I replaced the strut/spring combo (both sides) on my 2007 Sedona yesterday. What a difference! Very quiet and smooth going over bumps. Thank you for posting this video.
@@JD-sc8mi slightly different removing the top strut bolts. I had to remove a plastic cover, possibly windshield wipers as well. Not a big deal, just added some time. Lower connections were the same. Please tighten the bolts up to specs if possible, I had to re-tighten one side about a week later.
I got my replacement struts with no springs, I unloaded springs off old struts and reloaded them into new ones. This is a very handy video. She does the job correctly and safely. If you have to mess with springs then please be careful. Most machine shops still do it for 20-30$ each maybe?? They have jigs to make it not so dangerous. I couldn't find anyone in my immediate area that would. I borrowed spring tool from auto parts store and they have to be positioned just right so they don't slip. A vice grip works great. (Super important)! I didn't have air so I 1/2" drive ratcheted the dang thing down. Wore me out! I recommend a 1/2" impact. When tension is relieved remove nut and cap, rubber and very carefully, with entire unit facing away from anyone or anything, remove spring holding by the tool and reverse process onto new strut. Make sure rubber and cap fit flush onto spring end. ( In case you turn around the end with coil almost touching coil below it goes up. Coil with considerable gap between next coil goes down. Make sure you have nut torqued all the way home. Then very carefully relieved pressure on spring tool. Not meaning to hijack site I took considerable risk doing springs with no instructions or watching a knowledgeable person like this young lady' video. Be safe.
Wow, someone on TH-cam who finally understands how to use a torque wrench! I cringe when I see most people even at work not holding it right. Good video.
@An idiot... That's a good point. I think I was just shocked to not see someone yanking on the torque wrench for once. I see people all the time yank really hard and they hear a click so they assume they're good. Usually they've gone well over the torque. And it's not good on the wrench.
Wow, I attempted this weekend to change out my struts and it was a touch and go for a moment!!! the strut "came" down slightly where as I could not pull it out however after I walked away I was able to figure out what to do. the drivers side was so much easier once I did not allow the strut to come down on its own by placing a peg in one of the bolt holes. Now I need to change out the rear shocks which should not be as difficult. thank you again for your video.
What was the symptoms that led to replacement?? My grandma's van is bit loud going over humps. Also making a crunch noise. We have eliminated balls joints, tie rod ends, brakes, wheel bearings. Other then this crunch noise and being loud over bumps (possibly excessive travel) I was leaning front struts.
I'm curious you didn't mention a particular direction to orient the mounting plate on top. The center of rotation is not at the center of the four mounting studs, rotating that plate 90° the location of the top of the strut affecting caster and camber…. Where it was can be identified by that little black rubber tab pointing to the front driver side of the vehicle…When you buy the new struts they don't say anything about that either but turning that mounting plate 90° moves the location of the top of the strut…
Excellent video. Thank you. One question ... at the 10 minute mark, when you reattached the brake hose, it appears to squirt out brake fluid in an upward direction. What was that? Did the hose get nicked or sliced as you were reattaching it?
Good eye! But not brake fluid :) It was a piece of dirt or dust that flew by the lens. This was several years and no problems with the brake fluid leak
well I replaced the struts still getting a grinding/crushing noise when going over certain bumps and while exaggerated left to right at slow speeds thinking sway bar links and bushings.
Thanks for this video! I may be replacing my front struts/springs in my 2005 Kia Sedona in the not to distant future and I have a question for you: Which company did you buy the kit from, and how have these strut kits worked out for you? Not sure if I want to get them pre-assembled or just buy the components separately. Thanks again!
Voyageur4700 You bet! I bought from RockAuto. I would only recommend the pre-assembled. For whatever little money savings you’d get with buying the components separately, you’d more than pay for in time spent assembling, not to mention the risk with compressing the springs yourself! Do you have spring compressors? I’d imagine you could “rent for free” from auto parts store but NOT worth it... IMHO
@@iproject1850 RockAuto has MONROE brand strut/spring assembly. Is that brand considered a good brand? Do you recommend any after-market brand with performance comparable to OEM Kia? Thank you.
