Ball joint change in a 1987 - 1996 Ford F150 or Bronco 4x4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Changing out the ball joints in old crusty. Some rust belt tips are given in the video. It's possible that this is similar to 1987 to 1996 f150 pickups and Broncos with the ball joints integral to the knuckle. Dana 44 IFS There are two sister videos to this, one on a f150 front axle u-joint replacement and another on camber bushing replacement.
Nice to the point content. Nothing I dislike more than hearing about people's personal lives and weekend plans when I'm sweating my ass off in the sun figuring out how to fix something.
lol, right!
I've never been able to form my feelings into such accurate words the way you do. What therapist are you seeing?
Great video
Much obliged. I just got done overhauling the Dana 44 on a 79 Bronco. Cutting the ball joints nuts is a great idea. Thanks for sharing the tricks. Same job coming up on my 94 F150. This video makes that job WAY easier.
Good video. Just a small point to share. The sleeve/bushing you freed up to make it easier for the alignment guy actually serves another purpose as well and it is critical that you free it up. The bushing is split and it's what sets the correct distance between the two ball joints so that they don't bind together or try to pull away from each other when you tighten the nuts. When you tighten the lower nut it puts the upper stud in the correct position. When you now tighten the upper nut it spreads the split bushing, locking it to the knuckle and the stud to the bushing. Other setups (mid 70's scouts for example) had a threaded adjustment. Failure to free up that bushing can make your knuckle bind up and truck steer horribly as well as accelerate the wear in the joints.
I have just now finished watching 2 of your videos after about 2 dozen for the day, and YOU have the sense to use the right tools for the job to get it done without screwing around, I have seen some pretty hack-job stuff today, and your videos are refreshing to see someone using the right tools with the knowhow to use them right, I'm a mechanic for a living and have gotten myself into a custom job that requires me to learn something new.
Gotta get out of the comfort zone to learn something new. Good luck with the project.
I liked it 4 years later lol
I wish this was available 20yrs ago when I did my '89 Bronco. I learnd some new tips that will be used when I do my '95 this summer. Thanks man!
Thanks man :) My lower ball joints got fucked up in an accident and caused crazy negative camber on my front wheels. Just picked them up from the parts store and am gonna install them next weekend. Thanks for the vid!
Dominic Barile how did your fix go? I gotta do the same thing soon.
Chad Thibodeaux went good. took me exactly 24 hours of total work time because Im only 17 and kind of learning as I go. Want to be a mechanic when im older so i do all of my own work on my bronco. I also didnt have an impact so I had to press the balljoints by hand. Was pretty straight forward job. exactly like the video. Hardest part for me was trying to tighten the balljoints without them spinning inside themselves. Made a hell of a difference my truck rides and steers so much smoother now. my old balljoints had no grease (ungreasable) and were just full of rust and you could hold the base and flop the joint around lol. Not a difficult job just time consuming! Plus I had already had experience taking my hubs apart about 5 times prior to doing this job. the hubs can be intimidating but you just have to look at how it comes apart and make sure you put it back the same way it came apart :) if you have any other questions feel free to shoot me an email dominicbarile@gmail.com
Great video. Strait and to the point at every part. I like to put the nut back on the tie-rod to protect the threads when I beat it loose as if I miss w/ the hammer, I don't booger the threads
Great video. Since I don't have a acetylene torch to cut the ball joint nuts, I used a Dremel with cut-off discs and a MAPP torch. Cut a relief into the nut, sit on it with the MAPP for a good 5 minutes, and then proceed with the breaker bar. Popped right off. The $50 HF electric impact works great if you can't afford a name brand.
Great job on this video, it is impressive you were able to get it apart! you showed all the difficult-challenging aspects. Thank you for sharing..
“Not the right socket, .. but it’s gonna work”. I love it. Good job. Thanks for such a good vid
Great video. Walked through the whole process on my 88. Thanks
Thanks for Watching.
You sure make this look easy brother,, all about having the right tools,,and doing the job correctly. I will hold off on mine for now.
The upper ball joint nut is really large, its like a 33mm or 1-5/16". The lower ball joint nut is 1-1/8". Just FYI for any about to do this, make sure you have those sizes before you start if its your only vehicle like me!
Sorry, I commented before finishing the video, you gave the socket sizes in your video
Thanks for reminding me what it's like doing the ball joints. My '96 F 150 with 4" lift and 32's needs new ball joints every four years or so and is overdue right now! It seems like it's always the lower right which goes first, even when it was on warranty.
