Those 3 minutes were the fault of having to explain to us what you were doing and why. It's been studied/proven, that multitasking slows us down. I have a door I have wanted to have replaced. I think you just gave me the confidence to do it myself. Thank you, from an old woman.
I haven't heard anyone say water pump pliers. My dad which is gone now always said it. I think you and I are the only ones that k ow what that means. I'm a retired custom cabinet maker, trimmer, contractor. I love it water pump pliers. In my family it was Channel Locks. Just watching TH-cam and your video came up. Keep up the good work. Ed.
13 minutes is very respectable, particularly as you were explaining everything as you went. If I were doing that, it would take me a weekend. Part of that time bill would be explaining everything to my better half. She usually wants a detailed explanation about what’s happening, most commonly after I’ve applied 5 minute glue but before things have gone together.
A couple of suggestions. I always pre-drill with a countersink bit any screws I put through. The chance of cracking is too high (especially with MDF jambs) even with skinny screws, and I prefer not to risk bridging and to have the screw head guaranteed be below the surface without bulging up the surface. (for when it comes time to finish) I try to have the shims from both sides so I don't create an angle that when the screw goes in could cause the jamb to pull in a bit on the unsupported side. You may notice at the bottom edge below the bottom hinge the jamb curls in a bit towards the door (9/10 prehung doors seem to suffer from this) I'll do a predrill and countersink about one inch from the bottom and put a screw there. The screw allows fine tuning to be able to pull in that bottom leg so that the gap is consistent top to bottom)
Yes I always like to run shims as intended, one going each direction so your shim is parallel/square to the jamb. The molding will support the cavity if you don’t but if you run screws into the jambs first they’ll pull the jamb out of square.
Openings with that little tolerance can at times make it much more difficult to set a door properly. Getting an opening where the floor & the opening are perfectly plumb, level, & square is not as common as I would like & having a little extra room to set the door properly despite not having a perfect opening Is always welcome in my opinion.
When I was building homes we had a pretty slick method. You put the trim one side. Put the door in the hole and (one guy on each side of the door) pushed it all the way to the left and marked, pushed to opposite side and marked. Then it's easy to center the door in the hole based on your marks. You plumb and shoot the trim on the hinge side. Level the top, plumb the other side and shoot away. Guy on the other side puts the shims in. We had it down to a science and knocked all the doors out quick. Very fast and solid install
@@gregmurphy4231 I can see that hollow doors not needing it. I still do it because that's how my dad taught me to always shim a door to avoid callbacks.
Great work, so many so-called carpenters mess up the hanging of a prehung door set. They approach it as if it's a standard unit, stripping it down and defeating the purpose of the handiness of prehung. Weel done. Nicely demonstrated, cheers
Followed this tutorial to a tee yesterday on a coat closet door and results were perfect, thank you! Took me 45 min tho and that included watching college basketball on tv throughout.
Great job - instead of the headless screw I always got a 3" screw and used it in place of one of the hinge screws. Then again, I usually was putting up nickel hinges lol
I like to put the shims in from both sides to avoid twisting of the frame. But I love the idea of stapling up the shims first. It definitely makes it a quicker install.
Great process and explanation but after doing it for over 40 years, I found and easy way to hang the door on a wall that is not plumb. You centered the door frame flush with the drywall by starting at the top but if the wall is off plumb by more than 1/4 of an inch, the door frame is going to be 1/4 inch out on 1 side and 1/4 indented on the other side
Continuation. In order to solve that problem. You center the frame at mid height and then plumb it. It will automatically split the difference of the 1/4 inch. Hopefully I explained well. Thank you and I really enjoy your videos
For hollow core doors I like to case one side & set the door by plumbing at the hinges & nailing through the casing into the framing. This is enough for a good initial set on a hollow core door & allows the casing to act as a depth stop. It also makes it really easy to check your gaps & make adjustments if needed. Once the door is initially set, you can open the door and go to the uncased side to add shims before nailing the jambs & casing the other side.
You solve that problem by centering the door frame at mid height and then plumb it. It will automatically split the difference. Thank you and great videos
It can be good to split the difference to some degree. If you're doing picture frame mitres I try to keep the head of the jamb flush as possible and fudge the bottoms. Some times a sledge hammer can also help smack the wall back into plumb.
