Thanks for taking the time the put this video together, it adds so much more time to the work. Also like thinking of new ways to upgrade older vehicles across all systems. Great work man! 👍PS you almost scraped it on a pebble 🤣
Generally with a 10SI / 12SI alternator, the larger brown wire goes to the dash bulb, then to key B+. The bulb limits current to 1/4 amp (0.25 amp) and system voltage for sensing. The second wire is dead until changing then operates a relay for the choke heater. B+ from alt, to the relays coil to ground. Key hot during crank, run passes thru 30 & 87 to choke. Key on, engine off, you don’t want the choke opening as it will be hard to start. Thermal fan switch is in coolant and provides ground for 1 or 2 relays. A 30-40 amp fuse depending on fan, to 30 & 87 as both grounds soldered and shrink tube can bolt to core support using “Star” washers that dig into paint to metal. Internal star washer goes on first, flat washer, fan ground flat, lock washer and bolt. I use dielectric grease on every terminal inside connectors plus sides and bottom of park bulbs. This keeps them from turning green with high resistance. Both washers & dielectric grease is sold in automotive at home improvement stores, 1/2 price of parts stores. Ground parts and sensors. Use Permatex white pipe & thread sealant as it will allow connection to ground. Teflon tape won’t work! The back of the alternators case is where ground is produced. To provide a complete circuit, run a 4/0 cable from threaded hole on alternator to intake or block, don’t forget intake to cab & ground terminal at HEI distributor. It is marked as metal strap bends and terminates a coil screw. Ground from battery to inner wheel house / fender, frame, block, fame to cab underneath and since it’s a truck, provide frame to bed ground to reduce voltage drop to stop, turn, reverse and tag light! Also, tail light assembly crimp socket into housing. Time may corrode this connection. Empty the socket, wire wheel and solder this connection. Using LED’s are great at 12Vdc but real low current. This increases voltage drop problems. I drill, clean, machine screw with star washer and run separate bolt to beds frame. Any place that can get wet, drippy boots, snow, car wash and humid days when temp drops overnight as dew on grass, dew on metal terminals. Take photos is easy now, so color, face female and male, wire size is metric, circuit numbers (Since 86) GM uses same colors and circuit numbers. They are broken into cells to everything in one circuit from horns to tail lights. Location of connectors have an order as well! Engine compartment is 100 series, dash is 200, 300 at rear seats, 400 at tail lights, 500 is bumper, 600 LF door, 700 RF door and so on. So in reverse lights, battery at top, fuse to relay/fuse box, connector gray (Photo on page 203-H) cavity A13, gray w/ black, frame to tail lights. Reverse switch, relay, fuse, connector to complete circuit when in reverse. Increase’s selling value, reduces the cost of out of town repairs, include brands, P/N’s, special notes, specs, line size, torque, wrench size and bolt spec like grade 8. Include charts for references as a good tech can and fix it cheaper with info. Printed, thumb drive or CD will make any future repair easier, faster and less money. Copy receipts that have lifetime warranty, with customer service number and serial numbers that can be provided. Sorry, but after 38+ years, I have learned a couple of things. DK ASE master tech 78.
