a good upgrade.
About 5 + years ago I bought a 1969 ford f-250 360 auto for 800 bucks. After adding new gas & a battery it started right up and drove it home. But sadly a year or 2 later i sold it because of lack of knowledge of how fix it but also because of extensive rust damage. Anyway i sold it for 1200 buck. But know that I know more I almost literally wanted to rip my leg off and kick my ass. Anyways thanks for keeping this truck from the scrap yard 👍👍.
You can still find some good deals out there. Keep looking! =)
Same here
Someone was a pennzoil user and never changed the oil
Yes, that oil is nasty...
Nice job. I love these kind of videos. An electric ratchet it really nice and they're about $20. They may not get everything to break free but they're great at getting bolts out once loosened.
So much for Fleetwood Mac saying "You would never break the chain"
That motors probably going to need at least one new sleeve. You'd be surprised what else can be cleaned up though. For future reference, if a motor's stuck pop the valve covers off first. If you see push rods that look like these in this engine, don't waste the PB, mystery or time. Plus, even if you do manage to get it unstuck the quickest way you'd know if a valve is stuck closed is by removing the covers so they'd have to come off eventually anyway. I personally use a bore camera to look into the spark plug holes to check cylinder wall and piston condition.
That is good to know. I have another 360 that we sent to the machine shop. It is ready to build. Should be do soon if all goes well.
It's going to be very interesting when it time to put everything back together
Should go back together pretty fast. I have the engine from the swamp dragon we built that can go in it.
Hi CT, reminds me of when I was restoring mustangs with ford engines. They were easy to pull the motor and tranny together. I had a 67 coupe I was working on and the 289 was toast and most came in a box when I towed the car home from a farm pasture. I had two 70 mustangs too and one was a rust bucket and decided to scrap it but took all the good parts off to sell. The 302 was good so put it in the 289 with the right motor mounts. Bolted right up to the tranny and went to start it only to find all the wiring to the ignition was burned up. Found another one to pull out of a 68 for 15 bucks. Still didn't start till I realized i forgot to plug the neutral safety switch to the tranny. Vroom Vroom. 302 in a light car like that was so cool and sounded great with a new set of dual pipes.
Hey Tim! You gotta love these old Fords man they sound great! =) I would love to have an old mustang. Maybe someday! =)
That carb heater is factory
cool! =)
If you do get one without the motor put a 302 in it. You'll love it
Honestly CT, I could care less what you are working on…..or if you ever finish….sell it and move on….whatever. This channel is fun because you are a quirky and interesting “friend” with a great attitude…..plus I get my garage fix.
Wow I really appreciate that! I love working on all types of cars and trucks and filming it for you guys! It really makes me happy that you enjoy it! thank you! =)
At approximately 5:25... that was a factory ID tag for the engine. It'll have some basic stats stamped into it for the engine including the cubic inch rating, unless of course, the engine was modified after it left the factory or someone swapped out the tag to fool someone else. At approximately 17:15... automatic transmissions use a flexplate. Manual transmissions use a flywheel. What's the difference? By definition, a flywheel always possesses a friction surface for a clutch assembly. A Flexplate does not. The flexplate traditionally has no use for a friction surface. It should be noted however, on some modern designs, there is a friction surface built into a flexplate that is used for a parking brake. I don't know of any domestic built vehicle that uses this setup but I have spotted it in some foreign built vehicles over the last 20-30 years. I'll also note that at least on some of the Chevy Corvettes, GM designed some of the transmissions to incorporate a friction disc at the tailshaft end of the transmission for a parking brake as well. However, none of them should be confused with a standard use clutch system designed to shift gears. As for the teeth at the ring gear, what I saw was typical for a 50+ year old vehicle. The engagement gear at the Bendix on the starter will take some damage from smacking into the teeth at the ring gear over time and use as it's designed to... as it's supposed to be softer... but so will the ring gear even though the metal in the ring gear is supposed to be harder via heat treatment. What doesn't help is that unfortunately, engines tend to stop in the same couple of places when we shut them off at the key. The translation on that is the gears mesh in the same places on startup localizing the wear on the teeth in the same couple of places. As others have mentioned, an easy fix is possible if the actual ring gear can be removed from a flywheel or a flexplate via heat. All you need to do is carefully use a fine tip on a torch and heat the gear until it expands enough to be removed. Then you can reverse the gear or rotate it about 30-45 degrees on the original axis and reinstall it. Warning: be careful if you R & R a ring gear. DO NOT DROP THEM. If you do, it may crack or break when it hits the concrete thus rendering it unusable. My best advice is to not only mark the original location of the ring gear so you know where to reinstall it, make sure that you're fully ready to handle hot metal when you heat it up. I shouldn't need to say it but I will anyway - very thick and heavy leather gloves are your friend on a R & R. Peace & good vibes!