Knight D I think a lot of it depends on budget. Monroe is a great brand and well known. For most repairs that I do for cars that are towards the end of their life, I will look at the cheapest parts, but then verify with a Google search brand reliability and go from there
if you watched this video, all stuts are similar follow the steps and you can lead this to saving time and money for your pocket, and get the right part all the time, only take a matter of few hours maybe 2hrs for the front and 1.5 for the rear again depending on your vehicle, i change the stab links if they are connected to the strut, and most vehicles will need alignment (some vehicles), always replace struts in pairs this goes for rear shock absorbers, and remember to have medium strength lock-tight (not the red) use the blue and make it a habit to wire brush your nuts and bolts if your reusing them, pre soak nuts and bolts, wire brush them, soak them again, and take off (clean them off) install new part, use proper torque specs for your vehicle. also be safe and have a great day, one thing i forgot to mention is i put the wheels under the vehicle or have extra supports on hand
Erich Guidi I almost always buy the pre-assembled, ready to mount strut assemblies. Although I have the capability and know how to replace just the shock or just the spring, both the risk and the time spent in labor is ultimately not worth it for me. Cheers!
We knew hers were out because it would shutter at highway speed's when applying the brakes. We had recently done a front brake job, so we double checked that. Everything checked out, so we knew the brakes weren't the culprit. You can also tell if the shocks inside of the coils are actually leaking, if a car bounces excessively on bumps, or if your car seems to dip when hard braking. It's a pretty late sign, but if you have any cupping of your tires, it's likely related to worn shocks. If there's over 80,000 miles on the existing struts, I would replace them.
A cement block or something heavy leaning on the brake pedal works great. I used to use a cement block with a rope tied around it when bleeding brake lines by myself. Lean block on pedal, when you need to let off the brake just pull the rope a little. If you need it back on the brake, simply let go of the rope.
Interesting how you didn't show taking it off & putting it back on considering it ways about 50 lbs, I know I just changed my struts & it's a 2 person job. You alone could not maneuver the spring & get nuts on up top BY YOURSELF!
jim cooley I’m surprised you are so sure. I did do this job by myself. I couldn’t video as much as I wanted or at the best angles because I didn’t have a tripod setup yet. I know I’m a female but I’m very strong and very capable. I’ll be posting a Subaru strut change video soon, there you can see me maneuver the strut and secure the nuts by myself, I guess so you have proof.
oh Jimmy.....way to open your sexist mouth...only to shove your filthy foot in it. The weight of a KIA Sedona front strut, including coil-over is 32lbs...that would be 18 lbs shy of your 50 lbs. Yes, I know you said "about", but 32lbs isn't close enough to 50 to justify using "about". How about instead of thumping your little bird-chest and calling her a liar, how about you have a slice of humble pie and thank her for a well made video. Be grateful that she has the desire to work on her own vehicle and not be dependent on a man to do it for her. Embrace gender equality, 'tis a beautiful thing. You pig.
The damn Kia dealer wanted to charge me 1031 dollars for this job. WOW. You gave me the confidence to do this job.
Thanks for this video. A mechanic offered to do this for me for more than $500. I think I can do it myself after watching you. Kudos.
Probably 1500 now!
I replaced the strut/spring combo (both sides) on my 2007 Sedona yesterday. What a difference! Very quiet and smooth going over bumps. Thank you for posting this video.
did you find that the job went just like this one? It looks VERY similar to me. I have a 2007 Kia Sedona LX.
@@JD-sc8mi slightly different removing the top strut bolts. I had to remove a plastic cover, possibly windshield wipers as well. Not a big deal, just added some time. Lower connections were the same. Please tighten the bolts up to specs if possible, I had to re-tighten one side about a week later.
I got my replacement struts with no springs, I unloaded springs off old struts and reloaded them into new ones.
This is a very handy video. She does the job correctly and safely.
If you have to mess with springs then please be careful. Most machine shops still do it for 20-30$ each maybe?? They have jigs to make it not so dangerous.
I couldn't find anyone in my immediate area that would.
