✅Click here for an UltraSonic cleaner ➜ amzn.to/2HoZrMX For more videos like this, check out: 👉Ultimate Tips For Using An Ultrasonic Cleaner ➜ th-cam.com/video/BTN7-C72eHA/w-d-xo.html 👉SHOCKING RESULTS - Best Rust Remover ➜ th-cam.com/video/AbLrN9PWsbA/w-d-xo.html 👉Home Made Penetrating Fluid Formula ➜ th-cam.com/video/cElDM06Mk3c/w-d-xo.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
My aunt taught me to clean gas tanks with rocks and water over 50 years ago, works great. If there is any sludge in the tank just add a little detergent.
If you have a concrete mixer you can put vinegar and some chains in the tank. Swish it around and let soak. Then strap to mixer and run for a few hours. The chain is easier to remove than gravel on some tanks. Some tanks have a neck that makes getting gravel out kind of tricky.
I cleaned many a motorcycle gas tank that way, but we always sealed them with something like TankSeal afterwards. It's not just about rust, but sometimes the mounting tabs would develop micro cracks, and a gas-wet crotch on a long ride is never forgotten.
Makes sense to me. And, I'd think that putting fuel in the tank would somewhat protect the metal. Doesn't gas contain corrosion inhibitors? It would probably help to keep the fuel fresh or avoid ethanol which attracts water.
My 3HP Briggs and Stratton engine is 1977 and tank was badly rusted, so having removed the rust same way as you (I also used a pressure washer with gravel inside), I really dried the inside of the tank using an air fan in a greenhouse for 24 hours, then sprayed the inside of the tank with Hammerite and Hammerite thinner. I don't want to repeat the rust removal process. I treated the petrol pump to a new gasket as old one was 45 years old.
Man that brings back some memories these engines are getting fewer and far between I worked on a truckload of those motors back in the early 90s late 80s
Steve, I liked the gravel solution for rust removal. The one thing I will say for rust/oxidation is that it generally needs air to happen. I had an issue with my Honda HS621 Snowblower many years ago and it was due to storage. Once they started putting ethanol in the fuel the storage procedure most likely caused the oxidation in the carburetor bowl. I typically shut off the fuel valve, ran the engine, and then drained the bowl. I believe whatever residual coating that was left wicked in moisture and cause the oxidation. Once I found the issue I used a scotch brite pad and removed the oxidation, cleaned the carburetor. For over 15 years now my storage procedure has been to run stable in every fill up, top off the tank and put it away without turning the fuel off. I’ve never had the problem again. I am a huge fan of Sta-Bil 360 for this reason and add it to my containers at every fill up.
The rock method of cleaning is fine. It is not the gas that is causing the rust problem. It is the dampness that causes rust issues. Keep up the good work Steve.
OK folks, here’s a method that will polish the insides of the rustiest fuel tank to a nearly mirror finish: with a clothes dryer. No kidding. Remove the fuel tank, make sure it is fully dry, and dump several hundred BBs inside. Replace the gas cap and put duct tape over the carb opening. Then wrap the tank tightly with something like bubble wrap and package mailing tape. Then, use twine or light rope to tie chunks of foam rubber around the tank package and wait for your spouse to leave home for several hours. This is where the dryer comes in: you want to be able to compress the foam so the entire package can be wedged inside the dryer drum. Set the dryer to the no-heat cycle and the timer so it will run at least a coupe hours. I like to use rubbing alcohol to flush the tank and, if need be, repeat the cycle. You don’t want that steel tank bouncing around the dryer drum, so that’s the reason for making the foam rubber “plug” that suspends the tank in the dryer. A friend gave me a sidewalk edger with a badly rusted tank, and after the dryer treatment the thing ran flawlessly until the day I sold it.
Can't believe this is a comment you really wanted down here but anyway IF IT'S ALREADY RUSTED there is NO PROTECTIVE COATING LEFT ANY. Great idea with the rocks, saved me money not having to buy a gas tank or find some other way to clean it out! 😁👍
My dad taught me the rock trick when I was young, trying to get the rust out of my 1986 Honda dirt bike I bought, tank was very rusted. Hooked it up, essentially like a spit, filled the tank with rocks and turned it all afternoon, it did the job.
