Perfect timing. Going to watch this video and then install my heater this weekend. With some of your modifications I'm going to use it to heat my garage, bake bread, forge steel to make medieval swords, and power the world's largest Hadron Collider.
😂 Just remember that if your fire gets too big the neighbours will probably not thank you for the heat, but just complain about their melted window frames.
21:23 Harkening back to my follow up on the last video, it would appear the heat exchanger is soaking so much heat from the air, the exhaust has become the "glow plug" or a "hot surface ignitor" in HVAC concepts. In my scrap builds, I have either used a wick with forced air, or a siphon/gravity feed with either a torch for a short run, or a targeted flame point that will be glowing red hot and ignite the fuel. This is based on the concept NOBOX7 does with his burners. Great channel for more custom stuff versus modifying the diesel heater, but it can still be used for concepts and background research.
Yeah... the exhaust is acting as the burn tube ... it seems to be working really well, other than just tossing all the heat out of my ventilation system, haha. I have watched a few of NOBO7 videos now... interesting stuff.
13:05 Just want to toss this out there: Fiberglass. Not batt insulation, but if you have or can get fiberglass in a sheet or roll (such as one would use for auto repairs with resin), maybe pack a bit in where you are testing the coils. It is absorbent, wicking, breathable, and can sustain high temperatures. I use this a lot in my scrap builds. I need to eat more food to have more cans to work with, but I have a good build coming up. Without funds for Argon, my TIG welder is no-go, so I'm going to make a double insulated burn tube - so it doesn't have to be leak-tight. The outer layer will reside in a water bath, with a 1/2" irrigation pipe coiled inside a reservoir - such that domestic water is kept separate, maybe even some additives in the exchanger so the water doesn't go stale. Getting the heat from the inner tube to the outer will be a challenge. I'm thinking steel wool packed, or maybe a water recirculation loop. Not quite sure yet. After this video I'll be in the garage tinkering with phase 1 concepts.
I have fibreglass and carbon fibre... I work with it a little on my other channel. I did play with this a little and should have some videos soon. Damn argon being so expensive... I'm almost out and it's over $90 for a refill ... yikes. That's a neat idea... double walled burn tube / chamber... Hmmm. Oh, I see... you're making a water heater/ boiler setup...
The whole burn chamber needs to be constructed and run like a torpedo type heater to get a hotter flame. It would have to be made out of stainless steel to take the heat (aluminum will just melt of course) Maybe the entire heater needs to be re-enginieered?
Yeah, I have been trying to come up with a system that is a little more like a torpedo heater. Aluminum melts at lower temps than steel, but it is also able to transfer heat much more quickly. This is why they are able to use aluminum pistons in engines. A piston made of steel would resist heat more, but would melt because it can't get rid of the heat fast enough.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Just making the unit larger (larger motor and burn chamber) would be alot better. More CFMs would be better. Not neccessarily hotter so the aluminum would still work.
@@PainterD54 I agree, I have been wanting to build a custom unit with 3 or 4 chambers, haha. However, if I go full custom it makes more sense to use a SNA nozzle, like a torpedo heater and just make a mini torpedo heater.
It's a pity it is a pain to take the burn chamber apart, if it had a bayonet fitting instead of the bolts holding down the head of the unit it could simply be twisted and taken apart to clean it then you could get away with burning any fuel but have to clean it out every day.@@loweredexpectations4927
If you had 15'-20' of that glowing red exhaust coiled up,you could put a fan behind it and use it for heat. (Thanks for doing these tests so we don't have to.)
I cool my exhaust down by letting it swirl downward inside a 60l oil barrel. Doesn't get too hot though. Would give an impressive shop heater, when glowing red.
Haha... yes... this actually could be a effective way of dealing with the whole problem... Now I want to try that test !! At one point did you see how clean the flame was coming out... it was almost all blue, haha. I seriously wonder if I just had another few feet of pipe and then another heat extractor or sorts, if it would burn waste oil like this. I feel like the soot would get burnt up in that exhaust... it sure is hot.
lol, if you had that much heat going through it the pipe wouldn't last very long, although it would be totally soot free 🤣But yeh, if you cooled it down you gonna get soot especially with veg oil.@@loweredexpectations4927
12:27 It just occurred to me that the undesired buildup ash / afterburn deposits are the effect of the oils contaminants? Perhaps a good level of filtration might bring you closer to an independent "used oil" supply. A guy with your "know how" would have a fine filtration system built by next Friday. 👍🏻 Here's your opportunity to direct me to the video of you doing just that. 🤨 Cheers hahaha
LOL... I have never ultra filtered my oil or ran it through a centrifuge, but I had a lot of people telling me it was my dirty oil ... so I used some brand new oil ... Here is the video of that. 🤣 th-cam.com/video/i60-rwU9rUk/w-d-xo.html
@@loweredexpectations4927 nah . My videos are disasters. The warming finger ring was a good idea. check out how the burner of a whisperlite camp stove works or BRS-8
For all this chamber testing need a new burner. Cut the weld like you did on this one so it will come apart. Cut the heat exchanger off so you can see the burn in the chamber. Video the new one as a starting point. Then see what burns how.
