Is it normal for these to lose charge while in storage. I had to replace the battery because the last one went dead in between uses. All three negative cables spark at the battery terminal when reconnecting with everything off. ???
No, getting a big spark when connecting the black wires to the battery of a portable power pack is NOT normal (unless something is on). To confirm, I just connected a battery to the very same XP-2260 shown in this video. It hasn't had a battery in it for some time, and the black wires did NOT spark when I connected them. Sparks mean that something is drawing significant current. To find out what it is, test for self consume (aka parasitic drain) as shown in "Backup Power Project E7 - Hazard Fraught Inverter Upgrade" th-cam.com/video/ODuI1lfU7zQ/w-d-xo.html starting at 7:50. Using the exact same HF meter shown in that video, the same XP-2260 shown in this video draws 0.00 Amps when off. I just tested it. Yours should measure the same. If it doesn't, that drain is what's killing your battery. You'll have to disconnect modules, one by one, to find out which it is...
Hi Lawrence. I had a chance to run thru the troubleshooting you suggested here. I was able to verify that my flip out plug IS in good working order. It read 123 volts at the board. I then checked the output for the charging pair and it was only putting out 3 volts. As I suspected, there is a board issue. Do you know where to source a replacement board? I called Schumacher and they do not sell replacement parts. I looked in Century tool and equip. but they do not have any available. Hopefully I can find one. The board I thought was the right one the other day is the charging board with the LED display in the front of the unit. Thanks for your help!!!
Maybe these people: www.centurytool.net/XP2260_Schumacher_Portable_Power_Source_s/76160.htm If not, then you could substitute just about any 12-15VDC, 500-750mA AC adapter like the ones that come with Schumacher-built, DieHard-brand power packs. Or, you could substitute one of these: th-cam.com/video/f54INhQuvhc/w-d-xo.html Nice part about the HF Viking www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html is that it comes with the detachable wiring harness you would need to use an external charger with the XP2260. You won't have to make one. The Viking won't overcharge a battery and when disconnected from the XP2260, you can use it to charge and/or restore boat, car, lawn tractor, motorcycle, snow blower batteries as well. I have that exact same Viking and find it very useful. Sale price is usually $30, so if it's not on sale today, it will be shortly. In the event you do find an official charger board, please consider mailing me your broken one. Its repair might make a nice Part 3. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting.
Hey @@LawrencePina, I also have one of these units that recently stopped charging but not sure what the issue is. I had noticed recently the issue with the charge port feeling loose but was still able to charge the unit to 100% it suddenly started showing a “r02” code and beeping noise under jump box function the last time I used it but cannot find any information online about what that means. Plugging it in there is no green led which lead me to believe it was a charge connection issue so I disassembled the case and used a screwdriver to push the metal springs out that engage the charging outlet prongs and it feels like new but still no green led. I watched your videos but had a different result on one of the tests. With no battery installed and the unit plugged into wall power the led is a solid green (not flashing) and I was able to verify the correct dc voltage output from the charge converter board so I feel like the electronics are good at least up to that point. The battery was placed on an independent charger but took no further charge as it was already at 100% and multimeter verified voltage at 12.8v which seems to be fine. Reassembly and testing showed same results. r02 code, no green led. Thoughts?
@@DM-yb6gnSchumacher DTC codes are listed here: www.schumacherelectric.com/troubleshooting/ Since r02 is not listed, could you possibly be looking at f02? Otherwise, your description of the symptoms seems contradictory. 1. Green LED is on solid (lit and not blinking) when the unit is plugged in to AC power with the battery disconnected. If so what voltage do you read at the disconnected battery terminals? 2. Green LED is off (not lit and not blinking) when the unit is plugged in to AC power and the battery is connected. If so, what voltage do you read across the connected battery terminals? Is it the same as the voltage you read at the output of the charger PCB? 3. Another way to go about this: Do you have any other 12V battery you could connect to the unit? If so, do you get the exact same symptoms when using a different battery? In that case, start disconnecting secondary modules. Disconnect the inverter. If that doesn't make a difference, disconnect the compressor. Turn the unit into a jump starter, only. 4. For a hopefully helpful visual wiring diagram, watch Portable Power Repair Secrets - DieHard 950 th-cam.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/w-d-xo.html Although the DieHard 950 has an external power supply, wiring through the jump start switch is similar. Hope this helps. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.
