This video is spot on. My bike made same noise, same issue. The example shown was exactly same condition as mine with slop in the compensator. The disassembly shown helped me a TON. I knew exactly what to expect and how to do it. Perfect. Thank you!
Mark, thanks for the detailed video. Just did my 09 Ultra and it's so much better; no more clunking. Awesome. I installed the Screaming Eagle Compensator like you but left the springs as they came and it worked great. Just rode over 2,000 miles to Sturgis and around and back with no problems whatsoever. I love guys that just get in there and get 'er done. Props buddy!!!
Glad to hear it, Joe. The main reason I added an extra spring is that I have a previously used setup that came from another bike and I did not expect that spring pack to have the same tension as a brand new pack. It's still doing ok, no issues yet. How was Sturgis?! That's some good mileage you put on to get there and back. Good for you on diving in and "git'n 'er done"! I still feel it is well worth the effort.
2008 dyna FXD.SE upgrade.I ground the inner primary w a Die grinder to get the rotor off.I opted to grind rather than remove the Inner prrimary .It was about an 1/8 of an inch but still has plenty of meat left.Clutch basket did not have to come out .Now If I need to change the Stator later its not hours its minutes.Thank for the Vid.
Thank you for the comment! I actually ended up grinding mine as well due to the rotor that I installed was out of balance. You're right, it didn't take much grinding with a Dremel to get the rotor to slide by, and easier to replace stator if need be down the road!
Hello, very good videos, you have made it very clear how to change the compensator, and I will do it. I wanted to ask you a question, what size are the compensator nut and the clutch nut? and the one with the screming eagles compensator, is it a torx t70 ?, thank you very much.
Hello Fernando, I'm very sorry to say I did not make a note of what size those nuts are. My compensator has the hex bolt instead of torx, so I do not know that size either. Good luck to you my friend!
Matt, you have a different style compensator for your 04, matched up to the 88 cubic inch motor, so you shouldn't have any issues waiting for you inside. Shouldn't being the key word. Let me know. Thanks!
Thanks for the idea of the block. Mine is an 03 fxdl and Ive been trying to get the big nut off the compensator half the damn day. I'll try your idea in the morning.
I've been wondering why it is that in some videos, I see them placing an Allen wrench inside that clutch rod while using a wrench to loosen the nut? If you are not adjusting the clutch, is it okay not to do that?
While it's available to do that with the cover(s) off, that adjustment can bone to verify the clutch rod has the proper free play. Usually after that it's wise to check the clutch lever free play as these parts work together as a team. It's not a difficult process to go through and has its benefits.
@@contact4mwy7 I am still a bit confused. I am in the process of removing the clutch basket to enable the compensator to come off. Can I just slide out the mainshaft without having to hold the clutch rod in place with the Allen key? If the mainshaft and clutch rod come out merely by removing the retaining ring, why do some people use an Allen key to hold the clutch rod?
@@CarlosGarcia-ls4hn the only reason I know of is if they are adjusting the free play. Just as in my video, if you remove the snap ring the outer shaft and clutch rod slide right out, exposing the reverse threaded nut to remove the clutch. The outer shaft accepts an Allen key and is threaded through the round plate with the nut acting as a jam nut to keep it from tightening or loosening which would throw off the free play it needs. You do not need to use an Allen key and wrench on that assembly to remove the clutch basket.
One bit of advice, get a gun cleaning kit, .177, .22, .25, 9mm, .45, and 12 ga all will be your friends. Use those and a drill to clean out the threads of any hardware that had locktite on them. Use a wire brush, the wire wheel on the bench grinder, or a dremel on hardware you are able to reuse.
The spacer and seal on the crank in middle of stator came out on mine. Can you tell me if the seal goes in flat side toward case or open side with rubber toward the case pls?
Phil, this is what my copy of a 2011 service manual states. e. With the lettering on the oil seal facing outward, slide sprocket shaft spacer and oil seal over pilot shaft until it contacts bearing bore. f. Slide SPROCKET SHAFT OIL SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39361-B) over pilot shaft until it contacts oil seal.
Hi again Mark one more question did eliminating the small beveled and adding a 3rd medium one work for you? I bought a SE Compensator just like yours but after installing it I still have rattle and clunking sometumes at start up. Thank you for your time
I have since added the small thrust washer back where it belongs along with the extra medium Belleville spring washer. After trying it without the extra spring I can tell the engine pulses are more present at lowered rpms, but not harsh, along with a more solid startup without the thrashing. Is this because the total spring pack is weak? Possibly. Maybe a brand new set wouldn't need the extra spring with it, but I'm satisfied with how this setup is working so far.
I did consider it but saw posts on forums that said the ride was more shaky and you had to stay up in the RPMs to minimize the effects of the engine pulsing. I had installed an extra spring washer in my Screamin Eagle compensator among the medium spring washers and it gave the effect of passing more of the engine pulses each time the pistons fired. So I reconfigured them so that the extra was on the inside and that lessened it. Now I am running a totally stock configuration and it rides much smoother. I would think that anyone who goes to a solid sprocket will miss the smoothness of how it was running before. Then there are the considerations of what the pulses are doing to the crankshaft and the rest of the drivetrain.
Hello Mark, How is the bike running since you installed the medium Boneville Washer? I had 2 small washers and still hear noise so I wanted to see if you’re method did the trick. Thanks, G
I removed the extra spring washer to try it as stock and ended up putting it back in. The clutch engagements and motor pulses were smoother, but startups were noisy again. So far so good.
@@contact4mwy7 Sounds Great Mark, I just reinstalled mine back in and used the medium Washer like you did but also used the small Washer Spring but reversed it so it’s just being used as a shim. So far so good no Noise but a nice long ride will tell the Story. Thank you again for you’re Videos! Very Helpful. G
You're lucky ! my Softail did about 6000miles and did the compensator, and I needed to replace the clutch basket and starter pinion because of broken teeth . I have gouges in the back primary cover near the alternator. No oil leak causing ones and the coils checked out ok, but the job shouldn't need doing on such a low mileage bike. The primary bolts can be reused if you replace those O rings- but new bolts are cheap.
