Hello Trev! Thank you for the excellent video! I watched it 2 times. There is one thing I want to share. Here, in Russia, we don't like to use wax in cavities. Because it dries up and cannot stop the corrosion spreading underneath. There are many joints of sheet metal wich has entrances in the cavities and outside. Moisture gets into the joint from outside, starts corrosion between the sheets and then it starts to spreading underneath the wax inside. Recently I worked on such car, which was treated with wax very whel, but it have serious rust damage inside the cavities. Here we mostly like to use thomething oily and non-drying. For example, conservation grease mixed with very thick transmission oil. It make car sticky and dirty on some areas outside, but it penetrates in the joints of metal and in the rust very whel. And it never dries. Better the dirty car than a rusty car)). Sorry for my bad english. Good luck!
I learned more in the forty-five minutes of this video than in weeks of trying to read online about the benefits of different types of sealers. Thanks, Trev!
what a fantastic comprehensive tutorial . Its one of my top goto guides Thank you Trev for all the hard work and precious time you have invested in making this video for us and sharing your extensive experience and skills
Just discovered your channel. You are a great teacher! I took a panel working course 20 years ago and it all comes back to me now. I see you have a great taste as well. Love your music choice and your hairstyle!
@37:31 Great point this - just got a van that has had some sort of bed liner type product on the arches - looked great but when I got it home and started picking, the rust had spread underneath and held the water against the metal - not much left but underseal and rust. Great video anyway - really helped with picking the right stuff to fix it up!
It’s an observation I’ve made. I get why people want to use a rock hard product because it makes sense to want to use something that’s really tough. I think initially it probably works really well up until the point where a small perforation occurs, then like you’ve said the product then acts as a vessel holding the water against the steel. Cheers Trev 👍
I'll never get tired of watching your content Trev. You have a great way of getting your knowledge across. I hope one day I'll have the confidence to do a proper full restoration of my old landrover defender. This video will be invaluable as Landy's have a lot of problems with rusty chassis. Possibly because we tend to love wading through any water and mud we can find 😂
Glad you’re back with another exceptional video. Arizona baby! No rust! Lived in East Coast, USA, for years and I feel your pain. Every car is a rust bucket in the making. Salt sprayed on the roads in winter and water ruins everything. I could do the Fred Flintstone feet out the floorboards braking of my ‘59 Bugeye (or, Frogeye) Sprite the rust got so bad. This is great info. Thanks.
Glad to see you back mate! Thanks for the timely information.. I was just going over my plan on my project for the underside. 😎👍 "MOM! Trev's back.. can I go out to play??" 😅🤣
Great work Trev, thank you. Im restoring a Land Rover Series 3 if you fancy taking a look. Used your panel beating video to help teach myself how to remove the dents in my aluminium panels.
Spent ages researching coatings and finally decided on exactly what you describe with the porsches. So far only used the epoxy on interior panels as I'm welding things up. Expensive, but impressed with it so far. Not easy to scratch while I've been working with it.
Hi Trev, I've managed to find this brilliant video again, massive relief, phew, as I am in the middle of my chassis restoration and I have my EM121 patiently waiting to be sprayed. Kind regards Paul (from "48-SPOKES")
The best video, from the best professional. I only want to learn how to avoid rust (and to protect of corrosión) on my 77 Jeep Cj5. I didn't know what goes first (over bare metal car body) a primer or direct body schutz. Here in Venezuela the economy is very bad and it's difficult to have all this 3M products you show. I only want the minimun basics. Thank you Trev.
Really good video! So many people put thousands of hours into a resto and don't apply any common sense into rust prevention. We use a mix of cavity wax, fish oil and thinners 1:1:1 to spray inside box section and internal cavities like sills. Why, because it creeps between the gap where two pieces of metal are welded together. For two summers after a treatment I'm seeing the mix cream out of every joint on the underside of the car potentially protecting the areas where two pieces of steel are spot welded together. I also deliberately drill drain holes in sills and leave them open to let water out. Works for us, fish oil doesn't smell very pleasant, but by the time the engine is in and the interior done the smell has gone.
Fantastic resource of a vital and much misunderstood aspect of car maintenance and repair. I learn so much from your videos Trev I just wish it was available 20-30 years ago . Your time and projects are very important and it would be selfish of us to expect regular videos of this length and detail. How about producing a regular weekly short podcast of say ....5-10 minutes and once a month a longer tutorial .(.time permitting of course. ) that way you can keep us up to date with progress without hours of video and editing work and we will get our regular 'fix ' !
