@@garagemade4422 sat for 5 years, needs caliper rebuilds, carb rebuild, gas tank restore. etc.. all the fun stuff. Not great shape to most, but for a handy guy like me, it was worth the 350 bux in gas to go get it. rear wheel spokes where done, so i got a 16" seven star mag, we will see how that works out.
I’m trying to figure out how free the carburetor piston slides have to be 2 of mine went in alright 2 need a lot of pressure do yours just slide no problem or do they rely on engine vacuum? Thanks
Yes, unbolt wire and bolts. Oring on starter nose seal in Case is stuck, wiggle pull push tug spray lube, do not pry, may break soft aluminum. Slide starter forward. With stock exhaust Should come out, get new oring for reassembly
OK, liked and sub'd. I just bought a 78 GL1k. It is rough, not like the photos in the ad :) It cranks right up on the first pop, holds idle fairly well at most RPM's, but has a problem around 2k RPM. Also, on the right exhaust, there is some somewhat significant backfiring and an occasional flame when the mufflers are off. There is a slight smell of fuel in the air of the garage when I have the bike idling. Is this a carb issue? If it is, I want to try the repair myself. I watched your video and the carbs look easy enough, but what about those linkages? And what is "syncronizing"?
Thanks for the sub, I'm not sure carbs are easy. I'm crossing my fingers the bike starts. Synchronizing is where you set the throttle position for each carb. It's fairly easy to do by ear (I've only done this on my BMW, which only had 2 cylinders). The carbs aren't the easiest things to get to, but the smell of fuel kinda indicates a rich mixture. I would do the easy things first, pull the plugs and check the colour; maybe change them if they look bad. The timing chain is easy to get to just pull the radiator, bad timing will give you a miss fire. Good luck
I've not got the bike started yet, but with the correct tool it shouldn't be difficult. You connect the vacuum gauge to the inlet manifold and the balancing adjustment is also easy to access. Hopefully the bike will start in a few weeks.
I've seen videos where people have used clear tube and plastic bottles with a coloured liquid to see the difference in vacuum. There are two methods I've seen one looks safer than the other (no risk of liquid getting sucked into your carbs. The sync tool only costs €25 it might be worth the investment.
@@garagemade4422 Found them... As I wasn't the one who took the float bowls off, I asked the guy where are the float bowl screws and in that container was mixture screws !!!! ... So today I fully assembled the set and they're ready to go back on the bike... Christ, what a mission cleaning them was... 20 years it sat in a garage unused... they were full off hard gunk & corrosion... I used tiny little wire brushes in a Dremel... this engine cleaning spray that softens gunk... finishing with a pressure washer... tons of work... anyway, the came up looking beautiful... hopefully I haven't stuffed anything up.... On they go !
NO ORING UNDER THE CARB SLIDE!!! I saw in another of your video you use a 21mm float drop height. The GL school I attended in 1975 specifically said to use the 'standing float' height.
Would you know anyone that would get my Honda gold wing 1000 G L set up property I live in Hampshire uk if there is any one please contact me thanks 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
tgx for that video ..but can u do it more clear .. i mean in normal speed and whith more detl .. cuz ther is video from Randak and kost 25 Euro so u video gona be verrrry usful
Sorry about that, I find that people have a very short attention span so I have to keep the video short. I will do a follow-up video. If you have any specific questions I could try to answer them or show you more detail
u r very good and your way is very simple but if u mak it long and more clear and whith more detel about evry tbing like Engine... Carburator ..final driv.. shocks..and evry thing cuz gl 1000 is old and ther is not alot viedeo in TH-cam ... i watching u from Germany
I made a mistake with the vacuum chamber so I have to pull off the top half. I also forgot to measure the float height, I'll try to show in more detail how I do this.
Fantastic work
Brilliant work
Thank you for showing all of the steps.
No worries, I hope you found it helpful
Great detailed content - thanks! I'll be referring back to this very soon for my '78 Gold Wing build
Thanks, I hope it helps
i just got a 1977, thanks for the video!
What kind of condition is she in?
@@garagemade4422 sat for 5 years, needs caliper rebuilds, carb rebuild, gas tank restore. etc.. all the fun stuff. Not great shape to most, but for a handy guy like me, it was worth the 350 bux in gas to go get it. rear wheel spokes where done, so i got a 16" seven star mag, we will see how that works out.
FYI this kit is only on ebay now, and its up to 80 bux US
I’m trying to figure out how free the carburetor piston slides have to be 2 of mine went in alright 2 need a lot of pressure do yours just slide no problem or do they rely on engine vacuum? Thanks
Air jets are referred to the intake runner in the opposite way
I have a full dresser 78 Wing...can I remove the starter without having to pull the engine? Thanks! Great work!
