Spinner here. We use cards for woolen prep or combs for worsted prep. We can’t comb wool using cards. Combing produces prep with all the short fibers removed and all the remaining fibers aligned. Cards distribute different length fibers without alignment. We can mix and match fiber preparation with spinning technique to produce semi woolen or semi worsted yarns. To get true woolen you would use a carded prep and a long draw. To get a true worsted you would use a combed top and a short draft. Yards per pound is called grist. You can use it for comparing two yarns of the same fiber or fiber family, but not two yarns of different fibers. So you wouldn’t compare cotton and wool yarn using grist but you could compare merino and corriedale yarn that way.
Yes, part of the Master Spinners' program. Woolen prep is carded where the fibers crisscross to trap air(like a brush). Worsted prep is combing the fibers parallel and compressed together(actual combs). If all the neps/noils and short bits will be removed leaving you will a spinning fiber called top which usually the 'top' 3% of the fiber(result of multiple passes through the wool combs). There is a lot of wastage fiber with combing. This is why good worsted yarn is much more expensive. The finished worsted garment will have minimal or no pilling because there are little to no small bits to work their way to the surface of the yarn. Woolen preparation traps all the short and broken bits of fiber into the batt that will be spun. It is light, airy, and relatively cheap because of little fiber wastage. In addition to fiber preparation, there are both woolen and worsted methods of draft out the fiber and spinning the fiber that will enhance the characteristics of either woolen or worsted yarn. A garment that is made with purely worsted yarn that requires many steps will last 200 years with use and proper care. A woolen garment with good woolen yarn will last with careful use and proper care for 25+ years.
PLEASE make a video like this about substituting “2 different yarns held Together” to a single yarn! AND how to accurately estimate yardage 🙏🏽 I’m so tired of all the current patterns that require me to purchase 2 sweater quantities of yarn for every project🤔 thank you
Me, too! It's so annoying...this trend. I often skip patterns for this reason alone. It simply adds to cost, production, time, etc. Sometimes, it is worth it, but not often - for me.
I LOVE the yarnsub website - not least because it goes through all the best subs based on multiple criteria. I told my sister - newish knitter - about it and she RAVES about it. The website ensures that I can find options for discontinued or unavailable yarns for projects, or at least know what to look for. I often find that if I go with a similar type of yarn from the same brand for a project then there’s a good chance it will work - that’s what my mom told me 😂
I really appreciate how detailed this information is. As a beginner I find there is so much to learn before investing time and money into a project I will enjoy knitting and wearing. I love just visiting this channel and learning so much from someone so knowledgeable and comfortable to listen to ❤❤❤
Thanks for mentioning the smoke detector alarm. I hear that in TV shows sometimes and, since they're such a long pause between beeps, I always end up rewinding and playing it again a few times to make sure it was the TV and not my OWN alarm crying for a new battery.
Yep i have a whole sweater i never touch. I choose a budget acrylic for a crochet sweater designed for top quality woolen spun wool. The designers sweater is cozy light and trendy. Mine is heavy and looks like a 70s afghan with sleeves despite many years of crocheting and garment making. Oops. I might put it on a scarecrow and plant it in the garden
As a new knitter I found this information so important. The yarn shop I went to had no desire to give me any of this type of information about the yarns, nor how to use each. ( This was a large shop that does mainly mail order all over the world) Learning about how Mulberry silk is created was most important to me. I WILL NEVER USE IT BECAUSE OF HOW IT IS MADE.
Totally agree!!! Lifelong devotee of silk here but now that I know I will only use plant based and vegan silk that allows the little creatures we owe so much to to complete their life cycle and leave their cocoons before they’re unwound and processed for manufacturing ❤❤❤
This was a great topic to cover, thank you for doing it. I usually check Ravelry projects before I start a project. I like to see what yarns people chose (if not the recommended yarn used in the pattern/sample) and get an idea from them what works. It has helped enormously: no misses in my yarn sub choices since I've been doing this!
Yarn Canada shut down 😢 (they’re becoming an Ashford weaving dealer), which makes finding yarns here so much harder and/or so much more expensive (that US to Canada shipping is so expensive sometimes)! I found out when I went to find yarn for my current project. And with Michael’s moving towards only carrying Loops & Threads, I turned to my LYS, which didn’t have the same kind of variety of selection as Yarn Canada did (it is an impressive collection, but obviously geared more towards what is popularly used in my city, rather than a super diverse selection). I made a substitution for my current yarn based on what my LYS had in the same weight, similar enough fibre content to the two recommended yarns (one is no longer available, the other has been reworked and re-released since the pattern was released, and both are surprisingly difficult to find information on) and what I wanted out of the garment, so my choices were pretty limited. Thankfully, it seems to be a good enough match to work!
