@@Somneguy1 You might like to try the Anycubic Tough resin, as in the first generation and not the 2.0 version. I've been using that for a while and it doesn't get quite as flexible or squishy. I guess it depends on which part of the car we're talking about.
This video helped so much for figuring out if this resin would be good for moving parts/high stress parts for prototyping, thank you very much. Ive been looking at resin tendencies to try and figure out what is good for what and I've been trying to find a "Durable" resin because I currently use a "tough" one for everything (anycubics abs like pro 2) and funny enough this "Tough Ultra" is more akin to what the internet describes as "durable." thank you so much.
I am using anycubic's tough resin clear "1.0" ATM to make some flexible "spoons" for an egg-tray packing machine. What I learned is that you can play with the final elasticity of the resin by increasing or decreasing the time the UV light remains "on" during printing. At the beginning I post-cured the spoons, but this made them less elastic and brittle. The key in this application is to stop the resin from curing once the desired elasticity is achieved (if that is what you are going for, of course). That's where I'm at. My 2 cents with the 1.0 tough resin. I know there are plans to review the 3 resins side by side, that would make for a nice video. 👍.
@@ColinKlupiecIts actually the same with abs like resin from anycubic. Parts without post curing are way more flexible and after couple days part just "dries".
What should be compared for functional parts is a fully post-cured part. Functional parts will get some UV ambient light and they will eventually cure fully at least on the surface. For Tought Ultra I prefer to have longer layer curing time also, but this depends on what you really need. With shorter curing you get more details, but the print is more rubbery and support can more easily break during printing.
After giving up on resin 3d printing and focusing on FDM instead I tried out the new Saturn Ultra 4 and it looks like resin printer makers are FINALLY starting to get it. The best consumer 3d resin printer on the market today by far. Added the Tough Resin Ultra and it printed beautifully with the profile out of the box. Beautiful parts. As to toughness? Well these resin parts will get about as tough as FDM parts. This is comparible to PETG. With the machines for consumer grade #D printers getting so much better, now it is time for the materials to improve. There is a lot of room left to improve. They need to invest in more in material sciences and not just get things off the shelf and pump it out.
Great to hear the S4U is working for you. I love the tilting vat concept, but I’m a little put off by the build plate…cleaning, handling etc…am I being too picky?
@@ColinKlupiec You're not. I almost bought Anycubic M5s, because of that stupid build plate in both S4. But eventually I decided on Saturn 3. Also tiling Vat could not be a problem, but... leakage spill catastrophe can happen like once every 1-2 years and having to disassemble even once whole printer to clean from sticky resin is once too much.
Wonderful video ! Not many reviews of these out yet. I see a bottle of tough 2.0 as well, review for that coming out soon ? Could you please do a comparison of all three ?
Thanks for your kind feedback. I'm testing the Tough Resin 2.0 at the moment and will make a video about that soon. I have also considered a comparison between Tough Resin, Tough 2.0 and Tough Ultra. Stay tuned...
that is a very impressive resin, even when it breaks it doesnt fracture into many tiny pieces. just wondering how its rigidity compares to anycubic tough 1.0 and other tough resin you have used
Thanks for your question. It's less rigid than all the other tough resins I've used. You can check out my other videos for Tough 1.0 th-cam.com/video/PLtjuhRN6Wg/w-d-xo.html, and Tough 2.0 th-cam.com/video/yWO5sV2Xhws/w-d-xo.html, Antinsky High Tough th-cam.com/video/BlgTNUTLC6M/w-d-xo.html, and Ameralabs TGM-7 th-cam.com/video/od7WnLbkL0k/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps.
This looks great I have a bunch of clips I need to print I've used most elegoo resins as my printer is elegoo and there not that great. Will this work on my mars pro? And do you have a settings list?