Just came across your channel Great video next time case the in swing of the door shot trim to wall and go back and shim and you only have to trim one side up everyone one has different ways I only install solid jams no split jam doors Great video again
@@redscortgt93 The jamb is rarely ever true and and plumb. The rough opening is always larger than the doors so even if it is perfect, it still needs to be shimmed to the right door width.
That's all fine and dandy for a newly framed opening. Now do it in a 100 year old house where the walls is different thicknesses top to bottom due to lathe & plaster, out of plumb and out of square .
I used to hang doors in existing door linings, which was a bit of a faff! Used to have to make the rebate wider as the new doors were always thicker than the old. I have never fitted a pre-hung door as we used to make the linings on site & then hang the doors from scratch including the locks & latches. That’s why I did 7 years as a chippy & became a building surveyor 👍😂
@@smudge600 Yeah, having to re-size each door is a pain and time consuming. I just did a dozen of them where every single door had a different jamb thickness, nothing was square in any direction by a lot and the doors needed to be resized top AND bottom so the door handle didn't end up too low (could only find pre drilled slabs at the time due to shortages)
Nice work, I have done doors infrequently enough that I end up just hacking them into place with lots of banging and wiggling. Nest time, I am going to watch this video the night before, great clinic. Remember though, go slow like a pro. Could tell you were trying to hurry, and you weren't as efficient. I work hard on that too. Thanks!
I'm a rough carpenter by trade but on the few hundred or so doors I've set, I've noticed that OFTEN, the stop moulding isn't perfectly set. So I'd end up chasing my tail trying to get the door to close plumb against the stop. I now check the stop mould reveal before moving the whole jamb to flush up a door.
Srsly!? That was awesome, dude!! If that isn't good enough for somebody you really don't need that person in your life! Haha. Thanks for all the great vids!
Great job man. Guessing you would have hit your mark for time if the old haste makes for waste didn't kick in. We all perform so much better when we can focus on the job at hand and not an eye over the shoulder.
The only places I would differ is centering the hinge jam to the drywall instead of plumb. I'm a little OCD about doors swinging (even a little) under their own weight. I'd rather trim a jam if it's proud of the drywall if needed or cut jam extensions if they're to shy. But I know this isn't optimal for production work. The other thing I would do differently is the 3" screw. I shim the top right at the center screw of the top hinge and use a 3" screw the same color as the hardware through the center screw hole.
Best luck with them in the future. If you prehang the shims with the fat part out toward the hinge side, it really does eliminate a lot of the things that can go wrong.
I usually pin a brace across the door frame to keep it square, and unpin prior to fixing to the jambs. At least you can keep it in place whilst shims are being located.
This is fine altogether but as a suggestion...before anything else, remove the door completely from the jamb. Then proceed with plumbing the hinge side after checking floor level and making adjustment to height. Next, use 2 foot level to check upper jamp and secure it to the header opening. Lastly, measure the opening of the jamb at the very top and work your way down the lock set side of the jamb ensuring the same width of the opening. Finally, reinstall door to jamb. This is how I've hanged doors for many years and it's always a perfect install while I never have to fight the weight or bulk of the door itself.
@@MSeroga it takes only a few seconds to remove the hinge pins. 🤦♂️ I've installed doors for 46 years and in a properly framed opening, it takes me 5 or 6 minutes to hang one. This is a great process to hang a door here but it's much easier to remove the door from the jamb first by removing the pins. Try it.
You somehow magically time your videos right when I need to do same project! What/where do you recommend for buying a prehung door? My house was built in the mid 90s and we have a glass panel door at the top of our basement stairs that opens down to the stairs and I want to replace it with one that opens/closes to code so my infant twins that are now all over the place don't somehow push the door open and tumble down the stairs. I love you content and thank you for past responses!
Good video. In particular I like the trick of using the level and preinstalling the shims on one side. You might want to consider doing a more thorough version that explains each step in more detail. If I hadn't watched a bunch of other door install videos and done it myself (once, with a lot of fussing and fiddling with shims :-)) I'd be pretty lost watching this.