Great ideas... I just ordered a new chamber yesterday, but I'm sure it will take weeks to arrive. I started building my own experimental burn chamber last night. I have had the suggestion to cut the end off the heat exchanger, from a few people... In order for it to have comparable results to a factory unit, the opening would have to be capped off with tempered glass and sealed so that the exhaust still goes out the exhaust hole.
@@loweredexpectations4927 This setup would not be a temp test. It would be a burner flame test. If you think it would need it put some insulation around the tube. If you can perfect the burn the heat will come if it is there.
@@TheCritterWindow Yes, what I'm trying to say is that, with an opening in the end of the heat exchanger, the flame in the burn chamber would be altered. Not only would I be altering the flow if the gasses through the heater, but also allowing much of the heat to exit out the end where it normally travels back along the outside of the burn tube either heating or cooling the tube. Without the end of the exchanger sealed off, the results would not be the same.
@@TheCritterWindow I'm not trying to win an argument, haha... but I think that's probably accurate. One of my viewers, Lance, has been playing with injecting air and has a few videos, and he has the end of his exchanger chopped ... I will post his link below... if youtube lets me. www.youtube.com/@lanceulbrich6249
Ok so along the lines of my thought of doubling the length of the combustion chamber. And maybe you’ve done it. I’m still binging the series. What about getting a stainless pipe of bigger diameter welding a cap on the end with a screw down the middle to hold it centered over the original chamber, facing backwards affectively doubling the size of the burn chamber, but without increasing the size of the heat exchanger?
There are a few issues with this modification. First is that there is very little clearance between the burn chamber tube and the heat exchanger. The second issue is that for the heat to get into the air, it needs to make contact with the heat exchanger, and this happens more efficiently at higher temperature differentials. Currently the flame exits the inside end of the burn tube, turns 180º and travels along the exchanger before exiting the exhaust.... preferably having as much of that heat as possible enter your air space instead of going out the exhaust. If I understand your idea, it would heat the chamber well, but at the cost of dumping a lot of heat out the exhaust. To correct this, you would then need a third tube to direct the heat back to the other end and allow it to still make contact with the heat exchanger. Hope this makes sense.
It does. Just a thought I wasn’t sure how much extra space there was between the heat exchanger and chamber. I wonder if you could find an outer sleeve were made from stainless mesh or screen would hold the flame around the outside of the chamber making for a flame Screen still slowing heat out before being directed towards the exhaust. I remember you saying you had thought of a flame screen but didn’t have any. Again space is limited so perhaps not. Just trying to think outside the box for another view
We should be working on a Canadian waste oil heater that looks like Chinese diesel heater. It's gonna sell like rum for a drunken sailor as long as it is cheap like Chinese diesel heater.
Wben we had our shops heated with waste oil burners decades ago, when this was legal and winters in southern Bavara still were quite long and cold - we were constantly short on waste oil and had to burn diesel instead half of the time 🤣
@@werner.x Yeah... If.. . COUGH... I mean "when" this works out for me, I will likely burn through my supply and have to find more... When that happens I'd probably go looking for veg oil, to be honest.
True, there simply isn't enough oil for all of us to do these mad things. Think about it, cars and trucks only get serviced once or twice a year and you only get max a gallon of oil each time. I need a gallon of oil every day!@@loweredexpectations4927
You could do one other test before scrapping your heater. You know this old mechanics trick to clean combustion chambers and crusted valves by pouring brake fluid into the carburator whilst revving the engine? Always produced an impressive cloud of smoke, which obviously "prooved", that it workes. We had no endoscopes for verification back in the times - but i seriously doubted, that brakefluid does any cleaning. But everybody else i met, was a fim believer. Adding old brake fluid to waste motor oil is the one important test, that is missing - to solve the crusty problem once for all - and to show another way to avoid disposal fees. Don't know though, if both fluids blend or if an emulsifier is needed.
I've never heard the brake fluid story... surprising. I've heard everything else, atf, antifreeze, water, WD40... Brake fluid is corrosive (??) and it does eat paint off...so maybe ? I think I have some brake fluid... Maybe I will give that a try, haha. If nothing else, it will be amusing.
looks like a lot of fun, have you considered running the waste oil through a centrifuge to clean it before you burn it, not to sure how you would fund it, maybe you could borrow one ? maybe try pumping the oil through some 5 micron swimming pool filters, I used to clean used veg oil with swiming pool filters before putting it into my peugeot 2.0 litre common rail car diesel engine. a cheaper way to do it could be to heat the waste oil up in a 205 gallon drum and let it settle until it cools down then take the good stuff off the top. Ive seen a guy on youtube cleaning transmission fluid for reuse with a centrifuge and it came up 100% clean it even took the water out of it. That Ultrasonic cleaner will make the older mower carbs look like brand new. There is a lot of good info on youtube telling you which is the best cleaning solution to use for different cleaning jobs.