I do like the Dinitrol products. I particularly like the Dynax clear for engine bay protection and as you say dries tack free. Thanks for sharing the wax and underseal product varieties, always nice to see a product actually applied .
Your such a valid person, after you talked about the chemical zinc treatments i believe you can get a paintable galvanised finish. Was taking about metal sheds at the time.
This is exactly the info I need, you present it in a very understandable way and I hope you will continue to share your knowledge and experience, for me as an amateur it is invaluable. Thank you.
Thank you very much for this! Very good to clear up some misconceptions that is out there. I definitely learned a lot from this. And that stepnose Alfa... My favorite car of all time, I think.
A brilliant video Trev, I'm restoring a 1969 Commer PB Autosleeper and one of the biggest/most important jobs will be to apply/reapply protection to the underframe once I'm finished with removal of the old coatings and repairs, even if I don't go with the same products your observations on what to use where and why will be very much at the forefront of my considerations!
Good to have you back Trev. Brilliant video, wish i'd watched this before I painted and wax oiled the repaired sections of the Ford Puma last summer. Already looking forward to the next video. Van looks fantastic!!
Hi Trev, Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . It all makes real good sense the way you do things, I look forward to trying out some of your recommendations. Kind regards Paul
Great video Trev. Van is looking great, and that is good stuff you are using and should keep your van in good condition for many years to come. Cheers, Jeff.
This video has been very informative. I am just about to undertake restoring my pickup chassis and was not sure what to protect it with after i had done all the hard graft on it. Your help and advice has been well worth watching. Many thanks Trev.
I am so relieved that you were not abducted by aliens again!!! Thanks for all the videos. I know that it takes a lot of time to make them, but a lot of people get a lot of knowledge and enjoyment from them.
Was just thinking yesterday that it's been some time since Trev posted a video...glad to have you back! It's interesting to see how you tackle the undercoating problem on your side of the pond. Over here in the US (especially here in the northeast) it's not uncommon for people to annually undercoat their cars with used motor oil or summer formula bar & chain oil (used for chain saws). There are also a number of lanolin-based undercoating products that work really well, though they also need to be reapplied annually. The lack of permanence is the key as they won't hold moisture against the steel like a permanent undercoating can do. Once saw a vid posted by a mechanic of him under a ~6 year old truck whose frame was totally rotted out due to the failure of a permanent undercoating treatment. Even here in the "Salt Belt" where we plaster the roads with salt during our harsh winters 6 years is pretty quick for that amount of damage.
Fantastic informative video, thank you ! Interesting that the MOD used a range of Dinitrol products on the “Wolf” Land Rover Defenders as opposed to their earlier attempts with under seal 😉
great video Trev, lots of good info that covers a lot of the stuff you see done wrong. Dont know how many times i see undercoats and seam sealer onto bare metal or galvanised steel in my line of work. I'd love to see some of your tips on painting in the colder months and on accelerators or fast hardeners!
just used some marine grade rust inhibiting primer called corroless s1. used it on some exposed brackets underneath my alfa 159 the stuff seems really good its brush on so doesn't leave a great finish but seems like its pretty bombproof and over-paintable. Really enjoy these videos learned a lot of handy tips and tricks cheers!
Did miss you but it's good you are busy but it does take alot out you , it's better being busy than not , good to see you and thanks for showing these things, I'm broke but still trying to change that , have heaps of ideas to do but will do the simplest things first then go from there 👍🏾👍🏾👊
Why do I always feel like a noob with a spray can when I watch your videos? LOL... Glad to see you back and as always I learned a few more things in this video. Just remember that Life is what happens when you are making other plans. Or, Take care of yourself first...