I borrowed spring tool from auto parts store and they have to be positioned just right so they don't slip. A vice grip works great. (Super important)!
I didn't have air so I 1/2" drive ratcheted the dang thing down. Wore me out! I recommend a 1/2" impact.
When tension is relieved remove nut and cap, rubber and very carefully, with entire unit facing away from anyone or anything, remove spring holding by the tool and reverse process onto new strut. Make sure rubber and cap fit flush onto spring end. ( In case you turn around the end with coil almost touching coil below it goes up.
Coil with considerable gap between next coil goes down. Make sure you have nut torqued all the way home.
Then very carefully relieved pressure on spring tool.
Not meaning to hijack site
I took considerable risk doing springs with no instructions or watching a knowledgeable person like this young lady' video.
Be safe.
I need to replace my rears as well... bought all four struts already and would love a video for that bad boy. thanks for the video!
th-cam.com/video/_Z3c3epxFR0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0uZHUU1NrCI/w-d-xo.html
Try those 2 videos
Wow, someone on TH-cam who finally understands how to use a torque wrench! I cringe when I see most people even at work not holding it right. Good video.
@An idiot... That's a good point. I think I was just shocked to not see someone yanking on the torque wrench for once. I see people all the time yank really hard and they hear a click so they assume they're good. Usually they've gone well over the torque. And it's not good on the wrench.
thank you for this video, was not sure if I could do this but now I know I can!!!! Save a ton of money.
Edwin Negron that’s great! Yeah, pretty easy right?? Just make sure you get it aligned when you’re done!
Wow, I attempted this weekend to change out my struts and it was a touch and go for a moment!!! the strut "came" down slightly where as I could not pull it out however after I walked away I was able to figure out what to do. the drivers side was so much easier once I did not allow the strut to come down on its own by placing a peg in one of the bolt holes. Now I need to change out the rear shocks which should not be as difficult. thank you again for your video.
Great job on this strut assembly. Thanks very much for your video!
Excellent job. I am impressed
What was the symptoms that led to replacement?? My grandma's van is bit loud going over humps. Also making a crunch noise. We have eliminated balls joints, tie rod ends, brakes, wheel bearings. Other then this crunch noise and being loud over bumps (possibly excessive travel) I was leaning front struts.
I'm curious you didn't mention a particular direction to orient the mounting plate on top. The center of rotation is not at the center of the four mounting studs, rotating that plate 90° the location of the top of the strut affecting caster and camber…. Where it was can be identified by that little black rubber tab pointing to the front driver side of the vehicle…When you buy the new struts they don't say anything about that either but turning that mounting plate 90° moves the location of the top of the strut…
Excellent video. Thank you. One question ... at the 10 minute mark, when you reattached the brake hose, it appears to squirt out brake fluid in an upward direction. What was that? Did the hose get nicked or sliced as you were reattaching it?
Good eye! But not brake fluid :) It was a piece of dirt or dust that flew by the lens. This was several years and no problems with the brake fluid leak
well I replaced the struts still getting a grinding/crushing noise when going over certain bumps and while exaggerated left to right at slow speeds thinking sway bar links and bushings.
Great job. Thank you for sharing.
Nice job ,, thanks
great quality - awesome detail.
Did you need to do anything with the swing arm or were you able to avoid having to remove and reconnect it for this install?
Thanks for this video! I may be replacing my front struts/springs in my 2005 Kia Sedona in the not to distant future and I have a question for you: Which company did you buy the kit from, and how have these strut kits worked out for you? Not sure if I want to get them pre-assembled or just buy the components separately.
Thanks again!
Voyageur4700
You bet!
I bought from RockAuto. I would only recommend the pre-assembled. For whatever little money savings you’d get with buying the components separately, you’d more than pay for in time spent assembling, not to mention the risk with compressing the springs yourself! Do you have spring compressors? I’d imagine you could “rent for free” from auto parts store but NOT worth it... IMHO
@@iproject1850 RockAuto has MONROE brand strut/spring assembly. Is that brand considered a good brand? Do you recommend any after-market brand with performance comparable to OEM Kia? Thank you.
