We Built A 383 Stroker TORQUE BEAST To Replace Our Customer’s JUNK 327!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2023
- There were definitely a few setbacks along the way... but this 383 stroker should smoke some tires!
Make sure you check out the entire playlist if you haven't!
• Building A 383 Stroker...
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#383stroker #automotivemachining #jimsautomotivemachineshop - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I'm a retired aircraft mechanic and we used the vacuum technique to seal leaks on wet wings all the time.
8802 fuel tank sealant is a whole different animal
Been there done that
Hate working on wet wings. Retired now
Did not mind too much working with 8802. Digging out the old sealer was the real problem. I was a A&P for 45 years.
😊Repaired a gas tank with jb weld once on a homebuilt. Stopped dripping on my knee for about a month. Then sent it to a shop to reweld.
My dad was a fantastic mechanic. Early on he taught me that, if you don't know what broke something, you haven't fixed it. Your oil leak chase reminded me of him. In the military, we used to find radar rotary joint problems the same way. Thanks for this fine, educational video.
I need to point out something for your viewers. Please notice the engine hits peak hp and then carries basically at peak for several hundred rpm. It doesn't fall off a cliff or appear as a big spike. That shows valvetrain and related parts doing the job properly. Many many dyno videos of other channels show a big climb then a big emmediate drop off. Guys you did great. A fantastic example for all to see. Sorry for my posting multiple times. This was a great build and video. I hope it gets proper recognition. Thank you both.
This can also be an indication of head flow being a limiting factor.
They called it a torque beast aiming for easy smoky burnouts. I think they nailed exactly what customer wanted and I bet more.
Well balanced, maintains its momentum. Immediate falloff = poorly balanced.
That's not how it works at all. Your generic drop off point does not reference specific rpm, or cylinder head flow characteristics. Most TH-cam Dyno videos are race engine oriented, where the cam is intended to make peak power just before the limitations in cylinder head flow and valve train stability. The majority of Chevy 383 Dyno pulls for this reason would end at 7,500 rpm+ 383's like to rev. And BOTH hp and tq would be up substantially throughout the curve and as long as there is a reasonable margin between max HP and valve float, then all is right with the world.
For a street engine this has a really nice fat curve right where it'll be useable. And it'll still do a reasonable job on track. Street and track are opposite sides of the coin.
Here's the first 383 dyno video TH-cam recommended after this video, th-cam.com/video/aTr50crxxdg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NCAnV66cB43G6svO comparing the two this has a peakier HP curve and more drop off but wider HP curve making over 522 hp from 5300 rpm to 6800 rpm with a max of 554 HP at 5900 rpm, and 500+ HP from 5000 rpm through 7300 rpm, and 500+ tq from 3500 rpm through 5900 rpm, this was dynoed with a 750 cfm VACUUM secondary carb. The head flow is 5cc more on this head. Probably the main difference is in cam choice. Area under the curve says this build would be faster on track everything else being equal. But again for some reason JAM didn't Dyno beyond 6000 rpm so who knows where the HP drops off.
I'd be happy with either in a street vehicle that sees a drag strip often.
@@truracer20 383's like to rev? The traditional 4" bore, 3.750 stroke??
Anyone who criticizes what this guy is doing has never been around a farm. 😂 Farmers are the best engineers. Good job fellas.
Who cares
No! They're just cheap!
@@frankc1430 you evidently have never been around very many farms , because i have yet to meet any sort of farmer who is cheap ,, i don't know any farmer who has a shop and mechanics on call to fix broken equipment ,, the mechanic IS the the farmer ,, and nearly every farm i have worked for has a shop of their own of some sort
@@wildcoyote34 I live in the middle of a farming community! I know a lot of farmers! Anything else you want to know?
@@frankc1430
Yes, we are cheap bastards
Jim is a legend. Full of tricks and knowledge accumulated from years of experience. I don't see how anyone could leave even the slightest negative thought or comment about you guys. I still wish he would start making farming videos. Awesome video.
The air and vacuum "trick" is brilliant. This is what 40 years of experience gets you.
One hell of a teaching moment. Great way to trouble shoot an oil leak!
I just find it amazing that you guys find the time to do this channel and still are able to be farmers. I don't think America appreciates their Farmers enough. I live in Michigan, and people get so angry about farmers slowing traffic.
They don't think about that slab of bacon they ate for breakfast in the morning or the eggs that they had for their omelette or the grains for the toast they ate.
To be fair, shutting down an entire highway with a 36 tired trailer behind a track job at 6.30am is really impolite.