I used rocks inside the tank of a Honda goldwing motorcycle that had been sitting for 10 years and cleaned it out. That was 17 years ago and it still doesn't have any problems. Thanks for the video Steve. Nice job
Hi Steve, I'm 75 years young and I have been using that method of cleaning fuel tanks since I was 12, never had a problem with them after cleaning as the fuel protects them from then on, just dont leave them empty.
Found an old Wright SAW. Never seen a saw like this till now. Gonna start from top down and see if I can get it to run. So far, success with the gas tank video!
Great job Steve!!! Just a heads up for anyone interested, I just cleaned the exact same B&S gas tank from a Troybuilt, which was in the same fillthy condition, just by filling it all the way up with regular vinegar. Left it for a day and a half, and then rinsed it with a garden hose and compressed air just like you did!! Came out super clean to the last crimp and dimple!!
I like to use small stamped out flat washers because one side has a sort of sharp edge which I hope acts as some kind of scraping blade on the inner tank surface when I shake and shake and shake it . Then I can re-use the washers afterward . Great videos by the way . Now I have two rototillers for some reason .
You are the best ever small engine mechanic I have ever seen in my 52 years on this planet. I thought I knew a lot about engines and you blew me out of the water. Thanks very much from England.
You should watch Taryl Fixes All's video on "Small Engine Total Rebuild: A Complete Guide". Once past the silliness, he covers almost all the bases including cleaning everything up spic and span and getting the engine back to its best condition within monetary reason. There's really no need to throw a lot of money at these engines replacing every part if the original parts are still serviceable.
Just had a tank that was full of rust on a tiller, I know people use some kind of coating for inside the gas tanks but them rocks or gravel worked good! I’ll be trying it . Gasket was shot same as yours, what else? Big flakes of rust in tank . Can’t wait to see a worst case scenario as oil was full of water too. There is hope, thanks Steve
Steve, you kept us waiting quite sometime for this lastest tiller repair installment, but it was worth the wait. The gravel in the gas tank was a great idea! That worked as advertised and gave an amazing result. As far as having future rust problems, I'm going with your past experiences. Maybe there is an additive to inhibit rust in old gas tanks... It's now easy to see why new small engines mostly come with non-metallic tanks to eliminate rust issues. Now, time for a beer, eh?
Great Information Steve. My neighbor brought me an edger that sat with fuel for years. The tank was rusted and varnished. I was able to take off the carburetor and service because of your video. In addition, I soaked the tank with Vinegar for 8 hours and the rust disintegrated easily. I did use several nuts and cut a steel wool pad in thirds and shook for 10 min. Looks like new. Thanks again!
Suggest no steel wool. Some of the tiny metal particles of the wool may go thru the tank's little inside filter and enter the carb/jet. Use something that will NOT leave any part of itself in the tank. Ball bearing/BBs will be best and they can be removed with magnet and gravity. Good Luck!
I'm fixing this same exact engine, carburetor and fuel tank. Same exact problem and about the same amount of rust. I didn't have sharp gravel on my yard like you had so I went to my neighbor's yard and stole some of his from his driveway. It worked great most of the rust was knocked out of the tank.
I think as long as you have enough steel to hold the fuel you should be good to go. The fuel will prevent rust as long as you fill the tank after your done tilling.
I recently used the transmission fluid and acetone mix to free up a compression screw on a hydraulic pump and it worked like a charm. That hydraulic pump was frozen for more than 10 years. Not any more. Thanks for the advice Steve. ✌🏿
atf acetone is the bomb. i tugged and tugged on a tie rond end once that would not move. bathed it in atf/acetone and tried it again 45 min later. the tie rod end broke free with almost no effort and screwered right off.
Steve had one exactly like this ( mine was a Craftsman triller ) and sold it last year , been in my family since 1972 . I was alway told in metal tanks to make sure a keep the tank full of gas at the end of every season to avoid rust and it never did develop rust . Steve had heard what was ideal was too put pea gravel in it - and if you had a way of attachment to a paint shaker would do the job perfectly - clean the gas tank perfectly .
