Hi James, great video. Im a carpenter with 42 years experience and i still get a buzz out of whatching other carpenters apply their trade. A little fact for you, the 6 down 9 up came about in the 1800's. It was designed to miss the mortice and tennon joints where the rails and stiles met and that became the standard we still use today. All the best. Phill 👍👍👍👍
I've always been told the 6 and 9 thing is for perspective as Pete says in the video. It's always interesting to hear what other joiners think when you see them on site. It'd also be interesting to see how you go about hanging a door into a not so perfect casing. I've always used a knife mark around the hinge, glazing hammer and chisel and router, makes quick work of the job :)
I’ve been a joiner for 23 years and I was told the same thing about 6 and 9 on the hinges… makes sense to me. With the hinge knuckles, to get people to remember which way round they go, I tell them to remember it’s “ most to the post “… the frame is doing the lifting so it needs more
Fitting doors is one of my favourite jobs. I got into woodworking when I was young. Fitted lots of doors and every door is different. Fitting into old linings is the most hardest job. I fitted 8 fire doors for someone last year. And I ad all the gear set up. Got hinge router jig and the souber drilling jig. etc to make life easier. I'm in Leamington Spa as well by the way.
You're mad. I had to fit 13x pre finished oak veneered fire doors in an old Georgian3x story house last year. All the frames were wacky. It's was a nightmare. By the last two I was so fed up I insisted to the customer I replace the linings, out of my own pocket. They weren't too happy but I was past caring. I even had to replace a door because a chunk of the veneer came off when I was shooting the top in. Lesson well and truly learned. If you want prefinished oak doors, it's new linings or get somebody else.
Using a hinge jig and router is the quickest and neatest way to hang a door hands down. However, I love do things old school as it keeps your hand in, you should also mark the width of the hinge with a marking gauge, it gives you a nice groove to sit your chisel in. I've always been taught to chop the hinges in the frame first, then offer the door in and transfer marks across, reason being if you have to shoot a bit off the back edge of the door you'll have to re cut the hinges out again. Not a bad tutorial though, everyone works differently 👍
A nice clean job; people underestimate the value of using the marking gauge. I mark it with a Stanley knife; I find it gives a cleaner edge. No mention of the need to apply a leading edge to the door though, which is rather surprising,
Lol their speaks a person from experience. And also make sure its a veneered door with the usual wafer thin lipping's with the room filled up with furniture switch cable buried behind the linings along with people walking through every 5 minutes , oh and has to use the soft screws that come with the hinges.
Great video. Personally i use a stanley knife to mark hinges. One time a young had to hang one door . Had to get hinge jig and router from his boss. Nice traditional vid👍👍
The 6 and 9 inch spacing is actually like that so when ypu cut hinges Into traditional style doors, your not cutting hinges into the end grain of the tennons. Rather than being equidistant.
I agree with this, as the bottom rail was is, traditionally, wider than the top rail. There is also a misconception that the middle rail was a, 'lock rail', but in fact the middle rail is positioned lower than the centre of the door so when the lock is fitted in the centre, it is not removing any of the centre rail tenon.
I got told the 9 inch bottom was because you can swing a chisel and a mallet upwards in the space at the bottom on the door linings. If my woodwork teacher was bullshitting me, he is in for a strong letter. lol
The spacing of hinges is different around the UK depending on what doors the factory came from when they were old schools and had proper mortice and tenons and it was to avoid chiseling into it.
Nice job , I have to say I am 60 yrs now and there are some desperate men hanging doors out there, I know you can use a router but good to see someone can still operate by hand 👍
if your hanging doors like this with hammer and chisel make a Rod to mark where hinges go on door and lining. saves a lot of time no need for temporary door stops or offering door up. if its new lining obviously.
Thanks a lot for the video. This might be a silly question but if your building a stud wall with a door opening do you need to fit a door lining or can you just use the new opening in the stud wall to hang your door right on it ? Thanks a lot
Great video. How long should it take to hang a oak veneer door handles as well, I've got to hang 5 but got to price it up I was thinking maybe £45 a door don't want to be to greedy ?
Pete, I tend to use a track saw to size the doors but I sometimes get blade burn especially when cutting the width. As you imagine it’s not easy getting rid when it happens. Any tips to prevent this happening?
Near enough exactly how I do it, other than.... I mark the hinge positions on both door and casing first, as I find it easier than marking off the fitted door hinges. I will make a guestimate on the height of the flooring, as once on, I don't want to take the door off again. I set my door back 1/8" ( 3mm in the devils measuring system ) back from the face of the casing, as I think it looks better. Just watched a video of a chap fitting 1 3/8" thick interior doors with 4" ball bearing hinges, neat enough, but looked bloody awful..... Trying to tell us we've been doing it wrong all these years.
