I love your channel and have followed all you guys for years and years! I’ve not long finished snagging and rectifying 25 ish doors left by another company in a poor state, trying to research the subject prior to these works was an absolute mind field. The final measuring stick we used for satisfaction was the local building control officer. I can’t help thinking you could make a mini series on this subject, people throwing around all sorts of suggestions of what should and shouldn’t be done on these door was getting ridiculous. One independent fire company suggested every door and frame should be removed and refitted with pre hung doors, on the other hand people were suggesting intrumiscent pads should be fitted to the hinge on every frame. In the end we satisfied the building inspector but I really hoped that this video may answer some of these more complex questions! Would be really interested to hear more on the subject, I got quite into it come the end.
I used to hate doing fire doors on commercial buildings. Two strips, one brushed, one not. Dirty great manual closers. Or have done quite a few electromagnetic release type closers. Then the Pirko finger biters. I remember them. We built a nursing home in the early nineties and that had a fire proof room in it. Supposedly if the old folks couldn't make it downstairs they could survive for up to an hour in this sealed room. We all said we wouldn't want to test it. I didn't have the fancy tools. Bog standard old Hitachi 1/2 router. And home made hinge jigs. Hang them on the tilt, top first. Pull the bottom out and kick a wedge under. Those hour burns were heavy.
Great video. 30 minute rating is under test conditions. In some cases a stairwell can be lightly pressurised to keep them clear of smoke. This allows for escape and faster response by the fire crews. Remember, leave the building and dont return.
Unbelievably, the recommendation from London Fire Brigade is still to "stay put" because it always makes sense to stay in a burning building waiting to be rescued by LFB.
Normally the plug is a Q Mark on a fire door but those don't look like Q marks. You can fit the intumescent on the door or the frame, with it on the door it means if the frame is old and needs remedial work to make it level etc you can do it without risking compromising the seal if you have an intumescent with built in smoke brush. The smoke shafts are designed not to let anything in but just the smoke out, some have a motorised pump system at the head to aid the removal of the smoke. You tend to find the window version of the smoke shaft in harbour areas in corridors or stair landings so that those awaiting rescue have a means to breath fresh air whilst any smoke that may make its way into the harbour goes out via the open window.
Hi Dan, good to see you back. Fire doors are such a contenous issue now with no 2 Building control having the same opinions. Unfortunately I think the Trada course I was told is about £800 so you need to be doing them a lot. If you see Del tell him to come back and see us YT isn't the same without him. 👍👍👍
Way way over a grand , plus a yearly subscription fee......even a cancelled Audit incurs a cost of £1300 + vat ..... Only needs another Grenfell and it will become mandatory, many university student s accommodation insist on correctly installed certified doors and rightly so ....
On a high rise the typical logic is to provide positive pressure into the stairwell to push the smoke out, you then have dampers from the stairwell onto each of the floors, those that have a fire alarm the dampers open to clear the smoke from the evacuation routes. Yes it fuels the fire, but you need to get people out. When the fire brigade arrives they often have a control panel so they can shut it off or manually direct air to certain floors. In road tunnels you see huge turbine fans which will run at full speed if there is fire, these will turn that fire into an inferno, but they should provide clear air for you to get out.
A few years ago 3 fireman knocked on my front door. they said we are offering free supply & fit of smoke detectors. I asked them if I should get some of those domestic fire escape rope ladders that you can clip under upstairs window sills. they said not to bother as smoke detectors will alert you to fire a long time before any danger.