Very nice video! I have a trash-picked DieHard 1150 that won'tcharge from AC. It’s very similar to your XP2260. All the boards are Schumacher. The charger board looks identical to yours. It is labeled 2999001239 Rev 1 20130223. It has a surface mounted cylindrical fuse, T 1A 250V 374, with no continuity. I ordered a replacement. There is no visual evidence of failed components, so I'm not sure why it opened. I haven't inspected the solder joints yet. Thoughts?
I have a rescue/repair video on a DieHard 950 th-cam.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/w-d-xo.html that you might find helpful. Start watching from 15:25. As far as I know, the only difference between the two models is model 1150 has an inverter, 950 doesn't. Other than that, they should be the same. Regarding the fuse, any 1A fuse that you can solder across or (in place of) the open SMD fuse will work. They don't have to be identical. If the replacement fuse blows again, there's a short somewhere in the unit. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking!
I replaced the surface mounted fuse, T 1A 250 V 374, and now the charging circuit works. @TurkeySandwichJr, did you check for continuity across the cylindrical fuse? (not the automotive style fuses).
@@richk6827 yes unfortunately, my board mounted fuse has continuity. I was able to verify a good connection all the way from both 120v male prongs (hot and neutral), all the way to the next board mounted device (the yellow rectangular thing).
can you do a video on how to place the hose?
Is it normal for these to lose charge while in storage. I had to replace the battery because the last one went dead in between uses. All three negative cables spark at the battery terminal when reconnecting with everything off. ???
No, getting a big spark when connecting the black wires to the battery of a portable power pack is NOT normal (unless something is on). To confirm, I just connected a battery to the very same XP-2260 shown in this video. It hasn't had a battery in it for some time, and the black wires did NOT spark when I connected them. Sparks mean that something is drawing significant current. To find out what it is, test for self consume (aka parasitic drain) as shown in "Backup Power Project E7 - Hazard Fraught Inverter Upgrade" th-cam.com/video/ODuI1lfU7zQ/w-d-xo.html starting at 7:50. Using the exact same HF meter shown in that video, the same XP-2260 shown in this video draws 0.00 Amps when off. I just tested it. Yours should measure the same. If it doesn't, that drain is what's killing your battery. You'll have to disconnect modules, one by one, to find out which it is...
Hi Lawrence. I had a chance to run thru the troubleshooting you suggested here. I was able to verify that my flip out plug IS in good working order. It read 123 volts at the board. I then checked the output for the charging pair and it was only putting out 3 volts. As I suspected, there is a board issue. Do you know where to source a replacement board? I called Schumacher and they do not sell replacement parts. I looked in Century tool and equip. but they do not have any available. Hopefully I can find one. The board I thought was the right one the other day is the charging board with the LED display in the front of the unit. Thanks for your help!!!
Maybe these people: www.centurytool.net/XP2260_Schumacher_Portable_Power_Source_s/76160.htm If not, then you could substitute just about any 12-15VDC, 500-750mA AC adapter like the ones that come with Schumacher-built, DieHard-brand power packs. Or, you could substitute one of these: th-cam.com/video/f54INhQuvhc/w-d-xo.html Nice part about the HF Viking www.harborfreight.com/4-amp-fully-automatic-microprocessor-controlled-battery-chargermaintainer-63350.html is that it comes with the detachable wiring harness you would need to use an external charger with the XP2260. You won't have to make one. The Viking won't overcharge a battery and when disconnected from the XP2260, you can use it to charge and/or restore boat, car, lawn tractor, motorcycle, snow blower batteries as well. I have that exact same Viking and find it very useful. Sale price is usually $30, so if it's not on sale today, it will be shortly. In the event you do find an official charger board, please consider mailing me your broken one. Its repair might make a nice Part 3. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting.
