I just went through this on my 86 F-250. I fought trying to work around the Hub. Finally I removed the Axle, Lock net assy., and pulled the Hub off. catch the outer bearing so it doesn`t fall in the ground. Then replacing the Brake Shoes, Springs etc... goes together in less than 30 MIN. Replace the Hub inner Seal. Just dip the Bearings in diff. oil. No need to pack in grease. Push Hub on, install outer bearing and tighten lock Nut as per spects. And install Axle. If tou have the ratchet nut, will need Socket W83008, Oil Seal PSO 370047A from O`Reilly
FYI - My 1994 F250 rear passenger brake line was a 3/16 and 1/4 at the wheel. I got a 1/4,1/4 and found the need for 3/16, well S***T. Dorman 785-434d 1/4 x 3/16 brake line adapter from O'Reilly's and $7 saved me.
Thanks for doing this! I've watched a lot of DIY videos but yours was the best. Why? Well its just about the way I would tackle a problem I didnt exactly know how to do. Your OOp's were spot on and really taught the thinking ahead part of the job. I'm sure you will save many a new DIYer out there a lot of time and aggravation. Loved it!
Thank you sir for taking the time to make the videos. I have the same vehicle. When I took it apart, there were springs at the bottom of the drum that had fallen off. Nice to be able to use your video as a reference. Thanx again
Thanks for posting. This video did my rear brake shoes well one side struggled with the 2. Small springs getting them back on. Seem they should have. A custom long tool
hey, not sure if i thanked you yet. anyway, i am so grateful to you for making this video. i can't believe you took the time to shoot and post this to help us. i have never done Drum brakes before and the other flashy videos that i watched had totally different drum spring configurations--so when i pulled off the tires and looked at my rear brakes i had no idea how to deal with the springs. one of them had broken and jammed behind one of the pads. anyway, your video literally saved me about 2k. drum brakes are wacky but they really do work great, and i love how they feel on the roadway. but those springies are nuts. heh. you are a cool dude for posting this. thank you so much.
oh! i will just add that i use the CLEAR lens 3m eye protectors and a 3m cartridge respirator while dealing with these brakes. i don't like having to use these protective agents but the springs can fly out and hit people in the face, and the old brake dust is almost invisible and REALLY nasty. i also wear long sleeves. the brake dust gets into the lungs and sticks to the skin. it just gets everywhere! really nasty stuff and often these pads are made of asbestos. cheers mates!
Thank you very much for the kind words. Nice to hear instead of the criticism, makes me want to do this full time ;) For whatever reason I only recorded this brake job but I replaced the whole brake system on the truck. Cheers
@@northbeachfilms Respirators and recording don't work well together. Next time I should record and just do a voice over so I could protect myself properly
You're human and show character by admitting mistakes. Getting ready to do same job on my 97 HD. Watched a video that said you MUST pull axle to do the job. Was hoping not to have to( although it does look like it would be easier). And for all those who want to belittle him for not being an internet pro, please leave a link to your video so we can all critique you !! Thanks for video.
Hello, Ive done these brakes on my 91 F250 twice now. 3" shoes, 12" drums. So, its best to pull the driveshaft 5/8" head bolts and then remove the hub and bearings. The hub is removed with the special tool, has 4 notches and a dowl like center. The tricky part is getting the hub seal off without damaging it. It bonds to the axle and the drum. It turns inside itself. Thats how it works. Axle oil lubricates the bearings, that seal keeps oil inside. After its removed the shoe plate can be accessed easily. Working around that hub makes the job difficult. GW
Your going to have to take that other side back apart. because there's a primary and a secondary shoe on each side.the shoe with the shorter lining on it goes to the front of the vehicle.
After doing the 1997 e250 rear shoes and some hardware replaced I remember which type of breaks I dislike(s) the most when I did it professionally.these are the ones...so simple yet so Mickey Moused also.
Trust me u ain’t the only one who’s done that Lol I’ve done that plenty of times u just think wrong some times it happens but I needed to see this video tho bought a 350 and gotta do brakes
I guess by now he's learned about primary and secondary brake shoes. They are not the same, one has more asbestos than the other... pads are two lengths.
@@FixthisCD sht happens, thanks for the video. Always like to watch someone struggle and foresee all the problems that may arise before i jump in myself hahaha
I don't remember but from this video (th-cam.com/video/5X49tnJO2jI/w-d-xo.html) rotating down from back side tightens. so up to loosen. jump to 2:55 at the video. believe it is the same for a 94
I think you can do a lot better with the right tools. better to use a hammer instead of pliers. but I learn a lot from your video must important right and left. thank you.
