God dammit bacon ninja you need to keep eating bacon bacon is the way to do it. The hair needs to be more greasy it needs to be longer and we need to see some more bacon on this channel.
Where all the other fpv youtubers go…Burnoutville. I’ve said it for years especially the 10 years I’ve been in this hobby is never turn your hobbies into jobs…
MG 8309 is a Conformal Coating Remover. So if you were overzealous with the conformal application or coated your barometer, you can most definitely reverse what you did
just got done Conformal coating my winter gear. been doing it since 2013. I like to put little heat sinks on my VTX's after coating them. I've had a couple over heat after Conformal coating.
Great video! I've coated over 200 quads, and I agree with all this good advice, except for the "truly waterproof" bit. Ive found with MG 422C you really need 3-4 coats to waterproof, with 1 or 2 it's still "light duty" it's super easy to rework, because you can solder right through it. Light duty means your electronics will probably survive, but in a light rain you'll eventually get waterlogged. With heavy duty coating, you'll completely encase the boards. Worry free isn't good to solder through, but you can scrape it back with a fingernail and then solder 👌 it takes about an hour to dry, but only needs one coat. If you want to seal ports properly, put in a silicone plug and carefully coat the port while it is plugged, when you need betaflight, just peel it off and recoat when you're replugged. Warm PC Desktop exhaust dryer FTW, the editing actually dries the drone 👌 great video 🙌
This worry free stuff is cool lol it makes my esc and fc look like professionally waterproofed electronics just in the way it makes that cool rubbery force field around it. Sure was clean and shiny looking before I got impatient and went for an early fly 😂 now I got that matte desert tan finish on my stack. I basically gave my stack the FPV equivalent of a tar and feather punishment 😂🤦♂️
I coated my 3.5" Grinderino with FPV Worry Free, easy enough to apply, haven't had an issue flying in rain or through water fountains. Coated my 5" Demibot with Flywoo X30 Superhydrophobic spray and it works just as well but even easier to apply and work with! Love the choices we have.
GREAT JOB! I've literally been putting off doing this on my quads for years! Every video I watched before yours was ok, but not one was as detailed as this. Ty, I'm 5 minutes away from waterproofing my gear
@@William_NS Ya know, I was wondering that same thing as I was typing it. I'm sure it's not a product they were manufacturing in house though. I might have to do a lil homework. To be fair, it wasn't a cheap product.
Fpv worry free does a better job than regular conformal coating. It's so easy to miss a spot with conformal. Fpv worry free encases everything in a gelatinous substance. Flew my quad into a waterfall in scotland no problem. But yes it is more of a pain to get off
I use Conformal for my standard quad builds but for my waterproof builds, I use FPV Worry Free. So I can FPV Worry Free! no but seriously, if you want to fly through downpours or land in the swimming pool, FPV Worry Free is where it's at!
I may or may not have landed and taken off from a few swimming pools with this stuff, lol....not on purpose of course :p worry free does give you a little more confidence though since it is thicker.
I've been using the worry free stuff but I think I'm going to try the thinner stuff you have. The wf stuff is like smearing silicone caulking across the board. I learned about the barometer on the speedybee boards by coating my first one and covering that little hole. On my 30x30 I was able to scrape it off and it was fine but my 20x20 I must of gotten some inside because it's always saying I'm at a few thousand feet. Makes the RTH function pretty interesting.
Im so keen to do this asap. I have the strongest urges to fly when its raining. Now i just gotta see how bad vision gets under rain without installing teeny tiny windscreen (lens) wipers 😅
I was gonna say, a little rainex keeps it from sticking and making big beads. I don't really like to fly in the rain anyway even if the lens isn't feeling clingy, but a small wipe of that helps for sure.
Great suggestions, thanks! I've noticed alot of places where I live become totally devoid of humans with the slightest rain, so it's a great time to fly 🥷
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, dude! 😃 I never conformal coated anything because that stuff is really expensive here in Brazil... But I'm going to get some as soon as I can! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
A small nitpick: barometers can be damaged by isopropyl alcohol or other solvents, so you should close the opening _before_ cleaning the board, not just before conformal coating. Source: dps310 datasheet: "Air blow and ultrasonic cleaning procedures shall not be applied to MEMS pressure sensors. A non-clean paste is recommended for the assembly to avoid subsequent cleaning steps. The MEMS sensor can be severely damaged by cleaning substances." Also, ovens can work for quad drying, if temperature is regulated well enough. 80°C with convection on works pretty well (if you have a battery powered beeper, maybe choose a lower temp - lipos don't like high temperatures). Or a hairdryer.