I think you're talking about the original compensator, which I couldn't find any new springs for, only salvaged spring packs. Then after so many miles I would have to replace them again due to its design not being intended for a motor larger than 88 ci.
I would say it all depends on how hard you throttle it and how much you lug it in the upper gears. Harley didn't start putting the Screamin Eagle compensator in from the factory until 2012 for the 96'ers.
Thanks a ton, I've searched everywhere for the leak.No one would or could say. Baught a used bike..... that makes sense about the one time use bolts... thanks again!
BrewCityRider thanks for the reply. My current stock comp bolt is the smaller size non-screaming eagle comp. Iʻm installing a Baker comp and have the correct size socket for it. I also have a newer model stator to install behind the Baker comp. Chain tensioner has already been upgraded also.
Nice job. Great camera work too. They make a special tool for pulling off the stator cover, and some guys make their own, but you just pulled it off haha! Unless you have a Hulk-like grip that I don't know about, I guess those special tools aren't needed. Looks like a job I could do if I needed to. I sure as hell am not going to pay the hundreds in Harley shop labor that they would charge for this. Gonna watch part 2 now...
My buddy change his stator on an 09 and it hit the inner primary cover so we called Harley they said you don't have to take the inner primary cover off all you have to do is pull really hard and it will come right out, so that's what we did and it came right out, then it went back the same way just got to wrestle it in a little bit then it just slide right in, so I thought people should know you don't have to take the inner primary cover off you don't have to grind just use some muscles and it'll come right out
Jimmy Flowers i hope so, because it’s not only the inner cover, but before that, also the battery, oil tank, starter bolts, the clutch. I’m going to try it right now. Thnks👍
Jimmy Flowers, no matter how I tried, the rotor didn’t came off, so i had to remove the inner cover. I made a long 1/4” allen key with a ball shaped end, (because of the angle) turned the bolts of the oil tank loose, to get some space between the gearbox and the oil tank, and with the long allen key i could turn the starter bolts loose. Now the inner cover is off, i could take off the rotor and springs of the old compensator. Everything is cleaned up, placed a new oil seal in the inner cover, and in about an hour my new friction plates arrive. Then put it all together again, with the Baker compensator and Baker chain tensioner. So I’m building again 😅🥳
I saw videos of people trimming a bit the primary housing with a dremmel tool and you dont have to remove the whole housing, is like 1mm (0.0393701 inch) witch is nothing. Thank you for the videos.
I actually ended up doing just that due to an imbalance in the rotor. I had replaced some broken magnets and found out the hard way you just can't do that without being able to properly balance it. Thank you for your comment!
Mine was a little stuck on the shaft when I pulled on it. I think some of the spline material that broke off was binding it up. All I can say is go easy, back and forth, and hope that whatever is in there holding it will let go. When you do get it apart let me know if you have some broken splines inside the clutch. One or two splines in mine were separated.
Hi Mark I know this video is 3 years old but my 2009 Ultra Classic needs a compensator do you by any chance know the part number of the Screaming Eagle Compensator you bought off ebay also having a problem find SE Stator Rotor. Thank you if you see this
I didn't have a part number to go by, just the years 2009-2013. For big twin, not M8. You will need to find the stator rotor (with the magnets inside it). There are two types to look at. One has a hex head main bolt, that is the earlier version, and the one I went with. The other has a torx head type main bolt which is the newer version. This version uses a plastic funnel that is glued inside the primary cover to direct oil into the end of the compensator. The hex bolt type does not need this, that's why I chose the earlier version.
Hello Mark - I have a 2008 street glide with an LBP (Lozano Brothers Porting) 107 Pro Touring Kit. At the rear wheel, 110 hp/115 ft. lbs. torque. Will this compensator work on my street glide? Thanks for the videos.
I'm going to say "it should." These compensators were also used on the factory 103's, so you're not that much higher in cubic inches. That's a good amount of torque and hp! If you still have the factory flat disc compensator (I call it a "pancake compensator") I can't imagine it's going to stand up to those numbers. They weren't strong enough for the factory 96 cubic inch, which is why they started putting in the Screamin' Eagle compensator's as standard starting in 2012. Thanks for asking.
The Screamin Eagle compensator has been a very good upgrade and is still performing as it should. Hot starts are still solid and quick. The Hayden tensioner has around 7,000 miles on it and is showing minimal wear. I did remove it due to my primary chain has stretched beyond what the shims that came with it can adjust to. I could have ordered more shims but I opted to reinstall the factory tensioner which, due to it being a newer revision, I have not found a reason not to continue using it without any harm to the rest of the machine. It is my opinion that pre 2009 automatic tensioners with coarser etched grooves were causing too much tension to be applied.
Check out Oregon hot bike hydraulic tensioner. Moonshine Harley-Davidson had a. Video for decent clutch compensator and tensioner they were putting in a bike. Baker compensator ( although dark horse has one I think I’m going to use ) Oregon hot bike tensioner Some clutch basket and clutch plates Video worth watching especially if you stopped using Hayden tensioner ?? I dont know I’m learning as I go here. Just got into harleys 2 months ago. Have always rode sport bikes in the past. But I’m 46 now so are riding a cruiser I dont think I’d ever go back to sport bikes. Unless I was to just go for a little ride fast.
The Hayden tensioner worked fine and is a good design. I was told by others to swap out the factory tensioner ASAP and I did, but after reading up on the fact that there are now 3 revisions of the factory tensioner I believe they have worked the bugs out of them now and a version very similar is still used on the Milwaukee 8 bikes. If they were still problematic I would think that wouldn't be the case. We'll see if I'm wrong about that. You learn a lot about problems and necessary upgrades as you go as I have found. Do your own research to weed out the myths from the facts.
you have the Hayden M6 BT07 primary chain tensioner and you have to replace the Compensator ? thats scary I replaced the Compensator but replaced the primary chain tensioner at te same time with the Hayden M6 BT07 primary chain tensioner the Hayden makes a rattling noise awful ..so I guess the Compensator has nothing to do with which primary chain tensioner you have
Not really, they work independently of each other. I had to replace my compensator because the factory one was too weak and wore out. Newer style compensator can handle the power output and works fine.
