The first 1,000 people to click the link will get a full year of Premium membership to Craftsy for only $1.49: go.craftsy.com/nerdyknitting/ (offer valid for new members only) Thanks to Craftsy for sponsoring this video!
I think my best advice is to be prepared to work and frog and rework until it's perfect for you. Doing all the math is super important and helpful, but nothing beats just making changes when needed. Never assume because you are a beginner, that a pattern is to be blindly followed!
Trying on, and being willing to frog back, are really helpful. I just finished playing “yarn chicken,” but I was able to use my kitchen scale to see ahead of time that I would run out of yarn. By the end of the first sleeve, I had a little less than half my remaining skein left. So, I frogged back the sleeve I had almost finished, and just made it slightly narrower. Not only will I have enough yarn now, but also I think the slimmer sleeve will look better.
There's an Norwegian invention called Maskemåler that has really changed my swatch game! It's a clear ruler, but it has drawn stitches in several different guages on it. You just place it on your swatch and make the drawings line up with your actual stitches and there's your gauge!
This unintentionally answered why a sweater I finished recently came out a little larger than I expected. It was the super wash! -- Will definitely be following these tips for my next sweater.
I’m with you on picking the right measurements. I’m both broad shouldered and busty. The upper torso measurement is helpful. Swatching is sometimes fun and helps me understand that a particular stitch will be a disaster.
I needed to hear this today. I'm still pretty new to sweater making and I've been measuring my bust to determine my sweater size. and after measuring my under bust.... well thats five inches of difference between those two points on my body. so the sweater I was halfway done making was going to have something like 8 inches of positive ease which is not what I want. So I'd rather learn this lesson now, frog my work and then re-do it so I end up with a sweater I'm actually going to love wearing that fits well.
I am in the process of knitting my 4th garment. First one was executed well but it's a tiny bit small and I used an acrylic yarn I don't love any more. The second is a perfect fit but it's too warm . I don't love the color of the 3rd and now I am worried I picked the wrong size even though I have measured myself and the fit of all my favorite clothes. 😂 I will get it right eventually
Oh me, oh my… I am reminded of when I was an Intrepid Baby Knitter™️ and I knit half of a sweater in what I now know is a DK cotton yarn before realizing “man, this is only half done and it’s really heavy” 😅 The pattern was totally written for a yarn that was not only 100% wool but *woolen spun* at that 😂 Good thing it’s just yarn… I could rip it out, rewind it and save it for something more…appropriate 🥲
Whoa, well that explains why my crochet sweaters all being big in the shoulders and yoke even when I have chosen very little or no positive ease on the bust! I am wayyy past a B cup! I haven't knit a sweater yet but I am very glad I heard about the upper torso measurement first! A little intimidating to have to modify on my first sweater but I really like a good fit.
Thank you so much for all this sdvice ! I have modtly avoided sweaters so far but now feel ready to plunge in and have a go . Your videos have really helped me gain that confidence .
I'm about to cast on my first cardigan ever and I'm SO GLAD I saw this first. So many great tips! Espeically doing 3 swatches in 1 and using your own row gauge instead of the pattern. Thank-you for this!
I am not that busty, but my shoulders are narrow. It took me a long time to figure out how to adjust for that, but I have it down now. Or at least I'm working on it. I hadn't realized that superwash was more like plant fiber than non-superwash. I knew it tended to grow, but not why. Good info all around. Thank you.
What I've learned about doing complicated sleeve patterns is knit them in the round both at the same time with steeks between the two sleeves! Last time I had a complicated sweater sleeve pattern it ended up being a big schmozzle not worth trying to fix so did adjustment that would be OK for someone from the charity bin. That sweater was also made with super wash.......never again for a sweater without adding some other yarn that isn't super wash!