You can also put silicon grease in the sockets for extra protection. Forms a watertight seal without compromising conductivity (the plug just displaces the grease). Probably regular grease would work too, it does in automotive applications, but might be more conductive.
I do conformal coat if I have the bottle handy when I'm building. Def coat the esc, but don't worry much about the fc as I figure grass juice and condensation are more a risk. Whoops always get a coating. I missed my landing pad once, dropped my inav build into a snow bank and retrieved a giant snow ball. 2 days on the fan, it still flies as badly as I make it.
Excellent video. Super comprehensive. If you want to be as waterproofed as possible I’d do the conformal and then fpv worry free. It’ll be more work to peel off after for repairs though.
Thanks for all the videos, very useful as a prospective beginner to the hobby (currently getting some sim time until I'm comfortable). Reckon an air compressor would cause issues blowing off drone electronics?
I just use it on the one analog 5” I keep around for flying off boats and in winter weather(I’ve had 4 or 5). I have dunked them many times, I dried them, wait about 1-2 days and they are always fine. I have never ruined one from snow or water surprisingly
Hi mate, great video as always! I was wondering if I need to cover the lipo balance connector in order to dive in water or is no issue at all? Thanks for your knowledge!
I make side panels out of thin plastic food containers to help protect the guts from flinging debris and branches and just fly with caution around water or when it's really wet
While I have a bottle of conformal, I usually don't bother with it. Well done explanation on the proper use of conformal coating. My Acrobrat was destroyed by water, it's sitting at the bottom of a lake. 🤓
I have done this in a meteor75 whoop and it worked fine . The only problem was that I had many temperature warnings in osd on summer. That's why I didn't do it in my larger quads
blue tac is the best tool when conformal coating, i fill the plugs and plug the baro with it and spray my circut board laquer spray till it runs off, 3 coats, then when its dry i scrape the skin off and use fresh blue tac to pull out the tac thats in the plugs, or if im not using that plug then i leave it filled and coated, also im a firm beleiver that it increases durability by making the componants less suseptable to vibrations and stuff cos they glued down like a mofo. - driftingS13
Blue Tac is a great way to do it! I tend to be the joker who gets it stuck in the ports though, lol...so I just plug them in now rather than have to dig it out. I too agree about having the components better seated after coating, and it looks like more manufacturers are doing that in some spots now.
blue tac is the best for almost everything. I like it to mute the vifly gpsmate beeper when im plugged into my laptop. It thinks the battery has been ejected and has the self powered beeper that is beyond annoying. blue tac over the horn...silence.
@@BaconNinjaFPV i 100% plug in the ones im using first, just the usb and baro i usually remove it from any extra plugs it can stay there and help keep it sealed for life
@@Fly_High_FPV silicone plugs dont do the job well enough for spray, i have had the usb become unuseable because the circut board lacquer is so thin and runny it made its way into there, if your using a brush then the silicone plugs are all good, the blue tac works great for the spray cos you can really fill the usb and plugs and when you remove it their is 0 conformal that gets in there even tho i drench the stack till the conformal runs off it
you can with the silicone as well :) I have a quad back on the wall that has 3 years worth of soldering repairs and component swaps through the silicone conformal. The coating is getting a lil thick now on it though, lol.
The biggest issue with acrylic is it's less flexible , and even more prone to chipping than 422c and 422b . I like how tbe flexible coatings help secure wires too 👌
Just dunked a quad in my pond 2 days ago.... dried it with compressed air and stuck in the convection oven at 120F° for an hour. I thought I got away with it, but the HDzero vtx tripped the smoke stopper. I guess that one is toast. Ahh well...
You just reminded me, I don't know where my MG Chemicals went. I try to coat all my quads but I am guilty of letting many go without a coating. I live in the only place hotter and dryer than Texas. So, only by maliceful machination might my multi-rotor's microelectronics meet a most moist moratorium, misfortune; Le malheur! I actually have some FPV Worry Free but like you said, it's a pain in the ass if you ever plan to work on the quad again. With that said, my conformal coating should be here Tuesday and my little USB plugs, tomorrow. I never thought to buy USB-C and Micro USB dust covers, thanks!
Also, as good as conformal coating is, I stopped using it once I found drydrone. That stuff is absolutely INCREDIBLE. Unlike conformal, you don't even know its there when soldering.
with the silicone and acrylic based coatings you can just heat up the pad like you would when tinning and the coating will burn off within a couple of seconds :) That is one reason to use thin coats as opposed to thicker ones because although you can still burn through a thicker one it will leave more mess from bubbling coating.