Steve, the Gas Tank results are amazing. Thanks. So I was given a very ugly Toro 2-cycle Commercial Lawn Mower. Sat outside for years. Gal tells me She bought it in the 80's. The safety sticker says 1984. The Model Number tag has been removed and is lost. Gas tank is huge (1 Gallon)and metal. Thought it would be fun to try and get it running. Alloy deck is good, just the paint corroded off. I haven't looked at the engine yet but compression seems good. Thanks again for your videos. Update: Tried to clean the gas tank and it has dried oil sludge inside that didn't come off. Maybe soak it for a while?
I did something similar with the fuel tank in my 68 F250, but I used bb’s to help clean it then used por15 cleaner and coating to seal it. Mine was about the same and it’s been great for the last 8 yrs or so. Been waiting for the next vid in your series, keep em going, really enjoy them!!!
The coating was already breaking down by the looks of it so cleaning it out with gravel won’t hurt it . Great video, a man just gave me an old rear time tiller with the same carb on tank that I was going to start working on so this info came at the right time
I think using the pebbles in the gas tank is genius! And as far as the protective coating, if you just use non-ethynol gas and use the rototiller often, you should have no problem with rust coming back. And if it's rusty in the first place, how good is that old protective coating? Great video and great series, Steve. Thank you!
You completely rock. I have the same exact machine trying to get power back. Spitting fire and backfires before AND after magnetron upgrade. Cleaned the head and valves like the last video. Do you know a trick to check the timing (without opening crankcase yet) by the position of the magnet in relation to the coil legs? I know TDC precisely with the head off.
Good stuff...the coating inside the tank has long gone! Also, for storage some 2 stroke can be added to a dry tank , swished around and the residual oil inhibits the inside of the tank...👍🇦🇺😀
Great video, surprised at the use of hot water, I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and typically have had great success using diesel as a solution without the heat
Rock method is a good way for sure. The protective coating is already extremely comprised maybe make sure tank is full when stored less condensation. Thanks for the videos waiting for the carb set up for that tiller now as I’m dealing with the same thing lol
Steve, it's really important to use SAE gravel for those old Briggs gas tanks. I can only find metric gravel around here (central British Columbia) so I don't know what I'm going to do.
Going back to the "stone age" Steve...nice idea. I like the cost also 😁! Hope you need to till something soon. I have a feeling you'll have a machine for the job! Thanks!
Steve, I absolutely love the idea of putting rocks in the tank to knock out the rust chips. I've never done that before. I've always just switched it with gas best I could. On another note if the rocks knock off the coating on a tank this old, do we really care? I don't care. If my customer decides to abuse his machine again, well I guess that's just more work for me. I also really like the idea of just using hot water in the Sonic cleaner. I've always used carburetor cleaner and that starts getting very expensive. I also need to buy a bigger Sonic cleaner like yours.
Keep doing what you are doing I am learning a lot from you I can't take my stuff to a shop so I learn from you and I thank you so much my name is Tim b.
With that much rust already, there's no way that any of that protective coating was left on there. I've seen stuff about putting bleach in there overnight, but this is by far the smartest way to do it. I'm learning so much from your vids Steve, keep up the good work!
Nice stuff! I cleaned up a carb just like that for my big lawn vacuum last fall. Bought the big oem carb kit with more gaskets than you'll ever need, plus the needle, etc... Ironically no spring and circle cover, but they had them in a cheap diaphragm kit (also oem) at the hardware store, go figure! So now I have a spare diaphragm. And now that I have the proper governor linkage on it again (lost the old one in the rebuild, made one by hand but it wasn't quite perfect), it works just awesome now.
Really wish I saw this video before I spent over 100$ for a new 5 horse gas tank a couple years ago. I just didn’t know I could do something so simple. Thanks for all the knowledge. The more you know 🌈
Nice video I have what looks like the exact engine and gas tank that you have. I am about to remove my gas tank as the gas is nice and brown and flaky . Question: I see one screw holding the gas tank and then there is the linkage for the throttle Now I also see a little wire on one end of the gas tank held in by a clamp or some device. I assume that it must be removed and is not part of the gas tank? Is it a grounding wire? So before I tear things apart would you have any info on that for me. Thanks
The first time I cleaned a fuel tank I used brass screws, nuts, bolts and washers and gas line antifreeze thinking the brass would do less damage to the inside of the tank. But when it came time to empty everything out it took almost an hour to get all the brass out because of a lip on the inside of the tank. Now I use metal screws, nuts, bolts and washers so I can use a magnet to remove the stubborn metal pieces. Like others have said the tank is already damaged so you aren’t really going to do much more damage than there already is.
