The Silky Ultra Accel 240 7.5 CURVE is a beautiful saw. I was shocked at how easily it goes through a branch. The 2 position handle makes it better, as well. The curved blade makes the 2 position handle even more adaptation-capable.
I got a 500mm Katana Boy for Xmas and it's a beast! Before that I used my small big boy on trees way bigger than I thought I could get through while clearing trails for Nordic skiing trails on our property. I managed to get through a 12" diameter, partially rotten softwood tree, it took a long time but it still did the job! Silky saws are the best!
I have the Silky Gomboy 300mm medium tooth straight edge blade. I chose that over the 300mm course tooth curved blade and the 2 styles of Bigboy 350mm saws your videoed above. I picked the Gomboy over the Bigboys because of my previous use of a similar sized saw to my Gomboy that I used to prune fruit trees in the orchard on my Grandparents farm when I was a lad. My Grandfather had a bunch of different sized Japanese pruning saws but I really preferred the 300mm straight blade medium tooth one for just about all my prunining needs. In the fine tooth blade Bigboy the "bent back" blade lock position is for undercutting when you are pruning live trees so you don't do too much damage when you do the overhand cut to remove the branch i.e. rip the bark off, etc. Then you just prune close to the trunk to neaten it up before you paint on the tree wound dressing to keep insects out. If you are cutting dead wood, then it does not matter.
I hope the younger/newer folks that are getting outdoor gear use these vids to avoid doing what we did so many years ago & save a ton of money! All we had was an ad at best before we invested the money. I've had many boxes over the years filled with sh!t! "Pretty looking gear" that wasn't worth a penny after a few uses! Thanks brother! Tada
The XL tooth with the yellow/orange handle will cut through a 30cm log!!!🪵 Personally, I have the blue handle with the fine tooth blade and will be getting the medium tooth blade soon.
Thank you very much for that test! 🙂 I think, that can help in much way, to choose the right one for oneself. Greetings and merry Christmas! Christian 🙂
Well done Rob, an actual side by side comparison says more than a 1000 words - I've got 3 Silkies, 3 different tpi's and all fab. I'd happy take any of them bushcrafting and camping......but not today, in this weather.
Interesting review. I take a slightly different approach to saws to most bushcrafters. I usually have my vehicle with me when I'm in the woods, so I don't rely so much on a folding saw. I use either a bahco bow saw or more often a regular carpenters hard-point saw, the sort you can pick up in the big diy stores for about £5. I've made a ply slip sheath to store them safely and always get the coarsest ones I can find.
Good comparison, minor differences. I think 🤔 your point on woodscrafting with the straight blade makes good sense. Smaller teeth per inch and the flat edge on the blade would give more precise results when creating joints and miter corner angles.
Nice comparison Rob,I just ordered a silky outback big boy an can't wait for it to get here,I'm also soon as I can afford it a silky pole saw to help around my house to clear away hard to reach dead branches that too close to my house,I'd like to either get myself a silky katana boy or the 650.
Problem is with the Katanaboy that it's a two handed pull saw and unless the timber is held firm like a standing or fallen tree it's difficult to use, they are not cheap and replacement blades aren't either, I really could do with changing mine , I don't think I'd buy one again knowing what I now know, different if I lived in the outback and needed a backup saw if the chainsaw broke down.
Soft wood, rip cutting big teeth. Hardwood fine cut small teeth. Straight blade for cutting below shoulder height, curved blade for above. This is my understanding 😁
I have the the Big Boy, straight,with rough teeth.(210 ) The rest gets processed with Bahco. bow, 24 and 30 inch, green wood blade or dead wood blade. Had a SuperAccel 119-21 large teeth. Gave that one to my bushcrafter friend. I was tired of seeing her struggle with a Laplander. I will be replacing it at some point. Ciao!
Have you gone back to Chapel and/or Sunday school ? No naughty words ! How about a test on the cheapo pruning saws from the likes of Aldi and Lidl ? Great little folders for tucking into your bergan for a long trip.
Does your opinion on having the straight, fine-toothed blade if you could only have one saw hold true if the size of the saw were scaled down to something like the Gomboy or Pocketboy?
