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Silly? If it wasn't attached then how did he move the valves by turning the crank...? But to answer the question...no you do not need to tighten the crank because he did not loosen the crank.
FOR ANYONE THAT IS CONFUSED, you need to adjust the rocker arm when the camshaft is not in contact with it. You can do it however you like, the only importance is the cam lobe not tensioning the valve springs. Here he demonstrated that at top dead center the cam is not compressing the valve springs in cylinders 1 and 3. This may be different from your vehicle however if you can manage to spin the motor untill you notice the valve springs on the rocker arms you are adjusting are not compressed you are good to adjust your rocker arms
The correct way to do this sequence is to Retorque the rocker arm Assembly, because it gets loose over time, and then you want to make sure you are at correct timing, Only spin the engine counter clockwise Their is a Time Marker Indicator, that points to the Pulley, for D series their is 3 notches for Ignition timing on the left hand side, The one indicator Line on the Pulley to the right is your top dead center mark, You want to like that up with the Reference pointer on the timing cover and you want to get if your camgear is pointing in the up position a lot of people have a tooth off, It's really significant And not running efficient, you can have loss of power Pre detonation due to Distributor, wear out your valve train all sorts of issues due to bad timing on these interference engines, It is key to Retorque the rocker assembly to spec first and then Adjust your valves, and also keep in mind too Older engines that have a lot of miles on them the camshaft Lobes wear out slightly due to Owner driving or just miles in general, I like to set mind slightly snug, it drive me crazy hearing valve train noise, Now my civic rungs great after you are done doing all that, It's good to set your ignition timing with a timing light but if you want to just be safe putting if you were to adjustment your valves with the correct timing that will make your car run horrible too, And possibly bend a valve, with correct timing these D series engines will last a long time I had a d serious for 3 years cars never broken down on me well engine, Good timing and adjust through 50k miles and Rod Bearings, good clutch, fluid flush, it's also good to keep your power steering rack maintenances on these 20 years old Hondas, Good fluid flush and make sure there is no play in inner and outer tie rods, and a good alignment, Your car will be driving like new
Genuinely interested due to the fact there’s no likes to this comment. Is the entirety of your above statement true? Wanting to do this myself, would rather know the right way.
Nailed it. Doing all of this to my sons 1999 coupe he won at auction. 1. So I start with crankshaft timing first? 2. Ignition timing? 3. Valve adjustment last? Is this the correct order?
@@dustinsanchez6471 well first thing id do is check the compression before anything working on a engine, and run it raise the rpm listen for knocking, that's easy way to identify that the engine needs a rebuild no point in putting money if compression and bearing worn, would I would do is turn the crank by hand by the driver side with a socket and a extension counter clockwise until the the timing marks are lined up I would look to see if it's lined up with the camshaft tdc, you might having to take the cover off 2 10mm you don't have to take the complete timing cover off the just the timing gear portion part because getting the rest of the cover off I believe you have to remove the driver side engine mount, so yeah just the top timing cover so you can see your reference mark, a lot of the times people do timing and it's off car will run, but it won't run right, the valves aren't closing at the right timing, also when tightening the belt! You tighten the the tensioner pulley 14mm or 17mm I forgot haha then you turn the crank by hand clockwise so it takes the slack from one side of the belt! It's not rocket science it's actually a pretty simple engine the design, easy to do all of that then id check ignition timing if you dont have atiming light honestly you can loosen the distributor and turn it to retard of advance the timing and you just move it until the motor sounds like its a good idle, you'll be fine, even the top dead center mark isnt the true tdc also id clean the pcv and straight pipe it after 100k the cat reallt starts to get clogged when turning the belt clockwise to get tension on the otherside of the belt should only be turn like have the tooth diameter of the camshaft on the gear any more then that youll put too much tension witch will premature wear the belt also if its too loose it can jump timing
Hello, thanks for this video, I did it as indicated in the manual and my rockers continued to make noise, after doing it like you did, my engine was perfect
My guy just clicked to start watching. Thanks so much for your time an work in doing this as I'm going to for sure need this video an knowledge for my stock rebuild in the spring. Keep up the great work! Love peace and axle grease brother ❤
there might be a sticker under your hood that specifies this. but you'd be safe with the same spec since all d series are geometrically the same with the rocker arm lengths valve angle and cam placement.
hey bro, i’m swapping a stock d16y8 cam into my engine head rn, i’m having trouble getting the rocker arms back on after getting the cam in… does my block have to be TDC in order for the rocker arm to sit flush on the head? there seems to be a huge gap between the rocker arm and head - won’t sit flush to the point where i’m able to screw it back in
I know this is an older video but I have a question. I have a D17A2, I went to replace the cam plug, but a felpro one was used so I had to unbolt the cam caps in order to get them off. After torquing everything back to spec in what I think was the right order, I appear to have lost compression and have a dead mis on cylinder 3. Do I need to adjust the valve lash on that or did I potentially just destroy the head?
