To compare filament quality across brands you need to tune for each filament. We don't really gain anything from this comparison other than which ones work best with your current settings.
Agree! He didn't even tune the print temperature, which is essential for every filament. And I think comparing should be done with the same color as well. I've seen major differences between two colors of the same brand
I am not seeing much difference between PETG brands, but I absolutely see big differences from one color to another. This seems to be most pronounced when I switch from a translucent color to a solid one, with solid colors requiring that I print about 20% slower or I get horrible glops and horrible bridges and overhangs. Honestly, my PETG prints look a lot better than yours, and I have found that the most critical thing I must do when printing PETG is SLOW DOWN by reducing the volumetric flow to no more than 12, preferably 10. As I understand it, PETG is a plastic that holds its heat and cools slowly, so if you go fast you will be crossing wet filament and creating strings and gloops everywhere, and bridges will droop. I have also noticed that the part cooling fans are turned up higher when I print PETG.
Do yourself a favor and get an Eiboss filament dryer. They are expensive, but are worth it and they will help you determine how well these filaments print when they are absolutely bone dry. I use one myself and it has been the single best improvement in my printing since I started this hobby.
The overture black PETG likes to print at 255c; higher than stated on the packaging, and higher than other colors of Overture PETG. Bringing the temp up took it from my least favorite to most favorite PETG filament. Bed temp 80c
Been printing with PETG almost exclusively for a year, don't have much experience with the "good stuff", i used eSun in a custom colour a lot because that was what my company ordered and on my own printers i use the absolute cheapest stuff i could find on taobao which was around 70-90 RMB per spool (i don't remember the exact price but thats what i had saved in my cura filament profile). For the longest time i didnt even have a filament dryer and i would just print with wet filament. All i can say is if your your profile (retraction, temp, combing, wiping, coasting) is done well, stringing can be reduced a lot. Even with my whack ass cheap and wet filament i didnt have much stringing. i could even push it to 25.2mm³/s on my klipper printer for infills and inner walls, no problem and even less stringing. With dried filament the results are of course better.
I've had PHENOMINAL results with some random/cheaper filament suppliers that outperformed name brand ones. At this point- I know a couple makers to avoid. And aside from specialty filaments I have great luck with any number of "cheap" filaments under 30 bucks. Heck several under 20😂 I'll drop coin on engineering filaments but petg is my go to cheap do it all filament. I don't use pla EVER.
seems like all of these are pretty useable, maybe the more premium brands needs less tweaking but with enough experience all of them could work i think.
huh. I pay 12,50 per roll of creality pet. Not so much variety of colors but an amazing base finament. Been through my first 4 test spools and ordered 10 more right out of the bat winding is perfect. Love the transparent blue
I know it wasn't in your comparison and this is an older vid, but I just started printing PETG a couple weeks ago. I had really awesome prints using Voxelab's PETG Pro (PETG+) in white. I followed that with SUNLU PETG in Clear and I found it to be a bit more finicky requiring another +5°-10°C on the hotend @240°C. I think you make a good point that transcends FDM 3D printing in general, and that was just pick one and "tune the crap out of it."
ive been seeing people saying overture PETG black likes to be printed hot close to the 250+ range but i have a roll that ive been running tests on and it prints at extreamly cool temps my first test it was running at 215 with very very little stringing or any issue but ive also seen it have the same conditions at 230 which is the base low temp suggested by overture which makes me wonder if the hotend temps we see are truly at the temp stated on our printers
yay more ad4 content! I am keen to try PETG as I make gaming mice but not 100% sure if its safe since I have a budgie in the house even tho I print rooms away. Also for filament "brands" as long as it isn't a no name it should be good, I had no idea overture gave sheets with their filaments?? I got a box of their PLA in matte white & no sheet :( maybe cause im from Australia?
There has not need any smell from printing PETG. I stick my face inside the door of the printer while it’s going haha!. Hmmm perhaps their PLA doesn’t come with a buildtak sheet but both my tpu and petg did
Nice video and great timing! Literally just started printing PETG a few hours ago haha. Printed a 9 point bedlevel test without good results, but that's due to the bedleveling issue that I'm still struggling with.