Great vid - I plan to do it. So I will leave all the solder joints and cables on there and try to get to all the places?! Probably the best way is to do it while building, leaving out the solder points, solder them and then coat those places. Too late for me ;-)
I tend to not use that kind of polish as coating just because it remains flammable after it dries. Not that you couldn't and it would last longer with that than acrylic, but some things tend to get hot on quad parts and I just never liked that combo. Hot glue can be done too, and I admit I have done that wayyyy back in the day when I used to build my own PCBs. Downside is that will retain quite a bit of heat and may impact the service life of components.
I like e6000 for $3 hardware store coating. It works extremely well if yoj can spread it properly, but it's permanent. Great if you have a build with bt/wifi, and you want to fly under water😂
Dont use hot glue on any boards that get hot (pretty much all boards in fpv) if it gets hot enough to liquefy it will creep and ruin boards 😪 i've seen it make some on the fly antenna mounts and fpv mounts and single use skidz too 🤣 (that's the kinda junk that literally led me to 3D Printing 👌)
I've used this MGChemicals 422C for the last couple of years and its so brittle when it dries, it cracks and falls off so easily. I've tried doing thin layers, thick layers, multiple layers and it still ends up dry and flaky. I heard someone said they changed formula's a few years back but I don't know how true that is. Anyway I'm looking for another product but can't find anything. Except FPVWorryFree but that looks likes its impossible to work through to re-solder things. Any other products to use? Thanks.
It has always been pretty hard for me to kill anything with water and I usually do the air it out thing too. Seems like some people have some really bad luck with it though and short something with even the smallest pond dip, lol.
Help please! I can't connect to update firmware on my flight controller. It tries to connect and doesn't work, then if connect, then disconnect in 3-5sec, or connect with CLI only, or says about unavailable version, and there is no my board of FC(SPracingF3) as an option in Betaflight-configurator(i tried few older versions too). I tried update/change drivers and also ImpulseRC doens't find anything. Would be nicer if we could connect in discord/slype etc so faster/better communication and so i can show what exactly happens. But any help would be great. Thanks!
Good day sir. I followed your tutorial on how to flash ESC and it was successful but later it suddenly not functioning appearing on the speedybee app was ESC/Motor Protocol not configured, then I try to flash it again on ESC configurator but my esc cannot configure when i hit readsettings its hanging? I used Speedybee BLS 50A 4-in-1 ESC Hope you can help me, thank you in advance.
This has nothing to do with water proofing. Just swapped everything from a aos 5 frame to tanq frame. I kept breaking the AOS 5 frame. Using xing2 1855kv motors. What props should I use on this heavy frame. I really did like the AOS 5 it's just to fragile.
I am doing a lot of shots for actionsports the whole year and i coat all quads with confo mal i tried worry free once but its a real mess to put it on and timewasting a lot in comparison to conformal. Way better solution for me and sooooo much cheaper too
cant you just get the hull off the dji o3 for example, and first coat the inside without coating any plugs and then coat every airhole of the hull and assemble it back? that way you could keep your plugs and still waterproof everything…
hi Bacon, what do you think about all gubments drawing a line around you and saying you are not allowed to leave?(Antarctic Treaty) If you don't know what I mean, read my about tab.
Absolutely do not put conformal coating on your bare vtx! I did this and it suffocated the vtx ,its just black now. I used worry free and it doesn't come off with alcohol. when I re-watched all the videos. I noticed they all had an aluminum case, that they just covered up the holes with the worry free. so now I have the worlds lightest paperweight lol also thanks for the video I have a speedy bee I will be conformal coating soon
I suspect the really important thing is what you do after the quad gets wet. I have some experience with quads and water. I've had a Kised Alien that was underwater for a couple of hours and a Diatone GT349 which was under water for 5-15 mins. The Alien lost it's battery, the battery of the GT349 stayed on. Both of those quads are still flying - the Alien is had it's swim about 5 years ago - there's a photo of the ALien immediately after it was pulled out of the water at the end of: th-cam.com/video/GYVIpIQGcXA/w-d-xo.html. The Alien had had extensive conformal treatment, the GT had only had conformal on the solder joints for the motos and battery wire joints - it was it's first flight and it was a plug 'n' play and I had not pulled it down yet. The quads both went into the same water - an onramental creek at my local park.The water is fresh water, but it has rats and ducks and who knows what else swimming in it and the bottom is covered in sediment, so it is not very clean fresh water. The Alein came up covered in mud etc - I could not see the Alien when I recovered it even though it was only in 9-12" of water. The water was a fair bit cleaner when teh GT went. In both cases after recovering the quad (and