Why don't you clarify that you aren't just rotating your engine 180 degrees. For every one full rotation of the crankshaft equals only 90 degrees of the camshaft. So you would need two full (360) turns of the crankshaft to set the camshaft at 180 degrees. Which visually would move the up position (TDC) of the cam sprocket to the directy down position. Correct? All you say is put your engine at 180 degrees. I think some need just a tad more explanation. Correct me if I'm wrong. Other than that, this a fantastic video. I appreciate your time.
I did a valve adjustment a couple months ago. I'm about to to a timing belt change. Do I need to readjust the valves after the timing belt change? Does it affect valve clearance? Thanks!
Good question. The timing belt just turns the camshaft, so changing the timing belt should not affect the valve lash adjustments. But it is a good time to double check since you have the valve cover off if you want to.
@@RiggsGarage I use a 9000 valve lash on the exhaust and I use a 7000 on the intake an no matter what it still Chatters like a old sewing machine so now what do I need to do to fix it because I cannot stand it
I've been looking for this! I recently purchased a 93 del sol d15b7. Have never owned a Honda before, however, I have a b16 awaiting parts for a build soon, but I need to adjust my valve lash, is there a torque spec for any of which you loosened and tightened?
Good question, I've never seen a torque spec. You really need a box end wrench to tighten it down as you hold the adjuster still with the flat head screwdriver, not sure how you'd even use a torque wrench here. I just make it good and snug, never had a problem!
According to the dealership service and repair manual for D-series engines, the locking nut should be torqued down to 13 lbs of force. Since a torque wrench could throw off your valve lash as it turns, it is best to use a wrench that keeps the adjuster notch exposed, keep the screwdriver firmly in place, give the wrench a good turn until you can't feasibly tighten it further, and then swap to a torque wrench to confirm that the locking nut is set at 13lbs of torque. It's usually better if you have to slightly tighten the nut with your torque wrench than to try to loosen it.
I tried this - when I set the clearance - all is good, but after tightening the nut, the gap increases, and I try to make sure the inner threaded part does not move. It seems like the nut lifts the center part slightly when tightening.
So you need to adapt. If the gap increases when you tighten, then set it slightly tighter than you think you need, tighten, measure, adjust as needed. Hopefully this helps!
@@RiggsGarage Yes - that is what I had to do in the end - to get consistency, I set the gap to get a good drag on the feeler gauge, but added a slight turn in before tightening nut.
I'm so glad to find this video. I've got a Honda D17A2 1.7 Liter and I have spent a month trying to get the valve lash properly set. I've been using the repair and maintenance guide that dealerships get. It indicates that both exhaust and intake settings for Cylinder 1 should be done at TDC, and then following the ignition sequence of 1-3-4-2 with a 90 degree counterclockwise turn of the cam gear (which is supposed to equate to a 180 degree turn of the engine gear down behind the tire). I've used feeler gauges and Go/No Go feeler gauges, as well as a positive response bolt to find TDC for each individual cylinder. But I just cannot seem to get the valve lash right. Tried 11 times and it's driving me batty! So, is the method of turning the camshaft at the gear at the top of the timing belt an acceptable action? It's a 1:2 ratio, so a 180 degree turn of the engine pulley is equal to 90 degrees at the cam gear. And, if you follow the ignition sequence to get TDC on each cylinder, setting the intake and exhaust at that specific cylinder as you go, will it work? And, most importantly, how much drag should you feel on your gauges? I've tried supposedly foolproof gauges which have two thicknesses on the blade: one is the desired gap clearance, and the other is a larger size outside of acceptable clearance range. You simply tighten the rocker arm bolt down until the thicker of the two clearances on the blade can't fit. And I did that exactly, but I must be some kinda gorilla to drag the blades through as hard as I do because it still resulted in a valve lash so tight that it endangered the engine. So, in light of that, can anyone liken the amount of drag you should feel on the feeler gauge blade to something else that might be known as a daily action? Pulling open a fridge door; something like that. Or, for the more mathematically minded, does anyone know how much force is required to drag the blade through the gap? In Newtons, Foot-pounds, or what have you?