I assume you are printing the squares at the 9 points. If so, do you have some squares that look good while others are terrible? I would suggest shimming the bed with some heat resistant tape (aluminium tape used for duct work might work) or use actual shims which are better because they won't leave residue. If you decide to shim with tape, put the tape on the removeable bed, not the hot plate
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Yes, I am and indeed. Some look good, the others bad. I'll see where the fault is at and try the tape! As I'm test printing with PETG I can already tell that I have no blops. Using the 0.4mm 265 degrees nozzle on 250 degrees celsius. (Standard PETG profile from FlashForge). I can't imagine that your way of tinkering is THE way of a ''plug&play'' printer. But fine if it works for you of course.
@@joeyvanrenesse884 Are you printing a Benchy? I'm getting a fair amount of stringing and some blobs where I do retraction. Also the random blobs I'm getting on these benchy's are because I had the print optimized for speed rather than the same start location Haha the adventurer pro hasn't been so plug&play for me but perhaps I'm trying to achieve the perfect benchy
Nice video! Hard to come up with a good comparison just by visual inspection…. If you follow folks like CNCKitchen, he has a variety of layer adhesion tests as well. One question for you, did any of these filaments recommend different temp profiles?
Yeh CNCKitchen does a good job with strength comparison. For me, I was aiming more for aesthetics in this comparison since the benchy its testing for these rather than part strength. These filaments did have different temperature ranges that they recommended but the temperature (245C) I printed with fell between all the filament's ranges
Awesome presentation. You're convincing me to start using Simplify 3D... I can't achieve results as good as you're showning w Hatchbox PETG with FlashPrint. I'm curious was print speed and layer height you're using. Thank you.
I'm using 40mm/s print speed with travel speed at 150mm/s. Layer height is 0.2mm. Simplify3D has a lot of great features but I do find there are so many options that sometimes its hard to figure out which one works. By now, I've probably printed 30 benchy's and still haven't gotten a perfect PETG Benchy. I will be trying tonight what I think could give the perfect Benchy so fingers crossed! I'll share those settings once I actually achieve it
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I thought I had a really decent PETG FP profile, then tried it on a different part. Hmm. Starting to believe there may be no such thing as a profile that fits every project. Little things need tweaking... for example: lots of infill in a rectangular print, seems I can increase the infill speed, but do a bowl-like part with hardly any infill in the bowl walls, I have to reduce the infill speed or suffer lots of artifacts. 150mm/s is wow hard to believe, in FP I'm seeing issues with high speed transitions "jerking" the filament up or over during air travel to other locations, leaving artifacts of one form or another, not to mention the case shake it creates (which at 100mm/s knocked over a piano light I had sitting on top, lol). Just recently I discovered 1st layer at 230C and no fan worked very well, no stringing, flat as paint, then I use the fan list to go 10, 10, 20, for temps 238, 238 and 255 for all the rest. I use "slow 1st layers" =4 in FP (layers 2-5). As soon as it goes full speed (70mm/s base speed) an artifact is created due to the Jerked acceleration. So I've reduced print and travel speed to 50mm/s. Reducing Travel speed only increased print time by a minute over 3 hr print time, so willing to live with that to eliminate case shake. One last thing: I used to print PETG starting at 245C and work down to 235C. Now My approach is almost the reverse, 230C (no fan) to start and work up to 255C. This has left my parts looking more like cast metal (full melt between layers) as opposed to "layers of strings". I like it, I think I'm headed in the right direction. Can't wait to see your final PETG setup. Good luck with your tests.
No matter which brand you chose, I seen PETG as easier to print ABS alternative for simple form objects. Tool handles, cold water pipe adapters, cable holders, furniture parts, etc. For anything with a lot of small details PETG is not so good choice because of tendency of stringing. And one more interesting fact about this material. PETG is pretty elastic if you apply force slowly, but if this force come as short impulse they "became" brittle almost like PLA
Did you forget to dry these? The prints actually look pretty bad across the board. PETG picks up enough moisture to be unusable in under a day and I've never gotten a roll "ready to use" out of the vacuum bag. All have needed drying before first use.
I didn’t have a dryer and they came straight out of packaging. I have dryer now and have gotten slightly better results. My current humidity is 45% though which is not too high
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Mine is around 50%, it really doesn't take much lol The "problem" is that petg doesn't sizzle and pop when it's moist, it just oozes all over. Your petg profile could probably use some tuning once you get the moisture under control.