This was very informative and helpful! I like your way of presenting information. I crochet any moment I can and I love the whole proces of picking a pattern and searching for the right yarn. I can't wait to apply this new knowledge :)
Also have to consider if the yarn construction and fiber is masking a lighter weight yarn. The shawl in a ball is a good example it’s so thick n thin that it’s really a 3 weight when working up with spots that are almost lace weight and spots that are almost bulky. Yarns like that tend to only be for certain types of projects like shawls and accessories because the yarn style doesn’t lend well to garments.
Very useful info. I lucked out on my first knit sweater - subbed cotton for wool. Luckily for me, it was seamed. It was simple stockinette so my gauge swatched matched. FYI Yarn Canada is switching to a spinning and weaving supply company. 😔
Negatives aside, baby alpaca is supposedly a good alternative to mohair. (Fyberspates Cumulus is heavenly.) But like the Texan person, I also live in a warm climate, so the fuzzy halo trend is a no- go, which breaks my heart. It is so pretty!
Thank you so much for the link to the Craft Yarn Council chart! I have been going crazy looking through old books trying to figure out what different yarns are talking about.
Haha - thank you! I was so embarrassed when I was editing but didn't have time to re-record the whole thing. Hopefully, the fire alarm beeps weren't too distracting! 😁
Working on my second sweater, made and washed three swatches to get gauge and I'm so excited to block the final garmet. Working with a worsted spun single (lambs pride worsted) and its so fun to work with. Very strong with a bit of mohair
I love this video! Thank you so much! Also, did you make the sweater you’re wearing in this video? If so, I’d love to know the pattern name and where to purchase it. Thank you! ❤
Great show. Except I am a spinner. To make worsted wool you use a comb not a carder to align the fibers perfectly straight. You also spin it worsted way. Carded wool use a carder and you pull from the batt.
In general, cotton is a fairly heavy yarn so the sweater is going to way more (and a cabled sweater already uses a lot of extra yarn for the cables). It's also not very elastic and can have a tendency to keep growing instead of holding its shape. Not a good combination for a cabled sweater!
I find that cashmere doesn’t cause any reaction and a blend of cashmere and other fibers that don’t include wool also works well. Even a small percentage of a synthetic helps but if you don’t want anything plastic the bio synthetics such as rayon mixed in with the cashmere or cotton is good.
Not a TH-camr, but I am similarly allergic. I have found that if I regularly go to the same LYS and mention my allergy, over the years they get more yarn varieties that work for me 😅🎉. I have trouble with all animal fiber aside from silk. Sometimes I can knit or crochet with an animal fiber as long as I wash my hands before touching my face, but often just touching the skein is enough to make my hand tingle.
Oh my goodness, you have so much information but, you talk so fast that my brain cannot comprehend all that you are saying. Do you only have a certain amount of time that your video can last? If so, I can understand. If not I need to slow you down a little bit😂😂😂
Sorry!🤣 I know I talk fast - I try to fit everything within an hour or less and sometimes there's just so much information to share! Thankfully, TH-cam has a setting for playback speed so you can slow me down.
Spinner here.
We use cards for woolen prep or combs for worsted prep. We can’t comb wool using cards. Combing produces prep with all the short fibers removed and all the remaining fibers aligned. Cards distribute different length fibers without alignment.
We can mix and match fiber preparation with spinning technique to produce semi woolen or semi worsted yarns. To get true woolen you would use a carded prep and a long draw. To get a true worsted you would use a combed top and a short draft.
Yards per pound is called grist. You can use it for comparing two yarns of the same fiber or fiber family, but not two yarns of different fibers. So you wouldn’t compare cotton and wool yarn using grist but you could compare merino and corriedale yarn that way.
Well explained. You beat me to it. Also, in spinning woolen fibers are not pulled out then spun.
Thank you for sharing this! I knew I got that bit confused (I keep mixing up the combing amd carding).