Wow 11 times! That's pretty intense. Let me see if I can help you. As for turning the cam gear, are you referring to actually turning the engine with that bolt on the cam gear? I would not recommend that one I'm wondering if your multiple attempts are because you are not holding the valve lash adjustment with a screwdriver as you are tightening it, so your adjustment isn't actually getting dialed in to what you measured. Does that make sense? As for your question about how the gauge should feel as you drag it out of the gap, that's pretty hard to quantify, but I'm sitting at my desk here and I would equate it to picking up a piece of paper in between your thumb and index finger, then dragging the piece of paper out from between the thumb and index finger. Tight enough to drag some what, but not very tight. Then you have to make sure you lock in that exact setting and don't let the lash adjustment move when you tighten it down.
@@RiggsGarage Thank you for taking the time to reply. In regards to the cam gear, since it's connected to a solid camshaft, and the gear is connected to the engine pulley via the timing belt, I yanked the spark plugs so there would be less resistance in the cylinders and used a universal camshaft lever (Looks like a big lowercase y with the angled arm on a hinge. Pins screw into the side of the straight and hinged arm ends, which you then fit into the cutouts of the cam gear in order to turn it.) It doesn't run the risk of messing with the cam gear's connection to the camshaft that you would if you turned the cam gear by the nut. And the pins are on opposite sides of the cam gear nut, resulting in even pressure applied to the cam gear as it turns. So, I am not exactly turning the engine in the manner you describe, but I am still turning the cam gear and relying on the timing belt to turn the engine pulley for me rather than turning the engine pulley directly. Thus far, marks on the timing belt, cam gear, and engine pulley indicate it's all still in sync. If that's a problem, just say the word and I'll stop. In regards to not holding the screwdriver in position, I understand what you mean; that would be a big problem if I were using something like a socket wrench on the locking nuts. But I have one of those rocker arm stem adjustment tools where it's got a vertical grip, and from the bottom extends a closed wrench end that is the correct size for the locking nut; from the top of the grip extends a slot that sits directly above the wrench end. It can be used to more easily line up a screwdriver to reposition the rocker arm stem, as well as to keep the stem from drifting when tightening down the locking nut. Still, that rocker arm stem can shift a little when you tighten the lock nut seemingly no matter what you do. That's why I got into the habit of checking the valve lash before and after tightening the locking nut. And, yes, the check after always indicated a tighter valve lash. So, before tightening the locking nut, I began to loosen all of the stems by roughly 5 degrees more than what I thought it should be set to based on my feeler gauges. I tended to get the same lash measurement before and after by doing that. You've offered what is probably one of the best descriptors for the amount of drag to look for that I've ever read. Hell, it may be the ONLY descriptor too, but it's still extremely helpful. I've been exerting 10-20x that much force, like I was trying to crosscut rough hardwood boards with a dull handsaw. Rip and drag, rip and drag. I'm doing all this with no formal training and just online tutorials like this one and a Service & Repair manual that Honda provides to their dealerships. It's comprehensive, but it assumes the user already knows these little tips & tricks. So, thank you for bearing with me. Guess I am more a gorilla than a grease monkey. :) Heck, this wouldn't be a problem at all if I had an extension for my Drill-Out. I was just replacing a blown valve gasket, replacing the spark plugs while I was at it, and was almost done when one of the damn bolts that seals the valve head and valve cover sheared off suddenly, despite being well below the 8 lbs of torque indicated for their installation. And, in accord with the commands of the God Damn¹ of Automotives, what remained of the bolt was lodged so deeply in the valve head that I couldn't reach it with any of my Easy-Outs, reverse-threaded drill bits, medieval torture devices, or WMDs that will get the bolt out even if it means taking out everything in a 6 inch radius. (Thermite in a coffee can. stick it on a car hood, light up the magnesium strip, and gravity will set that puppy to work. Of course, while it works, it only works just the once. 😂) So, I had to take off the frigging rocker arm assembly. And that's when I learned certain vehicular components operate by the evil exuded by the trace amounts of Hellfire they contain. Hence this predicament. I have a better idea of how much drag we're talking about now. So, if you could get back with me on your thoughts about how I'm turning the engine, as well as answer one last question, that would be awesome: The gap clearance for the intake and exhaust each have a documented size range; I think the exhaust for mine ranges between 0.009" and 0.011", but let's assume that's the case here even if my memory is off. I've been using my gauge blade set at 0.010" to try to hit the middle of the road. But, seeing as I tend to overtighten, should I be using a feeler gauge blade that's thicker or thinner than 0.010" to try to help compensate? Thanks in advance, man. Oh, and