Hey, thanks for the comment. I have considered filtering my oil better and or building a centrifuge. However, before doing that, I decided to test my heater on a brand new oil mix (instead of waste oil) ... If you haven't seen that video... this is a spoiler... It turned out about the same. Link posted below if youtube lets me. The main issue with burning oil is that it needs a LOT more temperature to flash off and burn well. I have made some progress in this area, but the experiments in this particular video were all a fail, haha. You win some and lose some. Thanks for the advice on the Ultrasonic cleaner... I have been and will be watching lots of videos on it and doing lots of testing myself. Thanks ! th-cam.com/video/i60-rwU9rUk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=LoweredExpectations
I'm pretty sure you already know that but the solution to all your problems would probably be to vaporize the oil by spraying it through a fine nozzle. The problem with this is that you would need a much stronger fuel pump (maybe steal one from a direct injection diesel engine?)
Yeah... I'm currently working on a system to do something along these lines. The biggest issue with injecting fuel into these heaters is that the use an insanely miniscule amount of fuel. This means that trying to increase or decrease the fuel feed by 5%, for example, would mean changing flow by .45 of a milliliter per minute. If you break that down to volume per second, that's .0075 ml per second. Injectors from a 6hp engine would be about 10 times too much fuel at the lowers setting. This is why these heaters use dosing pumps with a set volume per stroke. To try to get some atomization, what I have been doing is feeding air pressure with the fuel, ising the air to atomize. Based on the results from this, I am attempting to build my own burn chamber head 👍
@@Ultrazaubererger Yeah, tiny amount of fuel... and the numbers I gave you were for the highest setting running the pump at 7hz. I'm hopeful that my idea will work.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Just a random thought: Could you also pulse it like its done in cars? Might lead to too much stress in the materials due to the pressure changes in the burner each time fuel is injected and burns but might be worth a shot.
@@Ultrazaubererger I had someone suggest pulsing the air opposite the pulse of the pump to avoid feedback pressure... seems like a good idea. I don't know for sure, but pulsing may be better as it could reduce the amount of build up due to the fluctuation in pressure and temp.
Yes... aluminum melts at relatively low temperatures, but it is also really good at transferring heat. Aluminum pistons are able to withstand very high pressures and temperatures, as they are able to transfer their heat to the cylinder walls / water jackets.
Yes your stoichiometric are getting maybe try change intake air temperature because it could be getting diluted by ambient water vapor Duh leaner you go will burn hotter
haha... I can't make heads or tails of your comment, for some reason. Leaner isn't always hotter tho. At some point you have too much air and it cools things off.
Indeed, but they do say blue flame is hottest and the best but that has to be a rich mixture to get the blue flame, yet you can quite easily melt steel with a yellow flame, it's very weird!@@loweredexpectations4927
Do you have a way I could mail you a turbine from an old T25 turbo I have laying around? That would hold up to far higher temps than the other stuff is failing at and should reintroduce some swirling to the burn chamber.
I feel bad for accepting, but I won't refuse. I have put my email address at the bottom of the description of this video. If you email me I can send you my address. Cheers !
This is only available on controllers with the blue digits. You power the heater up and then press the upper right button once. COntrollers with the red digits are better controllers, but they do not display this info.
Are you going to be testing the ultra sonic tank? Like show how it works, what you can all do with it? Like, does it remove paint off engine parts? Can you put whatever kind of chemical in them? I don't know much at all about ultra tanks, but maybe I need one. 🤣😂 I'm very excited to see what happens with that Cat. Great series man.
Yes... I will be doing a lame unboxing / testing video soon... In that video I will be cleaning all sorts of stuff. Then in other less lame videos I will be using it on specific projects and probably doing some dedicated videos about my experience using it. I'm sure you can probably get a paint stripper that dilutes in water, and then use it in the US cleaner... Interesting idea. You can put just about any chemical in them, yes. US cleaners are great for cleaning stuff that you would have to sand and wire brush, otherwise. Bolts, washers, brackets... but also great for carburetors, engine cases heads etc. They use sound waves to clean, so it will clean the inside of things that you can't see or access. Haha.. yesh, thanks for the cat ... BJ gave me some 550 parts the other week... Reed valve cylinders and a head.... I haven't had time to check them out, so I'm not sure if they are any good... If they are you're welcome to them.
@@loweredexpectations4927 looking forward to it! And heck yeah I'll take parts for that money pit! Ha ha. I literally just received the crank today, well I got home today and it was here. I dropped off my cylinders at Jim's about 2 weeks ago, he said he might be a month to two to get to it. So fingers crossed I get it before the ice melts! I'm gonna do a good squish measure on it without the base gasket, see if I can put it together that way. :) So excited!!!