Rob, you didn't mention the difference between wet/green wood and dry wood, and which would be best? I'd guess the straight one with finer teeth would be better for dry wood, and harder, while the big teeth would be a lot better at cutting wet/green wood. I know it's a broad generalisation, but am I close? I saw a review by some Yank bloke the other day saying Silky saw are junk. Then I watched how he tried sawing. He clearly tried to use it as a carpenter's saw (which cuts on the push stroke). Now I notice you seem to have an interesting style that accentuates the pull stroke much more and seems to cut more efficiently. Is this by design, or am I reading too much into it? Is it difficult to learn your style? [Note: I don't have one of these saws. I generally use my Bushwhacker, lopping shears or heavy hatchet for the garden. I think I need one of these.] Cheers
Smaller teeth for harder and dryer wood, I really can't see much different between the two, pushing the silky is asking for trouble, I use a rocking motion when I use the silkys so I cut on the pull stroke and put the least amount of pressure I can on the push stroke.
If you want to use it for crafting then buy the standard saw with a straight blade and medium teeth, if you're just bucking up timber for fires or cutting poles then a curved course blade may be better. Personally if I was going for one saw for everything it would be a gomboy 270 or bigboy with a straight blade and medium teeth.
@@RobEvansWoodsman cheers Rob. It's mainly for pruning branches of 2 inch and felling the odd 6 inch tree. No crafting. But it will be a mixture of soft and hard, dead and live wood.
@@dannyfryer7794 any silky above the 240 will do well on those tasks so it entirely up to you, I don't think that the outback blade is any better than the regular one and I like a bright handle .
I have heard that you can sharpen the blades of Silky saws, not sure how. I have come to prefer the medium tooth saws myself, unless I am cutting a lot of gooey pine then the bigger teeth are much better!
My wife says I have too many thingymagicys, 🤣 hehehehe... Next time I am going to tell her she must count her blessings. My friend Rob outnumber me 100 to one 😜😁
is it not the one with the yellow handlw with the coarse blade is for green wood and the blak handle one for dry hard wood, like the Bacho 51-30 peg tooth blade and Bacho 23-30 racker tooth blade. be easier to buy one handle with two different saw blades. then you would meet both spectrums of the wood world, in my humble opinion, but silky saw blade are breakable and can be sharpen slightly , where as silky woulld say you cant sharpen those blades. if one cant afford silky stick to Laplander for bushcrafting and ypu can buy 3 laplander for the price of one Silky big boy. keep up the good work, cheers H.
Far too sensible. The blades are expensive compared to a full saw, I've just ordered a new blade for my orange saw and I went for the new style £52 posted!!!
The Silky Ultra Accel 240 7.5 CURVE is a beautiful saw. I was shocked at how easily it goes through a branch. The 2 position handle makes it better, as well. The curved blade makes the 2 position handle even more adaptation-capable.
Gotcha
I got a 500mm Katana Boy for Xmas and it's a beast! Before that I used my small big boy on trees way bigger than I thought I could get through while clearing trails for Nordic skiing trails on our property. I managed to get through a 12" diameter, partially rotten softwood tree, it took a long time but it still did the job! Silky saws are the best!
I love them!
There is a video out there where I go through a sizeable log with my Katana boy, probably 18" diameter.
I have the Silky Gomboy 300mm medium tooth straight edge blade. I chose that over the 300mm course tooth curved blade and the 2 styles of Bigboy 350mm saws your videoed above.
I picked the Gomboy over the Bigboys because of my previous use of a similar sized saw to my Gomboy that I used to prune fruit trees in the orchard on my Grandparents farm when I was a lad. My Grandfather had a bunch of different sized Japanese pruning saws but I really preferred the 300mm straight blade medium tooth one for just about all my prunining needs.
In the fine tooth blade Bigboy the "bent back" blade lock position is for undercutting when you are pruning live trees so you don't do too much damage when you do the overhand cut to remove the branch i.e. rip the bark off, etc. Then you just prune close to the trunk to neaten it up before you paint on the tree wound dressing to keep insects out. If you are cutting dead wood, then it does not matter.