how do you get old oil and grime off the exterior of an engine? I'm hesitant to use something as strong as a purple degreaser because I'm afraid the spray will hit nearby plastic parts, rubber hoses, or electrical wiring. But oil is still slightly acidic (I think), so I can't have it coating the exterior of the engine and eating away at it. Your engine looks to be shined beautifully. Any tips on cleaning oil, grime, and soot without damaging anything would be doing me a solid. Peace, John Motto: "End Vehicular Assault. No car deserves to be subjected to the violence and profanity when that one mother*******, c**ks******, d****pump***, *********, *******, piece of **** bolt that is shat from the pus, that lives on the crud, which is a parasite of the fungus, which grows on the scum, which is lower and worth less than snakeshit in a wagon rut, just won't come the hell out." (A bit long to put on a bumper sticker, but I'm still working on it. It's a grass roots movement. Sort of has to be since it's most relevant when the frigging car won't move! 😎) ¹(we don't call out 'God' when only divine intervention will unfuck whatever has just been fucked up that we're working on, do we? No. We yell "God Damn!" to the heavens, because we know it's the proper use-name to invoke the bastard in hopes he chooses not to be a bigger bastard. Kinda like how I thought my little brother's first name was "Stop That!" and his middle name was "Dammit!" until I turned 8.) Edited for length, which is saying something; none of it good.
As per the service manual your video is wrong. For the d16y7 it has to be at TDC for one on cam, 90⁰ cam to exhaust for cyl 3, BDC on cam for cyl 4,and 90⁰ intake side for cyl 2.
Maybe it is wrong for the y7. Based on feedback, it's correct for most or all. Perhaps there are multiple ways to do it. Let me know what you find out 👍
Thanks! Likely not valve lash, I would start diagnosis somewhere else, as simple as looking at plugs, wires, dist cap, reading codes, looking over injector wiring, IACV cleaning, and much more
Not following what you're asking, here's the breakdown, all valves are adjusted in this sequence: #1 on TDC: adjust exhaust 1&3, intake 1&2 Turn engine 180: adjust exh 2&4, intake 3&4.
@@RiggsGarage had a major brain fart earlier lol forgot all about the duration and lift the aftermarket cam has, so had to adjust them a little different.
Thanks for all the support! If you’re enjoying my videos and you would like to help out so that I can make even better videos, check out the link below! www.paypal.me/RiggsGarage
Do you need to torque drive shaft tight after that?
@@cocoslover100 I'm not following what you're saying.
Service manual said re-torque the crank shaft tight after that.
No you don't upper not attached to the crank silly
Silly? If it wasn't attached then how did he move the valves by turning the crank...? But to answer the question...no you do not need to tighten the crank because he did not loosen the crank.
FOR ANYONE THAT IS CONFUSED, you need to adjust the rocker arm when the camshaft is not in contact with it. You can do it however you like, the only importance is the cam lobe not tensioning the valve springs. Here he demonstrated that at top dead center the cam is not compressing the valve springs in cylinders 1 and 3. This may be different from your vehicle however if you can manage to spin the motor untill you notice the valve springs on the rocker arms you are adjusting are not compressed you are good to adjust your rocker arms
Yes yes 👍👍
Precisely good sir
The correct way to do this sequence is to Retorque the rocker arm Assembly, because it gets loose over time, and then you want to make sure you are at correct timing, Only spin the engine counter clockwise Their is a Time Marker Indicator, that points to the Pulley, for D series their is 3 notches for Ignition timing on the left hand side, The one indicator Line on the Pulley to the right is your top dead center mark, You want to like that up with the Reference pointer on the timing cover and you want to get if your camgear is pointing in the up position a lot of people have a tooth off, It's really significant And not running efficient, you can have loss of power Pre detonation due to Distributor, wear out your valve train all sorts of issues due to bad timing on these interference engines, It is key to Retorque the rocker assembly to spec first and then Adjust your valves, and also keep in mind too Older engines that have a lot of miles on them the camshaft Lobes wear out slightly due to Owner driving or just miles in general, I like to set mind slightly snug, it drive me crazy hearing valve train noise, Now my civic rungs great after you are done doing all that, It's good to set your ignition timing with a timing light but if you want to just be safe putting if you were to adjustment your valves with the correct timing that will make your car run horrible too, And possibly bend a valve, with correct timing these D series engines will last a long time I had a d serious for 3 years cars never broken down on me well engine, Good timing and adjust through 50k miles and Rod Bearings, good clutch, fluid flush, it's also good to keep your power steering rack maintenances on these 20 years old Hondas, Good fluid flush and make sure there is no play in inner and outer tie rods, and a good alignment, Your car will be driving like new
Genuinely interested due to the fact there’s no likes to this comment. Is the entirety of your above statement true? Wanting to do this myself, would rather know the right way.
