Had to subscribe haha .030 over at home nice! Don’t listen to the haters in the comments, saying oh just take it to the machine shop blah blah blah who cares. You’re out there in the garage learning and getting it done!
Applaud your efforts, one suggestion is to use diesel for cutting fluid, more lubrication and lower flash point, machine shop costs have risen and finding a shop that does it properly is getting harder to find
Use a Ziptie to check for the stroker rod clearance, if you can fit a ziptie between the rid and block or cam then your good for clearance in that spot
That's awesome. My son and I just did a Ford 302, no machine shop garage rebuild using a hone. I want to do a 347 next. I love to see this stuff. So many people now think that any and all engines have to go to a machine shop every time they come apart.
Sweet that’s cool, knowing you did it all yourself as a special feeling! Your right that’s one of the motivations for making these videos. People seem to forget this is what hotrodding was, it wasn’t always just a “take it to a machine shop thing”.
My local machine shop used to do this with a fixture to hold the block and the honing tool. They now have a Sunnen machine that does it automatically. The only time he uses the boring bar is on odd motors/blocks like a tractor.
GM's 383 kit uses a 3.8-inch stroke crank with standard 4-inch pistons to arrive at that displacement. Fortunately, GM also offers 0.030 pistons available with that kit to make a 388 (6.4). Not a huge increase, but it'd be unique having "a 388."
I just found your 383 build video. Very interesting and cool. You did a lot of honing to fit in the oversized pistons. I have an old deck surface mounted boring bar and it works great for stock rebuilds. The finish honing is done by hand like you did. Of course no were near as much 😂 what I do is set the block into my solvent tank and turn it on then you can have the solvent running continuously were you want it. I highly recommend you get yourself a nice solvent tank with a pump for honing. It's much cleaner and more reliable. Besides, while your honing away your wonderful wife can be cooking your dinner 😂😂 Cool video man I enjoyed it
Thats all i use theres not a machine shop within a hundred miles ,ive built many 383s in my shop ,i usually use a 30 over block and take it out 40 over use a die grinder to notch the cylider bottoms and aim for about .035 clearance anymore you risk hitting the water jackets and run them hard in my hot rods to over a 150 thousand miles. Just check and recheck and you'll be strokin in public,luck to you
I applaud your effort, but naturally i question the process. Every good engine builder needs a proper machinest, or their own machine shop. Not to be mean, but a dingleball hone is as far as I'd go. Beyond that i prefer a consistent bore job. Time is money, and the machine shop guy needs to eat too. Same with reconditioning the connecting rods and crank. Its a very worthwhile service to have a machine shop do that as well. Nowadays it likely is hard to find a reputable machine shop. I am thankful i still have one in my neighborhood.
Thanks. Don’t get me wrong if this was a top-tier racing motor I probably wouldn’t be experimenting with it. But this is just a street truck motor that was from the junkyard and I just want to see what I can do with it and share it with all of you guys.
So Ive not had a block bored in several years what would a good machine shop charge now? 200-250? Why all this trouble? Last I had done was 10-15.00 a hole and bored perfect round and square to the block. I have to give you a A+ For guts and determination.
I’m not sure what the prices would be depending how much work you have them due to the engine. I mainly just wanted to see what I could do myself. Some people don’t have a (good) machine shop near them. so many stories that I know of personally and have read online of machine shops screwing things up. Not trying to hate on shops. Sometimes they’re just backed up also. I just really wanted to do a DIY build on this. It’s not an F1 car so if I can get everything close enough and look back and say hey, I did all of that myself. I’ll be pretty ecstatic with that!
Last time I really needed a block bored it was in 2005. It was $250 at a shop in the Atlantic City area. I know alot of shops around me now are closing up, just not enough business.
Bro I’ve used wd-40, Gas is way better. It’s an amazing detergent. It’s a lubricant and it dries without any residue. The fumes kind of suck but just open the door it’s fine. Very little chance of that stuff somehow blowing up for no reason. I’m definitely not the first person using this.
Thanks! I got it on summit here's the part # ESP-B13005L03068 Eagle has tons of different combinations on their website. I honestly honestly should’ve got the 12cc piston combo my compression is a little high.
Doing a full 30 over definitely takes some time. I found out some techniques along the way that definitely helped. But there’s some things that add time in like you have to stop and let the cylinder cool down. Maybe somewhere around an hour and a half (especially if you add in all the measuring) to get a cylinder perfect start to finish.
