Also, this is super helpful. Couldn't figure out how to get the drum off to replace my wheel studs. Thanks for the detail, and not skipping over the hard parts! 🙌
Just here to add another huge thank you for this video! My driver side wheel cylinder failed last week and today was the day to get it done. I've never done this myself before, so as soon as I got the axle out I knew I needed a video to help, and here you were to save the day! Clear explanations, didn't skip the tough parts but you also didn't waste time talking about this or that like many other videos. Just straight to it. Thank you again!
Great video! This is pretty much a 97 F350 10.25 Sterling Rear Axle. I did this once before when I was younger w no special tools. I’m having a hell of a time now. I’m getting my ass beat! I’m still not done!!!
Iam work in my 86 F-250 right now. Noticed a few oil specks on the rubber splash shield in front and rear of tire. Pulled off R/R Drum, and Wheel Cylinder was just starting to dribble w/o making a mess. First thing I did was blow out all the brake dust and Brake fluid. headed down to O`Really`s for Shoes, Cylinders and Hard Ware kit. R&R`d the Wheel Cylinder, started the Brake line a few turns then could not get the 2 Bolts to even start. Finally remove the line, and the Bolts went right in, fought the dang thing 20 min. The 2 pins that go in the Cylinder were pretty rusty crusty, wire wheeled them down to shiny metal and put on some Anti-Seiz. Removed the 7/16" nut on the back of the Plate and removed the Parking Brake Arm/Assy., took it apart and wire wheeled it clean and Anti-Seized the parts. Used my 20 ton press to push out the splined bolt. Remember the orentation of how the part`s go back together. Iam at the part where getting Shoes back on is kickin my Butt. Iam 80 and have done a few Drum set up over the years, But this %@&&@! has me beat. Looks like taking off the Hub will make it easier. Trying to work around the Hub Flange is a PITA. The more I think about it, swapping over to Disk Brakes will make it so much easier . I like your trick of the Tape to hold the Shoe`s on. Masking Tape is easier to get on, then maybe some Gorilla Tape. It`s it harder to pull it off the roll but will hold better. I must have watched 6 - 8 YT Vid so far. You are very detailed, and much younger than I am, and those Springs are kickin your Butt.
Dude this was exactly what I was looking for. Excellent camera work, explanations and descriptions. Really appreciate you filming straight through and making a long-form video, no cuts, no skipping steps. Subscribing for sure, thanks man.
I usually measure the ID of the drum and adjust the shoes out to close to the ID of the drum before I even put the drum on. Saves a lot of adjusting the adjuster!!
Thanks for the video; I picked up a couple new useful tips. Here's one for you on the red springs - use a small/medium screwdriver and put the tip of the screwdriver behind the coiled part then push the hooking part with the screwdriver shaft toward the backing plate. You can then just grab the hook that goes through the backing plate with your finger and move it into place and release the tension on the screwdriver. I actually did this on the front shoe before anything else, then same on the back shoe (lever removed) - no need for the tape to hold the shoes on. Then put on the springs that pull the shoes together.
Thankyou for putting what the rear end is in your title some people are to stupid to do that Btw if you don’t hook up the brake like to the wheel cylinder it’s much easier to get the pads on
When you jack the axle up keep one wheel on and raise the stand on the other side so that the axle is tilted away from the side you’re working in - then the old stops leaking out 👍
It's a lot easier to do all of that on the bench. Disconnect the parking brake, and get it out of the backing plate and put aside, then disconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Then you just take the four nuts holding the backing plate on and give it a few knocks with a hammer from behind. The entire brake assembly comes off in one big chunk. Easier to do everything on the bench.
Not that it matters that axle is a Dana 61 not a Dana 60. These 1984 F-350's as well as F-250's could only have a Dana 61 or a Dana 70u. Brakes are the same between the Dana 60,61,70u
Also, this is super helpful. Couldn't figure out how to get the drum off to replace my wheel studs. Thanks for the detail, and not skipping over the hard parts! 🙌
Just here to add another huge thank you for this video! My driver side wheel cylinder failed last week and today was the day to get it done. I've never done this myself before, so as soon as I got the axle out I knew I needed a video to help, and here you were to save the day! Clear explanations, didn't skip the tough parts but you also didn't waste time talking about this or that like many other videos. Just straight to it. Thank you again!
