with the help of CNC(basically cheating) dan lee is catching up to you :P! it is a true man vs machine match of the century. watching both videos every time they drop
Thanks for watching David. Being from Minnesota, I feel like Paul Bunyan, swinging my ax. And Dan Lee is the chainsaw. In the end, Dan’s CNC method will pass me. Not to mention his skill and dedicated time. I look forward to Dan passing my build, so I can learn from him at each step.
You could use a hand planer that is for end grain. It's a scraper pretty much. I used one for the fine tuning of the chines on my hydro plane. Harbor freight sells a small set for like 10 bucks. They come in handy for smaller areas like that.
Thanks. That too makes sense. I already listened to the others and completed the port side chine bottom rail with a large hand plane and a rebate plane.
I would consider using a router sled to do the shaping of the chine bottom rail. Here’s what i would attempt: 1. Glue in your oversized bottom rail 2. Install a flat 4” wide board between each rib so that the surface is flush with the top surface of both ribs 3. Create a wooden half circle from a 2x6” that is exactly like the shape of the bottom of your router(banana shape). 4. Attach this banana shape piece of wood to the bottom of your router with a glue gun 5. Your router will now be elevated about 1-3/4” off the surface because you attached the banana shaped wood to it 6. Install a LONG straight cutting bit into the router. This bit will need to be long enough to protrude below the wooden block 7. Position the router on the flat board (step 2) so that only the banana shaped wooden surface rests on the flat board 8. Slowly move the router bit into your bottom chine material and start removing the excess material 9. The whole purpose of the wooden banana shaped material is to keep your router base elevated off the chine so that the base doesn’t hit against the other existing chine material
Wow! Thank you. Everything you say makes sense. I will have to think about it. Your method will be essentially perfect, but a lot of work. And this part of the boat will be covered in planks.
Maybe you laminate it in place, as before, then saw your witness lines down on each side of the frames. Then spring a batten to connect the tops of the cuts and strike a pencil line. Then make cuts in between the frames. Then chop out the pieces and finish with a low angle block plane.
The chine appears to be a rather convoluted design, it certainly deviates from a traditional chine rail, however I would use a hand plane for the bulk removal and a rebate plane where the bottom rail meets the top rail, as you say, it wont be seen so a perfect intersection at the rails isn't critical, it is one of those jobs that take time and perhaps isn't suitable to complete with a machine, I can see issues with the router method suggested by @williammcrae3177 due to the changing shapes and angles as well as the amount of setup required, he suggests fitting a board between each frame (rib) but that wont allow for a fair curve in the rail, just my thoughts
Thank you. I actually own a rebate plane (even though I did not know it was called a rebate plane). I will try this. I am making a bit of a mess with the power planer.
Today, I did exactly as you suggested. I used my large plan and a rebate plane to finish the port side chine bottom rail. It worked really well. Thank you.
@@Polymerman Unfortunately some of the jobs in boatbuilding are best done the hard way, I have built 2 planing boats so far and hate to think how many hours of hand planing I have done as well as the many hours sanding
with the help of CNC(basically cheating) dan lee is catching up to you :P! it is a true man vs machine match of the century. watching both videos every time they drop
Thanks for watching David. Being from Minnesota, I feel like Paul Bunyan, swinging my ax. And Dan Lee is the chainsaw. In the end, Dan’s CNC method will pass me. Not to mention his skill and dedicated time.
I look forward to Dan passing my build, so I can learn from him at each step.
You could use a hand planer that is for end grain. It's a scraper pretty much. I used one for the fine tuning of the chines on my hydro plane. Harbor freight sells a small set for like 10 bucks. They come in handy for smaller areas like that.
Thanks. That too makes sense. I already listened to the others and completed the port side chine bottom rail with a large hand plane and a rebate plane.
I would consider using a router sled to do the shaping of the chine bottom rail. Here’s what i would attempt:
1. Glue in your oversized bottom rail
2. Install a flat 4” wide board between each rib so that the surface is flush with the top surface of both ribs
3. Create a wooden half circle from a 2x6” that is exactly like the shape of the bottom of your router(banana shape).
4. Attach this banana shape piece of wood to the bottom of your router with a glue gun
5. Your router will now be elevated about 1-3/4” off the surface because you attached the banana shaped wood to it
6. Install a LONG straight cutting bit into the router. This bit will need to be long enough to protrude below the wooden block
7. Position the router on the flat board (step 2) so that only the banana shaped wooden surface rests on the flat board
8. Slowly move the router bit into your bottom chine material and start removing the excess material
9. The whole purpose of the wooden banana shaped material is to keep your router base elevated off the chine so that the base doesn’t hit against the other existing chine material
Wow! Thank you.
Everything you say makes sense. I will have to think about it. Your method will be essentially perfect, but a lot of work. And this part of the boat will be covered in planks.
Maybe you laminate it in place, as before, then saw your witness lines down on each side of the frames. Then spring a batten to connect the tops of the cuts and strike a pencil line. Then make cuts in between the frames. Then chop out the pieces and finish with a low angle block plane.
I like this idea. I’d would have need easier to shape of it were not curved.
The chine appears to be a rather convoluted design, it certainly deviates from a traditional chine rail, however I would use a hand plane for the bulk removal and a rebate plane where the bottom rail meets the top rail, as you say, it wont be seen so a perfect intersection at the rails isn't critical, it is one of those jobs that take time and perhaps isn't suitable to complete with a machine, I can see issues with the router method suggested by @williammcrae3177 due to the changing shapes and angles as well as the amount of setup required, he suggests fitting a board between each frame (rib) but that wont allow for a fair curve in the rail, just my thoughts
Thank you. I actually own a rebate plane (even though I did not know it was called a rebate plane). I will try this. I am making a bit of a mess with the power planer.
Today, I did exactly as you suggested. I used my large plan and a rebate plane to finish the port side chine bottom rail. It worked really well. Thank you.
@@Polymerman Unfortunately some of the jobs in boatbuilding are best done the hard way, I have built 2 planing boats so far and hate to think how many hours of hand planing I have done as well as the many hours sanding