disconnecting the battery for the GT - out of the water) - I took the quads home and flushed them with fresh clean tap water (our tap water is chlorinated) for like 10-15 mins, rotating them and moving the hose around to cover as many anbgles as possible, basically trying to git rid of as many conductiver particles as possible. Then I left then to dry for 2-3 days in the sun. In both cases it was summer which means it was 35C+ (nearly or around 100F) and very dry - we have very low humidity. Then I powered them up with a low charged battery (as in flown but not recharged or storage charged) smoke stopper and when that was OK I The Alien came trhough will all components OK. The GT which still had a connected battery when it when under water needed a new 4in1 ESC. With cameras I coat all the internal components except the sensor. I also apply some coating to the lens threads and for cameras with a case aroiund the join of the case back, both before and after repalcing the back. I believe the best way to apply conformal is to air brush it - the MG 422B comes "ready to spray" - but make sure you have some kind of thinners to clean out your brush after. I just use a paint brish designed for scale modelling to apply mine and i use laquer thiner to thin the coating even more (I have some that is not MG and is much thicker) and clean the brush. One thing many people don't know is is that conformal coating - at least silicon conformal - is a thermalk insulater so applying it thin is a good idea. I typcially go really heavy on the pins of chips, regulators etc and fiarly light on the top of the chip package. You can solder through conformal, but I prefer to try and scape it of with a wooden tooth pick or icream stick or to use alcohol to clean it off. If you solder through the solder behaves kinda ike lead free solder and you get little points when you take the iron off - like tiny pointy dog turds and the solder looks dull. It still works, but it looks shit and I'm not 100% convinved the join is mechanically quite as good.
Haircut looks good! makes you look more efficient and streamlined.
The more aerodynamic the better
I am speeeeeeed!
@BaconNinjaFPV have you been losing weight as well? Because it looks like it!
God dammit bacon ninja you need to keep eating bacon bacon is the way to do it. The hair needs to be more greasy it needs to be longer and we need to see some more bacon on this channel.
😂
You've been gone a while, I hope you are doing well Ninja
Haven't seen anything from you in a bit. Hope all is well man!
Where’s this man gone?
Where all the other fpv youtubers go…Burnoutville. I’ve said it for years especially the 10 years I’ve been in this hobby is never turn your hobbies into jobs…
Miss you buddy, hope all is well
long time no see , i hope you're doing well mate !
MG 8309 is a Conformal Coating Remover. So if you were overzealous with the conformal application or coated your barometer, you can most definitely reverse what you did
TIL
just got done Conformal coating my winter gear. been doing it since 2013. I like to put little heat sinks on my VTX's after coating them. I've had a couple over heat after Conformal coating.
Same way i do my esc's, peel off the heat sink, apply conformal, and squeeze the heatspreader down into the CC 👌
Where you been man? Missing ya….
Great video! I've coated over 200 quads, and I agree with all this good advice, except for the "truly waterproof" bit. Ive found with MG 422C you really need 3-4 coats to waterproof, with 1 or 2 it's still "light duty" it's super easy to rework, because you can solder right through it. Light duty means your electronics will probably survive, but in a light rain you'll eventually get waterlogged. With heavy duty coating, you'll completely encase the boards. Worry free isn't good to solder through, but you can scrape it back with a fingernail and then solder 👌 it takes about an hour to dry, but only needs one coat. If you want to seal ports properly, put in a silicone plug and carefully coat the port while it is plugged, when you need betaflight, just peel it off and recoat when you're replugged. Warm PC Desktop exhaust dryer FTW, the editing actually dries the drone 👌 great video 🙌
This worry free stuff is cool lol it makes my esc and fc look like professionally waterproofed electronics just in the way it makes that cool rubbery force field around it.
Sure was clean and shiny looking before I got impatient and went for an early fly 😂 now I got that matte desert tan finish on my stack. I basically gave my stack the FPV equivalent of a tar and feather punishment 😂🤦♂️
@RandoManFPV lol, stack dont care if it's tan n dusty, it's just happy to be dry 👌
Hey Bacon! Hope your are doing well. Miss you and your content bro. Greatings form Argentina!
I coated my 3.5" Grinderino with FPV Worry Free, easy enough to apply, haven't had an issue flying in rain or through water fountains. Coated my 5" Demibot with Flywoo X30 Superhydrophobic spray and it works just as well but even easier to apply and work with! Love the choices we have.
GREAT JOB! I've literally been putting off doing this on my quads for years! Every video I watched before yours was ok, but not one was as detailed as this. Ty, I'm 5 minutes away from waterproofing my gear
Looking Fresh! Keep up the good work. Thank You for all the help!!!!
Any new videos coming out hope everything is okay..
I like to use DryDrone to protect all the plugs then come back with the conformal coat.