I absolutely hate swatcing it really seems wasteful to me. So I found the best way to make me swatch and have it be correct is to knit a sleeve. If my sweater is top down then I will cast on the number of stitches that I'm supposed to have, work until it's about to my elbow, then wash and block it. if its bottom up, I start with a provisional cast on for the cuff and go to elbow again. that way I can see what my gauge is in the round. If I'm knitting a cardigan then I will cast on for the back if it's top down and knit the back then wash and block. that way I don't feel like I'm wasting yarn. If I'm totally off on gauge then all I've done is knit a bit and can undo that. It's more about making something make sense in my head than anything else.
Great ideas! But swatching isn't wasteful - you can unravel and re-use the yarn (or save it for an emergency if something happens to your garment you have some extra yarn).
Thank you very much for this information. Your video are very inspiring. As a very beginner knitting I feel a bit overwhelmed with all this info. Do you have any suggestion for a beginner knitter to learn the correct way of knitting?
Honestly, the best thing to do is to choose projects that interest you and learn the skills you need to create them. And continue doing that with all your future projects.
I appreciate the tips. Like a number of people, I sometimes think I need a bigger size than is really necessary because I'm very busty. Using the upper torso measurement tends to work better for me. I do need to learn how to include bust darts tho.
If I am knitting with a yarn I know, and if I am knitting bottom up, I don't swatch but I do knit at least six inches of sleeve first, then do my measurements to check fabric etc
I am petite (5’2”) with narrow shoulders. I sew a lot of my clothes and use my garment sewing background when I size and fit a sweater. I find that sweaters (clothes) look better if I get a good fit at the shoulder and neck. I don’t look like a 2 year old wearing her mother’s clothes. So I tend to choose my size based on my upper bust and shoulder width, relying on pattern schematics. I also take my measurements every time I start a new garment. Also when I am shortening the length of a sweater, I often shorten above and below the waist to get a more proportional fit, rather than just at the bottom depending on the sweater design, of course.
Yes! It was a game changer for me - I don't mind swatching as much now because I know that all the info I need will be in that one swatch and won't have to take time to make another.
I could've used this video years ago lol! That's okay because you confirmed a lot of things I learned from the hard way and there was some new stuff, too. Fantastic information!
Hi! Where did you go to school? I am very impressed with your knowledge. Do you recommend just using tube for a novice-intermediate knitter. My goal is knitting sweater ty
I took the Master Hand Knitting course through The Knitting Guild Association. But you don't need to go through that to knit sweaters! Reading articles, books, and watching videos will help tremendously.
I'm learning with each sweater . Taking notes , you are so helpful . ❤️ I have your videos on a repeat play list :D My sweaters show my progress , each one coming slightly closer . :) Last one before current one on needles , I put on sweater and thought . we are FINALLY good , shoulders and upper chest is good, was expecting more ease in full bust area but at least not too tight just seems to be only 1-2 inches of positive ease around the full bust , hugs bust without flattening , so I THOUGHT I was there ........haha THEN .....I move arm to side to reach for something or lord forbid raise my arms ......garment does not fall back into place, 😮 it forms a w i d e U bunched up at upper bust like it is some sort of shelf up there lol It clearly needs to be tugged back down, fabric wants to stay above bust 😮 Bummer, I hate fussing with clothes when I wear them . Problem to solve why fabric does not fall back down in place do I need more than 2 inches of positive ease so it just drops back down ? I must work this out . :) I have been searching the web on my quest to see if some wonderful person willingly put up a photo of their garment, or mentions the same thing I am seeing ,with fabric gathering above full bust , and how they corrected it. I will get there eventually Currently on the needles and next attempt has 4 extra stitches added at underarm when I cast on for sleeve separation , removed extra stitches for the sleeves, don't need them too baggy , although pattern does have full sleeves right down to the cuff. Body stitches can be removed for waist shaping . My journey continues
@@NerdyKnitting OH yes , in my case I do agree . I have watched NINE Bust shaping hacks , and shorts rows are needed on my sweaters Upper bust and Full Bust are 6" different . I'm a short chubby narrow shoulders , short waisted sort, Adding additional fabric but not in length at the sides does help since I don't have a lot space between bust and waist. For now Yoke sweaters have set me back to beginner level , something about this construction . I am working on another now . I could be stubborn and just refuse to make yoke sweaters but am a mystery lover at heart . "Miss Marple" 😁
I never understand whether the pattern measurement includes the ease or not. For example, if your bust is 34, do I pick the size with 38 bust if I want 4" positive ease?
