Roosa Master Fuel Injection Pump DB Rebuild - Restoring the Crawler: Part 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2020
- This video should provide you a firm understanding of basic workings of a Roosa Master DB type fuel injection pump. I will walk you through the rebuilding process in detail from scratch to a complete pump. I'm not an expert. I however did much research before filming.
Thanks to yesterdaystractors.com and allischalmers.com where I received fantastic information. This pump is off my 1968 Allis Chalmers HD4. The pump and tractor sat for a decade and I am restoring her. The pump plungers and metering valve were seized as discovered in my first, less detailed video of the disassembly. Therefore no fuel was allowed to the injectors. In my next video I will reinstall the pump in an attempt to resurrect the Crawler.
My Roosa Master model number is: DBGFC 437-7AF
The Tractor: 1968 Allis Chalmers HD4 SN: +3001 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I am so pumped on how much money you are gonna save us !!! Thank you SO much for finally giving this generation a clear and detailed explanation on all of this.
You are most welcome Shannon! I'm glad it helped you!
Thanks so much for putting this video together. Impressed that you endeavored to film your first rebuild and then actually edited together! Quarantining has some positive aspects.
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for taking the time to show us!!!!
Wow that is quite in depth! Good job on the whole project, keep it up!
Thank you!
I love the work station set up that is what i do wit carborators
thank you for helping...
Happy I could help! Blessings and best of luck to you and anyone else who is looking at this in 2022!
Good job bro
Josh. Are there o rings on the throttle/shutoff linkage? I didn't notice you talk about any?
Are you sure the knife edge on the governor arm pivot goes towards the driveshaft and not towards the transfer pump? I am looking at a diagram of the pump in the manual that shows the knife edge pointing rearward toward transfer pump. What would happen if this is installed wrong and I should be able to reverse it once installed on the engine, I hope?
When I was at the part where you lubed up and slid the head in I was dying laughing love all the euphemisms
I'm glad someone got the them!
Appreciate it buddy 👍
Thanks for the support! Best of luck!
You explain things very well.
I wish the cameras weren’t so far away. There isn’t good definition in the video.😕
Thank you so much. Very in depth and great camera angles. I do have a question??? My CHAMFERED ring fell out in 4 pieces and I'm having a hard time finding one online and elsewhere. Would you know where I might find one or where to start looking? Thanks again
Yikes! I’d try your local pump shops or diesel repair shops. Otherwise maybe try to find a pump on an old machine at a scrap yard. Otherwise you could always have a new ring manufactured at your local machine shop if you brought them the pieces.
Josh, Where did you find the manual to rebuild your pump? I am looking for a good manual to rebuild a DBGFCC 431-54AJ pump. Appreciate your feedback
I found mine on EBay. Reprints. Hope that helps you
💯💯💯💯💯💯
Did you finish the install? I was looking forward to a part 5 to see the umbrella seal install.
Which is a good time
I've done it now about 7 times lol. No tool and no problem.
I finished that segment of the restoration, and others, I'll be sure to release an install vid.
I must have screwed up mine, it just goes to full rpm when starting. Think maybe the governor isn't right.
I how know the different between on a D or DB pump ? or are the difference ?
Here's a full explanation for you and others, I've added my info for the example:
DBGFC 437-7AF DB: D is series, and the B is indicative of the .920" diameter rotor with the bore type delivery valve.
G is mechanical governor,
F is flange mount, V is vertical (4020),
C is clockwise rotation, CC is counterclockwise(viewed from drive end),
4 is # of outlets(feeding cylinders),
37 is .370" plunger diameter. (Available diameters: .250,.270,.290,.310,.330,.350,.370,.390,.450)
7 is specification #, and AF is accessory code (specific to the machine type it's mounted on)
Hope this helps someone!
What would cause a pump to stop pumping? Or u to have to pour water on it to get it work when hot?
I know this is 2 months late, but please don't poor water in your diesel pump! it can't be good for the engine.
@@adventureswithjosh7914 I ain’t pouring it in the fuel or pump I’m pouring it ontop the pump because my head is wore and gets out of tolerance and can’t supply cranking amount of fuel when it’s hot and tolerances are off. The water cools it down enough to allow it to crank
Governor arm goes towards the rear. Transfer side.
Lol do as I do, not as I say :p
What is the name of that gasket you say most people replace it because it disintegrates?
Governor retainer ring
If it is the one at 11:00 it is called a flex ring. He did not replace his. This is a no no! He says it is a common failure why not replace it??? It is not expensive and it gets replaced with the light colored one every time you do a rebuild. I worked on these in the mid '80s and I am sure this step still is not skipped. At that time if you had the black flex ring it meant it was the old design and it needed to be replaced. Who knows because I have been out of this trade for so long maybe they changed design again.
@@1crazynordlander is there a place to get the return line check valve at the top of the pump? I can't seem to find a good way to take it apart and clean it
My Moto is if it’s not broken, don’t fix it. You may want to, but because I was also troubleshooting a bigger set of fuel system problems in my crawler I decided not to add any extra variables, and because mine was in perfect condition and the new one looked to be of inferior makings. But by all means replace it if yours is at all warn.
were do you buy parts
I got my seal kit at Barrie Pump Repair in Barrie Ontario. However I'm sure a cursory search for local pump shops and a healthy dose of politeness and you'll be set!
Are you supposed to take the head apart also?
yes
Ive got a TATA TELCOLINE 2.0 DIESEL it not reving but it start
I'm sure it's too late now, but it sound's like a jammed throttle linkage.
SO TODAY I LOST CYLINDERS 3 AND 4 ON MY 580B, I SUSPECT A FUEL ISSUE, IT HAS 4 NEW INJECTORS AND HAS RUN LIKE A CHAMP FOR TWO YEARS, 10 MINUTES IN THIS MORNING IT JUST CUT OUT AND I TESTED AND THE EXHAUST ON 3 AND 4 IS COLD
IM GOING TO GET A COMPRESSION TESTER AND CHECK BUT THERE DOESNT APPEAR TO BE ANY NOISE OR ANY CLUES PRIOR TO THIS HAPPENING
IS THERE ANYTHING IN THE INJECTOR PUMP DESIGN THAT WOULD ALLOW A FAILURE IN THE PUMP TO TAKE OUT 3 AND 4 AT THE SAME TIME AND LET 1 AND 2 JUST RUN FINE ?
I have a Miller welder w/ the Waukesha 4-cyl that also uses a DB pump. Assuming you also have this same series of pump. Depending on how long your rig sits between uses the pump internals can become coated in a slimy film...basically a type algae that can grow in the tank & this isn't always stopped by the filters. This can gum up internals & even plug the passages on the distributor head or even the lines. One way to confirm fuel delivery issue is to crack loose the lines on the problem cylinders 1st at the injectors. If no fuel weeps out then the problem is either the line or the port on the IP. Next loosen the line nut on the IP. If you get fuel then the line is plugged. If not then the pump needs to be cleaned. Just be sure to have a new seal kit for re-assembly.
I couldn’t have said it better myself. Thanks for taking the time to help this person here!
@@adventureswithjosh7914 Can't afford a shop but am mechanically inclined to take the leap. Have had the diesel bug for a bit now especially since my DD is a 40 yr old VW. Have to say the Stanadyne pump is simpler but the BOSCH can more easily have a longer service life of several 100k miles. Did an engine swap...motor going in hadn't been run in a couple years & when went to start up...it ran like ****. Come to find out the pump that I didn't loop the return to the inlet had allowed the diesel to slowly evaporate & left behind sticky schlack.