Is correct
Nailed it. Doing all of this to my sons 1999 coupe he won at auction.
1. So I start with crankshaft timing first?
2. Ignition timing?
3. Valve adjustment last?
Is this the correct order?
@@dustinsanchez6471 well first thing id do is check the compression before anything working on a engine, and run it raise the rpm listen for knocking, that's easy way to identify that the engine needs a rebuild no point in putting money if compression and bearing worn, would I would do is turn the crank by hand by the driver side with a socket and a extension counter clockwise until the the timing marks are lined up I would look to see if it's lined up with the camshaft tdc, you might having to take the cover off 2 10mm you don't have to take the complete timing cover off the just the timing gear portion part because getting the rest of the cover off I believe you have to remove the driver side engine mount, so yeah just the top timing cover so you can see your reference mark, a lot of the times people do timing and it's off car will run, but it won't run right, the valves aren't closing at the right timing, also when tightening the belt! You tighten the the tensioner pulley 14mm or 17mm I forgot haha then you turn the crank by hand clockwise so it takes the slack from one side of the belt! It's not rocket science it's actually a pretty simple engine the design, easy to do all of that then id check ignition timing if you dont have atiming light honestly you can loosen the distributor and turn it to retard of advance the timing and you just move it until the motor sounds like its a good idle, you'll be fine, even the top dead center mark isnt the true tdc also id clean the pcv and straight pipe it after 100k the cat reallt starts to get clogged when turning the belt clockwise to get tension on the otherside of the belt should only be turn like have the tooth diameter of the camshaft on the gear any more then that youll put too much tension witch will premature wear the belt also if its too loose it can jump timing
Hello, thanks for this video, I did it as indicated in the manual and my rockers continued to make noise, after doing it like you did, my engine was perfect
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching
Thanks for this good video. It’s quick, clear, and straight to the point. 👍
You're welcome, thank you for watching!
This is a really detailed and well explained video. Thank you!
thank you for this video! exactly what I was looking for. keep up the good videos
Great to hear, appreciate the comment!
Great video series on the civic so far
Thanks Denny!
My guy just clicked to start watching. Thanks so much for your time an work in doing this as I'm going to for sure need this video an knowledge for my stock rebuild in the spring. Keep up the great work!
Love peace and axle grease brother ❤
Hey thanks for watching! I just cut this out of a bunch of other footage I did of the Honda engine work and thought some people would really use it.
he is so wrong on what he is saying and doing.
@@declanosbourne62 why?? Explain plz
Just did this by following your video. All the clearances were pretty loose so I got them tightened. I guess I’ll see if I notice a difference
Good deal. How does it sound?
@@RiggsGarage sounds good. Ive driven about 300 miles and everything seems good.
Please i want to know if in my engine d15y3 the same clearence
Intake 0.18mm
Ex 0.23mm
Thanks in advance
there might be a sticker under your hood that specifies this. but you'd be safe with the same spec since all d series are geometrically the same with the rocker arm lengths valve angle and cam placement.
hey bro, i’m swapping a stock d16y8 cam into my engine head rn,
i’m having trouble getting the rocker arms back on after getting the cam in…
does my block have to be TDC in order for the rocker arm to sit flush on the head?
there seems to be a huge gap between the rocker arm and head - won’t sit flush to the point where i’m able to screw it back in
I know this is an older video but I have a question.
I have a D17A2, I went to replace the cam plug, but a felpro one was used so I had to unbolt the cam caps in order to get them off. After torquing everything back to spec in what I think was the right order, I appear to have lost compression and have a dead mis on cylinder 3. Do I need to adjust the valve lash on that or did I potentially just destroy the head?
Remember not to have it in gear ! If manual car
Makes sense 😂
Very simple, great how to!
Thanks!
Why don't you clarify that you aren't just rotating your engine 180 degrees. For every one full rotation of the crankshaft equals only 90 degrees of the camshaft. So you would need two full (360) turns of the crankshaft to set the camshaft at 180 degrees. Which visually would move the up position (TDC) of the cam sprocket to the directy down position. Correct? All you say is put your engine at 180 degrees. I think some need just a tad more explanation. Correct me if I'm wrong. Other than that, this a fantastic video. I appreciate your time.