Hi, thanks for your question. I don't see why it wouldn't work on your Mars Pro. It would be worth a try. The settings I used are on the Anycubic page for the resin. It lists the settings for all their printers. You just need to find one that is similar to your Mars Pro...I reckon the Photon Mono might be a reasonable match. And, make sure the resin is up around 25-30 degrees when you print. It's quite viscous. store.anycubic.com/products/tough-resin-ultra?ref=CK BTW, this is an affiliate link, but you can also go to anycubic.com and search for the resin page.
@ColinKlupiec awsome I will have a look at that I have designed some battle tech terrain the elegoo resin is not strong enough for them and I don't own a fdm printer haha
@@chuckysmith5255 Happy to help. I appreciate you watching the video and asking the question. It helps us all learn a little bit more about resin printing.
@ColinKlupiec definitely I run my shop on etsy and mostly print terrain peices for hero quest. But I've been messaged sevral times about this scenery I've designed but until I can get these clips strong enough I can't release it haha
This is an awesome video thank you! I have been working with the siraya tech and I was wondering how the anycubic would perform. I am using my parts at around -10. At these temperatures the siraya tech is a lot more brittle. It's time to test the anycubic I guess. Ps. the formlabs durable does a better job at these temperatures!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm testing some Siraya Tech high temperature resin at the moment, and that's super brittle. I've had a lot of success with Anycubic Tough resins. Two others I recently tested with excellent results are Antinsky High Tough resin, and Ameralabs TGM-7.
@@ColinKlupiec I saw you have more videos indeed. I'm gonna watch them soon. The high temp is very brittle indeed and hard to print. It takes a couple of trial and errors to get it right.
The 'dusting' you see is scuff marks from where the hammer makes contact. This resin exceeded my expectations. It opens many possibilities. I'm also testing Tough Resin 2.0. I'll do a comparison soon. Now I just have to think of some applications for this resin. It might work well for the rockets I'm making.
Interesting results from your ultra scientific hammer experiments Colin, perhaps tougher than tough is going to be good to put to the Venomator test… 🤔 😉
Do you mean coming loose from the build plate? If so, then there is likely a base layer exposure issue. Or, I have also found that re-levelling your build plate can help when prints come loose. Not sure about action figure parts. That's not what I print. But if you send me an STL file, I'll test it.
Hi there! Thanks for the video! this stuff is great! I plan to get this resin and use it to print small parts, like action figure joints. First thing I notice is the advertisement on this resin shows the exact thing that I was looking for. Small ball and socket joints. If its okay with you, I'd like to know your opinion on this, because I want to print ball joint with 6mm diameter and it's socket with only 1mm wall thickness. I tried some other "tough" resins but haven't tried any of the anycubic "tough" resins. all of the resins that I tested will either: 1. Crack at the socket when trying to insert the ball, or, 2.The socket flex slightly and the ball will fit inside, except over time (a day or two) the socket will expand and will not shrink back to it's original shape, thus making the ball very loose. What do you think? Will this resin do a better job? Thanks in advance!
Hi, and thanks for your question. I think either the Anycubic Tough 2.0 or the Ultra would certainly be worth trying. I've noticed on the parts that I print that the shape remains consistent over time. I'm using them in power tools so they have to maintain their shape and dimension. And when I've experimented with squashing them out of shape, and I mean really squashing them, like when they've been warmed up, they slowly come back to their original shape, or at least close to it. I'd probably try the Tough 2.0 first because the Ultra really can be quite flexible. The Tough 2.0 might allow you to 'snap' the joints together better. 1mm wall thickness shouldn't be a problem either.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I will try the Tough 2.0 first and see if it's holding up well for the joints. I'm interested in printing stuff for using power tools too like making simple jigs so maybe I'll get the Tough Ultra later if I feel like I need more flexible parts, but still Tough enough for my needs
Tougher than Tough? That's pretty tough. Seen some guys baking prints in a toaster oven, which is supposed to make prints tougher. Been watching your vids for some time and realised I need some vacuum hose fittings for the CNC mill. I just got some more Tough in black n gray last week and wondered what to use all that black for, my models are usually gray as they will be painted. It could make drone n model boat/airplane props tough.
