RE-ASSEMBLING STANADYNE (ROOSA MASTER) INJECTION PUMP '68 CASE 580CK TRACTOR WITH 188 DIESEL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2022
- Finally, here's the assembly video of the Stanadyne diesel injection pump for my '68 Case 580CK tractor (188 Diesel). It is a step-by-step video including most of the part numbers needed and some tips along the way.
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very much appreciate detail you gave ty
The pump worked very well afterwards. One thing I missed on the re-build though, was the pressure regulating device inside the end cover of the pump. I made a video of that clean out here: th-cam.com/video/HzoRAOV3DYE/w-d-xo.html
Watched your video several times . followed your instructions the best I could , primed the filters hit the button and that old girl fired right up on the second try, running real strong, Thank You so much....
I'm so glad to hear that your pump rebuild went well. That's fantastic. There was one or two things I did miss on the rebuild that are worth mentioning should they ever create an issue for anyone later on. First, there is more than one metering rod in the blind hole that allows air to escape up into the governor chamber. Another rebuilder pointed that out. I only had one fall out when I removed the grub screw but apparently, there's another one behind it. Second: the pressure regulator inside the end cap of the injection pump (the fuel-in end) was stuck on mine but I didn't know about it and made many attempts to start the engine with no luck until a viewer pointed it out. I made a separate video showing the disassembly and cleaning of the plunger inside the end cap. I think it's the video where I finally got the tractor started. All the best and keep in touch, I'd like to hear stories about how your tractor is going and any repairs, etc. All the best to you ! Craig
Best so far very detailed and good camera work.
Thank You! I try to make my videos entertaining and useful. There are many hours of footage that get edited for the final product that emerges here on the channel. I'm very happy to hear that you found this helpful.
I haven't seen a vid from you for a bit, I was starting to wonder. This is a great video. My machine has been run hard and put away wet so I'm sure at some point I'm going to be doing this. You make it look not so intimidating. I'm not relishing the idea but the way you lay it out makes me think I can tackle it. You're a good Teacher!
It seemed to fix the fuel starvation problem. I have since had the engine almost start, running on its own for 5 to 10 seconds. I set the valves and checked the timing. I have been letting it sit now with Seafoam in the cylinders to free up possibly stuck rings. You were right I think.
Super, awesome, great!!! God bless your ❤👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you very much
thank you for you're video
You are welcome!
That was fantastic to watch and it was good to listen to what each of the parts does. I remembered some of the steps from when you took it apart but not all of them. You did a great job and I am sure it will run good.
Thanks. I think this rebuild has fixed the fuel starvation problem. Still some kinks to work out in other areas.
Great video man baby steps I appreciate the step by step. Some of these guys make it way too complicated and leave out the important details you kept it simple and detailed I’m taking mine apart tomorrow
Hey, good luck with your rebuild. If you hit any problems let me know, I'll help if I can. 👍
Look for my video "DISASSEMBLING STANADYNE (ROOSA MASTER) DIESEL INJECTION PUMP: 1968 CASE 580CK TRACTOR" it should help too
Hey man I lost one of the injector bolts that screw into the pump and inject diesel to the head where can I order a new one. Ps. I disassembled the injector pump and I had the same issue stuck plungers!
@@titofuentez2340 Most diesel shops will be able to find you that part. I'm in Canada but I see there is a full-service place in Oregon that looks like they'll be able to ship anywhere -not sure where you are. They are called "OREGON FUEL INJECTION" they say they'll ship worldwide. Good luck
@@EverydayProjects appreciate the help buddy I subscribed!
Hey thanks for taking the time to film and explain this. I am just finishing up a 6 cylinder john deere pump. First injection pump I have built. Took my time and watched a bunch of videos and read the old shop manual.