The windows you were talking about are AOVs, if they’re used it will be a fire engineered solution, not just something a builder or architect has decided to include
Qualified Carpenter Almost 35 Years. 3 Years Ago Was On Site, Foreman Said have you got your fire door safety certificate, I said no. He Said Your not Qualified to hang Fire Doors you need to stop, it made my day been hanging these things for 3 decades 😂😂
Things are changing with fire doors (and anything else related to fire safety), we’re in the middle of the change which is why some only accept competence which can be evidenced by completing specific courses - most of which aren’t really about your carpentry skills as they’re far too short
@@bobjit252 because fire safety strategies are created on the assumption that an FD30 fire door will give 30 minutes of protection, if it’s not installed to a specific standard it’s not going to give 30 minutes of protection and that has a direct impact on life safety
@@bobjit252 it’s not just about hanging it, it’s the hardware used and how it’s installed (much more than just the hinges), the gaps around the edges and the frame
There are several concernss I would have about the accuracy of this video. It appears you have a softwood frame but was this supplied by the same manufacturer (frame and door leaf) or has the door leaf and frame been supplied separately? If seperately then it cannot be considered a certified doorset but a certified door leaf in a frame. Why do I assume this, because a doorset would have had a frame already routed for the seals and may have required intumescent pads for the hinges but not always required for an FD30 door. Secondly you make no mention of the frame being fitted with the correct fixing and the right distance between each, or anything about fire stopping the frame to substrate. Nothing about architraves needing to be fitted to both faces of the frame allowing for the required overlap prescribed by the manufacturer. This video could be seen as authoritative but suggest you need to be careful you have a very skilled, time served, experienced carpenter who may have installed 100s of doors but is he an accredited fire door installer or just an experienced installer. Insurnace companies are becoming more and more particular, and we see some issues arising when an accredited installer is not used. As this door would be seen as a fire door to the exit from this room or floor then a closer is required. The plugs in the bottom of the door are often where the door is hung in the factory and the laquer or paint applied to the door leaf. More homework required guys your video title may land you in trouble you are missing critical information to make this video complete and reliable.
completely agree. this is a complex & contentious subject currently in the industry that only properly advised and trained people should be advising on.
Great comment here Ian i have the same concerns as i used to work within the fire door industry, my concern is also one of yours the softwood frame should have a sticker be it BM Trada or Certifire, the door leaf should also have the manufacturers or door blank processors sticker with a reference to their certification. Prime example of this industry being a mine field for information, I know for certain those Eurospec hinges are incorrectly fitted as per their Certifire certificate (CF5776) it stipulates they should be fitted on a 1mm intumescent pad for 30 minute doors. This is where i would have to agree that doors should only be installed by certified installers preferably as a doorset as this is becoming the standard, this would be predominantly a BM Trada certified installer from my experience. There is just too much to understand without prior training from the door blank, hinges, correct fire stopping around the frame, intumescent, the correct closers, speed of closing, gaps and even down to hinge positions. The installer needs to know the ins and out of the certificates to know what they are installing is actually correct.
I fit my own fire door in my house to integral garage (FD30) with chunky frame with rebates for intumescent smoke seals, I fit certified hinges with 1mm pads on both door and frame also fitted a perko chain with intumescent surround,the frame to masonry had to be fire foamed A1 and also sealed with intumescent sealant on top, the door was hung with a margin of 4mm all the way round with a slight leading edge, slams like a good en with the perko.building inspector was happy sign all off etc… then I went and put a 5level dead lock in and totally fd it. Only went and cut out tho whole of the lock (faceplate width) 🙃 so had to glue a pice of hardwood in and start again was gutted.. question is should it have a door closer fitted at the top?although every other fire door in the house(existing) has perk chains on
@@kingofthetrowel1725 in my experience always check the label on the door blank, there is usually a reference to the door manufacturers certificate, for example certifire will be “cf000” some numbers relating to that door blank, it will list the components required to be fitted for it to be “as per the cert”. Door gaps, closers, intumescent types and hinge positions should all be listed, it really is a minefield but my best piece of advice is always check the manufacturers cert and utilise it. There’s some large differences between what’s allowed and what isn’t based on manufacturers certs, for example integrated drop seals may be allowed on a FD30 fire door but the testing on the FD60 blank may only allow face fixed. But to answer your question regarding the Perko chains, it’s all down to if it’s been tested and approved within the manufacturers fire certificate, but generally a door closer must be used.
Old factory sliding doors had the rail on angle and held open by a piece of rope. In a fire the rope would burn and the door slide shut, cutting oxygen supply
Strangely a fire door works in two directions. It is the principle of compartmentalising the fire as explained in the Building Regualations. Sadly it didn't work in the case of Grenfell and countless other high rise fires around the world.