- Max Giganteum
Great job man sad to see that engine was a goner but can't wait to see it up and running. You could always call her Big red lol up to you keep up the great work
Can probably take a torch and go round and round on that flexplate starter ring - it will pop off - they're usually just press fit on there... you could order a new one or probably just flip that one backwards for fresh tooth engagement. There's videos on getting them to fit back on - torching it.
Good morning here in Brazil, good evening, the work is top-notch, congratulations on your work, we are enjoying this work of creating the F100 truck, right, great, a hug from Lau Tapei
Thank you my friend!!! =)
When you drained the oil pan at the beginning of this, I knew what killed the engine. They weren't keeping up with the oil changes in this motor over the years. When you dropped the pan, it was on full display. They would run the motor and simply add oil as it burned it up and rarely changed the filter. You should use an engine stand, I was nervous watching you work on that motor while it's suspended by a chain. An investment in your safety.
I had a similar truck years ago. I swapped to a 1972 351 Cleveland with an FMX transmission. Built a 1 piece driveshaft to lose the carrier bearing.
What was the swamp dragon frequency mentioned? Thanx
The Swamp Dragon is a 1974 F250 we rescued a couple years back. Check it out.
th-cam.com/video/DHBzIWoGICk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing. I have a 64 f100. Engine won’t turn. My valve train didn’t look nearly that bad
Just thinking, you may want to take the AC compressor off entirely next time so you dont lose a charge. I know this one didnt have anything in it but i was thinking in the future. I know some Fords you actually had to discharge and remove the lines and the compressor as well. I know gm you can pretty much just lean the compressor over to the side while leaving it charged up.
Again just some fyi info for you. Love working on the old stuff, so much easier.
When I pulled the engine on my 79 dent side it was much easier to pull out with the transmission attached and separate them on the ground. I did a mild rebuild on an engine from a 67 Fairlane GTA and put it in there attached to the transmission already. A 390 pops right in.
I'm working on my 1974 F 250 and my biggest upgrade is 2bbl efi and pertronix distributor conversation and headers,,,,, possibly A/C next year or so
Thats awesome! I'm working on some Edelbrock upgrades for this one.
Believe the 360 and 390 use the same block ! Run good but fuel milage is horrible ! Friend put a MSD capacitive discharge ignition and the engine with mild cam would start and run 1000% better ! Much hotter spark means easy starting during winter .
I ordered an intake, carb & distributor from Edelbrock. That should help it run a bit better. New cam & lifters as well.
invest in a can of freeall For something like that. works great on those rusty bolts
Yes Mike that's good stuff! =)
If that's a 360, I wouldn't waste my time on it. This being said, still damn entertaining. Keep up the good videos
Hi Ct
i would put a brand new engine in the truck. If you restore the truck to look brand new again.
Those 360's we dead on arrival for some reason. Nothing you try will make them make any power. Find a 351 Windsor to put in instead.
You can do a lot with a 360/390 block from what I've heard. I'm doing a mild build, upgrading the intake, carb & distributor from Edelbrock. Should be a nice engine with better than factory performance for a farm truck.
352 360 390==same block just easier and cheaper to start with a 390 rather than putting pre pollution 390 rotating Assembly in the 360, block
@@tomstulc9143 360/390/410 same block. 352 is a smaller bore. 332/352 same block.
Epic loud exhaust and louder stereo that's how we did it in the 70s and 80s
We want the VW beetle back
Another project that will never get finished.
Back on the road in 30 days if all goes well. Let's see what happens.
I won’t be holding my breath cause I’ll be dead by the time you finish it.
Some people have already commented on the best place to start on a tear down like this is with a trip to the pressure washer. As bad as that looks, chances are that it can be reconditioned back to a running engine. Won't know until you get it to a reputable machine shop that can evaluate its condition. Everything is fixable, just takes $$$.
Yes, I'll do that on the next one. Yes, I will get it down to a machine shop and have them check it out.
You're doing a great job. Enjoy watching your rusterations. Maybe a few too many projects going on at once, but still good to watch.@@CTmoog
Thank you!
I’d just go buy a nice used 460 and drop it in and be done. That way the old swamp dragon will have a engine for when you get to it.
Not a bad idea! =)
390 & 360 share the same bore i made 360 a 390 with botton end from a 390 that a cracked block .
