Which BambuLab PETG filament is the best? PETG Basic, Translucent PETG or PETG-CF?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- BambuLab three PETG types are tested: Basic, Translucent and Carbon Fiber version. The results are comparable with older videos, for example with BambuLab PLA filaments.
Tested PETG filaments: shrsl.com/4h435
All test objects were printed on X1C 3D printer.
shrsl.com/4h437
Results you can download from: www.mytechfun.com/video/353
Patreon supporters have access to summary results table from older videos. Become a Patreon:
/ mytechfun
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
0:48 Why PETG instead of PLA?
1:54 Unboxing
2:29 PETG Basic, 3D printing
3:25 Translucent, 3D printing
3:53 Transparency test
5:00 PETG-CF, 3D printing
6:11 Tensile test
6:38 Layer adhesion test
7:14 Shear test
7:30 Twist test
7:55 Bending test
8:27 Impact test
9:09 Temperature test
10:04 Creep test
10:53 Results
13:43 Conclusions
#3dprinting #bambulab #petg - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Your videos have helped me countless times to decide which filament type to choose for specific prints that require some kind of strength or temperature resistance. Keep up the good work!
Glad you emphasised the resealable bag! I didn't know that I've thrown mine away :*
I love the deformation test method, so ingenious and simple to replicate.
The bending deformation test? Yes, I like it too, it give us so much informations about the material, including the creeping and behavior on higher loads.
Thank you for this comparison ❤
I keep a cheap food dehydrator I picked up from Amazon to dry filaments. It doesn't get quite hot enough for drying nylons well, but it's plenty good for most of them.
CF filled materials are a lot more vulnerable to moisture uptake. The fibers provide an ingress point.
Thanks for doing what you do! these tests are very useful.
Hello, I appreciate your experiments and data collection to compare these filaments, however I'm worried that the difference between basic and translucent is not due to the plastic itself but due to the different printing conditions (slower, warmer etc.) You should also try the transparent PETG from bambu lab, which can be found as a color from basic PETG. Logically, it should be even stronger than translucent right? (With the same printing settings and conditions).
I'm also looking forward to your impact resistance test, I make technical products with PETG that need to not break when they fall for example.
Great video and have a good day! I'll sure be watching your next one.
Really good video thus far! As mentioned in a previous comment, printing PETG in a heated chamber can help in layer adhesion strength, but I would also try to print them with 0% - 20% cooling fan as well as increasing the layer time to be around 20sec or so. This will reduce the speed of the print of each layer if you're print one or two of the vertical dog bones. CNC Kitchen did a very nice video on adhesion strength when printing PETG with little to no cooling a few years ago. Its up to you if you wanna give it a go! :)
Also, I noticed at 7:04 that the CF-PETG layer lines don't seem to fill the gaps that well compared to the other prints. I assume that increasing the flow a little bit should help along with reducing or turning off the cooling fan to help the plastic flow into the small gaps. I've played around with CF-PETG before and it shouldn't be that weak in layer adhesion. Then again it depends on the brand you buy and if they used chopped or milled fibers.
Either way, that's my two cents and I enjoy seeing your videos! :D
I see near the end that you did print CF-PETG again... Should have watched all the way through. :<
But still, kinda shocked that it would be weaker. Though, with the small fibers added in does interfere with the PETG merging to itself. ;n;
Yes, I don't know why he doesn't turn the fans off. Basics
Thank you ❤
I think there is value in using the manufacturer recommended settings for these tests. All filaments can be tuned better, but the work required to do so can add a significant amount of extra work. At this point, 7+ years in on printing, I usually just pick something in the recommended range as a starting point, knowing a general capability of my printer. I only tune when there is an issue or for a specific application.
do you only need two hours of drying because of that particular dryer ? or that's all you need in general. i was under the impression that you needed to dry for 8 hours
also can you send me a link to the dryer?, and to a dryer review?
I wonder how the transparent color (30103) BL PETG Basic compares to the Translucent filament.
Would a slower print speed make a difference?
A slower volum. speed for all the filaments?
Great video as always, well done :-)
Probably yes, until some point, but that's why I am testing printing on default settings. That's what most of the users would do. And I believe that BL used these settings with a reason.
Why not turn off the fans for the best layer adhesion?
I know this is a difficult question to answer, but which Bambu filament would you recommend for machine parts in which impact strength and not bending/deforming are most important?
I will test all Bambulab filaments soon. But probably ABS. Nylon sometime creeps if under constant load.
@@MyTechFun Thanks for the reply! I should have qualified my question that I'm not a fan of ABS (too much trouble to print). What would your second choice be? Keep up the good work!
Which dryer are you using and are you happy with it?
Eibos polyphemus, but I have 4 more on the testing (still in the box)
@@MyTechFunThat is a test I am interested in!
