She is coming together nicely. As I have watched you build this beautiful ship you have been able to overcome pretty much everything that it has thrown at you. I am very confident that you will overcome the few remaining issues you have remaining. This continues to be an amazing experience watching you throughout this project. I am looking forward to seeing you complete this build.
Thank you for a really nice comment. Feels like we are on the last lap now! I look forward to finishing the build but I wonder what I’ll fill my time with after!
Hi Rob that light bleed is a little annoying but as you say not a disaster and easy to fix. Baking foil makes a nice black out too. You could make tiny lenses for your deck lights by making spots of transparent glue on grease proof paper. Thanks to you I can pre-empt the light bleed on the deck bridge and sort that out without having to revisit that area. Good video as usual! Regards JH
Hi Johnny, Yes it’s a right pain, I think I have solved it for most areas. But the issue on the aft bridge is a bit more problematic because of the lack of space. I think I will have to try and use foil under the scaledecks there. I was thinking about it using that UV resin for the lenses on the crane bases. There are a few PE parts in the ka set that appear to be surrounds for the lights which should finish the job nicely. I’m still mulling over the domes for the boat deck. I suspect I will relent and get them in the end! Self restraint is harder when I’m this close to the end of the build. Keep yourself well and hope your heating system is going well! Robbie
@@TheModelBoatGuy Rob, I have studied the KA on and off for ages and usually discover new things quite often! I will look out for those light surrounds! Yes, don't relent on buying the domes just yet as I may have some good news for you soon. Watch this space!!!! My lights for the hull will be concealed in a domestic UPVC electrical wire conduit trunking which will supply lighting via fibre optics in the hull. My idea being that it will eliminate virtually all potential light leakage at a stroke. The superstructure etc is of course a different matter! Heating system going well, I live very rural so the temperature drops like a brick! Regards JH 😉
Nice to see the kinda period correct light! You see alot of these things and ww2 tanks with the white blue daylight leds just doesn't look right bit this is great 👍
Thank you for the comment, it’s a difficult balance to strike with these lights! It’s also quite hard to film tbh so I would say these are a wee bit less bright than they come over in the video.
Great video Robbie Have you ever used Tulip fabric black paint for light leaks . You can pick it up easily at Hobbycraft. We use it all the time in Scifi modeling. I have to say this build would appear a lot more overwhelming had it not been for your Videos . Keep up the good work . And keep them coming.
Hi there, Thanks very much. Is that the quite thick black liquid? I think I have used it many years ago but I’d never have thought of it for light bleed issues. I’ll give it a go! Thanks for your comment, it’s just been a case of slow and steady for me this. It’s been a great project over lockdown for sure as it’s kept me from getting bored in the house!
Yea this is something I thought I might make a wee bit brighter than the other lights. As that was an actual navigation light I thought it might be logical to get a brighter LED. As yet I’m still researching into it!
Aye I have, I was flirting with the idea of making that one a bit brighter as it was a navigation light. I haven’t done the necessary research yet but logic would suggest that light would be quite powerful so I might use a stronger LED. Thanks for reminding me though, I am liable to forget things like this!
Nice build so far..Been watching a number of your vids. Just a question about your lighting. You`ve lit every port hole. It seems somewhat extreme.The lighting intensity seems to be somewhat off. Can you dim the lights at all ?
Hi there, I have in a later episode added a switching regulator to the lighting circuit which allows me to dim the LEDs somewhat. I am tempted to add a PWM feed to it as well to allow me to dim further. As you say a lot of portholes lit which is perhaps not accurate, in due course I’m going to go around and black out a few to make her look a bit more realistic
I’ve trialled a few magnet solutions for the deck. Unfortunately the issue is a high enough power magnet to hold the deck in place also makes it too big for me to hide! Because of light bleed issues etc I really need a force holding the decks down that can only be achieved with nuts and bolts really. I am hoping to use magnets for other jobs such as rigging though. Things that don’t rely on as much strength and are likely to be removed frequently.
Just out of curiosity, and I think I 'may' have asked you this before, but I'm not sure, but is there a reason why the back left air vent thing on the upper deck here ( 4:19 ) is slightly off center, and pointing slightly left at almost a 40 degree angle while all the others point straight back? I'm just kind of baffled every time I see it. As always, great vid. Always thrilled when a new one gets posted.
Hi, I don’t remember you asking this before! But to be fair I am in the habit of missing comments at the moment. So the vent is slightly off center because I have seen a few images of it in that position. I think the images were probably Olympic rather than Titanic but I quite liked the lack of symmetry. In reality these ventilators could be swivelled to face into or away from the wind so it’s isn’t a a given that they’d all be pointing aft. But very much a personal choice!