You would be better to have the block on the floor, and the deck level so your going straight up and down... But still for .030" over it should be bored then torque plate honed. By a machine shop.. To get the correct Rk, Rpk, Rvk Finish For best results, ring seal.. IMO
That is awesome that you were able to do that! But why did you get .030" over pistons? You do know they make .010" and .020" oversized pistons for a sbc 350 block right? How long did it take you for the first .010" to come out? Subtract that from the amount of time it took to get to .030" and the time you had to wait for things to cool down.😯 On a good note you probably got jacked from doing that to 8 cylinders.💪 Ok, so I have been a Tool and Die machinist for almost 40 years and have played around with engine building even longer. The proper way to express machine shop math is; .100" is spoken as one hundred thousands. That means there is one hundred if these, .001" which are spoken as thousands. Then there is .010" is spoken as ten thousands because there are ten of these .001" thousands. If you put a 5 after the 1 on ten thousands you get .015" which is spoken as fifteen thousands. Now we get into 4 decimal places .0001" is spoken as one tenth because there is ten of those in one thousand. When spoken this number .0015" one would say one and a half thousands or one thousand and five tenths. Or if it were .0013" it would be spoken as one thousand and 3 tenths. Breaking it down further than tenths isn't necessary unless it is for aerospace. Machine shop measurements as you probably figured out by now are based on thousands. Some of the measurements you were speaking made my head hurt.😁 I hope this helps.😎👍
Here's a tip for measuring you actual deck height to the centerline of the mains; You install a main bearing so the tang part is hanging away from the block so you can insert it so half of the thickness is hanging off of the upper housing bore. This will allow you to depth mic or use calipers that can measure depth to measure from the deck through a cylinder to the backside of the main bearing that is installed weird. You should be able to find the housing bore diameter on line. Or if you use your bore gauge and mics you can measure it.(But it really doesn't need to be that close.) When you measure down to the backside of the main bearing you'll want to make sure that you hit the tangent point of the radius, which basically means to make sure to measure to the highest point because it's round. You should be able to measure front to rear to see how good the factory did on each bank. If I think of any other measuring tips I'll write them down for you.😎👍
Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that when you get your measurements you need to add half of the housing bore diameter and that will be your actual deck height.😎👍
Thanks for all the info bud, .030 pistons is just what came with the kit. Didn’t really have a say in it… if I was just doing an oversize job myself, I would definitely not skip that far unless there were some serious damage to clean up. And you’re right learning all of the thousands measuring and the lingo is definitely a lot to get straight lol.
@@nicholsperformance92 Well, maybe next time you can piece a kit together and have it balanced locally? Would save a ton of work and possibly dollars if you find a good deal on slightly used or new parts someone decided not to take that direction? Very cool video, can't wait to see you do another garage rebuild.😎👍
I appreciate the effort but I’m thinking the lack of a deck plate to load stress the block as if it had a head bolted on combined with no way to ensure your grinding square to the deck surface will lead to very inconsistent bores? I mean don’t get me wrong plenty have honed at home to refresh an engine that’s meant to just run for transportation but this practice has no place in a performance setting like a stroker. Just my .02 I know everyone is entitled to their own opinions.
No problem with polite criticism. So a major thing to keep in mind is that the factory didn’t use deck plates on these engines from the factories and we all know they ran forever. I’ve actually been waiting for this comment for a while…There’s one cylinder I kind of poached, but the other seven are actually really close to acceptable specs. Now that the engines running, compression seems to be pretty close as well. The only thing I can’t do here is “aline hone”.
Man...i am a DIYer, but thats just too much work. I put a price on my time too, so just dropping it off at the machine shop for that .030 is worth the cost to me.
I hear ya, but there’s no guarantee you have a “quality shop” that’s not going to mess it up either. There’s good ones out there for sure. If you only needed to go .010 over just for a rebuild or something it’s honestly not even that much work. Especially if you’re already doing other work to the engine yourself.
@@nicholsperformance92 I get it, there's crummy machine shops, but there's a place I trust that I use. I drop off a dirty block, and get back a clean/decked block machined to whatever I asked for. That just looks like a ton of time and work. I u/s that the idea of the channel is all DIY, but whew.... I'll strip the block, drop it off then go back home and do everything else. I mean... The only grinding I do myself is the valves & valve seats. Just looks like that took a lot of time.
