No nonsense. Perfect showcase of the resin. I was really skeptical that I would be able to print anything for mechanical or practical but you've alleviated my fears with this video.
Thanks for your feedback. Glad that was helpful for you. If you need a tough resin with plenty of flexibility as well, you might like to check out the Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra. I did the same test with that resin. th-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/w-d-xo.html
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I’ve thought about ABS V2 and will definitely try it. Will probably order some when I next re-stock. So far the Tough resin has been working really well. 😀
i have an elegoo saturn 3 with black anycubic tough resin 2 and having problems with warping. can you share your settings? Im using Voxeldance Tango 4.0.
Sure, these are settings for the Anycubic D2. Exposure 2.5sec. Lift 5mm @ 2mm/sec. Bottom layers 6 @ 28sec exposure. I've found that these settings work for just about any resin I use with the D2. It's an awesome printer. DLP has become my preferred printer type because it just seems to provide the most reliable prints for whatever I'm printing...and it's silent. No fans. And no LCD to damage. Just a solid piece of glass.
How opaque or translucent is the part? Also how much distance is there between the inside diameter and the outside diameter? I'm trying to create parts for my project and ABS-like resin is proving to be inadequate as well as too brittle for the job
Thanks for your question. The wall thickness is 3mm. The grey resin is opaque. If you’re after something a bit more translucent, then you can start with a white base and add some grey. It looks great. I made a video about that here th-cam.com/video/EfQXWcAqLCk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0yZSH3pGIFm3dJUr
Hey, I found out that: Anycubic basic - brittle Anycubic tough - Solid / Flexible 20:80 mix basic:tough - Solid part but with enough flexibility to not shatter. Try to experiment with the ratios, depending on how much flex you want.
You are much better off doing FDM as you are always more prone to sudden failure with SLA (which might still be acceptable depending on your intended use). Unless this is a compressive force, SLA tends to do okay in that application.
Hi. Nice Video. How many seconds / minutes ... do you cure flexible resin in order to keep their properties? The more seconds curing the less flexibility keeps. Isnt it? I guess there must be an optimum timing for curing so you cure properly the piece and do not loss flexibility.
Hi, thanks for your feedback and your question. The part in this video is post-cured for 5min. There was some trial and error in deciding on that time, but it seems to provide a good balance of flexibility and rigidity. I think each item you make will have an ideal post-cure time. But I use 5-6min for all my designs and it seems to work.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I would have thought 5 minutes were too much time for curing. Thought it would cause a loss of flexibility. Ill try 5 min aprox then. :)
are you planning to test their new tough line? they now have tough resin 2.0 and tough resin Ultra which is even more like an additive to make things more bendable. the ultra is pretty pricy, i bought 3 bottles and trying to find the best use case scenario (maybe adding it to craftsman DLP resin to help with the brittle problem).
Hey, thanks for asking. Yes, I'm planning to test it because I have a specific use for tough resin. The current tough resin works well, but I'm keen to see how the new tough resins from Anycubic compare. I'll be making a video about that soon.
How flexible is it? Im very interested. Been trying to find a resin that has enough stiffness to be useful but with just enough flex to not be brittle like Nylon Black Sirya tech
It’s got great flexibility and stiffness. Especially for working parts that take some stress. I’ve had more success with Anycubic tough than SIRAYA Tech. Definitely worth a try.
@@kwad3d10 Don’t quite know the difference yet, but I’m running my first test prints of Ultra now. I think it might be more flex under stress whilst still holding shape. A higher threshold before actually fracturing. I’ll know more soon.
I welcome your wondering. It’s a passion project. MK1 was printed in filament. Experimentation, testing, external validation take time. MK2 transitioned to resin. A whole new process with different tolerances. A few months of testing, different resins etc. and now MK3…😀
Well it's good to know that mine will take a little punishment. I've used the new version a few times now and it works just as well as the first one, but rest assured, I won't be hitting anything with a hammer. 🤨🤣 Thanks again Colin. 👍
I used the settings recommended on the Anycubic website. 2.5 second normal exposure time. I've actually found that this setting works for just about any resin I use with the D2 printer. 😀
The wife ordered me me a Anycubic Photon Mono 2 + 1KG resin for Xmas, it was going to be late so they sent me an extra 1kg of resin as apology, turns out it was the UV tough in translucent green. Not the best colour but since I have no idea about resin printing for the models and gear boxes I want to print, the Tough resin is probably going to be the best choice. Went looking for a review and found another Ozzie ch. Subbed. If they had translucent Red, Yellow, Blue I could make Xmas lights for next year.
