Ok, but that's beyond the point. The ethics of keeping the route traditionally protected help avoid the onslaught of people who damage the area, which is what inevitably happens at a sport crag. Plus, as a historical trad crag, bolts aren't an option.
@@jamessimpson8505 Right. As I understand it, it's simply following the ethics that have been established for the area. No bolting in this area, chipping okay at Rifle, etc.
@@tryitout-701 Not on grit though, it has it's own history and mystique that needs to be preserved. If you don't want to climb trad then don't grit's not for you.
6c here refers to British tech grade (i.e. the technical difficulty of the hardest move) rather than a sport grade. E9 6c would convert to somewhere around French 7c given how bold it is, though because it is grit, the conversion is pretty meaningless. Perhaps a 7B-ish friction slab above a deathy fall would capture this route a bit more accurately.
Not falling from the boulder problem further below from where it starts, far below from where it starts (check the position of the belayer and imagine bouncing until you meet him/her).
I bet that cool bandana will save his head better than a helmet on that worthless swinging bolt he's attached to. This guy basically free soloed the thing.
Ok i'm gonna say something super controversial for the UK audience. Just put a bloody bolt in. It's 3 square centimeters of light grey steel on dark gray stone. If you paint it no one will ever know it's here. It damages the rock less than accidentally breaking a hold, you can even pull them out now (and hide the hole with painted glue or something.) I'm perfectly understand the urge to risk one's life weither it's free solo, highball bouldering, or unequipped long trad routes (if my wife hadn't made me promise that I would never free solo, I would probably have free soloed some easy verdon multipitches). But this is (in my humble opinion) silly. You have the gear, you have a belayer, you have the knowledge. No point in risking your life (or career) on this. But hell, sick send. I'm a huge fan. I'll be moving to the midlands soon and I hope I can cross path with Tom and Pete.
Why's that e9? Protected above him for over half the route. A big swing yes, but onto a flat rock protected with a mat. It's undoubtedly hard, but is that really the same severity as the big issues? Nope.
Must feel weird walking to the crag with a crash pad, two ropes and no quickdraws😂
«I’m alive » is not the reaction I want to have after I finish a climb
That looks like bouldering with extra steps. Love it!
I think my favourite part of this, is that he still used double ropes 😂
Nic Klever would not have been fun to belay IMO....
Makes sense you want to reduce impact force on the gear and spine as much as possible. Lighter half ropes as well have less rope drag.
Rope is a waist of energy on that route. He should have soloed it...🤣🤣🤣
Insane route
had to pause this while i was eating and watch it when i finished, felt i was doing a disservice to mr brown cow by looking away
Literally just had the same experience.
Impressive!
sorry is this a joke? E9 6C, Without a Helmet?
If you ask me the chalk stands out more than a few wise little bolts would
Ok, but that's beyond the point. The ethics of keeping the route traditionally protected help avoid the onslaught of people who damage the area, which is what inevitably happens at a sport crag. Plus, as a historical trad crag, bolts aren't an option.
@@jamessimpson8505 Right. As I understand it, it's simply following the ethics that have been established for the area. No bolting in this area, chipping okay at Rifle, etc.
James Simpson this is all bullshit. If you care about the area, bolts are the way to go. Everybody is safer.
@@tryitout-701 Not on grit though, it has it's own history and mystique that needs to be preserved. If you don't want to climb trad then don't grit's not for you.
@@tryitout-701if you care about an area you won’t attract huge crowds to trample the vegetation and litter
Top rope? No! Solo with 2 ropes? Yeah, baby
Yeah but what’s he done on grit?...oh wait
probably not the easiest 6c..
6c here refers to British tech grade (i.e. the technical difficulty of the hardest move) rather than a sport grade. E9 6c would convert to somewhere around French 7c given how bold it is, though because it is grit, the conversion is pretty meaningless. Perhaps a 7B-ish friction slab above a deathy fall would capture this route a bit more accurately.
Wasn’t this years ago?
Yeah, oldie but a goodie!
that's an e20 in my book
So what was the point in the rope?🤣
Not falling from the boulder problem further below from where it starts, far below from where it starts (check the position of the belayer and imagine bouncing until you meet him/her).
point of ancorage, better to swing back onto where the mat is roughly than fall strait down
I bet that cool bandana will save his head better than a helmet on that worthless swinging bolt he's attached to. This guy basically free soloed the thing.
Ok i'm gonna say something super controversial for the UK audience.
Just put a bloody bolt in.
It's 3 square centimeters of light grey steel on dark gray stone. If you paint it no one will ever know it's here.
It damages the rock less than accidentally breaking a hold, you can even pull them out now (and hide the hole with painted glue or something.)
I'm perfectly understand the urge to risk one's life weither it's free solo, highball bouldering, or unequipped long trad routes (if my wife hadn't made me promise that I would never free solo, I would probably have free soloed some easy verdon multipitches).
But this is (in my humble opinion) silly. You have the gear, you have a belayer, you have the knowledge. No point in risking your life (or career) on this.
But hell, sick send. I'm a huge fan. I'll be moving to the midlands soon and I hope I can cross path with Tom and Pete.
Indians head? Some ace biking here. That looked scary.
Magic wood landing be like:
Free solo
One or two bolt and the route it was be nice. Now it strange...
This is harder than Lattice Climbing
Why's that e9? Protected above him for over half the route. A big swing yes, but onto a flat rock protected with a mat. It's undoubtedly hard, but is that really the same severity as the big issues? Nope.
I bet that mat looks tiny going through the top moves on that. Shudder
Im here just because of the "with dead". Im glad hes not
Probably should be wearing a helmet
Wear a helmet kids.
Why don't you put bolts when you can put chalk on the rock? Make very little sense to me...
Chalk washes off in the rain, bolts irreparably change the nature of the climb.
All this drama for a 6C?
Be cool, buy a helmet.
Just bolt the damm thing.
Yawn, just another high ball. If you brits cant hack it and need the rope just go ahead and top rope it instead 😎
@@ernestzeus8302 she would enjoy that encounter more than you would like her to. 😘
Tbf I don't even know jack about climbing 😅
yum, tasty bait.
Does this qualify as hard grit?