Frames have to be fire rated now or the doors defunct. Fire will burn through around the door. It’s all OTT. Even the hinge is rated. I’ve seen many fire doors on normal hinges and over 10mm gap at the ground.
Well intentioned video and clearly the gent is a skilled guy. However there is a lot of confused statements being made in the vdeo, not only in relation to fire doors but also to general fire safety standards and priciples. A number of these points have been commented on by others. I would advise that fire doors are only fitted by 3rd party accredited fire door installers.
That is the name of the game now, you need a card for everything. That is one reason people are leaving the industry and nobody is joining. It is a massive problem
@@SkillBuilder 100% Roger, I had. job request to close a gap in-between the doors as it was too big, had to put it out to a contractor, he came and stuck 3 intumescent pads behind the bottom hinge, unbelievable
I still make my own hinge jigs, a bit of ply and in about 10 minutes I'm good to go, I have to hide them from the labourers though, they tend to throw them out even when I clearly mark them not to!
Only true way is to fit a fire door set as that is a match to how the manufacturer achieved the results in the test. mix and match is all assuming they work together which some fire inspectors dont like, Then on the other side. Building inspectors on loft conversions except just a fd30 in a existing frames no checking the gaps, no strips,no fd hinges or even a closers wtf! where is the consistency?
@johnhaydon4055 ghe problem usually occurs whilst charging. You're more likely to charge an ev scooter at night when you're sleeping. Drills, not so much. 😂
no intumescent packers behind the hinges Fire doors are weird different methods for different manufacturers just needs to be fitted to their tested guidelines
it doesnt matter if you think it still works. That door was fire rated/tested. Now it has been changed by routering a strip in it. its not right. should be changed.
you've got it the wrong way around. the fire door is protecting the 'means of escape' so people can escape in the event of a fire. so in theory the escape route never has smoke or fire in it. well up to 30 mins at least. also I'm not sure this install is strictly correct routering into the door yourselfs. everything should be a tested system & that clearly is not if self routering the strips in. its highly likely those door frames are not fire rated if they did not come pre-routered . That door is likely only tested to FD30 if the intumescent strips are in the frame of the door & not the door itself - therefore strictly speaking without the test data it means nothing. (Architectural technician) I currently have this day in day out, its gone mad, but if theres no test data it means nothing the ways things currently stand.
yes in theory because the operative phrase there. Fire doors comparmentalise the fire. Obviously stair ways should not have anything in them that can spread flame but they are chimneys.
You can't just stick the intumescent in the door because the frame is tricky, those plugs in the top tell you door manufacturer and you must fit the parts according to their field of application report which is basically their fire testing report. Come to SELO doors and we'll tell you all about fire doors and fitting them safely and quickly
Hi Richard, I meant the frames were fitted before I hung any doors so the options were for the intumescent strip in the door. I’d be happy to come to you and learn some more. Dan.
Fitting fire doors in new build is a doddle. Much harder to fit in an old building, take the frame out, realise the new fire door frame is thicker than the old one and won’t fit, You can now get stick on intumescent smoke and fire strip, which saves routing the door, and actually seals behind the hinges
I bought the Dan's hinge jig,(it's great) with fire door space block. Did I spend extra money unnecessarily? You put second hinge on the middle, not 100mm from top one.
Thanks for buying one. It depends on the spec where you put the hinges. We made the 100 mm hinge block so you can put two hinges near the top of the door. I put 3 hinges on this door equally spaced as required.
I’m sorry but this is a poor example of fitting a fire door Roger, there’s so many key components, fixing points, sealing of the frame to wall substrate etc etc it would be good if you went more in depth next time with a registered fire door installer as these things are there to save lives 👍
2:29 That’s just to much a chippie going to the USA for bloody fishing. Give me a break no bloody wonder we have shi=te going on when someprick flies to the usa for just fishing. No bloody wonder we cant afford to buy a simple home.
It's always easy to find the fire extinguisher in the event of a fire because it's always keeping the fire door open.