Several things: Start by making a 14" 'Eye shaped' block. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" with a 6 1/2" taper both sides(1" flat spot on centre). Tapered to 1/4" one side(for finished floors) and 5/8" the other(for unfinished floors). Sand round the taper as to make a rocking block that performs smoothly. leave the two flat faces. This tool is now your DOOR PEDAL. Installation: Do all pre-measurements/plumb checks. Pre-stand your door in place on SPACER. Remove strike lock screw. Open door 90*. Place DOOR PEDAL under door ON CENTER. Angle door into finished position. While using the DOOR PEDAL(you will get the hang of it right quick). Set shims and screw upper HINGE SIDE. Hold level on inside of door to check for PLUMB, then check jamb for plumb. Set shims and screw bottom. Then do the same process. But check your door swing as well. It looked like YOUR INSTALL had a lazy close. I could be wrong. But would suspect by the way you shimmed, you have a trapezoidal/rhombic door opening. Proper shimming would solve this. As well, over time, the slight twist will effect the reveal. Especially on bathroom doors. the difference in a 10 year install and a 40 year install. DO NOT: Kick the door. You have a hammer and a block. Lean door against finished wall. LEAVE IT UNTIL YOU USE IT. Pre-nail shims. WASTE/REDUNDANT. Post-nail door. WASTE/REDUNDANT. Waste time dragging around a compressor from floor to floor. adding time-used to tools you don't need. WASTE. All presents you as more professional. Aaaaaand the painter won't hate you. Probably falls on deaf ears, but good luck. Tyler- Finish/Deficiency carpenter 20 years.
Pretty close to the way I use to do it but I never used a level b/c all I did was replacement. Had to balance between the paint lines. I would prep all the doors, bottom blocks and the latch keeper. Then put the door in the hole and pop a 16ga. up through the head. That holds it. Shim below the bottom hinge and shoot below it. That way you can pull the shim out if needed. Next it was a 16ga. with pressure @ the top hinge to suck it over. I would shim at the head on both sides, strong enough to hold it in place, balanced between the paint lines. The latch leg could go up or down, as could the hinge leg. Closing the door and temping the bottom of the latch leg. Paint line check... margin @ the head check. Margin check @ the top hinge to latch. Margin check @ the bottom hinge to latch leg. Check door hitting solid on the latch jamb. Nail the head and bottom shims. Always shim behind the bottom hinge shim. That's where the compression happens. Leave the top hinge free. If needed you can come back with a 2 1/2'' hinge screw. Then shim and nail at the latch. Did that for about 20 years. Never went to Door School. That's what worked for me. Got it down to 7 to 8 minutes after the prep. So that equal to your 10 minutes. But I was 47 when I started and gave it up around 67. Keep it up young man ;)
@thefunnycarpenter Where are you nailing & screwing, into the stop? What do you fill with? Love the pre attaching of shims. I'd also love a framer that gave me a reasonably Sq & plumb RO 🤦
Nail your trim on one side B4 u put the door in it keeps everything strait level and plumb good job though a lot of people will definity not make 10 minz
Camera 1 could have been at a better angle and a bit closer..... would helped a lot better seeing what exactly what you were doing and checking . Thanks for the video though! I will take what I can from it and im hopes when time has come to do the doors I wont f it up! Lol
I have many doors in my home and they are all different heights from the floor, so what do you do if you have a door and then 3 feet away another door and the bottom of one of the doors is 3 inches from the floor and the bottom of the other door is 1 inch from the floor
I have an 8 ft exterior door that hits at the bottom and the middle before the top makes contact with the stop. There is about a 1" gap at the top. It looks like the jamb curves outward at the top 1.5ft of the jamb on the latch side. Everything has been checked with a 6' level. My question is if I cut the top portion of the jamb loose do you think I could persuade the jamb to realign itself to match the door or would you think the wood of the jamb has warped over time and it would be a waste of time? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What if the door is existing but I have to replace the frame due to damage? So the door is not pre hung. Should I install the door into the frame first? If so, how?
Buddy fast cap make counter sink drill bit? Hang your door then remove that hinge just the jam side and counter sink a 3” screw right behind that hinge ! Now it’s hidden & your door will not move when painters come and take off the door paint it and throw it back on!
Hey Bos, hope you’re keeping well! Still haven’t see you in person, but I try to wear my Funny Carpenter” t-shirt every time I’m out your way, just in case!
Must be the way I carelessly throw my tools about🤣 Never realized I did this until I was editing the video. Cheers and happy New Years. Hopefully moving in the next few months.