I would try buying the premium ball joints. They are meant for lifted trucks with bigger tires
Dominic Barile I always use Moog products. I checked them again last week and they seemed OK so I must have been seeing things earlier. I found a full set of ball joints on eBay for less than $30. I don't think I'd put those in even if I was selling it to my worst enemy!
mumbles552 Yeah lol. I drove through a fence and F***ed up my lower ball joints to the point where my front wheels are cambered in :( didnt have $200 to spend on ball joints so I went with the Quick Steer ones which were only about $70 in total. I would have rather gotten Moog but dont have the money. Ill be installing the new ones next weekend... Hopefully they last :/
mumbles552 luckily my ball joints were the only thing that got messed up. My 91 bronco is pretty tough I guess lol
Excellent video!!! Best I've seen yet for the F150's in that year range...
i really appriciate the videos, you make most of the repair manual make sense to me just being a starting, half ass at best mechanic. Most apply directly to my 87 ranger 4x4 as they are built the same. thanks again
Thanks for the video, now I actually have a clue on whats involved with my own!
Outstanding video!! Wish I had the lift very jealous!
It's a tough job and you make it look so easy! Awesome
Note to self do the top one first lol 😂 and how these guys are so calm and not throwing stuff yeah..... beyond me great video very helpful 👍
This video is perfect for my truck cant wait to tackle this job soon I got some brand new air tools hope they help and should have everything else I need
Lol...you made that look easy man. I have a set to do in my 86' hope it goes that smooth.
Well I'm pretty sick of suspension work on my truck so I think I may splurge and pay someone to do this. Good vid.
very nice work, I've been learning a lot with this guy.
thanks. i really appreciate videos like this. seeing the job done is really helpful. thanks for taking the time to put these videos up and answering questions. you're saving a lot of people a lot of headaches. thanks again, ward
Excellent video! Thanks for taking the time to record this
This guy goes above and beyond when it comes to safety equipment. Almost like OSHA is standing over his shoulder. Haha I don’t know one real mechanic that dose all that.
I needed to remember which order to remove and replace the ball joints. Bottom out first and bottom in last.
one of them is a little loose on my Bronco (not bad yet) and I was curious how much work it is. Looks like about what I imagined. Thanks for the video
Gracias amigo, fue un exito para mi con tus enseñansas sobre este Ford.
Thanks for the video, it helped a lot preparing to do it myself
Thanks for the video! I was having trouble with mine but I got it now
How do these professional mechanics stay so calm when working on cars? I didn't hear a single cuss word or note any anger at all.
Haha, right?? Amazing
They were edited out. That entire process probably took a couple of hours. I'm sure there was a lot of cursing because those ball joints are almost always a pain in the ass
This is the edited version
He says you're doing a wonderful job and keep up the good work and thanks for the video
Thanks. Great video, clear and even included the three step torquing.
Nice deal on that pin punch dealing with the cotter pin! I gotta get one of those!
This was a great video. Learned a lot.
well executed, i have to do them on my work truck, very very helpful... thanx
good job man, this helped me alot!
Damn that was an excellent video!
Great video, it has been a while since I have done a ball joint on my dana 50 ttb, and I couldnt remember if a standard ball joint press would work or not. Question answered, as well as some great tips thanks.
THANKS MAN * GOOD VIDEO
HELPFUL SHARING 👌✌️💪
thanks for U/L didnt know there was so much involved
Nice video and nice job. Thnxs
awesome. this is similar to the ranger except i cant find a 4x4 ranger ball joint replacement video. This will do, thanks.
Usually best to buy adjustable camber bushings as well to correct any alignment changes. Have to install them anyway while the camber bushing is out.
Definitely
This is the best ball joint video on the internet.
What was the problem that made you change it out?
i like the sway bar on it for some reason mine does not have one but it does have the spots to mount it bolt it on
Very nice video-very helpful-thanks for posting it!
Good job thanks, getting mine done today!
i really like your video i have an 1988 ford bronco same stuff....
Very helpful! Thanks!
Ah yes, the dreaded ball joint time has come for my truck also. 😖
Now I know why I was quoted so much!!
Same they want $700 for mine
thanks bro and very good info good video and very on point
Just the video I was looking for! Very detailed! I learned faster this way than reading the damn manual and looking at the schematics LMAO
My 96 F-150 had a 1/8" play when I was doing my maintenance and my hands was at 12 and 6 oclock position, no play at 9 and 3... the castle nut and the cutter pin was intact, no signs of backing out or anything, but I tried tightening the castle nut about half a turn (I just saw your video and I will torque it to specs later today) and it got rid of the play. Now, do I still need to replace the ball joints or that was the the fix?
I don't drive the truck often so it may take some time for me to find out... it's dry here in Vegas so corrosion is not an issue...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!!
If your nut was tight and there was/is play in the ball joint, the ball joint is wore out.
Oldsmob455 thank you sir...👍🏼
Nice,does that electric impact gun got the power to press the ball joint out,and how do i set a torch to cut,heat and weld ? cool vid thanks.
Good video Needed a little help on 96 Bronco
good job !!!
Thank you for posting!
My husband says he's never had to change ball joints on all the 4 wheel drives he's ever own through his life time up to now he's getting ready to convert his 1989 ford f150 truck to 4 wheel drive he said while everything out he's gonna replace the ball joints and everything on it he says he's looking forward to it but not looking forward to replacing the ball joints cause where the 4 wheel drive been sitting along time in the junkyard
how big of a ball joint press is needed. thank you great video!
