Just stumbled across your channel. I like the use of a hoist very handy! Also not hacking up your original mounts is good, handy to use what you have already.
1K lbs in the rear with short radius small joint arms. 5 points of heavy wear, ujoints on CV (2x) (2) 3/4 heims on frame (1) heim on hub. 3" forward on drivetrain arc. You'll be fine for the tire size that you have now (UTV) with way more horsepower. I could you doing longer trailing arms in a year. Especially when you add 33" tires to a suburu transmission. Something will snap.
I agree with you. Not everything is ideal here but it will probably work for now. The heims are cheap enough as well as the axles to change them out as needed. Well see, if traction is really great I would love to put some longer arms on this.
My thoughts on this is I want to keep a short wheelbase and keep the weight distribution as close to it was with a rear mounted engine as possible. If I find that we have enough weight over the rear tires I would be happy to extend these arms. More travel, less axle angle like you said, a win win.
Does the fabrication get easier or harder after every beer lol? Clever using the factory bolt for the heim, do you think itll have any strength issues since all the stress is concentrated in the middle vs spread evenly over the bolt through a bushing? I feel like you made that look easier than it is scratch building suspension is no joke.
The cold snacks keep me motivated to keep working on this stuff lol. Good point about the trialing arm pivot bolt. Its still 3/4" where I machined it down so it should be okay, but yes its more of a point load than the factory setup.
A couple! I learned a lot from Joe pie years back. I also watch CEE, inheritance machining, this old tony, abom, etc. So many great machining channels out there!
Cool question. Im learning more about buggies each day. I really like this engine so I would keep that. But maybe I would keep it rear engine next time and just pay the big money for a VW trans. It makes everything so much easier. Shifter axles etc. I could buy things that way instead of making everything. But I am having fun with this. I think once it's all figured out it will be worth it. Thanks for watching!
Dude I love your videos especially on the trailing arms great work keep it up!!
Thanks 👍
This is coming together awesome! Looking forward to seeing it in action
Just stumbled across your channel.
I like the use of a hoist very handy! Also not hacking up your original mounts is good, handy to use what you have already.
Thanks! By re-using the factory pickup points it will be a lot less work if some day I change the frame to one that fits me better... Another project
Great job thanks I appreciate you time t to make video
Thanks for watching!
1K lbs in the rear with short radius small joint arms. 5 points of heavy wear, ujoints on CV (2x) (2) 3/4 heims on frame (1) heim on hub. 3" forward on drivetrain arc. You'll be fine for the tire size that you have now (UTV) with way more horsepower. I could you doing longer trailing arms in a year. Especially when you add 33" tires to a suburu transmission. Something will snap.
I agree with you. Not everything is ideal here but it will probably work for now. The heims are cheap enough as well as the axles to change them out as needed. Well see, if traction is really great I would love to put some longer arms on this.
I dig it man
hell yeah
Great fab work! That's not a Bud Light, right!
No way!
Why not make a longer and have the axel straighter, it’ll last longer and you can get bigger shocks and have a smoother ride
My thoughts on this is I want to keep a short wheelbase and keep the weight distribution as close to it was with a rear mounted engine as possible. If I find that we have enough weight over the rear tires I would be happy to extend these arms. More travel, less axle angle like you said, a win win.
Does the fabrication get easier or harder after every beer lol? Clever using the factory bolt for the heim, do you think itll have any strength issues since all the stress is concentrated in the middle vs spread evenly over the bolt through a bushing? I feel like you made that look easier than it is scratch building suspension is no joke.
The cold snacks keep me motivated to keep working on this stuff lol. Good point about the trialing arm pivot bolt. Its still 3/4" where I machined it down so it should be okay, but yes its more of a point load than the factory setup.
Very cool, are you using regular steel tubing or some special hardened tubing? I need to make a frame for a project I have.
Just regular carbon steel. .120 wall 1.25x1.25 tubing
Do you follow any hobby machinist channels? You seem fairly equipped with tooling & equipment. Curious if you follow the same people I do
A couple! I learned a lot from Joe pie years back. I also watch CEE, inheritance machining, this old tony, abom, etc. So many great machining channels out there!
What motor are you using?
Please don't roll this one. I like it
What would you do different if you built another dune buggy, and what motor and axles. Street legal ride??
Cool question. Im learning more about buggies each day. I really like this engine so I would keep that. But maybe I would keep it rear engine next time and just pay the big money for a VW trans. It makes everything so much easier. Shifter axles etc. I could buy things that way instead of making everything. But I am having fun with this. I think once it's all figured out it will be worth it. Thanks for watching!
@spankranchgarage what engine is in yours. How much you think u have in it
@@Gokywildcats11 GM LE2 1.4 turbo. The engine was cheap only 400 bucks but its everything else that costs a lot of money
Use jeep grand cheroqe front axals way better