How to remove, install axle shaft, inspect clicking CV joint, VW Passat and Audi A4 A6 DIY driveaxle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- www.myturbodies... for more details on this model. I recommend www.raxles.com for quality rebuilt replacement axles. This video shows DIY driveaxle axle replacement. The CV joint was clicking so it was replaced with a high quality rebuilt axle. The model shown is a B5 VW Passat which is the same as similar generation Audi A4, A6, A8 but these tips can apply to most cars.
Thanks to this video I was able to do this job myself on my 2004 VW Passat Wagon 1.8T (standard transmission) !!!
***Might be worth noting or editing this video to show that in order to tighten the inner cv joint bolts the vehicle must either be in gear or one must insert lug nuts into the brake caliper to keep the axle from rotating. A screwdriver alone in the caliper would not hold it in my case. Please excuse me if any of my comments are inaccurate. I'm a total novice. Thank you Myturbodiesel for the Video and Raxles for a terrific product.
This was seriously a great video to learn from. It really isn’t that hard of a job once you watch your tutorial and study up on it. Thank you for taking your time to help others learn to fix their own vehicles so we don’t have to spend thousands at dealerships. Def gotta thumbs up and a new subscriber here.
Thanks for the right up. '01 Audi allroad. Inner boot was torn. Really bad vibration on acceleration. Stick on 6mt would vibrate violently on accelration. Triple square bolts are just crazy. First 5 bolts came out easy. Stripped last bolt of course. Mixed ATF and acetone 50/50 as a penetrating. Tried vice grips no luck. Propane heat and vice grips, no luck. Drilled thru with reverse bit and reverse extractor. Could not get enough pressure to get extractor to drill into the bolt. Had to break out the sawzall with bimetal blade. Split head bolt in half to make a slot. Intention was to put a flat head bit into the slot and turn it with pneumatic drill. Slot not wide enough for flat head bit. Took long chisel to the slot to make it wider. Half the head came off. Side hammered the remaining piece of the bolt head. Finally success, the dam thing moved. Used the extractor bit to remove the bolt. 20 min to put the axle in according to your video.
No need to remove the knuckle. It was a little tight in there. I did use three jack stands for extra safety. I'm no mechanic but vids like yours give me the confidence to give it a try.
Just wanted to let you know you are a great teacher! I contacted Raxles last night and they got back to me on a sunday! Nice people for sure! I emailed him and mentioned you in the email! I really appreciate people like yourself who take the time to make such informative videos.
Thanks for making this easy! Found pulling on shaft expands length so there seemed not enough room in A4 b5. I had to grab the inner flange and pull to compress both joints and shorten the whole shaft. Shift inner toward front, then really use full length of axle bolt to push out splined end. Push/pull joints, not shaft, and keep is short. Same on install, use bolt to pull splined outer into hub, then compress and slide in the inner. Raxles are best, but FYI, no flange bolts incl. for Audis.
Good video. No BS and just the right amount of good humour.
drivers side cvc axle replacement for 2001 volkswagon jetta automatic transmission
Are those rims the 'Montreal II's?
A breath of fresh air, this was the most well explained video on TH-cam, its just like being bk at college, top bloke
Ok, I've tried working with this video for my 2008 Audi A4 B7 2.0t and unfortunately this video doesn't completely help. You all the way, I mean it's spot on for but you cannot access the third screw or middle screw at the top of the shield that you need to remove to maneuver the drive axle out. This video got me so close and I applaud the details.
Having never replaced a cv joint/axel before, I found your video very helpful and giving me the confidence to diy. Reinstalling the axel will hopefully be as easy as removal...
In 2024, O'Reilly has good deals on NEW CV Axles that fix this problem for the life of the vehicle, IMO. In the USA...
Great video. I just replaced both axles on my 1999 B5 (Passat V6 automatic transmission) and it was truly easier than I thought. I did need to buy a couple of tools I didn't have (1/2" breaker bar from Amazon, hex socket set, and a 17mm Hex socket). I agree that the manual states to remove the suspension arms, but for my vehicle this is completely unnecessary, as you mention in the video. This saves lots of time and bruised knuckles! Just follow the video and you are home free.. Thanks for the video!
Just did the axles on an 04 Passat. Your video was extremely informative and helped us knock out the job with ease! Used Raxles this time. They feel twice as strong as the cheap Chinese crap from the parts stores. Thanks for spending the time on this video.