The pattern will have finished garment measurements (the 38" in your example) - that tells you exactly how large the actual garment is. The pattern may also have corresponding body size measurements or tell you to choose the size that gives you the desired amount of ease. You can decide if you want to use the recommended size or choose a different finished measurement size.
Such helpful advice! My problem with swatching is the extra yarn seems wasteful, especially for knitting in the round and running the yarn in back. I buy nice quality yarn which is expensive, so having to buy a whole extra hank of yarn for swatching seems excessive. I still swatch for fitted items though. Someone suggested ripping it back out after making, blocking, and measuring the swatch and reusing the yarn. Seems like bloomed yarn would look different than before blocking. I may try this though if I save the yarn for a less critical area, or possibly helical stitch it into the sweater. Do you have any experience with reusing swatched yarn?
I reuse the swatch yarn all the time! The only time I don't is if it's stranded colorwork or mohair (which is very sticky and doesn't like to be unraveled).
@@Lnjay13flowers Patty Lyons has a method for swatching ‘in the round’ without running yarn in the back. Mark Vogel demo’d it on his channel recently. I don’t know if it’s been discussed on this channel yet. I watch Nerdy Knitting pretty consistently, but I may have missed an episode or two here and there.
If you swatching the round and don’t want to waste that yarn, after it has been blocked, find a book or piece of lumber or something around your house that is hard and flat. Slip that item into the swatch between the fabric and the back strands (like an arm in a sleeve). You can then measure your gauge properly but you don’t have to cut those back strands and the yarn is still useable if you need that extra little bit. Just remember you need to do a large swatch for this to work - no tiny 4” x 4” swatches. Go big! I have also not cut the swatch from the ball or skein. I just leave a long tail between the swatch and the skein and wash and block it while attached. Good with plant yarns that can be hard to join mid work.
How do you knit two sleeves at the same time especially if you're supposed to pick up stitches and then knit? Do you knit the sleeves and thengraft them?
You could pick up the stitches for each sleeve separately and, once you have everything on separate needles, combine them on one using Magic Loop or Two-Circulars method.
@@NerdyKnittingI would love to see a video on this. (Putting two sleeves on one long circular needle) great idea than you are guaranteed they will be the same size.
When I want to learn something new, I get a bit obsessive, and I found the Master's program a few months after first learning to knit. That seemed like the most logical way to learn everything that I wanted to know.
I realize that the circle starts at the neck and enlarges to encircle the shoulders; then the large circle is divided into body and sleeves at the underarm. But how fast the neck circle enlarges into a yoke affects how the shoulders will lay over the body before the sleeve and body are split. It is this (horizontal?) distance that I have trouble estimating or even measuring. On a set in sleeve sweater it would be the distance from the neckline to shoulder point. Since my shoulders are somewhat broad, I don’t know how to modify to create the correct distance in a yoke pattern. I hope this makes my question clearer.
@@katerogers5365 For broad shoulders - start with the upper torso measurement when choosing your 'bust' size + the amount of ease you want (at least 2" at the upper torso so you can move your shoulders/arms comfortably). As for how fast the yoke increases are done - that's going to change with each pattern/designer so it's harder to give more specific guidelines. But by the time the 'circle' is complete and ready to divide, it has to fit comfortably around the shoulders and bust so you could measure your body near the underarm area - measuring around your shoulders and body - then compare that to the final yoke stitch count before dividing the body and sleeves for the size you're considering to see if the circumference will work for your frame.