You're not wrong! defiantly some work and time. if you have a good shop that charges a fair amount go for it. I mainly did this just as a proof of possibly. 99% of ppl seem to think u absolutely can't do this, it will never work. for some reason... Thanks for the view and input, bud.
@@nicholsperformance92 I think you proved it's possible and not entirely complicated, just time consuming and maybe a little tiring. Believe me I'm all for DIY as much as possible. When the A/C quit in my last house, I learned very quickly how to do HVAC. That's how I am with everything. There's just some things I would rather do the easy way. I would never pay someone to build an engine, there's way too much information available online for free (you being a good example), but this seems a step too far for me. I'm looking for a Bridgeport for other projects, but that wouldn't help much with an engine block. I could see maybe welding up a rack that would hold the drill in place maybe. Hey-there you go. Next time you do this make a rack to hold the drill. That would save your arms. And use an aquarium pump to feed lubricant in. I'm seeing it in my head now..... You could actually start with a drill press and make the top able to adjust the angle and have a table that you could raise and lower. That would be a time saver and a lot easier on your arms. I've actually made shit like that before. I used to have a fox body mustang and found the front springs to be a PITA to install so I made a contraption to install the springs. I included it when I sold the car tho.
That’s funny you mentioned the drill press.. I actually made an entire set up out a large drill press, I had a fluid recycling system and all the works. Actually spent a lot of time making a prototype honestly, in the end it was way too complicated and I was better off just using the dang drill 🤦🏻.
Always appreciate a good how to video but this one is waaay to long. Less of the guy overexplaining and more of the process would have netted a 10-12 minute video.
A machine shop is too expensive? I had a 5.0 with a bad cylinder, and decided just went to the junkyard and got another 'longblock' for $200 rather than fix mine.
@@nicholsperformance92 just need to make sure you get a good one. I did pay a guy $100 to pull it out as explorers with 5.0 are difficult. I did rebuild it with hone job and new rings and bearings and diy valve job and racing cam. For my volvo I pulled one and it was even worse than my old one, so I had to hone it out.
Spending the little that a machine shop would charge for doing this right... Out ways any gains you think you did by doing this yourself. Just knowing the machine shop will get the hone finish correct and the possible fire damger by using gasoline... LOL wow! I can guarantee you that hone finish is nowhere close to being correct! 🤣🤣🤣
You’re right machine shops definitely never make mistakes either.. could they possibly do a better job,, sure. fire damage comment is completely unfounded as well. Also, no one‘s ever rebuilt their engines themselves. Never try learning new skills. Just pay someone to do everything right?? I guess classic hot rodding is just a myth Also… You’re so right about everything! Have a nice day 😀.
If you happen to pay attention to the video that you’re criticizing you see that I clearly mentioned that the hone finish is definitely not finished yet. So yeah, I guess you’re right! Thanks for the views and comments!! Keep em coming no need to be so nasty tho.
Had to subscribe haha .030 over at home nice! Don’t listen to the haters in the comments, saying oh just take it to the machine shop blah blah blah who cares. You’re out there in the garage learning and getting it done!
Applaud your efforts, one suggestion is to use diesel for cutting fluid, more lubrication and lower flash point, machine shop costs have risen and finding a shop that does it properly is getting harder to find
NAH! Maintain the use of gasoline...especially around the drill with the brushes sparking....Saftey 3rd!
Yeah and light up a smoke too!
No big deal, my dad used to smoke while he was fueling up his modified with methanol!
Use a Ziptie to check for the stroker rod clearance, if you can fit a ziptie between the rid and block or cam then your good for clearance in that spot
I’ve heard of that! Nice easy trick.
@nicholsperformance92 great for hard to reach spots
Wow man I’m 17 with a toasted 350 with plans to rebuild it and in my not yet professional opinion you did a great job man. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks man!!
That's awesome. My son and I just did a Ford 302, no machine shop garage rebuild using a hone. I want to do a 347 next. I love to see this stuff. So many people now think that any and all engines have to go to a machine shop every time they come apart.
Sweet that’s cool, knowing you did it all yourself as a special feeling! Your right that’s one of the motivations for making these videos. People seem to forget this is what hotrodding was, it wasn’t always just a “take it to a machine shop thing”.