Would you use a rust converter or a phosphoric acid type neutraliser in pitted rust that you cant properly get away before epoxy mastic? Or does the epoxy mastic seal this off and not require the converter?
alan hainey once metal has started to rust, it will re-rust far faster than brand new steel, I believe this situation occurs because the surface area has increased, rust holds on to moisture better than bare steel it’s more porous etc. In a way the rust isn’t an issue as it’s the byproduct of corrosion, rust is just a passive substance that isn’t doing anything other than aiding the further corrosion on the steel by the means I’ve already mentioned. I’ve trialled loads of rust remedies and hand on heart I haven’t found anything that doesn’t just treat the very top surface, once you scrape away the dried activated rust converter/neutraliser your back to untouched rust. The other issue with rust neutralising products is that they’re usually an acid type product that is corrosive and can reactivate once dampened and the residue they create isn’t a very stable surface for paint to adhere to. Obviously the more rust you can remove the better the adhesion will be between the Epoxy mastic and the steel. Shot blasting is probably the most effective preparation but of course that isn’t always an easy process to do, so often using abrasives is the most straightforward way to prepare the surface before coating with Epoxy. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog thanks for the reply trev. That makes sense, im just trying to figure out the best course of action for my mk2 golf shell. Its all stripped to bare shell. I have started to just attack each bit of rot at a time then seal with epoxy primer, with the intention of taking it all back to bare metal again and giving the whole car a spray with epoxy. My thinking was once i have say the floor all back to bare metal, give it a wipe with rust buster por-15 before coating it in epoxy. The bits of pitted rust im talking about is the black pits that you cant get anything more out of with a wire wheel?would i be better just cutting these pits out? And replacing with new metal?
Great vid, and very timely - I'm just at the stage of waxing mine after painting, so useful indeed. I'd certainly agree on the rotisserie, I did my cars' entire underside (stripping, welding and painting) lying on the floor with the car about six inches from my nose. If I were to do this again, I'd definitely invest in a rotisserie!
I totally agree. I am restoring and finishing off a project I started 30 plus years ago. Still no rotisserie but going to get friends over to help me turn over the chassis (after the body is removed) so I can finish off the welding.
thought you gone into hibernation winter and all that. Great return with real automotive problems addressed, fantastic although here where he temp can reach mid 40s, put a spray wax on my Mk2 Escort inside cavities,runs everywhere
I’m really not sure to be honest and due to the virus I’m not at the workshop. I don’t think it was a Porsche colour. Lots of manufacturers are now using these kinds of colours. Cheers Trev
I have used a product called POR-15. It is a rust encapsulator and works very well. There is also the same product put out by Hirsch and I have read where it works very well. Both of these products work the same way. They are put on over rust and dry to a rock hard but pliable surface. You must first scrape the loose rust off first before applying. It can also be spayed and comes in grey or semi black colors. It can be top coated also.
Nice to see you posting again. Wish i had heard your thoughts on bedliner before i just used it on my vehicle. Hope my being in a dry climate will save me from any problems too soon. Keep the advise coming.
My car already has the factory Schutz finish which has held up really well for 20 odd years I have owned it. The car its 30 years old now and is being stripped right down so, was thinking on just steam cleaning underneath, to remove dirts etc. Then spend time removing rust (not much) and remove the factory stuff and then epoxy primer and Schutz, then factory colour over the top. The only concern is the roughing up of the epoxy primer surface before the Schutz some areas might be a bit hard due to the way the panels are formed.
I really missed your vids... Watching this with great interest for my own restoration... I use Sigma Cover 280 on the bare metal, it is marine grade epoxy primer...
"also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner" same here, you MUST epoxy then bedliner over a well prepped surface otherwise your in a world of pain - the epoxy is doing the main work - bedliner protects the epoxy
Hello Trev. Great vid. Learned heaps that I'm putting into practise! Please can you say what sort of adaptor / collet thing you used on the die grinder for the abrasives / conditioning wheels / flap disks? Is there a typical set up or does it depend on the abrasive? Be very handy to know more!
Hi it’s basically a Roloc mandrel which can be purchased from eBay etc. you can then use any disc that has a Roloc backing including copy discs which are of course cheaper. Typically I have found 50 grit grinding discs and surface conditioning discs the most useful 👍
@@trevsblog Many thanks. I heard you using the term in the vid, but didn't know it was 'a system'. I now do. I'll be getting some disks, pads etc. I've also just bought a 6mm mandrel for smaller abrasive / cut disks.
Project Farm has a video about comparing truck bed liners, for lower budget spray cans. Also about using Fluid Film spray every fall. Sweet Project Cars has a video about melting vaseline for inside door panels. One trick is filling a cavity with a spray foam insulation- no room for mice to make a nest, and no room for water and mud, also blocks noise.
Very good an helpful video, Trev. Regarding protecting already rusted areas, mainly cavities: there is a product called Mike Sander - a special mixture of different types of greases. It feels almost like soft wax but it is grease. It is said to stop the rust 100% and has excellent creeping properties. The downside is that it is very messy to apply and later on - the car may start dripping in the summer sun for quite some time.