That was Epic guys! The cleaning guy (aka dad) knows his onions and a few tricks lol. I really loved the oil leak fix trick. I'd never have thought of using a shop vac to suck silicone sealant into the gaps! That was really neat. The customer should really love this engine. Fit the engine and visit the tire shop immediately lol
Love videos like this where the old timers are sharing their tricks. Knowledge is priceless.
A word of advice specifically for all the retrofit TBI systems, (doesn't matter what brand) is that if you're running a dual plane manifold, the notch between the left and right banks has to be cut so that there's communication between the two planes. This is irrelevant for single plane intakes, but for dual planes and that type of throttle body injection you can't have the two planes sealed off and separate from each other. Most dual planes have that notch already cut in but a lot of them don't, and this type of injection just won't work without it.
agreed, a single plane intake works better, and for a chevy, finding a "street" intake manifold should be easier than other brands.
I remember this from engine masters a while ago. On the most recent sniper episode I'm surprised they didn't note that.
This manifold has the notch in the divider. The issues mentioned in this video with the EFI were strictly user error due to us not having proper O2 sensor placement. The similarities in the dyno results between the Fitech EFI and the Edelbrock 750 reassure me that the Fitech was working as intended on the second day, and with further time to allow the unit to self tune (and the ability to make parameter changes for further tuning) it will likely continue to outperform the carb. For those who feel we should have went with a single plane intake; this is a street engine, not a race engine. We're hopeful the customer will be conscious of the fact that the higher RPM this engine is run, the wear on components increases dramatically and as such, the life of the engine decreases dramatically. With that considered, we felt the dual plane manifold would put us exactly where we wanted our power range to be. In a perfect world with unlimited time and funds, it would be great to test multiple different manifold options and make an educated decision based on the goals of the engine from there.
@@JAMSIONLINE yeah I know, just wanted to put the manifold thing out there into the ether, the manifold thing can be a nightmare for the unsuspecting. Felt like a good place to put that out there. That's a fantastic build BTW! I should have said so!! Sorry!
@@MacPoop no, I absolutely appreciate the comment and the information for other viewers! :) Just offering some more clarification everyone lol
Customer is definitely going to enjoy that HP level! 530Ftlbs is a tire killer
I once had this problem with a smog small block where I decked the block and installed higher compression heads. Doing both of those changed the angle of intake manifold enough that if I put lots of silicone it wouldn't leak right away but eventually after a day or two it would start. My elderly neighbor suggested that I check that. Once the intake flanges were machined and I port matched the runners that little small block would wind up like a rubber band and it never leaked at the intake ends again.
Was it me, or could you see the angle difference of the intake and head?
I've seen that quite often, and I wonder if the different manufacturers have different ideas of 90° angle...
I was thinking along those lines myself but don’t have much personal experience to go on.
If you deck the block doesn’t that change the geometry of the intake angle ? That would explain why it leaks on just one side.
I always let the silicone firm up with the parts lightly assembled so that it compresses rather than pushes out when it’s torqued.
@@bluecollar58 Exactly. Depending on the amount of material removed from the deck and/or cylinder head surface, not to mention the aftermarket manifold, the fit needs to be checked of the intake manifold to the block and heads. Usually the bottom of the intake that meets the wall of China has to have some material shaved off. It can't be too tight against the block or the sealer will squish out and not seal.
Didn't expect that much power. Good work pays off. 👍🏻
The keys to this build are the good cylinder heads, correct compression and enough valve overlap. The supporting equipment also has to be up to the task. With a tighter lobe centerline angle (107° would be better) this combination would have made even more torque.
@@Joshie2256 They should have used a single plain intake on it
@OneIssueVoter No, he does have a 522HP engine. See the difference between engine horsepower & wheel horsepower.
@@Bill-xc8leno they shouldn't use a single plane. They are looking for low end torque.
@OneIssueVoteryou are wrong my friend.
man i just love those copper colored valve covers
I’ve gotten to the point that I don’t ask people what’s wrong, I ask the symptoms and the desired end result. Much easier than doing exactly what the customer wants but doesn’t fix the problem.
Finally, an engine that is hitting numbers that are at least acceptable for its displacement! Great build, lot's of attention to detail!
The 383 is my favorite configuration for the OG SBC. Massive power in a compact NA package.
I’m glad you were willing to talk about the problem and showed how you went about repairing the problem.
I had an oil leak on a fresh engine build at the front of an oil pan. It was already in the car. Leaking near the timing cover. We we’re at the track. We just squished some silicone in there and let it dry. Worked great, never leaked again. Ran that motor several seasons. Wasn’t pretty but it worked.