Hey, thanks for dropping a comment. That printer / resin combo should work well for you. Resin printing can be tricky when getting started, but it’s awesome once you get the hang of it. Happy holiday season.
Gomz Addams comes to mind blowing things up haha, but more sanely great test and that should be enough, as I used pvc fittings on my tracksaw with heatgun and it works well enough and easy to replace again but yours is more elegant for sure
Thank you!! I only use it for the most part after Initial Test and print scale turbos that spin up to 100k rpm with compressed air or the turbine side. With positive boots enough to break a nitrile glove with pressure. So wanna see if anycubic or sunlu can be mixed to create better forgiving properties
Professionally shot, edited, and published. Your videos deserve just as much, if not more, than the popular resin TH-camrs!
Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate the feedback.
No nonsense. Perfect showcase of the resin. I was really skeptical that I would be able to print anything for mechanical or practical but you've alleviated my fears with this video.
Thanks for your feedback. Glad that was helpful for you. If you need a tough resin with plenty of flexibility as well, you might like to check out the Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra. I did the same test with that resin. th-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for this test and for making such a concise yet informative video
Thank you for leaving such nice feedback. Glad you got value out of the demonstration. 😀
Great video, just received an anycubic printer and im wondering which resin would be better, did you test the abs v2?
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I’ve thought about ABS V2 and will definitely try it. Will probably order some when I next re-stock. So far the Tough resin has been working really well. 😀
@@ColinKlupiec i'm glad to hear that and wow, thanks for the quick response I'll be sure to look more of your videos
i have an elegoo saturn 3 with black anycubic tough resin 2 and having problems with warping. can you share your settings? Im using Voxeldance Tango 4.0.
Sure, these are settings for the Anycubic D2. Exposure 2.5sec. Lift 5mm @ 2mm/sec. Bottom layers 6 @ 28sec exposure. I've found that these settings work for just about any resin I use with the D2. It's an awesome printer. DLP has become my preferred printer type because it just seems to provide the most reliable prints for whatever I'm printing...and it's silent. No fans. And no LCD to damage. Just a solid piece of glass.
How opaque or translucent is the part? Also how much distance is there between the inside diameter and the outside diameter? I'm trying to create parts for my project and ABS-like resin is proving to be inadequate as well as too brittle for the job
Thanks for your question. The wall thickness is 3mm. The grey resin is opaque. If you’re after something a bit more translucent, then you can start with a white base and add some grey. It looks great. I made a video about that here th-cam.com/video/EfQXWcAqLCk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0yZSH3pGIFm3dJUr
Hey, I found out that:
Anycubic basic - brittle
Anycubic tough - Solid / Flexible
20:80 mix basic:tough - Solid part but with enough flexibility to not shatter.
Try to experiment with the ratios, depending on how much flex you want.
@@4kocour424 Cool. I might try that.
How do you think this would hold up to constant load let's say from a torqued screw or bolt?
You are much better off doing FDM as you are always more prone to sudden failure with SLA (which might still be acceptable depending on your intended use). Unless this is a compressive force, SLA tends to do okay in that application.
Not sure. I should try running some tests. My guess would be quite good though. 😀…..not a very scientific answer, I know.
Whatever works to prove a point! Thanks for the response!
Hi. Nice Video. How many seconds / minutes ... do you cure flexible resin in order to keep their properties? The more seconds curing the less flexibility keeps. Isnt it?
I guess there must be an optimum timing for curing so you cure properly the piece and do not loss flexibility.
Hi, thanks for your feedback and your question. The part in this video is post-cured for 5min. There was some trial and error in deciding on that time, but it seems to provide a good balance of flexibility and rigidity. I think each item you make will have an ideal post-cure time. But I use 5-6min for all my designs and it seems to work.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I would have thought 5 minutes were too much time for curing. Thought it would cause a loss of flexibility. Ill try 5 min aprox then. :)
Can you do a video comparing Anycubic UV tough resin with Anycubic ABS like Pro Resin please?
Thanks for your question. It's on the list...
are you planning to test their new tough line? they now have tough resin 2.0 and tough resin Ultra which is even more like an additive to make things more bendable. the ultra is pretty pricy, i bought 3 bottles and trying to find the best use case scenario (maybe adding it to craftsman DLP resin to help with the brittle problem).
Hey, thanks for asking. Yes, I'm planning to test it because I have a specific use for tough resin. The current tough resin works well, but I'm keen to see how the new tough resins from Anycubic compare. I'll be making a video about that soon.
