Built 350 Chevys for years until I decided on a 383 for my truck. Never looked back after feeling the difference between the two. 383 is a beast!! . Put one in a 260z Datsun body and ran ten flat through the 1/4😊 and it was mildly built with a set of aluminum heads. 💪😆
Wow! Love those 240 and 260s!! Too many love to post a 383 only makes a lil more tq will run about the same. B F S! lol No comprison between my SR 350 and 383 not even in the same zip code. Always build bigger
As a 55 well two weeks fromm 55 year old man. I grew up in a actual Auto salvage yard. To go out and find a 400ci is like finding a honest politician. No one wanted one due to the "scary" steam hole the heads required. No ma y ordered them and that made them scarcely available. Then they found themselves in the salvage yard and soon the shredder. Making one now a Golden egg. That why it was easy to stroke a 350 with a 400 crank and a set of rods. It was back in the 80's a under $1k build that would lay down 500 hp. Solid cam and decent truck rods.
My father, four decades ago, always said "Horsepower sells cars, but Torque wins races". Not a racer myself, but the cam in my 325 Dodge Hemi puts the peak torque right where I need it for passing on the highway in my '33 Coupe. Gotta love a Hemi.
I was going to build a 350 into a 383 stroker and then I found a good 400 small block and built a 406 sbc with afr heads and a comp cam instead. That engine was a lot of fun. I enjoyed driving sideways behind my house while pissing off all of the whole neighborhood. It made so much torque that I broke the intermediate sprag on two different th350 transmissions so I had a friend build me a beefed up th400 trans and had a 12 bolt rear with 4.10 gears. That was a fun combo.
i have my dad's 66 Chevelle, that he got off his grandmother that she bought new. dad rebuilt the 283 in 1990 and again in 2001. i got in 2020 and drove it for over 2 years, then my dad and i built a 383 stroker. going from basically a stock 283 to a 383 was night and day. i can't stop the 0 to 80 pulls in it.. lol
I build tons of small block chevys on my channel. There's no replacement for displacement! I'm currently finishing up a twin turbo build and getting it ready for the dyno 👌
Usually a 112 lobe sep. Works with 283, 110 a 327, 108 a 350, 106 with 400, depends alot on combo, such as valve size, rpm range, street or track, etc. But this is a better than most magazine or book cams with all ground on 110 lobe separation angle, also dial it in,dont trust gears !
I built a 383 stroker engine with Dart Pro1 ported heads...keith black forged pistons...555 lift cam. High rise single open intake....850 double pumper Holley. 3500 stall TCI converter making 650 hp. & 650 torque at 5,500 rpm. Everything matched up & blue printed. It's a beast in my 1985 iroc z28 camaro!!😡🚘👍
Good runners, would love to see how much the 383 would of picked up getting that 112 lsa cam out of there. I,d bet money with a few degrees shorter duration on both intake and exhaust and a 107 lsa camshaft that 383 would pick up 25-35 hp and torque accross the board.
What I find the most interesting about the 383 small block, is that it seems to be able to produce more power and torque than a common big block. Your mild 383 produced more power than even some 427 engines. Your wilder build was even more impressive as it was getting into 454 territory. You're right the 383 is the engine to go with. With aluminum heads and an aluminum intake manifold it's considerably lighter than a 396 to 454 engine.
Would you mind supplying the full specs or part no of the cam for the mild 383? That curve is pretty much exactly what I'm aiming for, but I simply cannot find a cam matching the ones in the video, and I don't want to mess things up. Many thanks Richard.
Nice. I built a 381 (only 0.020" bored over) and made 511hp and 492tq. And that's with a 650 speed demon. The throttle response is awesome. This way, if you like the power of a wild 350, but you don't want to lose out on the lower speed tq, build a wild 383! You get back the lower speed tq, plus a bit more higher speed hp. Great combo, especially with 4.11 gears for the street! Let's just say I have fun on the street and never even wound out the engine. Granny shift at 5k and she boots! One day I'll open her up
I’ve been having a hell of a time with my 383 not making good power, and it’s overbuilt for what it is, I’ve pulled and re-done the motor 3 times, still puts out less than 260 wheel. Big
Might as well build a 4" stroke, roller cam motor, vortec or aftermarket heads with a modern combustion chamber ( not Edelbrock or copies) cam to match rpm range desired and compression to match the cam and fuel
Thats what i did Dart block ,4.125 bore, 4in. Stroke crank,6 in rods, wiseco pistons , AFR heads , 427. When its time to regresh .030 over , new slugs, presto a 434. A Howards solid roller. It is a torque animal.
@@ronniecox109 way to go I do not see why anyone would build a 383 now that rebuilt stock 400 cranks cost as much as a new 4", cast cranks work fine" and you do not need to go nuts on the rods and pistons if not road racing or marine. WE bored the 62 327 block to 4 1/8 you could bore 283 1/8 so we said why not. Spent a long night at a gas station with a quickway sleeving 16 holes
@@gordocarbo Chet Herbert did hundreds of 4" stroke 6" rods,, injected gas and fuel, blown fuel and gas and street using 283,327 and 350 block He also built several 452 cu in 4 1/4 strokers and won top fuel at the 62 AHRA Nationals at Cado Mills Texas with the 452s and top gas with the 400s The light Shubie blown fuel car was competitive until the larger tires allowed the hemis to hook up Blocks are the limiting factor as opposed to the 60s stronger, raised cam, larger cam tunnel, larger bore blocks are available I like 4"stroke builds I was part of the 62 team 4 1/8 bore on 327 -350 blocks split cylinder walls BTw AMC was better
@@BuzzLOLOL you have to look close because some do specify even the cheap cranks. Scat has different part numbers that end in 5700 or 6000 for obvious reasons
Would've been nice to also have seen a test with the 383 using the Vortec Heads & maybe a set of Double Humps,if for no other reason that most of us that would be building a 383 Stroker either already have one,the other or both types of heads already,or know at least one person....probably more?....with a set of them lying about 'doing nothing' they'd like to quit having to move around (or tripping over!) that they could get cheap?
Hey Richard love your vids man! Many years ago I remember reading an artical in Hot Rod magazine about the 350 chevy should have built that killed those numbers at 475/450 with a mild camaro cam and decent heads. The thing is that they used a 400 bored .030 over, destroked it with a 327 crank and used ford straight 6cyl rods machined to make up the difference. The torque curve was like a straight line after 3k. I've haven't had a chance to build one yet but I've got a 86 K10 with a tired 4.3 and I have a 305 sitting in the garage needing refreshed, what about doing the same with that block with what would be a safe overbore?