Dude! I've been reading and watching engine builds since the mid 80s. This is one of the best I've seen and I love this motor. Keep them coming.
This was a awesome build! I most say I didn’t think the syringe trick would work but nothing makes me more impressed than to be proven wrong! Good job guys! Would love to get a engine build by Jim’s Automotive
Surely don't call me Shirley LOL! 11:17 re: Airplane movie comedy
I remember years back. A SBC 383 was strong at 425/425 or 425/450. Nice build. I love the valve covers.
She's a runner! Going to be a tire flying machine. Really enjoy how you guys work together.
A real polluter. Atta boy.
@@lamarw7757go mow some grass with your electric lawn mower. You're on the wrong channel here.
I don't know what happened to scat but the last 2 350 cranks I got from them had rod journals with almost a half thousand taper on the same journal
That’s awesome! I’ve heard about doing the syringe method before, but I have never actually seen it done. Glad everything worked out for you guys!!!!!
We may need a tips and tricks episode. Pretty cool trick, i would have pulled the intake.
Heh, that video would last a lifetime
Those valve cover are beautiful, as are the numbers, solid build!
You guys are so fortunate that the "cleaning guy " is such a talented machinist. Such a fantastic build ! Job well done , I'm sure the customer is going to be so pleased.
Hats off to your honesty...!..easy fix...clever...!..it wasent like u were hide'n a bad part...always impresed with the level of pride & quality work...!..& its "always" cool to see a father & son work together & get along so well..!..nowadays...!...thanks 4 an enjoyable series on this 383 build...well done..!
The positive and negative pressure trick was brilliant. I’ve used the vacuum to keep oil from draining from the pan before, but I’d never have thought of this.
i use the negative pressure trick to keep from getting oil on me when changing oil
Nice work, gentlemen!
Just a word of caution on the “self-tuning” of those ECUs: as you saw with the O2 sensor placement, the engine lives and dies by that O2 sensor. It is important to limit the amount of trim adjustment the ECU can do once a decent fuel map has been “learned” to, for example, 10% or so. I don’t recall if the FiTech has the ability to limit the trim learning as it’s been a while since using one, but similar Holley systems have that capability. If those learn limits are left wide open, the engine is one failing O2 sensor and a good burnout away from coming back to the shop.
The system has limp mode safeguards just like a stock ECU.
Great work guys, thanks for the warts 'n all presentation. That real life experience of the difficulties is pure gold. Terrific result!
34 degree's at full advance is the number my late model SBC liked also. Nice HP and TQ numbers
This has been one of the coolest build series, I’ve ever seen!
To see real repair work rather than replace is something that is rare today. You track down the problem and experience won the day. CONGRATULATIONS
Don’t know if it’s still done but what I did way back in the 60s was to O-ring the block and use the factory head gasket
No trouble even with a 6-71 supercharger on a small block Chevy engine!
JIM ❤
Enjoyed the videos guys! Slick repair on the oil leak. 👍
O2 sensors will need to be at least 18 inches from air, Ie. End of pipe or exhaust leak. It will read way leaner than it is.
Thank you. Very enjoyable video. Love the old school tricks to stop a small oil leak..
If you installed the O2 sensor near the end of the collector without an extension pipe (at least 18 inches) it could cause the O2 sensor to be exposed to too much ambient air back flowing into the end of the header. This would cause the O2 sensor to read lean at the sensor sending a signal to the fitech computer to add fuel causing a rich condition. I have seen similar issues with holly sniper systems so it may be worth looking at. Good luck, love the channel.
That’s a bad dude. Nice job man. I like the high numbers all the way through the pull.
Your channel showed up on my TH-cam homepage as I'd watched a few engine rebuild videos from Pakistan/India. I really admire your attention to detail and work to ensure that the quality is second to none, The videos from that part world of engine rebuilds and brakes component manufacturing are scary. I love your knowledge and expertise.
Excellent! I wish more channels were like this
I like those valve covers, they're super unique. Love the old school approach of your channel gentlemen, thank you.
Anyone who has rebuilt a small block knows you always gotta put a nice amount of gasket sealant in the V where head and intake meet you always put a nice glob there or you get leaks as yall did but it’s understandable since yall don’t do many of these. Y’all did really nice work tho on the machine work I’d definitely use yall for the machine work and balancing 👍🏻👍🏻
I haven't even seen the whole thing and I loved it. These guys love what they do and it shows. Very informative videos and I enjoy watching all of them. Hats off to you gentlemen, job well done 👍🏼
Always so impressed by you guys, the calm approach you take with everything is spot on
That was a great idea to use a syringe with RTV there are so many great hacks that some of these old guys if they don't share them they're going to die off with them. Thank you for letting us know that this will work. I have chased this same issue and installed and pulled a intake to fix the issue to find it out why it was failing to seal this gentleman has a lot of knowledge and has seen great different things that will work. Great video that just got you a new subscriber. Thanks again.