Haha well yes I get that, fair to say this is very much a special occasion RC ship. It won’t be in the lake every day for sure! Just in calm weather once in a while
The 3rd class smoking room and general room were both located under there along with a main stairwell for 3rd class. The aft most section also housed the steering gear and some storage compartments.
Hey there, There were several things, I think people have covered most of them tbh. But the bit directly under the winches was a staircase that lead deep into the ship and served most of the third class accommodation. Aft of that was the third class general room, and the third class smoking room along with a bar. Then the main machinery for the rudder aft of that. And that’s about it really!
So I do cover that a bit in this episode. You see how the boat deck attaches onto A deck. I will be showing my plans for attaching the boat deck housings down onto the deck soon I think
I'm using magic scale moddeling lights on mine I'm adding deck lighting using the leds but I find them a little too bright. I have put a bit of paint on them to get the right colour I want. My question is what can I do or use to tone down the brightness. This whole kit works off a circuit board to sub stations. I was thinking of applying resistors but to be truthful I'm not that sure what I'm doing with electronics so I'm just winging it. Its going great so far but just want to get the brightness down on the deck lights.
You cant really go wrong with resistors - you can add them to either the positve or negative wire and it doesn't matter what way round they go. The higher the ohm value of the resistor the dimmer the light will be. Start with around 300 ohms and adjust to suit.
Hi, yes as Neil King says resistors are pretty simple. Plug and play until you end up with an effect you like. The only thing I would say is if you are cutting wires etc get some heat shrink or something to cover over exposed wire once your done. It will reduce the risk of a short circuit later on. Good luck with it!
Challenging that! It takes ages to record all the footage needed to make a video, and then a fair bit of time to make the video! Once a week is a massive stretch really 😛
She is coming together nicely. As I have watched you build this beautiful ship you have been able to overcome pretty much everything that it has thrown at you. I am very confident that you will overcome the few remaining issues you have remaining. This continues to be an amazing experience watching you throughout this project. I am looking forward to seeing you complete this build.
Thank you for a really nice comment. Feels like we are on the last lap now! I look forward to finishing the build but I wonder what I’ll fill my time with after!
My parents are thinking of getting me the trumpeter model for Christmas I think. Let's hope they do!
Well fingers crossed, it’s a good model to build for sure
Amazing work hopefully mine turns out just as good when I start building mine thanks for the encouragement I am done a boat before
Hi Rob that light bleed is a little annoying but as you say not a disaster and easy to fix. Baking foil makes a nice black out too. You could make tiny lenses for your deck lights by making spots of transparent glue on grease proof paper. Thanks to you I can pre-empt the light bleed on the deck bridge and sort that out without having to revisit that area. Good video as usual! Regards JH
Hi Johnny,
Yes it’s a right pain, I think I have solved it for most areas. But the issue on the aft bridge is a bit more problematic because of the lack of space. I think I will have to try and use foil under the scaledecks there.
I was thinking about it using that UV resin for the lenses on the crane bases. There are a few PE parts in the ka set that appear to be surrounds for the lights which should finish the job nicely.
I’m still mulling over the domes for the boat deck. I suspect I will relent and get them in the end! Self restraint is harder when I’m this close to the end of the build.
Keep yourself well and hope your heating system is going well!
Robbie
@@TheModelBoatGuy Rob, I have studied the KA on and off for ages and usually discover new things quite often! I will look out for those light surrounds! Yes, don't relent on buying the domes just yet as I may have some good news for you soon. Watch this space!!!! My lights for the hull will be concealed in a domestic UPVC electrical wire conduit trunking which will supply lighting via fibre optics in the hull. My idea being that it will eliminate virtually all potential light leakage at a stroke. The superstructure etc is of course a different matter! Heating system going well, I live very rural so the temperature drops like a brick! Regards JH 😉
Good job
Nice to see the kinda period correct light! You see alot of these things and ww2 tanks with the white blue daylight leds just doesn't look right bit this is great 👍
Thank you for the comment, it’s a difficult balance to strike with these lights! It’s also quite hard to film tbh so I would say these are a wee bit less bright than they come over in the video.
Great video Robbie
Have you ever used Tulip fabric black paint for light leaks . You can pick it up easily at Hobbycraft. We use it all the time in Scifi modeling.
I have to say this build would appear a lot more overwhelming had it not been for your Videos . Keep up the good work . And keep them coming.
Hi there,
Thanks very much. Is that the quite thick black liquid? I think I have used it many years ago but I’d never have thought of it for light bleed issues. I’ll give it a go!
Thanks for your comment, it’s just been a case of slow and steady for me this. It’s been a great project over lockdown for sure as it’s kept me from getting bored in the house!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yes it is a thick black liquid. Basically a fabric paint .
I know exactly what you mean now, I haven’t used it since school but now you say it that’s a very good idea!
