I'm intrigued by this hull design. The sheer clamp is a tricky piece, first off you need to start by fastening at the stem and work aft, the direction you're working is the hardest way to go, always work front to back (ask me how I know). The clamp is best made with laminations and not one solid piece, and if you must build it with a solid piece you're better off making a steam box and steam bending it. Looking forward to the finished product! Are you planning on the Ilmor power plant or something else? Located in the Twin Cities right? 3M guy I would presume by the screen name...
Hi Ted - Lots to unpack… I work in the former 3M Healthcare Business, now Solventum. I am trying to make the sheer clamp out of laminate of four 7/8” timbers. No way that I can bend and twist the full 1.75” shear clamp. And I agree with you that I need to start at the front……
@@Polymerman Roger that.. I just finished a 5 year build on a Glen-L Tahoe 21' and the (2) sheer & (3) deck clamps were spec'd at 5/8" thickness. Hopefully 7/8" doesn't crack on you! I work with the Cordova, IL plant for engineered process equipment so I made the connection...
You will need minimum 4 battens in (in 1x4 formation not 2x2) you can even do more. One layer each day. You have no clue how hard to twist and bend a piece on a small section. Even if you manage, it won't follow natural line. I tried steaming, heating, soaking. It won't do.
I’m not sure that is the simplest way to achieve the sheer clamp because the 7/8” square pieces of wood won’t make it around the front of the boat. Reach out if you’d like another option to do this easier.
it might be the camera angle, but it seems you've got some fairing issues to correct - I see lumps and bumps that need to be corrected on the frames FIRST before cutting any notches, otherwise she''ll be a lumpy girl. If the sheer clamp is wanting to crack, either your wood is too thick (or resawn wrong direction) and you need to laminate thinner pieces, OR you need to steam or soak the sheer clamp before installation. OR the drawings are in error - we've seen that before. Especially if it's from a CAD file...you'll find out that splines on the monitor and real wood are two very different things when it comes to bending moments & limits on a complex curve. Nice shoes, but no place in a woodworking shop. Good luck!
Best dressed boat builder on TH-cam - keep up the good work !
Thanks so much 😊
Love how you’re wearing your work clothes for this job. ❤
Thank you, Phil. I appreciate your watching.
looking good
I'm intrigued by this hull design. The sheer clamp is a tricky piece, first off you need to start by fastening at the stem and work aft, the direction you're working is the hardest way to go, always work front to back (ask me how I know). The clamp is best made with laminations and not one solid piece, and if you must build it with a solid piece you're better off making a steam box and steam bending it. Looking forward to the finished product! Are you planning on the Ilmor power plant or something else? Located in the Twin Cities right? 3M guy I would presume by the screen name...
Hi Ted - Lots to unpack…
I work in the former 3M Healthcare Business, now Solventum.
I am trying to make the sheer clamp out of laminate of four 7/8” timbers. No way that I can bend and twist the full 1.75” shear clamp.
And I agree with you that I need to start at the front……
@@Polymerman Roger that.. I just finished a 5 year build on a Glen-L Tahoe 21' and the (2) sheer & (3) deck clamps were spec'd at 5/8" thickness. Hopefully 7/8" doesn't crack on you! I work with the Cordova, IL plant for engineered process equipment so I made the connection...
@@tedsouhrada7095
Well hello from a fellow former 3Mer.
You should try a Tajima one-handed pull saw. It's much easier to use than the 2-handed saw for those small cuts.
Thank you, Rob. I just looked it up. I clearly need a new saw that is easier to handle.
You will need minimum 4 battens in (in 1x4 formation not 2x2) you can even do more. One layer each day. You have no clue how hard to twist and bend a piece on a small section. Even if you manage, it won't follow natural line. I tried steaming, heating, soaking. It won't do.
I will message you on Instagram. I want to understand this better.
Is it casual day in the shop? Seems you are in real job clothes!
🤣Boat building a serious work…. And I had only 30 minutes after leaving my other work.
As you say, taking the full notch out of the transom seems to leave very little of the corner.
Yeah. Dan explained that I need a different approach.
I’m not sure that is the simplest way to achieve the sheer clamp because the 7/8” square pieces of wood won’t make it around the front of the boat. Reach out if you’d like another option to do this easier.
@AndrewBerge-f3s
Hi Andrew - I would like to connect. Can you email me at bobkody@gmail.com?
Andrew - I would like to connect with you, but don’t know how. Please email me at bobkody@gmail.com
Thanks,
Bob
it might be the camera angle, but it seems you've got some fairing issues to correct - I see lumps and bumps that need to be corrected on the frames FIRST before cutting any notches, otherwise she''ll be a lumpy girl. If the sheer clamp is wanting to crack, either your wood is too thick (or resawn wrong direction) and you need to laminate thinner pieces, OR you need to steam or soak the sheer clamp before installation. OR the drawings are in error - we've seen that before. Especially if it's from a CAD file...you'll find out that splines on the monitor and real wood are two very different things when it comes to bending moments & limits on a complex curve. Nice shoes, but no place in a woodworking shop. Good luck!
Agree with all statements , except the shoes 😄
I will fit a batten to check the frames, before moving forward.
You are putting too much pressure on your saw. Hold it like you would a bird and let the teeth cut the wood as you pull it lightly through.
Thank you. I just learned the same from a friend last week.