If you rebuild a battery pack, and the battery gauge does not work properly or at all, with no power output, then you can usually correct the problem by disconnecting the NEG and/or POS tabbing for at least 1 minute. That usually corrects the issue. Thanks for watching!
Id been repairing these for years. Usually 1 or 2 cells will go out. Ive had good luck with capacity testing the others and replacing the bad cell with a like capacity. Great video!
then you have a few cells with 100s of charge cycles,and fresh new cells with few charge cycles. better to just replace them all at the same time,save the old,good cells for other uses.
I just referred this video to a TH-camr in response to his comment. He left his electric mower battery in for 7 months and now it won't charge. The cells may have discharged so low that forcing a charge, like as done in the video he asked his question in, could make it explode. Maybe you'll get another subscriber.
If a battery goes too low, it can go into sleep mode. Some chargers will take a battery out of sleep mode. You can also charge the batteries one by one with a regular charger. I did this with a 25 battery pack that went low. I used tiny magnets from Harbor Freight to connect a 1a charger to each cell. As long as I didn't allow the batteries to get too low, it worked fine... Reduced overall amp hours, but still worked. It's worth looking into. This was a 25 battery pack and the cost of replacing the batteries would have been about $100.00. Also, some battery packs go out of balance, finding the low one and replacing it can save the pack.
Nicely presented. What necessitates shorting those those two points to reset the battery pack? Wouldn't replacing the original cells already do that? How did you discover the need to do that? I hope my questions are not too confusing. Regards and kudos to making the Earth a greener place by reducing throw away items and helping to save money.
Great Tutorial! One thing I would recommend before going and replacing the cells, and is a free fix if you have what you need: first, for context the charger won't charge a battery that is totally dead or below a certain Voltage (forgot exactly how low: 2-5v I think), so the battery will appear to be dead but the cells might be completely fine and just needs to be manually charged to get over that minimum hump for the regular charger to do its thing. There are videos showing you how you can take the battery apart in a similar way, minus the pulling the tabs/bottom off/replacing the batteries at all (you can leave the bottom on & no need for cutting/soldering/spot welding). With a volt-meter and an 18v wall charger you connect to the positive/negative correctly and use the volt-meter to charge for 10 seconds or so (adjust as needed)/disconnect/check voltage and repeat until you get to around 6v, then put it back together and the regular charger should handle the rest if the cells are still good. If you have everything you need this fix is free- try it before replacing the cells, they still might be just fine! I personally used an old 18v laptop charger, snipped the end that would normally plug into the laptop, checked which was positive/negative, labeled them and worked in silence, distraction free while being very careful, there are better ways to do it but I was working with what I had laying around. In this way I've saved 2 of our batteries once, but the second time I could only save one of them which has been good for 2-3 Years now- that's 3/4 times that this fix did the job. As I mentioned in the first sentence, there are many videos showing how to do this here on YT, a simple search should show you what I'm saying in more detail- check those before trying based on just this comment! To sum that all up simply: manually charge the batteries to get it past the minimum voltage cut-off for the charger (the charger will not charge batteries below a certain voltage or are completely dead). Once you get the batteries up to 6v or more you can put everything back together and the regular charger should pick back up and charge the batteries back to full capacity like they normally do. Hope this helps someone, but check those tutorials first! Don't just read this comment and try it!
Nice video, excellent explanation. Thank you for that. BTW I never opened a Ryobi battery pack and I'm stunned about how high the build and design quality of these are. There are some more fancy brands with higher reputation on the market not having this outstanding design and build quality, and are not even close service-friendly. I own a couple of Ryobi power tools and battery packs, some of which come to their natural end of life now. So I'll get my stuff together and refurbish these.
That *_is_* a very nice battery pack design. The individual cell holders makes replacing cells much easier. Your battery spot welder link has a few selections. Which one do you use and do you recommend that one or another one, please? I've wanted a battery spot welder for a while. And do you have a link for the metal tabbing? I don't see it listed in the Description area. I see 0.1mm x 8.0mm in the video, but no other info. I think I'd spot weld a T instead of folding over, but that's me. It will use less tabbing. Another great one, Scott. Thanks
Look for the one that you saw in the video, it's in black on that page. I use the highest setting which is number four. You can also find the tabbing on that web page link.
