Thanks for posting this! Watched and did it the other day. One thing i found working on this front suspension when removing the knuckle from the strut. You can run the strut pinch bolt backwards and tighten it against a piece of sheet metal placed in the empty space where the knuckle wraps around the strut...two hits, some wiggling, and the knuckle is off. Also Torque Specs i saw for a 2012 Focus (please double check though!) Tie Rod End: 48 Nm Control Arm to Knuckle: 83Nm Wheel Speed Sensor: Not much Brake Shield: 30Nm Axle Nut: 80Nm + 90° Knuckle to Strut: 80Nm + 180° Brake Caliper to Knuckle: 175Nm
Thank you for showing the full process. The lower ball joint was giving me as much trouble as you until I loosened the other 3 lower control arm bolts. It fell from the socket. I was swapping the LCA also.
I saw you did both sides at the same time, was there a reason for that? I think I can get away with doing only the side where I know the bearing is bad. Thank you for the video very informative. Super smart to spend the extra $30 or $40 and get the whole assembly. Not worth the time and effort to press bearings and all that.
Can't get the nut to release off the steering column so I can't even get that part off the knuckle and the sensor torx screw is stripping using a t25. I give up. Guess I'll ride it til the wheel falls off!
@@themiddleagedgoodtimers4768 thank you for the quick reply got my part comin' in Thursday thanks for the video man might recommend some links in description for the tools and part, also where did u get that special bit to hold the back end of the lower support screw
@@MaximuMechanical No problem, thanks for watching. The bit I used for the lower support screw was a T50 Torx bit socket. You can buy them at Home Depot, Lowes or Harbor Freight depending on whoever has them in stock.
I don't perform this work as a mechanic but it took me about 4 hours to do both sides. Shop rates range anywhere from $60 - $100 an hour. Depending on shop rates you are looking at roughly $240 - $400 total for 4 hours of labor only.
It's a wheel sensor not abs. And don't hit the tie rod on the top of it..u could damaged the threads. Hit on the side above the boot and should break free the tie rod.
It’s a abs/speed sensor. If you don’t remove it during the process it’ll break. Your abs light will come on as well as the traction control warning. The speedometer will not work either. If you do happen to break it. They are $35 to replace.
Thanks for posting this! Watched and did it the other day. One thing i found working on this front suspension when removing the knuckle from the strut. You can run the strut pinch bolt backwards and tighten it against a piece of sheet metal placed in the empty space where the knuckle wraps around the strut...two hits, some wiggling, and the knuckle is off.
Also Torque Specs i saw for a 2012 Focus (please double check though!)
Tie Rod End: 48 Nm
Control Arm to Knuckle: 83Nm
Wheel Speed Sensor: Not much
Brake Shield: 30Nm
Axle Nut: 80Nm + 90°
Knuckle to Strut: 80Nm + 180°
Brake Caliper to Knuckle: 175Nm
No problem, thanks for the info and thanks for watching!
I'm doing this repair tomorrow and you sir, are my hero!
Thank you for showing the full process. The lower ball joint was giving me as much trouble as you until I loosened the other 3 lower control arm bolts. It fell from the socket. I was swapping the LCA also.
No problem, thanks for watching!
These still working with no issues? Just received mine and ready for install.
I put about 50 miles on the car before I sold it with no issues.
Did the car throw up any codes cuz you replaced the bearing magneto
No.
you make me very nervous using only that scissor jack..informative video though...thanks!
Yeah, no jack stands!
pro trick : watch series at instaflixxer. I've been using it for watching loads of movies lately.
@Esteban Terrance yup, been using InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
@Esteban Terrance yea, have been using instaflixxer for years myself =)
I saw you did both sides at the same time, was there a reason for that? I think I can get away with doing only the side where I know the bearing is bad. Thank you for the video very informative. Super smart to spend the extra $30 or $40 and get the whole assembly. Not worth the time and effort to press bearings and all that.
There was no real reason to do both sides at the same time other than convenience. Thanks for watching!
How long does it take you to replace wheel bearing? The front
I believe it took me about 4 hours to do both sides.
So I just tried driving it and the sway bar link popped right out of the socket, where did I go wrong?! What do I do now lol
Hard to say without seeing it, just double check all of your connection points and see if you can find the problem.
Thanks
Can't get the nut to release off the steering column so I can't even get that part off the knuckle and the sensor torx screw is stripping using a t25. I give up. Guess I'll ride it til the wheel falls off!
😂 how'd that work out?
Do you need an alignment after this repair??
It would be a good idea but it's ultimately at your discretion.
@@themiddleagedgoodtimers4768 thank you for the quick reply got my part comin' in Thursday thanks for the video man might recommend some links in description for the tools and part, also where did u get that special bit to hold the back end of the lower support screw
@@MaximuMechanical No problem, thanks for watching. The bit I used for the lower support screw was a T50 Torx bit socket. You can buy them at Home Depot, Lowes or Harbor Freight depending on whoever has them in stock.
@@themiddleagedgoodtimers4768 ended up being a T55 oddly enough not sure why they put two different sizes on the same car either way old ones off!
How much for this labor?
I don't perform this work as a mechanic but it took me about 4 hours to do both sides. Shop rates range anywhere from $60 - $100 an hour. Depending on shop rates you are looking at roughly $240 - $400 total for 4 hours of labor only.
Where did you order that part as a whole please ?
Hello, I got it from RockAuto.
Don't forget the jack stand and alignment
@@MrScottgp I thought uou didn’t have to do an alignment?
@@AAP0000 I had to but also had to do a lower control arm. Mine pulled a little when I was done
@@MrScottgp Oh. I see.
nice!
Thanks!
Bad idea hitting the tie rod and the ball joint with the hammer but is a good video after all
It's a wheel sensor not abs. And don't hit the tie rod on the top of it..u could damaged the threads. Hit on the side above the boot and should break free the tie rod.
It’s a abs/speed sensor. If you don’t remove it during the process it’ll break. Your abs light will come on as well as the traction control warning. The speedometer will not work either. If you do happen to break it. They are $35 to replace.
Why do people still use normal tools? You ever heard of a ratchet wrench?🤷🏾♂️🤣
Bad idea hitting the tie rod and the ball joint with the hammer but is a good video after all