These guys are experts in their craft, never have I viewed engine building like this !! So easy to listen to and follow. Well done guys.
Ok, that vacuum trick is awesome. I've been working on motors and machines since I was a kid and never would have thought of that but danged if it doesnt work beautifully. Thats a trick I will definitely keep in mind.
I like how you two analyze your problems.
Great job! I wouldn't have thought about using vacuum. I bet the owner will be tickled.
Or ticked. If it was my engine I'd paid a bunch of money for ..I'd want that pulled and resealed properly especially if it's in a performance application.
@@Boga217In what way was it not sealed? You'd be happy to pay for taking off the manifold, applying sealant and re-assembling to achieve the same result. If I was the customer I would applaud the intelligent solution that was employed.
@@johncrowley5612 it was sealed but not well. If you have to inject new sealant onto old new it is one more connection that can leak. So I never said it wasn't sealed..it just was not done properly the first time by his son who admittedly is not an expert by his own words. And as a customer I shouldn't have to pay you more to do your job properly second time.
As the customer I would download the video so when it leaks I can make him fix it right again. His dad's cheap and doesn't want to waste time/labor money to tear down again, clean it, apply proper amount of sealant and reassemble.
@@Boga217 If you'd watched the video it was clearly stated that in the event of it leaking in future they'd help the customer out.
Nice work. Great to see the two of you working together.
This was an awesome series to watch. I am amazed at the level of detail y'all go into and it is very much appreciated.
Thanks guys for showing the machine shop steps and explaining everything. my dad and i built many engines but never saw this part of the build. I just found you channel and am now hooked! Keep up the great work guys!
Yeah man that's gonna feel addictive . Great torque curve , Was this a fast road cam ?
The vacuum system works. Many old school ideas are from years of experience that are proven over time. And farmers are the best at this
That HP was made at 5000 ft elevation.. certainly does make a difference. Good job. As for the oil leakage.. did the angles of the manifold match the head surface angles? You know quite well how aftermarket parts can vary!
I thought the dyno was on pikes peak. 30% correction factor seems like an extreme amount unless it was like 130deg too. I would have figured 10% a more honest correction for 5000ft elevation.
Very knowledgeable man, lot of this knowledge is acquired over 40 years experience and lots of trial and error! Wish I knew half as much as Jim about building engines ! He reminds me of my uncle who was a motor machinist and was very particular with his work, he wanted everything to be perfect when it left th shop!!!
Wonderful work! So many bits from different manufacturers always takes a lot of time to get right. At least you did not have to take the manifold off and machine it to match the valley angles better (like I did last engine). That was a real pain! I am going to remember this silicone injection under vacuum trick, what a gem of an idea.
Great work lads. Yr ethos is the same as my mechanics here in Perth
They rebuilt a friends 454 big block. 570hp. 750 ft lbs torque
It will turn both rear tyres travelling at 150 kms/hr. 93 miles/ hr
From a standing start to 260kms/hr. 161 miles/hr. Straight line torque curve and only goes upwards.
This car pulls like a freight train with no flat spots. And they’ve hit just under 300kms / hr in it. 186 miles /hr
Cracked windscreens cause the chassis was twisting under load
Removed engine and seam welded entire engine bay and added additional strengthening underneath
Smashed gearboxes until some race team in the states built a box for the car which could take the torque. No one in Australia would guarantee a strong gearbox
Yet idles like a kitten and u can go grab milk safely on the primary jet. The car is a sleeper as we call them here. Understated from the outside
But load the car up. 2nd jet opens up and it turns into a torque monster. Quite scary actually at high speed
And because of great work like mechanics of yr calibre
I am amazed at using an old block and then the intensive work gone to make this a Class A++++ job. Phew. Now I have to see you guys build an engine that NEEDS a custom block! As always, a treat to see the process and detail that goes into good work.
Excellent job guys! Was a great watch 😊 thanks for uploading 👍
I'm impressed with the power output. Great numbers for a small block. Good job fellas. Look forward to seeing more of your videos. Keep up the excellent work.