I agree with all recommendations, but TRY IT ON AS YOU KNIT. Try it on OFTEN to judge the fit. Yes, it can be annoying, but you will spot mistakes and POOR FIT before you knit for hours only to frog it. 👍🧶🇨🇦
Wouldn’t this only work for knitting in the round, or no? I just started learning to knit two weeks ago so I don’t know 😅 still learning all sorts of terminology and stuff
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
The first 1,000 people to click the link will get a full year of Premium membership to Craftsy for only $1.49: go.craftsy.com/nerdyknitting/ (offer valid for new members only)
Thanks to Craftsy for sponsoring this video!
Is it really $1.49 a year? Wow 👌
I think my best advice is to be prepared to work and frog and rework until it's perfect for you. Doing all the math is super important and helpful, but nothing beats just making changes when needed. Never assume because you are a beginner, that a pattern is to be blindly followed!
Great advice!
I would add try it on as you go, when you can❤
Trying on, and being willing to frog back, are really helpful. I just finished playing “yarn chicken,” but I was able to use my kitchen scale to see ahead of time that I would run out of yarn. By the end of the first sleeve, I had a little less than half my remaining skein left. So, I frogged back the sleeve I had almost finished, and just made it slightly narrower. Not only will I have enough yarn now, but also I think the slimmer sleeve will look better.
Once I started garment knitting I had to accept that I am going to need to rip things back. It’s just part of the process.
I would only add to keep record of your measurements for future sweater making. What went well, and what may not.😊
There's an Norwegian invention called Maskemåler that has really changed my swatch game! It's a clear ruler, but it has drawn stitches in several different guages on it. You just place it on your swatch and make the drawings line up with your actual stitches and there's your gauge!
How neat! That sounds like a great tool.
This is the first time ever, anywhere, that I've heard about measuring the upper torso! I am an E cup so it is very relevant to me. Thank you!
Believe me - your sweaters will fit so much better by using that upper torso measurement!
This unintentionally answered why a sweater I finished recently came out a little larger than I expected. It was the super wash! -- Will definitely be following these tips for my next sweater.
I’m with you on picking the right measurements.
I’m both broad shouldered and busty. The upper torso measurement is helpful.
Swatching is sometimes fun and helps me understand that a particular stitch will be a disaster.
Yes, swatching can tell you so much about a yarn and stitch pattern!
I needed to hear this today. I'm still pretty new to sweater making and I've been measuring my bust to determine my sweater size. and after measuring my under bust.... well thats five inches of difference between those two points on my body. so the sweater I was halfway done making was going to have something like 8 inches of positive ease which is not what I want. So I'd rather learn this lesson now, frog my work and then re-do it so I end up with a sweater I'm actually going to love wearing that fits well.
I am in the process of knitting my 4th garment. First one was executed well but it's a tiny bit small and I used an acrylic yarn I don't love any more. The second is a perfect fit but it's too warm . I don't love the color of the 3rd and now I am worried I picked the wrong size even though I have measured myself and the fit of all my favorite clothes. 😂 I will get it right eventually
I have one favorite top and one favorite cardigan. I use these two for shaping all my clothes. It works like a charm.
Great idea!
This was so helpful - switching the upper bust measurement made for better fitting garments.
How cool is this knitter just chatting away and doing reverse knitting (I think you call it) without even thinking about it!
Lots of practice! 🤣
I'm only 8:40 in and this is already helping me (as a DDD cup size) a LOT
Oh me, oh my… I am reminded of when I was an Intrepid Baby Knitter™️ and I knit half of a sweater in what I now know is a DK cotton yarn before realizing “man, this is only half done and it’s really heavy” 😅 The pattern was totally written for a yarn that was not only 100% wool but *woolen spun* at that 😂 Good thing it’s just yarn… I could rip it out, rewind it and save it for something more…appropriate 🥲
That's such a common mistake - so many knitters have done that! But, like you said, at least you can salvage the yarn for something else!
this is the best explanation of ease that i have heard on a knitting podcast!