I kept looking for boxes of parts that had what I needed. I think two box purchases did it for me. I wasn't in a hurry, so I could wait until cheaper parts were listed from salvage yards and such.
@@tvkslives4981 that's not a bad price. Is it the A model or the B model that requires the plastic funnel epoxied to the inner primary? I installed the A model.
Filming always makes things take longer, but probably around a couple hours. Without filming I would guess an hour to an hour and a half? It was mostly a matter of removing bolts except for the c-clip on the clutch. Are you looking to replace the compensator?
Roseguard I actually bought my parts "used" from different sources online, such as Ebay. There are some salvage businesses that strip down bikes and sell the parts off them. Safe shipping is very important though, the stator rotor magnets are made from ceramic and are very brittle. The first one I bought was damaged in shipping due to improper packing. I tried to glue magnets into it that i robbed from another stator the same as the one I removed from my bike in this video. That didn't work because of an out of balance issue. You can also inquire at your nearest Harley dealer on purchasing one.
Very nice video, I'll go to mount a compensator on my FLHT '09 , my bike has 60.000km ( 37.500 miles) do you think is better change other components ( clutch , starter..)?
I guess that would depend on the condition they are in, David. 37,500 miles of riding should not have done too much wear on the starter or clutch. The good news is that it isn't too hard to change those out after the compensator has been changed over to a Screamin Eagle unit (or Baker). You would have to remove the outer part of the compensator to remove the primary chain to replace the clutch, if necessary. Check the tension of the primary chain for a little bit of slack when you open it up to get an idea of how the automatic chain tensioner is doing. Do you have a feeling that either one is not functioning properly? Thanks for checking out my video, and good luck to you!
No, the only problem I have is the strarting when engine is hot, is often difficult like you have described in your previous video, it seems the starter loosely the connection. Anyway I'll go to HD dealer next monday, I suppose they will install SE unit.
DavideGalasio when the stock compensator springs weaken it allows the primary chain sprocket on the engine to rotate forwards and backwards, which it shouldn't be able to do freely like that, and that makes it harder for the starter to stay engaged withe the clutch which is trying to turn the engine over. You may find that after you swap out your compensator the starter is still ok. Check the starter teeth on the starter and clutch for badly worn or broken teeth. A slight curve on the starter teeth seems to help engagement.
Porkchop's Papi I'm not aware of anyone reporting a before and after rimary chain tensioner comparison dyno run, but I haven't noticed any decrease in power after the swap.
Hey there Mark, as you’ve changed back to factory compensator, I don’t suppose you’d want to sell me one of them there medium Belville washers that fitted the screaming eagle would you ???
Steve, in a later video I put the Screamin Eagle back in with a different magnet rotor that I had acquired online. I also used 3 medium spring washers in mine instead of the factory 2. If you have time and patience to wait, salvage places will post those parts for sale, and that's how I got mine. Good luck to you, Steve!
Honestly surprised H-D still used SAE fasteners on the year 2007. Are new bikes still using SAE fasteners ? YUP, your compensator IT'S TOASTED. BLUE Loctite it's a MUST on any V-TWIN powered motorcycle, I use it on mine all the time. Even tho I don't own a Harley here I'am watching, your videos. The variety it's very entertaining, keep up the different content, style and simple xplanations. There's a fellow called Mustie(?) here in YT that does more less the same interesting content.
I would suggest wile you have the inner cover out. Go a head and modify your inner primary to remove the rotor with it in place. It will save you time and money if and when your stator goes bad. I replaced one on my 2009 ultra classic and I was able to remove the rotor with the inner primary in place. However when I did my wife’s 2009 soft tail the rotor would not clear the inner cover. It will now. Like I said it’s very simple to do when it’s off the bike already.
Thanks for the comment, Jim. While that does give you easier access to the inner primary and remove the filings away from the bike, I am thinking an advantage with it still on the bike is knowing when you've removed enough material to slide the parts out without going too far. Or not having to remove the inner primary at all and save from buying new bolts and seals. How did you check to see when you had ground enough away?
Steve Johnson this is true. I in fact ruined that torque wrench by over-stressing it, so now I use that one to break fasteners loose, and I bought a new one that is only used within its limits. Maybe Santa will drop off a breaker bar for me this year! Lol
Sorry to hear it, Eddie. At least now you know what's involved. Thank you for subscribing, I appreciate it! Ride safe and I hope you get lots of smiles per gallon!
@@-MrRichBiker1967 I was wondering if it was the gasket causing mine to stick and yours to fall off. I had it open a couple of times before this was shot. It just holds on good, I guess? I use the Nickel in the gap at the cable housing to adjust cable, and 3/4 on the nut for clutch pull. All good there.
@@-MrRichBiker1967 no, I've had it opened up at least a couple times before this. First time was to adjust clutch and install a Hayden primary chain tensioner after I bought the bike in 2017.
No matter how i tried, no way that the rotor was coming of without removing the inner cover. I made a long 1/4” allen key, with a ball shaped end, with that key i could loosen the bolts of the starter, so that the oil tank stayed in place. To get some more play with the allen key, i turn the bolts of the oil tank loose. Now i can take of the inner cover without grinding and swearing 🤬
Hey Peter, was that a softail you have? And you got to the starter without removing the horseshoe oil tank? If so please advise me on how you did it. I've heard you can get at the rear starter bolt from the rear wheel well.
Hi Chuck, it is possible to reach the starterbolts from the right side☝🏼 I have a ‘07 softail, if it matters. First: get the battery out! You need a strong led torch, and you have to loosen the bolts of the oiltank, so you can move the oiltank a little. Than i made a 20” long 1/4 Allen key with a ball chaped end, so you can reach the head of the bolt in an angle. You need to spot the bolts with the led torch, and move the Allen key through the gap between the gearbox and the tank. Believe me, it's possible. After loosen the bolts, leave them in place, because it's almost impossible to put them back in place. I've made the Allen key of a piece of thin steel pipe (inside 6 mm and out 10 mm) in one side i pressed and spotwelded the Allen key. I welded a nut (in my case 17mm) on the other end of the Allen key, so the bolts can be fastened with a torque wrench. Good luck 👍🏻 Let me know if it worked for you☝🏼
Porkchop's Papi I do and had to use it to switch back to the factory compensator unit. As everyone states, it didn't take much to get the wiggle room needed.