Great video! This is pretty much a 97 F350 10.25 Sterling Rear Axle. I did this once before when I was younger w no special tools. I’m having a hell of a time now. I’m getting my ass beat! I’m still not done!!!
Iam work in my 86 F-250 right now. Noticed a few oil specks on the rubber splash shield in front and rear of tire. Pulled off R/R Drum, and Wheel Cylinder was just starting to dribble w/o making a mess.
First thing I did was blow out all the brake dust and Brake fluid. headed down to O`Really`s for Shoes, Cylinders and Hard Ware kit.
R&R`d the Wheel Cylinder, started the Brake line a few turns then could not get the 2 Bolts to even start. Finally remove the line, and the Bolts went right in, fought the dang thing 20 min.
The 2 pins that go in the Cylinder were pretty rusty crusty, wire wheeled them down to shiny metal and put on some Anti-Seiz.
Removed the 7/16" nut on the back of the Plate and removed the Parking Brake Arm/Assy., took it apart and wire wheeled it clean and Anti-Seized the parts. Used my 20 ton press to push out the splined bolt. Remember the orentation of how the part`s go back together.
Iam at the part where getting Shoes back on is kickin my Butt. Iam 80 and have done a few Drum set up over the years, But this %@&&@! has me beat. Looks like taking off the Hub will make it easier. Trying to work around the Hub Flange is a PITA.
The more I think about it, swapping over to Disk Brakes will make it so much easier .
I like your trick of the Tape to hold the Shoe`s on. Masking Tape is easier to get on, then maybe some Gorilla Tape. It`s it harder to pull it off the roll but will hold better.
I must have watched 6 - 8 YT Vid so far. You are very detailed, and much younger than I am, and those Springs are kickin your Butt.
@@charlieLund-v4r i tip my hat to you for doing this job at 80. Very impressive!
Dude this was exactly what I was looking for. Excellent camera work, explanations and descriptions. Really appreciate you filming straight through and making a long-form video, no cuts, no skipping steps. Subscribing for sure, thanks man.
I usually measure the ID of the drum and adjust the shoes out to close to the ID of the drum before I even put the drum on. Saves a lot of adjusting the adjuster!!
Thanks for the video; I picked up a couple new useful tips. Here's one for you on the red springs - use a small/medium screwdriver and put the tip of the screwdriver behind the coiled part then push the hooking part with the screwdriver shaft toward the backing plate. You can then just grab the hook that goes through the backing plate with your finger and move it into place and release the tension on the screwdriver. I actually did this on the front shoe before anything else, then same on the back shoe (lever removed) - no need for the tape to hold the shoes on. Then put on the springs that pull the shoes together.
Thankyou for putting what the rear end is in your title some people are to stupid to do that
Btw if you don’t hook up the brake like to the wheel cylinder it’s much easier to get the pads on
I love the tape on shoes trick
Thank you for the video! I do personally, greatly appreciate it! 👍
When you jack the axle up keep one wheel on and raise the stand on the other side so that the axle is tilted away from the side you’re working in - then the old stops leaking out 👍
Dagggggguum that's so clean and shiny!
Very help much appreciate.
The tape is a great idea!
The only tip I can recommend is Rapala Musky Fishing Snap Ring Pliers
Struggling to do this in my mid 40’s. I did this mid 30’s no video
It's a lot easier to do all of that on the bench. Disconnect the parking brake, and get it out of the backing plate and put aside, then disconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Then you just take the four nuts holding the backing plate on and give it a few knocks with a hammer from behind. The entire brake assembly comes off in one big chunk. Easier to do everything on the bench.
BEST !!
my man!
Funny everyone struggles with the anchor springs ! Tough deal not removing the break lever to get that back side anchor spring on..
The fin i get to thave when i do my brakes on my 83 ford f250
14:38 Rubber cover missing....
The video is quite explanatory...
Ive done the hammer chisel method. Until i bought a socket for 20 bucks.
Probably for the best, share the link for the socket if you have it!
Not that it matters that axle is a Dana 61 not a Dana 60. These 1984 F-350's as well as F-250's could only have a Dana 61 or a Dana 70u. Brakes are the same between the Dana 60,61,70u
I appreciate the info.