Right on! Recommend drilling the oil lines and fittings on the block, there are a bunch of videos on TH-cam that show how it’s done.
Well that's pretty neat. I never thought of doing that before.
My local machine shop used to do this with a fixture to hold the block and the honing tool. They now have a Sunnen machine that does it automatically. The only time he uses the boring bar is on odd motors/blocks like a tractor.
That’s a lot of material to hone out !!!
.030” x 8 = .240 !!!!
Nice to see you could do it though.
Haha yeah It was some work, it would be nice if there a lower grit than 80.
GM's 383 kit uses a 3.8-inch stroke crank with standard 4-inch pistons to arrive at that displacement. Fortunately, GM also offers 0.030 pistons available with that kit to make a 388 (6.4). Not a huge increase, but it'd be unique having "a 388."
I’ve got one out .060 over, it’s on it last over bore. Anything after this it’s scrap.
That’s interesting, I guess that makes it easier (cheaper) for them. And yeah, Nothing wrong with a little extra displacement!
This is interesting I’m just glad my father in law works at a machine shop and can do my machine work for me for free
That’s definitely a cool perk!
I actually would like to do this too. When my perk runs out I’ll probably try it.
Fun stuff! The lil S10 looks like she's gonna have a healthy heart soon(ish). Good job brother!
Thanks man!
Great job! Can't wait to see it come together.
I just found your 383 build video. Very interesting and cool. You did a lot of honing to fit in the oversized pistons. I have an old deck surface mounted boring bar and it works great for stock rebuilds. The finish honing is done by hand like you did. Of course no were near as much 😂 what I do is set the block into my solvent tank and turn it on then you can have the solvent running continuously were you want it. I highly recommend you get yourself a nice solvent tank with a pump for honing. It's much cleaner and more reliable. Besides, while your honing away your wonderful wife can be cooking your dinner 😂😂 Cool video man I enjoyed it
Hell yeah man! This is awesome
Good luck with the build dude!
Thanks!
Thats all i use theres not a machine shop within a hundred miles ,ive built many 383s in my shop ,i usually use a 30 over block and take it out 40 over use a die grinder to notch the cylider bottoms and aim for about .035 clearance anymore you risk hitting the water jackets and run them hard in my hot rods to over a 150 thousand miles. Just check and recheck and you'll be strokin in public,luck to you
I applaud your effort, but naturally i question the process. Every good engine builder needs a proper machinest, or their own machine shop. Not to be mean, but a dingleball hone is as far as I'd go. Beyond that i prefer a consistent bore job. Time is money, and the machine shop guy needs to eat too. Same with reconditioning the connecting rods and crank. Its a very worthwhile service to have a machine shop do that as well. Nowadays it likely is hard to find a reputable machine shop. I am thankful i still have one in my neighborhood.
Thanks. Don’t get me wrong if this was a top-tier racing motor I probably wouldn’t be experimenting with it. But this is just a street truck motor that was from the junkyard and I just want to see what I can do with it and share it with all of you guys.
@@nicholsperformance92 it was a cool video to watch, thanks for showing the process.
@@nicholsperformance92how’s it going so far?
So Ive not had a block bored in several years what would a good machine shop charge now? 200-250? Why all this trouble? Last I had done was 10-15.00 a hole and bored perfect round and square to the block. I have to give you a A+ For guts and determination.
I’m not sure what the prices would be depending how much work you have them due to the engine. I mainly just wanted to see what I could do myself. Some people don’t have a (good) machine shop near them. so many stories that I know of personally and have read online of machine shops screwing things up. Not trying to hate on shops. Sometimes they’re just backed up also. I just really wanted to do a DIY build on this. It’s not an F1 car so if I can get everything close enough and look back and say hey, I did all of that myself. I’ll be pretty ecstatic with that!
Last time I really needed a block bored it was in 2005. It was $250 at a shop in the Atlantic City area. I know alot of shops around me now are closing up, just not enough business.
I got a quote 1 month ago of $1,250 to hot tank and bore a sbc .030 over and polish a crank....
Dude, use WD-40 for cutting oil. You won't get blown up, and it works awesome
Bro I’ve used wd-40, Gas is way better. It’s an amazing detergent. It’s a lubricant and it dries without any residue. The fumes kind of suck but just open the door it’s fine. Very little chance of that stuff somehow blowing up for no reason. I’m definitely not the first person using this.