This was the first injection pump I'd done. I watched several videos, looked online extensively (and didn't find much information I really needed), then I just dove in---carefully. These are not that difficult once you've seen it done and if you are careful. There are many things that demand care inside them so slow and easy is the way. I hope your pump runs a long time. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@EverydayProjects same boat. I do detailed things by trade so I was not too afraid to try it. It's for a neighbor. Tractor is broken down due to it so could not get much worse. Found the plastic weight cage retainer 100% gone. Cage was just bouncing around in there. Found the metering valve stop backwards and up against the metering valve. So spring was up against the set screw. Found the inlet valve stop blown out and just lodged in the end plate. Think the last link was when one of the springs failed in the transfer pump. Also found the check valve in the governor cover missing the ball. Also the governor spring was not put in correct. Guessing it will fire up and run like a million bucks. I was hanging so much weight on having it run on a test stand prior to putting it on the engine. After reading up and not changing any of the settings I think it will probably work just fine without shipping it out. There is no one I can find local that tests injection pumps.
@@joeholland428 That's a bad bunch of stuff that was wrong inside that one-no wonder it wouldn't work. I did the same thing--I didn't change any of the settings and just replaced worn parts and gave it a clean out.
This is better than that new Tom Cruise movie. Been waiting on this before I took mine apart. Here in Florida it is supposed to be 105° heat factor tomorrow.
This won't go as fast as Tom Cruise but it will get the pump back together. I'm in British Columbia, Canada and our temperatures have been a pleasant 70-75 lately. Enjoy the show!
@@EverydayProjects lol, thanks for an excellent video.
@@EverydayProjects I am heading to Ireland at the end of this month, the temps will be much more pleasant there, but will return to the heat to build this pump using this as a guide.
@@michaelkennedy2528 No sweat. I hope your rebuild goes well. This pump has been back in the tractor for about a week but I have some other issues. Low compression from stuck rings-I think. The tractor sat for 15 years outside with old fuel in it and it is lucky the engine wasn't seized. I am making progress though and the fuel starvation problem to the injectors was remedied by this pump rebuild. ALMOST have the old girl running !
@@EverydayProjects My father passed and I ended up with this 1968 580CK. It sat for a year or two, and I had it running for a little bit and of course it exposed every hose that needed to be replaced and a couple of hard Parts on the connection for the bucket right at the controller. The local auto parts place NAPA Auto Parts make the hoses here at certain locations and they tend to be pretty pricey with their parts. But once I have this going I will have no further issues I hope.
A tremendous thank you for this video. You by far have the best assembly video here on youtube. I rebuilt my pump in a few days and my old 580ck is now running great. Something different I did was I welded my two piece weight cage together where the coupling would be. I modified a 9/16 wrench too, I heated, bent a curve and ground the round part like you did. That back nut is a tough one. Also my delivery valve would not come out no matter what i tried. So i drilled a hole in the center of a 6mm bolt just enough to grab the tit sticking up to pull it out. Heating was my last resort, but I didnt have to go that far.
This pump of mine may have wear beyond tolerances or the pump plungers or cam ring may need to be replaced with new ones. The engine just doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel. The pump plungers were stuck solid when I took it apart and I cleaned and reused them but perhaps there was enough wear in them to make a difference. Also, I'm learning that the cam ring can be worn and the delivery stroke can be just too short to deliver the right amount of fuel. I will soon try to start the engine again but even though I am getting fuel now to (new) injectors, the engine won't fire on its own (but will roar with a sniff of ether). When I had the pump apart, I didn't remove the leaf spring or adjustment screw. I wanted to leave that as it was, but perhaps there is a bit more adjustment left to increase plunger stroke (but it looked to be maxed out). Oh well, this means there'll be more videos someday soon. Thanks for your kind comments. All the Best Craig
@@EverydayProjects hi craig I also checked the tollerance of the pump leaf spring not with air but with small screwdrivers wedging the saddle rollers out to hit the leaf spring. ( forgot the names of parts) its easier to measure the width. imo. I think my tractor has original rings and cylinders so I have a kats diesel push button start system which helps.
@@steveg5268 All good tips...I'm just a newbie to these pumps so I'm learning as I go. The one factor that is beyond me is how much wear is too much. An experienced pump rebuilder could size up the pump pretty quick and know at a glance if it's out of specs...I could very well be trying to make a worn out pump work.
@@EverydayProjects ya now that I think about it my cam ring is worn too. I'm happy with it now in warm weather, but I know when it gets cold its gonna be a bear to start without either and the block heater. My stock heater coil was broken when I bought it. So i'll prolly get a new cam ring at some point. Maybe it'll start easier when its below zero.
Just getting ready to spot weld the governor together myself. Had to modify a wrench to fit the back nut. Not done yet!
