I have the same damn issue yet to replace my radiator my transmission temps will get to 180 to 190 and at idle it will randomly over heat tired of it I’ll try and replace that cap and tank while I’m doing the radiator
hope it works. I still have a random overheat but not as often as it was. I found an old hose clap that was weak and replaced that, It has helped but still chasing something. Its like the new pressure from the new pump has just thrown everything out of whack. At least I can manage it now and it is not happening every time! Maybe once every couple of weeks. I just top off the tank when cool and I am good.
It sounds like you covered a lot of things, that's a pressure cap usually their rated to 16 psi. One thing I've run into with those gen 3, 4 engines with high mileage is that little steam pipe (3mm/ 1/8" l.D. so it doesn't take to plug them)that's connected to both front area of the cylinder heads gets plugged along the coolant reservoir inlet where pipe feeds into it creates basically a big steam bubble that can't purge from the engine into the reservoir which can cause a restriction in the inlet flow and that steam can't purge through the thermostat being it's located in the bottom hose. Another issue I've seen (not that common) is being how the cooling system is designed (reverse flow) the small passages in the head gaskets (there progressive, small to large being there's no cyl.head crossover)towards the front of the engine get restricted or plugged reducing coolant flow. From the head to the block. Worst case would be to remove the cylinder heads and manually clean out those passages and of course replace the head gaskets.When you replaced the water pump it's recommended to do power flush in order to rid the cooling system of any possible debris that may cause blockage. Bottom up and top down. One other issue I've seen is that tranny can be running hotter than normal (normal tranny temp is around 180-220° when trannies run hot it's usually caused by internal slippage.) being where the cooler is located in the radiator (engine inlet side or radiator outlet) it basically reheats the coolant going back into the engine. Do mean to ramble on, but those are some of issues I've run into when l was a mechanic.
Wow that's a lot to cover, Nice info provided! The one thing that I cant get over is how the system Boils over when the temp gauge sensor went out considering the system is all mechanical, as far as I can tell... mechanical water pump and thermostat.. So what's the deal with that? Tranny seems to be running fine. 185-203 depending on load. I'll have to look for the passages.
Good video and intel on ur findings. starting to experience ur frustrations. Smh. Tru cool 40k tranny cooler ur baby! Drops temps up to 30 degrees. Got my chinese ko and its done great so far. Dont bypass ur rad keep it included. Im in TXs and it helps a ton. Thank u would use ur advise. 👍
I have the same damn issue yet to replace my radiator my transmission temps will get to 180 to 190 and at idle it will randomly over heat tired of it I’ll try and replace that cap and tank while I’m doing the radiator
hope it works. I still have a random overheat but not as often as it was. I found an old hose clap that was weak and replaced that, It has helped but still chasing something. Its like the new pressure from the new pump has just thrown everything out of whack. At least I can manage it now and it is not happening every time! Maybe once every couple of weeks. I just top off the tank when cool and I am good.
It sounds like you covered a lot of things, that's a pressure cap usually their rated to 16 psi. One thing I've run into with those gen 3, 4 engines with high mileage is that little steam pipe (3mm/ 1/8" l.D. so it doesn't take to plug them)that's connected to both front area of the cylinder heads gets plugged along the coolant reservoir inlet where pipe feeds into it creates basically a big steam bubble that can't purge from the engine into the reservoir which can cause a restriction in the inlet flow and that steam can't purge through the thermostat being it's located in the bottom hose. Another issue I've seen (not that common) is being how the cooling system is designed (reverse flow) the small passages in the head gaskets (there progressive, small to large being there's no cyl.head crossover)towards the front of the engine get restricted or plugged reducing coolant flow. From the head to the block. Worst case would be to remove the cylinder heads and manually clean out those passages and of course replace the head gaskets.When you replaced the water pump it's recommended to do power flush in order to rid the cooling system of any possible debris that may cause blockage. Bottom up and top down. One other issue I've seen is that tranny can be running hotter than normal (normal tranny temp is around 180-220° when trannies run hot it's usually caused by internal slippage.) being where the cooler is located in the radiator (engine inlet side or radiator outlet) it basically reheats the coolant going back into the engine. Do mean to ramble on, but those are some of issues I've run into when l was a mechanic.
Wow that's a lot to cover, Nice info provided! The one thing that I cant get over is how the system Boils over when the temp gauge sensor went out considering the system is all mechanical, as far as I can tell... mechanical water pump and thermostat.. So what's the deal with that? Tranny seems to be running fine. 185-203 depending on load. I'll have to look for the passages.
Good video and intel on ur findings. starting to experience ur frustrations. Smh.
Tru cool 40k tranny cooler ur baby! Drops temps up to 30 degrees. Got my chinese ko and its done great so far. Dont bypass ur rad keep it included. Im in TXs and it helps a ton. Thank u would use ur advise. 👍
Great video! Good job and thanks.
Glad you liked it! Was a frustrating thing to go through! Hope it saves others from the same.