Use Quick Door Hangers and will cut your time in half guaranteed or even less. Cost like around $4 for 6 fittings at Home Depot. No shimming needed, just super fast and accurate installation
I put blocks under the jambs. I usually don’t nail shims to the rough open bc sometimes the opening is 1.5” to wide which leaves for a great day of hacking crap together and telling my co worker how he should only be allowed to screw lightbulbs in.
Made the mistake of building my own door frame for an old door. It works and is plumb, but for some reason it binds just slightly when you are about to close. It does close okay, I thought after a year it would sow me through wear what's binding, but no luck.
I should send this to the shitty workers who built my house, given nearly every single interior door in my house is so crooked that they just close on their own.
Those 3 minutes were the fault of having to explain to us what you were doing and why. It's been studied/proven, that multitasking slows us down.
I have a door I have wanted to have replaced. I think you just gave me the confidence to do it myself.
Thank you,
from an old woman.
I haven't heard anyone say water pump pliers. My dad which is gone now always said it. I think you and I are the only ones that k ow what that means. I'm a retired custom cabinet maker, trimmer, contractor. I love it water pump pliers. In my family it was Channel Locks. Just watching TH-cam and your video came up. Keep up the good work. Ed.
13 minutes is very respectable, particularly as you were explaining everything as you went. If I were doing that, it would take me a weekend. Part of that time bill would be explaining everything to my better half. She usually wants a detailed explanation about what’s happening, most commonly after I’ve applied 5 minute glue but before things have gone together.
Lol that's funny
😂
your doing it the right way. looking good. i have been a carpenter for 48 years
Thanks Duane 🍻
A couple of suggestions.
I always pre-drill with a countersink bit any screws I put through. The chance of cracking is too high (especially with MDF jambs) even with skinny screws, and I prefer not to risk bridging and to have the screw head guaranteed be below the surface without bulging up the surface. (for when it comes time to finish)
I try to have the shims from both sides so I don't create an angle that when the screw goes in could cause the jamb to pull in a bit on the unsupported side.
You may notice at the bottom edge below the bottom hinge the jamb curls in a bit towards the door (9/10 prehung doors seem to suffer from this) I'll do a predrill and countersink about one inch from the bottom and put a screw there. The screw allows fine tuning to be able to pull in that bottom leg so that the gap is consistent top to bottom)
Yes I always like to run shims as intended, one going each direction so your shim is parallel/square to the jamb. The molding will support the cavity if you don’t but if you run screws into the jambs first they’ll pull the jamb out of square.
REALLY good info, like in my trade, its the little tips and tricks passed down/around, combined with EXPERIENCE of doing makes a PRO
You are a solid 2 mins faster than this old timer 😂. Definitely picked up a few tips on this video. Thank you sir.
Framer did a good job sizing that opening for the door. Makes door install much easier and faster.
Openings with that little tolerance can at times make it much more difficult to set a door properly. Getting an opening where the floor & the opening are perfectly plumb, level, & square is not as common as I would like & having a little extra room to set the door properly despite not having a perfect opening Is always welcome in my opinion.
When I was building homes we had a pretty slick method. You put the trim one side. Put the door in the hole and (one guy on each side of the door) pushed it all the way to the left and marked, pushed to opposite side and marked. Then it's easy to center the door in the hole based on your marks. You plumb and shoot the trim on the hinge side. Level the top, plumb the other side and shoot away. Guy on the other side puts the shims in. We had it down to a science and knocked all the doors out quick. Very fast and solid install
Not about you
That's exactly how I do prehung doors. Only I'm the guy on both sides lol.
These cordless nailers have really made the job so stress free lol
I was taught to do it the same way only when they're hollow doors
Sorry typo,. For hollow doors we skip the shims
@@gregmurphy4231 I can see that hollow doors not needing it. I still do it because that's how my dad taught me to always shim a door to avoid callbacks.
Ya' had me at Hangin' with Bob Ross. Great channel. I've used a number of your suggestions.
Cheers and thank you🍻
Great work, so many so-called carpenters mess up the hanging of a prehung door set. They approach it as if it's a standard unit, stripping it down and defeating the purpose of the handiness of prehung. Weel done. Nicely demonstrated, cheers
I use a rolling cart around jobs like these , saves bending over a thousand times ..great video thanks. I learned from it
Followed this tutorial to a tee yesterday on a coat closet door and results were perfect, thank you! Took me 45 min tho and that included watching college basketball on tv throughout.