Fuckin' top notch video, man :) Thanks a ton!
very nicely done mister. what was the final torque on the lower ball joint? 90?
But did you grease the balls and properly lube the full length of the shaft?
great vid
I know you used the torch to cut the castle nut off the upper ball joint, but can you recall the socket size?
How do did you pull that passenger side drive axle out without dropping that Dana 44 and removing the c-clip from the diff?
I watched the accompanying video to this one about the u - joint and axle but that was only for the driver's side.
***** That makes sense.
do you not have to put the snap ring on the top ball joint?
great vid thanks man. is the dana 44 a solid front axle? or is it like a split independent one cause thats how my f150 is
the dana 44 is a twin traction beam setup.
thanks
What does that camber piece do I have a 87 ranger it has that but it's not settin down flush like that one and the wheel leans really bad if its not flush will it cause it to lean? I like the vid btw
Let me share my experience: The Spicer brand ball joints are often recommended, but do not come with grease-zerks or dust-seals. That's crazy. Spicer tried to tell me to install the ball-joints without dust-seals. No way. Instead, buy the MOOG brand ball-joints. They DO have grease-zerks and dust-seals. The $12 one-year Chinese-made ball joints look like junk, so don't use them either.
Thank you!
Thanks for posting this video. I have a question hopefully you can help me. If you are changing the cam/caster sleeve do you need to remove alignment pin sleeve under it?
Time 7:05
Not sure what you mean or maybe they were missing on my truck? My alignment bushings came out with simply taking the nut off the ball joint.
Did u skip over cutting the bottom nut off?
i cant find a video anywhere of how that alignment bushing works or how to adjust it
gracias en realidad aprecio tu (video thanks. i really appreciate videos like this ) y espero hagas uno de las fallas de las luces (and i hope you cant do some video the fail light ) y disculpa por mi ingles jaja ( and sorry to my english jaja)
Do you need to take out all of the brakes, rotor, u joints, etc to replace the upper and lower ball joints..?
Depending on what vehicle, on my 1997 F250HD which is a Late 96, i had to take brakes, CV axle, hub, spindle and a bunch more off to be able to do them.
Holy crap dude the rust on this truck is ridiculous, not even worth it honestly. I would probably just sell the thing for parts at this point, seems really dangerous to drive down the road.
How much would you charge to do this on a 1994 bronco xlt and what city are you located in?
The bottom bolt of my knuckle just free spins when I try to un do it. The nut spins with the stud . Is there a reason for that?
Sounds like stud hole in knuckle has worn. You might have to cut the bolt and stud off with torch.
Also if 4×4 try tightening upper ball joint bolt ,that might work by pressing lower stud further into knuckle hole .
i am going to be doing ball joints on my 93 f150 but dont have an impact what is the best way to get the ball joints in and out without an impact?
good shit me buddy
why didnt you sand the rust before adding the new parts
Can that camber adjustment be moved to correct positive camber?
thank you!!!
One of my ball joints are bad and it's going into the shop tomorrow, how long and how much money would it cost me, I hope it's not more than I have
Get your check book out!
It shouldn't be much, it's just one though. And them my crossmember bar needs to be welded and reinforced
what size socket did you use to get the tie rod nut off?
good video but my spindles didn't come out that easily
You don't have to tear it down so far to do the upper ball joint
My slip jont won't come apart how do I fix that
what was the torque on the nuts
How do I get the axle out from the passenger side if it won't pull out like driver
The passenger axle is a two piece axle with a slip joint. If you want to get the inner part out you need to take the pumpkin out.
+Oldsmob455 so how do I take it apart so I don't have to remove the pumpkin?
If you want to take the passenger inner out the pumpkin has to come out to remove the E clip. Watch "Spartan Locker Install Dana 44 IFS TTB Front Axle Ford F150" and you will see. This is of coarse assuming no one has made it a full floating axle yet.
+Oldsmob455 I just separated it at the slip so I didn't have t worry about the other axle but thanks
What were your symptoms
WOW'' that's a lot of corrosion' keep it kleen'' Yes- I have a shop and wouldn't let that in '' at least with out a cleaning deposit'' LOL
would it be better to just buy a "new" knuckle? with ball joints and all? do they even sell something like that? like a re-man for a reasonable price? I wouldn't mind spending a little extra to be able to just bolt it in and forget about it.
where are you from kinda sounds like a wisconsin accent
Thanks very information though we all have a cutting torch in our garage so you know we had to pop right upon that god I got one right there yeah right why don't you show people how to do it not how you do it and the quick way you do it because 90% of people don't got a cutting torch
Pickle ferk
That looks pretty easy so my question is...why do mechanics charge a fortune to do this? Are the parts really expensive?
TomJāck Gentry It takes a lot of time to do the job. This video started with the front end taken apart already.
cause this is a HUGE pain in the ass......beat up your hands, it takes a certain Touch and skill to deal with rusty Shit.....things don't always work out perfect.