@@dustinwild Wow... that's a long wait time for the cylinders... he must be busy with snowmobile stuff.... When I brought mine it was pretty quick. If you don't use a base gasket you gain a little compression but lose a little exhaust timing ... but I'm guessing that it is a good trade off and that you have more than enough squish !
@@loweredexpectations4927 yeah, he had a pile of snow stuff piled up. My question about going without a base gasket, how durable do you think that would be? I'm thinking a cast iron cylinder, with aluminum bottom.... Would that cause a leak over time?
@@dustinwild I'm not sure about corrosion of aluminum when in contact with cast... (galvanic corrosion- I think) You might want to look into that, but otherwise, with a good sealant, it shouldn't be a problem. I've done it plenty of times.
All that trying to get more heat into the burn chamber by putting metal parts in is probably going to fail because of the high temperatures and the oxygen present. Nothing will last in there for a long time in there except maybe ceramics. If it doesn't melt it will burn. The only reason the tube is holding up to it is because it gets cooled from the outside. (The gasses flowing back around through the heat exchanger are already much cooler than the flame inside)
Thanks for another comment. You are mostly correct, perhaps totally correct, but from this testing, I can see that not all of the space inside of the burn tube is equally harsh. There are areas in the chamber where the flame is not as intense, and I think perhaps, this is also why the burn tube survives. Dave McLuckie has a video / some videos where he has the end cut off his exchanger and you can see the flame in the tube. If I build something that isn't in the most intense part of the flame, then it could survive. It could be that it is a restriction in a particular area that is causing the rise in temp, and if that is the case, then ceramic could be used. If it is "working" due to heat transfer, then ceramic wouldn't work.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, being on the outside of the flame certainly helps the tube to survive. Not sure what factor is stronger but I am pretty sure the parts in the middle will always just oxidize away. Not all ceramics are a bad heat conductor. Silicon carbide for example has 75W/mK, 1.5 times that of steel. Most are not as good as steel but it might be worth it for the longevity since they don't oxidize. The main problem is how to shape it with standard tools.
LOL... I suppose. The purpose of the video is to show that burning waste oil is actually a LOT harder than many people make it out to be. This series started because I watched videos of people claiming that you could run it for 3 years before cleaning out carbon.
We're not talking about an engine here. You don't have oil running thru a crank case transferring the heat. I'm just concerned that those who follow your video will cause themselves harm. I'm not trying to be critical, I've redesigned mine in a pelican case, but don't risk my safety. I'm concerned that the government will step in and stop the sale of them. Be safe, don't blow yourself up.
Thanks for the comment ! This seems like a continuation of a conversation we were having, but I don't see any related comments. I'm not sure why you're talkin about transferring heat and this not having a crankcase. I try to be clear in the intro of all of my videos, and verbally express in my videos that what I am doing is experimental and not something that should be copied. It should be clear, from my failures, that these tests are stupid and discourage others from trying. I never sell what I'm doing as a good idea. The government stepping in is always a concern. Generally, this happens when someone can line their pockets based on new licenses, taxes or registrations. I have heard of people installing them in cases and have seen a few videos... what have you done with the exhaust ? I recently installed one in a Toyota 4Runner and considered putting it in a case to have it removable, and plumbing the exhaust out... ended up taking a different route. Thanks again for your comment and concern.
Perfect timing. Going to watch this video and then install my heater this weekend. With some of your modifications I'm going to use it to heat my garage, bake bread, forge steel to make medieval swords, and power the world's largest Hadron Collider.
😂 Just remember that if your fire gets too big the neighbours will probably not thank you for the heat, but just complain about their melted window frames.
just make sure it won't create to much thrust and hit 88 mph
I was going to try and say something funny but your comment is brilliant!
Another great Episode 👍 thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment. Appreciated !
@@loweredexpectations4927 Ur welcome bud
21:23 Harkening back to my follow up on the last video, it would appear the heat exchanger is soaking so much heat from the air, the exhaust has become the "glow plug" or a "hot surface ignitor" in HVAC concepts.
In my scrap builds, I have either used a wick with forced air, or a siphon/gravity feed with either a torch for a short run, or a targeted flame point that will be glowing red hot and ignite the fuel.
This is based on the concept NOBOX7 does with his burners. Great channel for more custom stuff versus modifying the diesel heater, but it can still be used for concepts and background research.
th-cam.com/video/P06DjzDQ6cQ/w-d-xo.html
Yeah... the exhaust is acting as the burn tube ... it seems to be working really well, other than just tossing all the heat out of my ventilation system, haha.
I have watched a few of NOBO7 videos now... interesting stuff.
13:05 Just want to toss this out there: Fiberglass. Not batt insulation, but if you have or can get fiberglass in a sheet or roll (such as one would use for auto repairs with resin), maybe pack a bit in where you are testing the coils.