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop >Don’t worry. You pickup a lot after doing something over & over after 35-40 years. Electrical is one of my favorites because once you confirm as customer concern, you check for all electrical things and note only what you find. I stand at the bench, look at the wiring and ask; If this looses ground, this would cause all of the current problems. Their are good videos on voltage drop, it is my “Go To Diagnostics”. With digital multi meters, circuit on and current flowing, the device in a series circuit consumes all of the voltage. If 1.3 volts lower than battery available, stay on the ground side and walk backwards in the circuit until the voltage drop shows that 1.2-1.3 Vdc. Bingo! Guys used to sweat it and asked “Well the Red lead go here, that black goes there” then I stop them. If the leads are backwards, it simply shows a (-) negative symbol in front of the exact same reading! I did not have the luxury of doing brakes only, transmissions only, I had to do everything. Call backs? What is that? Right. An older shop owner showed me on a Friday night as he called the customers back after they had driven the vehicle a little. He iD himself, then ask if he drove the 1994 Red Park Ave and was he happy? People where shocked to get “That Phone Call”. And we’re tickled. At a cold, sterile dealership, I would call the customers, Hi, I work on your XXX this week at the dealer and wondered if things were fine and if the had any questions? Once again, I got your business card and you wrote on the back, check fry brakes 3K miles, change all fluids in your 4X4 in 6 months before winter comes to town? They had never got that service before and I stayed busy not getting estimates, but doing! Tell my service mgr I needed another box of 500 business cards! He asked, what are you doing with them. I write thanks on the front, circle my name, wrote “Over” on bottom and listed future services they would need. Customers had them stacked in order with a rubber band, come into the dealer as tell the writer that “Dean said I needed this done, just do it, call me when finished! I had over 3,000 customer who had been in for repair 3 times of more in the last two years!!! T-belts, fluids, brakes, adjust valves or whatever. It kept me busy! Have a good on and shout out in comments if I can help. Ok, later. DK, Omaha.
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop >Any time! I spent $150 on my first vehicle, a 1965 C10 Apache w/283 and power glide. Owned as a fuel/oil truck for a big construction company with dozer, backhoes, scrapers and the wood bed was soak with spills. The floor was perfect as GM used old growth Southern Pine. I was 12 but grew 7 inches the year before. So, 6’ 3” and had a good start on a mustache. 218k before the cable broke. Back then, drivers license had no photo, double weight glossy paper and simple said School / Farm + M Yep, good old days to me. Never got a nickel from parents because as the oldest, I found out at 14, I was adopted. Light skin, freckles and reddish light brown hair. My half brothers dark skin, curly hair and short. I haven’t spoke to any of them since 1977. I did chores for 2-3 hrs each night as they watched TV. Oh well! What’s that old saying about your can pick your friends, pick your nose but can’t pick your parents! Lol. Have a good one. I am wiring twin fans, alt, choke, fan switch and fuse / relay center on my youngest sons 81 El Co I just painted all white 4 months ago. 500 horse pony’s with 700R4 I built, he is on diff #2, broke #1. It is flawless and perfect metal bed. I got 50+ hours in stud gun pulling bed floor smooth. Stay safe! I got a 67 C10 with LS but stock height. White over copperhead metallic, son hates the color and wanted me to go short bed. I told him to paint it pink with purple poka dots when I am dead!
Great work man .. couple times when the camera inverted I caught myself asking when did this truck become passenger side drive anyway love the truck..👉👍👈
I don’t see any empty beer bottles or cigarette butts on the floor or loaded ashtrays or a can full of oily rags. Nothing! What kinda shop is this? No music either 😢.
Cool Sir! I’m using the same “American Autowire kit” very cool, hey is the rear taillight on left working? I’m sure it is now.. hey cool old truck mine is a 1963 lookin good project Sir! Great to see one into the same, love the souls of the “63” had 2 Chevy’s both old “63” Nova’s or I call them Chevy Duece or Chevy 2’s.. Cool ride , hey you seem better mechanic on engines, sounds really healthy Sir! Mine has a fresh 383 Stroker from “Hot Rod Engine Company” They are out in Washington State, beware don’t get an engine from the coast to coast deal.. They said they routinely send to the East coast, they smashed my engine 2 times trying to get it to me wrapped in plastic and cardboard, ha ha.. third time owner got involved in it.. Good mechanical they provide but can’t send an engine any distances without a smash or three, ha ha.. So, finally they got another shipping company, went from “Yellow” to using company called “XPO” They got the engine to me “Un-smashed” So you Rock Sir, keep turning the wrenches! Nice sounding engine in your truck, what is it? Do tell us about it? Probably already did, I’m a late seeing to this site. “Nice truck Sir, keep-up rolling!”