Knight D
I think a lot of it depends on budget. Monroe is a great brand and well known. For most repairs that I do for cars that are towards the end of their life, I will look at the cheapest parts, but then verify with a Google search brand reliability and go from there
if you watched this video, all stuts are similar follow the steps and you can lead this to saving time and money for your pocket, and get the right part all the time, only take a matter of few hours maybe 2hrs for the front and 1.5 for the rear again depending on your vehicle, i change the stab links if they are connected to the strut, and most vehicles will need alignment (some vehicles), always replace struts in pairs this goes for rear shock absorbers, and remember to have medium strength lock-tight (not the red) use the blue and make it a habit to wire brush your nuts and bolts if your reusing them, pre soak nuts and bolts, wire brush them, soak them again, and take off (clean them off) install new part, use proper torque specs for your vehicle.
also be safe and have a great day, one thing i forgot to mention is i put the wheels under the vehicle or have extra supports on hand
Where did you find the whole strut assembly? Can’t find it anywhere
Can’t find for my 2016
Rock auto .com
I can’t find it for a 2016. Even on rockauto
Well it’s out of stock there anyway
@@MisoJuice same, 2016 Sedona LX
cant find the front ones.
Nice job! I just have a question, did you buy the shock absorber kit already assembled?
Erich Guidi I almost always buy the pre-assembled, ready to mount strut assemblies. Although I have the capability and know how to replace just the shock or just the spring, both the risk and the time spent in labor is ultimately not worth it for me. Cheers!
Nice shoes👍
how do i know that i need to replace already the strut, spring and shocks of my sedona 2011?
We knew hers were out because it would shutter at highway speed's when applying the brakes. We had recently done a front brake job, so we double checked that. Everything checked out, so we knew the brakes weren't the culprit. You can also tell if the shocks inside of the coils are actually leaking, if a car bounces excessively on bumps, or if your car seems to dip when hard braking. It's a pretty late sign, but if you have any cupping of your tires, it's likely related to worn shocks. If there's over 80,000 miles on the existing struts, I would replace them.
Never use your member for support. Always use a jack.
If you do lift the car before you loosen the lug nuts, have a helper hit the brakes; it's easier then dropping the car.
That's a great option, but I rarely have a helper around 🙃
A cement block or something heavy leaning on the brake pedal works great. I used to use a cement block with a rope tied around it when bleeding brake lines by myself. Lean block on pedal, when you need to let off the brake just pull the rope a little. If you need it back on the brake, simply let go of the rope.
CAUTION There is a trend in the top of the shock absorber base
Great video with some good idiot proofing :).
Great video. Stupid comments by fat naked men in mom's basement aside, I hope you still make tutorials. Be safe. Did it ride better after the change!
Interesting how you didn't show taking it off & putting it back on considering it ways about 50 lbs, I know I just changed my struts & it's a 2 person job. You alone could not maneuver the spring & get nuts on up top BY YOURSELF!
jim cooley I’m surprised you are so sure. I did do this job by myself. I couldn’t video as much as I wanted or at the best angles because I didn’t have a tripod setup yet. I know I’m a female but I’m very strong and very capable.
I’ll be posting a Subaru strut change video soon, there you can see me maneuver the strut and secure the nuts by myself, I guess so you have proof.
jim cooley why such an ass? You cant do it, she can. Deal with it.
oh Jimmy.....way to open your sexist mouth...only to shove your filthy foot in it. The weight of a KIA Sedona front strut, including coil-over is 32lbs...that would be 18 lbs shy of your 50 lbs. Yes, I know you said "about", but 32lbs isn't close enough to 50 to justify using "about". How about instead of thumping your little bird-chest and calling her a liar, how about you have a slice of humble pie and thank her for a well made video.
Be grateful that she has the desire to work on her own vehicle and not be dependent on a man to do it for her.
Embrace gender equality, 'tis a beautiful thing.
You pig.
jim cooley just put something over the cv axle and rest the bottom of strut under it and lift up
The springs are never the same could drive worse....go back in the kitchen let a man replace the shocks only...
Killer shoes