Ive got the same style carb and tank. I was cleaning it and the small internal 'cup' or baffle whatever it is under the centre hole of the pick up tube , came loose inside. Can it be put back without cutting open the tank, or will it run without this in place?? Thanks
✅Click here for an UltraSonic cleaner ➜ amzn.to/2HoZrMX
For more videos like this, check out:
👉Ultimate Tips For Using An Ultrasonic Cleaner ➜ th-cam.com/video/BTN7-C72eHA/w-d-xo.html
👉SHOCKING RESULTS - Best Rust Remover ➜ th-cam.com/video/AbLrN9PWsbA/w-d-xo.html
👉Home Made Penetrating Fluid Formula ➜ th-cam.com/video/cElDM06Mk3c/w-d-xo.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon
✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/
✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
Steve I love the videos I wish you would put the parts numbers down for the diaphragm and the gaskets that you use would help us greatly thanks again.
I really need help with my mower my neighbor tipped it the wrong way and now I can't start it at all
@@petersangoi260 Part numbers, yes, and, where does one buy such old parts these days, in North America ?
Need to update your links -- the ultrasonic cleaner is NLA, same with the clutch remover for Briggs & Stratton. A challenge.
My aunt taught me to clean gas tanks with rocks and water over 50 years ago, works great. If there is any sludge in the tank just add a little detergent.
Right on
Do what Mustie1 does, strap the tank to your vehicle wheel and drive LOL!...Love this series.
If you have a concrete mixer you can put vinegar and some chains in the tank. Swish it around and let soak. Then strap to mixer and run for a few hours. The chain is easier to remove than gravel on some tanks. Some tanks have a neck that makes getting gravel out kind of tricky.
I cleaned many a motorcycle gas tank that way, but we always sealed them with something like TankSeal afterwards. It's not just about rust, but sometimes the mounting tabs would develop micro cracks, and a gas-wet crotch on a long ride is never forgotten.
As far as the protective coating inside the gas tank, it was already rusted so it was pretty much useless if there was any there anyhow.
Makes sense to me. And, I'd think that putting fuel in the tank would somewhat protect the metal. Doesn't gas contain corrosion inhibitors? It would probably help to keep the fuel fresh or avoid ethanol which attracts water.
I always mix a little Marvel Mystery Oil into my gas.. that should help the tank as well
@@oggearhound2242 all good ideas, it won’t rust, be just fine.
My 3HP Briggs and Stratton engine is 1977 and tank was badly rusted, so having removed the rust same way as you (I also used a pressure washer with gravel inside), I really dried the inside of the tank using an air fan in a greenhouse for 24 hours, then sprayed the inside of the tank with Hammerite and Hammerite thinner. I don't want to repeat the rust removal process. I treated the petrol pump to a new gasket as old one was 45 years old.
@@Julianvet123
Petrol pump?
What, are we in England now?
Great video. Working on a 5hp from 1973 right now myself.
Good luck!
Man that brings back some memories these engines are getting fewer and far between I worked on a truckload of those motors back in the early 90s late 80s
Awesome buddy! Thank You...
Hey Steve. Keep up the great work. Greetings from Galway Ireland
Thanks, will do!
Yall got great eggnog in galway bay! 🤪
Steve, I liked the gravel solution for rust removal. The one thing I will say for rust/oxidation is that it generally needs air to happen. I had an issue with my Honda HS621 Snowblower many years ago and it was due to storage. Once they started putting ethanol in the fuel the storage procedure most likely caused the oxidation in the carburetor bowl. I typically shut off the fuel valve, ran the engine, and then drained the bowl. I believe whatever residual coating that was left wicked in moisture and cause the oxidation. Once I found the issue I used a scotch brite pad and removed the oxidation, cleaned the carburetor. For over 15 years now my storage procedure has been to run stable in every fill up, top off the tank and put it away without turning the fuel off. I’ve never had the problem again. I am a huge fan of Sta-Bil 360 for this reason and add it to my containers at every fill up.