Can you still get Dry Drone? I couldn't find it in stock anywhere.
@@William_NS Ya know, I was wondering that same thing as I was typing it. I'm sure it's not a product they were manufacturing in house though. I might have to do a lil homework. To be fair, it wasn't a cheap product.
Great video and perfect timing with it! I’ll be doing my first conformal coating any day now.
Thanks for you help man... hope your well
hope you are well man you were doing super great so hope you didn't get down on that! TH-cam is a never ending grind....
I've been using the mg chemicals conformal coating. That stuff is awesome. Flying in the rain is a blast!
Fpv worry free does a better job than regular conformal coating. It's so easy to miss a spot with conformal. Fpv worry free encases everything in a gelatinous substance. Flew my quad into a waterfall in scotland no problem.
But yes it is more of a pain to get off
You are the best! make more content, I would be appreciated for more "repair, soldering, troubleshooting" content. Best regards from Latvia
I appreciate you for checking this one out! :)
I use Conformal for my standard quad builds but for my waterproof builds, I use FPV Worry Free. So I can FPV Worry Free! no but seriously, if you want to fly through downpours or land in the swimming pool, FPV Worry Free is where it's at!
I may or may not have landed and taken off from a few swimming pools with this stuff, lol....not on purpose of course :p worry free does give you a little more confidence though since it is thicker.
Gratz on 8k been a while,miss ya, as always great info! MopAir :) oh now im waitin for an ankle replacement, Lookin cool my bro!
I'm from Brazil and your videos are helping me a lot. Tks bro
I've been using the worry free stuff but I think I'm going to try the thinner stuff you have. The wf stuff is like smearing silicone caulking across the board. I learned about the barometer on the speedybee boards by coating my first one and covering that little hole. On my 30x30 I was able to scrape it off and it was fine but my 20x20 I must of gotten some inside because it's always saying I'm at a few thousand feet. Makes the RTH function pretty interesting.
This is the video I’ve been looking for!
Where you go?
thanks for this video it was very timely for my first coating, just wondering if all is ok, you haven't been active in four month?. :)
Just needed this, and the video has been posted
I would never use worry free where I Live, I live in Arizona. It gets too hot and the components would overheat.
This is the video I've been waiting for.
I fly in Sweden, lots of rain here, learned the hard way to comformal coat my aio lol after 2 burned aio
Im so keen to do this asap. I have the strongest urges to fly when its raining. Now i just gotta see how bad vision gets under rain without installing teeny tiny windscreen (lens) wipers 😅
You could try using rainx on the lens and it’ll bead straight off
I was gonna say, a little rainex keeps it from sticking and making big beads. I don't really like to fly in the rain anyway even if the lens isn't feeling clingy, but a small wipe of that helps for sure.
Great suggestions, thanks! I've noticed alot of places where I live become totally devoid of humans with the slightest rain, so it's a great time to fly 🥷
@AnansiFpv we guerrilla ripped botanical gardens on a rainy day. Got permission at the front desk to "film all we wanted" 😂
Great video. Thanks for your video. Going to use 422c, live in central FL, fly around ocean alot. Thanks again.
Hey there I’ve missed seeing your videos. Looking forward to seeing more. I hope all is well.
I've been planning on doing this so I can fly in dense fog, but flying in the snow is going to be so great!
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, dude! 😃
I never conformal coated anything because that stuff is really expensive here in Brazil... But I'm going to get some as soon as I can!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hopefully those crazy import taxes dont apply to conformal coating, lol. Always good to see ya buddy!
A small nitpick: barometers can be damaged by isopropyl alcohol or other solvents, so you should close the opening _before_ cleaning the board, not just before conformal coating. Source: dps310 datasheet: "Air blow and ultrasonic cleaning procedures shall not be applied to MEMS pressure sensors. A non-clean paste is recommended for the assembly to avoid subsequent cleaning steps. The MEMS sensor can be severely damaged by cleaning substances."
Also, ovens can work for quad drying, if temperature is regulated well enough. 80°C with convection on works pretty well (if you have a battery powered beeper, maybe choose a lower temp - lipos don't like high temperatures). Or a hairdryer.
hey that is some good info! There are some sophisticated mems in there doing all the pressure sensing so that makes sense.
You can also put silicon grease in the sockets for extra protection. Forms a watertight seal without compromising conductivity (the plug just displaces the grease). Probably regular grease would work too, it does in automotive applications, but might be more conductive.
What about proofing the O3 Air Unit?
I do conformal coat if I have the bottle handy when I'm building. Def coat the esc, but don't worry much about the fc as I figure grass juice and condensation are more a risk. Whoops always get a coating. I missed my landing pad once, dropped my inav build into a snow bank and retrieved a giant snow ball. 2 days on the fan, it still flies as badly as I make it.