460 won’t match his transmission but I’m surprised he didn’t pull trans at the same time anyway. I’d find a running 390 or rebuild your 360 to a 390 and you’ll be a world ahead
I had 2 fwd Truck both 4speed s the only difference was 460 in one 390 in the other the 390 would out pull and out run the 460 s are guttless stock we fixed the 460 by adding 429 cam & timing chain&gears ford retarded the valve timing on the 460 for emissions.
Won't bolt up
Cool truck. Love the videos. Shame she turned pink again.
Thanks man! The drivers side is still red. I didn't dot eh passenger side yet. It should buff out...😎
That was one good truck, if Ford wants to know what to reproduce next. 3 speed on the fly, with a straight six.
Yes, these old trucks are pretty coo!
@@CTmoog The kids would have a field day if Ford re-produced that truck. Fun stuff.
What drive is your Milwaukee. Are you happy with it?
Jesus, this was painful to watch....
Have it hot tanked and rebuild it..
good idea! =)
Syrup oozes out….”that’s not too bad”….👀👀😂😂😂💀 awesome.
Looks like it was running on moly EP and bacon grease lol. Excellent video!
How did that oil look so fresh on the stick? What a surprise when you dropped the pan.
Oil impregnated with sludge goes to the bottom because it's heavier, fresh oil floats to the top because it's lighter. Simple.
- Max Giganteum
I love a teardown!
Transmission kick-down linkage
Thanks buddy!
"FORD", thxs for sharing...
Thank you! =)
The way that piston is sitting almost at the deck, paired with the double roller chain... makes me think it's a 390 convert. Weird that they wouldn't go 4v though.
Nice truck but now I only have reruns for my 914 fix. LOL
Thanks man! There will be more 914 in the future! =)
Are you building a shop truck project out of this bumpside Ford truck CT?!
nunca terminas ningun auto solo desarmas trastos viejos, PRESENTA ALGUN DIA ALGO TEMINADO
Don't look the oil filter housing adapter, it's hard to find
Last chevy 350 i took apart even with this must rust took me an hour and a have to get to a bare block
Oil pan drop was excellent!
haha! Thank you! =)
I think ive seen 352 stamped on the block??
oh maybe....I'll take a closer look this week.
Alot of the FE engine blocks have 352 cast into them. It dous not mean it's a 352. The 352 was discontinued in 67. It was replaced with the 360 in 68. However some of the 360 engine blocks continued to have 352 cast into them.
You should have put the engine on a stand for safe tear down…it’s a wonder you didn’t get hurt! Can’t keep running on dumb luck…one day it’ll run out. Skip the FE, get a 460 and drop in…done!
Definitely use a stout engine stand... absolutely. A 460, while powerful, is a gas hog. I'd go for a 302 or a 351W for general running around in a parts truck. Yes, I'd toss a number of aftermarket parts on both the 302 and 351W before installing them. Think long and hard before going to a 460, unless you really need a lot of pulling power, they aren't worth it. Of course, if you've got money to burn... you may not care about the poor gas mileage.
- Max Giganteum
The Ghia is now just a wasted dream.
😅
haha! =)
sounds like another ct original - rock on
good ear! =) Thanks buddy! 😎😎😎
dannng CT. thats some thick oil crude oil lol ohh by the way i didnot feel that knuckle breaker ouch😮
Sediment on the bottom of the oil pan thats some thick oil you can probably use it for AXLE grease wow
That old oil musta smelt like burnt melted metal wow CT. that was crazy 😮 stay cool😎
Hey Atom, yes, it was so gross...cold and slimy...hahah!
I believe. That the ring with the teeth can be taken off and flip around or just replace the ring itself don't know if its cheaper to buy a whole flex plate
One man´s job, just like me all the time.
yes buddy! If you can do it get it done now...no time to wait for help! =)
When will the Beetle finish?
it's done...just needs a windshield! =) check out the first drive video.
Finish the ghia before you start with the truck
😅
Nothing on the beetle in 2 months, mate! What's going on?😢😢😢
would love to have that truck to work on ! Why did you NOT unbolt the torque converter ? The motor would have come out alot easier ! ?????
Yes, they are good fun. The engine is seized....can't access the bolts for the converter.
Yea , I didn't notice till after I posted . I would tear that motor aprt any day compared to today .@@CTmoog
Nice truck sir.