You guys working under vehicles with only hydraulic floor jacks as support have DEATH WISH. ALWAYS Block w stands or Heavy wood blocks, NEVER trust hydraulic jacks ... Peace.
Brakes are too important for a beginner to change without some body checking his work. The lives of everybody you are near depend on them being 100% right, not sort of right. Pay some body, watch them and ask questions, get some grown up pliers. Needle nose don't do it all.
gotta start some where and by the way it is my truck so I wasn't learning on a customers car. Whole brake assembly was changed. Booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, and new lines. no issues
I just went through this on my 86 F-250. I fought trying to work around the Hub.
Finally I removed the Axle, Lock net assy., and pulled the Hub off. catch the outer bearing so it doesn`t fall in the ground.
Then replacing the Brake Shoes, Springs etc... goes together in less than 30 MIN.
Replace the Hub inner Seal. Just dip the Bearings in diff. oil. No need to pack in grease.
Push Hub on, install outer bearing and tighten lock Nut as per spects. And install Axle.
If tou have the ratchet nut, will need Socket W83008, Oil Seal PSO 370047A from O`Reilly
FYI - My 1994 F250 rear passenger brake line was a 3/16 and 1/4 at the wheel. I got a 1/4,1/4 and found the need for 3/16, well S***T.
Dorman 785-434d 1/4 x 3/16 brake line adapter from O'Reilly's and $7 saved me.
I had the same problem with my 91 f250. The same spring was all smashed and the brake cylinder was leaking fluid. I'm glad I found this video. Thanks!
Thx for taking the time to show us your experience with drum brakes, I have mine to do and am not looking forward to it, your video helped.
Glad it helped
Thanks for doing this! I've watched a lot of DIY videos but yours was the best. Why? Well its just about the way I would tackle a problem I didnt exactly know how to do. Your OOp's were spot on and really taught the thinking ahead part of the job. I'm sure you will save many a new DIYer out there a lot of time and aggravation. Loved it!
Glad you enjoyed my aggravation lol. just kidding glad it helps
Thank you, my first time doing rear breaks on my obs , feel a lot better about it now
Thank you sir for taking the time to make the videos. I have the same vehicle. When I took it apart, there were springs at the bottom of the drum that had fallen off. Nice to be able to use your video as a reference. Thanx again
Thanks for posting. This video did my rear brake shoes well one side struggled with the 2. Small springs getting them back on. Seem they should have. A custom long tool
Here it is >>>> www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f7
@@FixthisCD says video unavalible
hey, not sure if i thanked you yet. anyway, i am so grateful to you for making this video. i can't believe you took the time to shoot and post this to help us. i have never done Drum brakes before and the other flashy videos that i watched had totally different drum spring configurations--so when i pulled off the tires and looked at my rear brakes i had no idea how to deal with the springs. one of them had broken and jammed behind one of the pads. anyway, your video literally saved me about 2k. drum brakes are wacky but they really do work great, and i love how they feel on the roadway. but those springies are nuts. heh. you are a cool dude for posting this. thank you so much.
oh! i will just add that i use the CLEAR lens 3m eye protectors and a 3m cartridge respirator while dealing with these brakes. i don't like having to use these protective agents but the springs can fly out and hit people in the face, and the old brake dust is almost invisible and REALLY nasty. i also wear long sleeves. the brake dust gets into the lungs and sticks to the skin. it just gets everywhere! really nasty stuff and often these pads are made of asbestos. cheers mates!
Thank you very much for the kind words. Nice to hear instead of the criticism, makes me want to do this full time ;) For whatever reason I only recorded this brake job but I replaced the whole brake system on the truck. Cheers
@@northbeachfilms Respirators and recording don't work well together. Next time I should record and just do a voice over so I could protect myself properly
You're human and show character by admitting mistakes. Getting ready to do same job on my 97 HD. Watched a video that said you MUST pull axle to do the job. Was hoping not to have to( although it does look like it would be easier). And for all those who want to belittle him for not being an internet pro, please leave a link to your video so we can all critique you !! Thanks for video.
Thanks for the love and understanding. Can't start off being a pro ;)
@@FixthisCD a pro is just someone who can hide their mistakes !
