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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2019
- Choronzon at Pembroke in Wales takes a swaggering line up an intimidating overhanging wall. If bolted, it would weigh in at a pumpy 8b+. But it’s not: you have to fiddle your own gear in, giving it the huge trad grade of E10 7a, and making it one of the hardest trad routes in the UK.
In this film (originally on BMC TV), Steve McClure makes the second ascent in July 2015. Read more here: www.thebmc.co.uk/pembroke-dem...
WATCH: Neil Mawson make the first ascent: • First ascent one of UK...
WATCH: More rock inspiration: • Rock inspiration
#climbing #e10
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Watching him top out on handfuls of grass clearly shows it's an E10 :-)
Great to see really solid climbing with no heroics, safety first and respecting the climb with proper safety all the way up. Really enjoyed listening to the thought processes of a top class climber and how he approaches a climb.
hard not to love Steve, such a humorous guy. Just in it for the love.
My right ear thanks you for this production. :p
It is unbearable... :\
It is unbearable... :\
I love how Steve climbs E10 in unlaced shoes. Love it!
One of the world's great mysteries.
@@teamBMCTV has anyone ever asked him why?
@@hughthornbery7883 He said he only does it on easy routes. When he finds something hard enough, he'll finally lace them up.
@@teamBMCTV Bloody hell... his standard for "hard" must be out of this world. HAHA. I mean he spent the whole damn video rambling on about how sketchy this route was ! Anyhow, swell vid. THANKS
Jeremy Wassenaar to be fair, depends on the fit of the shoe. For example, I do not need to lace my miuras unless I intend to do very aggressive heelhooking, they literally do not move on my foot at all on any size holds. I’m pretty sure SteMac will have his Blanco sizing down to a science.
The Grassy run out looks the most scary Part .. :-)
Crowley's demon pulls up a chair!💀 ....another amazing film. Insane control under extremis🤓💪
That was awesome. Great job!
Good old bit of UK trad grass pulling! hahahah
HYPE for the untied massive!!!
unlace the shoes and unlace the mind
some funky holds for the top out
I think Steve should take a trip to the Ratikon or Naranja de Bullnes. It would be amazing to see him in any of those locations.
Forgot to cut the audio for half the scenes?
Steve looking like barry chuckle in his helmet haha
I think ive watched no climbing video filmed in britain that does not include a 'wet day' xD
great!
"It looks stunning!" - it certainly does :D
If you’re gonna grab grass, grab lots!
unlaced shoes.. rope in the way.. wet holds.. I think he can climb E100 when preparing properly.. xD
Was that music the same they used for the great 90's game 'the secret of monkey island' while you paused game play and stared blankly into the menu
Lol classic
what a sympathetic lad
That was a quick 2nd ascent
"shouldn't break off" :-D
when hes explaining headpointing vs trad climbing, does he mean that trad is generally done onsight with gear being placed without rehearsal? i always thought trad was just anything done on gear instead of bolts. or is headpointing a subcategory of trad?
Headpointing is where the route is attempted before by learning the moves and/or where the gear goes. Then stripping all the gear and climbing it clean on lead while placing the gear. On sighting involves leading the route clean with no prior knowledge of moves/gear placements.
This is correct, trad climbing is just what climbing was before sport climbing came along. And previewing a route before a lead wasn't part of it. Climbing was supposed to be ground up.
A route can be bolted traditionally, for example. There are loads of bolted climbs that existed before sport climbing came about, and many of them aren't well bolted enough to be considered sport climbs. They're trad climbs. Trad is an ethic and a style, and head pointing isn't part of it.
Steve McCojones
Why’s Steve got orange peel on his head?
Not the hardest route in the Wales, I think the Meltdown is 9a
Yup, hardest slab in the world, maybe hardest (one of?) for trad?
Trad rap!
Didn't even tie his shoes!
Great audio... please edit it and reupload
333
Clipped the pre placed runner after he freed the top rope, don't count.
How funny is it that most brits prefer 5.10 American shoes and most Americans prefer European brands like scarpa evolve and La Sportiva
How is that E10 with all that good gear?
8b+ w/"OK" gear
Get on it and find out.
Bruh he was on take, that’s not a free ascent