Thanks man! 👍
I do believe that is a 352 not a 360. I am a little concern about all the times you said save this and reuse it. About the only thing I would reuse would be the block, crank, timing chain cover, and rods if they are ok after machining. New aluminum heads and intake, oil pump, cam with roller lifters, bearings, rings, timing chain set, freeze plus, water pump, balancer, alternator, power steering pump, hoses, plugs, wires, an HEI distributor, EFI throttle body, motor mounts, radiator, thermostat, and etc. Those cast iron heads would need a ton of machining, new valve train and probably harden valve seats installed and then they weight a tone, same with that 2 barrel cast iron intake.
I have another 360 block I pulled out the swamp dragon that I'm using on this build. I'm using the block, heads, crank and rods. I ordered an intake & carb from Edelbrock. Should be a nice better than factory build.
1968 was the first year that Ford put a 360 in a pickup.
@@greggminkoff6733 Is that why the block had 352 casted into it in a couple of different spots
@@fredmaxwell9619 From what I have heard all FE blocks have 352 cast into them even the 428.
@@1575murray Oh I never heard that. Strange.
2:45 No, son, they didnt come from the factory with dual glasspacks. 😏
CT. Would you Pleeeese concentrate on the Beetle and Ghia and then come back to your other projects. Thank you!
Great job ! TY
Im putting a new Motor in my 70 Ford F250 a 360 bored out to a 390. With a Edelbrock intake and 4 barrel carb.
Oh crap! That pan looks like it was never changed. Looks like it lot of metal shavings in there.
yes, it was nasty! Lots of junk in there....haha
You got the 390 from swamp dragon
yes, that's the plan. We are using the Swamp Dragon's engine. It's been build and upgraded with Edelbrock parts.
Easy to get to the trany bolts when you got room
Water pump bearings wear out. Then the water pump doesn't pump enough causing overheating. Vice Grip Garage uses Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders to loosen the engine.
Shot bearings in a water pump doesn't cause the pump to move less volume... what on earth ever gave you the idea that was true?!? Hello! A pump moves less coolant by volume because a belt is slipping, there is a lack of coolant in the system, there is a blockage somewhere in the system, the impeller is corroded away or there is an issue with the radiator. Bad bearings = leakage and/or noisy bearings. There is one other possibility though... a seized water pump. Peace & good vibes!
- Max Giganteum
@@MaxGiganteum Go to a parts store and have them to pull a pump off the shelf. Grab the hub and turn it by hand. It'll turn slow. An old pump turns fast because it's slipping. Mechanics call it 'slipping'. The hub turns easy and it's not pushing water fast enough. It's like riding a bike in the easiest gear on a flat road. You pedal alot but don't go very far. Then, if you put it in 3rd gear, then you go further easier.
@@CarlWilliams-u3y You seriously need a dose of reality. The pump turns at the same speed whether it is new or has 200K miles on it given that the drive belt isn't slipping on the receptive pulley. The condition of the bearings is irrelevant. They can be optimal from new and feel snug or well worn in and freely spin with little effort. A new pump won't spin more slowly just because it's new. Given that the impeller is not damaged, the water pump will move the same volume of coolant whether the pump has zero, 50K, 100K, 500K or any other number of miles on it. The analogy of the bicycle is false. Why? You're literally changing the mechanical advantage you have by changing gears - this is impossible in a water pump! The pulley for the belt, the main shaft of the pump and the impeller are all locked together - they cannot be "adjusted" or "changed" or "switched" during normal operation except in a system that is designed for such to take place - something that is not found on a Ford built FE engine. Unless the drive belt is slipping or the shaft is seizing in the bearing (which can and will cause slippage at the drive belt) then the water pump will always spin at the same speed when new or old - that speed is the speed which it is driven based on the speed of the crankshaft. End of story!
- Max Giganteum
@@MaxGiganteum Go to a parts store and ask them. Mechanics know about slipping.
@@CarlWilliams-u3y A parts store... are you on drugs? Expecting a skinflint at a parts store to actually know anything is like expecting Joe Biden to know where he is or what day of the week it is. Only a total fool would put any faith in anything either says... though I'd give high odds the parts store skinflint would prove to be more likely to get it right over Biden. The skinflint might actually push the correct buttons on the computer and get you what you need! Biden is so far gone, he cannot climb a flight of stairs or ride a bicycle without falling over!! You're in a comments section with a guy that has 55 years of experience. I'm a machinist/welder/fabricator/mechanic that went to college for machining technology and mechanical engineering. In my long working career, I've worked for a variety of engineering firms and the world's biggest airline. Ask yourself who it would be smarter to trust. Me or a nooblet that spends their day as a parts flunky for an auto parts chain?!? Better yet, apply yourself and test things out for yourself and see if what I stated previously is true. That's right, conduct your own real-life experiment using actual components and see what the results are. Do it and do it accurately, you'll find that what I stated is true. Enough said!