Yes, part of the Master Spinners' program. Woolen prep is carded where the fibers crisscross to trap air(like a brush). Worsted prep is combing the fibers parallel and compressed together(actual combs). If all the neps/noils and short bits will be removed leaving you will a spinning fiber called top which usually the 'top' 3% of the fiber(result of multiple passes through the wool combs). There is a lot of wastage fiber with combing. This is why good worsted yarn is much more expensive. The finished worsted garment will have minimal or no pilling because there are little to no small bits to work their way to the surface of the yarn. Woolen preparation traps all the short and broken bits of fiber into the batt that will be spun. It is light, airy, and relatively cheap because of little fiber wastage. In addition to fiber preparation, there are both woolen and worsted methods of draft out the fiber and spinning the fiber that will enhance the characteristics of either woolen or worsted yarn. A garment that is made with purely worsted yarn that requires many steps will last 200 years with use and proper care. A woolen garment with good woolen yarn will last with careful use and proper care for 25+ years.
Currently frogging a 99% complete sweater because of a poor yarn sub choice (and a bad pattern choice). This sh** is serious people
Been there.
PLEASE make a video like this about substituting “2 different yarns held Together” to a single yarn! AND how to accurately estimate yardage 🙏🏽 I’m so tired of all the current patterns that require me to purchase 2 sweater quantities of yarn for every project🤔 thank you
Me, too! It's so annoying...this trend. I often skip patterns for this reason alone. It simply adds to cost, production, time, etc. Sometimes, it is worth it, but not often - for me.
OMG! This is the most useful video on knitting yarn I've seen by now
Glad it was helpful!
I LOVE the yarnsub website - not least because it goes through all the best subs based on multiple criteria. I told my sister - newish knitter - about it and she RAVES about it. The website ensures that I can find options for discontinued or unavailable yarns for projects, or at least know what to look for. I often find that if I go with a similar type of yarn from the same brand for a project then there’s a good chance it will work - that’s what my mom told me 😂
Yes! Yarn Sub is a great website - I use it all the time!
I also use it incessantly. If retro yarns are in there, its super helpful.
Could you give me the website?
@ google yarnsub and it will come up
The yards per gram computation is very helpful! Thank you ❤
I really appreciate how detailed this information is. As a beginner I find there is so much to learn before investing time and money into a project I will enjoy knitting and wearing. I love just visiting this channel and learning so much from someone so knowledgeable and comfortable to listen to ❤❤❤
You're very welcome! I'm glad you find it helpful!
Thanks for mentioning the smoke detector alarm. I hear that in TV shows sometimes and, since they're such a long pause between beeps, I always end up rewinding and playing it again a few times to make sure it was the TV and not my OWN alarm crying for a new battery.
Yep i have a whole sweater i never touch. I choose a budget acrylic for a crochet sweater designed for top quality woolen spun wool. The designers sweater is cozy light and trendy. Mine is heavy and looks like a 70s afghan with sleeves despite many years of crocheting and garment making. Oops. I might put it on a scarecrow and plant it in the garden
Such a tough lesson to learn! ❤️
As a new knitter I found this information so important. The yarn shop I went to had no desire to give me any of this type of information about the yarns, nor how to use each. ( This was a large shop that does mainly mail order all over the world) Learning about how Mulberry silk is created was most important to me. I WILL NEVER USE IT BECAUSE OF HOW IT IS MADE.
Totally agree!!! Lifelong devotee of silk here but now that I know I will only use plant based and vegan silk that allows the little creatures we owe so much to to complete their life cycle and leave their cocoons before they’re unwound and processed for manufacturing ❤❤❤
This was a great topic to cover, thank you for doing it.
I usually check Ravelry projects before I start a project. I like to see what yarns people chose (if not the recommended yarn used in the pattern/sample) and get an idea from them what works. It has helped enormously: no misses in my yarn sub choices since I've been doing this!
That's a great idea!
Yarn Canada shut down 😢 (they’re becoming an Ashford weaving dealer), which makes finding yarns here so much harder and/or so much more expensive (that US to Canada shipping is so expensive sometimes)! I found out when I went to find yarn for my current project. And with Michael’s moving towards only carrying Loops & Threads, I turned to my LYS, which didn’t have the same kind of variety of selection as Yarn Canada did (it is an impressive collection, but obviously geared more towards what is popularly used in my city, rather than a super diverse selection).
I made a substitution for my current yarn based on what my LYS had in the same weight, similar enough fibre content to the two recommended yarns (one is no longer available, the other has been reworked and re-released since the pattern was released, and both are surprisingly difficult to find information on) and what I wanted out of the garment, so my choices were pretty limited. Thankfully, it seems to be a good enough match to work!
I had no idea about Yarn Canada shutting down! That's sad news for us. 😢
Such great information. Knitting is a science plus art.
It really is! Glad you found it helpful!