🍻🔥
Great job - instead of the headless screw I always got a 3" screw and used it in place of one of the hinge screws. Then again, I usually was putting up nickel hinges lol
I like to put the shims in from both sides to avoid twisting of the frame. But I love the idea of stapling up the shims first. It definitely makes it a quicker install.
Great hustle, awesome tips, thanks for sharing!
Great process and explanation but after doing it for over 40 years, I found and easy way to hang the door on a wall that is not plumb. You centered the door frame flush with the drywall by starting at the top but if the wall is off plumb by more than 1/4 of an inch, the door frame is going to be 1/4 inch out on 1 side and 1/4 indented on the other side
Continuation. In order to solve that problem. You center the frame at mid height and then plumb it. It will automatically split the difference of the 1/4 inch. Hopefully I explained well. Thank you and I really enjoy your videos
Nice video, I like to tack two boards across the opening to keep the door flush and keep it from falling through, makes is much easier.
Nicely done! I like to add a shim above and below the strike plate for a little extra rigidity.
Excellent addition
For hollow core doors I like to case one side & set the door by plumbing at the hinges & nailing through the casing into the framing. This is enough for a good initial set on a hollow core door & allows the casing to act as a depth stop. It also makes it really easy to check your gaps & make adjustments if needed. Once the door is initially set, you can open the door and go to the uncased side to add shims before nailing the jambs & casing the other side.
You solve that problem by centering the door frame at mid height and then plumb it. It will automatically split the difference. Thank you and great videos
It can be good to split the difference to some degree. If you're doing picture frame mitres I try to keep the head of the jamb flush as possible and fudge the bottoms. Some times a sledge hammer can also help smack the wall back into plumb.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter the problem is obvious, we need a bigger hammer! Lol
Hey your videos are awesome. Love you presentation style, very clear. Brilliant stuff.
Just came across your channel Great video next time case the in swing of the door shot trim to wall and go back and shim and you only have to trim one side up everyone one has different ways I only install solid jams no split jam doors Great video again
Those are some extremely secured shims
Not fair! You have tools and expertise. Happy New Year!
Cheers Pete! Hope 2023 is a great year for you🍻
I was just thinking.... I remember doing it in under 10, and then you said it! And then that same realization hit me... that was 20 years ago!
I like how you tacked the shims up first... I always find myself wrestling the door and shimming at the same time. Good stuff 👍🏼
Putting the shims up first is a real game changer.
Why do you have to shim first if the hinge side stud is plumb, level, and straight? lol genuine question
@@redscortgt93 The jamb is rarely ever true and and plumb. The rough opening is always larger than the doors so even if it is perfect, it still needs to be shimmed to the right door width.
@@redscortgt93 the shims are wedges, so how far into the jam do you know to place the shim? it appears you just placed it randomly and shot the brad
@@redscortgt93 You always want to shim and not nail direct to the framing so you can make any adjustments needed.
That's all fine and dandy for a newly framed opening.
Now do it in a 100 year old house where the walls is different thicknesses top to bottom due to lathe & plaster, out of plumb and out of square .
I used to hang doors in existing door linings, which was a bit of a faff! Used to have to make the rebate wider as the new doors were always thicker than the old. I have never fitted a pre-hung door as we used to make the linings on site & then hang the doors from scratch including the locks & latches. That’s why I did 7 years as a chippy & became a building surveyor 👍😂
@@smudge600 Yeah, having to re-size each door is a pain and time consuming.
I just did a dozen of them where every single door had a different jamb thickness, nothing was square in any direction by a lot and the doors needed to be resized top AND bottom so the door handle didn't end up too low (could only find pre drilled slabs at the time due to shortages)
Nice work, I have done doors infrequently enough that I end up just hacking them into place with lots of banging and wiggling. Nest time, I am going to watch this video the night before, great clinic. Remember though, go slow like a pro. Could tell you were trying to hurry, and you weren't as efficient. I work hard on that too. Thanks!
It was definitely a bit of a struggle to try and explain things at the same time! I had to laugh at myself at how hard I was breathing🤣
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I really enjoy your videos, thanks for putting yourself out there. Thank you, and happy 2023!