I love it when a plan comes together A-Team
Right on Tommy! Thank You...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon you are welcome
The gravel idea works great. I used similar on a rusty H Farmall tank. Put marble chips in it with water and had the kids roll it around the yard.
Cool!
I have watched you for some time now, and may I say you have helped me some much thank you
You're Welcome...
The rock method of cleaning is fine. It is not the gas that is causing the rust problem. It is the dampness that causes rust issues. Keep up the good work Steve.
Thank You...
OK folks, here’s a method that will polish the insides of the rustiest fuel tank to a nearly mirror finish: with a clothes dryer. No kidding. Remove the fuel tank, make sure it is fully dry, and dump several hundred BBs inside. Replace the gas cap and put duct tape over the carb opening. Then wrap the tank tightly with something like bubble wrap and package mailing tape.
Then, use twine or light rope to tie chunks of foam rubber around the tank package and wait for your spouse to leave home for several hours. This is where the dryer comes in: you want to be able to compress the foam so the entire package can be wedged inside the dryer drum. Set the dryer to the no-heat cycle and the timer so it will run at least a coupe hours. I like to use rubbing alcohol to flush the tank and, if need be, repeat the cycle. You don’t want that steel tank bouncing around the dryer drum, so that’s the reason for making the foam rubber “plug” that suspends the tank in the dryer. A friend gave me a sidewalk edger with a badly rusted tank, and after the dryer treatment the thing ran flawlessly until the day I sold it.
Tried the rock cleaning trick tonight on an old craftsman snowblower. Worked incredibly! Thanks!
You're Welcome...
I use vinegar and some small chain I use to hang my florescent light fixtures .
Can't believe this is a comment you really wanted down here but anyway IF IT'S ALREADY RUSTED there is NO PROTECTIVE COATING LEFT ANY. Great idea with the rocks, saved me money not having to buy a gas tank or find some other way to clean it out! 😁👍
Great point!
I can't believe you made that thing functional again. Good work Steve.! Amazing really.
Thank you very much!
Been watching all day for this :)
Right on buddy! Hope it was worth it?
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon it was hope you get better :) sucks being sick
From Dominican Republic I see your videos you are great 😊
Awesome! Thank you!
My dad taught me the rock trick when I was young, trying to get the rust out of my 1986 Honda dirt bike I bought, tank was very rusted. Hooked it up, essentially like a spit, filled the tank with rocks and turned it all afternoon, it did the job.
Right on buddy!
I used rocks inside the tank of a Honda goldwing motorcycle that had been sitting for 10 years and cleaned it out. That was 17 years ago and it still doesn't have any problems.
Thanks for the video Steve. Nice job
Cool!
Hi Steve, I'm 75 years young and I have been using that method of cleaning fuel tanks since I was 12, never had a problem with them after cleaning as the fuel protects them from then on, just dont leave them empty.
Right on
Bottom line....You rocked this one out Steve! Greatly enjoy watching you fix engines.
Thank You...
Man Steve you are a wizard brother that carb looked shot ! Ican't wait for the next one 🍺
Comin soon...
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon Bring it on! Like this series.....
Found an old Wright SAW. Never seen a saw like this till now. Gonna start from top down and see if I can get it to run. So far, success with the gas tank video!
Good luck!
Automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Got it! Nice trick. I'll try the rocks in my dirt bike tank
Right on
I've been using the rock method for years also and I never had a problem. Good one Steve!!!
Good to hear
Great job Steve!!! Just a heads up for anyone interested, I just cleaned the exact same B&S gas tank from a Troybuilt, which was in the same fillthy condition, just by filling it all the way up with regular vinegar. Left it for a day and a half, and then rinsed it with a garden hose and compressed air just like you did!! Came out super clean to the last crimp and dimple!!