Hey @@LawrencePina, I also have one of these units that recently stopped charging but not sure what the issue is. I had noticed recently the issue with the charge port feeling loose but was still able to charge the unit to 100% it suddenly started showing a “r02” code and beeping noise under jump box function the last time I used it but cannot find any information online about what that means. Plugging it in there is no green led which lead me to believe it was a charge connection issue so I disassembled the case and used a screwdriver to push the metal springs out that engage the charging outlet prongs and it feels like new but still no green led. I watched your videos but had a different result on one of the tests. With no battery installed and the unit plugged into wall power the led is a solid green (not flashing) and I was able to verify the correct dc voltage output from the charge converter board so I feel like the electronics are good at least up to that point. The battery was placed on an independent charger but took no further charge as it was already at 100% and multimeter verified voltage at 12.8v which seems to be fine. Reassembly and testing showed same results. r02 code, no green led. Thoughts?
@@DM-yb6gnSchumacher DTC codes are listed here: www.schumacherelectric.com/troubleshooting/ Since r02 is not listed, could you possibly be looking at f02? Otherwise, your description of the symptoms seems contradictory.
1. Green LED is on solid (lit and not blinking) when the unit is plugged in to AC power with the battery disconnected. If so what voltage do you read at the disconnected battery terminals?
2. Green LED is off (not lit and not blinking) when the unit is plugged in to AC power and the battery is connected. If so, what voltage do you read across the connected battery terminals? Is it the same as the voltage you read at the output of the charger PCB?
3. Another way to go about this: Do you have any other 12V battery you could connect to the unit? If so, do you get the exact same symptoms when using a different battery? In that case, start disconnecting secondary modules. Disconnect the inverter. If that doesn't make a difference, disconnect the compressor. Turn the unit into a jump starter, only.
4. For a hopefully helpful visual wiring diagram, watch Portable Power Repair Secrets - DieHard 950 th-cam.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/w-d-xo.html Although the DieHard 950 has an external power supply, wiring through the jump start switch is similar. Hope this helps. Please like and subscribe as it really helps the channel.
Very nice video! I have a trash-picked DieHard 1150 that won'tcharge from AC. It’s very similar to your XP2260. All the boards are Schumacher. The charger board looks identical to yours. It is labeled 2999001239 Rev 1 20130223. It has a surface mounted cylindrical fuse, T 1A 250V 374, with no continuity. I ordered a replacement. There is no visual evidence of failed components, so I'm not sure why it opened. I haven't inspected the solder joints yet. Thoughts?
I have a rescue/repair video on a DieHard 950 th-cam.com/video/g5ibI23UWCA/w-d-xo.html that you might find helpful. Start watching from 15:25. As far as I know, the only difference between the two models is model 1150 has an inverter, 950 doesn't. Other than that, they should be the same. Regarding the fuse, any 1A fuse that you can solder across or (in place of) the open SMD fuse will work. They don't have to be identical. If the replacement fuse blows again, there's a short somewhere in the unit. Hope this helps. Thanks for asking!
@@LawrencePina That was also a nice video! I would say that the DieHard 1150 is actually closer to the XP2260 than to the 950; it has a compressor.
I have a Schumacher XP2260 with that exact same circuit board that is inop. My fuse is not blown, though and I don't see any obvious failures.
I replaced the surface mounted fuse, T 1A 250 V 374, and now the charging circuit works. @TurkeySandwichJr, did you check for continuity across the cylindrical fuse? (not the automotive style fuses).
@@richk6827 yes unfortunately, my board mounted fuse has continuity. I was able to verify a good connection all the way from both 120v male prongs (hot and neutral), all the way to the next board mounted device (the yellow rectangular thing).