@@electronicsNmore Thanks, Scott. I noticed the metal tabbing on the page and that yours comes with some. That should be plenty for the little I'll need it.
0:50 Before replacing the cells, especially if it's not old, you should charge and discharge them individually, then recharge them all back to full. Then put it in the tool and run it for a while, then put it back on the charger till full. Do this 3 times. Also, a lot of modern battery packs cannot be refurbished. They have custom chips on the board and will not function if the batteries are changed.
There's a way around those battery packs. All you have to do is apply voltage using a power supply unit to the battery positive and negative terminals before removing the cells. Then charge the new cells to match closely to the voltage of the PSU and install them. Once the new cells are installed, you remove the power supply and there should not be any issue with the battery pack.
Good video as usual. What C rating or amp draw should the replacement cells have? Some 20a cells are like $3, so $15 for cells. Amazon sells 2ah knockoff batteries for the same cost, no tinkering. I have about 5 dead ryobi batteries, I hate to throw them out, but I bought the cheap knockoffs, and they have worked well now, much less than advertised capacity though.
I’ve used old Dyson cells not large capacity but quality with a good draw capability . Ps Dyson boards give out long before their cells. 🏴🇺🇸🏴
I opened up a Dyson battery pack and tried to replace the cells, however the cells did not want to fit in the same space theirs were. Too tight. Should I try and remove the plastic jacket from the battery to get just that tiny bit more of space to wiggle in the batteries? (I expect the board is just fine, the motor runs a few seconds on the current batteries, and if I add an external power source I can let it run very long as the power is not drawn from the batteries anymore). I really like the Dyson cleaner and want to fox it, they are so robust!
@@deslomeslager some Dyson are 2170 some are 18650 . The from memory, second and third one in are “ glued “ in because of the temp sensor sitting in a v shaped recess ( below the board) potted in, some care and effort is needed to remove them , but can be done . In my opinion Dyson battery’s are only good for cells once they won’t work in Dyson 🥴
@@pollywollydo Thanks for telling me. As said, I managed to get them out just fine (18650), but the new ones I have got seem to be a very tiny bit thicker though they are original 18650 Samsungs. But I do can try and use a file to take away some of the plastic, and make the batteries fit.
@@deslomeslager removing the cells that are temp’ monitored will destroy the sensor which has 2 wires back into the board so if either of those are shot I wouldn’t bother otherwise give it a go 🌝🏴🇺🇸🏴
Does the order of resoldering the balancing wires matter? The pack doesn't seem to be working after replacing the cells. I have replaced cells in other brands without having any issues. I wonder if ryobi has some kind of minimum voltage protection.
Interesting video, I always thought these batteries were sealed and not really serviceable. It just goes to show that if there's a will, there's a way. 👍👍👍 Someone would have to figure out how much work and investment they want to put into repairing these batteries if they're in good enough shape to repair. I like the spot welder. Do you use the spot welder for other things?
I did this on an 18V Ryobi battery that doesn't have any battery gauge. Everything seemed good and I charged it up to the same voltage as my original battery. But my machine doesn't start for some reason. The light goes slightly on but no rpm at all. Any suggestions?
I found what was wrong. The output voltage was 19.8V but when I checked the cells one by one, there was one (brand new) with 2.7V and all the others were correct and the same. Changed the faulty one and now it works good. 😊
That must have taken you at lest an hour for everything. Any thoughts on how to put a 18v ac adaptor instead of batteries? since I tried it on a dyson and didnt work. LOL
@@electronicsNmore Yeah, but it’s good to know the usual failure mode and how many might be good cells to use in other things, like flashlights. Thanks!
*_It's really annoying to know Ryobi (and other brands) could easily make these cells easier to access/swap but I understand the reason it's designed this way... but it doesnt mean I have to like the design. 😮😊👍🏼_*
They don't want anyone doing this operation. There are incredibly stupid people who will do incredibly stupid things and then blame and sue the company.
Ya... requiring a spot welder is where it fell apart for me. (Whose gonna buy all that stuff to rebuild one battery pack?) I don't have 10 cordless power tools that need the packs rebuilt.