I hate the fact that I did not know about you sooner. Lucky for me, I’m still deciding which way to go. I own a 1996 GMC K1500 (4x4) with a 5.7L Vortec engine. That engine still runs but it overheated almost a year ago and I’m thinking about getting it on the road again. I would like more power because it is a heavy truck but, I’m torn between keeping it stock, or bumping it up to a 383, or go LS1. I would like to update my transmission while I’m at it (maybe upgrade its 4L60 or go 4L80). Problem is my current budget. What would be the best option with a $7k budget????
Just saw the video and liked what I heard as this is exactly what I'm looking to build for street and strip. I have a Malibu wagon with a350 4bolt main block. Want to configure to 383 specs but don't exactly know what parts to use. Like to possibly get close to 550hp or maybe 600hp and use pump gas. I see you use AFR195 heads on your build, but what if you wanted to go higher with the AFR 220 Eliminator heads.Tranny choice would be to use the 350 that's in the wagon, change planetary gears include a trans brake and beef up the rear to 3.73 or 4,11. Since I'm new to the game, was wondering if you could compile a build sheet for the wagon. thanks in advance. Ray
So, I guess it's proper to choose reality. Definitly don't want to compromise fuel and drive with headaches. I'll go with the modified 383. Could you provide Cam manufacturer for 232/238-543/538 grind? Or Is there a lower engine assembly you recommend with the same cam, e.g., when choosing a package, should I go with 6" or 5.7" For I or H beam rods? Also with purchasing the AFR 195 Heads, would it suit best to include 1.5 or 1.6 rockers. Like I mentioned before I'm starting out and would appreciate all the advise I can get. Thanks in advance. @@richardholdener1727
One day, I’d love to see someone build an engine to produce maximum power in an rpm range that people actually drive at. I’m old and slow, and rarely rev above 3000 rpm’s.
I think you are confusing the needs of "people" and your own needs. People watch this channel to find out what makes more power. The vast majority of enthusiasts don't run their performance motors below 3000 rpm when accelerating.
@@richardholdener1727 you are correct. My needs are not the same as people’s wants. Just as people describing their daily drivers as race cars. Most people need engines to do things like idle, and make vacuum. It’s cool to see an engine rev to 8000 rpm’s making 1000 hp, and if you have a dedicated track vehicle, great. 2 terms foreign to most people that would build an engine is duty cycle and overall power. Maybe I’ll make a video about those 2 terms that are absent from the automotive community in the next engine I’ll build.
@@richardholdener1727 First, I enjoyed the video and your approach to making these comparisons, and you supported your position well with data and info. Not all of us are just looking for the headliner peak power number and your points are well taken. While many may be looking for the headlining grabbing peak HP number, enthusiasts are building, or having engines built for multiple applications - daily driver, tow rig, street/strip, or competition car or truck, maybe even marine. Personally I'm looking for satisfying performance out of any car I own, for it's intended purpose. We're all looking to make the best decisions possible when spending ever increasing sums of money on mods or a full engine build, regardless of application. It's annoying, and potentially misleading for most street use to constantly see dyno pulls that start at 3000 rpm; what're the mods doing below that? Can the dyno's you use consistently and accurately measure output below that? We should also be seeing brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC), a measure of how efficient the engine is at making power/torque.
On a 030 over 400 small block Chevy, 500 pounds of torque and horsepower is very easy to do I built my 10.3 compression combo using AFR 195 street eliminator heads and a comp cams hydraulic flat tappet .507/.510 lift, 240 intake, 246 exhaust duration @50 on a 110 lsa. My combo did 521hp and 516 ft lbs at the crank on the dyno. I used an edlebrock rpm air gap intake, Holley vacuum secondary 750 carb and 1 and 5/8 full length headers. I Put that in a 69 chevelle combined with a th400 trans, a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 12bolt rear and it ran mid 11’s with a totally streetable package on 93 octane that you can drive anywhere. That car was a lot of fun until it lost in a fight with a telephone pole.
I have a blue print 383 stroker in my 88 iroc with a fresh stock rebuild 700r4, what stall converter would you recommend? The car will be a weekend cruise car with the option to show power ones in a while ? Thank you !
When I was a kid, reading a Popular Hot Rodding article regarding to piston compression heights, I thought about making a 328 cube stroker using a 307 block, 400 short rods, and a medium journal 350 crank. Idk how accurate my math was, back in the mid 1980s lolol. But if I recall correctly, it could work. Can't recall what type of piston to deck clearance this wound up with. This was using stock 307 pistons. I thought I was Einstein 😂
@@richardholdener1727 You are the best man!! Keep doing your thing brother. Theoretically, does this combo work? Or does it have too much piston to deck?
I wonder what max tow torque is possible with cheapish 400 sbc. I'm open to vortecs and tpi and maybe even cheap boost. But, honestly I think I would prefer it naturally aspirated, reliable, and hope for good MPG. All I want is that + max torque.
Chevy guys really used to be stupid about this. The nitrous guys would use heads with giant valves (2.08/2.10" etc.) on a 383, robbing the crank from a 400 SBC. They should have been building 377 destroked 400s or perhaps a 406, for less bore shrouding (flow). A 383 is a torque motor and well suited to heavy cars/daily drivers/trucks on motor. Built a 388 (.060" over) for a 1960s P60 (cab forward 2-1/2 ton chassis) for a friend's ramp truck. Had so much low end with Promaxx 180cc runner heads and a RPM intake that he had to put a Brownie-box behind the 4spd trans and in front of the 2spd differential. The 327 was turning 3000rpm at 65mph, so I put a circle track cam in the 388 for a lot of torque (tight LSA) and it turned out to be a beast at even 2500, so hence the o/d unit.
Also use a closed cooling system with air chamber on top, this allow radiator to be filled to top with no external expansion tank like BMW, works better!
I have 67 camaro with 327. what can i do to this motor on budget build. It currently has a 3 speed manual transmission that i would like to change as well.
I have a BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. 436 HP, will i get more power if i change sylinder heads to AFR 195cc SBC Eliminator Street Heads 1034 or will i spend a lot of money for little gain. i run msd ignition. Holley 750db and edelbrock airgap intake. Love your channel
I want to build a 400 hp 350 with good drivability what cam would you recomend?..im gona run 199cc afr heads dual plane air gap manifold 750 cfm holley..msd ignition and distributor..currently have mid leangh headers and 2.5" exhaust..