Hey, I appreciate you watching my videos. Thanks. Those CNC ideas sound cool. I'm using resin to make small rockets at the moment. Hope to make a video about that soon. 😀
Thanks for your question. So far, the resin seems to be as precise as the original Tough resin, which I found to be precise enough for the parts I make. It’s more flexible, so you may need to factor that in. I wonder if they should have called it Tough Resin Flex.
Thank you for the fast answer! Wpuld you say its less precise than the standard or plant based resin? I could imagine that longer polymere chains come with lower resolution.
@@HR-yd5ib My pleasure. It's a good question. I'm using it to make parts that have to fit with what I would describe as 'accurate or acceptable tolerance'. Not very scientific, I know, but I've found it to be acceptable. The tough resin ultra works for the part you see in the video which is made for a 0.1mm tolerance. But...it's worth printing a reference model to test it. ...think I might try that. Stay tuned.
2.0 is harder. Good impact resistance and maintains its shape better under load. Ultra is more flexible. Better where higher bending tolerance is needed. Ultra is also much thicker (more viscous) and prints better at warmer temps around 30 degrees. But both are very good.
@@ColinKlupiec About structural strength: have you tested already Anycubic Rigid 100? It is some very new resin, that is advertised to be both strong and rigid. Specs suggest it is 2-3x stronger than ABS like and Ultra Tough and even 1.5x stronger than ABS filament, but I wonder if this is true, or it is just a very stiff and will shatter like PLA, but is just stronger than standard resin.
After review i bought it and it's pretty hard to print! testing out my first prototype on this resin, at 4s layer and 55s first layer the loosened from the bedplate 4 out of 5 models where hanging :)
Perhaps I can help. Those settings don’t look right. What printer are you using? Check the Anycubic website for settings store.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/tough-resin-ultra Also, try re-levelling your build plate. And, try to keep the temperature above 25 degrees. See if that helps.
That's frustrating. I'd still try re-levelling the build plate. I recently had problems with prints coming away from the build plate on my D2 after months of successful printing. After re-levelling, the prints stuck with no issues. Is it a large object that you are printing?
@@ColinKlupiec I did some few successful prints. Alltought the resin is pretty soft compared to the old "though" resin on thinner parts as 1mm walls just bend easily, I've cured for 1 and 2 hours and it seemed to get softer! Hehe
@@andreaslund5850 I wonder if they should have called it 'flexible' resin, or something like 'super flex'. Because it is tough, and I have a need for that. But it's also flexible. Perhaps a name like 'flexi tough' could also have been appropriate.
I hadn't thought of that because I was mostly thinking of the bumps and knocks the parts would get in normal use. But a controlled drop test is a good idea. Sounds like fun too. 😀
@@ColinKlupiec I'll agree it's getting a little bit like a lab test...like CNC Kitchen. Just pre-ordered the Saturn 4 Ultra so will be looking forward to trying epoxy-filling functional prints sometime...👍
I really didn't expect the part to get so flexible with temperatures as low as 30 degrees. wow!
It sure gets super flexible. It's almost too flexible for the part it was designed for. Thanks for watching. 😀
Bad news for me wanting to print car parts using Resin 😂
@@Somneguy1 You might like to try the Anycubic Tough resin, as in the first generation and not the 2.0 version. I've been using that for a while and it doesn't get quite as flexible or squishy. I guess it depends on which part of the car we're talking about.
This video helped so much for figuring out if this resin would be good for moving parts/high stress parts for prototyping, thank you very much. Ive been looking at resin tendencies to try and figure out what is good for what and I've been trying to find a "Durable" resin because I currently use a "tough" one for everything (anycubics abs like pro 2) and funny enough this "Tough Ultra" is more akin to what the internet describes as "durable." thank you so much.
Thanks for the feedback. I’m glad the video was helpful. 😀 Finding the right resin can be difficult.