This is the first time I've ever heard someone call hatchbox a high quality brand. I consider them to be mid tier. And why the hell is it so expensive. I bought petg from them for like 30
I’ve only heard of prusament but that’s probably because I live in Canada and the other two aren’t widely available here. Also, note that prices are in Canadian dollars so it would be significantly less if converted to USD
I just hate petg. I get a roll, it prints good, then it starts clogging every time. Brand doesn't seem to matter. Yes, I have a dryer, and have kept rolls in for a week before with no change. Tried retraction settings, extruder tension, temperature, cooling on and off and from 30% to 100%. PETG is the Devil's filament.
How do you know it is clogging? Are you getting under-extrusion? I like to print Petg at the max temp, coupled with the minimum fan that works well for the part. Too much fan will cause the filament to harden before it completely leaves the nozzle. Be sure your fan duct doesn't direct too much air to the nozzle tip. A dual fan setup such as Hero Me does a better cooling job, allowing a reduced fan speed and less air blowing on the nozzle.
What settings are you using? Temperature, on the lower or higher side of reecommended temps, what speeds, retraction, z hop, there is misssing so much info here for it to be usable.. for instance. Im mostly printing polymaker petg. And i have zero blobs, stringing or angelhair. But that dont tell you much without knowing the rest.. So imo, this was an usless video. Sorry. You got greate content, but this does not tell me anything.
I don't know if you can get this filament where you are (I believe the company has worldwide affiliates). 3dfilaprint here in the UK sell an own-brand filaprint PET-G. This one is unique because it has a print temperature range of 195C to 220C and it prints very cleanly. I print it at 210C (40mm/s) or 215C (60mm/s) with 5 to 6mm of retraction at 60mm/s retract speed. This gives me prints without blobs or stringing using Cura or PrusaSlicer. I believe it's the modification which allows printing at lower temperatures than other PET-G which gives the clean results.
Looks like I will need to ship internationally but I'll see if I can find a way to get my hands on this. I might actually be heading to the UK for a week or two this summer
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 No sir, not on an Adventurer. I think you can, and certainly will, do better with some careful adjustments on the Adventurer. That is a high quality printer and you should expect much better results in my opinion. I'm not trying to be derogatory, rather to encourage you. I've struggled mightily with PETG and just this month I've finally found the settings that work. In fact, they worked so well that I printed a virtually perfect benchy on my $200 FLSUN Q5 with only an upgraded extruder. I'm making a video, reviewing the benchy and settings, in an effort to encourage other Q5 owners to persevere with PETG because the material is, as you rightly pointed out, a great alternative to ABS. Video will be up in a day or so.
Overture makes good stuff. I have never had a problem with it as long as it is dry. And I’ve never had a problem with a roll of material that wasn’t wound neatly. Not once. I suppose it happens but knock on wood…
![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vqwWs6xCnvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
To compare filament quality across brands you need to tune for each filament. We don't really gain anything from this comparison other than which ones work best with your current settings.
Thanks for your comment. Saved me some time.
True. The experiment is useless
Agree! He didn't even tune the print temperature, which is essential for every filament. And I think comparing should be done with the same color as well. I've seen major differences between two colors of the same brand
yep
I am not seeing much difference between PETG brands, but I absolutely see big differences from one color to another. This seems to be most pronounced when I switch from a translucent color to a solid one, with solid colors requiring that I print about 20% slower or I get horrible glops and horrible bridges and overhangs. Honestly, my PETG prints look a lot better than yours, and I have found that the most critical thing I must do when printing PETG is SLOW DOWN by reducing the volumetric flow to no more than 12, preferably 10. As I understand it, PETG is a plastic that holds its heat and cools slowly, so if you go fast you will be crossing wet filament and creating strings and gloops everywhere, and bridges will droop. I have also noticed that the part cooling fans are turned up higher when I print PETG.
Do yourself a favor and get an Eiboss filament dryer. They are expensive, but are worth it and they will help you determine how well these filaments print when they are absolutely bone dry. I use one myself and it has been the single best improvement in my printing since I started this hobby.