Tamper proof fasteners make me laugh. Tamper resistant would be a mildly better description or easy to remove if you have even the crap Iest of driver sets.
I hope you realize that there are different types of 18650 batteries, you can not only go by the current capacity! Power tools use high discharge current type batteries. Standard discharge batteries are used for lower current devices like laptops and typically have larger capacities. Standard batteries should not be used in power tools because the higher currents will shorten their service life.
Please, the tabbing you are using is woefully inadequate to carry the 30 A required. At the very least double them up if you cannot use a nickel copper sandwich. And it is best to leave the 0 and 20 volt terminals for last.
If you rebuild a battery pack, and the battery gauge does not work properly or at all, with no power output, then you can usually correct the problem by disconnecting the NEG and/or POS tabbing for at least 1 minute. That usually corrects the issue. Thanks for watching!
Great how to video! I've got several battery packs that need repaired. Thanks again!
Glad you enjoyed the video! Looking forward to your next video
I watched this all the way through because I've seen others fail horribly trying to do this. A calm hand and a plan gets the job done 👍
Id been repairing these for years. Usually 1 or 2 cells will go out. Ive had good luck with capacity testing the others and replacing the bad cell with a like capacity. Great video!
*_Any recommendation(s) on a test tool for these 18650 (and other sizes) cells?_*
@@andyroid5028 Rolls Royce tester-charger : SkyRC MC3000 / better price lower perfs : Opus BT-C3100
Internal resistance (impedance) tester : YR1030, to compare with values on cells manufacturer's datasheets.
then you have a few cells with 100s of charge cycles,and fresh new cells with few charge cycles. better to just replace them all at the same time,save the old,good cells for other uses.
Just wanted to say - Thanks. This worked perfectly. I plan to rebuild all of mine going forward.
I just referred this video to a TH-camr in response to his comment. He left his electric mower battery in for 7 months and now it won't charge. The cells may have discharged so low that forcing a charge, like as done in the video he asked his question in, could make it explode. Maybe you'll get another subscriber.
If a battery goes too low, it can go into sleep mode. Some chargers will take a battery out of sleep mode. You can also charge the batteries one by one with a regular charger. I did this with a 25 battery pack that went low. I used tiny magnets from Harbor Freight to connect a 1a charger to each cell. As long as I didn't allow the batteries to get too low, it worked fine... Reduced overall amp hours, but still worked. It's worth looking into. This was a 25 battery pack and the cost of replacing the batteries would have been about $100.00. Also, some battery packs go out of balance, finding the low one and replacing it can save the pack.
I'll bet you developed your interests and began asking questions at a very young age. Thanks for sharing your various discoveries.
That little spot welder is very cool.
so cool
Nicely presented. What necessitates shorting those those two points to reset the battery pack? Wouldn't replacing the original cells already do that?
How did you discover the need to do that?
I hope my questions are not too confusing.
Regards and kudos to making the Earth a greener place by reducing throw away items and helping to save money.
When the battery voltage drops, or if the cells are removed, you usually need to reset the circuit. Thanks for watching
Great Tutorial! One thing I would recommend before going and replacing the cells, and is a free fix if you have what you need: first, for context the charger won't charge a battery that is totally dead or below a certain Voltage (forgot exactly how low: 2-5v I think), so the battery will appear to be dead but the cells might be completely fine and just needs to be manually charged to get over that minimum hump for the regular charger to do its thing.
There are videos showing you how you can take the battery apart in a similar way, minus the pulling the tabs/bottom off/replacing the batteries at all (you can leave the bottom on & no need for cutting/soldering/spot welding). With a volt-meter and an 18v wall charger you connect to the positive/negative correctly and use the volt-meter to charge for 10 seconds or so (adjust as needed)/disconnect/check voltage and repeat until you get to around 6v, then put it back together and the regular charger should handle the rest if the cells are still good. If you have everything you need this fix is free- try it before replacing the cells, they still might be just fine! I personally used an old 18v laptop charger, snipped the end that would normally plug into the laptop, checked which was positive/negative, labeled them and worked in silence, distraction free while being very careful, there are better ways to do it but I was working with what I had laying around. In this way I've saved 2 of our batteries once, but the second time I could only save one of them which has been good for 2-3 Years now- that's 3/4 times that this fix did the job. As I mentioned in the first sentence, there are many videos showing how to do this here on YT, a simple search should show you what I'm saying in more detail- check those before trying based on just this comment!