I am using anycubic's tough resin clear "1.0" ATM to make some flexible "spoons" for an egg-tray packing machine. What I learned is that you can play with the final elasticity of the resin by increasing or decreasing the time the UV light remains "on" during printing.
At the beginning I post-cured the spoons, but this made them less elastic and brittle.
The key in this application is to stop the resin from curing once the desired elasticity is achieved (if that is what you are going for, of course). That's where I'm at.
My 2 cents with the 1.0 tough resin.
I know there are plans to review the 3 resins side by side, that would make for a nice video. 👍.
That’s really interesting. I’ll try that. Thanks for contributing to the discussion. Very helpful.
@@ColinKlupiecIts actually the same with abs like resin from anycubic. Parts without post curing are way more flexible and after couple days part just "dries".
@@Trancelebration Interesting...
What should be compared for functional parts is a fully post-cured part. Functional parts will get some UV ambient light and they will eventually cure fully at least on the surface.
For Tought Ultra I prefer to have longer layer curing time also, but this depends on what you really need. With shorter curing you get more details, but the print is more rubbery and support can more easily break during printing.
After giving up on resin 3d printing and focusing on FDM instead I tried out the new Saturn Ultra 4 and it looks like resin printer makers are FINALLY starting to get it. The best consumer 3d resin printer on the market today by far. Added the Tough Resin Ultra and it printed beautifully with the profile out of the box. Beautiful parts. As to toughness? Well these resin parts will get about as tough as FDM parts. This is comparible to PETG. With the machines for consumer grade #D printers getting so much better, now it is time for the materials to improve. There is a lot of room left to improve. They need to invest in more in material sciences and not just get things off the shelf and pump it out.
Great to hear the S4U is working for you. I love the tilting vat concept, but I’m a little put off by the build plate…cleaning, handling etc…am I being too picky?
@@ColinKlupiec You're not. I almost bought Anycubic M5s, because of that stupid build plate in both S4. But eventually I decided on Saturn 3.
Also tiling Vat could not be a problem, but... leakage spill catastrophe can happen like once every 1-2 years and having to disassemble even once whole printer to clean from sticky resin is once too much.
Wonderful video ! Not many reviews of these out yet. I see a bottle of tough 2.0 as well, review for that coming out soon ? Could you please do a comparison of all three ?
Thanks for your kind feedback. I'm testing the Tough Resin 2.0 at the moment and will make a video about that soon. I have also considered a comparison between Tough Resin, Tough 2.0 and Tough Ultra. Stay tuned...
@@ColinKlupiec thanks Colin, That would make a nice video comparing the 3 tough resins.
that is a very impressive resin, even when it breaks it doesnt fracture into many tiny pieces. just wondering how its rigidity compares to anycubic tough 1.0 and other tough resin you have used
Thanks for your question. It's less rigid than all the other tough resins I've used. You can check out my other videos for Tough 1.0 th-cam.com/video/PLtjuhRN6Wg/w-d-xo.html, and Tough 2.0 th-cam.com/video/yWO5sV2Xhws/w-d-xo.html, Antinsky High Tough th-cam.com/video/BlgTNUTLC6M/w-d-xo.html, and Ameralabs TGM-7 th-cam.com/video/od7WnLbkL0k/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps.
This looks great I have a bunch of clips I need to print I've used most elegoo resins as my printer is elegoo and there not that great. Will this work on my mars pro? And do you have a settings list?
Hi, thanks for your question. I don't see why it wouldn't work on your Mars Pro. It would be worth a try. The settings I used are on the Anycubic page for the resin. It lists the settings for all their printers. You just need to find one that is similar to your Mars Pro...I reckon the Photon Mono might be a reasonable match. And, make sure the resin is up around 25-30 degrees when you print. It's quite viscous.
store.anycubic.com/products/tough-resin-ultra?ref=CK
BTW, this is an affiliate link, but you can also go to anycubic.com and search for the resin page.