I hope the younger/newer folks that are getting outdoor gear use these vids to avoid doing what we did so many years ago & save a ton of money!
All we had was an ad at best before we invested the money. I've had many boxes over the years filled with sh!t! "Pretty looking gear" that wasn't worth a penny after a few uses!
Thanks brother! Tada
I still buy shit stuff to test for the newbies.
Sometimes I still buy it because it's pretty! Lol... then gotta listen to the wife!
@@chillindave1357 don't listen to women they don't understand.
My Mrs has given up!
The XL tooth with the yellow/orange handle will cut through a 30cm log!!!🪵 Personally, I have the blue handle with the fine tooth blade and will be getting the medium tooth blade soon.
Thanks for sharing this. I definitely gonna order a straight blade ,silky big boy saw
Interesting Rob, I am sorry there was no tea involved lol , its kinda your trade mark, as always thankyou for all your hard work
Thank you very much for that test! 🙂
I think, that can help in much way, to choose the right one for oneself.
Greetings and merry Christmas!
Christian 🙂
Just picked up the outback big boy!Great saw!
…. A really good example of how to do a good review!
Well done Rob, an actual side by side comparison says more than a 1000 words - I've got 3 Silkies, 3 different tpi's and all fab.
I'd happy take any of them bushcrafting and camping......but not today, in this weather.
I'm in the woods now and the weather is crap! Just about to buck up some wood with the black big boy.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Or the Frank Bruno as it's otherwise called.
@@jimcy1318 brilliant!
Interesting review. I take a slightly different approach to saws to most bushcrafters. I usually have my vehicle with me when I'm in the woods, so I don't rely so much on a folding saw. I use either a bahco bow saw or more often a regular carpenters hard-point saw, the sort you can pick up in the big diy stores for about £5. I've made a ply slip sheath to store them safely and always get the coarsest ones I can find.
They'll cut down grain , silkys are terrible down the grain.
Thank you!
Silky is now the standard for bushcrafting and I prefer the straight blades. Interesting comparison would be between a Pocket Boy and a Laplander. 👍👍
I'm on it mate, great minds think alike.
Next week probably.
Good comparison, minor differences. I think 🤔 your point on woodscrafting with the straight blade makes good sense. Smaller teeth per inch and the flat edge on the blade would give more precise results when creating joints and miter corner angles.
Exactly.👍
Nice comparison Rob,I just ordered a silky outback big boy an can't wait for it to get here,I'm also soon as I can afford it a silky pole saw to help around my house to clear away hard to reach dead branches that too close to my house,I'd like to either get myself a silky katana boy or the 650.
Problem is with the Katanaboy that it's a two handed pull saw and unless the timber is held firm like a standing or fallen tree it's difficult to use, they are not cheap and replacement blades aren't either, I really could do with changing mine , I don't think I'd buy one again knowing what I now know, different if I lived in the outback and needed a backup saw if the chainsaw broke down.
Soft wood, rip cutting big teeth. Hardwood fine cut small teeth. Straight blade for cutting below shoulder height, curved blade for above. This is my understanding 😁
Excellent saws , I won’t part with mine , essential piece, I use the big boy Silky
I figured I would just purchase extra blades and switch out as needed.:-)
I think the curved blade could have been changed for a new one before the test for a better result.
I did change the blade not long after this.
I still prefer the straight blade.
I have the the Big Boy, straight,with rough teeth.(210 ) The rest gets processed with Bahco. bow, 24 and 30 inch, green wood blade or dead wood blade. Had a SuperAccel 119-21 large teeth. Gave that one to my bushcrafter friend. I was tired of seeing her struggle with a Laplander. I will be replacing it at some point. Ciao!
I was thinking of getting an accel a few years ago.
@@RobEvansWoodsman the best- laid plans of both mice and men oft go astray. :)
Try Ultra Accel Curved !
Have you gone back to Chapel and/or Sunday school ? No naughty words ! How about a test on the cheapo pruning saws from the likes of Aldi and Lidl ? Great little folders for tucking into your bergan for a long trip.