Hey mate love you videos.. quick question just building a 383 sbc using a hdy Rolla Howard 110265-12 cam, WITH A 1.60 rocker ratio it should have 565/585, @.050" 233/241 ,scat 9000 crank. H beam eagle rods, single plane Team G Manifold, 850 quick fuel carby. 1.58 pipes Pacmakers, Dart pro1 heads 200cc/64cc 23° Aluminium Cylinder Heads, compression is around 10.50. how much power do you think this combo will make???
I’m building a 383 for my 71 c20. Thinking of the 230/234 duration at 540 lift with 110lsa. I’d like to drive this truck often and have it be a fun street truck. Will this cam kill my lower end a lot because it’s a truck and needs more lower end torque
Hey Richard I enjoy all your videos and information! I was wondering if you had any dyno pulls with Lunati Voodoo flat tappet 268/274 in a sbc & the a Bootlegger HR in a sbc. I watched the short video of a 383 with a bootlegger but no specs of the cam.
Hello, We would love to see how much low-end torque like for a Marine Vortec small block say from 1200Rpm to 42-4500Rpm? We find that all your small block builds drop torque in the idle to 4000Rpm and that won't work in big boats heavy boats love your explanations
@@richardholdener1727 We run our Cruise from 35 to 3700Rpm's and wide Open from 42 to 4400Rpm's it would be great to see what Vortec combination would have the most Torque? I'm an Old man in Miami Fl, been working and owned many 5.7's, I have made many go really fast but in a heavy cruiser fast isn't really the important part. Again Thanks for your quick reply and I really enjoy your TH-cam channel.
My early 383's I used Scat and Eagle stroker cranks and I have had both of the break, very poor quality, for many years now I only use Callies/Howards or Crower crank and rods, you can buy a Callies or Howards rotating assembly from Competition Products and they will internally balance it for you at a very affordable package price, these products will never fail you, I build these engines for road course racing, I have had a couple people swap this LT1 stroker in place of their LS power.
Does it make more sense to put a 350 crank in a 400 block, or a 400 crank in a 350 block? Just curious. You get more cubic inches, but you have to make sure all the rotating stuff doesn't hit the block, and use an external balancer (and flywheel?) in one case, and in the other case, you have the block with the siamesed cylinders so maybe cooling is a worry... Just curious which is "better?"
@@richardholdener1727 makes sense. Thanks. Looking forward to the 396 results. I first worked on my buddy's 396 that he put into a '63 Impala, in...1977.
Especially if you went one size up from the 3/4 race cam and used the legendary 7/8 race cam. Now that would be awesome 7/8 stroke with the 7/8 cam.....
Richard, which chevy 350 block is the best for this. Obviously a 4 bolt main, but im not a huge chevy man, so im not sure which series of block are best and most reliable. And i've got a chevy and I'm wanting to build a engine for it
Hi Richard, i really enjoy your videos and was wondering if you may be able to give me some advice on a 383 TPI Stroker cam i am considering, it is a Crow 11725, adv duration 290/296, 242/246 @0.050" 109 lsa roller. Crow states it's 3500 - 6500 rpm needs 3500 stall. I have a 2200 stall 3.07 rear gear 700r4 89 Corvette, currently it's a 355 ported stock lower intake, edelbrock runners, ported plenum, bbk twin 52mm throttle body 1-3/4 hooker headers RHS 180 Pro action heads 1.6 roller rockers, 0 decked, flat tops, mild comp cam xr264hr-12, 212/218 @ .050' .488"/495" lift, 112 lsa. My question is the Crow cam to much for my set up or should i stick with the comp cam or something else?. Also the comp springs 987-16 [-02] supplied in rhs heads states max lift of .550" can i upgrade the springs to handle higher lift? Thank's for any advice you or anyone may provide?
Hey Richard I built a 383 stroker.forged 3.75 crank,6 inch rods with bolt upgrade,king coated bearings,flat top mahle piston pack,compcams roller cam xr288hr-10,cloyes double roller timing chain,afr 195 street eliminator heads65cc,ultra pro comp cams roller rocker arms 1.6 on intake,1.5 on exhaust,comp cams short travel roller lifters.its 10;7;1 compression.what do you think about that combo.its gonna be carbureted.need help on the best carburetor.going in a 1986 Corvette c4, automatic with 3000 stall,373 gears.? Thank you
Are these SBC HP/TQ numbers directly comparible to the L96 6.0 tests you have done Mr Holdener? Same dyno and such? Your tests of mild, dish piston rectangle port 6.0's, with very mild cams CRUSH the sbc results.
I could never understand why anyone would replace a 350 crank for another 350 crank. The cost to go to a 3.750 crank is minimal at best. I've NEVER been disappointed in with any of the 383's I've built over the years. I can't say the same for the 350's. For me, it's a 383 or nothing.
I like it. Would the 351W/387W combo work with EECIV? Mass air seems like it might, but I am curious if speed density could be tricked into running it. Yes, I'm cheap.
It isn't "cheap" per se, but Sringer performance sells their PiMP eec 4 replacement that is basically Mega squirt in a plug and play package for eec4. You can even pick batch or sequentially fired injection
@@Heathh49008 , yeah but if i read right, Moates is dropping further support for the Quarterhorse stuff in eec4 so it may be the only way in the near future
@@Heathh49008 i know it is expensive but they also have PiMP xshift that controls the 4r70w and e4od. Save on having to get a standalone trans controller
Thinkin about a 383 for my 87 k10.....can i use a stock...or close to stock cam.....so i dont lose power down low.....99 pcnt of driving is,1800 to 3600 rpm
I have an 1988 1 ton Chev Truck I changed out the 454 for a 383 and I am perfectly happy with the 383 so much I am doing another one in 385 for my 1991 1/2 ton truck . For pulling torque the 383 and 350 have no comparison the 383 just pulls along just fine with a 19 Dory boat behind the 1988 Truck and the 1991 Truck with the 350 and pulling the Dory boat the 350 struggles and sucks Hugh amount of gas.