Great Video. Going to get dirty this weekend on my 2001 A4. My experience with RAXLES was above what I expected.
Great vid
I have done my own brakes for years
but was always afraid to replace axles
I will definitely use your tips when I replace axles on my Passat
Thanks again!
BTW- that was a well behaved cat
thank you VERY MUCH.
this is one of the most detailed and professional videos i have seen on the subject!!
V. V v. V. V. V. v. , ggofkxgf
My sons Passat is a 2002, I think that makes it a B5.5? Hope this is the same. I am going to try this this week. 17mm hex, 10mm triple square bit, 6mm hex for heatshiled, hopefully 2 correct axles from Cardone.
Thanks for mixing in some humor. I'm going to replace both sides on my B5.5 this week. I did buy rebuilt from auto parts store and noticed the VW/Audi stamp on the joints. It will be interesting to compare them to OEM. I was surprised both outer OEM boots were completely split after 75k miles. Took 175k for one to split on my Honda. Love the VW though.
I would buy from Raxles. I bought two within the last week and have never been so satisfied by a supplier! The packaging was very great, came along with torque specs, tools, pre paid shipping label, new 17mm allen bolt and the 6 bolts that hold the axle to the transmission. What more could you ask for.. For that price. Ill pay more money upfront for these, rather than buying autozone and have to replace it 8 months down the road... No my choice. Thanks myturbodieseld0tcom for your review!
Very well done and comprehensive. Thank you. Ive been working on VWs since the early 70s.
This video is PERFECT!!! Exactly what I needed to see. I drive a 00 Audi A4 1.8tqm and the right side boot is torn. You gave me enough confidence to wrench it myself and save some money on labor!
6:15 "I like to loosen the hex bolts with hand tools so I can inevitably strip them out later with the air gun." 🤣🤣🤣
Probably one of the best diy videos on youtube. Thank you for your video.
Cats are amazing !!! just small lions!! This is one of the most excellent videos for axle removal on Audi you make it look simple.. very informative to the point and clear. Thanks didn’t know about regrinds!!
My Jetta uses the same lug bolts. I find that 11/16 is a very good fit IF you can't find your 17 mm. USE THE 17 mm if you can find it, 11/16 will work for those bad days when you can't find the correct tool. Both the 11/16 and 17 mm seem to be close in size enough that you might grab one thinking you have the other.
What type of air compressor and air tools do you have/use?
Awesome video man!! This is EXACTLY what I needed. I don't have the maintenance manual-- so the only thing that would have really helped this video more is if you gave torque specs for the bolts--Thanks for the RAXLES link too I will totally mention you.
This video helped me a lot to replace my drive shaft. Thanks for taking the time to post it and also for your web site that has lots of other useful guides. I just wanted you to know that it's really appreciated.
This is great!! Love it, I only wish I would have seen it before I took My 2005 TDI into the VW Dealer and paid 800.00 to have them change out the motor mounts to stop the vibration. NOT
Can you please reply with the tools size and type you use to get the CV joint out?! Need to go to the store to buy them. Thanks in advance!
you made popping out that axle easier than it was at least for me.
Totally didn't recognize the cat rubbing on his arm until he was done speaking lol.. Professional review 5 stars***** Thank you for your help!
That video was really good but a couple of question I hope you can answer.
Was your wheel off the ground? I had replaced driveshaft off the ground, does that make any difference ?
First I had replaced front outer driveshaft/boot(joint) on left and right side. Left side started making grinding noise and i replaced that with a new driveshaft (STARK) . I drove around a while and clicking sound appears now, what could that be ?
Hello, I saw your video and I liked it.
Friend, I have a 1997 Audi A6 2.4, Tiptronic. I realized that when the car has the engine running he is dribbling the exchange oil. When the engine is turned off not drip anything. If the car got underway he loses the exchange oil until there comes a time that Automatic passages not occur. If put in manual mode it accepts but with difficulties. If behest scoring the exchange of oil it back to normal but whenever I use the car until he loses it no longer give any march.
What will be the reason for the loss of the exchange oil?
I made a computerized diagnosis and the result was this:
00268 solenoid s-n92
00266 solenoid s-n93
00300 gearbox oil temperature sender - G93
Can you tell me what you mean these errors?
What will be the reasons for oil leaking?