Good to see some proper old techniques. 40 years in the trade here. 7” and 9” has always been the norm for me since I started but that’s maybe just regional deference’s. Only comment is your vid is for a perfectly set casing which is a rarity particularly if an old casing and I notice you don’t mention a closing angle on the latch side. Without this open your door by its thickness and the back edge clearance has virtually halved
Nice one Pete awesome 👌👌 I wish I would have watched this before I hung fd30 😂 although I managed to maintain the 4mm gap top and sides and a nice 8mm gap at bottom 😂 🙌🏻🙌🏻
9” up was to avoid the mortise on old doors, 99% modern doors are not built that way anymore so the 9” rule is only valid if your matching existing doors.
@@paulyoull5472 hi Paul, we used a cast iron iron and a wet cloth (not wringing wet) Place the wet cloth on the dink place the iron on it for a couple of seconds and repeat until the dink has lifted. You will be surprised how much it can be lifted
I always used a staff bead to transfer the hinge marks from the door to the casing when doing it the “tippy tappy way” 🫣 No lifting the door in. Less effort. Less time. More doors get hung = more £££££ These days though I’m jigged up to the max. “Keep It Painless” 😎
Its true, perspective.... 6 and 9 means when you stand back they look equally space from the top and bottom of the door. Ive seen diy doors without it and it looks awful.
Hi James, great video. Im a carpenter with 42 years experience and i still get a buzz out of whatching other carpenters apply their trade. A little fact for you, the 6 down 9 up came about in the 1800's. It was designed to miss the mortice and tennon joints where the rails and stiles met and that became the standard we still use today.
All the best. Phill 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the info buddy, you learn something new everyday! Have an awesome weekend! 👍
@@BuildWithAE No problem, you have a great weekend too👍👍👍
Depth Gauge brings back memories of school woodwork classes in the 1980's .
Mark with a sharp Stanley and use a router with a fence for me
I've always been told the 6 and 9 thing is for perspective as Pete says in the video. It's always interesting to hear what other joiners think when you see them on site.
It'd also be interesting to see how you go about hanging a door into a not so perfect casing. I've always used a knife mark around the hinge, glazing hammer and chisel and router, makes quick work of the job :)
I’ve been a joiner for 23 years and I was told the same thing about 6 and 9 on the hinges… makes sense to me.
With the hinge knuckles, to get people to remember which way round they go, I tell them to remember it’s “ most to the post “… the frame is doing the lifting so it needs more
Fitting doors is one of my favourite jobs. I got into woodworking when I was young. Fitted lots of doors and every door is different. Fitting into old linings is the most hardest job. I fitted 8 fire doors for someone last year. And I ad all the gear set up. Got hinge router jig and the souber drilling jig. etc to make life easier. I'm in Leamington Spa as well by the way.
You're mad.
I had to fit 13x pre finished oak veneered fire doors in an old Georgian3x story house last year. All the frames were wacky.
It's was a nightmare.
By the last two I was so fed up I insisted to the customer I replace the linings, out of my own pocket.
They weren't too happy but I was past caring.
I even had to replace a door because a chunk of the veneer came off when I was shooting the top in.
Lesson well and truly learned.
If you want prefinished oak doors, it's new linings or get somebody else.
Using a hinge jig and router is the quickest and neatest way to hang a door hands down.
However, I love do things old school as it keeps your hand in, you should also mark the width of the hinge with a marking gauge, it gives you a nice groove to sit your chisel in.
I've always been taught to chop the hinges in the frame first, then offer the door in and transfer marks across, reason being if you have to shoot a bit off the back edge of the door you'll have to re cut the hinges out again.
Not a bad tutorial though, everyone works differently 👍
A nice clean job; people underestimate the value of using the marking gauge. I mark it with a Stanley knife; I find it gives a cleaner edge. No mention of the need to apply a leading edge to the door though, which is rather surprising,
Yes I use mr Stanley, give a sharp straight accurate finish
With the right tools you make it look so easy. Without the right tools it takes a lot longer and doesn’t look as good.
Do a video of hanging a new door in to old frames please that are out of plumb, twisted and no level (on your own) 👍🏽👍🏽
Lol their speaks a person from experience. And also make sure its a veneered door with the usual wafer thin lipping's with the room filled up with furniture switch cable buried behind the linings along with people walking through every 5 minutes , oh and has to use the soft screws that come with the hinges.