- Max Giganteum
Hello sir love my ford truck my brand of trucks always
Thank you! me too! =)
Queremos ver evolution do porche 914 e o fusca etc 👍👍👍
As bad as it may look... based on what I could see in the video, in may be possible to completely disassemble, fully clean and reassemble this engine and get it running using a complete gasket set and some new parts. There would be a few minimum things that would need to happen to pull this off. First, complete disassembly without damage to any main components. Removing the pistons from the bores is usually the most problematic thing to accomplish but I've seen as bad or worse than this engine be done with success. If I had to, I'd mechanically remove as much corrosion as practical then I'd use electrolysis to remove the rest, even if I had to hot tank the block then submerge the entire thing in an electrolysis tank. Next after disassembly? You'd have to revitalize each of the parts which equates to a full cleaning. After that? Inspect each part for damage - they'll either be able to be used or they won't, based on obvious damage. Next? Mic each part for being on size and being true. Any part that is bent or warped in such a way as to be unrepairable is scrap by default. Once all that is accomplished, it's a matter of the results. If this engine was rebuilt as suspected and has limited or little to no wear, it might be a matter of hot tanking the block then simply putting it back together using most of the same parts that came out of it including the bearings. If all the main components are good, there's no reason that reassembly cannot be accomplished with a successful, running engine being the result. Machining might not be necessary at all. Yes, there are a few tasks that may need to be done such as grinding the valves and valve seats. The bores may need a super light hone to allow new rings to seat. Speaking of new rings, some parts may need to be replaced such as the piston rings, some or all of the valves and the valve springs. A new, complete gasket set is mandatory and many folks might elect to go with all new bearings even if the condition of the prior bearing set is good. Some folks may replace the oil pump even if the old unit checks out. A new timing set is mandatory as are a set of core plugs and most likely the water pump but that depends on condition - it might check out. Some of us could rebuild it though, so to me, that's a moot point. I'd get it to go either way. A new fuel pump is mandatory even if the old unit works - never trust the internal diaphragm unless it's replaced and you prove that out. What else? You'll need to go through the carb, alternator and distributor. After that? You should have an engine that can be reassembled and be made to run. I'm not including the radiator at this point but that too can be tested. Yes, there are some other parts that may be needed... parts for the distributor and carb or some soft parts like hoses and filters. Note that I wouldn't recommend just putting this engine back together with the current parts even if they all check out. I'm merely stating that such a thing might be possible. If the engine were mine, I would not only make the effort to find out the facts but I'd take the opportunity to make many modifications to gain more power and efficiency from it if it were viable. At this point, all I'm considering are the possibilities, that is all. The main thing I'm looking at is that an engine may look like a nightmare... but that doesn't mean it is. Sometimes, all you need to do is disassemble, clean and reassemble. Peace & good vibes to all!
- Max Giganteum
I would find a later truck or pu that has 351 something and buy the thing. Should be some around.
A wreck maybe and have a later engine and trans that has overdrive and just as much power or more.
Damn, Mr. CT, this was a disgustingly sludgy oil... It didn't even want to run.. Interesting, but it seemed, when you removed, even the heads were bent.. Or is it just optical illusion?
Mm, not much more to do with that engine without a major rebuild to salvage the salvageable. It's a good thing to learn, experience new situations and discover stuff.. or even play some forensic style research. Keep going, projects are waiting for you.. 😉
That engine is toast
Yes it is.....new one going in next week! =) Stay tuned!
The whole truck is.
Really dude put it on a old tire or something. Before you brake something you can't fix.
Oh look ...another project we wont see finished
😅
Great vid! That’s some nasty oil sludge. Just be done with names and name it “pepto” or “pep toe”
Thank you! yes, it's nasty! haha! =)
Is this the beginning of another CT kit, or will this be the one that gets finished???? Who cares I go to your channel to learn how to dismantle different kinds of cars and trucks trucks..KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!!
very cool vid thanks
I’ve got a story worse than the motor you have I had a 78 f150 and my engine went bad so my late father and went to a wrecking yard and bought a motor that we didn’t have them start so we got it all setup and got it running the lifters wouldn’t stop tapping so we turned it off and took off valve covers and there was a half inch of slug on top of the heads so we decided to remove the oil pan and it was two inches of slug so we had to clean the whole engine and then it ran good after all that
To many damn projects
My dad had a 73 f100 with a 360 do do brown
my favorite color! haha! =)
converter is from 73 (D6) c is 60's d is 70's
interesting...good to know. Thank you!