To sum that all up simply: manually charge the batteries to get it past the minimum voltage cut-off for the charger (the charger will not charge batteries below a certain voltage or are completely dead). Once you get the batteries up to 6v or more you can put everything back together and the regular charger should pick back up and charge the batteries back to full capacity like they normally do.
Hope this helps someone, but check those tutorials first! Don't just read this comment and try it!
Nice video, excellent explanation. Thank you for that.
BTW I never opened a Ryobi battery pack and I'm stunned about how high the build and design quality of these are.
There are some more fancy brands with higher reputation on the market not having this outstanding design and build quality, and are not even close service-friendly.
I own a couple of Ryobi power tools and battery packs, some of which come to their natural end of life now. So I'll get my stuff together and refurbish these.
Thanks for this video. i feel confident that i can do this correctly now.
and like others have said...that spot welder is super cool.
*_This is great information. Thanks brother!_*
Great video! Very clear, complete, and easy to understand.
I rebuild Ryobi, Dewalt, and Makita batteries for tools. Good video.
Is it worth it to balance the batteries before wiring up?
Superb video. To the point and yet thorough.
Thanks for sharing. The cell link doesn't work, but the battery site does. How do you know which cell to get? the options can be overwhelming.
That *_is_* a very nice battery pack design. The individual cell holders makes replacing cells much easier. Your battery spot welder link has a few selections. Which one do you use and do you recommend that one or another one, please? I've wanted a battery spot welder for a while. And do you have a link for the metal tabbing? I don't see it listed in the Description area. I see 0.1mm x 8.0mm in the video, but no other info. I think I'd spot weld a T instead of folding over, but that's me. It will use less tabbing. Another great one, Scott. Thanks
Look for the one that you saw in the video, it's in black on that page. I use the highest setting which is number four. You can also find the tabbing on that web page link.
@@electronicsNmore Thanks, Scott. I noticed the metal tabbing on the page and that yours comes with some. That should be plenty for the little I'll need it.
0:50 Before replacing the cells, especially if it's not old, you should charge and discharge them individually, then recharge them all back to full. Then put it in the tool and run it for a while, then put it back on the charger till full. Do this 3 times.
Also, a lot of modern battery packs cannot be refurbished. They have custom chips on the board and will not function if the batteries are changed.
There's a way around those battery packs. All you have to do is apply voltage using a power supply unit to the battery positive and negative terminals before removing the cells. Then charge the new cells to match closely to the voltage of the PSU and install them. Once the new cells are installed, you remove the power supply and there should not be any issue with the battery pack.
Good video as usual. What C rating or amp draw should the replacement cells have? Some 20a cells are like $3, so $15 for cells.
Amazon sells 2ah knockoff batteries for the same cost, no tinkering. I have about 5 dead ryobi batteries, I hate to throw them out, but I bought the cheap knockoffs, and they have worked well now, much less than advertised capacity though.
I’ve used old Dyson cells not large capacity but quality with a good draw capability . Ps Dyson boards give out long before their cells. 🏴🇺🇸🏴
I opened up a Dyson battery pack and tried to replace the cells, however the cells did not want to fit in the same space theirs were. Too tight. Should I try and remove the plastic jacket from the battery to get just that tiny bit more of space to wiggle in the batteries? (I expect the board is just fine, the motor runs a few seconds on the current batteries, and if I add an external power source I can let it run very long as the power is not drawn from the batteries anymore). I really like the Dyson cleaner and want to fox it, they are so robust!
@@deslomeslager some Dyson are 2170 some are 18650 . The from memory, second and third one in are “ glued “ in because of the temp sensor sitting in a v shaped recess ( below the board) potted in, some care and effort is needed to remove them , but can be done . In my opinion Dyson battery’s are only good for cells once they won’t work in Dyson 🥴
@@pollywollydo Thanks for telling me. As said, I managed to get them out just fine (18650), but the new ones I have got seem to be a very tiny bit thicker though they are original 18650 Samsungs. But I do can try and use a file to take away some of the plastic, and make the batteries fit.