Excellent video. Super comprehensive. If you want to be as waterproofed as possible I’d do the conformal and then fpv worry free. It’ll be more work to peel off after for repairs though.
Thanks for all the videos, very useful as a prospective beginner to the hobby (currently getting some sim time until I'm comfortable).
Reckon an air compressor would cause issues blowing off drone electronics?
What do I do if I have a DJI camera system? Any way to waterproof that
I just use it on the one analog 5” I keep around for flying off boats and in winter weather(I’ve had 4 or 5). I have dunked them many times, I dried them, wait about 1-2 days and they are always fine. I have never ruined one from snow or water surprisingly
cant buy the conformal coating from the uk
Psst.. Hey. We miss you. You keep doing you ,TCB. Better be flying though.
“Keep doing you”…. The most overused narcissistic advice anyone can give.
Hey bacon whats camera angles you prefer for freestyle
he said 15 to 20 in one of his videos
Hi mate, great video as always! I was wondering if I need to cover the lipo balance connector in order to dive in water or is no issue at all? Thanks for your knowledge!
yes cover them up becouse all of them are connected to each cell.
you also short the one black wire with all other other reds.
I make side panels out of thin plastic food containers to help protect the guts from flinging debris and branches and just fly with caution around water or when it's really wet
While I have a bottle of conformal, I usually don't bother with it. Well done explanation on the proper use of conformal coating. My Acrobrat was destroyed by water, it's sitting at the bottom of a lake. 🤓
I have done this in a meteor75 whoop and it worked fine . The only problem was that I had many temperature warnings in osd on summer. That's why I didn't do it in my larger quads
I wonder if the gyro chipset needs to be coated?
Another great, educational video my bro. Keep up the amazing work and thank you 👊👊
blue tac is the best tool when conformal coating, i fill the plugs and plug the baro with it and spray my circut board laquer spray till it runs off, 3 coats, then when its dry i scrape the skin off and use fresh blue tac to pull out the tac thats in the plugs, or if im not using that plug then i leave it filled and coated, also im a firm beleiver that it increases durability by making the componants less suseptable to vibrations and stuff cos they glued down like a mofo. - driftingS13
Blue Tac is a great way to do it! I tend to be the joker who gets it stuck in the ports though, lol...so I just plug them in now rather than have to dig it out. I too agree about having the components better seated after coating, and it looks like more manufacturers are doing that in some spots now.
blue tac is the best for almost everything. I like it to mute the vifly gpsmate beeper when im plugged into my laptop. It thinks the battery has been ejected and has the self powered beeper that is beyond annoying. blue tac over the horn...silence.
@@BaconNinjaFPV i 100% plug in the ones im using first, just the usb and baro i usually remove it from any extra plugs it can stay there and help keep it sealed for life
100% this, but instead of bluetac I use silicone plugs for usb 👍
@@Fly_High_FPV silicone plugs dont do the job well enough for spray, i have had the usb become unuseable because the circut board lacquer is so thin and runny it made its way into there, if your using a brush then the silicone plugs are all good, the blue tac works great for the spray cos you can really fill the usb and plugs and when you remove it their is 0 conformal that gets in there even tho i drench the stack till the conformal runs off it
Acrylic MG Chemicals - 419D-55ML...is better because you can solder right through it for repair
you can with the silicone as well :) I have a quad back on the wall that has 3 years worth of soldering repairs and component swaps through the silicone conformal. The coating is getting a lil thick now on it though, lol.
The biggest issue with acrylic is it's less flexible , and even more prone to chipping than 422c and 422b . I like how tbe flexible coatings help secure wires too 👌
Just dunked a quad in my pond 2 days ago.... dried it with compressed air and stuck in the convection oven at 120F° for an hour. I thought I got away with it, but the HDzero vtx tripped the smoke stopper. I guess that one is toast. Ahh well...
I think should rinse it with distilled water before drying it
@@flat-earther I think you're right... 🙂 also something I learned from this video.
How is flywoo x30?
You just reminded me, I don't know where my MG Chemicals went. I try to coat all my quads but I am guilty of letting many go without a coating. I live in the only place hotter and dryer than Texas. So, only by maliceful machination might my multi-rotor's microelectronics meet a most moist moratorium, misfortune; Le malheur!
I actually have some FPV Worry Free but like you said, it's a pain in the ass if you ever plan to work on the quad again. With that said, my conformal coating should be here Tuesday and my little USB plugs, tomorrow. I never thought to buy USB-C and Micro USB dust covers, thanks!