Hello great video🔥 mind if I ask for the kit you used to build the 383?
Thanks! I got it on summit here's the part # ESP-B13005L03068 Eagle has tons of different combinations on their website. I honestly honestly should’ve got the 12cc piston combo my compression is a little high.
if you said it in the video i missed it. Roughly how long does it take to cut .030 in one hole?
Doing a full 30 over definitely takes some time. I found out some techniques along the way that definitely helped. But there’s some things that add time in like you have to stop and let the cylinder cool down. Maybe somewhere around an hour and a half (especially if you add in all the measuring) to get a cylinder perfect start to finish.
You would be better to have the block on the floor, and the deck level so your going straight up and down... But still for .030" over it should be bored then torque plate honed. By a machine shop.. To get the correct Rk, Rpk, Rvk Finish For best results, ring seal.. IMO
Is this the known reliable way no but i get the i wonder if i can with what i have builds
That is awesome that you were able to do that! But why did you get .030" over pistons? You do know they make .010" and .020" oversized pistons for a sbc 350 block right? How long did it take you for the first .010" to come out? Subtract that from the amount of time it took to get to .030" and the time you had to wait for things to cool down.😯 On a good note you probably got jacked from doing that to 8 cylinders.💪
Ok, so I have been a Tool and Die machinist for almost 40 years and have played around with engine building even longer. The proper way to express machine shop math is;
.100" is spoken as one hundred thousands. That means there is one hundred if these, .001" which are spoken as thousands.
Then there is .010" is spoken as ten thousands because there are ten of these .001" thousands. If you put a 5 after the 1 on ten thousands you get .015" which is spoken as fifteen thousands.
Now we get into 4 decimal places .0001" is spoken as one tenth because there is ten of those in one thousand. When spoken this number .0015" one would say one and a half thousands or one thousand and five tenths. Or if it were .0013" it would be spoken as one thousand and 3 tenths. Breaking it down further than tenths isn't necessary unless it is for aerospace.
Machine shop measurements as you probably figured out by now are based on thousands. Some of the measurements you were speaking made my head hurt.😁 I hope this helps.😎👍
Here's a tip for measuring you actual deck height to the centerline of the mains;
You install a main bearing so the tang part is hanging away from the block so you can insert it so half of the thickness is hanging off of the upper housing bore. This will allow you to depth mic or use calipers that can measure depth to measure from the deck through a cylinder to the backside of the main bearing that is installed weird.
You should be able to find the housing bore diameter on line. Or if you use your bore gauge and mics you can measure it.(But it really doesn't need to be that close.)
When you measure down to the backside of the main bearing you'll want to make sure that you hit the tangent point of the radius, which basically means to make sure to measure to the highest point because it's round.
You should be able to measure front to rear to see how good the factory did on each bank. If I think of any other measuring tips I'll write them down for you.😎👍
Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you that when you get your measurements you need to add half of the housing bore diameter and that will be your actual deck height.😎👍
Thanks for all the info bud, .030 pistons is just what came with the kit. Didn’t really have a say in it… if I was just doing an oversize job myself, I would definitely not skip that far unless there were some serious damage to clean up. And you’re right learning all of the thousands measuring and the lingo is definitely a lot to get straight lol.
@@nicholsperformance92
Well, maybe next time you can piece a kit together and have it balanced locally? Would save a ton of work and possibly dollars if you find a good deal on slightly used or new parts someone decided not to take that direction? Very cool video, can't wait to see you do another garage rebuild.😎👍
I appreciate the effort but I’m thinking the lack of a deck plate to load stress the block as if it had a head bolted on combined with no way to ensure your grinding square to the deck surface will lead to very inconsistent bores? I mean don’t get me wrong plenty have honed at home to refresh an engine that’s meant to just run for transportation but this practice has no place in a performance setting like a stroker. Just my .02 I know everyone is entitled to their own opinions.
No problem with polite criticism. So a major thing to keep in mind is that the factory didn’t use deck plates on these engines from the factories and we all know they ran forever. I’ve actually been waiting for this comment for a while…There’s one cylinder I kind of poached, but the other seven are actually really close to acceptable specs. Now that the engines running, compression seems to be pretty close as well. The only thing I can’t do here is “aline hone”.