With a rusty tank like that - tank coating is already gone - so gravel or nuts is the only option. Thanks Steve - now can we get a shop tour soon? :-)
We will see Claus, we will see!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon :-) Thanks Steve
I like to use small stamped out flat washers because one side has a sort of sharp edge which I hope acts as some kind of scraping blade on the inner tank surface when I shake and shake and shake it . Then I can re-use the washers afterward .
Great videos by the way . Now I have two rototillers for some reason .
Soaking rusted metal parts in cleaning vinegar for a few days will do wonders on rust. No shaking, just waiting.
Thanks Steve. Always good information for my small engine items.
Glad to help
I've been waiting for another installment in the tiller saga
Right on
Like it man. I think the rust coating in that era was a full tank of non-corn gasoline.
You are the best ever small engine mechanic I have ever seen in my 52 years on this planet. I thought I knew a lot about engines and you blew me out of the water. Thanks very much from England.
WOW! Thanks buddy....
You should watch Taryl Fixes All's video on "Small Engine Total Rebuild: A Complete Guide". Once past the silliness, he covers almost all the bases including cleaning everything up spic and span and getting the engine back to its best condition within monetary reason. There's really no need to throw a lot of money at these engines replacing every part if the original parts are still serviceable.
I watched the first three in one go but couldn't find the fourth one! Looking for a week. Gonna enjoy this (instead of repairing my engines!)
Right on Johnny!
Just had a tank that was full of rust on a tiller, I know people use some kind of coating for inside the gas tanks but them rocks or gravel worked good! I’ll be trying it . Gasket was shot same as yours, what else? Big flakes of rust in tank . Can’t wait to see a worst case scenario as oil was full of water too. There is hope, thanks Steve
I put non-ethanol high octane gas in my small engines and fuel stabilizer. Thanks for sharing !!!
If there was a protective coating on the inside of the tank the rust had already compromised it. Good job Steve!
Good point!
Steve, you kept us waiting quite sometime for this lastest tiller repair installment, but it was worth the wait.
The gravel in the gas tank was a great idea! That worked as advertised and gave an amazing result. As far as having future rust problems, I'm going with your past experiences. Maybe there is an additive to inhibit rust in old gas tanks...
It's now easy to see why new small engines mostly come with non-metallic tanks to eliminate rust issues.
Now, time for a beer, eh?
Right on Wayne! Thank You...
Water and gravel worked great. Automatic trans fluid and acetone - great tip. I'm going to try it on a sticky throttle cable.
Right on
Sweet! Thought maybe I had missed an episode, was glad to see this one released! Thank you, I can already hear this rototiller running.
Right on Shane!
Great Information Steve. My neighbor brought me an edger that sat with fuel for years. The tank was rusted and varnished. I was able to take off the carburetor and service because of your video. In addition, I soaked the tank with Vinegar for 8 hours and the rust disintegrated easily. I did use several nuts and cut a steel wool pad in thirds and shook for 10 min. Looks like new. Thanks again!
You're Welcome...
Suggest no steel wool. Some of the tiny metal particles of the wool may go thru the tank's little inside filter and enter the carb/jet. Use something that will NOT leave any part of itself in the tank. Ball bearing/BBs will be best and they can be removed with magnet and gravity. Good Luck!
If you're using copper BBs, you can forget about the magnet.
My opinion is you cleaned the tank correctly. I have also done the same on several tanks through the years with no problems later.
Thank You...
Always works good many years doing it that way
Right on Jack!
You did great on that tank.
Thank You...
Ha! Hi Steve. I just restored the exact tiller. Runs great.
Nice work!
Another insightful and fun video. Thanks man.
My pleasure!
I wish I had your channel when I was a kid. I could have saved much time, effort and headaches. Thanks for your informative videos!
You're Welcome...
I'm fixing this same exact engine, carburetor and fuel tank. Same exact problem and about the same amount of rust. I didn't have sharp gravel on my yard like you had so I went to my neighbor's yard and stole some of his from his driveway. It worked great most of the rust was knocked out of the tank.
Right on
very ciever idea ,smart wish i knew this idea years ago
thankyou steve.
You rock Steve! 👍 Cheers! Won't be long before someone works with it!
Hopefully!
I usually use BB's but is not a space shuttle it'll work keep up the good work Steve
Thanks, will do!