I believe so
Yes, unbolt wire and bolts. Oring on starter nose seal in Case is stuck, wiggle pull push tug spray lube, do not pry, may break soft aluminum. Slide starter forward. With stock exhaust Should come out, get new oring for reassembly
OK, liked and sub'd. I just bought a 78 GL1k. It is rough, not like the photos in the ad :) It cranks right up on the first pop, holds idle fairly well at most RPM's, but has a problem around 2k RPM. Also, on the right exhaust, there is some somewhat significant backfiring and an occasional flame when the mufflers are off. There is a slight smell of fuel in the air of the garage when I have the bike idling. Is this a carb issue? If it is, I want to try the repair myself. I watched your video and the carbs look easy enough, but what about those linkages? And what is "syncronizing"?
Thanks for the sub,
I'm not sure carbs are easy. I'm crossing my fingers the bike starts.
Synchronizing is where you set the throttle position for each carb. It's fairly easy to do by ear (I've only done this on my BMW, which only had 2 cylinders). The carbs aren't the easiest things to get to, but the smell of fuel kinda indicates a rich mixture. I would do the easy things first, pull the plugs and check the colour; maybe change them if they look bad. The timing chain is easy to get to just pull the radiator, bad timing will give you a miss fire.
Good luck
No need to set the floats?
Great video. Where did you source the rebuild parts? The Randakk kit looks great but is out of stock and they don't know when they are restocking.
it's all in the description
So after rebuilding them an putting them back on the bike how hard was it to get them in sync
I've not got the bike started yet, but with the correct tool it shouldn't be difficult. You connect the vacuum gauge to the inlet manifold and the balancing adjustment is also easy to access. Hopefully the bike will start in a few weeks.
For someone who doesnt have the money to afford the tool how would they do it then?
I've seen videos where people have used clear tube and plastic bottles with a coloured liquid to see the difference in vacuum. There are two methods I've seen one looks safer than the other (no risk of liquid getting sucked into your carbs. The sync tool only costs €25 it might be worth the investment.
You put the float seat retainer in upside down brother.
Thanks for letting me know, in part 7 I've re-rebuilt the carbs. Hopefully I fixed this problem 🤞
Please let me know if I didn't.
John
We're doing an '81 model (in Australia) that has no mixture screws..... God knows how we're gunna tune it.
How many mixture screws are you missing. I've got a couple of carb bodies that I've replaced and I think they might have mixture screws in them.
@@garagemade4422 Found them... As I wasn't the one who took the float bowls off, I asked the guy where are the float bowl screws and in that container was mixture screws !!!! ... So today I fully assembled the set and they're ready to go back on the bike... Christ, what a mission cleaning them was... 20 years it sat in a garage unused... they were full off hard gunk & corrosion... I used tiny little wire brushes in a Dremel... this engine cleaning spray that softens gunk... finishing with a pressure washer... tons of work... anyway, the came up looking beautiful... hopefully I haven't stuffed anything up.... On they go !
I need a good gold wing mechanic I live Hampshire uk
NO ORING UNDER THE CARB SLIDE!!! I saw in another of your video you use a 21mm float drop height. The GL school I attended in 1975 specifically said to use the 'standing float' height.
Thanks for your comment. I hope it helps others, I used the Haynes manual as my reference.
How much would you do mine for lol
Would you know anyone that would get my Honda gold wing 1000 G L set up property I live in Hampshire uk if there is any one please contact me thanks
🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
tgx for that video ..but can u do it more clear .. i mean in normal speed and whith more detl .. cuz ther is video from Randak and kost 25 Euro so u video gona be verrrry usful
Sorry about that, I find that people have a very short attention span so I have to keep the video short. I will do a follow-up video. If you have any specific questions I could try to answer them or show you more detail
u r very good and your way is very simple but if u mak it long and more clear and whith more detel about evry tbing like Engine... Carburator ..final driv.. shocks..and evry thing cuz gl 1000 is old and ther is not alot viedeo in TH-cam ... i watching u from Germany
I made a mistake with the vacuum chamber so I have to pull off the top half. I also forgot to measure the float height, I'll try to show in more detail how I do this.
This would be a great video without the fast forward
Thanks for your comment. Maybe if my editing gets better I'll can do less time-lapse.
Learn.
To.
Pull.
Focus.
Thanks for the advice; I'm not sure my phone has that functionality,