It works thanks
How's she goin'? Well Craig, I have to say you did an excellent job rebuilding the pump and injector This unit is the heart of the engine eh. I liked how you explained the internal operations of the pieces as you assembled them. I like that because it means you understand what the parts are for and what their function is. Makes for a good understanding when it comes time to troubleshoot issues. This job is way above my pay grade for sure!! Thanks for sharing and I hope the repair works out good for ya! Take care!!!
Thanks Mike. Always something new to learn and discover. I had no idea going in how the inside of this pump would look but now after hours of editing and rehashing the details I think I could assemble one of these with one eye tied behind my back.
Thanks. Very helpful.
For those of us who are hearing impaired, I would gladly contribute to your purchase of a better mic (and maybe a tripod). Is difficult to read the captions and watch the assembly procedure at the same time.
Thanks again.
Working on it!
Hello, I was cleaning these three holes with compressed air and a little pin -like nail came out. One side of it was bent a little. I know that your pump was tough to clean, not sure what this thing does, but just letting you know what I have seen in mine pump. It started but not working good. Ordered new injectors, and the part number for that part you gave me is correct, thank you again.
That is a vent rod. It acts as a metering restriction in that port that allows air in the governor chamber to vent to atmosphere. That's all I know about it. I hope you found it. Ha ha I lost the clip from the throttle shaft when I was prying it off and it hit the ceiling and dropped onto the floor somewhere and it took hours to find it. I eventually found it 8 feet away laying on the shelf of a refrigerator door I had laid against the wall. I thought it was a goner!! I haven't tried to start the tractor for months but I'm getting back to it.
@@EverydayProjects awesome, and I already redone this pump at least four times. I was messing up on little dots on the shaft and on inside of this pump, once forgot spring on accelerator lever , and last time I think I had plastic washer where weights upside-down. Oh my goodness, I think I can take it all a part and reinstalle like a lightning now. So I took one working pump off of my jd450b dozer it's turbined, and replaced four injectors on my backhoe. This package seems to be a winner, but I need to put a pump on my dozer now. So , I will get percolating test done and try it again. If it works I will rebuild dozer pump before it brakes a seal and just inspect and to see what is the difference in turbined one. Hoping it all works out, lord help us.
@@colossus5752 I have a few injector lines from pump to injector that have pin hole rust in them When I crank the engine, fuel sprays. I am trying to find a set of used lines or even the one to be replaced but not much luck so far., I called a CASE dealership and the one he could get was $300 just for a single line!!! I'm still looking.
@@EverydayProjects I would try to ask some companies that make stainless steel brake lines, or trying to weld it. For example, if it's just some portion of the line to find Lil bigger diameter of pipe and put arround preheat a little and tack weld with mig, or better with tig welder. Also I was thinking on injector side it's just a flare , looking just like some brake flares , and round parts with holes arround pump bolts are solid , so it's just metal piping or lining, and I would use stainless steel lining, I mean if you will give that a try welding, stainless welds to regular metal no problems but lasts longer and easier to weld. For 300$ 😲 a line , it's crazy. I think they should not be more than 20-30 dollars per piece, okay 50. But 300 is way out of reality in my opinion. It's worth trying making lines in my opinion.
@@colossus5752 I'm going to attempt a repair using Permatex Cold Weld (item number 14600). It says it'll withstand up to 3000 psi and sticks to steel. I'll be making a video about it soon. Yeah, $300 for a line is a total rip off!
Hey, my pump doesn't pump fuel so I think the roller pins are stuck. Any way to get those unstuck without taking it apart? Tnx 🙂
Sometimes, introducing compressed air into the discharge line will un-stick them, but usually it takes a thorough cleaning. It's worth a try.
On mine, the pressure regulator piston (inside the end cover of the pump) was stuck too and that's easy to take apart and clean. Here's that video:
th-cam.com/video/HzoRAOV3DYE/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayProjects I'll try that! Its an IH 150 drott with a 282 6 cyl, it doesnt have a fuel pump, uses gravity from the fuel tank. Was thinking of putting a low pressure electric pump on the fuel lines right before the fuel pump? Tnx 🙂
@@ButchE30M3S14 The electric pump might help but you've got to remember that the design worked without an electric fuel pump previously. Seems like you could have a blockage. I opened the inlet pipe on the injection pump and filled with Seafoam solvent and cranked it over, It seemed to move things along.