I love your channel and have followed all you guys for years and years! I’ve not long finished snagging and rectifying 25 ish doors left by another company in a poor state, trying to research the subject prior to these works was an absolute mind field. The final measuring stick we used for satisfaction was the local building control officer. I can’t help thinking you could make a mini series on this subject, people throwing around all sorts of suggestions of what should and shouldn’t be done on these door was getting ridiculous. One independent fire company suggested every door and frame should be removed and refitted with pre hung doors, on the other hand people were suggesting intrumiscent pads should be fitted to the hinge on every frame.
In the end we satisfied the building inspector but I really hoped that this video may answer some of these more complex questions!
Would be really interested to hear more on the subject, I got quite into it come the end.
I think we need to do an in-depth video on it.
@@SkillBuilder
I second that, it would be an interesting watch.
Neat job Dan! 👍🏼 I always fit fire rated downlighters… they also have an intumescent pad which swells up to slow the🔥
I used to hate doing fire doors on commercial buildings. Two strips, one brushed, one not. Dirty great manual closers. Or have done quite a few electromagnetic release type closers. Then the Pirko finger biters. I remember them. We built a nursing home in the early nineties and that had a fire proof room in it. Supposedly if the old folks couldn't make it downstairs they could survive for up to an hour in this sealed room. We all said we wouldn't want to test it. I didn't have the fancy tools. Bog standard old Hitachi 1/2 router. And home made hinge jigs. Hang them on the tilt, top first. Pull the bottom out and kick a wedge under. Those hour burns were heavy.
Dan the man is back. That last house is looking very nice 🤩🤩
🙌🙏🏼
Great job Dan, nice to see you back
More to come!
Thanks Mark.
Great video. 30 minute rating is under test conditions. In some cases a stairwell can be lightly pressurised to keep them clear of smoke. This allows for escape and faster response by the fire crews. Remember, leave the building and dont return.
Unbelievably, the recommendation from London Fire Brigade is still to "stay put" because it always makes sense to stay in a burning building waiting to be rescued by LFB.
Normally the plug is a Q Mark on a fire door but those don't look like Q marks. You can fit the intumescent on the door or the frame, with it on the door it means if the frame is old and needs remedial work to make it level etc you can do it without risking compromising the seal if you have an intumescent with built in smoke brush. The smoke shafts are designed not to let anything in but just the smoke out, some have a motorised pump system at the head to aid the removal of the smoke. You tend to find the window version of the smoke shaft in harbour areas in corridors or stair landings so that those awaiting rescue have a means to breath fresh air whilst any smoke that may make its way into the harbour goes out via the open window.
Lovely work indeed.
Never found myself here first, love the channel, how to’s and rants equally.
Hi Dan, good to see you back. Fire doors are such a contenous issue now with no 2 Building control having the same opinions. Unfortunately I think the Trada course I was told is about £800 so you need to be doing them a lot. If you see Del tell him to come back and see us YT isn't the same without him. 👍👍👍
Way way over a grand , plus a yearly subscription fee......even a cancelled Audit incurs a cost of £1300 + vat .....
Only needs another Grenfell and it will become mandatory, many university student s accommodation insist on correctly installed certified doors and rightly so ....
great vid , seeing the master at work
Super job Dan!!
Thanks Sam.
Good to see you back Daniel. Hope you're keeping well fella👋🏻
Thanks Lee , all good.
Hope you too. 🙌
On a high rise the typical logic is to provide positive pressure into the stairwell to push the smoke out, you then have dampers from the stairwell onto each of the floors, those that have a fire alarm the dampers open to clear the smoke from the evacuation routes. Yes it fuels the fire, but you need to get people out. When the fire brigade arrives they often have a control panel so they can shut it off or manually direct air to certain floors.
In road tunnels you see huge turbine fans which will run at full speed if there is fire, these will turn that fire into an inferno, but they should provide clear air for you to get out.
A few years ago 3 fireman knocked on my front door. they said we are offering free supply & fit of smoke detectors. I asked them if I should get some of those domestic fire escape rope ladders that you can clip under upstairs window sills. they said not to bother as smoke detectors will alert you to fire a long time before any danger.