@@deslomeslager removing the cells that are temp’ monitored will destroy the sensor which has 2 wires back into the board so if either of those are shot I wouldn’t bother otherwise give it a go 🌝🏴🇺🇸🏴
Does the order of resoldering the balancing wires matter? The pack doesn't seem to be working after replacing the cells. I have replaced cells in other brands without having any issues. I wonder if ryobi has some kind of minimum voltage protection.
Interesting video, I always thought these batteries were sealed and not really serviceable. It just goes to show that if there's a will, there's a way. 👍👍👍 Someone would have to figure out how much work and investment they want to put into repairing these batteries if they're in good enough shape to repair. I like the spot welder. Do you use the spot welder for other things?
Spot welder is only used for creating battery packs. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for answering my question, and I really enjoy your channel. @@electronicsNmore
Great video to start off with. I am doing a ryobi but not the hp model and it doesn't have the same reset. I have the flash and can't reaet
I’m curious do you know how to produce terra hertz frequency’s ??
I did this on an 18V Ryobi battery that doesn't have any battery gauge. Everything seemed good and I charged it up to the same voltage as my original battery. But my machine doesn't start for some reason. The light goes slightly on but no rpm at all. Any suggestions?
I found what was wrong. The output voltage was 19.8V but when I checked the cells one by one, there was one (brand new) with 2.7V and all the others were correct and the same. Changed the faulty one and now it works good. 😊
Can anyone tell me what nickel strip is suitable for a job like this need to replace the cells on the same battery thanks
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
great video,,i have lots of ryobi tools
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
interesting and informative video but I probably would just buy a new battery pack mainly because I wouldn't have the time to do this :)
That must have taken you at lest an hour for everything.
Any thoughts on how to put a 18v ac adaptor instead of batteries? since I tried it on a dyson and didnt work. LOL
Only about 45 minutes
I was hoping you’d measure the old cells so we could see if it’s only a portion of them that went bad.
It's not worth changing only a couple of cells, so I didn't bother. Usually one or two are faulty.
@@electronicsNmore Yeah, but it’s good to know the usual failure mode and how many might be good cells to use in other things, like flashlights. Thanks!
*_It's really annoying to know Ryobi (and other brands) could easily make these cells easier to access/swap but I understand the reason it's designed this way... but it doesnt mean I have to like the design. 😮😊👍🏼_*
They don't want anyone doing this operation. There are incredibly stupid people who will do incredibly stupid things and then blame and sue the company.
u need to showe the new battery packs..they r different they ur 5 to 10 yr old pack.
also Ryobi uses high quality cells too
My battery pack was only 3 years old.
Ya... requiring a spot welder is where it fell apart for me. (Whose gonna buy all that stuff to rebuild one battery pack?) I don't have 10 cordless power tools that need the packs rebuilt.
The spot welders aren't that much money if you plan on rebuilding your battery packs well into the future
@@electronicsNmorewhat brand is this spot welder?
Tamper proof fasteners make me laugh. Tamper resistant would be a mildly better description or easy to remove if you have even the crap Iest of driver sets.
Tamper*
@@shawnd567 that’s the problem with dictation on the phone. I certainly know it’s tamper, but didn’t realize the phone took it as temper. 🤷
I hope you realize that there are different types of 18650 batteries, you can not only go by the current capacity! Power tools use high discharge current type batteries. Standard discharge batteries are used for lower current devices like laptops and typically have larger capacities. Standard batteries should not be used in power tools because the higher currents will shorten their service life.
Of course I realize
Drastically shorten.,may overheat causing a 'BAD' situation... Thank You
Good point. I get my old battery packs from the home Depot recycling box, take it apart and look for good cells in the pack
Please, the tabbing you are using is woefully inadequate to carry the 30 A required. At the very least double them up if you cannot use a nickel copper sandwich. And it is best to leave the 0 and 20 volt terminals for last.
Really, most people don’t have time or tools to complete the battery pack. Just buy another OEM battery pack.
If you don’t have anything nice to say…
I normally replace my car when it runs out of gas. Why bother