A few months ago i toke the car to a guy to change the CV Boots, and after that the problem os oil leak started.
Can you help me telling how to solve this problem (oil leaking)?
OMG he is so right about the axles, I change my axles more than i change my breaks on my paSSAT in last few years.
Thank you dude, great video and has helped me determine the knocking noise from my CV joints. Will be replacing both sides tomorrow. But best advice from you about the vibrations and replace the whole axle rather than engine mounts as so many people have told me since i got my dual mass flywheel done that the mounts could have cracked but its exactly as you said vibration on idle from the inner joint. Will be replacing both sides tomorrow on my Audi A3 2.0tdi DSG Sline 2007 model!
Great help, appreciate it. And love the cat!!!
Hey, I just want to thank you for your video. It helped me out a ton today. I was working on a 2005 Passat 1.8T Auto. The repair manual I have said to take the entire steering knuckle out. Man, was I happy I came across your vedio while looking for an easier way to do it. Once again, thank you. Awesome video! :)
Thank you very much for the detailed and explanation / recommendation of the critical parts. I am not a fan of my 07 Jetta GLI Turbo 210k but it is people like yourself that keep me hanging on to it. Again Thank you
Love the precise nature of this video, with just enough theory and tips. You did wonderful - I wish most were as concise as this.
11:00 mins in and we get some bonus internet cat, thanks for the good video. You've done all the research.
Great video, really educational. Question for ya: I've got an Audi A4 and have been experiencing the ''clicking'' noise that is synonymous for the failed CV Joint. Also, when accelerating between 60 and 80mph, the car will vibrate violently at times. Would this be caused by the CV Joint as well?
Same symptons here
Trying desperatley to install my raxle axle without removing that pinch bolt. However, on the W8 passat it looks like the catalytic converter is in the way of the axle to shove it up and in like you did.
That being said, will removing the pinch bolt really get you that much space? Doesn't seem like it would to me, I only need about 4mm of clearance to get everything in place.
those centre bolts can be really really tight , and I mean really tight. Handy video as I didnt know I could get away without dropping ball joints etc.
used the same method on 2004 skoda 2.5 tdi v6 diesel worked a treat thanks a lot
great vid, thanks for the help. those pinch bolts are a PITA. had to change my control arms on a B6, used heat and air hammer to pull it....no fun
Very informative. The sound's been driving me crazy-now I know what to buy and how to fix it.
Cheers.
This is the best DIY car vid on youtube.
Another good video Chitty, the forum has gone crap since you sold the forum, the TDI Wiki link doesn't show now
Excellent vid. Im having trouble maneuvering the website, would you happen to know off the top of your head how much itll cost me for a pair? Only one of my joints is bad but my passat is at 137k and i dont know how the previous owner treated it so i suppose it would be smart just to change both of them while ive got the car in the shop?
VERY VERY WELL DONE!!! its so hard to find videos like this for my a4
if I have a loud clack only when I turn right is that the cv joint
Excellent, EXCELLENT video! Great audio/video quality and great directions and detail along the way. At times it sounds like you're reading a script but that's probably because you know what you're doing.
p-i-p-e 300 dollars... that was hillarious, couldn't stop laughing 😂
Does the tools you spoke on come with the axle when you purchase it ? or person has to go buy those components ?
Good vid man. Still helpin people in 2019.
I'm about to go at this on my 2001 Passat. Thanks for the vid and badass cat!
Best part of the video is fighting with the cat 🐱 what is the cats name and will it feature in future videos 😂
Hi there, great video. Is it normal for axle to move side to side? I replaced mine at Firestone and some time later I started getting a noise when car is rolling or at about 20-30 mph. It does not happen when I turn and it is coming from the passenger side. Any thoughts? Could it be wheel bearing? I had also seen that video of yours.
Thanks
Thanks! my god. I knew it couldn't be THAT hard. And I'm stoked to see that its quick. I know it can be up to 35 minutes per side. I bought brand new OEM axles for both sides. Thanks for being awesome.
Very good information. Size bolts and tools used and points of interest in addition to overview and problem issue are helpful. I would suggest getting a ball and socket rather than the universal you use as they can flip with power tools and do not deliver constant torque. SnapOn tool is work the price over cheaper ones. Thanks for the GREAT video. Also the power boot spreader is really helpful for installing boots without disassemble. Never use the split boots that are sold as a fix for damaged boots.