It’s interesting just how tough that print is from using anycubic’s tough resin,do you have a link for a review and test on the abs like resin ?
No, I haven't tested the ABS like resin yet. Although I'm getting lots of requests to do so. It's on the 'to do' list as I'm keen to try it out.
Well I’ve subbed now so I’ll wait patiently😎
How flexible is it? Im very interested. Been trying to find a resin that has enough stiffness to be useful but with just enough flex to not be brittle like Nylon Black Sirya tech
It’s got great flexibility and stiffness. Especially for working parts that take some stress. I’ve had more success with Anycubic tough than SIRAYA Tech. Definitely worth a try.
@@ColinKlupiec Ok thanks. Do you know what the difference it between the Anycubic UV tough resin and the UV tough Ultra?
@@kwad3d10 Don’t quite know the difference yet, but I’m running my first test prints of Ultra now. I think it might be more flex under stress whilst still holding shape. A higher threshold before actually fracturing. I’ll know more soon.
I wonder what's there to work on for a year and a half on such a small part. You can get the fitting tolerances down in 2-3 tries.
I welcome your wondering. It’s a passion project. MK1 was printed in filament. Experimentation, testing, external validation take time. MK2 transitioned to resin. A whole new process with different tolerances. A few months of testing, different resins etc. and now MK3…😀
Well it's good to know that mine will take a little punishment. I've used the new version a few times now and it works just as well as the first one, but rest assured, I won't be hitting anything with a hammer. 🤨🤣 Thanks again Colin. 👍
Thanks Chris. I appreciate the feedback.Glad it's working for you. 😀
Loving this series!! And you definitely have too few subscribers for the editing and watchability quality!
Thank you for such kind feedback. I appreciate it. Inspires me to make more. Have a great day and a safe holiday season. 😀
good video. question what setting did you use to print that. i use default setting, but i have try to find if someone has found better settings
I used the settings recommended on the Anycubic website. 2.5 second normal exposure time. I've actually found that this setting works for just about any resin I use with the D2 printer. 😀
Yeah, this channel needs some more subscribers!
Thanks for your feedback. 😀
The wife ordered me me a Anycubic Photon Mono 2 + 1KG resin for Xmas, it was going to be late so they sent me an extra 1kg of resin as apology, turns out it was the UV tough in translucent green. Not the best colour but since I have no idea about resin printing for the models and gear boxes I want to print, the Tough resin is probably going to be the best choice. Went looking for a review and found another Ozzie ch. Subbed. If they had translucent Red, Yellow, Blue I could make Xmas lights for next year.
Hey, thanks for dropping a comment. That printer / resin combo should work well for you. Resin printing can be tricky when getting started, but it’s awesome once you get the hang of it. Happy holiday season.
Can you do a video about anycubic abs like resin pro 2 vs anycubic uv resin tough?
Thanks for your question. I’ll add that to the list of resins to test. I’m doing more testing soon.
Gomz Addams comes to mind blowing things up haha, but more sanely great test and that should be enough, as I used pvc fittings on my tracksaw with heatgun and it works well enough and easy to replace again but yours is more elegant for sure
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. I'm amazed that new Festool saws are still coming out with the old design. 😀
Can you test this against siraya tech build?
That's a great idea. Never used it before so just looked it up. I will certainly consider this for a test. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you!! I only use it for the most part after Initial
Test and print scale turbos that spin up to 100k rpm with compressed air or the turbine side. With positive boots enough to break a nitrile glove with pressure. So wanna see if anycubic or sunlu can be mixed to create better forgiving properties
@@jammindesigns7135 Sounds awesome. Hope it works for you.
"It's fun to make stuff and then do destructive testing". Indeed it is!
Sure is. I'm printing some more stuff right now... to break even more stuff. All in the name of testing. 🤣
Well, I'm sold.
Glad you found that helpful. I’m now testing Anycubic tough Ultra. Video soon…
AMAZING video
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Thanks!
No problem!
Thank you, good video
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad you enjoyed it. 😀
great thats awesome👍
Thanks. Glad that was helpful. 😀
A previously unthought of argument for a 3D printer... you can make stuff just to destroy easily 😅😅
Hey, thanks for comment. That's an interesting perspective. 😀
nice channel
Thanks.
Why does it need to be impact resistant and extremely tought well maybe your printing a gun😊
It needs to be impact resistant because it needs to handle use with a power tool in the workshop. Other resins are too brittle and the parts break. 😀
Nylon like resin is much better just saying normal resin is too abrisive
Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.