Don’t forget the boss asking why it takes 3hrs to hang 1 door!it’s only a 5mins job!🤣
On frames which can't be wedged I set my temporary stops further back so I can scribe the door in. Like thickness of door plus 5 mm
Nice, traditional methods there Pete, and a cracking job you made too🤘
Great video. Personally i use a stanley knife to mark hinges. One time a young had to hang one door . Had to get hinge jig and router from his boss. Nice traditional vid👍👍
Always not had much interest in hanging doors…Im half tempted now to save on cost 👏🏼 Thanks Guys
The 6 and 9 inch spacing is actually like that so when ypu cut hinges Into traditional style doors, your not cutting hinges into the end grain of the tennons. Rather than being equidistant.
Thought the victorians came up with it as it’s somewhat of a optical illusion and look fairly even once on?
I agree with this, as the bottom rail was is, traditionally, wider than the top rail. There is also a misconception that the middle rail was a, 'lock rail', but in fact the middle rail is positioned lower than the centre of the door so when the lock is fitted in the centre, it is not removing any of the centre rail tenon.
People who know what they are talking about 👋
Learnt something today thanks guys.
I use a block of wood with a screw in to set hinge thickness
I got told the 9 inch bottom was because you can swing a chisel and a mallet upwards in the space at the bottom on the door linings.
If my woodwork teacher was bullshitting me, he is in for a strong letter. lol
I do the same yes "most to the post" is what I say....or if there's writing on the hinge, writing the right way around 😊👍🏻
Most to the post is what they told us at college too.
The spacing of hinges is different around the UK depending on what doors the factory came from when they were old schools and had proper mortice and tenons and it was to avoid chiseling into it.
Stop on buddy 👍
Yes Pete, smashing it with these solo tutorials 👏🏻
Glad you like them Ash! Pete is a natural - have a great day! 👍
Nice job , I have to say I am 60 yrs now and there are some desperate men hanging doors out there, I know you can use a router but good to see someone can still operate by hand 👍
Nice one Pete, so theraputic to see a caftsman doing it properly.
Thanks Roland! Have an awesome weekend 👍
if your hanging doors like this with hammer and chisel make a Rod to mark where hinges go on door and lining. saves a lot of time no need for temporary door stops or offering door up. if its new lining obviously.
6&9 method came from mortise and tenons on the doors to save blowing out the joints 👍
Your right that’s what I was told and make more sense.
Some great tips for me ( A brikky /wood butcher ) . Nice to see a good tradesman working . I'll let you know if I find one ;) !
Thanks a lot for the video. This might be a silly question but if your building a stud wall with a door opening do you need to fit a door lining or can you just use the new opening in the stud wall to hang your door right on it ? Thanks a lot
Hi B F never a silly question always put a door lining or casing in all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Really appreciate the advice Tony, much appreciated. Looking forward to using your videos in helping hang some doors and fit new lining
Yep, thought the 6 and 9 was down to our peripheral vision when looking straight ahead and downwards.
He’s my favourite, I know it’s not nice to have favourites, but this is my comment section and I’m saying he’s my favourite
Well done, I use a hinge jig and router as I can't get as crisp a finish with a chisel
So old fashioned, so basic and such a good job. From the other side of the “pond”
Great video. How long should it take to hang a oak veneer door handles as well, I've got to hang 5 but got to price it up I was thinking maybe £45 a door don't want to be to greedy ?
We hang internal doors with ironmongery £105.00 plus Vat all the best Tony
External £345.00 plus Vat
Pete great job on these videos man!!!
Hi Pete, where did you buy the hinge drill, the ones on screwfix seem to have mixed reviews, thanks
How much time would you say it takes to fully install a door in a new frame ?
Hi 1/2 Hr including hang and ironmonger all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE an hour and a half or 30 mins?
Was there no fitting of the door ie planing the door to suite the frame or did you make the frame bigger in width to suite the frame
Pete, I tend to use a track saw to size the doors but I sometimes get blade burn especially when cutting the width. As you imagine it’s not easy getting rid when it happens. Any tips to prevent this happening?
New blade or better saw? Or use what you've got and do 2 passes or cut it 1mm to large and use a smoothing plane it too the line
Handsaw and Jack plane.
Stop being lazy.
Hi Pete.
Great Pete.
Thanks Pete.
Superb job Pete 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it Marc, take care! 👍
Near enough exactly how I do it, other than....
