Great video! This is pretty much a 97 F350 10.25 Sterling Rear Axle. I did this once before when I was younger w no special tools. I’m having a hell of a time now. I’m getting my ass beat! I’m still not done!!!
Just here to add another huge thank you for this video! My driver side wheel cylinder failed last week and today was the day to get it done. I've never done this myself before, so as soon as I got the axle out I knew I needed a video to help, and here you were to save the day! Clear explanations, didn't skip the tough parts but you also didn't waste time talking about this or that like many other videos. Just straight to it. Thank you again!
Also, this is super helpful. Couldn't figure out how to get the drum off to replace my wheel studs. Thanks for the detail, and not skipping over the hard parts! 🙌
Dude this was exactly what I was looking for. Excellent camera work, explanations and descriptions. Really appreciate you filming straight through and making a long-form video, no cuts, no skipping steps. Subscribing for sure, thanks man.
I usually measure the ID of the drum and adjust the shoes out to close to the ID of the drum before I even put the drum on. Saves a lot of adjusting the adjuster!!
Thanks for the video; I picked up a couple new useful tips. Here's one for you on the red springs - use a small/medium screwdriver and put the tip of the screwdriver behind the coiled part then push the hooking part with the screwdriver shaft toward the backing plate. You can then just grab the hook that goes through the backing plate with your finger and move it into place and release the tension on the screwdriver. I actually did this on the front shoe before anything else, then same on the back shoe (lever removed) - no need for the tape to hold the shoes on. Then put on the springs that pull the shoes together.
When you jack the axle up keep one wheel on and raise the stand on the other side so that the axle is tilted away from the side you’re working in - then the old stops leaking out 👍
It's a lot easier to do all of that on the bench. Disconnect the parking brake, and get it out of the backing plate and put aside, then disconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Then you just take the four nuts holding the backing plate on and give it a few knocks with a hammer from behind. The entire brake assembly comes off in one big chunk. Easier to do everything on the bench.
Not that it matters that axle is a Dana 61 not a Dana 60. These 1984 F-350's as well as F-250's could only have a Dana 61 or a Dana 70u. Brakes are the same between the Dana 60,61,70u
Great video! This is pretty much a 97 F350 10.25 Sterling Rear Axle. I did this once before when I was younger w no special tools. I’m having a hell of a time now. I’m getting my ass beat! I’m still not done!!!
Just here to add another huge thank you for this video! My driver side wheel cylinder failed last week and today was the day to get it done. I've never done this myself before, so as soon as I got the axle out I knew I needed a video to help, and here you were to save the day! Clear explanations, didn't skip the tough parts but you also didn't waste time talking about this or that like many other videos. Just straight to it. Thank you again!
Also, this is super helpful. Couldn't figure out how to get the drum off to replace my wheel studs. Thanks for the detail, and not skipping over the hard parts! 🙌
Dude this was exactly what I was looking for. Excellent camera work, explanations and descriptions. Really appreciate you filming straight through and making a long-form video, no cuts, no skipping steps. Subscribing for sure, thanks man.
I usually measure the ID of the drum and adjust the shoes out to close to the ID of the drum before I even put the drum on. Saves a lot of adjusting the adjuster!!
Thanks for the video; I picked up a couple new useful tips. Here's one for you on the red springs - use a small/medium screwdriver and put the tip of the screwdriver behind the coiled part then push the hooking part with the screwdriver shaft toward the backing plate. You can then just grab the hook that goes through the backing plate with your finger and move it into place and release the tension on the screwdriver. I actually did this on the front shoe before anything else, then same on the back shoe (lever removed) - no need for the tape to hold the shoes on. Then put on the springs that pull the shoes together.
When you jack the axle up keep one wheel on and raise the stand on the other side so that the axle is tilted away from the side you’re working in - then the old stops leaking out 👍
Thank you for the video! I do personally, greatly appreciate it! 👍
It's a lot easier to do all of that on the bench. Disconnect the parking brake, and get it out of the backing plate and put aside, then disconnect the brake line to the wheel cylinder. Then you just take the four nuts holding the backing plate on and give it a few knocks with a hammer from behind. The entire brake assembly comes off in one big chunk. Easier to do everything on the bench.
Very help much appreciate.
I love the tape on shoes trick
The only tip I can recommend is Rapala Musky Fishing Snap Ring Pliers
Struggling to do this in my mid 40’s. I did this mid 30’s no video
Dagggggguum that's so clean and shiny!
BEST !!
Funny everyone struggles with the anchor springs ! Tough deal not removing the break lever to get that back side anchor spring on..
The tape is a great idea!
my man!
Ive done the hammer chisel method. Until i bought a socket for 20 bucks.
Probably for the best, share the link for the socket if you have it!
The fin i get to thave when i do my brakes on my 83 ford f250
Not that it matters that axle is a Dana 61 not a Dana 60. These 1984 F-350's as well as F-250's could only have a Dana 61 or a Dana 70u. Brakes are the same between the Dana 60,61,70u
I appreciate the info.
14:38 Rubber cover missing....
The video is quite explanatory...