Thank you!
Whoa, well that explains why my crochet sweaters all being big in the shoulders and yoke even when I have chosen very little or no positive ease on the bust! I am wayyy past a B cup! I haven't knit a sweater yet but I am very glad I heard about the upper torso measurement first! A little intimidating to have to modify on my first sweater but I really like a good fit.
Thank you so much for all this sdvice ! I have modtly avoided sweaters so far but now feel ready to plunge in and have a go . Your videos have really helped me gain that confidence .
I'm about to cast on my first cardigan ever and I'm SO GLAD I saw this first. So many great tips! Espeically doing 3 swatches in 1 and using your own row gauge instead of the pattern. Thank-you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
I am not that busty, but my shoulders are narrow. It took me a long time to figure out how to adjust for that, but I have it down now. Or at least I'm working on it. I hadn't realized that superwash was more like plant fiber than non-superwash. I knew it tended to grow, but not why. Good info all around. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!
So much great advice as I’m preparing to cast on my first adult cardigan. I’ve made two cardigans for toddlers, but nothing for myself yet.
What I've learned about doing complicated sleeve patterns is knit them in the round both at the same time with steeks between the two sleeves! Last time I had a complicated sweater sleeve pattern it ended up being a big schmozzle not worth trying to fix so did adjustment that would be OK for someone from the charity bin. That sweater was also made with super wash.......never again for a sweater without adding some other yarn that isn't super wash!
I absolutely hate swatcing it really seems wasteful to me. So I found the best way to make me swatch and have it be correct is to knit a sleeve. If my sweater is top down then I will cast on the number of stitches that I'm supposed to have, work until it's about to my elbow, then wash and block it. if its bottom up, I start with a provisional cast on for the cuff and go to elbow again. that way I can see what my gauge is in the round. If I'm knitting a cardigan then I will cast on for the back if it's top down and knit the back then wash and block. that way I don't feel like I'm wasting yarn. If I'm totally off on gauge then all I've done is knit a bit and can undo that. It's more about making something make sense in my head than anything else.
Great ideas! But swatching isn't wasteful - you can unravel and re-use the yarn (or save it for an emergency if something happens to your garment you have some extra yarn).
Thank you very much for this information. Your video are very inspiring. As a very beginner knitting I feel a bit overwhelmed with all this info. Do you have any suggestion for a beginner knitter to learn the correct way of knitting?
Honestly, the best thing to do is to choose projects that interest you and learn the skills you need to create them. And continue doing that with all your future projects.
I appreciate the tips. Like a number of people, I sometimes think I need a bigger size than is really necessary because I'm very busty. Using the upper torso measurement tends to work better for me. I do need to learn how to include bust darts tho.
Bust darts is definitely an important thing - will have to make a video about that!
Great info. You explain so clearly. Thank you.
Thank you!
Thank you for this video! I'm so glad I found your channel. I feel like I have a better understanding of some technical ideas as a beginner now.
Welcome! I'm glad you found the channel and that you find it helpful!
This has always been a tricky thing for me. Thank you for sharing this information with us, it is really helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have a video about swatching with the 3 needles? Very curious
Yes, there's a video about gauge and swatching where I talk about it.
If I am knitting with a yarn I know, and if I am knitting bottom up, I don't swatch but I do knit at least six inches of sleeve first, then do my measurements to check fabric etc
Great idea!
I am petite (5’2”) with narrow shoulders. I sew a lot of my clothes and use my garment sewing background when I size and fit a sweater. I find that sweaters (clothes) look better if I get a good fit at the shoulder and neck. I don’t look like a 2 year old wearing her mother’s clothes. So I tend to choose my size based on my upper bust and shoulder width, relying on pattern schematics. I also take my measurements every time I start a new garment. Also when I am shortening the length of a sweater, I often shorten above and below the waist to get a more proportional fit, rather than just at the bottom depending on the sweater design, of course.