Rotating the crank 360° will rotate the cam 180°.
Cam will do a full rotation with 2 rotations of the crank.
@@patrickstarthemanjr4457 yes, thanks for the correction
Great work
Watching from Australia 🇦🇺
Thank you! It's fun to hear from people far away from Missouri, USA 😀
You no longer need to adjust the camgear when adjusting 2 and 4?
This doesn't include the rest of valves after rotating the crank 180, I believe.
Would this same method work for D17 ? Will be doing mine on Thursday
I did a valve adjustment a couple months ago. I'm about to to a timing belt change. Do I need to readjust the valves after the timing belt change? Does it affect valve clearance? Thanks!
Good question. The timing belt just turns the camshaft, so changing the timing belt should not affect the valve lash adjustments. But it is a good time to double check since you have the valve cover off if you want to.
When I put mine on top dead center I cannot get a feeler gauge in cylinder 1 or cylinder 3 but I can in cylinder 2 and 4
It sounds like you need to rotate it 180° more to get one and three
@@RiggsGarage I did I finely got it. Still has a little chatter but a lot better than it was
@@RiggsGarage I use a 9000 valve lash on the exhaust and I use a 7000 on the intake an no matter what it still Chatters like a old sewing machine so now what do I need to do to fix it because I cannot stand it
I've been looking for this! I recently purchased a 93 del sol d15b7. Have never owned a Honda before, however, I have a b16 awaiting parts for a build soon, but I need to adjust my valve lash, is there a torque spec for any of which you loosened and tightened?
Good question, I've never seen a torque spec. You really need a box end wrench to tighten it down as you hold the adjuster still with the flat head screwdriver, not sure how you'd even use a torque wrench here. I just make it good and snug, never had a problem!
Hope it went well! I'm going to be doing the same thing to my 93 Sol this upcoming weekend
According to the dealership service and repair manual for D-series engines, the locking nut should be torqued down to 13 lbs of force. Since a torque wrench could throw off your valve lash as it turns, it is best to use a wrench that keeps the adjuster notch exposed, keep the screwdriver firmly in place, give the wrench a good turn until you can't feasibly tighten it further, and then swap to a torque wrench to confirm that the locking nut is set at 13lbs of torque. It's usually better if you have to slightly tighten the nut with your torque wrench than to try to loosen it.
I tried this - when I set the clearance - all is good, but after tightening the nut, the gap increases, and I try to make sure the inner threaded part does not move. It seems like the nut lifts the center part slightly when tightening.
So you need to adapt. If the gap increases when you tighten, then set it slightly tighter than you think you need, tighten, measure, adjust as needed. Hopefully this helps!
@@RiggsGarage Yes - that is what I had to do in the end - to get consistency, I set the gap to get a good drag on the feeler gauge, but added a slight turn in before tightening nut.
I'm so glad to find this video. I've got a Honda D17A2 1.7 Liter and I have spent a month trying to get the valve lash properly set. I've been using the repair and maintenance guide that dealerships get. It indicates that both exhaust and intake settings for Cylinder 1 should be done at TDC, and then following the ignition sequence of 1-3-4-2 with a 90 degree counterclockwise turn of the cam gear (which is supposed to equate to a 180 degree turn of the engine gear down behind the tire).
I've used feeler gauges and Go/No Go feeler gauges, as well as a positive response bolt to find TDC for each individual cylinder. But I just cannot seem to get the valve lash right. Tried 11 times and it's driving me batty!
So, is the method of turning the camshaft at the gear at the top of the timing belt an acceptable action? It's a 1:2 ratio, so a 180 degree turn of the engine pulley is equal to 90 degrees at the cam gear. And, if you follow the ignition sequence to get TDC on each cylinder, setting the intake and exhaust at that specific cylinder as you go, will it work?
And, most importantly, how much drag should you feel on your gauges? I've tried supposedly foolproof gauges which have two thicknesses on the blade: one is the desired gap clearance, and the other is a larger size outside of acceptable clearance range. You simply tighten the rocker arm bolt down until the thicker of the two clearances on the blade can't fit. And I did that exactly, but I must be some kinda gorilla to drag the blades through as hard as I do because it still resulted in a valve lash so tight that it endangered the engine.
So, in light of that, can anyone liken the amount of drag you should feel on the feeler gauge blade to something else that might be known as a daily action? Pulling open a fridge door; something like that. Or, for the more mathematically minded, does anyone know how much force is required to drag the blade through the gap? In Newtons, Foot-pounds, or what have you?