Which wire wheels and cutting and grinding discs you should use double eye protection- googles and a full face mask. As you said the wires fling off everywhere... a leather welders jacket or similar is great to stop the wired sticking in your arms and stomach
Amazing work you do and great overview on the part of finishing a restoration that, quite frankly, can keep you up at night, not knowing if you selected the right product for each section. I came across a product from New Zealand which is made from, wait for it, sheep´s wool, and is called Prolan. It's used to protect farming equipment but has made it's way into the underbody protection world and is gaining popularity, especially in the scandinavian countries with their salty and harsh winters. A professional underbody company here in Iceland switched to it some years ago, coming from Fluid Film, which wasn't performing up to his standards. He swears by it after some years of experience. Supposedly this Prolan is self healing and encapsulates, so it will stop rust that has begun to form. It withstands pressure washing and grime solvents so it won't wash of inadvertantly. I'd be interested to hear if you have tried it or know someone using it and how it's performing.
Good to see you Trev, still a ways off waxing yet, I paint my epoxy with a big pressure pot, works great. Just about finished the front clip, then working down the bad side
At 5:50 I know how they say Eric Clapton felt after watching Hendrix play.... I don't know how you reached all those crannies. How long did brushing the chassis take?
boostismagic it took a long time, I never really take note of the time taken as I do this for a more enjoyable life. I have found that people that do things in a time don’t do things very well. My time has been monitored very closely by all those that I have worked for in the past. Worked for. (Past tense). Cheers Trev 👍
It's really motivating to see that done, thank you. My old truck is a small, I guess y'all call them yutes...'73 Datsun. Man, it's frame feels so much less daunting after seeing yours! I know exactly what you mean about the bosses. Quite late here in Texas..1:45 am...but stuck at home for a while longer, so no alarm clock. Wanted to watch something fun before bed, and wow! Trev's checking in!
![Full Underbody Rust Protection Guide [Seam Sealer, Underseal & Cavity Wax by Dinitrol] BMW E30 | 035](/img/n.gif)
Hello Trev! Thank you for the excellent video! I watched it 2 times. There is one thing I want to share. Here, in Russia, we don't like to use wax in cavities. Because it dries up and cannot stop the corrosion spreading underneath. There are many joints of sheet metal wich has entrances in the cavities and outside. Moisture gets into the joint from outside, starts corrosion between the sheets and then it starts to spreading underneath the wax inside. Recently I worked on such car, which was treated with wax very whel, but it have serious rust damage inside the cavities. Here we mostly like to use thomething oily and non-drying. For example, conservation grease mixed with very thick transmission oil. It make car sticky and dirty on some areas outside, but it penetrates in the joints of metal and in the rust very whel. And it never dries. Better the dirty car than a rusty car)). Sorry for my bad english. Good luck!
I learned more in the forty-five minutes of this video than in weeks of trying to read online about the benefits of different types of sealers. Thanks, Trev!
Me too,
what a fantastic comprehensive tutorial . Its one of my top goto guides Thank you Trev for all the hard work and precious time you have invested in making this video for us and sharing your extensive experience and skills
Excellent summary on anti corrosion with tools, products and most importantly how to apply the stuff successfully
I’ve missed you too Trev.
Good to hear that you take care of yourself!
every time i watch trev's blog makes me want to sort my mini out.
Good to see you again! 👍🇺🇸
Just discovered your channel. You are a great teacher! I took a panel working course 20 years ago and it all comes back to me now. I see you have a great taste as well. Love your music choice and your hairstyle!
@37:31 Great point this - just got a van that has had some sort of bed liner type product on the arches - looked great but when I got it home and started picking, the rust had spread underneath and held the water against the metal - not much left but underseal and rust. Great video anyway - really helped with picking the right stuff to fix it up!
It’s an observation I’ve made. I get why people want to use a rock hard product because it makes sense to want to use something that’s really tough. I think initially it probably works really well up until the point where a small perforation occurs, then like you’ve said the product then acts as a vessel holding the water against the steel. Cheers Trev 👍
I'll never get tired of watching your content Trev. You have a great way of getting your knowledge across. I hope one day I'll have the confidence to do a proper full restoration of my old landrover defender.