Just want to say thank you for putting your video out, I have a 1964 Chevy C10 that I am updating the wire harness on as well, I just can't find a diagram that shows me how to connect the rear tail lights, you did show in your video how the wires ran from the cab to the rear but you never showed how you connected the lights, I'm stuck maybe you can help, thank you
Cool old truck, I’ve got a “63” did you have to change electrical connector ends for your truck? I’d bought the same wire kit “exactly same kit” started the wiring of mine yesterday.. it appears that many electrical connectors have to be swapped over to newer types? Thanks in advance nice truck Sir! Love the lowering you did to it.. nice ride Sir!
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop Very cool, I’m sure it will be easier once I get into more of this wire kit, but thanks much for all you post here! Cool truck Sir, keep-um rolling! Nice, keep posting your work, it helps many I’m sure of it, you rock Sir! Nice ride, cool you got a 383 too! Putting a fresh Tremec 5 speed in mine …. Soon, got the tranny, gotta do the run-out check and fab-it up for my fresh 383. For it from a company out in Washington State.. “Hot Rod Company” don’t bother with them, valve train geometry is way off and I’m fixing the “drunk monkey’s” wrench turning on my 383 from them.. Expensive engine, and just wrong in soooo many area’s.. I’m fixing the mess.. Fresh, but not a good “build from them.” Great , but not so great.. I’ll make it right.. Ha ha, actually have the engine in my living room brought it in through the side door.. clean enough to eat off, so why not right? Ha ha.. again thanks you Rock keep going, I’m sure you will Sir, nice ride! Thanks Sir!
Nice job! What crimper tools where you using? AAW tools are expensive as Coc*ine ( I guess)Specially when you have other types of crimpers in the garage. Oh, do you have a video of your Gas tank? ( Can't find it if you have one)
Hey. I just used some old channel lock crimpers. I’m sure they make a special one. But I haven’t had any issues. Also I do not have a fuel tank video unfortunately. Thanks for watching
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop About the tank connection. I thought you connected to the bottom when using carbs. But in your case you go in from the top? Sorry for stupid questions ;) I like your channel, you are doing good!
Yeah the pick up tube is on the top on the Boyd tank. Appreciate you watching. I plan to wire my 66 gmc soon. I hope to make a much better version of this video
Wiring can be tough, but a kit like this and a video like this makes if possible for everyone!
Thanks. The American auto wire kit definitely makes it sweet
I, too, got the full harness from American Autowire for our 66 C/20. I’ve just recently started to install it. Thanks for the video!
It’s a good kit. Thanks for watching
If the roads near you are like the roads near me you'll need a bit more air in the bags! Sounds awesome!👍🇨🇦
It rides pretty good. I usually air it up pretty high when driving around on the country roads
Heard about your channel through C10 Talk. I look forward to watching more. Thank you for sharing your fab work!
Awesome, thanks for following along 👊
Boom bam biscuits! I saw you on UBT channel. And glad I did. This is the stuff I live for. New Sub!
Awesome. Appreciate you following along man 👊
Excited for the channel!! Can't wait to see what's in the future!
Thanks man. 🤘👍
Yee Haw!!! Been waiting for some videos from you!!!!
Trying to start getting with it again. Hope to have more soon 🤘
I love this truck! Great job!