I'm a rough carpenter by trade but on the few hundred or so doors I've set, I've noticed that OFTEN, the stop moulding isn't perfectly set. So I'd end up chasing my tail trying to get the door to close plumb against the stop. I now check the stop mould reveal before moving the whole jamb to flush up a door.
Srsly!? That was awesome, dude!! If that isn't good enough for somebody you really don't need that person in your life! Haha. Thanks for all the great vids!
Thanks for watching mate🍻
Why not have chims on opposite side so hanging side can have more support against stud. I'm legit wondering cause I don't know
Great job man. Guessing you would have hit your mark for time if the old haste makes for waste didn't kick in. We all perform so much better when we can focus on the job at hand and not an eye over the shoulder.
At first i thought this was a comedy video when you started to put the door in backwards and then it fell out of the opening. Good redemption.
Enjoyable to watch you. Lotta good tips. BTW, It's been 3 weeks since you did this. Are you and the Fam OK? Hope to see you soon.
The only places I would differ is centering the hinge jam to the drywall instead of plumb. I'm a little OCD about doors swinging (even a little) under their own weight. I'd rather trim a jam if it's proud of the drywall if needed or cut jam extensions if they're to shy. But I know this isn't optimal for production work. The other thing I would do differently is the 3" screw. I shim the top right at the center screw of the top hinge and use a 3" screw the same color as the hardware through the center screw hole.
Great video. I have struggled hanging doors in the past.
Best luck with them in the future. If you prehang the shims with the fat part out toward the hinge side, it really does eliminate a lot of the things that can go wrong.
Actually THE fastest way is to hire the Funny Carpenter
Great tips. Along the way that is how I have learned to do it.
Your breathing like you just ran a 3000 mile marathon!!
I usually pin a brace across the door frame to keep it square, and unpin prior to fixing to the jambs.
At least you can keep it in place whilst shims are being located.
Hmm, interesting idea
That's right... we can ALWAYS LEARN and get better...!!!
It would probably take me three hours since I would be constantly second guessing every little thing that I did throughout the process haha.
This is fine altogether but as a suggestion...before anything else, remove the door completely from the jamb.
Then proceed with plumbing the hinge side after checking floor level and making adjustment to height.
Next, use 2 foot level to check upper jamp and secure it to the header opening.
Lastly, measure the opening of the jamb at the very top and work your way down the lock set side of the jamb ensuring the same width of the opening. Finally, reinstall door to jamb.
This is how I've hanged doors for many years and it's always a perfect install while I never have to fight the weight or bulk of the door itself.
Feels like it takes so much time to take off the door and put it back on I rather fight the weight of the door and just install a door in 5 mins.
@@MSeroga it takes only a few seconds to remove the hinge pins. 🤦♂️ I've installed doors for 46 years and in a properly framed opening, it takes me 5 or 6 minutes to hang one.
This is a great process to hang a door here but it's much easier to remove the door from the jamb first by removing the pins.
Try it.
The jamb width same doesn't mean door gaps same because the hinges sometimes are fixed differently
You somehow magically time your videos right when I need to do same project! What/where do you recommend for buying a prehung door? My house was built in the mid 90s and we have a glass panel door at the top of our basement stairs that opens down to the stairs and I want to replace it with one that opens/closes to code so my infant twins that are now all over the place don't somehow push the door open and tumble down the stairs. I love you content and thank you for past responses!
Good video. In particular I like the trick of using the level and preinstalling the shims on one side. You might want to consider doing a more thorough version that explains each step in more detail. If I hadn't watched a bunch of other door install videos and done it myself (once, with a lot of fussing and fiddling with shims :-)) I'd be pretty lost watching this.
Several things:
Start by making a 14" 'Eye shaped' block.
1 1/2" x 1 1/2" with a 6 1/2" taper both sides(1" flat spot on centre).
Tapered to 1/4" one side(for finished floors) and 5/8" the other(for unfinished floors).
Sand round the taper as to make a rocking block that performs smoothly.
leave the two flat faces.
This tool is now your DOOR PEDAL.
Installation:
Do all pre-measurements/plumb checks.
Pre-stand your door in place on SPACER.
Remove strike lock screw.