You should try printing PETG in a 60-65 degree chamber with alot of cooling. Then layer adhesion should be close to 100%. Now it seems it's only 50%. Always check the glass transition temp of the filament and try to keep the chamber temp as close as you can to that while still being able to cool it. For ABS the sweet spot is 80C but then strength will be almost the same in all directions because layer adhesion will be fused almost like it was injection molded. Our home printers can't really print ABS properly because of low chamber temps but PETG should be fully possible.
Oh and love your videos. Keep them coming.
Hm, this is very interesting, you alrady tried this? What printer do you have? With too big temperatures in chamber, there is always risk of heat creep, if the fan cannot cool down the cold zone and the filament melts there. Very risky with low melting temp filaments.
Also if you adjust start macros to not linger at temp without extruding you will minimise clogging. Printing faster is also good because the filament time in the cold end is limited.
@@MyTechFun Yeah you need a good hotend cooling. If you keep it 20C under glass transition temp of the filament and increase printing speed it should not clog. The bed temp should be at glass transition temperature. I have a voron that is modded for high temp enclosure temps. I usually print ABS at 70C but 80C is optimal but you need a water hotend.
When i print PETG on the Bambu pei textured plate, without glue, i have terrible time trying to remove the print from the bed, they stick too well. Even after full cool down. So now I use glue when printing petg so i can more easily remove it.
*I'm going to try a garalite g10 plate using petg without glue. G10 is supposedly a miracle best plate. We'll see
What's your bed temperature? I print Clear Overture PETG with the bed at 70⁰C, even though it suggests 80-90⁰C on the spool, because it will stick too well at higher temperatures. You can also decrease your nozzle temperature for the initial layer if needed, but I think the bed temperature is most important. Also be careful not to squish the first layer with PETG because it can form permanent bonds with some materials.
Why only 6 mm^3/s of flow in case of translucent one?
Won't it make a difference in printing speed, and therefore in layer adhesion ?
I couldn't figure out for 100%, that's why I didn't talk about it in video. BUT probably it needs to be melted very good to be transparent, so they slowed down the speed. But on the other side, not sure why its printing temperature is lowered too. So, not sure. Sorry.
@@MyTechFunIt would be great to test it - I mean correlation between temperature, flow rate and translucence
I use elegoo rapid petg on a p1p with 24 flow
Interesting how the translucent was stronger in most tests. Do the color additives make the basic version weaker?
Not sure, but one of the reasons may be that it is printed slower. Only not sure why are those default settings.
What I think is happening here (based on slicer settings) is the translucent profile is more limited in print speed than the basic, in order to get better layer adhesion. Basic is 13mm³/s, translucent is 6mm³/s.
At this point it's been established that to achieve more transparency with "clear" filaments we need layers that are as fused together as possible, higher temps, slower print speeds, close to no cooling, etc
Edit: would be interesting to see basic being printed with translucent settings and vice versa, but it's probably okay to assume they wouldn't be too different if printed with the same settings
Please check out bambus new PA-GF
Every Bambu Lab PETG I've used is dangerously brittle, but their PLA Basic is A-OK.
That's my experience too. And I want to check this with some deeper testing. Maybe PLA, PETG, ABS, several brands.
So the temperature resistance of this petg is pretty bad...63
On Bambu's own filament guide they state that PETG basic is the toughest of all with an impact strength in xy of 52.7kj/m2. Interesting.
I ordered a "pro" IZOD impact tester, it should arrive in 1-2 months. I want to do a deepar impact testings. But calculation is very simple with IZOD testing. Maybe they used Charpy impact testing method (not IZOD)
I hate their PETG. I cracked the seal on a roll, tossed it in the printer, ran it after calibration and printed a couple things. Blobbing, splurting, and just all around crappy prints. I switched back to PLA Tough and poof- my prints looked better.
That's wet filament. Dry it
@@JP-pp4od brand new out of the box? That’s ridiculous. I live in the desert, it’s 32% RH in a good day. I literally opened it, loaded it, ran a test, and hit print.
@@ThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlank Yes. Are you new to 3d printing?
@@JP-pp4od no, I’m not. I’ve just never had as many problems with PETG as I have with Bambu’s
@@ThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlank Sure. Anyway, you got wet filament from the factory, dry it if you want to use it.
The plastics industy really out did themselves this time. In a world that is constantly asking for an end to plastics... Plastic industry: 'Ok, fine, what if we let you make your own shit at home?' Everybody: 'Take My Money!!'
So true 😂
It is actually better for the environment to print on demand rather than injection moulding hundreds of thousands of products that eventually some of them end up in a landfill, I understand that printing produces some waste however it could be used to make other things for example when I have enough plastic in the box from support materials,brims and failed prints I just melt them in a wooden mould I made and make kitchens trays out of them