The only gasket I reused is the primary chain cover gasket. I bought it new, but have reused it in putting it back together a few times now without a leak. I wiped it down to remove grit and as much oil as I could.
RevBiker Big D Thats exactly what i did. Put a Baker Compensator and a Baker Attitude manual tensioner in my 08 Ultra and haven’t looked back . Bakers are way better designed and top notch quality
HARLEY JUST COULDN'T MAKE ARE LIFE a LITTLE BIT FUCKING HARDER, LIKE IT'S NOT ENOUGH WORK ALREADY to CHANGE OUT. BY LEAVING ENOUGH SPACE TO PULL OUT the COMPENSATOR WITHOUT REMOVING the INNER PRIMARY ! That WOULD BE ASKING to MUCH , I GUESS 🤔😒🤨
wobbly sauce as my luck would have it, I'll be doing just that not too long after putting in the Screamin Eagle unit due to the stator rotor causing out of balance vibrations.
Ohio Harley Rider , yes, I did inspect the splines on the clutch basket, some of the outer edges were worn off, but not enough to not reuse it. It will be shown in the next video I upload.
A buddy of mine just change the stator on his own ein touring bike when you pull the rotor out it catches all you have to do is pull a little harder and it will come out you don't have to shave nothing you don't have to take the inner primary off you people need to check your facts before you go through all this work
Jimmy Flowers your buddy either got lucky or a previous owner already ground the lip off. It DOES have to be ground down if you want to leave inner primary on.
I do like the Goldwing also but once you take off all the plastic there is about 2000 miles of wiring under the covers. My buddy does all his own work on the Gwing and man o man. I used to work on corporate jets and the darn Gwing has to be a runner up on hidden wiring. But they are awesome bikes.
If anyone watching this didn't know he misspoke the size of the torx screws holding the inspection/ derby cover ?..... You shouldn't be trying to change your own compensator. Good video. It's a shame douchebags feel like they have to judge your video abilities based on a single misspoken socket size. Always someone who thinks they can do it better..... Where's his video???
By far the best most comprehensive Harley compensator video on TH-cam! This helped me diagnose and fix a 99 springer softail to a tea!!
This video just helped me to change the crankshaft seal. Very informative
This video is spot on. My bike made same noise, same issue. The example shown was exactly same condition as mine with slop in the compensator. The disassembly shown helped me a TON. I knew exactly what to expect and how to do it. Perfect. Thank you!
Mark, thanks for the detailed video. Just did my 09 Ultra and it's so much better; no more clunking. Awesome. I installed the Screaming Eagle Compensator like you but left the springs as they came and it worked great. Just rode over 2,000 miles to Sturgis and around and back with no problems whatsoever. I love guys that just get in there and get 'er done. Props buddy!!!
Glad to hear it, Joe. The main reason I added an extra spring is that I have a previously used setup that came from another bike and I did not expect that spring pack to have the same tension as a brand new pack. It's still doing ok, no issues yet. How was Sturgis?! That's some good mileage you put on to get there and back. Good for you on diving in and "git'n 'er done"! I still feel it is well worth the effort.
Thank you for taking the time to make this Video Mark! I enjoyed watching it 👍
I praise you sir! Thanks for helping people like me who are not so competent!
I hope it helps to understand what's involved. Thank you.
I agree with mowermedic. These videos helped me a lot on my 09 FLHTCU. Thanks for taking the time to put this out there.
Thank you for saying so, Joe. Much appreciated.
2008 dyna FXD.SE upgrade.I ground the inner primary w a Die grinder to get the rotor off.I opted to grind rather than remove the Inner prrimary .It was about an 1/8 of an inch but still has plenty of meat left.Clutch basket did not have to come out .Now If I need to change the Stator later its not hours its minutes.Thank for the Vid.
Thank you for the comment! I actually ended up grinding mine as well due to the rotor that I installed was out of balance. You're right, it didn't take much grinding with a Dremel to get the rotor to slide by, and easier to replace stator if need be down the road!
You’re very good, and the explanation so clear , very useful
Hello, very good videos, you have made it very clear how to change the compensator, and I will do it. I wanted to ask you a question, what size are the compensator nut and the clutch nut? and the one with the screming eagles compensator, is it a torx t70 ?, thank you very much.
Hello Fernando, I'm very sorry to say I did not make a note of what size those nuts are. My compensator has the hex bolt instead of torx, so I do not know that size either. Good luck to you my friend!
Can you just put some sort of sticky on the old bolts for the inner primary
Great video...Getting ready to "look" at this on an 04 RK while changing out the tensioner...Love the homemade wedge.
Matt, you have a different style compensator for your 04, matched up to the 88 cubic inch motor, so you shouldn't have any issues waiting for you inside. Shouldn't being the key word. Let me know. Thanks!
Mark Young - Outside The Box
Thank you so much! Part 1 to 3 was a great help! Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the idea of the block. Mine is an 03 fxdl and Ive been trying to get the big nut off the compensator half the damn day. I'll try your idea in the morning.
I need to see your video on replacing the magnets
Reattaching the magnets is near impossible to balance the weight of them. Not worth the effort.
Yes I heard you say that later in the video thanks
I reused the bolts, but my james gasket kit came with new seals for all the bolts! Just an FYI, those seals on the bolts are replaceable, and cheap!
Do you recall the socket size needed for the comp nut? I know the clutch is 1 3/16”.
I don't recall I'm sorry to say. It was a common size though.
No worries at all sir, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Be well.
I've been wondering why it is that in some videos, I see them placing an Allen wrench inside that clutch rod while using a wrench to loosen the nut? If you are not adjusting the clutch, is it okay not to do that?
While it's available to do that with the cover(s) off, that adjustment can bone to verify the clutch rod has the proper free play. Usually after that it's wise to check the clutch lever free play as these parts work together as a team. It's not a difficult process to go through and has its benefits.
@@contact4mwy7 I am still a bit confused. I am in the process of removing the clutch basket to enable the compensator to come off. Can I just slide out the mainshaft without having to hold the clutch rod in place with the Allen key? If the mainshaft and clutch rod come out merely by removing the retaining ring, why do some people use an Allen key to hold the clutch rod?