Thanks for a great video. Not so easy to get the old axle out of the wheel assembly, but easier than removing suspension parts, I guess. Piece of cake to install the new axle. RAXLES rock!
How did you get that passenger axle out? What is the make, model, and engine? I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T AWM, I think it is a B5, but not sure. Couldn't get it out, struggled for and hour, gave up, and put it all back.
Great vid. Just wondering, should the inner joint rollers be able to pop out easily? I suddenly lost drive - on inspection I discovered the driveshaft had popped out from the inner joint! The boot rubber is ok, not sure what happened to the clip that holds it onto the inner joint. The inner joint bearings are a little worn, but I wouldn't have expected the shaft to be able to pop out like that when driving.
my cousin has a 2002 Volkswagen passat wagon with a 1.8L engine. i saw in video here that the center bolt was regular looking. 17mm Hex socket type nut is on her wheel. An there is a M10 Torx Bit required i gather are for the 6 bolts close to engine. Can you use the regular looking bolt in place of the wheel center 17mm Hex nut ? If yes what bolt can be safely used ? What are the torque Specs to button everything thats been taken loose ? Thanks
Did you buy an OEM axle, If so/not were there any problems in the long run?
Thanks for a great video! I just replaced the front drivers side axle (with a Raxles axle of course) on my A4 B5 30v and this video was perfect. The only difference on mine was a heat shield with 3 allen head bolts that was easily removed first.
I'm possibly about to buy an 98 Audi a4 with a bad cv . Guy already has a replacement but I don't have the socket pieces for it.
Where an how much did you get yours that You showed in the box, plus with everything else you replaced?
Thanks
Excellent video, helped a lot. Thought changing the axle on my volkswagen would be harder than all of the other non-vw cars Ive done the job on, but it appears to be pretty simple. Thank you!
My cv joints came with the left end (Car end) uncapped, grease was all inside the shipping bag. Is it still good or should i send em back?
Would be shocked to get an answer but is this how a 2007 Volkswagen Passat 2.0 fwd is set up?
Hello, I want to know the size of the screws please. So I’ll buy the correct screwdrivers thank you
Would a bad axle rattle or clank successfully upon acceleration? Or rattle in general if badly damaged, or prolonged use?
On a 2004 Passat Wagon GLS 1.8L Turbo you need to jack the suspension all the way to the top to get the CV joint out on passenger side, didn't do Drivers. I almost lost my mind he makes it look so easy! For anyone else having this issue!
Portalnator Back from the dead Holy I thought I was an idiot I was struggling so hard, but you were right I had to do the same thing as you on the driver's side.
Yes it doesn't come out like in the video the exhaust is in the way. Thank you!!
+Portalnator Back from the dead
I have the same vehicle, the Drivers side came out without jacking suspension. I pulled the inner CV joint out, forward and up first. Could then slip outer cv joint out.
+Portalnator Back from the dead
Your tip in this commnt saved me a ton of trouble last night. I really appreciate it. So true that it isn't as easy as he makes it look in the video without jacking the suspension all the way up.
I'm hoping this is going to fix my Passat's problem.
If I'm driving and come to a stop I can turn the wheel either way with no vibrations but during acceleration if I'm turning the wheels (such as into a turn) I feel and hear a sort of slow shudder in the wheel. Thought maybe since it was during a left or right turn it might be the power steering but it doesn't do it at a standstill so maybe not.
I have clicking when I turn the wheel both ways but also very bad vibrations when accelerating. It comes and goes but is getting more frequent. Would the CV axles be the culprit for both issues?
Question: I noticed after a wheel bearing job that the shop hadn't tightened the cotter pin properly and it was basically loose. Is that anything to worry about? I've been driving over a month with it.
bought an autozone cv axle and got it installed. The axle made a buzzing noise when pressing the gas. After that i remove it and took it back and got a replacement. I got home and opened the replacement and the boot was completely broken. Took it back and got another replacement and this time my cars steering started to malfunction. I just took it back they paid for the mechanic and got my money back. Pretty bad experience.
Hey, great video! I'm doing this to a audi a4 b6 3.0 Quattro, and I cant reach the top bolt for the heat shield. Any tips on getting it out of there? Or maybe work a around leaving the heat shield in? Thanks!