Open door 90*.
Place DOOR PEDAL under door ON CENTER.
Angle door into finished position.
While using the DOOR PEDAL(you will get the hang of it right quick).
Set shims and screw upper HINGE SIDE.
Hold level on inside of door to check for PLUMB, then check jamb for plumb.
Set shims and screw bottom.
Then do the same process.
But check your door swing as well. It looked like YOUR INSTALL had a lazy close.
I could be wrong. But would suspect by the way you shimmed, you have a trapezoidal/rhombic door opening.
Proper shimming would solve this.
As well, over time, the slight twist will effect the reveal.
Especially on bathroom doors.
the difference in a 10 year install and a 40 year install.
DO NOT:
Kick the door. You have a hammer and a block.
Lean door against finished wall. LEAVE IT UNTIL YOU USE IT.
Pre-nail shims. WASTE/REDUNDANT.
Post-nail door. WASTE/REDUNDANT.
Waste time dragging around a compressor from floor to floor.
adding time-used to tools you don't need. WASTE.
All presents you as more professional. Aaaaaand the painter won't hate you.
Probably falls on deaf ears, but good luck.
Tyler- Finish/Deficiency carpenter 20 years.
Luv the real-time action. You should do some more of these :)
In my country we use mounting screws that secures the farme in all direction and i put only two diagonal shims in a door, unless its very heavy
Good job👍
Speed and the right way is the best.
Pretty close to the way I use to do it but I never used a level b/c all I did was replacement. Had to balance between the paint lines. I would prep all the doors, bottom blocks and the latch keeper. Then put the door in the hole and pop a 16ga. up through the head. That holds it. Shim below the bottom hinge and shoot below it. That way you can pull the shim out if needed. Next it was a 16ga. with pressure @ the top hinge to suck it over. I would shim at the head on both sides, strong enough to hold it in place, balanced between the paint lines. The latch leg could go up or down, as could the hinge leg. Closing the door and temping the bottom of the latch leg. Paint line check... margin @ the head check. Margin check @ the top hinge to latch. Margin check @ the bottom hinge to latch leg. Check door hitting solid on the latch jamb. Nail the head and bottom shims. Always shim behind the bottom hinge shim. That's where the compression happens. Leave the top hinge free. If needed you can come back with a 2 1/2'' hinge screw. Then shim and nail at the latch.
Did that for about 20 years. Never went to Door School. That's what worked for me. Got it down to 7 to 8 minutes after the prep. So that equal to your 10 minutes. But I was 47 when I started and gave it up around 67. Keep it up young man ;)
There's another TH-camr out there who once said: he drives a Bentley, but could he hang a door?
can hear your heartbeat start to pick up at the 7:40ish minute mark, thought I was going crazy hahah
On one side of opening put few straps across opening them door frame can sit against that especially useful when installing heavier doors
Very nice. I would love to see your next video with a closer look of what you're doing. May I suggest a camera on top of your hat. Thanks you!
Would love to see an exterior door that is all sorts of out and replacing the jamb and sill plate while keeping the same door.
OMG you made that look so easy took me 3 hours to get one exactly square and working. Ugh
should you have to hold the door closed? Seems to want to open on its own a few inches or is that normal?
@thefunnycarpenter Where are you nailing & screwing, into the stop?
What do you fill with?
Love the pre attaching of shims.
I'd also love a framer that gave me a reasonably Sq & plumb RO 🤦
Nail your trim on one side B4 u put the door in it keeps everything strait level and plumb good job though a lot of people will definity not make 10 minz
Interesting idea
I've tried it and I don't like it
👍👍👍 Wishing a happy healthy and prosperous New Year to you and your family.
You as well mate, thanks for watching🍻
Camera 1 could have been at a better angle and a bit closer..... would helped a lot better seeing what exactly what you were doing and checking . Thanks for the video though! I will take what I can from it and im hopes when time has come to do the doors I wont f it up! Lol
I have many doors in my home and they are all different heights from the floor, so what do you do if you have a door and then 3 feet away another door and the bottom of one of the doors is 3 inches from the floor and the bottom of the other door is 1 inch from the floor
"use the ol' boot hammer" 😂😂😂
Any reason why you don't shim then drill or nail the top of the lining ?