@@CarlosGarcia-ls4hn the only reason I know of is if they are adjusting the free play. Just as in my video, if you remove the snap ring the outer shaft and clutch rod slide right out, exposing the reverse threaded nut to remove the clutch. The outer shaft accepts an Allen key and is threaded through the round plate with the nut acting as a jam nut to keep it from tightening or loosening which would throw off the free play it needs. You do not need to use an Allen key and wrench on that assembly to remove the clutch basket.
One bit of advice, get a gun cleaning kit, .177, .22, .25, 9mm, .45, and 12 ga all will be your friends. Use those and a drill to clean out the threads of any hardware that had locktite on them. Use a wire brush, the wire wheel on the bench grinder, or a dremel on hardware you are able to reuse.
Thanks for that advice, Tobin.
Great video Mark, really informative and well done! Salute!
The spacer and seal on the crank in middle of stator came out on mine. Can you tell me if the seal goes in flat side toward case or open side with rubber toward the case pls?
Phil, this is what my copy of a 2011 service manual states. e. With the lettering on the oil seal facing outward, slide
sprocket shaft spacer and oil seal over pilot shaft until
it contacts bearing bore.
f. Slide SPROCKET SHAFT OIL SEAL
INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39361-B) over pilot shaft
until it contacts oil seal.
Hi again Mark one more question did eliminating the small beveled and adding a 3rd medium one work for you? I bought a SE Compensator just like yours but after installing it I still have rattle and clunking sometumes at start up. Thank you for your time
I have since added the small thrust washer back where it belongs along with the extra medium Belleville spring washer. After trying it without the extra spring I can tell the engine pulses are more present at lowered rpms, but not harsh, along with a more solid startup without the thrashing. Is this because the total spring pack is weak? Possibly. Maybe a brand new set wouldn't need the extra spring with it, but I'm satisfied with how this setup is working so far.
Did you consider to go with solid sprocket in stead of compensator?
I did consider it but saw posts on forums that said the ride was more shaky and you had to stay up in the RPMs to minimize the effects of the engine pulsing. I had installed an extra spring washer in my Screamin Eagle compensator among the medium spring washers and it gave the effect of passing more of the engine pulses each time the pistons fired. So I reconfigured them so that the extra was on the inside and that lessened it. Now I am running a totally stock configuration and it rides much smoother. I would think that anyone who goes to a solid sprocket will miss the smoothness of how it was running before. Then there are the considerations of what the pulses are doing to the crankshaft and the rest of the drivetrain.
@@contact4mwy7 thank you
I got my rotor and stator off without removing my clutch basket or my inner primary. It can be done. You just gotta want it
Video of you doing it?
Hello Mark,
How is the bike running since you installed the medium Boneville Washer? I had 2 small washers and still hear noise so I wanted to see if you’re method did the trick. Thanks, G
I removed the extra spring washer to try it as stock and ended up putting it back in. The clutch engagements and motor pulses were smoother, but startups were noisy again. So far so good.
@@contact4mwy7 Thanks for the Quick Response Mark I appreciate it but wouldn’t that make it too wide . Did it change depth and chain alignment.?
I get asked that a lot. The spring pack doesn't regulate the chain alignment, the parts along the shaft do, including the stator disc.
@@contact4mwy7 Sounds Great Mark, I just reinstalled mine back in and used the medium Washer like you did but also used the small Washer Spring but reversed it so it’s just being used as a shim. So far so good no Noise but a nice long ride will tell the Story. Thank you again for you’re Videos! Very Helpful. G
@@gvorreas let me know how your ride goes!
You're lucky ! my Softail did about 6000miles and did the compensator, and I needed to replace the clutch basket and starter pinion because of broken teeth . I have gouges in the back primary cover near the alternator. No oil leak causing ones and the coils checked out ok, but the job shouldn't need doing on such a low mileage bike. The primary bolts can be reused if you replace those O rings- but new bolts are cheap.
Boy, the softail is a lot more work. I had to remove floor boards, exhaust, oil tank just to get at one damn starter bolt.
I have the big bore stage 3 and the compensator on my 05 keeps going loose and I'm not seeing the SE version for the 88
If your taking the inner primary off you may as well just go open belt drive. Dry clutch kinda sucks but its easy to change plates though.
It looks like the clutch was overheated from the discoloration on the input shaft and the blueing on the clutch actuator rod
Question: If the problem with the compensator is that little "spring" getting weak why not just replace the spring instead of going as far as you did?
I think you're talking about the original compensator, which I couldn't find any new springs for, only salvaged spring packs. Then after so many miles I would have to replace them again due to its design not being intended for a motor larger than 88 ci.
@@contact4mwy7 got a 2008 Rocker C with 96B hoping this isn't in my future. thanks
I would say it all depends on how hard you throttle it and how much you lug it in the upper gears. Harley didn't start putting the Screamin Eagle compensator in from the factory until 2012 for the 96'ers.
Does anyone know witch order the stator plugs go in? My plug has a 123 numbers on it but the wires don’t
Ottimo video grazie dall’Italia 🇮🇹
Thanks a ton, I've searched everywhere for the leak.No one would or could say. Baught a used bike..... that makes sense about the one time use bolts... thanks again!
That rocks my world, man, you're welcome, and good luck to you!
I've used gasket sealant on the underside of the inner primary bolts. HD bolt kit is a rip off
What size is the compensator sprocket bolt?
If the newer Screamin Eagle bolt is the same as I believe, it is 13/16" socket. There may also be a metric size that converts to that?
Depends on the year...the 103c.i. compensator bolt takes a 1-1/2 inch socket. They really beefed it up haha!
BrewCityRider thanks for the reply. My current stock comp bolt is the smaller size non-screaming eagle comp. Iʻm installing a Baker comp and have the correct size socket for it. I also have a newer model stator to install behind the Baker comp. Chain tensioner has already been upgraded also.
Nice job. Great camera work too. They make a special tool for pulling off the stator cover, and some guys make their own, but you just pulled it off haha! Unless you have a Hulk-like grip that I don't know about, I guess those special tools aren't needed. Looks like a job I could do if I needed to. I sure as hell am not going to pay the hundreds in Harley shop labor that they would charge for this. Gonna watch part 2 now...