Also, as good as conformal coating is, I stopped using it once I found drydrone. That stuff is absolutely INCREDIBLE. Unlike conformal, you don't even know its there when soldering.
Where do you live? I'm in ARIZONA, and it's about 115. Will this stuff help me here with the heat? Ty
What's the thing called that makes my drone ramp up in speed it bumps into something??
Air mode
Ok nice,but what I would do if I want to solder something?
with the silicone and acrylic based coatings you can just heat up the pad like you would when tinning and the coating will burn off within a couple of seconds :) That is one reason to use thin coats as opposed to thicker ones because although you can still burn through a thicker one it will leave more mess from bubbling coating.
@@BaconNinjaFPV now it makes sense! Thanks for the info!
Great vid - I plan to do it. So I will leave all the solder joints and cables on there and try to get to all the places?! Probably the best way is to do it while building, leaving out the solder points, solder them and then coat those places. Too late for me ;-)
What if we use Nail Polish, the stuff with nitrocelulose, the good stuff. Or what if we just put hot glue over everything?
I tend to not use that kind of polish as coating just because it remains flammable after it dries. Not that you couldn't and it would last longer with that than acrylic, but some things tend to get hot on quad parts and I just never liked that combo. Hot glue can be done too, and I admit I have done that wayyyy back in the day when I used to build my own PCBs. Downside is that will retain quite a bit of heat and may impact the service life of components.
@@BaconNinjaFPV Ha, yeah, nitrocellulose and a hot ESC would make a quad that's FIRE!! 🔥
I like e6000 for $3 hardware store coating. It works extremely well if yoj can spread it properly, but it's permanent. Great if you have a build with bt/wifi, and you want to fly under water😂
Dont use hot glue on any boards that get hot (pretty much all boards in fpv) if it gets hot enough to liquefy it will creep and ruin boards 😪 i've seen it make some on the fly antenna mounts and fpv mounts and single use skidz too 🤣 (that's the kinda junk that literally led me to 3D Printing 👌)
I've used this MGChemicals 422C for the last couple of years and its so brittle when it dries, it cracks and falls off so easily. I've tried doing thin layers, thick layers, multiple layers and it still ends up dry and flaky. I heard someone said they changed formula's a few years back but I don't know how true that is. Anyway I'm looking for another product but can't find anything. Except FPVWorryFree but that looks likes its impossible to work through to re-solder things. Any other products to use? Thanks.
If it goes in the drink , I put the air line on it , leave it for a day and its ready to send again.
Never conformal coat anything here
It has always been pretty hard for me to kill anything with water and I usually do the air it out thing too. Seems like some people have some really bad luck with it though and short something with even the smallest pond dip, lol.
GOOD JOB MATE
Help please! I can't connect to update firmware on my flight controller. It tries to connect and doesn't work, then if connect, then disconnect in 3-5sec, or connect with CLI only, or says about unavailable version, and there is no my board of FC(SPracingF3) as an option in Betaflight-configurator(i tried few older versions too). I tried update/change drivers and also ImpulseRC doens't find anything. Would be nicer if we could connect in discord/slype etc so faster/better communication and so i can show what exactly happens. But any help would be great. Thanks!
Good day sir. I followed your tutorial on how to flash ESC and it was successful but later it suddenly not functioning appearing on the speedybee app was ESC/Motor Protocol not configured, then I try to flash it again on ESC configurator but
my esc cannot configure when i hit readsettings its hanging?
I used Speedybee BLS 50A 4-in-1 ESC
Hope you can help me, thank you in advance.
Anyone know why Bacon hasn't been around? Been worried about him for months 😟
Miss you bacon! Hope you’re well dude
Worryfree for the win..
Yessir!
I live in florida and I've never seen snow
A better way to protect plugs etc. is to put Kapton tape over the opening.
Conformal coating ftw🤘🏻😃 been using that since my first quad! But I also live in norway, just rain or snow😂
This has nothing to do with water proofing. Just swapped everything from a aos 5 frame to tanq frame. I kept breaking the AOS 5 frame. Using xing2 1855kv motors. What props should I use on this heavy frame. I really did like the AOS 5 it's just to fragile.
Check out the 80’s Band the Talking Heads. They wrote a song about Pond Water.