Just watched this video. All I got to say is the things your dad did is absolutely brilliant. I learned some cool things. Thanks for sharing this
Great video, I had this exact same scenario on a SBC in my Nova. I had the same Idea of pushing a little silicon just like you did but I didn't think to use vacuum. Great tip, I appreciate your honesty.
i use ACDELCO UV oil dye. You need a little pocket uv flashlight. Poor the dye in the oil. let the engine idles or drive it and come back at night or in a dark room. Youll find the leak right away in a matter of minutes. It works everytime
Well done. Love these old "farmer" tricks. I backyard-wrenched for years in the late 80s and into the 90s (pre-internet), and if I heard tips like these from others I always felt like I'd struck paydirt. Many times, the best knowledge is the simple, slick tricks that can get you out of a bind while saving you time and money.
Love the content guys always enjoying watching
Excellent Episode! A lot was learned from this!!! Amazing power - and torque, that this engine puts out!
Sweet build! Great gathering of objective evidence with the failure mode analysis and an even cooler repair! These two are the real McCoys
Great idea would of never thought of it. Great idea.
I have also found countless oil pressure sending units causing a leak from the same area as where you find the rear main seal leak. When you repair a leak like that the customer is very happy.
383Ci thats almost 1.4ft/lb per cube;
David Vizard would be proud
I have used this same trick to pull wood glue into a crack to fix wooden things. Great trick!
The syringe is a good idea. Never thought of that. Might have to try that one. Most of the stuff I do is machined metal to metal, so it may be too tight to work. That a perfect scenario to use that.
Great video and awesome build guys, congratulations! Also a good example of no matter how professional and detailed you are, you can still encounter issues. Also giving viewers an appreciation of how much time it takes to build an engine like this properly. AG
@JAMSIONLINE hearing that beast on the dyno is beautiful music and when the secondaries kicked in and that beast came alive and put out over 500 horsepower and torque was absolutely beautiful
brought tears to my eyes watching it
keep up the outstanding work y’all are doing
At 7:52 right be hind your dad's lift arm the flat bed truck ...y'all see it it's right there on the bed of that truck ...... the fly is laughing at you .....👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 great video 👍👍👍👍
Great job guys. It's been a long time getting here. The owner is going to be able to enjoy this engine for a long time. Cheers 🍻
Grinding the crankshaft yourself was a good idea because you will always get it where it needs to be. The big companies no matter their name don’t have perfect quality control.
Great documentary video! 💯 Y’all be proud of yourselves ✊🏻🤙🏻👏🏻👌🏻
Awesome work guys, thanks for the videos along the way
Well done! Ive learned again!
When you deck a block or machine heads you need to lower the china wall, been too long, cant remember.
BUT!
Dry fitting the inlet with strips of credit card, uou can see ( feeler guage) the gap on the china wall. (the 'flat' on the "v" of the underside of the inlet manifold.
Thanks guys, this series was a lot of fun and brought back fond memories of building small blocks with my buddy Fred in the seventies.
You guys are great thanks for your knowledge and honesty.
Good job Fellers I love it when I watch a video and I learn a new trick thank you
Jim great job on the engine ,power looks great. My shop builds around 3 to 6 383 combos a year real similar combo as your ...you and your father hit the mark. Ken
Ive used an actual vacuum pump for this type of fix before but I gotta say, the shop-vac is the most farmer thing Ive seen since I left Oklahoma. Love it!
OMG! I LOVE the sound(got my jollies too)and looks! Flipping sweet! Whished I had that baby in my old 69 Firebird!
Very impressive guys, Great work!
Great job with nice people and nice friendship between father and son.🙂👍I'm watching you from Romania.
Love the attention to detail and fixing the oil leak.
Love this build y'all! I have the same 638 casting 4 bolt main block in my 92 stepside reg cab 2wd. Its now a forged flat top 355 with a decked block (slugs are .007 in the hole), Dart iron eagle heads with 2.02/1.6 and mild port work. A big Comp hydraulic roller with Vortec roller lifters, dog bones and hold down tray, It has a 1980s torquer 2 intake port matched to the heads that was my dad's from the back in the 80s, and a quick fuel 850 e85 carb. I took it to Dyno day at my local tuners place and in 95° heat, it made 456/448 thru a 700r4 and a 1998 explorer 8.8, the factory 10 bolt didnt like multiple 300 ft long burnouts. That engine is 10 years old now and it still runs like O.J Simpson
Always love the tricks you teach
Love it! Great video guys.
The vacuum trick is a new one for me, might save my bacon some day. Much appreciated.👍
Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge! Cleaning guy comes to the rescue again!😁