The windows you were talking about are AOVs, if they’re used it will be a fire engineered solution, not just something a builder or architect has decided to include
Qualified Carpenter Almost 35 Years.
3 Years Ago Was On Site, Foreman Said have you got your fire door safety certificate, I said no.
He Said Your not Qualified to hang Fire Doors you need to stop, it made my day been hanging these things for 3 decades 😂😂
Things are changing with fire doors (and anything else related to fire safety), we’re in the middle of the change which is why some only accept competence which can be evidenced by completing specific courses - most of which aren’t really about your carpentry skills as they’re far too short
It’s a fooking door ffs , there stupidly heavy and for a chippy who’s probably hung hundreds why now does he need a certificate it’s another tax scam
@@bobjit252 because fire safety strategies are created on the assumption that an FD30 fire door will give 30 minutes of protection, if it’s not installed to a specific standard it’s not going to give 30 minutes of protection and that has a direct impact on life safety
@@JayGee6996 as I don’t know is the fire door hung differently to a ordinary door?
@@bobjit252 it’s not just about hanging it, it’s the hardware used and how it’s installed (much more than just the hinges), the gaps around the edges and the frame
Nice job Dan, did I see the Benchdog big plate on your router, if so what do you think of it?
Hi, and thanks.
Yes it’s a benchdogs big plate and it’s very good. The guide bush has some movement so it can be centralised. Few other features too.
Interesting! Appreciated gents.
There are several concernss I would have about the accuracy of this video. It appears you have a softwood frame but was this supplied by the same manufacturer (frame and door leaf) or has the door leaf and frame been supplied separately? If seperately then it cannot be considered a certified doorset but a certified door leaf in a frame. Why do I assume this, because a doorset would have had a frame already routed for the seals and may have required intumescent pads for the hinges but not always required for an FD30 door.
Secondly you make no mention of the frame being fitted with the correct fixing and the right distance between each, or anything about fire stopping the frame to substrate. Nothing about architraves needing to be fitted to both faces of the frame allowing for the required overlap prescribed by the manufacturer. This video could be seen as authoritative but suggest you need to be careful you have a very skilled, time served, experienced carpenter who may have installed 100s of doors but is he an accredited fire door installer or just an experienced installer. Insurnace companies are becoming more and more particular, and we see some issues arising when an accredited installer is not used. As this door would be seen as a fire door to the exit from this room or floor then a closer is required.
The plugs in the bottom of the door are often where the door is hung in the factory and the laquer or paint applied to the door leaf.
More homework required guys your video title may land you in trouble you are missing critical information to make this video complete and reliable.
completely agree. this is a complex & contentious subject currently in the industry that only properly advised and trained people should be advising on.
Great comment here Ian i have the same concerns as i used to work within the fire door industry, my concern is also one of yours the softwood frame should have a sticker be it BM Trada or Certifire, the door leaf should also have the manufacturers or door blank processors sticker with a reference to their certification.
Prime example of this industry being a mine field for information, I know for certain those Eurospec hinges are incorrectly fitted as per their Certifire certificate (CF5776) it stipulates they should be fitted on a 1mm intumescent pad for 30 minute doors.
This is where i would have to agree that doors should only be installed by certified installers preferably as a doorset as this is becoming the standard, this would be predominantly a BM Trada certified installer from my experience.
There is just too much to understand without prior training from the door blank, hinges, correct fire stopping around the frame, intumescent, the correct closers, speed of closing, gaps and even down to hinge positions.
The installer needs to know the ins and out of the certificates to know what they are installing is actually correct.
Fire, Gas, electrics and marriage .. think thrice before you get involve with any of these subjects
I fit my own fire door in my house to integral garage (FD30) with chunky frame with rebates for intumescent smoke seals, I fit certified hinges with 1mm pads on both door and frame also fitted a perko chain with intumescent surround,the frame to masonry had to be fire foamed A1 and also sealed with intumescent sealant on top, the door was hung with a margin of 4mm all the way round with a slight leading edge, slams like a good en with the perko.building inspector was happy sign all off etc… then I went and put a 5level dead lock in and totally fd it. Only went and cut out tho whole of the lock (faceplate width) 🙃 so had to glue a pice of hardwood in and start again was gutted.. question is should it have a door closer fitted at the top?although every other fire door in the house(existing) has perk chains on
@@kingofthetrowel1725 in my experience always check the label on the door blank, there is usually a reference to the door manufacturers certificate, for example certifire will be “cf000” some numbers relating to that door blank, it will list the components required to be fitted for it to be “as per the cert”. Door gaps, closers, intumescent types and hinge positions should all be listed, it really is a minefield but my best piece of advice is always check the manufacturers cert and utilise it.