I am enjoying the AD4 content having just picked one up myself. Keep up the great, well made content my man!
Thanks! Let me know if there is anything in particular you want more content on!
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I'd love to see some large scale prints maxing out the build plate/dimensions of the AD4.
@@mattmace10 I just did a larger scale print, not fully maxing out but large enough. I can film something quick on that
The overture black PETG likes to print at 255c; higher than stated on the packaging, and higher than other colors of Overture PETG. Bringing the temp up took it from my least favorite to most favorite PETG filament.
Bed temp 80c
I struggled with the Space Grey until I took it to 250 deg.
100% polymaker user here for PETG. Its the best for my setup.
What temps are you using (at what speed?) I just received my first roll but I have some problems tuning it
Been printing with PETG almost exclusively for a year, don't have much experience with the "good stuff", i used eSun in a custom colour a lot because that was what my company ordered and on my own printers i use the absolute cheapest stuff i could find on taobao which was around 70-90 RMB per spool (i don't remember the exact price but thats what i had saved in my cura filament profile). For the longest time i didnt even have a filament dryer and i would just print with wet filament. All i can say is if your your profile (retraction, temp, combing, wiping, coasting) is done well, stringing can be reduced a lot. Even with my whack ass cheap and wet filament i didnt have much stringing. i could even push it to 25.2mm³/s on my klipper printer for infills and inner walls, no problem and even less stringing. With dried filament the results are of course better.
I've had PHENOMINAL results with some random/cheaper filament suppliers that outperformed name brand ones. At this point- I know a couple makers to avoid. And aside from specialty filaments I have great luck with any number of "cheap" filaments under 30 bucks. Heck several under 20😂 I'll drop coin on engineering filaments but petg is my go to cheap do it all filament. I don't use pla EVER.
seems like all of these are pretty useable, maybe the more premium brands needs less tweaking but with enough experience all of them could work i think.
huh. I pay 12,50 per roll of creality pet. Not so much variety of colors but an amazing base finament. Been through my first 4 test spools and ordered 10 more right out of the bat
winding is perfect. Love the transparent blue
Could you please share your retraction settings? Those towers looked flawless.
I know it wasn't in your comparison and this is an older vid, but I just started printing PETG a couple weeks ago. I had really awesome prints using Voxelab's PETG Pro (PETG+) in white. I followed that with SUNLU PETG in Clear and I found it to be a bit more finicky requiring another +5°-10°C on the hotend @240°C. I think you make a good point that transcends FDM 3D printing in general, and that was just pick one and "tune the crap out of it."
ive been seeing people saying overture PETG black likes to be printed hot close to the 250+ range but i have a roll that ive been running tests on and it prints at extreamly cool temps my first test it was running at 215 with very very little stringing or any issue but ive also seen it have the same conditions at 230 which is the base low temp suggested by overture which makes me wonder if the hotend temps we see are truly at the temp stated on our printers
Surprising results. Thanks!
Keep up the great work young man your presentation and information is tops I don't subscribe to many channels but I will yours
Thanks :) appreciate you putting in the time to write a comment
yay more ad4 content! I am keen to try PETG as I make gaming mice but not 100% sure if its safe since I have a budgie in the house even tho I print rooms away.
Also for filament "brands" as long as it isn't a no name it should be good, I had no idea overture gave sheets with their filaments?? I got a box of their PLA in matte white & no sheet :( maybe cause im from Australia?
There has not need any smell from printing PETG. I stick my face inside the door of the printer while it’s going haha!.
Hmmm perhaps their PLA doesn’t come with a buildtak sheet but both my tpu and petg did
Nice video and great timing!
Literally just started printing PETG a few hours ago haha.
Printed a 9 point bedlevel test without good results, but that's due to the bedleveling issue that I'm still struggling with.
Is your bed low on one side and high on the other?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 It was! It got repaired by my reseller but now im struggling to get smooth prints on each of all 9 points.
I assume you are printing the squares at the 9 points. If so, do you have some squares that look good while others are terrible? I would suggest shimming the bed with some heat resistant tape (aluminium tape used for duct work might work) or use actual shims which are better because they won't leave residue. If you decide to shim with tape, put the tape on the removeable bed, not the hot plate
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Yes, I am and indeed. Some look good, the others bad. I'll see where the fault is at and try the tape!