Sorry mate but I don't buy cheap f**kin' s**t!
🤣🤣🤣
Does your opinion on having the straight, fine-toothed blade if you could only have one saw hold true if the size of the saw were scaled down to something like the Gomboy or Pocketboy?
Straight every time, I have a Gomboy and pocket boy, both have straight blades.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Thanks for the reply. As always, I appreciate the insight.
Rob, you didn't mention the difference between wet/green wood and dry wood, and which would be best? I'd guess the straight one with finer teeth would be better for dry wood, and harder, while the big teeth would be a lot better at cutting wet/green wood. I know it's a broad generalisation, but am I close? I saw a review by some Yank bloke the other day saying Silky saw are junk. Then I watched how he tried sawing. He clearly tried to use it as a carpenter's saw (which cuts on the push stroke). Now I notice you seem to have an interesting style that accentuates the pull stroke much more and seems to cut more efficiently. Is this by design, or am I reading too much into it? Is it difficult to learn your style? [Note: I don't have one of these saws. I generally use my Bushwhacker, lopping shears or heavy hatchet for the garden. I think I need one of these.] Cheers
Smaller teeth for harder and dryer wood, I really can't see much different between the two, pushing the silky is asking for trouble, I use a rocking motion when I use the silkys so I cut on the pull stroke and put the least amount of pressure I can on the push stroke.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Makes sense, I should have worked that out for myself. Thanks.
What do you think about small vs large teeth when it comes down to cutting fatwood?
Small probably best and alcohol to remove the sticky bits, alcohol based hand sanitizer works well, plenty of that knocking about these days!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Lol thanks!
I'm getting a gomboy 240 but don't know if I should get the outback 240-8 or standard 240-10
If you want to use it for crafting then buy the standard saw with a straight blade and medium teeth, if you're just bucking up timber for fires or cutting poles then a curved course blade may be better.
Personally if I was going for one saw for everything it would be a gomboy 270 or bigboy with a straight blade and medium teeth.
@@RobEvansWoodsman cheers Rob. It's mainly for pruning branches of 2 inch and felling the odd 6 inch tree. No crafting. But it will be a mixture of soft and hard, dead and live wood.
@@dannyfryer7794 any silky above the 240 will do well on those tasks so it entirely up to you, I don't think that the outback blade is any better than the regular one and I like a bright handle .
Your accent is almost like Norwegian accent 😀😀
I have heard that you can sharpen the blades of Silky saws, not sure how. I have come to prefer the medium tooth saws myself, unless I am cutting a lot of gooey pine then the bigger teeth are much better!
I won't be sharpening a silky blade, too awkward.
Silky Big Boy blades are hardened. You can’t sharpen them.
Is Thais an old Video?
Yes, took it off the end of another one, thought it relevant as I'm comparing saws, ta.
Rob
My wife says I have too many thingymagicys, 🤣 hehehehe... Next time I am going to tell her she must count her blessings. My friend Rob outnumber me 100 to one 😜😁
What are the saws called specifically? Just in case I ask Santa for the black one?
Silky bigboy straight blade medium teeth.
Third!🤪
Second!!! LOL!!!
Go to bed it's late!
@@RobEvansWoodsman haha 😄
is it not the one with the yellow handlw with the coarse blade is for green wood and the blak handle one for dry hard wood, like the Bacho 51-30 peg tooth blade and Bacho 23-30 racker tooth blade. be easier to buy one handle with two different saw blades. then you would meet both spectrums of the wood world, in my humble opinion, but silky saw blade are breakable and can be sharpen slightly , where as silky woulld say you cant sharpen those blades. if one cant afford silky stick to Laplander for bushcrafting and ypu can buy 3 laplander for the price of one Silky big boy. keep up the good work, cheers H.
First
Can you not just buy one saw and have 2 blades?
Far too sensible.
The blades are expensive compared to a full saw, I've just ordered a new blade for my orange saw and I went for the new style £52 posted!!!
@@RobEvansWoodsman fair play, bag full of saws it is then!
My fanno cuts better