This video will be invaluable as Landy's have a lot of problems with rusty chassis. Possibly because we tend to love wading through any water and mud we can find 😂
hi trev.I have been a collision repair tech and a paintless dent repair guy in the usa for 32 years..Love your videos never to old to learn new stuff!
Another very informative video - thanks Trev! Love the focus on personal safety.
trev you are like an enclopedia man. thanks. i am very happy because you come back
Good to see you back Trev🤓
Love this! Subscribed after the third watch and off I go trawling through your other videos. Cheers!
Oh, I’ve missed your outro! Good job you made a nice job of the CA, it’s going to be around for ever.
I want to Thank you Trev for the Great videos,I always learn something..
The metal shaping skills you have is awesome.
Love the outro
It’s so nice to see another video, Trev. Always a treat.
Glad to see you're back on Trev.The videos are good motivation for some of us slackers. Remember to take that occasional coffee break
That was brilliant info man, and your work is just amazing, great stuff.
Who on earth thumbs down this? Great content. Great work Trev.
Glad you’re back with another exceptional video. Arizona baby! No rust! Lived in East Coast, USA, for years and I feel your pain. Every car is a rust bucket in the making. Salt sprayed on the roads in winter and water ruins everything. I could do the Fred Flintstone feet out the floorboards braking of my ‘59 Bugeye (or, Frogeye) Sprite the rust got so bad. This is great info. Thanks.
Glad to see you back mate! Thanks for the timely information.. I was just going over my plan on my project for the underside. 😎👍
"MOM! Trev's back.. can I go out to play??" 😅🤣
Another brilliant and well constructed video.So glad you found the time to produce it.Thanks
Nice seeing you again. Don't push yourself too hard for us!
Great work Trev, thank you. Im restoring a Land Rover Series 3 if you fancy taking a look. Used your panel beating video to help teach myself how to remove the dents in my aluminium panels.
Spent ages researching coatings and finally decided on exactly what you describe with the porsches. So far only used the epoxy on interior panels as I'm welding things up. Expensive, but impressed with it so far. Not easy to scratch while I've been working with it.
Jesus H that is better masking than Zorro - amazing attention to detail - you are a real craftsman/artisan.
Mercasol 1 and 3 have given me good success in keeping the rust away on salty roads in Norway.
great vid, love to see someone who knows their stuff
Good to see you back!!
Great video as always 😁😁😁
Hi Trev,
I've managed to find this brilliant video again, massive relief, phew, as I am in the middle of my chassis restoration and I have my EM121 patiently waiting to be sprayed.
Kind regards
Paul (from "48-SPOKES")
Thanks Trev, another cracking video. So much great info. We beggars can’t be choosers so whenever your next video comes out is fine.
The best video, from the best professional. I only want to learn how to avoid rust (and to protect of corrosión) on my 77 Jeep Cj5. I didn't know what goes first (over bare metal car body) a primer or direct body schutz.
Here in Venezuela the economy is very bad and it's difficult to have all this 3M products you show. I only want the minimun basics. Thank you Trev.
Really good video! So many people put thousands of hours into a resto and don't apply any common sense into rust prevention. We use a mix of cavity wax, fish oil and thinners 1:1:1 to spray inside box section and internal cavities like sills. Why, because it creeps between the gap where two pieces of metal are welded together. For two summers after a treatment I'm seeing the mix cream out of every joint on the underside of the car potentially protecting the areas where two pieces of steel are spot welded together. I also deliberately drill drain holes in sills and leave them open to let water out. Works for us, fish oil doesn't smell very pleasant, but by the time the engine is in and the interior done the smell has gone.
Really love your videos. I’m brand new to body work and I’ve loads to do! 😂 thanks 🙏
It's been a while, but well worth the wait. Another really helpful video that filled significant gaps in my knowledge. Love the outro music.
As usual great content. Prep is 90% of job. Love the safety aspects
Nice to see you Trev,i enjoyed the show!!
Good Man. Good to see you back on TH-cam
Fantastic resource of a vital and much misunderstood aspect of car maintenance and repair.
I learn so much from your videos Trev I just wish it was available 20-30 years ago .
Your time and projects are very important and it would be selfish of us to expect regular videos of this length and detail. How about producing a regular weekly short podcast of say ....5-10 minutes and once a month a longer tutorial .(.time permitting of course. ) that way you can keep us up to date with progress without hours of video and editing work and we will get our regular 'fix ' !
I do like the Dinitrol products. I particularly like the Dynax clear for engine bay protection and as you say dries tack free. Thanks for sharing the wax and underseal product varieties, always nice to see a product actually applied .