It is absorbent, wicking, breathable, and can sustain high temperatures. I use this a lot in my scrap builds. I need to eat more food to have more cans to work with, but I have a good build coming up. Without funds for Argon, my TIG welder is no-go, so I'm going to make a double insulated burn tube - so it doesn't have to be leak-tight. The outer layer will reside in a water bath, with a 1/2" irrigation pipe coiled inside a reservoir - such that domestic water is kept separate, maybe even some additives in the exchanger so the water doesn't go stale.
Getting the heat from the inner tube to the outer will be a challenge. I'm thinking steel wool packed, or maybe a water recirculation loop. Not quite sure yet. After this video I'll be in the garage tinkering with phase 1 concepts.
I have fibreglass and carbon fibre... I work with it a little on my other channel. I did play with this a little and should have some videos soon.
Damn argon being so expensive... I'm almost out and it's over $90 for a refill ... yikes. That's a neat idea... double walled burn tube / chamber... Hmmm.
Oh, I see... you're making a water heater/ boiler setup...
The whole burn chamber needs to be constructed and run like a torpedo type heater to get a hotter flame. It would have to be made out of stainless steel to take the heat (aluminum will just melt of course) Maybe the entire heater needs to be re-enginieered?
Yeah, I have been trying to come up with a system that is a little more like a torpedo heater. Aluminum melts at lower temps than steel, but it is also able to transfer heat much more quickly. This is why they are able to use aluminum pistons in engines. A piston made of steel would resist heat more, but would melt because it can't get rid of the heat fast enough.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Just making the unit larger (larger motor and burn chamber) would be alot better. More CFMs would be better. Not neccessarily hotter so the aluminum would still work.
@@PainterD54 I agree, I have been wanting to build a custom unit with 3 or 4 chambers, haha. However, if I go full custom it makes more sense to use a SNA nozzle, like a torpedo heater and just make a mini torpedo heater.
It's a pity it is a pain to take the burn chamber apart, if it had a bayonet fitting instead of the bolts holding down the head of the unit it could simply be twisted and taken apart to clean it then you could get away with burning any fuel but have to clean it out every day.@@loweredexpectations4927
If you had 15'-20' of that glowing red exhaust coiled up,you could put a fan behind it and use it for heat. (Thanks for doing these tests so we don't have to.)
I cool my exhaust down by letting it swirl downward inside a 60l oil barrel. Doesn't get too hot though. Would give an impressive shop heater, when glowing red.
Haha... yes... this actually could be a effective way of dealing with the whole problem... Now I want to try that test !! At one point did you see how clean the flame was coming out... it was almost all blue, haha.
I seriously wonder if I just had another few feet of pipe and then another heat extractor or sorts, if it would burn waste oil like this. I feel like the soot would get burnt up in that exhaust... it sure is hot.
I think you had mentioned this before... It would be very interesting to see what would happen if you did this "mod" and then used your barrell ...
lol, if you had that much heat going through it the pipe wouldn't last very long, although it would be totally soot free 🤣But yeh, if you cooled it down you gonna get soot especially with veg oil.@@loweredexpectations4927
test it more!
I will be doing lots more testing.... that's for sure.
12:27 It just occurred to me that the undesired buildup ash / afterburn deposits are the effect of the oils contaminants?
Perhaps a good level of filtration might bring you closer to an independent "used oil" supply. A guy with your "know how" would have a fine filtration system built by next Friday. 👍🏻
Here's your opportunity to direct me to the video of you doing just that. 🤨 Cheers hahaha
LOL... I have never ultra filtered my oil or ran it through a centrifuge, but I had a lot of people telling me it was my dirty oil ... so I used some brand new oil ... Here is the video of that. 🤣
th-cam.com/video/i60-rwU9rUk/w-d-xo.html
I'd say that was a good result if it will burn clean like that all day every day all it needs is a heat exchanger on the exhaust
I never thought of that... but a few people have pointed that out, haha. I wonder ...
9:33 ""You can't bake a cake without cracking a few eggs." 😕 20:55 the oven is preheated 🤣
Yeah... there were a LOT of tests, haha. That was pretty cool when the flames were shooting out !
I like where you are going with this test gives me some rough ideas for a burner
Haha... Really... I thought it was a complete disaster of a video 🤣
@@loweredexpectations4927 nah . My videos are disasters. The warming finger ring was a good idea. check out how the burner of a whisperlite camp stove works or BRS-8
@@lanceulbrich6249 Oh, the warming fingers.... Yes. Potential with the correct design. Hmm, the BRS-8 ... interesting.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I own both those units if you need more info
@@lanceulbrich6249 You're well prepared !! haha.
For all this chamber testing need a new burner. Cut the weld like you did on this one so it will come apart. Cut the heat exchanger off so you can see the burn in the chamber. Video the new one as a starting point. Then see what burns how.
Great ideas... I just ordered a new chamber yesterday, but I'm sure it will take weeks to arrive. I started building my own experimental burn chamber last night. I have had the suggestion to cut the end off the heat exchanger, from a few people... In order for it to have comparable results to a factory unit, the opening would have to be capped off with tempered glass and sealed so that the exhaust still goes out the exhaust hole.
