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Thank you, Rob. Are you saying that I. Should have made several shallower cut? I do appear the advice.

@@Polymerman It does sometimes come across like you're fighting the tools. On the whole if you're applying a lot of force to a tool then it's probably not the safest way (learned from painful experience). Multiple shallow cuts is easier on you and the tool. Keep up the good work, the build looks amazing 🙂Looking forward to the next video!

Thanks for watching Tom. I appreciate your watching and comment. Please know that I also appreciate the advice of others, as I am learning throughout the process.

Thank you!

Oh yeah. I had not thought of that…

I hope so. But next I need to learn to sharpen the blades

@@Polymerman yes sharp blade makes all the difference

Mark - Thanks is for the comment / advice. Moving to the hand planes really was a great idea. And I definitely feared the reaper….

No good reason. I was just tapering a board on the band saw and that is how I cut it. It was only important that the board was tall enough to be shaped how to the frame edge.

Thank you. Question: since this stem will be covered with planking, what is the benefit of sculp wood over thickened epoxy? I had not heard of sculp wood before.

@@Polymerman it's an epoxy that hardens like wood to fill in gaps or build material up that was mistaken removed.

I really don't recommend putty for highstress applications. Unlike epoxy resin It is a wood filler, not a structural component. I also screwed up my stem by over removal. a) Apply generous amount of thickened epoxy to the area. b) Press the epoxy to the stem with a large plastic flat surface that starts and ends in undamaged sections (It will take the rolling shape of stem) . The epoxy will fill the gaps. c) When removed, you will have perfect stem fix that doesnt even need sanding. P.s add some wooddust to the filler if you don't want a white patch.

@serdarbas8016 This sounds way better than sculpwood. Especially using a plastic sheet or parchment paper to form the thickened epoxy to what is being repaired. I've tried using thickened epoxy but it didn't work out right. So I've been using sculpwoof for those small repairs. Im definitely going to write this down on the epoxy bottle as a note. I'm building a hydroplane and there is a spot. I'll use this trick on for sure.

Thank you both! I really appreciate this advice.

Thank you. I consider it more therapy than woodworking at this point. Thanks for watching. Bob

This is the most honest comment yet. Thank you. I agree. Temptress is beautiful, and will not be cheap to build. I am lucky to have a garage deep enough and to have friends who loan me tools. If you live close to Woodbury, MN… you are welcome to visit and work with me.

@@Polymerman I greatly appreciate the offer. Sadly, I live in Albuquerque, NM. As a disabled veteran I’m on a fixed income. I can’t afford it.

First.. Thank you for your service and sacrifice. I do appreciate your watching, and wish you the best. Bob

Thanks. That too makes sense. I already listened to the others and completed the port side chine bottom rail with a large hand plane and a rebate plane.

I like this idea. I’d would have need easier to shape of it were not curved.

Thank you. I actually own a rebate plane (even though I did not know it was called a rebate plane). I will try this. I am making a bit of a mess with the power planer.

Today, I did exactly as you suggested. I used my large plan and a rebate plane to finish the port side chine bottom rail. It worked really well. Thank you.

@@Polymerman Unfortunately some of the jobs in boatbuilding are best done the hard way, I have built 2 planing boats so far and hate to think how many hours of hand planing I have done as well as the many hours sanding

Wow! Thank you. Everything you say makes sense. I will have to think about it. Your method will be essentially perfect, but a lot of work. And this part of the boat will be covered in planks.

Thanks for watching David. Being from Minnesota, I feel like Paul Bunyan, swinging my ax. And Dan Lee is the chainsaw. In the end, Dan’s CNC method will pass me. Not to mention his skill and dedicated time. I look forward to Dan passing my build, so I can learn from him at each step.

So true. I spent all day yesterday cleaning the garage. Broom… Vacuum… and finally the leaf blower…

You are correct. I seriously am a beginner, taking on what I now understand to be a massive project. I am getting better and more confident with each step. It may be fun to compare Dan Lee’s Temptress build with mine. He is clearly an expert with the proper tools. Thanks for watching.

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you. I am pleased. And thanks for watching.

I am using plastic brads. I assume they are made from nylon, but not sure.

I am pleased. Thank you. I have no idea how heavy she is. I will have to ask Dan, because at some point I need to flip it over.

@@BobKodyI was also wondering about that but I was afraid to ask 😂

I am a bit afraid myself….

Thank you so much Mark. And thank you for watching. Best of luck with your workshop plans.

Hello - I purchased my wood from Forest Products Supply in St. Paul MN. To get 7/8th inch thick boards, I purchased 4/4” boards and had them plane 1/16” off each side. They called it hit or miss planing. I had them edge one edge. If you email me at bobkody@gmail.com I can connect you with a fellow boatbuilder in Michigan.

danleeboatbuilding.co.uk

Sorry. I need Dan’s help. SonI can’t give away and ruin is business.

You can purchase at DanLeeBoatbuilding in the UK.

Thank you!

Thank for watching, Bjorn. And thanks for the geography lesson. I had to look up the Faroe Islands. Looks beautiful!

Thank you. I need to put more $ into my recordings. If you have advice on audio or music, I would love to hear it.

Thank you!

Thank you Mark. The Brad nailer allows me to not purchase more clamps. I thin it will be a true game changer, when I plank the bottom.

Thank you. It will be harder, when I move past the structural components and start planking the slides of the boat… when appearance will matter.

Thank you. This is good advice… as I already broke the roller off of one bit. I am almost done with layers 2&3 of the chines. I will remember this for a future step.

I did not know that about AB marine plywood. I too have the ovals.

🤣That is a great idea.

Thank you. I have learned to stay away from the Phillips head screws. I purchased some square head, Robertson Screws, and they also do not strip.

If you like that, wait till you get to Temptress Build 33.

Thank you. This was my favorite video to make!

Hello - I would say that for small detailed work the Shaper Origin is great. It would even be great for 1-5 large parts. I must say that it was a lot of work for all of these boat frames. If you have access to a full size CNC, use it.

Thanks for being a long, loyal viewer Mark.

Thank you.

You are correct. I should only have pulled on that saw, and not pushed.

Thank you. Question- Should I home more time with no music, or just different music? I hate my own voice, so I tend to add music.

Just the sounds of the tools would be great, take a look at Kobeomusk Furniture's videos, those are really nicely done, small amount of background music but mostly just tool sounds and I'm sure folks would like more voice over, everyone hates the sound of their own voice :) Again great job on the build, building the boat is daunting enough so I can only imagine what building and videoing is like :)

Those are really good woodworking videos. I will try a few changes.

Great comment. I tell myself this a lot, and yet my American stubbornness endures.

​@@PolymermanImperial and CNC is a tough match, do the plans specify both?

Fractional measurements are just as easy.

@@DamianPenney I think they are metric, and I stupidly convert to English.

@@DamianPenney the plans are in metric. Not sure why I use imperial.

Thank you Frank. I chose the shaper because I did not have the space or $ for a CNC machine. And the outsource option was crazy expensive in the Twin Cities But please know that I spent hundreds of hours cutting out all of the parts. Outsourcing CNC can save you several months of time.