Hi YTrevor. Good to see you back. So much information!!. My notepad is now quite full as i will never remember it all. Many thanks.
Your such a valid person, after you talked about the chemical zinc treatments i believe you can get a paintable galvanised finish. Was taking about metal sheds at the time.
This is exactly the info I need, you present it in a very understandable way and I hope you will continue to share your knowledge and experience, for me as an amateur it is invaluable. Thank you.
Thank you very much for this! Very good to clear up some misconceptions that is out there. I definitely learned a lot from this.
And that stepnose Alfa... My favorite car of all time, I think.
Fantastic to have you back yet again trevor 😀👍
Nice to see you, Trev! You have been missed!!
A brilliant video Trev, I'm restoring a 1969 Commer PB Autosleeper and one of the biggest/most important jobs will be to apply/reapply protection to the underframe once I'm finished with removal of the old coatings and repairs, even if I don't go with the same products your observations on what to use where and why will be very much at the forefront of my considerations!
Good to have you back Trev. Brilliant video, wish i'd watched this before I painted and wax oiled the repaired sections of the Ford Puma last summer. Already looking forward to the next video. Van looks fantastic!!
I think with all your experience and knowledge you would be a great night school lecturer
Welcome back trev, i'm super happy with the rust buster finish on the hilux, thanks for the tip!
Mini Man Shed glad you’re happy with the results Martin. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev,
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us . It all makes real good sense the way you do things, I look forward to trying out some of your recommendations.
Kind regards Paul
Great video Trev. Van is looking great, and that is good stuff you are using and should keep your van in good condition for many years to come.
Cheers, Jeff.
cabdriveruk Lets hope so Jeff. Cheers Trev 👍
This video has been very informative. I am just about to undertake restoring my pickup chassis and was not sure what to protect it with after i had done all the hard graft on it. Your help and advice has been well worth watching. Many thanks Trev.
Good to see you back Trev great video as usual. Loads to learn thanks
I am so relieved that you were not abducted by aliens again!!! Thanks for all the videos. I know that it takes a lot of time to make them, but a lot of people get a lot of knowledge and enjoyment from them.
Was just thinking yesterday that it's been some time since Trev posted a video...glad to have you back!
It's interesting to see how you tackle the undercoating problem on your side of the pond. Over here in the US (especially here in the northeast) it's not uncommon for people to annually undercoat their cars with used motor oil or summer formula bar & chain oil (used for chain saws). There are also a number of lanolin-based undercoating products that work really well, though they also need to be reapplied annually.
The lack of permanence is the key as they won't hold moisture against the steel like a permanent undercoating can do. Once saw a vid posted by a mechanic of him under a ~6 year old truck whose frame was totally rotted out due to the failure of a permanent undercoating treatment. Even here in the "Salt Belt" where we plaster the roads with salt during our harsh winters 6 years is pretty quick for that amount of damage.
Chris Freemesser you’ve highlighted well the point that different environments demand different precautions. Cheers Trev 👍
Fantastic informative video, thank you ! Interesting that the MOD used a range of Dinitrol products on the “Wolf” Land Rover Defenders as opposed to their earlier attempts with under seal 😉
Welcome back we missed you. 🍺
Welcome back Trevor missed ya👍
great video Trev, lots of good info that covers a lot of the stuff you see done wrong. Dont know how many times i see undercoats and seam sealer onto bare metal or galvanised steel in my line of work. I'd love to see some of your tips on painting in the colder months and on accelerators or fast hardeners!
just used some marine grade rust inhibiting primer called corroless s1. used it on some exposed brackets underneath my alfa 159 the stuff seems really good its brush on so doesn't leave a great finish but seems like its pretty bombproof and over-paintable. Really enjoy these videos learned a lot of handy tips and tricks cheers!
Did miss you but it's good you are busy but it does take alot out you , it's better being busy than not , good to see you and thanks for showing these things, I'm broke but still trying to change that , have heaps of ideas to do but will do the simplest things first then go from there 👍🏾👍🏾👊
Great video Trev, looking forward to using some of the products
Excellent video very informative about the killer rust and preventive products Thanks.
Why do I always feel like a noob with a spray can when I watch your videos? LOL... Glad to see you back and as always I learned a few more things in this video. Just remember that Life is what happens when you are making other plans. Or, Take care of yourself first...