Hulk-Like Grip Level: Expert. Hahahaha, thanks for watching and leaving your comment.
My buddy change his stator on an 09 and it hit the inner primary cover so we called Harley they said you don't have to take the inner primary cover off all you have to do is pull really hard and it will come right out, so that's what we did and it came right out, then it went back the same way just got to wrestle it in a little bit then it just slide right in, so I thought people should know you don't have to take the inner primary cover off you don't have to grind just use some muscles and it'll come right out
Jimmy Flowers i hope so, because it’s not only the inner cover, but before that, also the battery, oil tank, starter bolts, the clutch. I’m going to try it right now. Thnks👍
@@phdzzz good luck let me know how it turns out?
Jimmy Flowers, no matter how I tried, the rotor didn’t came off, so i had to remove the inner cover. I made a long 1/4” allen key with a ball shaped end, (because of the angle) turned the bolts of the oil tank loose, to get some space between the gearbox and the oil tank, and with the long allen key i could turn the starter bolts loose. Now the inner cover is off, i could take off the rotor and springs of the old compensator. Everything is cleaned up, placed a new oil seal in the inner cover, and in about an hour my new friction plates arrive. Then put it all together again, with the Baker compensator and Baker chain tensioner. So I’m building again 😅🥳
@@phdzzz keep banging away at it you'll be happy with the Baker conversated that's what I'm running and I love it!!!
I think some inner primaries are made different? I could not get my stator cover to pass by until just enough metal was removed with the Dremel.
I saw videos of people trimming a bit the primary housing with a dremmel tool and you dont have to remove the whole housing, is like 1mm (0.0393701 inch) witch is nothing.
Thank you for the videos.
I actually ended up doing just that due to an imbalance in the rotor. I had replaced some broken magnets and found out the hard way you just can't do that without being able to properly balance it. Thank you for your comment!
How did you get the whole clutch assembly off mine seems stuck
Mine was a little stuck on the shaft when I pulled on it. I think some of the spline material that broke off was binding it up. All I can say is go easy, back and forth, and hope that whatever is in there holding it will let go. When you do get it apart let me know if you have some broken splines inside the clutch. One or two splines in mine were separated.
Hi Mark I know this video is 3 years old but my 2009 Ultra Classic needs a compensator do you by any chance know the part number of the Screaming Eagle Compensator you bought off ebay also having a problem find SE Stator Rotor. Thank you if you see this
I didn't have a part number to go by, just the years 2009-2013. For big twin, not M8. You will need to find the stator rotor (with the magnets inside it). There are two types to look at. One has a hex head main bolt, that is the earlier version, and the one I went with. The other has a torx head type main bolt which is the newer version. This version uses a plastic funnel that is glued inside the primary cover to direct oil into the end of the compensator. The hex bolt type does not need this, that's why I chose the earlier version.
Very interesting and helpful.
Hello Mark - I have a 2008 street glide with an LBP (Lozano Brothers Porting) 107 Pro Touring Kit. At the rear wheel, 110 hp/115 ft. lbs. torque. Will this compensator work on my street glide? Thanks for the videos.
I'm going to say "it should." These compensators were also used on the factory 103's, so you're not that much higher in cubic inches. That's a good amount of torque and hp! If you still have the factory flat disc compensator (I call it a "pancake compensator") I can't imagine it's going to stand up to those numbers. They weren't strong enough for the factory 96 cubic inch, which is why they started putting in the Screamin' Eagle compensator's as standard starting in 2012. Thanks for asking.
How’s SE compensator treating you ?
And Hayden tensioner
The Screamin Eagle compensator has been a very good upgrade and is still performing as it should. Hot starts are still solid and quick. The Hayden tensioner has around 7,000 miles on it and is showing minimal wear. I did remove it due to my primary chain has stretched beyond what the shims that came with it can adjust to. I could have ordered more shims but I opted to reinstall the factory tensioner which, due to it being a newer revision, I have not found a reason not to continue using it without any harm to the rest of the machine. It is my opinion that pre 2009 automatic tensioners with coarser etched grooves were causing too much tension to be applied.
Check out Oregon hot bike hydraulic tensioner. Moonshine Harley-Davidson had a. Video for decent clutch compensator and tensioner they were putting in a bike. Baker compensator ( although dark horse has one I think I’m going to use )
Oregon hot bike tensioner
Some clutch basket and clutch plates
Video worth watching especially if you stopped using Hayden tensioner ?? I dont know I’m learning as I go here. Just got into harleys 2 months ago. Have always rode sport bikes in the past. But I’m 46 now so are riding a cruiser I dont think I’d ever go back to sport bikes. Unless I was to just go for a little ride fast.
The Hayden tensioner worked fine and is a good design. I was told by others to swap out the factory tensioner ASAP and I did, but after reading up on the fact that there are now 3 revisions of the factory tensioner I believe they have worked the bugs out of them now and a version very similar is still used on the Milwaukee 8 bikes. If they were still problematic I would think that wouldn't be the case. We'll see if I'm wrong about that. You learn a lot about problems and necessary upgrades as you go as I have found. Do your own research to weed out the myths from the facts.
Thank you for your great video on this by the way. This is the best how to video if seen!!! How a blessed day my friend.
Would 2010 Harley Davidson fatboy low 96ci have the good automatic tensioner you are referring to that’s on the m8s currently ?
Great video Sir thank you!!!
Thank you for saying so, it makes my day!
you have the Hayden M6 BT07 primary chain tensioner and you have to replace the Compensator ? thats scary I replaced the Compensator but replaced the primary chain tensioner at te same time with the Hayden M6 BT07 primary chain tensioner the Hayden makes a rattling noise awful ..so I guess the Compensator has nothing to do with which primary chain tensioner you have
Not really, they work independently of each other. I had to replace my compensator because the factory one was too weak and wore out. Newer style compensator can handle the power output and works fine.
I appreciate the video, very helpful. I do have a question tho. What’s a reasonable price to pay for a used SE compensator
I kept looking for boxes of parts that had what I needed. I think two box purchases did it for me. I wasn't in a hurry, so I could wait until cheaper parts were listed from salvage yards and such.