I mark the hinge positions on both door and casing first, as I find it easier than marking off the fitted door hinges.
I will make a guestimate on the height of the flooring, as once on, I don't want to take the door off again.
I set my door back 1/8" ( 3mm in the devils measuring system ) back from the face of the casing, as I think it looks better.
Just watched a video of a chap fitting 1 3/8" thick interior doors with 4" ball bearing hinges, neat enough, but looked bloody awful..... Trying to tell us we've been doing it wrong all these years.
Good to see some proper old techniques. 40 years in the trade here. 7” and 9” has always been the norm for me since I started but that’s maybe just regional deference’s. Only comment is your vid is for a perfectly set casing which is a rarity particularly if an old casing and I notice you don’t mention a closing angle on the latch side. Without this open your door by its thickness and the back edge clearance has virtually halved
Cracking video. It was like watching Tom Hardy fit a door.
I'm A bit late to the party , do you have a video on how to do the door casing / surround, to take the door? Thank you
Hi yes we do search the video search button 👍
Thank you 👍
Nice one Pete awesome 👌👌 I wish I would have watched this before I hung fd30 😂 although I managed to maintain the 4mm gap top and sides and a nice 8mm gap at bottom 😂 🙌🏻🙌🏻
The 6 and 9 method came from the karma sutra book, doors enjoy swinging
Mark hinge with a stanley knife stops splits
Standard chisel is difficult to cut bottom hinge on frame side cant chop upwards
Thank you for another joinery lesson.
Thanks for watching Luke! 😎👍
Its a good rule of thumb, but I think it may be to do with the weight of the door and the rigidity of it.
Looking good Pete 😎 fair play to ya 👍🏻
Thanks Vince 👍
As a carpet fitter can I just say please don’t leave 3mm gap. 25mm from the floor covers underlay and carpet
Nice one Pete👍👍🍺🍺
Thanks for watching Mark! 😎👍
9” up was to avoid the mortise on old doors, 99% modern doors are not built that way anymore so the 9” rule is only valid if your matching existing doors.
Great video. Are 2 hinges enough for non fire doors? I hear it's a controversial topic 😉
You can iron out dents in veneer 😁👍🏻 you're welcome 😘
That was my job when I was a apprentice joiner
That takes me back
Interesting, is that just with a regular iron? I take it you need to place something between it ??
@@paulyoull5472 hi Paul, we used a cast iron iron and a wet cloth (not wringing wet)
Place the wet cloth on the dink place the iron on it for a couple of seconds and repeat until the dink has lifted. You will be surprised how much it can be lifted
@@denty32 one for the future I’m sure. Cheers pal
Lovely stuff, thank you
Nice Sorby chisel too…
thanks for the video, super useful tips!
Excellent video
Great Contact really Enjoyed watching guys . New sub 👍👊
Awesome thank you! Have a great weekend! 👍
Nice Pete, have not tried a router
Thanks for watching Neil! 👍
You never fit a frame or a door untreated - always pre treat prior to hanging if untreated which this deanta Cambridge door is
Good job thank you
Well explained 🤟🤟
Thank you buddy, have an awesome weekend! 👍
Pete finally getting the limelight he deserves!
Impressive 👍👌👏
Top stuff
Quickly!? Lmao slowest process I’ve ever seen
all videos never show joiner fiting door to old casings, so for diyers this could prove difficult.
to much back joint dangerous for little fingers ( kids )
That chisel handle doesn't look like boxwood, looks more like ash.
Exactly what I thought, but does it matter? it's still an old firmer chisel.
@@garyblake3130 It doesn't matter one bit for the quality of the tool. I'm just a wise arse who likes to point out mistakes/ errors when I spot them.😁
Whoa,whoa,whoa,it's not a race for goodness sake.
Hanging doors must be the most controversial topic among carpenters
The funny thing if you have sharp plane and chisel you can hang a door quicker I think then all this router business
@@BuildWithAE experience and sharp hand tools always the best way.
Ron
“But can he hang a door” for the Scott brown carpentry fans 😂
@@fireblaster9961 😂😂
@@BuildWithAE oh very controversial 🤣🤣
I always used a staff bead to transfer the hinge marks from the door to the casing when doing it the “tippy tappy way” 🫣
No lifting the door in.
Less effort.
Less time.
More doors get hung = more £££££
These days though I’m jigged up to the max.
“Keep It Painless” 😎
Its true, perspective.... 6 and 9 means when you stand back they look equally space from the top and bottom of the door. Ive seen diy doors without it and it looks awful.