@@jackchetelat651 O know longer have the cam card but what I can tell you is the cam is a Comp can E Stream Energy cam with a mid 400 lift basic a cam for pulling with a starting RPM of 1000 . I am a 64-year-old man that is a fishing guide from Alaska, I need the engine to tow my jet boat and not bog down like a 350 does and the 383 works fine for a trailer puller. The 383 worked so well and runs on less fuel per mile I have already started on the 385 for my 1991 Chev 1/2 ton truck. My 350 block I am working on now has one bad cylinder it has to go for the 8 cylinders to 40 over making for a 385. I am also using the 6 inch connecting rods from Eagle. The heads I am using came from Ebay with 202 and 160 values. The 385 engine is going to be using GM TBI heads with 65.3 chambers.
Ever think about doing a video comparing small block to big block same cubic inch engines? Like a 396 stroked small block to a 396 big block. Or a 427 sbc to a 427 bbc. Would just be neat to see them side by side.
I don't dislike the 350 engine I've had very good experience with them. But I've always wanted a 383 because I believe that if you're going to spend the to rebuild spend a few extra bucks on a stroker crank. I think scat used to sell a 383 kit that was almost a bolt in deal. It had cast steel crank and was 3.68 stroke and needed to have a. 040 overbore to make up for the smaller stroke crank. But it didn't need the extra clearance that 3.75 crank does. I don't know how much they are now but it was like 1150 dollars for the whole bottom end. Crank, rods,pistons rings and bearings
@dannytravis7118 , 327 Forged Steel Vette Crank in a 4 bolt main block , Forged 12:1 Pistons, Ported Heads, Comp Cam ,aluminum intake, 750cfm carb, Headers, 11 inch clutch, Lakewood Blow Proof bell housing, M-21 Muncie 4 speed , 12 bolt posi ,pulls both front tires off the ground, screams to the moon at 11,000rpm, in a 66 Chevelle Super Sport . That line , There's no replacement for displacement always makes me laugh !
Would have been nice to see a 406 comparison thrown in the mix..
The SBC 383 will always hold a place in history! Was the go to small block before the LS motors that succeeded it
Built 350 Chevys for years until I decided on a 383 for my truck. Never looked back after feeling the difference between the two. 383 is a beast!! . Put one in a 260z Datsun body and ran ten flat through the 1/4😊 and it was mildly built with a set of aluminum heads. 💪😆
Wow! Love those 240 and 260s!! Too many love to post a 383 only makes a lil more tq will run about the same.
B F S! lol No comprison between my SR 350 and 383 not even in the same zip code.
Always build bigger
As a 55 well two weeks fromm 55 year old man. I grew up in a actual Auto salvage yard. To go out and find a 400ci is like finding a honest politician. No one wanted one due to the "scary" steam hole the heads required. No ma y ordered them and that made them scarcely available. Then they found themselves in the salvage yard and soon the shredder. Making one now a Golden egg. That why it was easy to stroke a 350 with a 400 crank and a set of rods. It was back in the 80's a under $1k build that would lay down 500 hp. Solid cam and decent truck rods.
My father, four decades ago, always said "Horsepower sells cars, but Torque wins races". Not a racer myself, but the cam in my 325 Dodge Hemi puts the peak torque right where I need it for passing on the highway in my '33 Coupe. Gotta love a Hemi.
I was going to build a 350 into a 383 stroker and then I found a good 400 small block and built a 406 sbc with afr heads and a comp cam instead. That engine was a lot of fun. I enjoyed driving sideways behind my house while pissing off all of the whole neighborhood. It made so much torque that I broke the intermediate sprag on two different th350 transmissions so I had a friend build me a beefed up th400 trans and had a 12 bolt rear with 4.10 gears. That was a fun combo.
More cubic inches = more torque & power = more fun 👍
AFR heads on anything really can make a combo come together they are just good, always
Yup. Pretty much my go to ford a SBF or a trick flow 11R
i have my dad's 66 Chevelle, that he got off his grandmother that she bought new. dad rebuilt the 283 in 1990 and again in 2001. i got in 2020 and drove it for over 2 years, then my dad and i built a 383 stroker. going from basically a stock 283 to a 383 was night and day. i can't stop the 0 to 80 pulls in it.. lol
That "mild" 383" is a fantastic street engine. The numbers are bigger than I thought they would be.
be great in a truck, suv, van, or small rv
I always click on your videos just hoping I haven’t seen it yet cause god I can’t get enough of them😂
I had the same cam in my stock gen II LT1, but with AFR heads and 11.0:1 compression. It made about 460hp to the flywheel
I build tons of small block chevys on my channel. There's no replacement for displacement!
I'm currently finishing up a twin turbo build and getting it ready for the dyno 👌
Do you think a boosted SBC would live in a 1 ton squarebody that does lots of towing?
@@xmo552depends on where you draw the line between abuse and thrashing it.
Usually a 112 lobe sep. Works with 283, 110 a 327, 108 a 350, 106 with 400, depends alot on combo, such as valve size, rpm range, street or track, etc. But this is a better than most magazine or book cams with all ground on 110 lobe separation angle, also dial it in,dont trust gears !
I built a 383 stroker engine with Dart Pro1 ported heads...keith black forged pistons...555 lift cam. High rise single open intake....850 double pumper Holley. 3500 stall TCI converter making 650 hp. & 650 torque at 5,500 rpm. Everything matched up & blue printed. It's a beast in my 1985 iroc z28 camaro!!😡🚘👍
650 hp and 650 lb-ft? 1.697 hp per inch and (even more so) 1.697 lb-ft per inch seems very high for a 555-lift 383
That combo would probably be around 500ish hp and 480 torque, no? 650 hp seems to be more like a well built 400cui combo.
And we all know torque and horsepower are not the same at 5500 rpm.
Bingo ,didn't want to bust anybodies bubble, but since you called it. Can't BS everbody. 1.6 hp. Per cube . Not with that combo. Sorry.
Where did your horsepower peak? I’m guessing north of 7k rpm?
build a 396 sbc with a 350 block and a 3.875 stroker crank
Good runners, would love to see how much the 383 would of picked up getting that 112 lsa cam out of there. I,d bet money with a few degrees shorter duration on both intake and exhaust and a 107 lsa camshaft that 383 would pick up 25-35 hp and torque accross the board.
Sounds like you're thinking LS cam 😂 that's exactly what the "truck Norris" camshaft specs are
What I find the most interesting about the 383 small block, is that it seems to be able to produce more power and torque than a common big block. Your mild 383 produced more power than even some 427 engines. Your wilder build was even more impressive as it was getting into 454 territory.