As I'm test printing with PETG I can already tell that I have no blops. Using the 0.4mm 265 degrees nozzle on 250 degrees celsius. (Standard PETG profile from FlashForge).
I can't imagine that your way of tinkering is THE way of a ''plug&play'' printer. But fine if it works for you of course.
@@joeyvanrenesse884 Are you printing a Benchy? I'm getting a fair amount of stringing and some blobs where I do retraction. Also the random blobs I'm getting on these benchy's are because I had the print optimized for speed rather than the same start location
Haha the adventurer pro hasn't been so plug&play for me but perhaps I'm trying to achieve the perfect benchy
did u dry the filaments before use?
Nice video! Hard to come up with a good comparison just by visual inspection…. If you follow folks like CNCKitchen, he has a variety of layer adhesion tests as well. One question for you, did any of these filaments recommend different temp profiles?
Yeh CNCKitchen does a good job with strength comparison. For me, I was aiming more for aesthetics in this comparison since the benchy its testing for these rather than part strength.
These filaments did have different temperature ranges that they recommended but the temperature (245C) I printed with fell between all the filament's ranges
The first layer of the Benchy is the fault of your printer - not the filament. Keep that in mind next time, but your video is nice overall.
Which one produce the least fumes?
Awesome presentation. You're convincing me to start using Simplify 3D... I can't achieve results as good as you're showning w Hatchbox PETG with FlashPrint. I'm curious was print speed and layer height you're using. Thank you.
I'm using 40mm/s print speed with travel speed at 150mm/s. Layer height is 0.2mm. Simplify3D has a lot of great features but I do find there are so many options that sometimes its hard to figure out which one works. By now, I've probably printed 30 benchy's and still haven't gotten a perfect PETG Benchy. I will be trying tonight what I think could give the perfect Benchy so fingers crossed! I'll share those settings once I actually achieve it
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I thought I had a really decent PETG FP profile, then tried it on a different part. Hmm. Starting to believe there may be no such thing as a profile that fits every project. Little things need tweaking... for example: lots of infill in a rectangular print, seems I can increase the infill speed, but do a bowl-like part with hardly any infill in the bowl walls, I have to reduce the infill speed or suffer lots of artifacts.
150mm/s is wow hard to believe, in FP I'm seeing issues with high speed transitions "jerking" the filament up or over during air travel to other locations, leaving artifacts of one form or another, not to mention the case shake it creates (which at 100mm/s knocked over a piano light I had sitting on top, lol).
Just recently I discovered 1st layer at 230C and no fan worked very well, no stringing, flat as paint, then I use the fan list to go 10, 10, 20, for temps 238, 238 and 255 for all the rest. I use "slow 1st layers" =4 in FP (layers 2-5). As soon as it goes full speed (70mm/s base speed) an artifact is created due to the Jerked acceleration. So I've reduced print and travel speed to 50mm/s. Reducing Travel speed only increased print time by a minute over 3 hr print time, so willing to live with that to eliminate case shake.
One last thing: I used to print PETG starting at 245C and work down to 235C. Now My approach is almost the reverse, 230C (no fan) to start and work up to 255C. This has left my parts looking more like cast metal (full melt between layers) as opposed to "layers of strings". I like it, I think I'm headed in the right direction.
Can't wait to see your final PETG setup. Good luck with your tests.
No matter which brand you chose, I seen PETG as easier to print ABS alternative for simple form objects. Tool handles, cold water pipe adapters, cable holders, furniture parts, etc. For anything with a lot of small details PETG is not so good choice because of tendency of stringing. And one more interesting fact about this material. PETG is pretty elastic if you apply force slowly, but if this force come as short impulse they "became" brittle almost like PLA
Did you forget to dry these? The prints actually look pretty bad across the board.
PETG picks up enough moisture to be unusable in under a day and I've never gotten a roll "ready to use" out of the vacuum bag. All have needed drying before first use.
I didn’t have a dryer and they came straight out of packaging. I have dryer now and have gotten slightly better results. My current humidity is 45% though which is not too high
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Mine is around 50%, it really doesn't take much lol
The "problem" is that petg doesn't sizzle and pop when it's moist, it just oozes all over.