Thanks 👊
Thanks for taking the time the put this video together, it adds so much more time to the work. Also like thinking of new ways to upgrade older vehicles across all systems. Great work man! 👍PS you almost scraped it on a pebble 🤣
Thanks for watching 🤘👊and you have to watch those pebbles 🤣🤣
Good video, I have the same wire Harness ,crazy thing the dash cluster ,iam installing all new Gauges ,
Thanks. It isn’t to bad once you get to moving on it. Just a time consuming process lol
Love this! Very informative. Can’t wait to see more👍
Appreciate that. Definitely a learning curve 👍
Generally with a 10SI / 12SI alternator, the larger brown wire goes to the dash bulb, then to key B+. The bulb limits current to 1/4 amp (0.25 amp) and system voltage for sensing. The second wire is dead until changing then operates a relay for the choke heater. B+ from alt, to the relays coil to ground. Key hot during crank, run passes thru 30 & 87 to choke. Key on, engine off, you don’t want the choke opening as it will be hard to start. Thermal fan switch is in coolant and provides ground for 1 or 2 relays. A 30-40 amp fuse depending on fan, to 30 & 87 as both grounds soldered and shrink tube can bolt to core support using “Star” washers that dig into paint to metal. Internal star washer goes on first, flat washer, fan ground flat, lock washer and bolt. I use dielectric grease on every terminal inside connectors plus sides and bottom of park bulbs. This keeps them from turning green with high resistance. Both washers & dielectric grease is sold in automotive at home improvement stores, 1/2 price of parts stores. Ground parts and sensors. Use Permatex white pipe & thread sealant as it will allow connection to ground. Teflon tape won’t work! The back of the alternators case is where ground is produced. To provide a complete circuit, run a 4/0 cable from threaded hole on alternator to intake or block, don’t forget intake to cab & ground terminal at HEI distributor. It is marked as metal strap bends and terminates a coil screw. Ground from battery to inner wheel house / fender, frame, block, fame to cab underneath and since it’s a truck, provide frame to bed ground to reduce voltage drop to stop, turn, reverse and tag light! Also, tail light assembly crimp socket into housing. Time may corrode this connection. Empty the socket, wire wheel and solder this connection. Using LED’s are great at 12Vdc but real low current. This increases voltage drop problems. I drill, clean, machine screw with star washer and run separate bolt to beds frame. Any place that can get wet, drippy boots, snow, car wash and humid days when temp drops overnight as dew on grass, dew on metal terminals.
Take photos is easy now, so color, face female and male, wire size is metric, circuit numbers (Since 86) GM uses same colors and circuit numbers. They are broken into cells to everything in one circuit from horns to tail lights. Location of connectors have an order as well! Engine compartment is 100 series, dash is 200, 300 at rear seats, 400 at tail lights, 500 is bumper, 600 LF door, 700 RF door and so on.
So in reverse lights, battery at top, fuse to relay/fuse box, connector gray (Photo on page 203-H) cavity A13, gray w/ black, frame to tail lights. Reverse switch, relay, fuse, connector to complete circuit when in reverse. Increase’s selling value, reduces the cost of out of town repairs, include brands, P/N’s, special notes, specs, line size, torque, wrench size and bolt spec like grade 8. Include charts for references as a good tech can and fix it cheaper with info. Printed, thumb drive or CD will make any future repair easier, faster and less money. Copy receipts that have lifetime warranty, with customer service number and serial numbers that can be provided.
Sorry, but after 38+ years, I have learned a couple of things. DK ASE master tech 78.
That is awesome. I hope to have this amount of knowledge one day 👊
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop >Don’t worry. You pickup a lot after doing something over & over after 35-40 years.
Electrical is one of my favorites because once you confirm as customer concern, you check for all electrical things and note only what you find. I stand at the bench, look at the wiring and ask; If this looses ground, this would cause all of the current problems. Their are good videos on voltage drop, it is my “Go To Diagnostics”. With digital multi meters, circuit on and current flowing, the device in a series circuit consumes all of the voltage. If 1.3 volts lower than battery available, stay on the ground side and walk backwards in the circuit until the voltage drop shows that 1.2-1.3 Vdc. Bingo!
Guys used to sweat it and asked “Well the Red lead go here, that black goes there” then I stop them. If the leads are backwards, it simply shows a (-) negative symbol in front of the exact same reading! I did not have the luxury of doing brakes only, transmissions only, I had to do everything.