You're right the 383 is the engine to go with. With aluminum heads and an aluminum intake manifold it's considerably lighter than a 396 to 454 engine.
I had a 383 stroker in my 81 Z28.on the street with NOS..What a ride,,I missed that car,
A 79 with a 350 with a 268he Comp cam, headers, Corvette intake, 750 Holley DP. It would haul the mail!
What's the part numbers on the cams for the 383?
Thanks
Im a ford guy but 383 strokers are awesome motors
Would you mind supplying the full specs or part no of the cam for the mild 383? That curve is pretty much exactly what I'm aiming for, but I simply cannot find a cam matching the ones in the video, and I don't want to mess things up. Many thanks Richard.
More cubic inches = more torque & power = more fun . What's the part numbers on the cams for the 383?Thanks.
Just starting to piece together a build. I’ve got AFR Eliminator 195 heads and a stock 400 small block that needs rebuilding (has a rod knock)
i have a 350.040, with flattops, stroker crank & a comp cam.. My heads are the weakest link but they have springs to match my cam
Nice. I built a 381 (only 0.020" bored over) and made 511hp and 492tq. And that's with a 650 speed demon. The throttle response is awesome.
This way, if you like the power of a wild 350, but you don't want to lose out on the lower speed tq, build a wild 383! You get back the lower speed tq, plus a bit more higher speed hp. Great combo, especially with 4.11 gears for the street! Let's just say I have fun on the street and never even wound out the engine. Granny shift at 5k and she boots! One day I'll open her up
I’ve been having a hell of a time with my 383 not making good power, and it’s overbuilt for what it is, I’ve pulled and re-done the motor 3 times, still puts out less than 260 wheel. Big
That was very good information. I have a 350 and was wondering how to put more power to it and still keep it as a daily driver
Supercharger
@@2015_Rubicnnwhat supercharger?
the first 383 combo he showed would be perfect for that. BB torque down low, idle in traffic with the ac on
Much rather have 406 vs 383 between those 2 choices
Might as well build a 4" stroke, roller cam motor, vortec or aftermarket heads with a modern combustion chamber
( not Edelbrock or copies) cam to match rpm range desired and compression to match the cam and fuel
Fen exactly 💯
Thats what i did Dart block ,4.125 bore, 4in. Stroke crank,6 in rods, wiseco pistons , AFR heads , 427. When its time to regresh .030 over , new slugs, presto a 434. A Howards solid roller. It is a torque animal.
@@ronniecox109 way to go I do not see why anyone would build a 383 now that rebuilt stock 400 cranks cost as much as a new 4", cast cranks work fine" and you do not need to go nuts on the rods and pistons if not road racing or marine. WE bored the 62 327 block to 4 1/8 you could bore 283 1/8 so we said why not. Spent a long night at a gas station with a quickway sleeving 16 holes
4in stroke has been done on 350s but are few and far between
@@gordocarbo Chet Herbert did hundreds of 4" stroke 6" rods,, injected gas and fuel, blown fuel and gas and street using 283,327 and 350 block He also built several 452 cu in 4 1/4 strokers and won top fuel at the 62 AHRA Nationals at Cado Mills Texas with the 452s and top gas with the 400s The light Shubie blown fuel car was competitive until the larger tires allowed the hemis to hook up
Blocks are the limiting factor as opposed to the 60s stronger, raised cam, larger cam tunnel, larger bore blocks are available
I like 4"stroke builds I was part of the 62 team 4 1/8 bore on 327 -350 blocks split cylinder walls BTw AMC was better
Love your videos.keep up the good work
These videos are a wealth of knowledge!
How about a 5.7" vs 6" rod comparison, or maybe a 383 to 396 video? Keep them coming!
5.7 vs 6.0 rods showed no power change
I was also gonna ask his opinion on 383 vs 396 sbc
It doesn't cost any extra money for the 6.0 rods so might as well get them...
@@BuzzLOLOL on a 383 no. On a 350 yes because they crank is the same style but it needs to be a crank used for 6.0 rods
@@BuzzLOLOL you have to look close because some do specify even the cheap cranks. Scat has different part numbers that end in 5700 or 6000 for obvious reasons
Love to try that Mild 383 in my truck!!
Richard ,Ever do a 400 with a 350 crank? My favorite combo as a dirt track guy . .30 over 400 and 3.480-3.500 stroke .....all the rpms
Westech has a 372 Dart motor but the stroke doesn't determine rpm. That is all valve train
My question is the 383 is with 6 inch rods for wild and if you got a similar comparisom video with solid flat tapped
So now you’re letting the cat out of the bag as to how I won all of these street races back in the 90s. Thanks a lot. 😂
Learned my lesson the hard way via an old mentor. Put a bigger arm in it not bigger cams.
Makes all the difference in the world.
💪😁
Would've been nice to also have seen a test with the 383 using the Vortec Heads & maybe a set of Double Humps,if for no other reason that most of us that would be building a 383 Stroker either already have one,the other or both types of heads already,or know at least one person....probably more?....with a set of them lying about 'doing nothing' they'd like to quit having to move around (or tripping over!) that they could get cheap?
We need some Richard holder name brand parts is what we need would love to buy a cam that says Richard holder designed
Power from the tq cammed was more impressive than the others. WOuld be perfect for an Iroc or C4
2hp/ci costs a lot of money lol. Most of my builds generate roughly 1.5-1.55hp/ci with conventional 23° afr heads, super Victor 2, and a solid roller
406 ... 030 over 400 always my favorite
Great combo. My favorite is a 379. .30 over 400 with a 350 crank. All the rpms
Hey Richard love your vids man! Many years ago I remember reading an artical in Hot Rod magazine about the 350 chevy should have built that killed those numbers at 475/450 with a mild camaro cam and decent heads. The thing is that they used a 400 bored .030 over, destroked it with a 327 crank and used ford straight 6cyl rods machined to make up the difference. The torque curve was like a straight line after 3k. I've haven't had a chance to build one yet but I've got a 86 K10 with a tired 4.3 and I have a 305 sitting in the garage needing refreshed, what about doing the same with that block with what would be a safe overbore?
keep the motor bigger-don't destroke it
If using a Vortec 350 (or any '86-up block), get a GM 3.8" stroke crank rotating kit and make a 388.
