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hey i need some help

Thanks. That looks doable. Saves alot of time not taking all that other stuff off. like in the first video I watched. Much Appreciated. I have no reason to watch another one. Great Job!!!

First I'm gonna plug this in though. Classic guy move

Can a mechanic make the light come on intentionally?

Didn't work

Thanks for the tip. I would like swap for b18c, but is a lot money comparing with mini me 😂. I'm looking for a good refurbished. $ 750 😢 Lets see what i can do. Thanks again. 👍🏻

Awesome! Now I know exactly what my mechanic will do to my GF's car. Subbed!

That was a really nice paint job considering the cheap gun and narrow spray pattern. I'm impressed. Do you recall how long it took until they were dry enough to handle? Oddly, that smoke gray is the same paint I used on my back porch! I'll use some hardener next time, and maybe the Japan dryer as well.

I like odyssey’s I’ll buy it

I am a 70 year old Mopar guy, and I am very impressed with this young man's knowledge! I am now a subscriber!

You really don't need a special funnel...just get one that has the spout that fits snug into the radiator opening. I just did this on a 2002 honda that had a small head gasket leak and it continued to bubble. Used K-seal and it sealed it up, no more bubbles.

Code disappears after turning the car off. And code reader does not see any code. But driving after a while VSA light comes out. Code reader specifically says I should not put reader when car is running. What should I do?

Just did a radiator job on my 2001 Honda Civic. This video really helped me understand how to bleed it (since it doesn't have a bleeder valve).

Great idea, I was at a loss until this!

mines showing 1.22 lol When i get home Ill try this and hopefully it will change, thanks

Have finished this work today - kinda pain in the ass job, thanks for the video. 2 major tricks to improve the things you have shown : 1. take off the heat cover before taking off the fan, it’s gonna be much easier and you won’t dent the radiator. 2. take off the left hose that goes right under the alternator, this third bolt of the alternator will be much more accessible. And the thing I have spent quite some time on is tensioner - not sure how it should be done in the proper way, but once the tension is released it’s not possible to get the wrench out of it, the wrench is long and it was pushing into the front, so I have put some wood under the tensioner to take off the wrench out of it. Took two days and about 9 hours of work.

I got my hondata installed the other day with my d16, I could see this being very nice for engine swaps.

Yep, you also decided to just cut the metal pipe part of the line. (I just did this replacement last week) I used a mini stick-style hacksaw. Also, that lower clip, that holds the rubber bushing, you can just bend it up slightly to remove the bushing.

Thank you 🙏

Great video! How long should I run her for because I’ve had her going for 15 mins now and the bubbles are free and far between but still coming up

This video was very helpful. Was able to replace my alternator with no issues!

Your face is... invading.

Tomorrow I'm gonna try to tackle replacing both my prizm handles. Driver & passenger. I'm a chick but this looks simple enough 4 me 😊 thank you.

Thank you for the Sawzall tip!🙌🏽

I've had a P2646 on my 2010 Acura TL for the past 5+ years. I clear the code and just keep the RPM's down below maybe 4500-5k and its fine. The car never goes into limp mode, and runs perfectly fine. Since then I've changed the oil when its due (probably 7-8 times now), never any sludge issues, and its never run low on oil. A month ago the car threw a "Check VSA system" light on my dash, and the P2646 code came up in the back ground, but the check engine light never came on with it. That being said, I cant clear the VSA light or the P2646 code now.. Since the beginning of the rocker arm code issue started, Ive change the VVT solenoid assembly 3 times (new oil pressure sensor, screen and oring came with it every time with a factory Keihin part), and tried to change just the sensor once separately. Every time I could pull the car out, go down the road, let it rev and the P2646 code gets thrown every time.. I dont know what else to do. My car is now up for inspection next month, theres no check engine light, but the P2646 code comes up when its checked from the OBD2 which will fail me. What gives?

My car exploded when I followed your instructions. What went wrong?

Excellent video brother… I’m currently stuck !! Ac line bracket next to radiator fan has little to no play … can’t slide alternator through..

I have read mixed things on the forums about d16z7 NOT working with the obd0 ecu as the teeth are different, and even if the wiring is identical/correct, it will still not function properly. My curiosity is if this did indeed work for you? I would love to be able to run the d16z7 dizzy on the d16z7 head that will be installed on the obd0 (pm6 ecu) d15b7 block. thank you for your input friend!

Thank you you made it look so easy. Besides taking the top off they had me going up to the wheel the first one I watched now it looks simple. I could've done that right after my back surgery instead of waiting so long.

Don’t know if you still look at this video but what would cause a massive leak where the flare screw goes at the bottom? Bought a new line and just leaked everywhere

Five Stars Bro!! I watched a few videos on the 3.5 liter and I ended up doing it pretty much like you showed except I unplugged the harness to the AC compressor and I removed the 3 bolts on the manifold heat shield and slid it to the right for more visibility/clearance. I had about 4 hours in it give or take. Thank you for the insight!

Great tips, thanks!

I use a harbor frieght purple spray gun i just eye ball it when i mixs the paint with acetone im pretty new to this but i wonder whats making my paint come out all like splattering out how can i get like a fine mist where the paint comes out smooth .

Called up modern driveline and they confirmed. Looks like my transmission is coming out 😞

Thanks for sharing .. this helps me out alot. 😊

Might as well replace the rain rail.

Thanks for teaching me to eat the protectective coating off my brand new rotor with brake cleaner.😡

What a hack job 😮

Thanks for the video. I ordered the replacement struts from Subaru and they didn't come with new ball stubs. But it was easy to remove them from the old struts with a flathead screwdriver and reuse them. Whew! There's a metal retaining band that you can lift from the back and then it is released. Also I found that a stepladder worked really well to prop up the tailgate. Mine was the perfect height for this job.

Will this swap also work on the Mustang II cars? Thank you for the video.

Thanks. Helped us alot

Another tip if your tensioner doesn’t have the 19mm bolt bracket to release the tension. You can use a 14mm and put it directly on the same tensioner (the top one) and release the tension. I had the same problem on mine but it works the same way. Also if you end up driving your alternator to failure where it starts smoking make sure your connections don’t get fried because it is possible for it to melt the wiring on the harness. Taking the alternator out is the most time consuming part, just take your time and trust the process. I hope this helps anyone with the same problems I ran into.

Excellent video

cool truck got your next project 73 couger been sleepning 35 year

Thank you for my car running great

Thanks

I did a valve adjustment a couple months ago. I'm about to to a timing belt change. Do I need to readjust the valves after the timing belt change? Does it affect valve clearance? Thanks!

I love those street freaks.

Thank you man! Now it runs, but the battery light is still on, is yours still on?

I did not see at what point you put the belt back on the alternator, was it after you got the alternator back in and before you start putting the fans back in?