Wow 11 times! That's pretty intense. Let me see if I can help you.
As for turning the cam gear, are you referring to actually turning the engine with that bolt on the cam gear? I would not recommend that one
I'm wondering if your multiple attempts are because you are not holding the valve lash adjustment with a screwdriver as you are tightening it, so your adjustment isn't actually getting dialed in to what you measured. Does that make sense?
As for your question about how the gauge should feel as you drag it out of the gap, that's pretty hard to quantify, but I'm sitting at my desk here and I would equate it to picking up a piece of paper in between your thumb and index finger, then dragging the piece of paper out from between the thumb and index finger. Tight enough to drag some what, but not very tight. Then you have to make sure you lock in that exact setting and don't let the lash adjustment move when you tighten it down.
@@RiggsGarage Thank you for taking the time to reply. In regards to the cam gear, since it's connected to a solid camshaft, and the gear is connected to the engine pulley via the timing belt, I yanked the spark plugs so there would be less resistance in the cylinders and used a universal camshaft lever (Looks like a big lowercase y with the angled arm on a hinge. Pins screw into the side of the straight and hinged arm ends, which you then fit into the cutouts of the cam gear in order to turn it.) It doesn't run the risk of messing with the cam gear's connection to the camshaft that you would if you turned the cam gear by the nut. And the pins are on opposite sides of the cam gear nut, resulting in even pressure applied to the cam gear as it turns. So, I am not exactly turning the engine in the manner you describe, but I am still turning the cam gear and relying on the timing belt to turn the engine pulley for me rather than turning the engine pulley directly. Thus far, marks on the timing belt, cam gear, and engine pulley indicate it's all still in sync.
If that's a problem, just say the word and I'll stop.
In regards to not holding the screwdriver in position, I understand what you mean; that would be a big problem if I were using something like a socket wrench on the locking nuts. But I have one of those rocker arm stem adjustment tools where it's got a vertical grip, and from the bottom extends a closed wrench end that is the correct size for the locking nut; from the top of the grip extends a slot that sits directly above the wrench end. It can be used to more easily line up a screwdriver to reposition the rocker arm stem, as well as to keep the stem from drifting when tightening down the locking nut. Still, that rocker arm stem can shift a little when you tighten the lock nut seemingly no matter what you do. That's why I got into the habit of checking the valve lash before and after tightening the locking nut. And, yes, the check after always indicated a tighter valve lash. So, before tightening the locking nut, I began to loosen all of the stems by roughly 5 degrees more than what I thought it should be set to based on my feeler gauges. I tended to get the same lash measurement before and after by doing that.
You've offered what is probably one of the best descriptors for the amount of drag to look for that I've ever read. Hell, it may be the ONLY descriptor too, but it's still extremely helpful. I've been exerting 10-20x that much force, like I was trying to crosscut rough hardwood boards with a dull handsaw. Rip and drag, rip and drag. I'm doing all this with no formal training and just online tutorials like this one and a Service & Repair manual that Honda provides to their dealerships. It's comprehensive, but it assumes the user already knows these little tips & tricks. So, thank you for bearing with me.
Guess I am more a gorilla than a grease monkey. :)
Heck, this wouldn't be a problem at all if I had an extension for my Drill-Out. I was just replacing a blown valve gasket, replacing the spark plugs while I was at it, and was almost done when one of the damn bolts that seals the valve head and valve cover sheared off suddenly, despite being well below the 8 lbs of torque indicated for their installation. And, in accord with the commands of the God Damn¹ of Automotives, what remained of the bolt was lodged so deeply in the valve head that I couldn't reach it with any of my Easy-Outs, reverse-threaded drill bits, medieval torture devices, or WMDs that will get the bolt out even if it means taking out everything in a 6 inch radius. (Thermite in a coffee can. stick it on a car hood, light up the magnesium strip, and gravity will set that puppy to work. Of course, while it works, it only works just the once. 😂) So, I had to take off the frigging rocker arm assembly. And that's when I learned certain vehicular components operate by the evil exuded by the trace amounts of Hellfire they contain. Hence this predicament.
I have a better idea of how much drag we're talking about now. So, if you could get back with me on your thoughts about how I'm turning the engine, as well as answer one last question, that would be awesome: The gap clearance for the intake and exhaust each have a documented size range; I think the exhaust for mine ranges between 0.009" and 0.011", but let's assume that's the case here even if my memory is off. I've been using my gauge blade set at 0.010" to try to hit the middle of the road. But, seeing as I tend to overtighten, should I be using a feeler gauge blade that's thicker or thinner than 0.010" to try to help compensate?