I wonder if that flex ring is what’s plugging the check valve in mine as it slowly comes apart.
It could be, I never thought of that. The flex ring in some pumps breaks down to the point of it not being there at all and the pieces have to go somewhere.
OK 1st off great vid great detail!
2nd I think I have this same pump on my allis Chalmers hd11. It just started this but it will start great then slowly die off like it's losing fuel or fuel is getting restricted. Checked all the lines and new filters everything is good up to the injection pump. Is there a screen behind where the fuel line screws into the pump? That's the only thing I can come up with of why it's acting the way it is.
Yes, there is an inlet screen where the line enters the pump.I'm no expert on these pumps, just learning as I go. Look for suction-side air leaks. That could be the problem. I had a GM 6.2 diesel and it had a hard time starting and I finally changed out the factory filter with a Racor and problem solved. Let me know what you figure out. I'd be interested to know what the problem is.
@Everyday Projects very cool thank you for the quick reply. I'm going to find out tomorrow. Did your rebuilt injection pump work out?
@@magnificentshine1 The tractor wants to start but it has some other issues, mainly holes rusted through the injection lines. I am trying to source a set of 4 lines from pump to injectors without much luck. I am hoping that I can find a diesel shop that can make me a set. Other than that, I'll have to hope that I can find a used set somewhere. This is a Case 188 diesel (originally made by Perkins).
@@EverydayProjects contract Area Diesel in Carlonsville Illinois, I'm sure they can point you in the right direct
Great detailed video, wish I would have seen it before I assembled my pump!
Currently my engine is going to full rpm and have to kill it before getting too high. I am thinking the issue is with the governor. When I assembled the pump I didn't put the throttle in full throttle, do you think if the weights fell out I would immediately know about it after starting the engine? Do you know what part of the governor makes contact with the metering valve other than the shutoff j clip? I am thinking somehow the throttle is not moving the metering valve to idle, that is all that it could be right, what else would let the pump give max fuel? Do you have any advice or things you would try?
The metering valve could be worn, allowing it not to close fully. It could be that one of the weights is out of its position in the cage. Remember, the faster the engine turns, the farther out the governor weights spin, and through the linkages, it moves the metering valve to slow the engine. If the engine is running away, one of those events is not occurring. A runaway could be a number of things including the linkage, the metering valve and also the cam advance mechanism being stuck or faulty. I would tear it apart again if I were you. Have a good look at everything inside and let us know on here what you discover. I'm not an expert on these pumps just a guy who rebuilt one. Good Luck!
@@EverydayProjects thanks for your reply and sharing your knowledge. I figured it out, I somehow had the bigger spring not on quite right on the top for the governor, luckily I was able to situate it without taking pump off again. it now runs on it own now, what a good feeling. think I may have a couple clogged injectors as it was a little sluggish and 2 exhaust ports were cold, but at least its running. I just rebuilt the engine new sleeves pistons, rings, crank turned and head done.
I changed my injectors too (video). There are many videos on my channel about the engine, pump and tractor itself. Glad to hear you got things working!!@@frugalsolutions
@@EverydayProjects do you have any recommendations for a seat? i have all the stock seat structure, but no cushions. I have seen people with a 580ck having a seat that goes up and down and swivels, probably expensive though
I am yet to buy a seat. The one on this tractor was a wreck, so I stripped it down to the bare, steel mount. In Canada, Princess Auto has seats (similar to Harbor Freight in USA). I look forward to hearing what you find. @@frugalsolutions
How did you put the injector back in correct me if I’m wrong but do you line up the flywheel top dead center and just get the marks in-line on the injector pump and she should be timed correctly?
First I used the starter to see the direction that the engine turns. Then I removed the timing plug on the right side of the tractor and turned the engine until it was 8 degrees before top dead center. I removed the starter first because I needed to get to the flywheel teeth and turn the engine from there with a big screwdriver, plus I was able to better wipe oil off the timing marks as they came around. I found that I had to wipe oil off the flywheel several times before I could see the marks, they are very faint. Once the engine is in the right position, the shaft for the injection pump needs to enter the pump with the "dot" on the shaft end aimed in the same direction as the dot inside the pump (the lines inside the inspection cover as seen from the left side of the tractor will be matched up too). This is the static timing for # 1 cylinder to fire at TDC. Good luck!