Havnt heard from you in 6 months. Hopefully youre okay and doing good 👍
Estonia, conformal coating for snow ☃
I am
doing a lot of shots for actionsports the whole year and i coat all quads with confo mal i tried worry free once but its a real mess to put it on and timewasting a lot in comparison to conformal. Way better solution for me and sooooo much cheaper too
Are you still alive? Just checking in on ya brother
I try to fly everyday even in Vermont winter I break less in the snow
Softer crash landing
Great video and explanation but didn't you just coat the barometer that you said not to? 😂
Also I do live in Canada so if I want to fly this winter this is a must 😂
Hey whats going on?!
cant you just get the hull off the dji o3 for example, and first coat the inside without coating any plugs and then coat every airhole of the hull and assemble it back? that way you could keep your plugs and still waterproof everything…
Don't put on on barometer!
Proceeds to brush directly over barometer...
love the vids tho
Lol, it was pretty tough to hold the cam and brush it on at the same time through the view finder so I just kinda went with it.
but seriously, I just got into FPV a couple months ago and you have taught me so much man. -Thank you@@BaconNinjaFPV
fresh cut huh noice
it was about time! lol
@@BaconNinjaFPV eyyy noice
what happen,,,almost 10 month not seeing your enjoyable video
Ace video thanks from the never dry UK 😂
my favourite is Dry Drone - it is kind of 3M chemical :)
th-cam.com/video/rcWkcaVYigw/w-d-xo.html
look for other vids, it simply creates a surface where water cannot adhere (or like that) - so almost everything can be coverd with...
8:39 😂😂
how many people who does coating knows when you dip coated part to acetone it removes coating completely, push like it is new for you.
Bro where tf did you go?
hi Bacon, what do you think about all gubments drawing a line around you and saying you are not allowed to leave?(Antarctic Treaty) If you don't know what I mean, read my about tab.
Absolutely do not put conformal coating on your bare vtx! I did this and it suffocated the vtx ,its just black now. I used worry free and it doesn't come off with alcohol. when I re-watched all the videos. I noticed they all had an aluminum case, that they just covered up the holes with the worry free. so now I have the worlds lightest paperweight lol also thanks for the video I have a speedy bee I will be conformal coating soon
Bacon Ninja, where you at bro?
I suspect the really important thing is what you do after the quad gets wet.
I have some experience with quads and water. I've had a Kised Alien that was underwater for a couple of hours and a Diatone GT349 which was under water for 5-15 mins. The Alien lost it's battery, the battery of the GT349 stayed on. Both of those quads are still flying - the Alien is had it's swim about 5 years ago - there's a photo of the ALien immediately after it was pulled out of the water at the end of: th-cam.com/video/GYVIpIQGcXA/w-d-xo.html.
The Alien had had extensive conformal treatment, the GT had only had conformal on the solder joints for the motos and battery wire joints - it was it's first flight and it was a plug 'n' play and I had not pulled it down yet.
The quads both went into the same water - an onramental creek at my local park.The water is fresh water, but it has rats and ducks and who knows what else swimming in it and the bottom is covered in sediment, so it is not very clean fresh water.
The Alein came up covered in mud etc - I could not see the Alien when I recovered it even though it was only in 9-12" of water. The water was a fair bit cleaner when teh GT went.
In both cases after recovering the quad (and disconnecting the battery for the GT - out of the water) - I took the quads home and flushed them with fresh clean tap water (our tap water is chlorinated) for like 10-15 mins, rotating them and moving the hose around to cover as many anbgles as possible, basically trying to git rid of as many conductiver particles as possible.
Then I left then to dry for 2-3 days in the sun. In both cases it was summer which means it was 35C+ (nearly or around 100F) and very dry - we have very low humidity.
Then I powered them up with a low charged battery (as in flown but not recharged or storage charged) smoke stopper and when that was OK I
The Alien came trhough will all components OK.
The GT which still had a connected battery when it when under water needed a new 4in1 ESC.
With cameras I coat all the internal components except the sensor. I also apply some coating to the lens threads and for cameras with a case aroiund the join of the case back, both before and after repalcing the back.
I believe the best way to apply conformal is to air brush it - the MG 422B comes "ready to spray" - but make sure you have some kind of thinners to clean out your brush after. I just use a paint brish designed for scale modelling to apply mine and i use laquer thiner to thin the coating even more (I have some that is not MG and is much thicker) and clean the brush.
One thing many people don't know is is that conformal coating - at least silicon conformal - is a thermalk insulater so applying it thin is a good idea. I typcially go really heavy on the pins of chips, regulators etc and fiarly light on the top of the chip package.
You can solder through conformal, but I prefer to try and scape it of with a wooden tooth pick or icream stick or to use alcohol to clean it off.
If you solder through the solder behaves kinda ike lead free solder and you get little points when you take the iron off - like tiny pointy dog turds and the solder looks dull. It still works, but it looks shit and I'm not 100% convinved the join is mechanically quite as good.
You forgot the barometer hole. 🤯