There’s some large differences between what’s allowed and what isn’t based on manufacturers certs, for example integrated drop seals may be allowed on a FD30 fire door but the testing on the FD60 blank may only allow face fixed.
But to answer your question regarding the Perko chains, it’s all down to if it’s been tested and approved within the manufacturers fire certificate, but generally a door closer must be used.
Old factory sliding doors had the rail on angle and held open by a piece of rope. In a fire the rope would burn and the door slide shut, cutting oxygen supply
The firedoor is there to keep the fire in the room so that the stairwell can still be used by others to evacuate the building.
Strangely a fire door works in two directions. It is the principle of compartmentalising the fire as explained in the Building Regualations. Sadly it didn't work in the case of Grenfell and countless other high rise fires around the world.
@@SkillBuilder If the fire has got to the door I am already out of the window.
No intumescent pads behind the hinges? Almost every supplier requires these to be fitted to be FD compliant.
Not necessarily true , if it was an FD60 then yes .
Frames have to be fire rated now or the doors defunct. Fire will burn through around the door.
It’s all OTT.
Even the hinge is rated. I’ve seen many fire doors on normal hinges and over 10mm gap at the ground.
All the time. (Almost everyday)
My fire door was fitted with perko chaines apparently they’re illegal 😮
@@kingofthetrowel1725 seen them on old doors. Finger nippy stuff
for example fire sealing timber terraced housing, use of fire rating plasterboard etc
Well intentioned video and clearly the gent is a skilled guy. However there is a lot of confused statements being made in the vdeo, not only in relation to fire doors but also to general fire safety standards and priciples. A number of these points have been commented on by others. I would advise that fire doors are only fitted by 3rd party accredited fire door installers.
204lbs is 14 and half stone. 14lbs to a stone , impressive catch none the less
Usually when Roger points the camera at me my mind tends to go blank on some simple question..
thanks.
Been fitting these for over 20 years, now I'm told i'm not "Fire door" trained so I cannot fit these anymore !
That is the name of the game now, you need a card for everything. That is one reason people are leaving the industry and nobody is joining. It is a massive problem
yep.im in the same boat.to heavy now anyway.knew this video was going to get the reaction it has
@@SkillBuilder 100% Roger, I had. job request to close a gap in-between the doors as it was too big, had to put it out to a contractor, he came and stuck 3 intumescent pads behind the bottom hinge, unbelievable
@@jamiefors5062 I’ve packed out with 1 before but not 3!!
Did the fire door hinges not come with intumescent pads/packers?
Once you have removed that label from the top of the door you have removed all traceability therefore the door is no longer compliant
What about drop down seal? And gap allowance?
Fire door sets
Meant to be fire lining which different thickness to a standard door lining
I feel like the title of the video should be something like "help save lives in a fire" rather than being worried about a lawsuit
I still use a Yankee!
Can you still buy the bits. I have a Yankee but no bits
@@SkillBuilder Showing your age there! My dad used to use one years back could never get the swing of it
interesting stuff, any more similar to follow?
We run a fire door installation course if you are intresred? Passive fire installation as well.
How much is it mate?
I still make my own hinge jigs, a bit of ply and in about 10 minutes I'm good to go, I have to hide them from the labourers though, they tend to throw them out even when I clearly mark them not to!
you would have to mark them in ten languages to stand a chance of them not ending up in the skip
You should know better. If it's not a full sheet or full length, it's skip fodder! 😅
@@SkillBuilder That's very true.