I found a set for $200. HD has them for $400.
@@tvkslives4981 that's not a bad price. Is it the A model or the B model that requires the plastic funnel epoxied to the inner primary? I installed the A model.
To be honest I’m not sure
@@tvkslives4981 I believe the A model has a regular hex head bolt, and the B model utilises an Allen head bolt.
I have 50,000 miles on my hayden and it’s just fine.
Hey mark ..how long did it take you to get to this point in real time?
Filming always makes things take longer, but probably around a couple hours. Without filming I would guess an hour to an hour and a half? It was mostly a matter of removing bolts except for the c-clip on the clutch. Are you looking to replace the compensator?
Do you have the Troque Spec sheet? I would love to use it if you could send to me?
Evan, search for a shop manual to download, that's where I got my specs.
Never reuse o-rings or gaskets. Always replace them when disassembling parts and drain plugs.
Where did you find a used Screaming Eagle compensator??
Roseguard I actually bought my parts "used" from different sources online, such as Ebay. There are some salvage businesses that strip down bikes and sell the parts off them. Safe shipping is very important though, the stator rotor magnets are made from ceramic and are very brittle. The first one I bought was damaged in shipping due to improper packing. I tried to glue magnets into it that i robbed from another stator the same as the one I removed from my bike in this video. That didn't work because of an out of balance issue. You can also inquire at your nearest Harley dealer on purchasing one.
Mark Young - Outside The Box thanks
Very helpfull! Definitely very informative! Thank you
Thank you, Brian.
Very nice video, I'll go to mount a compensator on my FLHT '09 , my bike has 60.000km ( 37.500 miles) do you think is better change other components ( clutch , starter..)?
I guess that would depend on the condition they are in, David. 37,500 miles of riding should not have done too much wear on the starter or clutch. The good news is that it isn't too hard to change those out after the compensator has been changed over to a Screamin Eagle unit (or Baker). You would have to remove the outer part of the compensator to remove the primary chain to replace the clutch, if necessary. Check the tension of the primary chain for a little bit of slack when you open it up to get an idea of how the automatic chain tensioner is doing. Do you have a feeling that either one is not functioning properly? Thanks for checking out my video, and good luck to you!
No, the only problem I have is the strarting when engine is hot, is often difficult like you have described in your previous video, it seems the starter loosely the connection. Anyway I'll go to HD dealer next monday, I suppose they will install SE unit.
DavideGalasio when the stock compensator springs weaken it allows the primary chain sprocket on the engine to rotate forwards and backwards, which it shouldn't be able to do freely like that, and that makes it harder for the starter to stay engaged withe the clutch which is trying to turn the engine over. You may find that after you swap out your compensator the starter is still ok. Check the starter teeth on the starter and clutch for badly worn or broken teeth. A slight curve on the starter teeth seems to help engagement.
Mark Young - Outside The Box h
Does anybody know how much power the chain tensioner robb's from your engine?
Porkchop's Papi I'm not aware of anyone reporting a before and after rimary chain tensioner comparison dyno run, but I haven't noticed any decrease in power after the swap.
Am I missing something. Why would u pull the inner primary off if nothing gets changed under the stator cover. Why take off the stator cover ?
Alrighty watched the vid part 2. Looks like there’s a new screaming eagle stator cover and you are not re using the original stator cover
Good video
I need to see the video where he replaced the magnets someone help me I need to see it
Hey there Mark, as you’ve changed back to factory compensator, I don’t suppose you’d want to sell me one of them there medium Belville washers that fitted the screaming eagle would you ???
Steve, in a later video I put the Screamin Eagle back in with a different magnet rotor that I had acquired online. I also used 3 medium spring washers in mine instead of the factory 2. If you have time and patience to wait, salvage places will post those parts for sale, and that's how I got mine. Good luck to you, Steve!
Honestly surprised H-D still used SAE fasteners on the year 2007. Are new bikes still using SAE fasteners ?
YUP, your compensator IT'S TOASTED.
BLUE Loctite it's a MUST on any V-TWIN powered motorcycle, I use it on mine all the time.
Even tho I don't own a Harley here I'am watching, your videos. The variety it's very entertaining, keep up the different content, style and simple xplanations.
There's a fellow called Mustie(?) here in YT that does more less the same interesting content.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good Job with the video.
I would suggest wile you have the inner cover out. Go a head and modify your inner primary to remove the rotor with it in place. It will save you time and money if and when your stator goes bad. I replaced one on my 2009 ultra classic and I was able to remove the rotor with the inner primary in place. However when I did my wife’s 2009 soft tail the rotor would not clear the inner cover. It will now. Like I said it’s very simple to do when it’s off the bike already.
Thanks for the comment, Jim. While that does give you easier access to the inner primary and remove the filings away from the bike, I am thinking an advantage with it still on the bike is knowing when you've removed enough material to slide the parts out without going too far. Or not having to remove the inner primary at all and save from buying new bolts and seals. How did you check to see when you had ground enough away?
never re-use a gasket that is prone to leaking.
Good advice, Jerry. I do break that rule from time to time.
I looked all over my Moto Guzzi and couldn't find a compensator. Why doesn't Hardly put a good one in to start with ?
That's what I was wondering about mine. Or at least replace the one that was doomed to fail and cover that!
@@contact4mwy7 I'm guessing that it's some kind of cush drive for the primary ??
Thanks for the video - but man, you're killing your torque wrench using it to break nuts loose. Use a breaker bar.
Steve Johnson this is true. I in fact ruined that torque wrench by over-stressing it, so now I use that one to break fasteners loose, and I bought a new one that is only used within its limits. Maybe Santa will drop off a breaker bar for me this year! Lol
Steve Johnson he clearly stated in the video that he uses a junk t wrench as a breaker bar.
Thanks, Steve! About a month or so ago, I bought a breaker bar! I know, finally! Lol.
My solution take mine out with a pipe wrench with a four foot bar. Tied the bike that it dont turn with the F. bolt.
hi just subscribed. I wish would've saw this before taking it to Harley service. I would have saved #720.00 !!