Nice work Trev, some very good Information and perfect timing for my rally build. Keep up the good work sir
The Gentlemen's Motor Racing Team thanks Kev, great to hear from you. Cheers Trev 👍
Good to see you back posting vids, love the channel!
You need to do what you need to do mate. Good to see you back.
Thanks for sharing them tips Trev , nice to see you back
Welcome back Trev, hope you are doing ok mate!
Been thinking of you lately, take it easy. All the best to you and Miss Bird.
Would you use a rust converter or a phosphoric acid type neutraliser in pitted rust that you cant properly get away before epoxy mastic? Or does the epoxy mastic seal this off and not require the converter?
alan hainey once metal has started to rust, it will re-rust far faster than brand new steel, I believe this situation occurs because the surface area has increased, rust holds on to moisture better than bare steel it’s more porous etc. In a way the rust isn’t an issue as it’s the byproduct of corrosion, rust is just a passive substance that isn’t doing anything other than aiding the further corrosion on the steel by the means I’ve already mentioned. I’ve trialled loads of rust remedies and hand on heart I haven’t found anything that doesn’t just treat the very top surface, once you scrape away the dried activated rust converter/neutraliser your back to untouched rust. The other issue with rust neutralising products is that they’re usually an acid type product that is corrosive and can reactivate once dampened and the residue they create isn’t a very stable surface for paint to adhere to. Obviously the more rust you can remove the better the adhesion will be between the Epoxy mastic and the steel. Shot blasting is probably the most effective preparation but of course that isn’t always an easy process to do, so often using abrasives is the most straightforward way to prepare the surface before coating with Epoxy. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog thanks for the reply trev.
That makes sense, im just trying to figure out the best course of action for my mk2 golf shell. Its all stripped to bare shell. I have started to just attack each bit of rot at a time then seal with epoxy primer, with the intention of taking it all back to bare metal again and giving the whole car a spray with epoxy. My thinking was once i have say the floor all back to bare metal, give it a wipe with rust buster por-15 before coating it in epoxy. The bits of pitted rust im talking about is the black pits that you cant get anything more out of with a wire wheel?would i be better just cutting these pits out? And replacing with new metal?
Is there a US dealer for that red 3M cavity gun shown @21:22. ????
When I searched for it all I found was UK sources.
What about finding an eBay uk tool seller and ask them if they’ll post to the US? Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog
Thanks for the shout-out. I'll go that route if I can't find a source here.
You are producing GREAT content!
Thank you, appreciated 👍
Good to see you back Trev..
Great vid, and very timely - I'm just at the stage of waxing mine after painting, so useful indeed. I'd certainly agree on the rotisserie, I did my cars' entire underside (stripping, welding and painting) lying on the floor with the car about six inches from my nose. If I were to do this again, I'd definitely invest in a rotisserie!
I totally agree. I am restoring and finishing off a project I started 30 plus years ago. Still no rotisserie but going to get friends over to help me turn over the chassis (after the body is removed) so I can finish off the welding.
thought you gone into hibernation winter and all that.
Great return with real automotive problems addressed,
fantastic although here where he temp can reach mid 40s,
put a spray wax on my Mk2 Escort inside cavities,runs everywhere
Hi Trev, I was wondering what colour the Porsche at 10:40 on the video is please?.... Thank you.... Russ
I’m really not sure to be honest and due to the virus I’m not at the workshop. I don’t think it was a Porsche colour. Lots of manufacturers are now using these kinds of colours. Cheers Trev
That's a beautiful finish, Thanks for the info.
I have used a product called POR-15. It is a rust encapsulator and works very well. There is also the same product put out by Hirsch and I have read where it works very well. Both of these products work the same way. They are put on over rust and dry to a rock hard but pliable surface. You must first scrape the loose rust off first before applying. It can also be spayed and comes in grey or semi black colors. It can be top coated also.
Nice to see you posting again. Wish i had heard your thoughts on bedliner before i just used it on my vehicle. Hope my being in a dry climate will save me from any problems too soon. Keep the advise coming.
Ziebart was the best in the early 70s i can remember it as being like waxy underseal , cars were under steam cleaned then this was blasted on .
My car already has the factory Schutz finish which has held up really well for 20 odd years I have owned it. The car its 30 years old now and is being stripped right down so, was thinking on just steam cleaning underneath, to remove dirts etc. Then spend time removing rust (not much) and remove the factory stuff and then epoxy primer and Schutz, then factory colour over the top. The only concern is the roughing up of the epoxy primer surface before the Schutz some areas might be a bit hard due to the way the panels are formed.