Thanks in advance, man. Oh, and how do you get old oil and grime off the exterior of an engine? I'm hesitant to use something as strong as a purple degreaser because I'm afraid the spray will hit nearby plastic parts, rubber hoses, or electrical wiring. But oil is still slightly acidic (I think), so I can't have it coating the exterior of the engine and eating away at it. Your engine looks to be shined beautifully. Any tips on cleaning oil, grime, and soot without damaging anything would be doing me a solid.
Peace,
John
Motto: "End Vehicular Assault. No car deserves to be subjected to the violence and profanity when that one mother*******, c**ks******, d****pump***, *********, *******, piece of **** bolt that is shat from the pus, that lives on the crud, which is a parasite of the fungus, which grows on the scum, which is lower and worth less than snakeshit in a wagon rut, just won't come the hell out."
(A bit long to put on a bumper sticker, but I'm still working on it. It's a grass roots movement. Sort of has to be since it's most relevant when the frigging car won't move! 😎)
¹(we don't call out 'God' when only divine intervention will unfuck whatever has just been fucked up that we're working on, do we? No. We yell "God Damn!" to the heavens, because we know it's the proper use-name to invoke the bastard in hopes he chooses not to be a bigger bastard. Kinda like how I thought my little brother's first name was "Stop That!" and his middle name was "Dammit!" until I turned 8.)
Edited for length, which is saying something; none of it good.
does the engine should be cold to do it?
or after driving let it cool off a little?
Let it cool off a bit, under 100 degrees is what one manual says
@@RiggsGarage thank you 🙏🏽
Would it vary if the head was fully built?
What does fully built mean to you?
@@RiggsGarage it’s a y8 head with super tech valves and retainers, BC valve Springs and a Stage 2 BC cam
@@trevorsimmons6214 I'm about to do similar, not sure if lash changes. I'd check with cam/spring manufacturer and see if they specify
Hem man they forms online say to do it different bc of the firing order
Do that then, multiple ways to do it. Thanks for watching!
honda civic sh4 same gauge 0.23mm...please help me
Thank you for this great guide
Appreciate you watching, have a a good one!
helped alot thanks !!
Thanks for watching!
As per the service manual your video is wrong. For the d16y7 it has to be at TDC for one on cam, 90⁰ cam to exhaust for cyl 3, BDC on cam for cyl 4,and 90⁰ intake side for cyl 2.
Maybe it is wrong for the y7. Based on feedback, it's correct for most or all. Perhaps there are multiple ways to do it. Let me know what you find out 👍
That's what it says in my service manual for D16Y8 as well. But I wouldn't be surprised if his method works.
Could this being off cause the car to hesitate and run rough upon acceleration? Nice video by the way!
Thanks! Likely not valve lash, I would start diagnosis somewhere else, as simple as looking at plugs, wires, dist cap, reading codes, looking over injector wiring, IACV cleaning, and much more
Does this goes for all the car
Just D series Honda
My Chilton's manual not only describes a very different procedure but also specs for for valve lash. Irritating.
Bottom comment is correct
What if the marks don't move after 3 revolutions counter clockwise?
Adjusting two sides of valves on the same engine time? 🤔🤔 that engine haae 4 times not two.
Not following what you're asking, here's the breakdown, all valves are adjusted in this sequence:
#1 on TDC: adjust exhaust 1&3, intake 1&2
Turn engine 180: adjust exh 2&4, intake 3&4.
This is new to me. So that is for that engine only? I am learning.
@@javierestrada6927 it will work for any d series Honda as far as I know. Let me know if you have questions
This is also for d15z6? Thanks a lot!
Should be as long as firing order is 1 3 4 2 👍
This stuff is so aggrevating lol my motor is perfectly in time, put it at TDC and cylinder 1 is adjustable and cylinder 3 is compressing lol
👀
@@RiggsGarage had a major brain fart earlier lol forgot all about the duration and lift the aftermarket cam has, so had to adjust them a little different.
hu same adjusters as my toy crown m2
Will this help with ticking
Yes, the upper end ticking that's from valves that need to be adjusted.
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Jolly good lol
😅😊😊
You can do it 💪
19mm socket for crank bolt on d17
Would this same method work for D17 ? Will be doing mine on Thursday
Not sure, I would recommend a specific guide for that engine honestly