@@loweredexpectations4927 This setup would not be a temp test. It would be a burner flame test. If you think it would need it put some insulation around the tube. If you can perfect the burn the heat will come if it is there.
@@TheCritterWindow Yes, what I'm trying to say is that, with an opening in the end of the heat exchanger, the flame in the burn chamber would be altered. Not only would I be altering the flow if the gasses through the heater, but also allowing much of the heat to exit out the end where it normally travels back along the outside of the burn tube either heating or cooling the tube. Without the end of the exchanger sealed off, the results would not be the same.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Ok I will give you that
@@TheCritterWindow I'm not trying to win an argument, haha... but I think that's probably accurate. One of my viewers, Lance, has been playing with injecting air and has a few videos, and he has the end of his exchanger chopped ... I will post his link below... if youtube lets me.
www.youtube.com/@lanceulbrich6249
Ok so along the lines of my thought of doubling the length of the combustion chamber. And maybe you’ve done it. I’m still binging the series. What about getting a stainless pipe of bigger diameter welding a cap on the end with a screw down the middle to hold it centered over the original chamber, facing backwards affectively doubling the size of the burn chamber, but without increasing the size of the heat exchanger?
There are a few issues with this modification. First is that there is very little clearance between the burn chamber tube and the heat exchanger. The second issue is that for the heat to get into the air, it needs to make contact with the heat exchanger, and this happens more efficiently at higher temperature differentials.
Currently the flame exits the inside end of the burn tube, turns 180º and travels along the exchanger before exiting the exhaust.... preferably having as much of that heat as possible enter your air space instead of going out the exhaust.
If I understand your idea, it would heat the chamber well, but at the cost of dumping a lot of heat out the exhaust. To correct this, you would then need a third tube to direct the heat back to the other end and allow it to still make contact with the heat exchanger.
Hope this makes sense.
It does. Just a thought I wasn’t sure how much extra space there was between the heat exchanger and chamber. I wonder if you could find an outer sleeve were made from stainless mesh or screen would hold the flame around the outside of the chamber making for a flame
Screen still slowing heat out before being directed towards the exhaust. I remember you saying you had thought of a flame screen but didn’t have any. Again space is limited so perhaps not. Just trying to think outside the box for another view
Nice collection of bits and pieces.
They'd make interesting finds for a metal detector channel.
Lol... I should toss them on a beach the next time I'm at one... It would confuse the heck out of whoever found them...
@@loweredexpectations4927 i bet, it will 😂
Steel glows red between 1000 to 1500 deg F
Good to know, and around 1400 it is no longer magnetic.
We should be working on a Canadian waste oil heater that looks like Chinese diesel heater. It's gonna sell like rum for a drunken sailor as long as it is cheap like Chinese diesel heater.
Haha... and have a built in beer koozie .
Wben we had our shops heated with waste oil burners decades ago, when this was legal and winters in southern Bavara still were quite long and cold - we were constantly short on waste oil and had to burn diesel instead half of the time 🤣
@@werner.x Yeah... If.. . COUGH... I mean "when" this works out for me, I will likely burn through my supply and have to find more... When that happens I'd probably go looking for veg oil, to be honest.
True, there simply isn't enough oil for all of us to do these mad things. Think about it, cars and trucks only get serviced once or twice a year and you only get max a gallon of oil each time. I need a gallon of oil every day!@@loweredexpectations4927
You could do one other test before scrapping your heater.
You know this old mechanics trick to clean combustion chambers and crusted valves by pouring brake fluid into the carburator whilst revving the engine?
Always produced an impressive cloud of smoke, which obviously "prooved", that it workes.
We had no endoscopes for verification back in the times - but i seriously doubted, that brakefluid does any cleaning. But everybody else i met, was a fim believer.
Adding old brake fluid to waste motor oil is the one important test, that is missing - to solve the crusty problem once for all - and to show another way to avoid disposal fees.
Don't know though, if both fluids blend or if an emulsifier is needed.
I've never heard the brake fluid story... surprising. I've heard everything else, atf, antifreeze, water, WD40... Brake fluid is corrosive (??) and it does eat paint off...so maybe ?
I think I have some brake fluid... Maybe I will give that a try, haha. If nothing else, it will be amusing.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes, don't pour it into painted steel tanks.
It seems to be a european story then.
And it dates back to carburator days.
@@loweredexpectations4927 we need that proof by experience as much as we need to know, where the aliens in the Roswell ufo came from and went to!
@@werner.x LOL... true.
Just a thought you should try to find some cast iron to make sure parts Cas is high heat tolerant.
I have a few pieces of cast kicking around in my garage from an old flywheel and perhaps something else... I may give that a try. Cheers.
Ever try an actual fuel injector? It would mist the fuel better, but you could never use waste oil with it, because it would clog it up fast!
Yeah, I have thought if this... It would clog, and also it would have to be run at at least 60 PSI to deliver good atomization.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Are there small ones that could fit into the burn chamber?