I have an 8 ft exterior door that hits at the bottom and the middle before the top makes contact with the stop. There is about a 1" gap at the top. It looks like the jamb curves outward at the top 1.5ft of the jamb on the latch side. Everything has been checked with a 6' level. My question is if I cut the top portion of the jamb loose do you think I could persuade the jamb to realign itself to match the door or would you think the wood of the jamb has warped over time and it would be a waste of time? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
What if the door is existing but I have to replace the frame due to damage? So the door is not pre hung. Should I install the door into the frame first? If so, how?
Thank you...
Great video.
Will help me out
How do you only add a shim from one side and not have the jam roll with the angle of the shim?
Very impressive! Especially in 1.5x speed haha...
You've clearly done a few of these ;)
Great video !!! thanks and happy New Year !!!!
Thanks Michael, I appreciate the support🍻
Good jobs
Buddy fast cap make counter sink drill bit? Hang your door then remove that hinge just the jam side and counter sink a 3” screw right behind that hinge ! Now it’s hidden & your door will not move when painters come and take off the door paint it and throw it back on!
Under 15 mins and you’ve got a door’
I’ve been “trying” to cut and install door casing for 2 weeks now’
procrastination is powerful
Much respect
Great job. Faster than me for sure.
Verticle is called plumb where I am from. Six nails in a shim?
Timely video, I'm celebrating NYE by replacing 6 doors in my house
Hey Bos, hope you’re keeping well! Still haven’t see you in person, but I try to wear my Funny Carpenter” t-shirt every time I’m out your way, just in case!
is it just me who would like to see the funniest way to hang a door? :)
The Funny Carpenter??? More like The Sexy Carpenter!!! 😊 IDK why...This guy is just too cute! 😁😘 Did you move into the new house?
Lol . I love your comment! 😁👍
Must be the way I carelessly throw my tools about🤣 Never realized I did this until I was editing the video. Cheers and happy New Years. Hopefully moving in the next few months.
Be sure to see the Funny Carpenters other video. It’s less rushed and more explained. Thanks for the tips!
This was great it gives me confidence that I can hang my own doors
You can do it!
Use Quick Door Hangers and will cut your time in half guaranteed or even less. Cost like around $4 for 6 fittings at Home Depot. No shimming needed, just super fast and accurate installation
I've heard these are easy but pretty weak installation. What's your experience with the strength?
@E Wong this is just a way to hang the doors easy. After hanging, then I shim and secure the frame with screws as I would normally do. Super strong
"plumb" is up and down. "Level" is horizontal. Folks still continue to get this wrong. Just sayin...
I put blocks under the jambs. I usually don’t nail shims to the rough open bc sometimes the opening is 1.5” to wide which leaves for a great day of hacking crap together and telling my co worker how he should only be allowed to screw lightbulbs in.
How do I fix really fine cracks above a door frame?
Up here in Canada, we don't have the braces on the bottom. They are usually encased in a cardboard wrap
He's in Canada (British Columbia)
I've definitely seen the cardboard wrap, it varies. Thanks for checking out the vid🍻
Thanks!
Make sure when you remove the shims you don't chip the jambs, but your kicking the door!
Why do you choose the 15ga over 16ga for this application?
The 15g is noticeably stronger in terms of holding the jamb.
How did you know the floor was level without using a level , thanks
I used a laser level, and quickly measured the laser line on both sides of the door.
I see you usually use Makita but was that a Milwaukee Multitool?
Great advice BTW.
Happy New Year, Funny!
Great video
Made the mistake of building my own door frame for an old door. It works and is plumb, but for some reason it binds just slightly when you are about to close. It does close okay, I thought after a year it would sow me through wear what's binding, but no luck.
Most doors edges are beveled by 1-2 degrees so they don't bind.
Man, you got to try them Essve Programa frame screws! No need to mess with shims. 😉
Please tell me what a headless screw is?
I should send this to the shitty workers who built my house, given nearly every single interior door in my house is so crooked that they just close on their own.
Me too!
Take a hinge pin out, bend it a little with a hammer and drive it back in. provides a bit of tension and it will stay put.
Psshh ..... 13 minutes 17 seconds. I could do it in 13 flat....
Just kidding. Another great video! Thanks.
Yes but could you also explain what you're doing all the while breathing incredibly hard into a lapel mic?🤣🍻