Powernation put a stroker crankshaft in a 305 and made 500hp
Did you order your rotating assembly balanced?
Sure did, came with fly wheel and dampener.
Where did you get that honing bar?
I got links in the description check it out. Its lisle brand and works pretty good.
did you say gasoline or kerosine
Gas.
Man...i am a DIYer, but thats just too much work. I put a price on my time too, so just dropping it off at the machine shop for that .030 is worth the cost to me.
I hear ya, but there’s no guarantee you have a “quality shop” that’s not going to mess it up either. There’s good ones out there for sure. If you only needed to go .010 over just for a rebuild or something it’s honestly not even that much work. Especially if you’re already doing other work to the engine yourself.
@@nicholsperformance92 I get it, there's crummy machine shops, but there's a place I trust that I use. I drop off a dirty block, and get back a clean/decked block machined to whatever I asked for. That just looks like a ton of time and work. I u/s that the idea of the channel is all DIY, but whew.... I'll strip the block, drop it off then go back home and do everything else. I mean... The only grinding I do myself is the valves & valve seats. Just looks like that took a lot of time.
You're not wrong! defiantly some work and time. if you have a good shop that charges a fair amount go for it. I mainly did this just as a proof of possibly. 99% of ppl seem to think u absolutely can't do this, it will never work. for some reason... Thanks for the view and input, bud.
@@nicholsperformance92 I think you proved it's possible and not entirely complicated, just time consuming and maybe a little tiring. Believe me I'm all for DIY as much as possible. When the A/C quit in my last house, I learned very quickly how to do HVAC. That's how I am with everything. There's just some things I would rather do the easy way. I would never pay someone to build an engine, there's way too much information available online for free (you being a good example), but this seems a step too far for me. I'm looking for a Bridgeport for other projects, but that wouldn't help much with an engine block. I could see maybe welding up a rack that would hold the drill in place maybe.
Hey-there you go. Next time you do this make a rack to hold the drill. That would save your arms. And use an aquarium pump to feed lubricant in. I'm seeing it in my head now..... You could actually start with a drill press and make the top able to adjust the angle and have a table that you could raise and lower. That would be a time saver and a lot easier on your arms.
I've actually made shit like that before. I used to have a fox body mustang and found the front springs to be a PITA to install so I made a contraption to install the springs. I included it when I sold the car tho.
That’s funny you mentioned the drill press.. I actually made an entire set up out a large drill press, I had a fluid recycling system and all the works. Actually spent a lot of time making a prototype honestly, in the end it was way too complicated and I was better off just using the dang drill 🤦🏻.
Always appreciate a good how to video but this one is waaay to long. Less of the guy overexplaining and more of the process would have netted a 10-12 minute video.
A machine shop is too expensive? I had a 5.0 with a bad cylinder, and decided just went to the junkyard and got another 'longblock' for $200 rather than fix mine.
Not a bad deal. Machine shop costs can rack up $. Plus time, and maby a drive depending were you are.
@@nicholsperformance92 just need to make sure you get a good one. I did pay a guy $100 to pull it out as explorers with 5.0 are difficult. I did rebuild it with hone job and new rings and bearings and diy valve job and racing cam. For my volvo I pulled one and it was even worse than my old one, so I had to hone it out.
Spending the little that a machine shop would charge for doing this right... Out ways any gains you think you did by doing this yourself.
Just knowing the machine shop will get the hone finish correct and the possible fire damger by using gasoline... LOL wow!
I can guarantee you that hone finish is nowhere close to being correct! 🤣🤣🤣
And seeing just now you already rebuilt this engine once before... Makes this video even more hilarious!
🤣🤣🤣
You’re right machine shops definitely never make mistakes either.. could they possibly do a better job,, sure. fire damage comment is completely unfounded as well. Also, no one‘s ever rebuilt their engines themselves. Never try learning new skills. Just pay someone to do everything right?? I guess classic hot rodding is just a myth Also… You’re so right about everything! Have a nice day 😀.
@@nicholsperformance92 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@nicholsperformance92 I guess the irony of you recently just rebuilding that engine went right over your head. 🤣🤣🤣
If you happen to pay attention to the video that you’re criticizing you see that I clearly mentioned that the hone finish is definitely not finished yet. So yeah, I guess you’re right! Thanks for the views and comments!! Keep em coming no need to be so nasty tho.