I had a cast 383 crank break . Do a forged
not needed at this power level
@@richardholdener1727 we didn't think so either
I hate the fact that I did not know about you sooner. Lucky for me, I’m still deciding which way to go. I own a 1996 GMC K1500 (4x4) with a 5.7L Vortec engine. That engine still runs but it overheated almost a year ago and I’m thinking about getting it on the road again. I would like more power because it is a heavy truck but, I’m torn between keeping it stock, or bumping it up to a 383, or go LS1.
I would like to update my transmission while I’m at it (maybe upgrade its 4L60 or go 4L80). Problem is my current budget.
What would be the best option with a $7k budget????
Just saw the video and liked what I heard as this is exactly what I'm looking to build for street and strip. I have a Malibu wagon with a350 4bolt main block. Want to configure to 383 specs but don't exactly know what parts to use. Like to possibly get close to 550hp or maybe 600hp and use pump gas. I see you use AFR195 heads on your build, but what if you wanted to go higher with the AFR 220 Eliminator heads.Tranny choice would be to use the 350 that's in the wagon, change planetary gears include a trans brake and beef up the rear to 3.73 or 4,11. Since I'm new to the game, was wondering if you could compile a build sheet for the wagon. thanks in advance. Ray
you won't like a 600-hp 383 for street driving
So, I guess it's proper to choose reality. Definitly don't want to compromise fuel and drive with headaches. I'll go with the modified 383. Could you provide Cam manufacturer for 232/238-543/538 grind? Or Is there a lower engine assembly you recommend with the same cam, e.g., when choosing a package, should I go with 6" or 5.7" For I or H beam rods? Also with purchasing the AFR 195 Heads, would it suit best to include 1.5 or 1.6 rockers. Like I mentioned before I'm starting out and would appreciate all the advise I can get. Thanks in advance. @@richardholdener1727
How about keeping these 383's cool and what's the best way to go?
This was a great video!
Really appreciate your videos!
One day, I’d love to see someone build an engine to produce maximum power in an rpm range that people actually drive at. I’m old and slow, and rarely rev above 3000 rpm’s.
I think you are confusing the needs of "people" and your own needs. People watch this channel to find out what makes more power. The vast majority of enthusiasts don't run their performance motors below 3000 rpm when accelerating.
@@richardholdener1727 you are correct. My needs are not the same as people’s wants. Just as people describing their daily drivers as race cars. Most people need engines to do things like idle, and make vacuum. It’s cool to see an engine rev to 8000 rpm’s making 1000 hp, and if you have a dedicated track vehicle, great. 2 terms foreign to most people that would build an engine is duty cycle and overall power. Maybe I’ll make a video about those 2 terms that are absent from the automotive community in the next engine I’ll build.
@@richardholdener1727 First, I enjoyed the video and your approach to making these comparisons, and you supported your position well with data and info. Not all of us are just looking for the headliner peak power number and your points are well taken. While many may be looking for the headlining grabbing peak HP number, enthusiasts are building, or having engines built for multiple applications - daily driver, tow rig, street/strip, or competition car or truck, maybe even marine. Personally I'm looking for satisfying performance out of any car I own, for it's intended purpose. We're all looking to make the best decisions possible when spending ever increasing sums of money on mods or a full engine build, regardless of application. It's annoying, and potentially misleading for most street use to constantly see dyno pulls that start at 3000 rpm; what're the mods doing below that? Can the dyno's you use consistently and accurately measure output below that? We should also be seeing brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC), a measure of how efficient the engine is at making power/torque.
Great test to show how much more torque you gain. Like to see 400 added in show where it stands.
Same here I'm getting ready to build a 406 would like to see how they compare
@@tron6966 iif a blueprint 400 is any indication 500ft lbs or more
400 tpi? Even more torque
Put a 4" crank in your 350, 409 cubes
On a 030 over 400 small block Chevy, 500 pounds of torque and horsepower is very easy to do I built my 10.3 compression combo using AFR 195 street eliminator heads and a comp cams hydraulic flat tappet .507/.510 lift, 240 intake, 246 exhaust duration @50 on a 110 lsa. My combo did 521hp and 516 ft lbs at the crank on the dyno. I used an edlebrock rpm air gap intake, Holley vacuum secondary 750 carb and 1 and 5/8 full length headers. I Put that in a 69 chevelle combined with a th400 trans, a 3000 stall converter and 4.10 12bolt rear and it ran mid 11’s with a totally streetable package on 93 octane that you can drive anywhere. That car was a lot of fun until it lost in a fight with a telephone pole.
I have a blue print 383 stroker in my 88 iroc with a fresh stock rebuild 700r4, what stall converter would you recommend? The car will be a weekend cruise car with the option to show power ones in a while ? Thank you !
what is the cam and intake and gears?
When I was a kid, reading a Popular Hot Rodding article regarding to piston compression heights, I thought about making a 328 cube stroker using a 307 block, 400 short rods, and a medium journal 350 crank. Idk how accurate my math was, back in the mid 1980s lolol. But if I recall correctly, it could work. Can't recall what type of piston to deck clearance this wound up with. This was using stock 307 pistons. I thought I was Einstein 😂
DECK HEIGHT MUST EQUAL ROD LENGTH PLUS 1/2 STROKE PLUS PISTON COMPRESSION HEIGHT
@@richardholdener1727 You are the best man!! Keep doing your thing brother. Theoretically, does this combo work? Or does it have too much piston to deck?
I wonder what max tow torque is possible with cheapish 400 sbc. I'm open to vortecs and tpi and maybe even cheap boost.
But, honestly I think I would prefer it naturally aspirated, reliable, and hope for good MPG. All I want is that + max torque.
VORTEC HEADS WITH TPI ON A MILD CAM 400
@@richardholdener1727
Quoting a friend of mine, "thank you thank you thank you......thank you. "
400 cuin and 195AFR heads with a EDE RPM manifold . Great for max HP under 5500rpm with a mild HR cam 215deg @.050
What cam was used in the Wild 383. You gave the specs but not the brand or Cam number. You did on the other cams used. Thanks
Comp
Cam part number? Love your videos. Thanks love the videos@@richardholdener1727
Chevy guys really used to be stupid about this. The nitrous guys would use heads with giant valves (2.08/2.10" etc.) on a 383, robbing the crank from a 400 SBC. They should have been building 377 destroked 400s or perhaps a 406, for less bore shrouding (flow). A 383 is a torque motor and well suited to heavy cars/daily drivers/trucks on motor. Built a 388 (.060" over) for a 1960s P60 (cab forward 2-1/2 ton chassis) for a friend's ramp truck. Had so much low end with Promaxx 180cc runner heads and a RPM intake that he had to put a Brownie-box behind the 4spd trans and in front of the 2spd differential. The 327 was turning 3000rpm at 65mph, so I put a circle track cam in the 388 for a lot of torque (tight LSA) and it turned out to be a beast at even 2500, so hence the o/d unit.