Great tips!
That recommendation to do one bigger swatch with three needles sizes is genius. Get it all done in one swatch!
Yes! It was a game changer for me - I don't mind swatching as much now because I know that all the info I need will be in that one swatch and won't have to take time to make another.
I could've used this video years ago lol! That's okay because you confirmed a lot of things I learned from the hard way and there was some new stuff, too. Fantastic information!
This was very helpful
my tip is to put in lifelines before tricky parts so you are not as apprehensive to frog
Yes! Great tip!
Thank you for this great info!
Thank you!
Hi! Where did you go to school? I am very impressed with your knowledge. Do you recommend just using tube for a novice-intermediate knitter. My goal is knitting sweater ty
I took the Master Hand Knitting course through The Knitting Guild Association. But you don't need to go through that to knit sweaters! Reading articles, books, and watching videos will help tremendously.
@@NerdyKnittingfinding an easy to follow pattern is a must too……maybe something like Flax by Tin Can Knits.
helpful as always 😊
I constantly make adjustments to patterns when I knit sweaters because I am small, but have broad shoulders.
I'm learning with each sweater . Taking notes , you are so helpful . ❤️
I have your videos on a repeat play list :D
My sweaters show my progress , each one coming slightly closer . :)
Last one before current one on needles , I put on sweater and thought . we are FINALLY good , shoulders and upper chest is good, was expecting more ease in full bust area but at least not too tight just seems to be only 1-2 inches of positive ease around the full bust , hugs bust without flattening , so I THOUGHT I was there ........haha
THEN .....I move arm to side to reach for something or lord forbid raise my arms ......garment does not fall back into place, 😮 it forms a w i d e U bunched up at upper bust like it is some sort of shelf up there lol It clearly needs to be tugged back down, fabric wants to stay above bust 😮 Bummer, I hate fussing with clothes when I wear them .
Problem to solve why fabric does not fall back down in place do I need more than 2 inches of positive ease so it just drops back down ? I must work this out . :)
I have been searching the web on my quest to see if some wonderful person willingly put up a photo of their garment, or mentions the same thing I am seeing ,with fabric gathering above full bust , and how they corrected it. I will get there eventually
Currently on the needles and next attempt has 4 extra stitches added at underarm when I cast on for sleeve separation , removed extra stitches for the sleeves, don't need them too baggy , although pattern does have full sleeves right down to the cuff. Body stitches can be removed for waist shaping .
My journey continues
It could be that you need more fabric length along the bust (which you can add with a short row bust dart).
@@NerdyKnitting OH yes , in my case I do agree . I have watched NINE Bust shaping hacks , and shorts rows are needed on my sweaters
Upper bust and Full Bust are 6" different . I'm a short chubby narrow shoulders , short waisted sort, Adding additional fabric but not in length at the sides does help since I don't have a lot space between bust and waist.
For now Yoke sweaters have set me back to beginner level , something about this construction . I am working on another now .
I could be stubborn and just refuse to make yoke sweaters but am a mystery lover at heart .
"Miss Marple" 😁
I never understand whether the pattern measurement includes the ease or not. For example, if your bust is 34, do I pick the size with 38 bust if I want 4" positive ease?
The pattern will have finished garment measurements (the 38" in your example) - that tells you exactly how large the actual garment is. The pattern may also have corresponding body size measurements or tell you to choose the size that gives you the desired amount of ease. You can decide if you want to use the recommended size or choose a different finished measurement size.
Such helpful advice! My problem with swatching is the extra yarn seems wasteful, especially for knitting in the round and running the yarn in back. I buy nice quality yarn which is expensive, so having to buy a whole extra hank of yarn for swatching seems excessive. I still swatch for fitted items though. Someone suggested ripping it back out after making, blocking, and measuring the swatch and reusing the yarn. Seems like bloomed yarn would look different than before blocking. I may try this though if I save the yarn for a less critical area, or possibly helical stitch it into the sweater. Do you have any experience with reusing swatched yarn?