Hi I know this is a long shot but I was wondering if you have a part number for the piece at the end of the pump I think you called it vein pump. The pieces that have the small springs in the middle. The springs on mine broke so I'm trying to look for them spring or come in as package with the fins. Thank you
The Stanadyne part number for the transfer pump blades is 20511 (set of 4 with 2 springs). Look on Amazon or Ebay or call a diesel repair shop. These are a common replacement part and many sellers will stock them. Good luck. These are for the DBG pumps.
Any idea how I would set pump timing to 20 btdc on a clockwise pump from scratch with a new, unmarked, weight retainer assembly. I have no used weight retainer assembly for reference. I guess a degree wheel would be involved? Thanks
I had the old weight retainer as a reference and I am at a loss as to how you would find a way to mark a new one. I would ask a diesel injection shop. They set up pumps from scratch all the time and these older ones are quite simple compared to the modern ones. Perhaps they may have an old pump in stock to get the marks from? Please let us know on here how you make out. I wish I could be more helpful.
Does that washer go under the weights or in the slots of the weights?
The washer goes in the slot of the weights. As they spin and are thrown outward by centrifugal force, the washer gets lifted and moves the linkage to close the inlet valve. The opposite occurs as they move inward as speed is reduced, the linkage is moved to open the fuel valve.
ok thanks.
@@EverydayProjects
Are there any ways to adjust the fuel flow to the motor? Like the Allen wrench adjustment bolts the slanted one or the one in the front or maybe even the one on the back of the float bowl 🤔 mine is running rich if I can't fix it I'm going to have to rebuild it I'm thinking.
I think the adjustment would have to be done on the distance the cable turns the throttle shaft. I haven’t experimented with those settings but that’s where the adjustment would take place. Sometimes, if it isn’t delivering enough fuel it can mean that there is wear in the pump delivery plungers, the internal linkage or the delivery valve down deep inside the rotor. Yours is running rich? Maybe your injectors are worn out? I wish I could offer a definite solution but I’m still learning about these pumps myself. Let us know what you decide to do. It would make for interesting content that we can all learn from. Best Wishes from British Columbia, Canada 🇨🇦🇺🇸
My advance screw split apart when trying to disassemble. Anyone have any idea how to get it out?
No idea. Some diesel engine shops will have old inventory. I'd check with them. These Stanadyne pumps are still used in some near-modern tractors. (Case/Ford, etc) Look around online and you may find one. I bought a used pump for a spare out of the back storage of an old diesel shop. It was the last one he had. That said, there are lots of these old pumps around...just have to find old stock somewhere.
Did i miss it did it work?
Yes, it finally worked. The video showing the first start of the tractor in almost 20 years occurred just last week. There were a few bugs to work out and fix but it finally fired up. Here's the link:
th-cam.com/video/HzoRAOV3DYE/w-d-xo.html
Can I ask where you got the parts for this rebuild? I need to do the same on my 530ck.
Ebay and Amazon.com and also the small parts of the delivery valve I ordered from a Diesel parts distributor in Canada called GCL Diesel. I think they are out of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. If you call or email them with your pump model number they'll have the parts. The delivery charges were reasonable too. Good people to deal with.
gcldiesel.com/contact-us/
All the best to you and good luck with the rebuild.
So did it work? Is there an install and run video? I'm in suspense......
I"m in suspense too...I installed the rebuilt pump and it tried to fire. The fuel starvation problem was solved by rebuilding the pump but there is a problem of low compression in the engine. I have several clips coming of the attempts to start and I should get them posted. I have the cylinders sitting with Seafoam in them to try and free up stuck rings. Please look for more tractor videos coming soon---it has been a busy year.
I bought a 1966 ck 530 188 Diesel case Backhoe for $2500.00
Good score!
That’s how much the Deere dealer wanted to replace the pump!
@@Thedudeabides803 They're not cheap to replace-even a rebuilt pump can be that much. I am not prepared to spend that much on this old tractor yet and I'm hoping that I can get the engine running for much less.