Brownie box ??????
@@getthegaff1 Auxilary transmission behind the original, two speeds- 1:1 straight drive and one overdrive (aprox .7:1), and also a neutral.
Also use a closed cooling system with air chamber on top, this allow radiator to be filled to top with no external expansion tank like BMW, works better!
I have 67 camaro with 327. what can i do to this motor on budget build. It currently has a 3 speed manual transmission that i would like to change as well.
cam and springs
Curious too how much hp would a 383 with stock vortec heads and mild cam and usual rpm air gap intake and 750 carb ?
I have a BluePrint Engines GM 383 C.I.D. 436 HP, will i get more power if i change sylinder heads to AFR 195cc SBC Eliminator Street Heads 1034 or will i spend a lot of money for little gain. i run msd ignition. Holley 750db and edelbrock airgap intake.
Love your channel
yes you will make more power-not sure if it will be $2000 worth
I want to build a 400 hp 350 with good drivability what cam would you recomend?..im gona run 199cc afr heads dual plane air gap manifold 750 cfm holley..msd ignition and distributor..currently have mid leangh headers and 2.5" exhaust..
you will need a decent cam to make 400 hp (like 224/230)
I have a 350 and want to build ot up for towing and need a list of what i should do ?
lots of 350 vids up for you to pick your desired power curve
Hey mate love you videos.. quick question just building a 383 sbc using a hdy Rolla Howard 110265-12 cam, WITH A 1.60 rocker ratio it should have 565/585, @.050" 233/241 ,scat 9000 crank. H beam eagle rods, single plane Team G Manifold, 850 quick fuel carby. 1.58 pipes Pacmakers, Dart pro1 heads 200cc/64cc 23° Aluminium Cylinder Heads, compression is around 10.50. how much power do you think this combo will make???
long tubes?
yes, long tubes @@richardholdener1727
so what do you think ?@@richardholdener1727
I’m building a 383 for my 71 c20. Thinking of the 230/234 duration at 540 lift with 110lsa. I’d like to drive this truck often and have it be a fun street truck. Will this cam kill my lower end a lot because it’s a truck and needs more lower end torque
YOU WILL STILL HAVE TORQUE IN A 383 WITH A 230 CAM
I’m guessing it’s a mild cam for a 383. I’m also running afr eliminators
Hey Richard I enjoy all your videos and information! I was wondering if you had any dyno pulls with Lunati Voodoo flat tappet 268/274 in a sbc & the a Bootlegger HR in a sbc. I watched the short video of a 383 with a bootlegger but no specs of the cam.
I don't think those specific cams
Hello, We would love to see how much low-end torque like for a Marine Vortec small block say from 1200Rpm to 42-4500Rpm? We find that all your small block builds drop torque in the idle to 4000Rpm and that won't work in big boats heavy boats love your explanations
can your ever see 1200 rpm at wot?
@@richardholdener1727 We run our Cruise from 35 to 3700Rpm's and wide Open from 42 to 4400Rpm's it would be great to see what Vortec combination would have the most Torque? I'm an Old man in Miami Fl, been working and owned many 5.7's, I have made many go really fast but in a heavy cruiser fast isn't really the important part. Again Thanks for your quick reply and I really enjoy your TH-cam channel.
My early 383's I used Scat and Eagle stroker cranks and I have had both of the break, very poor quality, for many years now I only use Callies/Howards or Crower crank and rods, you can buy a Callies or Howards rotating assembly from Competition Products and they will internally balance it for you at a very affordable package price, these products will never fail you, I build these engines for road course racing, I have had a couple people swap this LT1 stroker in place of their LS power.
I built a 700 horsepower 383 stroker for my 69 Chevelle I'll be giving it to 350 shots of nitrous nice video
Does it make more sense to put a 350 crank in a 400 block, or a 400 crank in a 350 block? Just curious. You get more cubic inches, but you have to make sure all the rotating stuff doesn't hit the block, and use an external balancer (and flywheel?) in one case, and in the other case, you have the block with the siamesed cylinders so maybe cooling is a worry... Just curious which is "better?"
most don't like to deal with Siamesed bores and steam holes-so 383 is more common unless an after market block is used
@@richardholdener1727 makes sense. Thanks. Looking forward to the 396 results. I first worked on my buddy's 396 that he put into a '63 Impala, in...1977.
I would like to see results of a 350 stroked with a 3 7/8 stroke.
Especially if you went one size up from the 3/4 race cam and used the legendary 7/8 race cam. Now that would be awesome 7/8 stroke with the 7/8 cam.....
A 400 CID has even more cubic inches! :)
Richard when are you gonna "Big Bang" the 350 on some turbos!!!!!!!
Richard, which chevy 350 block is the best for this. Obviously a 4 bolt main, but im not a huge chevy man, so im not sure which series of block are best and most reliable. And i've got a chevy and I'm wanting to build a engine for it
in production blocks, I'm not sure any one is better than another
Hi Richard, i really enjoy your videos and was wondering if you may be able to give me some advice on a 383 TPI Stroker cam i am considering, it is a Crow 11725, adv duration 290/296, 242/246 @0.050" 109 lsa roller. Crow states it's 3500 - 6500 rpm needs 3500 stall. I have a 2200 stall 3.07 rear gear 700r4 89 Corvette, currently it's a 355 ported stock lower intake, edelbrock runners, ported plenum, bbk twin 52mm throttle body 1-3/4 hooker headers RHS 180 Pro action heads 1.6 roller rockers, 0 decked, flat tops, mild comp cam xr264hr-12, 212/218 @ .050' .488"/495" lift, 112 lsa. My question is the Crow cam to much for my set up or should i stick with the comp cam or something else?. Also the comp springs 987-16 [-02] supplied in rhs heads states max lift of .550" can i upgrade the springs to handle higher lift? Thank's for any advice you or anyone may provide?
that is not a good cam choice for that application-it has too much duration for a TPI motor
Thank's that's what i reckon to.
Great content
How much stroke can a sbc take4-425³"×4.030bore?