Sorry to hear it, Eddie. At least now you know what's involved. Thank you for subscribing, I appreciate it! Ride safe and I hope you get lots of smiles per gallon!
Must live by a damn freeway 😅
Impact guns and Harley pie crust case bolts just don't go together
Damn bro, when was the last time you did a clutch adjustment??lol, my primary cover falls out, as soon as i undo my 5 ,T27 , screws??
Maybe you need a new gasket.
@@contact4mwy7 no it's not leaking a drop I reuse the gasket 5 times, you don't have to put a new one on every time!
You just haven't took it off, to do an adjustment correct!!!!
@@-MrRichBiker1967 I was wondering if it was the gasket causing mine to stick and yours to fall off. I had it open a couple of times before this was shot. It just holds on good, I guess? I use the Nickel in the gap at the cable housing to adjust cable, and 3/4 on the nut for clutch pull. All good there.
@@-MrRichBiker1967 no, I've had it opened up at least a couple times before this. First time was to adjust clutch and install a Hayden primary chain tensioner after I bought the bike in 2017.
Grind the primary case 😂😂😂😂😂😂 it take 15min to remove the clutch and the ring gear -_-
No matter how i tried, no way that the rotor was coming of without removing the inner cover. I made a long 1/4” allen key, with a ball shaped end, with that key i could loosen the bolts of the starter, so that the oil tank stayed in place. To get some more play with the allen key, i turn the bolts of the oil tank loose. Now i can take of the inner cover without grinding and swearing 🤬
Hey Peter, was that a softail you have? And you got to the starter without removing the horseshoe oil tank? If so please advise me on how you did it. I've heard you can get at the rear starter bolt from the rear wheel well.
Hi Chuck, it is possible to reach the starterbolts from the right side☝🏼
I have a ‘07 softail, if it matters.
First: get the battery out!
You need a strong led torch, and you have to loosen the bolts of the oiltank, so you can move the oiltank a little. Than i made a 20” long 1/4 Allen key with a ball chaped end, so you can reach the head of the bolt in an angle. You need to spot the bolts with the led torch, and move the Allen key through the gap between the gearbox and the tank. Believe me, it's possible.
After loosen the bolts, leave them in place, because it's almost impossible to put them back in place.
I've made the Allen key of a piece of thin steel pipe (inside 6 mm and out 10 mm) in one side i pressed and spotwelded the Allen key. I welded a nut (in my case 17mm) on the other end of the Allen key, so the bolts can be fastened with a torque wrench.
Good luck 👍🏻
Let me know if it worked for you☝🏼
Just grind the lip offtheinnner primary.
BUY A HONDA
Christ dude, don't you have a dremmel, or even a file ?
Porkchop's Papi I do and had to use it to switch back to the factory compensator unit. As everyone states, it didn't take much to get the wiggle room needed.
Why Harley is always in the workshop?
Because there's something wrong with them? Lol
Something's wrong too often
@@Auvoelias As an owner, it seems that way.
There is NO tensioner in this system to keep the rear drive belt under tension...
Only the position of the rear wheel axle regulates the drive belt tension.
Never reuse gaskets or O-rings when disassembling. Always use new gaskets and o-rings on reassembly.
The only gasket I reused is the primary chain cover gasket. I bought it new, but have reused it in putting it back together a few times now without a leak. I wiped it down to remove grit and as much oil as I could.
Buy one from Baker not one Harley!
RevBiker Big D Thats exactly what i did. Put a Baker Compensator and a Baker Attitude manual tensioner in my 08 Ultra and haven’t looked back . Bakers are way better designed and top notch quality
actually that's not true, I know 3 different people who have removed defective Baker units at this point. Baker had a whole run of defective springs.
I'm going with the drag specialties compensator and the hayden chain tensioner...thats what the budget calls for!
Every HD I have ever owned has the worthless heel shifter. Totally for looks on my bike.
HARLEY JUST COULDN'T MAKE ARE LIFE a LITTLE BIT FUCKING HARDER, LIKE IT'S NOT ENOUGH WORK ALREADY to CHANGE OUT. BY LEAVING ENOUGH SPACE TO PULL OUT the COMPENSATOR WITHOUT REMOVING the INNER PRIMARY ! That WOULD BE ASKING to MUCH , I GUESS 🤔😒🤨
You can see why people just shave it.
wobbly sauce as my luck would have it, I'll be doing just that not too long after putting in the Screamin Eagle unit due to the stator rotor causing out of balance vibrations.
Mark Young - Outside The Box I removed my comment because i see u already did inspection on clutch basket... 👍🏻
Ohio Harley Rider , yes, I did inspect the splines on the clutch basket, some of the outer edges were worn off, but not enough to not reuse it. It will be shown in the next video I upload.
A buddy of mine just change the stator on his own ein touring bike when you pull the rotor out it catches all you have to do is pull a little harder and it will come out you don't have to shave nothing you don't have to take the inner primary off you people need to check your facts before you go through all this work
Jimmy Flowers your buddy either got lucky or a previous owner already ground the lip off. It DOES have to be ground down if you want to leave inner primary on.
YOUR COOL AS SHIT, BRO..TY FOR VIDEO!!
Just get new gaskets and o rings…. It’s not worth reusing these inexpensive parts…
)
Man!... what grief!!! Goldwing looks better n better. Lol!
I do like the Goldwing also but once you take off all the plastic there is about 2000 miles of wiring under the covers. My buddy does all his own work on the Gwing and man o man. I used to work on corporate jets and the darn Gwing has to be a runner up on hidden wiring. But they are awesome bikes.
Yuck
Using a Torque Wrench for a Breaker Bar? Lol...
Yes, it's an old one that I don't use for torque purposes. If you had paid attention you would have heard that. Lol.
wash yo bike!
Dude, the inspection cover Torx srews are #27...NOT #25. You should not be DOING HOW TO VIDEOS.
And YOU SHOULD DO HOW TO VIDEOS!
If anyone watching this didn't know he misspoke the size of the torx screws holding the inspection/ derby cover ?..... You shouldn't be trying to change your own compensator. Good video. It's a shame douchebags feel like they have to judge your video abilities based on a single misspoken socket size. Always someone who thinks they can do it better..... Where's his video???