I really missed your vids... Watching this with great interest for my own restoration... I use Sigma Cover 280 on the bare metal, it is marine grade epoxy primer...
Used this stuff have also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner
"also had good results with, epoxy primer and bed liner" same here, you MUST epoxy then bedliner over a well prepped surface otherwise your in a world of pain - the epoxy is doing the main work - bedliner protects the epoxy
Hello Trev. Great vid. Learned heaps that I'm putting into practise! Please can you say what sort of adaptor / collet thing you used on the die grinder for the abrasives / conditioning wheels / flap disks? Is there a typical set up or does it depend on the abrasive? Be very handy to know more!
Hi it’s basically a Roloc mandrel which can be purchased from eBay etc. you can then use any disc that has a Roloc backing including copy discs which are of course cheaper. Typically I have found 50 grit grinding discs and surface conditioning discs the most useful 👍
@@trevsblog Many thanks. I heard you using the term in the vid, but didn't know it was 'a system'. I now do. I'll be getting some disks, pads etc. I've also just bought a 6mm mandrel for smaller abrasive / cut disks.
Project Farm has a video about comparing truck bed liners, for lower budget spray cans. Also about using Fluid Film spray every fall. Sweet Project Cars has a video about melting vaseline for inside door panels. One trick is filling a cavity with a spray foam insulation- no room for mice to make a nest, and no room for water and mud, also blocks noise.
Trev, the PU sealer has been very good to me, just need to put some epoxy primer on top of it before painting.
Very good an helpful video, Trev. Regarding protecting already rusted areas, mainly cavities: there is a product called Mike Sander - a special mixture of different types of greases. It feels almost like soft wax but it is grease. It is said to stop the rust 100% and has excellent creeping properties. The downside is that it is very messy to apply and later on - the car may start dripping in the summer sun for quite some time.
NICE to see you are back !!
Good stuff as always 👍
Hi Trev do you think 121 could be applied on an aluminium engine block ? Cheers 👍
Good to see you back 👍
Really enjoy watching your videos I also do Autobody anyway hello from Calgary Alberta Canada good day Eh
Really excellent info there Trev. You just convinced me to go for that epoxy treatment on my Jensen FF restoration.
Schultz was the Sergeant in "Hogan's Heroes". The underbody coating is Schutz. ...........but you knew that Trev :)
Good stuff as always.
Which wire wheels and cutting and grinding discs you should use double eye protection- googles and a full face mask. As you said the wires fling off everywhere... a leather welders jacket or similar is great to stop the wired sticking in your arms and stomach
Amazing work you do and great overview on the part of finishing a restoration that, quite frankly, can keep you up at night, not knowing if you selected the right product for each section. I came across a product from New Zealand which is made from, wait for it, sheep´s wool, and is called Prolan. It's used to protect farming equipment but has made it's way into the underbody protection world and is gaining popularity, especially in the scandinavian countries with their salty and harsh winters. A professional underbody company here in Iceland switched to it some years ago, coming from Fluid Film, which wasn't performing up to his standards. He swears by it after some years of experience.
Supposedly this Prolan is self healing and encapsulates, so it will stop rust that has begun to form. It withstands pressure washing and grime solvents so it won't wash of inadvertantly.
I'd be interested to hear if you have tried it or know someone using it and how it's performing.
Thank you trev really well done.
Good to see you Trev, still a ways off waxing yet, I paint my epoxy with a big pressure pot, works great. Just about finished the front clip, then working down the bad side
At 5:50 I know how they say Eric Clapton felt after watching Hendrix play.... I don't know how you reached all those crannies.
How long did brushing the chassis take?
boostismagic it took a long time, I never really take note of the time taken as I do this for a more enjoyable life. I have found that people that do things in a time don’t do things very well. My time has been monitored very closely by all those that I have worked for in the past. Worked for. (Past tense). Cheers Trev 👍
It's really motivating to see that done, thank you. My old truck is a small, I guess y'all call them yutes...'73 Datsun.
Man, it's frame feels so much less daunting after seeing yours!
I know exactly what you mean about the bosses.
Quite late here in Texas..1:45 am...but stuck at home for a while longer, so no alarm clock.
Wanted to watch something fun before bed, and wow! Trev's checking in!