I have seen 4.0 inch in a stock block, but it takes a lot of grinding and clearancing the rod bolts and small base circle cam
Iv got a 383 tunnel ram dual 750 Holley brawlers. 10.7:1 pump gas , runs 10.7 in the quarter hitting 130 mph
Great video.
Hey Richard I built a 383 stroker.forged 3.75 crank,6 inch rods with bolt upgrade,king coated bearings,flat top mahle piston pack,compcams roller cam xr288hr-10,cloyes double roller timing chain,afr 195 street eliminator heads65cc,ultra pro comp cams roller rocker arms 1.6 on intake,1.5 on exhaust,comp cams short travel roller lifters.its 10;7;1 compression.what do you think about that combo.its gonna be carbureted.need help on the best carburetor.going in a 1986 Corvette c4, automatic with 3000 stall,373 gears.? Thank you
good combo
You ask why not build a 383. I say why not build a 406? If you really want torque, how about TPI?
I've only built old small blocks...I'm intranced by ls, lt blocks
But for daily driving/non-racing and some okayish mpg, would a 383 even make sense?
smaller would get better mpg
@@richardholdener1727 L99 4.3 for the win!!
Are these SBC HP/TQ numbers directly comparible to the L96 6.0 tests you have done Mr Holdener? Same dyno and such? Your tests of mild, dish piston rectangle port 6.0's, with very mild cams CRUSH the sbc results.
Ls has superior heads add a set of aluminum heads the sbc will close the gap alot
I have a chevy small block 267 what can I do to make it faster because it slows as hell....
Throw that into the scrap bin!
yes-boost
I could never understand why anyone would replace a 350 crank for another 350 crank. The cost to go to a 3.750 crank is minimal at best. I've NEVER been disappointed in with any of the 383's I've built over the years. I can't say the same for the 350's.
For me, it's a 383 or nothing.
Huhhhhhhhh 350s are really nice motors as well!!
400
I like it.
Would the 351W/387W combo work with EECIV? Mass air seems like it might, but I am curious if speed density could be tricked into running it.
Yes, I'm cheap.
It isn't "cheap" per se, but Sringer performance sells their PiMP eec 4 replacement that is basically Mega squirt in a plug and play package for eec4. You can even pick batch or sequentially fired injection
@@AndyR1982 Yeah... $2500... It's a bit salty.
@@Heathh49008 , yeah but if i read right, Moates is dropping further support for the Quarterhorse stuff in eec4 so it may be the only way in the near future
Separate trans controller for the E4OD and a Megasquirt may be my only rational option.
95 F250...
@@Heathh49008 i know it is expensive but they also have PiMP xshift that controls the 4r70w and e4od. Save on having to get a standalone trans controller
How is the miles per gallon on the 383 daily driver?
NO IDEA
I’m not being a wisenhiemer, I really want to know. Thinking about breathing new life into an old 350 with a 383
@@chadrowlett893 /the more the efficiency is, and the more power it makes, means it takes less throttle to maintain any speed.
Thinkin about a 383 for my 87 k10.....can i use a stock...or close to stock cam.....so i dont lose power down low.....99 pcnt of driving is,1800 to 3600 rpm
something slightly bigger would help without any loss
Can the vortec be a direct replacement for a 5.7 tbi in an 87 k10?
different intakes and heads
Like your vids,,but you it seems you regularly use cams with too much LSA for the build.
these are not builds-they are tests, and cam choice is much more than lsa
I have an 1988 1 ton Chev Truck I changed out the 454 for a 383 and I am perfectly happy with the 383 so much I am doing another one in 385 for my 1991 1/2 ton truck .
For pulling torque the 383 and 350 have no comparison the 383 just pulls along just fine with a 19 Dory boat behind the 1988 Truck and the 1991 Truck with the 350 and pulling the Dory boat the 350 struggles and sucks Hugh amount of gas.
What cam are you running
@@jackchetelat651 O know longer have the cam card but what I can tell you is the cam is a Comp can E Stream Energy cam with a mid 400 lift basic a cam for pulling with a starting RPM of 1000 .
I am a 64-year-old man that is a fishing guide from Alaska, I need the engine to tow my jet boat and not bog down like a 350 does and the 383 works fine for a trailer puller.
The 383 worked so well and runs on less fuel per mile I have already started on the 385 for my 1991 Chev 1/2 ton truck.
My 350 block I am working on now has one bad cylinder it has to go for the 8 cylinders to 40 over making for a 385.
I am also using the 6 inch connecting rods from Eagle.
The heads I am using came from Ebay with 202 and 160 values.
The 385 engine is going to be using GM TBI heads with 65.3 chambers.
Richard good job as always! What happens if you change bore from 4.00" to 4.165"?
4.165-bore smc? 4.125 is common for after market or 400 blocks
you can overheat with stock 400 blok, go as small over as you can
Air gap iron 2 barrel, what was that off ?
5 min' 6 sec' in.
pontiac
my 6000 pound tahoe needs sum crazy the 383 supercharged ion know
Ever think about doing a video comparing small block to big block same cubic inch engines? Like a 396 stroked small block to a 396 big block. Or a 427 sbc to a 427 bbc. Would just be neat to see them side by side.
Been there don that except at really low rpm BBC rules, it's the heads but think weight BBC also holds up in HD or Boats
Is it better to build a 383 or a 427?
A 427 REQUIRES AN AFTER MARKET BLOCK
Add a superram for insane torque!
TPI and a cheap turbo setup for 700+ tq
I don't dislike the 350 engine I've had very good experience with them. But I've always wanted a 383 because I believe that if you're going to spend the to rebuild spend a few extra bucks on a stroker crank. I think scat used to sell a 383 kit that was almost a bolt in deal. It had cast steel crank and was 3.68 stroke and needed to have a. 040 overbore to make up for the smaller stroke crank. But it didn't need the extra clearance that 3.75 crank does. I don't know how much they are now but it was like 1150 dollars for the whole bottom end. Crank, rods,pistons rings and bearings
There are several kits on the market.
@dannytravis7118 ,
327
Forged Steel Vette Crank in a 4 bolt main block , Forged 12:1 Pistons, Ported Heads, Comp Cam ,aluminum intake, 750cfm carb, Headers, 11 inch clutch, Lakewood Blow Proof bell housing, M-21 Muncie 4 speed , 12 bolt posi ,pulls both front tires off the ground, screams to the moon at 11,000rpm, in a 66 Chevelle Super Sport .
That line ,
There's no replacement for displacement
always makes me laugh !