I still use a hammer and chisel haha
Only true way is to fit a fire door set as that is a match to how the manufacturer achieved the results in the test.
mix and match is all assuming they work together which some fire inspectors dont like,
Then on the other side. Building inspectors on loft conversions except just a fd30 in a existing frames no checking the gaps, no strips,no fd hinges or even a closers wtf! where is the consistency?
Nobody gives a flying do they mate, I’ve seen the with 8mm gapes in new builds and same again just gets passed off
Tin boxes filled with petrol 😂 Better than an EV scooter in the house with a rechargeable incendiary device.
You carry a rechargeable incendiary device every day in your pocket
@@UnipornFrumm And use them to hang fire doors
@UnipornFrumm personally, I never saw the need to complain about "tin boxes filled with petrol" but if we're going there......well
@johnhaydon4055 ghe problem usually occurs whilst charging. You're more likely to charge an ev scooter at night when you're sleeping. Drills, not so much. 😂
no intumescent packers behind the hinges
Fire doors are weird different methods for different manufacturers just needs to be fitted to their tested guidelines
Strip should be in the frame.
Door or the frame, it still works.
it doesnt matter if you think it still works. That door was fire rated/tested. Now it has been changed by routering a strip in it. its not right. should be changed.
you've got it the wrong way around. the fire door is protecting the 'means of escape' so people can escape in the event of a fire. so in theory the escape route never has smoke or fire in it. well up to 30 mins at least. also I'm not sure this install is strictly correct routering into the door yourselfs. everything should be a tested system & that clearly is not if self routering the strips in. its highly likely those door frames are not fire rated if they did not come pre-routered . That door is likely only tested to FD30 if the intumescent strips are in the frame of the door & not the door itself - therefore strictly speaking without the test data it means nothing. (Architectural technician) I currently have this day in day out, its gone mad, but if theres no test data it means nothing the ways things currently stand.
yes in theory because the operative phrase there. Fire doors comparmentalise the fire. Obviously stair ways should not have anything in them that can spread flame but they are chimneys.
Dont look like fire check casings, too thin.
No
You can't just stick the intumescent in the door because the frame is tricky, those plugs in the top tell you door manufacturer and you must fit the parts according to their field of application report which is basically their fire testing report.
Come to SELO doors and we'll tell you all about fire doors and fitting them safely and quickly
Hi Richard,
I meant the frames were fitted before I hung any doors so the options were for the intumescent strip in the door.
I’d be happy to come to you and learn some more.
Dan.
OK we will do that. get in touch through www.skill=builder.uk/send
Fitting fire doors in new build is a doddle.
Much harder to fit in an old building, take the frame out, realise the new fire door frame is thicker than the old one and won’t fit,
You can now get stick on intumescent smoke and fire strip, which saves routing the door, and actually seals behind the hinges
@@ianboyd9723 have a look at Modulo doors we can accommodate varying wall thickness and opening width
Take SB up on their offer @@richardpeel4159
I bought the Dan's hinge jig,(it's great) with fire door space block. Did I spend extra money unnecessarily? You put second hinge on the middle, not 100mm from top one.
Thanks for buying one.
It depends on the spec where you put the hinges. We made the 100 mm hinge block so you can put two hinges near the top of the door. I put 3 hinges on this door equally spaced as required.
No more a fire door than my arse is a kipper , video needs taking down
I’m sorry but this is a poor example of fitting a fire door Roger, there’s so many key components, fixing points, sealing of the frame to wall substrate etc etc it would be good if you went more in depth next time with a registered fire door installer as these things are there to save lives 👍
We have that lined up for a future video.
Good to hear. Maybe go to a test centre as well and show a door burned under test . Look forward to it 👍
Really that’s shit them doors need 2 people
This video is a joke
2:29 That’s just to much a chippie going to the USA for bloody fishing.
Give me a break no bloody wonder we have shi=te going on when someprick flies to the usa for just fishing.
No bloody wonder we cant afford to buy a simple home.
Ha,ha! That is hilarious. What on Earth makes you think that he flew to the USA? He went in his private superyacht.
I don’t just go to the states fishing.
Work hard, play hard.
@@SkillBuilder😉
No