I reuse the swatch yarn all the time! The only time I don't is if it's stranded colorwork or mohair (which is very sticky and doesn't like to be unraveled).
@@Lnjay13flowers Patty Lyons has a method for swatching ‘in the round’ without running yarn in the back. Mark Vogel demo’d it on his channel recently. I don’t know if it’s been discussed on this channel yet. I watch Nerdy Knitting pretty consistently, but I may have missed an episode or two here and there.
@@NerdyKnitting - great to know! Thank you!
@@bgummeson wow! Thanks! I’ll definitely check it out.
If you swatching the round and don’t want to waste that yarn, after it has been blocked, find a book or piece of lumber or something around your house that is hard and flat. Slip that item into the swatch between the fabric and the back strands (like an arm in a sleeve). You can then measure your gauge properly but you don’t have to cut those back strands and the yarn is still useable if you need that extra little bit. Just remember you need to do a large swatch for this to work - no tiny 4” x 4” swatches. Go big!
I have also not cut the swatch from the ball or skein. I just leave a long tail between the swatch and the skein and wash and block it while attached. Good with plant yarns that can be hard to join mid work.
How do you knit two sleeves at the same time especially if you're supposed to pick up stitches and then knit? Do you knit the sleeves and thengraft them?
And by the way, thank you for your videos! Helpful, honest and great topics!
You could pick up the stitches for each sleeve separately and, once you have everything on separate needles, combine them on one using Magic Loop or Two-Circulars method.
@@NerdyKnittingI would love to see a video on this. (Putting two sleeves on one long circular needle) great idea than you are guaranteed they will be the same size.
Why did you get certified as (I forgot what the title was)Knitter? It sounds cool.
When I want to learn something new, I get a bit obsessive, and I found the Master's program a few months after first learning to knit. That seemed like the most logical way to learn everything that I wanted to know.
@@NerdyKnitting that is a bit obsessive. I wish I had the time to dedicate to something like that.
How do you estimate shoulder measurements in a yoke sweater schematic? I don’t understand why this key information is never given.
Because the way a yoke is knit - it's just one large circle that has to fit the shoulders and the upper torso at the same time.
I realize that the circle starts at the neck and enlarges to encircle the shoulders; then the large circle is divided into body and sleeves at the underarm. But how fast the neck circle enlarges into a yoke affects how the shoulders will lay over the body before the sleeve and body are split. It is this (horizontal?) distance that I have trouble estimating or even measuring. On a set in sleeve sweater it would be the distance from the neckline to shoulder point. Since my shoulders are somewhat broad, I don’t know how to modify to create the correct distance in a yoke pattern. I hope this makes my question clearer.
@@katerogers5365 For broad shoulders - start with the upper torso measurement when choosing your 'bust' size + the amount of ease you want (at least 2" at the upper torso so you can move your shoulders/arms comfortably). As for how fast the yoke increases are done - that's going to change with each pattern/designer so it's harder to give more specific guidelines. But by the time the 'circle' is complete and ready to divide, it has to fit comfortably around the shoulders and bust so you could measure your body near the underarm area - measuring around your shoulders and body - then compare that to the final yoke stitch count before dividing the body and sleeves for the size you're considering to see if the circumference will work for your frame.
Thanks so much for this explanation.
This was so very helpful!
I agree with all recommendations, but TRY IT ON AS YOU KNIT. Try it on OFTEN to judge the fit. Yes, it can be annoying, but you will spot mistakes and POOR FIT before you knit for hours only to frog it. 👍🧶🇨🇦
Wouldn’t this only work for knitting in the round, or no? I just started learning to knit two weeks ago so I don’t know 😅 still learning all sorts of terminology and stuff