Hello, Ive done these brakes on my 91 F250 twice now. 3" shoes, 12" drums. So, its best to pull the driveshaft 5/8" head bolts and then remove the hub and bearings. The hub is removed with the special tool, has 4 notches and a dowl like center. The tricky part is getting the hub seal off without damaging it. It bonds to the axle and the drum. It turns inside itself. Thats how it works. Axle oil lubricates the bearings, that seal keeps oil inside. After its removed the shoe plate can be accessed easily. Working around that hub makes the job difficult. GW
The spring you didn't have comes in the brake adjuster kit along with the small cable. ... good video drums are a pain thanks for posting
Your going to have to take that other side back apart. because there's a primary and a secondary shoe on each side.the shoe with the shorter lining on it goes to the front of the vehicle.
Oh yeah I did, I put the tire back on and fixed the other side. Lesson I will never forget. btw brakes are still working great
8:09 makes me feel good that particular retainer is a cold blooded mama
I really appreciated this video because it pretty much showed what happens to me everytime I start working on mine.
Me too lol
It’s kinda difficult to do the work and film at the same time. Thanks for the video
Thank you
After doing the 1997 e250 rear shoes and some hardware replaced I remember which type of breaks I dislike(s) the most when I did it professionally.these are the ones...so simple yet so Mickey Moused also.
Trust me u ain’t the only one who’s done that Lol I’ve done that plenty of times u just think wrong some times it happens but I needed to see this video tho bought a 350 and gotta do brakes
I guess by now he's learned about primary and secondary brake shoes. They are not the same, one has more asbestos than the other... pads are two lengths.
What I get for assuming on the packaging and not paying attention on what was removed ;)
Real big DANGUT! Moment for sure
oh yes, haha. Had to fix drivers side before I could complete this side oopsy
@@FixthisCD sht happens, thanks for the video.
Always like to watch someone struggle and foresee all the problems that may arise before i jump in myself hahaha
Your long shoe Pad goes on the back, short shoe Pad go on the front. Primary -secondary
information I wish I knew before lol
This is about the same as on my 96’ Ford f-350 XLT
i am trying to get the drums off of a 94. what way does the star wheel turn to unloosen please?; no video seems to explain this; thanks.
I don't remember but from this video (th-cam.com/video/5X49tnJO2jI/w-d-xo.html) rotating down from back side tightens. so up to loosen. jump to 2:55 at the video. believe it is the same for a 94
@@FixthisCD thank you; i got the drum off!
Hell ya nice video 🤘
Thank you
Thank you. I guess I'll pay the big bucks and take mine to a Ford Dealership Repair.
Mine still works fine, but yes it is not an area of repair you want to get wrong
Gracias, fue de mucha ayuda
De nada estoy contento
i did the same thing the first time
I think you can do a lot better with the right tools. better to use a hammer instead of pliers. but I learn a lot from your video must important right and left. thank you.
Sometimes you learn from a pro other times you learn from an average Joe ;) thank you, yes the correct tools are needed
Don't tell me you've left wrong brake shoe on other side :P
I reluctantly took back apart. Will never forget that mistake
You.got.the.two.longs.one's.on.the.other.side.the.long.one.go's.in.the.back.the.short.ones.in.the.front
You guys working under vehicles with only hydraulic floor jacks as support have DEATH WISH. ALWAYS Block w stands or Heavy wood blocks, NEVER trust hydraulic jacks ... Peace.
@4:45 there 2 big blocks of wood under the front side of rear leaf spring, not perfect but not relying on little jack
You did not have to buy a new set
I didnt, I ended up putting passenger tire back on and got my needed part from the driver's side after doing it correct the second time
Shit thats nothing the drum split from the hub on mine
You.got.long.one.and.short.one.on.each.side.or.it.will.mess.up.if.you.don't.have.like.that
You need tools man 😂😂
Brakes are too important for a beginner to change without some body checking his work. The lives of everybody you are near depend on them being 100% right, not sort of right. Pay some body, watch them and ask questions, get some grown up pliers. Needle nose don't do it all.
gotta start some where and by the way it is my truck so I wasn't learning on a customers car. Whole brake assembly was changed. Booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, and new lines. no issues
you need some tools....you drive me nuts.....i'm thinking may be you should not do brakes....
Haha. I will stick to electrical ;)
Too much talking !! Jesus
Ohhhh My Goddddd.... so much useless talk and commentary.... my head hurts.
Maybe God will heal your head
Are you talking about your comment
5 minutes to remove that cord? don't apologize, just cut it out in editing process or stop recording and continue later, don't be so amateur...