@@thesurvivalist. You could likely make something work... it would take some doing ...
looks like a lot of fun, have you considered running the waste oil through a centrifuge to clean it before you burn it, not to sure how you would fund it, maybe you could borrow one ? maybe try pumping the oil through some 5 micron swimming pool filters, I used to clean used veg oil with swiming pool filters before putting it into my peugeot 2.0 litre common rail car diesel engine. a cheaper way to do it could be to heat the waste oil up in a 205 gallon drum and let it settle until it cools down then take the good stuff off the top. Ive seen a guy on youtube cleaning transmission fluid for reuse with a centrifuge and it came up 100% clean it even took the water out of it. That Ultrasonic cleaner will make the older mower carbs look like brand new. There is a lot of good info on youtube telling you which is the best cleaning solution to use for different cleaning jobs.
Hey, thanks for the comment.
I have considered filtering my oil better and or building a centrifuge. However, before doing that, I decided to test my heater on a brand new oil mix (instead of waste oil) ... If you haven't seen that video... this is a spoiler... It turned out about the same. Link posted below if youtube lets me.
The main issue with burning oil is that it needs a LOT more temperature to flash off and burn well. I have made some progress in this area, but the experiments in this particular video were all a fail, haha. You win some and lose some.
Thanks for the advice on the Ultrasonic cleaner... I have been and will be watching lots of videos on it and doing lots of testing myself. Thanks !
th-cam.com/video/i60-rwU9rUk/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=LoweredExpectations
Darwin award winner🎉
Don't I have to die to get that award ? I think I was nominated, but not a winner.
What if you put a extra burnchamber. So eksos go like a s?
You mean attach a second burn chamber via and exhaust pipe... Hmmm. Interesting !
I wonder if tungsten would survive.
I think in one of my next videos I will be testing a tungsten from a tig welder to see how it holds up... I've been wondering the same thing.
I'm pretty sure you already know that but the solution to all your problems would probably be to vaporize the oil by spraying it through a fine nozzle.
The problem with this is that you would need a much stronger fuel pump (maybe steal one from a direct injection diesel engine?)
Yeah... I'm currently working on a system to do something along these lines. The biggest issue with injecting fuel into these heaters is that the use an insanely miniscule amount of fuel. This means that trying to increase or decrease the fuel feed by 5%, for example, would mean changing flow by .45 of a milliliter per minute. If you break that down to volume per second, that's .0075 ml per second.
Injectors from a 6hp engine would be about 10 times too much fuel at the lowers setting. This is why these heaters use dosing pumps with a set volume per stroke.
To try to get some atomization, what I have been doing is feeding air pressure with the fuel, ising the air to atomize. Based on the results from this, I am attempting to build my own burn chamber head 👍
@@loweredexpectations4927 I didn't know they used so little fuel. That makes it even more complicated.
But your DIY burn chamber sounds exciting!
@@Ultrazaubererger Yeah, tiny amount of fuel... and the numbers I gave you were for the highest setting running the pump at 7hz. I'm hopeful that my idea will work.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Just a random thought: Could you also pulse it like its done in cars?
Might lead to too much stress in the materials due to the pressure changes in the burner each time fuel is injected and burns but might be worth a shot.
@@Ultrazaubererger I had someone suggest pulsing the air opposite the pulse of the pump to avoid feedback pressure... seems like a good idea. I don't know for sure, but pulsing may be better as it could reduce the amount of build up due to the fluctuation in pressure and temp.
Melting point for aluminum 1221deg F fyi
Yes... aluminum melts at relatively low temperatures, but it is also really good at transferring heat. Aluminum pistons are able to withstand very high pressures and temperatures, as they are able to transfer their heat to the cylinder walls / water jackets.
Yes your stoichiometric are getting maybe try change intake air temperature because it could be getting diluted by ambient water vapor Duh leaner you go will burn hotter
haha... I can't make heads or tails of your comment, for some reason.
Leaner isn't always hotter tho. At some point you have too much air and it cools things off.
Indeed, but they do say blue flame is hottest and the best but that has to be a rich mixture to get the blue flame, yet you can quite easily melt steel with a yellow flame, it's very weird!@@loweredexpectations4927
Do you have a way I could mail you a turbine from an old T25 turbo I have laying around? That would hold up to far higher temps than the other stuff is failing at and should reintroduce some swirling to the burn chamber.
I feel bad for accepting, but I won't refuse. I have put my email address at the bottom of the description of this video. If you email me I can send you my address. Cheers !
How do you get the display to show the casing temperature
This is only available on controllers with the blue digits. You power the heater up and then press the upper right button once. COntrollers with the red digits are better controllers, but they do not display this info.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thank you for the info, so it looks like I wont be able to do this, mine is the other type of controller.
@@victorrowley7494 Yes this is annoying ... I now have the other type that just shows more or less bars for the heat display, and I do not like it.