Gotta love the simplicity of those engines! I've had success with the gravel method too.
Good to hear!
I think as long as you have enough steel to hold the fuel you should be good to go. The fuel will prevent rust as long as you fill the tank after your done tilling.
I use a Small steel chain, works very good !
That's a great idea!
That gravel trick; that's why we love ya bro👍👍👌👌
Thank You...
Gravel does no harm rust has already taken of the protective coating good job Steve
Thanks for the powerful knowledge Steve
My pleasure!
I've done the same thing with rusty fuel tanks works great, I also used Red Kote sealer in them, never have a rusty tank again 👍
Great tip!
Pretty sure the tanks protective coating is long gone..lol. I've been using gravel for years. Great video Steve ! Keep em coming.
Right on Scott!
Not soon enough, Steve!
Thanks for sharing.
You're Welcome...
I recently used the transmission fluid and acetone mix to free up a compression screw on a hydraulic pump and it worked like a charm. That hydraulic pump was frozen for more than 10 years. Not any more. Thanks for the advice Steve. ✌🏿
Awesome!
atf acetone is the bomb. i tugged and tugged on a tie rond end once that would not move. bathed it in atf/acetone and tried it again 45 min later. the tie rod end broke free with almost no effort and screwered right off.
Awesome video Steve, making progress on the old tiller, she'll run!
Thank You...
Steve had one exactly like this ( mine was a Craftsman triller ) and sold it last year , been in my family since 1972 . I was alway told in metal tanks to make sure a keep the tank full of gas at the end of every season to avoid rust and it never did develop rust . Steve had heard what was ideal was too put pea gravel in it - and if you had a way of attachment to a paint shaker would do the job perfectly - clean the gas tank perfectly .
Steve, the Gas Tank results are amazing. Thanks. So I was given a very ugly Toro 2-cycle Commercial Lawn Mower. Sat outside for years. Gal tells me She bought it in the 80's. The safety sticker says 1984. The Model Number tag has been removed and is lost. Gas tank is huge (1 Gallon)and metal. Thought it would be fun to try and get it running. Alloy deck is good, just the paint corroded off. I haven't looked at the engine yet but compression seems good.
Thanks again for your videos.
Update: Tried to clean the gas tank and it has dried oil sludge inside that didn't come off. Maybe soak it for a while?
That is a great tip with the gravels love all your videos Thank you from West Virginia
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
I did something similar with the fuel tank in my 68 F250, but I used bb’s to help clean it then used por15 cleaner and coating to seal it. Mine was about the same and it’s been great for the last 8 yrs or so.
Been waiting for the next vid in your series, keep em going, really enjoy them!!!
Thank You...
I use bird shot, same idea
I agree with many of your commenters, the inside of the tank was f'd anyway, absolutely nothing to lose by cleaning it.
Agreed!
Well done as usual!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you Steve, helped me again!
Glad to help!
Your a genius....
Thank you for those tips 🙂
You're Welcome...
The coating was already breaking down by the looks of it so cleaning it out with gravel won’t hurt it . Great video, a man just gave me an old rear time tiller with the same carb on tank that I was going to start working on so this info came at the right time
Excellent!
I think using the pebbles in the gas tank is genius! And as far as the protective coating, if you just use non-ethynol gas and use the rototiller often, you should have no problem with rust coming back. And if it's rusty in the first place, how good is that old protective coating? Great video and great series, Steve. Thank you!
You're Welcome...
You completely rock. I have the same exact machine trying to get power back. Spitting fire and backfires before AND after magnetron upgrade. Cleaned the head and valves like the last video. Do you know a trick to check the timing (without opening crankcase yet) by the position of the magnet in relation to the coil legs? I know TDC precisely with the head off.
How about BB’s ?
Good stuff...the coating inside the tank has long gone! Also, for storage some 2 stroke can be added to a dry tank , swished around and the residual oil inhibits the inside of the tank...👍🇦🇺😀
Great video, surprised at the use of hot water, I bought an ultrasonic cleaner and typically have had great success using diesel as a solution without the heat
Right on
I found sharp 1-inch sheetrock screws work great BILL N LINY
COOL!
Amazing as usual Steve!