This was very informative and helpful! I like your way of presenting information. I crochet any moment I can and I love the whole proces of picking a pattern and searching for the right yarn. I can't wait to apply this new knowledge :)
Thank you! I'm glad you found it helpful.
I haven't knit a cable hat yet but it's in the list. On my needles right now are socks with some cable knitting. First time trying cables.
This video was super helpful! Ty so much! You really explain things in a way that's easy to understand.
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful.
This is so helpful. I am sure I am going to watch this more than once. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Also have to consider if the yarn construction and fiber is masking a lighter weight yarn.
The shawl in a ball is a good example it’s so thick n thin that it’s really a 3 weight when working up with spots that are almost lace weight and spots that are almost bulky. Yarns like that tend to only be for certain types of projects like shawls and accessories because the yarn style doesn’t lend well to garments.
Very true!
Very useful info. I lucked out on my first knit sweater - subbed cotton for wool. Luckily for me, it was seamed. It was simple stockinette so my gauge swatched matched.
FYI Yarn Canada is switching to a spinning and weaving supply company. 😔
Excellent topic. Thank u for covering a very basic but super important topic
My pleasure!
Negatives aside, baby alpaca is supposedly a good alternative to mohair. (Fyberspates Cumulus is heavenly.) But like the Texan person, I also live in a warm climate, so the fuzzy halo trend is a no- go, which breaks my heart. It is so pretty!
Thank you so much for the link to the Craft Yarn Council chart! I have been going crazy looking through old books trying to figure out what different yarns are talking about.
You are so welcome! I use it all the time too.
You’re so cute with your chocolate game idea! ❤
Haha - thank you! I was so embarrassed when I was editing but didn't have time to re-record the whole thing. Hopefully, the fire alarm beeps weren't too distracting! 😁
Working on my second sweater, made and washed three swatches to get gauge and I'm so excited to block the final garmet. Working with a worsted spun single (lambs pride worsted) and its so fun to work with. Very strong with a bit of mohair
Sounds lovely!
Excellent information presented clearly. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing this great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Great info. At some point during your episode planning, could you go I to how to clean and care for our knitting needles. Mine tend to become sticky
I'm not sure there would be enough to say to fill an episode! I just usually wipe them down with a damp cloth when I feel like they need it.
thank you :))
I love this video! Thank you so much! Also, did you make the sweater you’re wearing in this video? If so, I’d love to know the pattern name and where to purchase it. Thank you! ❤
I'm wearing the Westbound by Elizabeth Doherty (www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/westbound) using Knit Picks CotLin [color: Indigo Bunting].
Merci
Great show. Except I am a spinner. To make worsted wool you use a comb not a carder to align the fibers perfectly straight. You also spin it worsted way. Carded wool use a carder and you pull from the batt.
You can tell I'm not a spinner - I always get carding and combing confused!
Why would you not want to use cotton for a cabled sweater?
In general, cotton is a fairly heavy yarn so the sweater is going to way more (and a cabled sweater already uses a lot of extra yarn for the cables). It's also not very elastic and can have a tendency to keep growing instead of holding its shape. Not a good combination for a cabled sweater!
Thank you
I'm allergic to wool. Do you know of a TH-cam who does not knit with wool?
Sorry, I don't!
@@NerdyKnitting Thank you for your time😊
I find that cashmere doesn’t cause any reaction and a blend of cashmere and other fibers that don’t include wool also works well. Even a small percentage of a synthetic helps but if you don’t want anything plastic the bio synthetics such as rayon mixed in with the cashmere or cotton is good.
Not a TH-camr, but I am similarly allergic. I have found that if I regularly go to the same LYS and mention my allergy, over the years they get more yarn varieties that work for me 😅🎉.
I have trouble with all animal fiber aside from silk. Sometimes I can knit or crochet with an animal fiber as long as I wash my hands before touching my face, but often just touching the skein is enough to make my hand tingle.
Is there something wrong with the sound. Your voice is very high.
I had trouble with my usual microphone so had to use the built-in one on the camera - maybe that's it?
Oh my goodness, you have so much information but, you talk so fast that my brain cannot comprehend all that you are saying. Do you only have a certain amount of time that your video can last? If so, I can understand. If not I need to slow you down a little bit😂😂😂
Sorry!🤣 I know I talk fast - I try to fit everything within an hour or less and sometimes there's just so much information to share! Thankfully, TH-cam has a setting for playback speed so you can slow me down.
@@NerdyKnitting I don't think this is an issue for the majority. And I'm from the state of the long southern drawwwwl....Texas.