@ColinKlupiec awsome I will have a look at that I have designed some battle tech terrain the elegoo resin is not strong enough for them and I don't own a fdm printer haha
@ColinKlupiec also thank you for the speedy reply I didn't expect to hear back for a while
@@chuckysmith5255 Happy to help. I appreciate you watching the video and asking the question. It helps us all learn a little bit more about resin printing.
@ColinKlupiec definitely I run my shop on etsy and mostly print terrain peices for hero quest. But I've been messaged sevral times about this scenery I've designed but until I can get these clips strong enough I can't release it haha
This is an awesome video thank you! I have been working with the siraya tech and I was wondering how the anycubic would perform. I am using my parts at around -10. At these temperatures the siraya tech is a lot more brittle. It's time to test the anycubic I guess. Ps. the formlabs durable does a better job at these temperatures!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm testing some Siraya Tech high temperature resin at the moment, and that's super brittle. I've had a lot of success with Anycubic Tough resins. Two others I recently tested with excellent results are Antinsky High Tough resin, and Ameralabs TGM-7.
@@ColinKlupiec I saw you have more videos indeed. I'm gonna watch them soon. The high temp is very brittle indeed and hard to print. It takes a couple of trial and errors to get it right.
That looks promising, it looks like it has some dusting going on (maybe that's just from the hammer), I'm curious how well it would do in a ball joint
The 'dusting' you see is scuff marks from where the hammer makes contact. This resin exceeded my expectations. It opens many possibilities. I'm also testing Tough Resin 2.0. I'll do a comparison soon. Now I just have to think of some applications for this resin. It might work well for the rockets I'm making.
Is there a resin equivalent of that flexible rubber like filament for standard printers?
You could try TPU filament. I’ve made adapters with that successfully. Just use a heavy infill, like 80% or above.
@@ColinKlupiec that's what I was thinking of. I don't have a printer, more academically interested if there is a resin flexible equivalent
There are rubber-like resins but they are usually super expensive
Interesting results from your ultra scientific hammer experiments Colin, perhaps tougher than tough is going to be good to put to the Venomator test… 🤔 😉
Very scientific indeed. I'm getting good at dropping the hammer the same way each time. 🤣
How about articulated print?
Like action figures parts
Did this resin loose easily?
I've use uv tough resin but it loose very easily
Do you mean coming loose from the build plate? If so, then there is likely a base layer exposure issue. Or, I have also found that re-levelling your build plate can help when prints come loose. Not sure about action figure parts. That's not what I print. But if you send me an STL file, I'll test it.
@@ColinKlupiecI think he means that for articulated prints parts have to unstick from each other to move freely.
@@Trancelebration Yes, I think you might be right. 😀
Hi there! Thanks for the video! this stuff is great! I plan to get this resin and use it to print small parts, like action figure joints. First thing I notice is the advertisement on this resin shows the exact thing that I was looking for. Small ball and socket joints. If its okay with you, I'd like to know your opinion on this, because I want to print ball joint with 6mm diameter and it's socket with only 1mm wall thickness. I tried some other "tough" resins but haven't tried any of the anycubic "tough" resins. all of the resins that I tested will either: 1. Crack at the socket when trying to insert the ball, or, 2.The socket flex slightly and the ball will fit inside, except over time (a day or two) the socket will expand and will not shrink back to it's original shape, thus making the ball very loose. What do you think? Will this resin do a better job? Thanks in advance!
Hi, and thanks for your question. I think either the Anycubic Tough 2.0 or the Ultra would certainly be worth trying. I've noticed on the parts that I print that the shape remains consistent over time. I'm using them in power tools so they have to maintain their shape and dimension. And when I've experimented with squashing them out of shape, and I mean really squashing them, like when they've been warmed up, they slowly come back to their original shape, or at least close to it. I'd probably try the Tough 2.0 first because the Ultra really can be quite flexible. The Tough 2.0 might allow you to 'snap' the joints together better. 1mm wall thickness shouldn't be a problem either.