Thank You...
I've been waiting for the next installment on this machine. Looking forward to the next one.
Right on buddy! Workin on it...
I plan to do they same thing to .y gas tank too. Thank you for reminding me of that
Do you have part numbers for the diaphragm and gasket?
TIA
Rock method is a good way for sure. The protective coating is already extremely comprised maybe make sure tank is full when stored less condensation. Thanks for the videos waiting for the carb set up for that tiller now as I’m dealing with the same thing lol
I have done the same way for years also just fine .
Right on Dave!
Steve, it's really important to use SAE gravel for those old Briggs gas tanks. I can only find metric gravel around here (central British Columbia) so I don't know what I'm going to do.
Always learning from you Steve love my Beer but after the jobs done 😂🍺👍
I have that very problem with an old B&S engine , it will be sorted tomorrow . Thanks
Good luck!
Going back to the "stone age" Steve...nice idea. I like the cost also 😁! Hope you need to till something soon. I have a feeling you'll have a machine for the job! Thanks!
Can't wait!
Steve, I absolutely love the idea of putting rocks in the tank to knock out the rust chips. I've never done that before. I've always just switched it with gas best I could. On another note if the rocks knock off the coating on a tank this old, do we really care? I don't care. If my customer decides to abuse his machine again, well I guess that's just more work for me. I also really like the idea of just using hot water in the Sonic cleaner. I've always used carburetor cleaner and that starts getting very expensive. I also need to buy a bigger Sonic cleaner like yours.
Keep doing what you are doing I am learning a lot from you I can't take my stuff to a shop so I learn from you and I thank you so much my name is Tim b.
Right on Tim! You're Welcome...
Another good one Steve, Thank you!
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
Steve, cleaning the tank came out nice! I think if you keep fresh gas in it now you shouldn't have to worry about rust.🇺🇸🇨🇦 Roger
Good point!
With that much rust already, there's no way that any of that protective coating was left on there. I've seen stuff about putting bleach in there overnight, but this is by far the smartest way to do it. I'm learning so much from your vids Steve, keep up the good work!
Interesting! Thank You...
Another great job , hope all is well.
Awesome!
Amazing steve I'm a big fan man
Thank You...
Nice stuff! I cleaned up a carb just like that for my big lawn vacuum last fall. Bought the big oem carb kit with more gaskets than you'll ever need, plus the needle, etc... Ironically no spring and circle cover, but they had them in a cheap diaphragm kit (also oem) at the hardware store, go figure! So now I have a spare diaphragm. And now that I have the proper governor linkage on it again (lost the old one in the rebuild, made one by hand but it wasn't quite perfect), it works just awesome now.
Thanks Steve
You're Welcome...
Really wish I saw this video before I spent over 100$ for a new 5 horse gas tank a couple years ago. I just didn’t know I could do something so simple. Thanks for all the knowledge. The more you know 🌈
You're Welcome...
I threw away mine 😭
Nice video I have what looks like the exact engine and gas tank that you have. I am about to remove my gas tank as the gas is nice and brown and flaky .
Question: I see one screw holding the gas tank and then there is the linkage for the throttle Now I also see a little wire on one end of the gas tank held in by a clamp or some device.
I assume that it must be removed and is not part of the gas tank? Is it a grounding wire? So before I tear things apart would you have any info on that for me. Thanks
Love your channel Steve! Do Canadians still use the phrase "Take off you hoser"??
The first time I cleaned a fuel tank I used brass screws, nuts, bolts and washers and gas line antifreeze thinking the brass would do less damage to the inside of the tank. But when it came time to empty everything out it took almost an hour to get all the brass out because of a lip on the inside of the tank. Now I use metal screws, nuts, bolts and washers so I can use a magnet to remove the stubborn metal pieces. Like others have said the tank is already damaged so you aren’t really going to do much more damage than there already is.
Ive got the same style carb and tank. I was cleaning it and the small internal 'cup' or baffle whatever it is under the centre hole of the pick up tube , came loose inside. Can it be put back without cutting open the tank, or will it run without this in place?? Thanks
That sucks, I'm guessing your looking for a new tank
Thanks Steve!
You're Welcome...