Call backs? What is that? Right. An older shop owner showed me on a Friday night as he called the customers back after they had driven the vehicle a little. He iD himself, then ask if he drove the 1994 Red Park Ave and was he happy? People where shocked to get “That Phone Call”. And we’re tickled. At a cold, sterile dealership, I would call the customers, Hi, I work on your XXX this week at the dealer and wondered if things were fine and if the had any questions? Once again, I got your business card and you wrote on the back, check fry brakes 3K miles, change all fluids in your 4X4 in 6 months before winter comes to town? They had never got that service before and I stayed busy not getting estimates, but doing! Tell my service mgr I needed another box of 500 business cards! He asked, what are you doing with them. I write thanks on the front, circle my name, wrote “Over” on bottom and listed future services they would need. Customers had them stacked in order with a rubber band, come into the dealer as tell the writer that “Dean said I needed this done, just do it, call me when finished! I had over 3,000 customer who had been in for repair 3 times of more in the last two years!!! T-belts, fluids, brakes, adjust valves or whatever. It kept me busy! Have a good on and shout out in comments if I can help. Ok, later. DK, Omaha.
@@deankay4434 awesome. Thanks for the help 👊
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop >Any time! I spent $150 on my first vehicle, a 1965 C10 Apache w/283 and power glide. Owned as a fuel/oil truck for a big construction company with dozer, backhoes, scrapers and the wood bed was soak with spills. The floor was perfect as GM used old growth Southern Pine. I was 12 but grew 7 inches the year before. So, 6’ 3” and had a good start on a mustache. 218k before the cable broke. Back then, drivers license had no photo, double weight glossy paper and simple said School / Farm + M
Yep, good old days to me. Never got a nickel from parents because as the oldest, I found out at 14, I was adopted. Light skin, freckles and reddish light brown hair. My half brothers dark skin, curly hair and short. I haven’t spoke to any of them since 1977. I did chores for 2-3 hrs each night as they watched TV. Oh well! What’s that old saying about your can pick your friends, pick your nose but can’t pick your parents! Lol.
Have a good one. I am wiring twin fans, alt, choke, fan switch and fuse / relay center on my youngest sons 81 El Co I just painted all white 4 months ago. 500 horse pony’s with 700R4 I built, he is on diff #2, broke #1. It is flawless and perfect metal bed. I got 50+ hours in stud gun pulling bed floor smooth. Stay safe! I got a 67 C10 with LS but stock height. White over copperhead metallic, son hates the color and wanted me to go short bed. I told him to paint it pink with purple poka dots when I am dead!
Absolutely love this truck!
Thank you. I have another video of a full walk around 👍👍
Nice job Matt 👍
Thanks 🙏
Great work man .. couple times when the camera inverted I caught myself asking when did this truck become passenger side drive anyway love the truck..👉👍👈
Haha yeah was still primarily using the cell phone on this one.
I don’t see any empty beer bottles or cigarette butts on the floor or loaded ashtrays or a can full of oily rags. Nothing! What kinda shop is this? No music either 😢.
🤣🤣🤣 the cans are in the bucket by the door. And unfortunately TH-cam doesn't like music in the background
Love the truck!
Thanks you 👊
Cool Sir! I’m using the same “American Autowire kit” very cool, hey is the rear taillight on left working? I’m sure it is now.. hey cool old truck mine is a 1963 lookin good project Sir! Great to see one into the same, love the souls of the “63” had 2 Chevy’s both old “63” Nova’s or I call them Chevy Duece or Chevy 2’s.. Cool ride , hey you seem better mechanic on engines, sounds really healthy Sir! Mine has a fresh 383 Stroker from “Hot Rod Engine Company” They are out in Washington State, beware don’t get an engine from the coast to coast deal.. They said they routinely send to the East coast, they smashed my engine 2 times trying to get it to me wrapped in plastic and cardboard, ha ha.. third time owner got involved in it.. Good mechanical they provide but can’t send an engine any distances without a smash or three, ha ha..
So, finally they got another shipping company, went from “Yellow” to using company called “XPO” They got the engine to me “Un-smashed” So you Rock Sir, keep turning the wrenches! Nice sounding engine in your truck, what is it? Do tell us about it? Probably already did, I’m a late seeing to this site. “Nice truck Sir, keep-up rolling!”
Thanks for watching and bummer to hear about your engine. Mine is actually a 383 also.