@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I will try the Tough 2.0 first and see if it's holding up well for the joints. I'm interested in printing stuff for using power tools too like making simple jigs so maybe I'll get the Tough Ultra later if I feel like I need more flexible parts, but still Tough enough for my needs
Tougher than Tough? That's pretty tough. Seen some guys baking prints in a toaster oven, which is supposed to make prints tougher. Been watching your vids for some time and realised I need some vacuum hose fittings for the CNC mill. I just got some more Tough in black n gray last week and wondered what to use all that black for, my models are usually gray as they will be painted. It could make drone n model boat/airplane props tough.
Hey, I appreciate you watching my videos. Thanks. Those CNC ideas sound cool. I'm using resin to make small rockets at the moment. Hope to make a video about that soon. 😀
Thank you for the review!
How is the precision of this resin?
Thanks for your question. So far, the resin seems to be as precise as the original Tough resin, which I found to be precise enough for the parts I make. It’s more flexible, so you may need to factor that in. I wonder if they should have called it Tough Resin Flex.
Thank you for the fast answer! Wpuld you say its less precise than the standard or plant based resin? I could imagine that longer polymere chains come with lower resolution.
@@HR-yd5ib My pleasure. It's a good question. I'm using it to make parts that have to fit with what I would describe as 'accurate or acceptable tolerance'. Not very scientific, I know, but I've found it to be acceptable. The tough resin ultra works for the part you see in the video which is made for a 0.1mm tolerance. But...it's worth printing a reference model to test it. ...think I might try that. Stay tuned.
@@ColinKlupiec would be great to hear your results! THNAKS a lot!!
I've made a video to test the precision. I was so curious myself. Hope this is helpful for you. th-cam.com/video/87JQsi6dI58/w-d-xo.html
Man gave himself a shock lol @0:40 🙂
😂
Brilliant. Thank you.
You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
So what do you think is stronger tough 2.0 or ultra
2.0 is harder. Good impact resistance and maintains its shape better under load. Ultra is more flexible. Better where higher bending tolerance is needed. Ultra is also much thicker (more viscous) and prints better at warmer temps around 30 degrees. But both are very good.
@@ColinKlupiec About structural strength: have you tested already Anycubic Rigid 100? It is some very new resin, that is advertised to be both strong and rigid. Specs suggest it is 2-3x stronger than ABS like and Ultra Tough and even 1.5x stronger than ABS filament, but I wonder if this is true, or it is just a very stiff and will shatter like PLA, but is just stronger than standard resin.
After review i bought it and it's pretty hard to print! testing out my first prototype on this resin, at 4s layer and 55s first layer the loosened from the bedplate 4 out of 5 models where hanging :)
Perhaps I can help. Those settings don’t look right. What printer are you using? Check the Anycubic website for settings store.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/tough-resin-ultra
Also, try re-levelling your build plate. And, try to keep the temperature above 25 degrees. See if that helps.
@@ColinKlupiec I'm using Mono X 6k, i did use recommended settings at 80% UV but did not stick to the bedplate, resin is at 28c.
That's frustrating. I'd still try re-levelling the build plate. I recently had problems with prints coming away from the build plate on my D2 after months of successful printing. After re-levelling, the prints stuck with no issues. Is it a large object that you are printing?
@@ColinKlupiec I did some few successful prints. Alltought the resin is pretty soft compared to the old "though" resin on thinner parts as 1mm walls just bend easily, I've cured for 1 and 2 hours and it seemed to get softer! Hehe
@@andreaslund5850 I wonder if they should have called it 'flexible' resin, or something like 'super flex'. Because it is tough, and I have a need for that. But it's also flexible. Perhaps a name like 'flexi tough' could also have been appropriate.
Why not a controlled vertical drop test?
I hadn't thought of that because I was mostly thinking of the bumps and knocks the parts would get in normal use. But a controlled drop test is a good idea. Sounds like fun too. 😀
@@ColinKlupiec I'll agree it's getting a little bit like a lab test...like CNC Kitchen. Just pre-ordered the Saturn 4 Ultra so will be looking forward to trying epoxy-filling functional prints sometime...👍