Are you going to be testing the ultra sonic tank? Like show how it works, what you can all do with it? Like, does it remove paint off engine parts? Can you put whatever kind of chemical in them? I don't know much at all about ultra tanks, but maybe I need one. 🤣😂 I'm very excited to see what happens with that Cat. Great series man.
Yes... I will be doing a lame unboxing / testing video soon... In that video I will be cleaning all sorts of stuff. Then in other less lame videos I will be using it on specific projects and probably doing some dedicated videos about my experience using it.
I'm sure you can probably get a paint stripper that dilutes in water, and then use it in the US cleaner... Interesting idea. You can put just about any chemical in them, yes. US cleaners are great for cleaning stuff that you would have to sand and wire brush, otherwise. Bolts, washers, brackets... but also great for carburetors, engine cases heads etc. They use sound waves to clean, so it will clean the inside of things that you can't see or access.
Haha.. yesh, thanks for the cat ... BJ gave me some 550 parts the other week... Reed valve cylinders and a head.... I haven't had time to check them out, so I'm not sure if they are any good... If they are you're welcome to them.
@@loweredexpectations4927 looking forward to it! And heck yeah I'll take parts for that money pit! Ha ha. I literally just received the crank today, well I got home today and it was here. I dropped off my cylinders at Jim's about 2 weeks ago, he said he might be a month to two to get to it. So fingers crossed I get it before the ice melts! I'm gonna do a good squish measure on it without the base gasket, see if I can put it together that way. :) So excited!!!
@@dustinwild Wow... that's a long wait time for the cylinders... he must be busy with snowmobile stuff.... When I brought mine it was pretty quick. If you don't use a base gasket you gain a little compression but lose a little exhaust timing ... but I'm guessing that it is a good trade off and that you have more than enough squish !
@@loweredexpectations4927 yeah, he had a pile of snow stuff piled up. My question about going without a base gasket, how durable do you think that would be? I'm thinking a cast iron cylinder, with aluminum bottom.... Would that cause a leak over time?
@@dustinwild I'm not sure about corrosion of aluminum when in contact with cast... (galvanic corrosion- I think) You might want to look into that, but otherwise, with a good sealant, it shouldn't be a problem. I've done it plenty of times.
All that trying to get more heat into the burn chamber by putting metal parts in is probably going to fail because of the high temperatures and the oxygen present.
Nothing will last in there for a long time in there except maybe ceramics. If it doesn't melt it will burn.
The only reason the tube is holding up to it is because it gets cooled from the outside.
(The gasses flowing back around through the heat exchanger are already much cooler than the flame inside)
Thanks for another comment.
You are mostly correct, perhaps totally correct, but from this testing, I can see that not all of the space inside of the burn tube is equally harsh. There are areas in the chamber where the flame is not as intense, and I think perhaps, this is also why the burn tube survives.
Dave McLuckie has a video / some videos where he has the end cut off his exchanger and you can see the flame in the tube. If I build something that isn't in the most intense part of the flame, then it could survive.
It could be that it is a restriction in a particular area that is causing the rise in temp, and if that is the case, then ceramic could be used. If it is "working" due to heat transfer, then ceramic wouldn't work.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Yes, being on the outside of the flame certainly helps the tube to survive. Not sure what factor is stronger but I am pretty sure the parts in the middle will always just oxidize away.
Not all ceramics are a bad heat conductor.
Silicon carbide for example has 75W/mK, 1.5 times that of steel.
Most are not as good as steel but it might be worth it for the longevity since they don't oxidize.
The main problem is how to shape it with standard tools.
@@Ultrazaubererger Hmmmm. That's very interesting. I wonder what the stuff in spark plugs is... Thanks for the info !
Ok so what was the purpose of this video? Making a diesel heater less efficient and effective?
LOL... I suppose.
The purpose of the video is to show that burning waste oil is actually a LOT harder than many people make it out to be. This series started because I watched videos of people claiming that you could run it for 3 years before cleaning out carbon.
We're not talking about an engine here. You don't have oil running thru a crank case transferring the heat. I'm just concerned that those who follow your video will cause themselves harm. I'm not trying to be critical, I've redesigned mine in a pelican case, but don't risk my safety. I'm concerned that the government will step in and stop the sale of them. Be safe, don't blow yourself up.
Thanks for the comment ! This seems like a continuation of a conversation we were having, but I don't see any related comments.
I'm not sure why you're talkin about transferring heat and this not having a crankcase.
I try to be clear in the intro of all of my videos, and verbally express in my videos that what I am doing is experimental and not something that should be copied. It should be clear, from my failures, that these tests are stupid and discourage others from trying. I never sell what I'm doing as a good idea.
The government stepping in is always a concern. Generally, this happens when someone can line their pockets based on new licenses, taxes or registrations.
I have heard of people installing them in cases and have seen a few videos... what have you done with the exhaust ? I recently installed one in a Toyota 4Runner and considered putting it in a case to have it removable, and plumbing the exhaust out... ended up taking a different route.
Thanks again for your comment and concern.