Your petg profile could probably use some tuning once you get the moisture under control.
Thank you❤
Did you tune the temperature for each of the filaments? Not doing that could explain some of the problems.
I didn’t fine tune each one but the problem largely is more because of my printer limitations on print speed which caused a fair number of artifacts
You need to tune first each filament
Well, I got the cheapest petg off Ebay and got a better benchy than all of those so what does that mean? I used some fan, maybe 30%
Great video.
What about Esun solid petg i got good result.
I don’t have any esun petg but I may try ordering some now. I’ve heard from others it’s pretty good as well
This is the first time I've ever heard someone call hatchbox a high quality brand. I consider them to be mid tier. And why the hell is it so expensive. I bought petg from them for like 30
High quality consumer brand in my limited time researching petg. I have not ventured into the $60 rolls yet and only find out about them recently
What do you think is the highest quality petg with the strongest impact resistance?
Why would anyone pay that high for PETG and not go for Atomic, Printed Solid, Prusament etc?
I’ve only heard of prusament but that’s probably because I live in Canada and the other two aren’t widely available here. Also, note that prices are in Canadian dollars so it would be significantly less if converted to USD
pla is not brittle, its stronger than petg. petg only beats it for outside use
pla is brittle, what are you on. you can snap pla easily over petg which bends
@@alex59292 Hoffman tactical proves it
I guess PETG prices have come down a bit
I just hate petg. I get a roll, it prints good, then it starts clogging every time. Brand doesn't seem to matter.
Yes, I have a dryer, and have kept rolls in for a week before with no change.
Tried retraction settings, extruder tension, temperature, cooling on and off and from 30% to 100%.
PETG is the Devil's filament.
How do you know it is clogging? Are you getting under-extrusion? I like to print Petg at the max temp, coupled with the minimum fan that works well for the part. Too much fan will cause the filament to harden before it completely leaves the nozzle. Be sure your fan duct doesn't direct too much air to the nozzle tip. A dual fan setup such as Hero Me does a better cooling job, allowing a reduced fan speed and less air blowing on the nozzle.
What settings are you using? Temperature, on the lower or higher side of reecommended temps, what speeds, retraction, z hop, there is misssing so much info here for it to be usable.. for instance. Im mostly printing polymaker petg. And i have zero blobs, stringing or angelhair. But that dont tell you much without knowing the rest..
So imo, this was an usless video.
Sorry. You got greate content, but this does not tell me anything.
I don't know if you can get this filament where you are (I believe the company has worldwide affiliates).
3dfilaprint here in the UK sell an own-brand filaprint PET-G. This one is unique because it has a print temperature range of 195C to 220C and it prints very cleanly.
I print it at 210C (40mm/s) or 215C (60mm/s) with 5 to 6mm of retraction at 60mm/s retract speed. This gives me prints without blobs or stringing using Cura or PrusaSlicer.
I believe it's the modification which allows printing at lower temperatures than other PET-G which gives the clean results.
Looks like I will need to ship internationally but I'll see if I can find a way to get my hands on this. I might actually be heading to the UK for a week or two this summer
+1 to this, they also do samples of 10m too so much cheaper.
Of course they are a great bunch of guys/girls too if you go in person 👍😁
Yeah, I'd say that you've got problems with your printer or settings if you're getting benchies with such poor print quality.
Have you found out any better on a benchy with an adventurer 4 and petg?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 No sir, not on an Adventurer. I think you can, and certainly will, do better with some careful adjustments on the Adventurer. That is a high quality printer and you should expect much better results in my opinion. I'm not trying to be derogatory, rather to encourage you. I've struggled mightily with PETG and just this month I've finally found the settings that work. In fact, they worked so well that I printed a virtually perfect benchy on my $200 FLSUN Q5 with only an upgraded extruder. I'm making a video, reviewing the benchy and settings, in an effort to encourage other Q5 owners to persevere with PETG because the material is, as you rightly pointed out, a great alternative to ABS. Video will be up in a day or so.
I’ll have to check it out!
Overture makes good stuff. I have never had a problem with it as long as it is dry. And I’ve never had a problem with a roll of material that wasn’t wound neatly. Not once. I suppose it happens but knock on wood…