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop Nice! 383 Stroker, looks nice sounds awesome Sir!
Just want to say thank you for putting your video out, I have a 1964 Chevy C10 that I am updating the wire harness on as well, I just can't find a diagram that shows me how to connect the rear tail lights, you did show in your video how the wires ran from the cab to the rear but you never showed how you connected the lights, I'm stuck maybe you can help, thank you
Thanks for watching. I’ll send over a link. Hopefully it helps 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=721119
i love this truck!😍
Thanks. Check out my other video on the walk around 👊
Cool truck brother
Thanks man 👊
Very educational!!
Thanks 🤘
Cool truck
Thank you 🤘👊
Another good video!
Appreciate it 🙌
What steering column did you use? To be able to use the original steering wheel.
It is just a cheap tilt column off of ebay. It's a gm style so the splines line up in the wheel
Cool old truck, I’ve got a “63” did you have to change electrical connector ends for your truck? I’d bought the same wire kit “exactly same kit” started the wiring of mine yesterday.. it appears that many electrical connectors have to be swapped over to newer types? Thanks in advance nice truck Sir! Love the lowering you did to it.. nice ride Sir!
Yes some of them have to be swapped over it seem and others will remain the same. Thanks for watching 👊🏻
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop Very cool, I’m sure it will be easier once I get into more of this wire kit, but thanks much for all you post here! Cool truck Sir, keep-um rolling! Nice, keep posting your work, it helps many I’m sure of it, you rock Sir! Nice ride, cool you got a 383 too! Putting a fresh Tremec 5 speed in mine …. Soon, got the tranny, gotta do the run-out check and fab-it up for my fresh 383. For it from a company out in Washington State.. “Hot Rod Company” don’t bother with them, valve train geometry is way off and I’m fixing the “drunk monkey’s” wrench turning on my 383 from them.. Expensive engine, and just wrong in soooo many area’s.. I’m fixing the mess.. Fresh, but not a good “build from them.” Great , but not so great.. I’ll make it right.. Ha ha, actually have the engine in my living room brought it in through the side door.. clean enough to eat off, so why not right? Ha ha.. again thanks you Rock keep going, I’m sure you will Sir, nice ride! Thanks Sir!
The wiring kit is a lot more money than most ! Worth the extra money???
For me i would say yes. But I'm not an electrician. This kit is about as easy as wiring could be in my opinion. Hope that helps
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop thks
Whats the model number on the harley light? Sweet truck!
I'm not sure on that. I'll try to look next time I'm at the shop. 🙌
1:06 Where did you get those hood supports? I have a '62 C60 that is a future project
These came from a company named self made fab. Not sure if he's still making them. Switch suspension makes some very similar 🤘
What steering column are you using ?
It was just a cheap 30 inch gm column I found on eBay. Has a little play in the tilt mechanism
Nice job! What crimper tools where you using? AAW tools are expensive as Coc*ine ( I guess)Specially when you have other types of crimpers in the garage. Oh, do you have a video of your Gas tank? ( Can't find it if you have one)
Hey. I just used some old channel lock crimpers. I’m sure they make a special one. But I haven’t had any issues. Also I do not have a fuel tank video unfortunately. Thanks for watching
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop Thanks!
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop About the tank connection. I thought you connected to the bottom when using carbs. But in your case you go in from the top? Sorry for stupid questions ;) I like your channel, you are doing good!
Yeah the pick up tube is on the top on the Boyd tank. Appreciate you watching. I plan to wire my 66 gmc soon. I hope to make a much better version of this video
@@Metal_Massacre_Fab_Shop Nice, looking forward to the episode! Here in Sweden we just got 4" of snow haha
Good deal 👌
👊🤘
How long did it take you to wire all of it up.
Little over a week of work. But that was just going out after work. The kit really makes it easy to do
We're did u get your control arm for your truck
It's a kit. Made by a company named self made fab. Not sure if he makes them anymore
That's low but at least it has good looking wheels
Thanks
😭
👍👍