Looks great. Don't forget about your poop deck railing light if your putting one on. Just thought you might want to plan ahead if your doing it. 😉
Yea this is something I thought I might make a wee bit brighter than the other lights. As that was an actual navigation light I thought it might be logical to get a brighter LED. As yet I’m still researching into it!
Another great session
Have you thought about the light on railings at the back of the poop deck?
Aye I have, I was flirting with the idea of making that one a bit brighter as it was a navigation light. I haven’t done the necessary research yet but logic would suggest that light would be quite powerful so I might use a stronger LED.
Thanks for reminding me though, I am liable to forget things like this!
Nice build so far..Been watching a number of your vids. Just a question about your lighting. You`ve lit every port hole. It seems somewhat extreme.The lighting intensity seems to be somewhat off. Can you dim the lights at all ?
Hi there,
I have in a later episode added a switching regulator to the lighting circuit which allows me to dim the LEDs somewhat. I am tempted to add a PWM feed to it as well to allow me to dim further.
As you say a lot of portholes lit which is perhaps not accurate, in due course I’m going to go around and black out a few to make her look a bit more realistic
Use magnets to hold your decks in place
I’ve trialled a few magnet solutions for the deck. Unfortunately the issue is a high enough power magnet to hold the deck in place also makes it too big for me to hide!
Because of light bleed issues etc I really need a force holding the decks down that can only be achieved with nuts and bolts really.
I am hoping to use magnets for other jobs such as rigging though. Things that don’t rely on as much strength and are likely to be removed frequently.
Just out of curiosity, and I think I 'may' have asked you this before, but I'm not sure, but is there a reason why the back left air vent thing on the upper deck here ( 4:19 ) is slightly off center, and pointing slightly left at almost a 40 degree angle while all the others point straight back? I'm just kind of baffled every time I see it. As always, great vid. Always thrilled when a new one gets posted.
Hi, I don’t remember you asking this before! But to be fair I am in the habit of missing comments at the moment.
So the vent is slightly off center because I have seen a few images of it in that position. I think the images were probably Olympic rather than Titanic but I quite liked the lack of symmetry.
In reality these ventilators could be swivelled to face into or away from the wind so it’s isn’t a a given that they’d all be pointing aft.
But very much a personal choice!
Makes Me Cringe when You put all that work in the water! Awsome job
Haha well yes I get that, fair to say this is very much a special occasion RC ship. It won’t be in the lake every day for sure! Just in calm weather once in a while
Whats the rooms under the poop deck used for none of the titanics cutaway diagrams ive seen ever show it.
@@marcush2220 was it crew cabins or third class?
@@chasechildress2720 yes , what I think allso the most easy cabins with the beds attached too the slope wall.
@@chasechildress2720 yes I believe so.
The 3rd class smoking room and general room were both located under there along with a main stairwell for 3rd class. The aft most section also housed the steering gear and some storage compartments.
Hey there,
There were several things, I think people have covered most of them tbh. But the bit directly under the winches was a staircase that lead deep into the ship and served most of the third class accommodation. Aft of that was the third class general room, and the third class smoking room along with a bar. Then the main machinery for the rudder aft of that. And that’s about it really!
When you set the boat on a deck please explain how to lowered the boat
reply me
So I do cover that a bit in this episode. You see how the boat deck attaches onto A deck.
I will be showing my plans for attaching the boat deck housings down onto the deck soon I think
I'm using magic scale moddeling lights on mine I'm adding deck lighting using the leds but I find them a little too bright. I have put a bit of paint on them to get the right colour I want. My question is what can I do or use to tone down the brightness. This whole kit works off a circuit board to sub stations. I was thinking of applying resistors but to be truthful I'm not that sure what I'm doing with electronics so I'm just winging it. Its going great so far but just want to get the brightness down on the deck lights.
You cant really go wrong with resistors - you can add them to either the positve or negative wire and it doesn't matter what way round they go. The higher the ohm value of the resistor the dimmer the light will be. Start with around 300 ohms and adjust to suit.
@@NeilGKing that's great. Thanks very much Neil much appreciated. Just ordered a box of multi resistors. I will take your advice 👌😀
Hi, yes as Neil King says resistors are pretty simple. Plug and play until you end up with an effect you like.
The only thing I would say is if you are cutting wires etc get some heat shrink or something to cover over exposed wire once your done. It will reduce the risk of a short circuit later on.
Good luck with it!
please , make a video on how to you make lifeboat special video
I will cover the lifeboats in a single episode yeah. Shouldn’t be too long now, I’m not that far off getting into those parts of the ship
Please make titanic build videos everyday
Err no. He can't
Challenging that! It takes ages to record all the footage needed to make a video, and then a fair bit of time to make the video! Once a week is a massive stretch really 😛