Hi chris, hope you're fine, my engine mounts and transmission mount are fine but still i have clunking sounds whenever i shift the gear from drive to reverse, i can hear also the clunk sounds when i accelerate suddenly, could be this a cv joint? Take note, i don't have clicking sounds when turning either left or right, no steering vibration as well, could be a worn cv joint or a sway bar? My car is honda civic 2008 AT, thanks in advance!
I don't get that clacking noise when turning. I do get a similar shaking when i accelerate and brake. DO you think it's CV joint? I don't get play in my wheel when i jack up the car (it doesn't wiggle).
Would the drive axle being bad make the vehicle vibrate under acceleration? Or just click when turning? My car jitters when on the gas, but idles and revs normal. Heeeeeelllllllp please!
I've had this problem going on in my 02 vw jetta, I just had the axles and lower control arms replaced about a month ago, after a few weeks of driving my car with brand new axles and control arms, my car still knocks when turning to the right and accelerating. Any idea what could be making the knocking noise?
P.S I also checked the tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, struts (etc.) everything seems to be in check
$180 for oem new axle at Big O Tires. Should I purchase the whole axle or just the cv joint and boot? It doesn't vibrate, only clicks when I'm not driving in a straight line. What's cheaper and easier? Thanks for the help.
Why is too far to turn the wheel all the way when taking the axle out? Are you damaging something?
I've unfortunate enough to have the 1.6 (propably not one you got in the US), but is it possible to just replace the actual CV joint? As it seems hard to find a shaft for my engine. 1999 Passat B5 3b
Excellent video, both for the info and production quality. Just noticed a torn CV Boot on my '03 Passat while repairing something unrelated. No clicking, so I'll try to patch the boot with one of those quickie kits and save up for new axles when that inevitable day comes.
How do you feel about those boot repair kits?
is it bad to keep driving if the cv joints makes little noise?
Great video with proper lighting, angle, focus, and special "cat" effects. Now, as for the spline fasteners, I appreciate your calling out of the size--it sure made me appreciate regular SAE & M 6 point cap screws on my USA built equipment. Remind me of any possible advantage internal spline has over a grade 8, 6 point nut or cap??? Thanks.
a1 auto in the states 2003 passat w8 front cv axle replacement full kit for a pair 125.xx instead of 1700 usd
not oem but built to vw spec apparently no complaints
its actually on a polo which has the one lower arm which links to the swivel hub. so just one balljoint. im thinking. what tools do you need for the innercv joint. it looks quite awkward to get a rachert in there. any special tools which will help?
Very helpful! Everything was pretty much the same on my 2002 audi a4. very glad i found this. dont know what i would have done without this.
THANKS!!!!!
Excellent video. However, this isn't going to work with a standard transmission on the right side unless you use a jack and raise the suspension. After much frustration I figured this out but must have damaged that white sensor that is visible once you remove the heat shields as now the car will not start and has the symptoms of a bad camshaft sensor. Does anyone know what that white sensor is under that heat shield? Google searches come up with nothing. Might be using wrong key words but always get lame results.
How to replace a wheel bearing on VW Passat 2006. Is it passable to press it in the new one or do I have to change hole one?
Doing the Job on my Audi TT Quatro. Thanks for the video.
Do you need to use new nuts connecting the inner flange to the transmission?
I have a question about the vibration. you said the aftermarket or bad axles can cause the vibration when idle , drive or reverse. I just replaced the aftermarket axles and cause vibration only at highway speed 65-90(or more). I am just wondering if it is just about the axles. I did two time tire balance. but it still there. BTW, your video is really amazing, which make me wanna replace it on my own. :) thumb up!
why would you replace the whole axel if only the outer or inner joint failed?
Hi, i have an audi a6 with a bad axle i just changed one on an eclipse and it leaked transmission fluid, but i didnt see any fluid run out when you did it, should i buy fluid before changing the axle or is it ok to change without having backup fluid
I changed he brake hoses on a 2002 a4 1.9 diesel. fully bled the brakes and pressure will hold, no leake or air in the system. During test I noticed that if i pump the brakes constantly I loose brake pressure pedal uses same travel range but less brake force is applied. Any advice/tips?
Is this process similar on a 2010 q5 3.2? And also is the inner hardware a one time use or can I use it again?
I have one question I own a 2005 Audi all road when I drive straight or when I turn either way it clicks that same noise could it still be the axle or is it in the transmission
Thank man saved a lot of money following this video to the T