Rebuilding the drive-line, replacing the rear axles as well as a few other odds and ends on My 1969 Cub Cadet model 126. Facebook Fan Page / tractorhead04
Good video - I purchased a 1972 cub cadet 126 a few months ago. I have mowed a small yard 3 or 4 times. the second time I mowed I stepped on the clutch/brake pedal and the brakes wouldn't do anything and the clutch wouldn't engage to changes gears - I had to turn the tractor off with the key - but When I started back up everything was fine and working as it should. Now just today when I was finishing mowing I clutched to switch from 1st to Reverse and the tractor wouldn't move I tried 1st again and still no movement I tried 2nd and 3rd and the tractor would very slowly move inches - I had a friend push me and after a little pushing the tractor moves again, but each gear seems a little slower and now engine seems to run a little rougher --- Any thoughts ? thanks for your help
@@tractorhead04 bummer. I watched the video and was hoping you might have a closer shot of the # on the rear housing or maybe a still picture. The last four digits is all I want. Thank you again for the reply.
Nice work! What is your opinion of the brake set up? Do you like the internal brake setup like in the 100 better or the external setup in the later tractors? I never understood why cub cadet changed it. Also what kind of gear oil do you recommend in the transmission?
I personally prefer the internal brakes. The external ones just don't seem to work quite as well I feel. Cub Calls for either 30w oil or Hy-tran in a gear drive or Hy-tran only in a hydro.
Interesting, I haven't noticed much steering slop in my 127 and the brakes I have got working real good on mine. All I have left to fix is the generator needs bearings, mower deck needs bearings, and engine needs rings that's pretty much all that's left
Also that's where John Deere garden tractors hold up better than Cub Cadets. You very rarely have driveshaft issues with the John Deere's (hydrostatic models) and the John Deere's front axle and splindles hold up pretty well over time but they wear out ball joints on the tie rods. Seems like IH's use of roll pins to transfer power to and from the driveshaft might not have been their best idea, as well as using roll pins to hold the steering arm to the front spindle. It just focuses a lot of force to a very small area and that's why they wear out
Really cool just like mine
Cool
Good video - I purchased a 1972 cub cadet 126 a few months ago. I have mowed a small yard 3 or 4 times. the second time I mowed I stepped on the clutch/brake pedal and the brakes wouldn't do anything and the clutch wouldn't engage to changes gears - I had to turn the tractor off with the key - but When I started back up everything was fine and working as it should. Now just today when I was finishing mowing I clutched to switch from 1st to Reverse and the tractor wouldn't move I tried 1st again and still no movement I tried 2nd and 3rd and the tractor would very slowly move inches - I had a friend push me and after a little pushing the tractor moves again, but each gear seems a little slower and now engine seems to run a little rougher --- Any thoughts ? thanks for your help
I realize this video is years old, but I'd like to know what the serial number is on this 1969 126, please. Thank you
Oh Geez, I am not sure, I haven't owned the tractor for a few years. If I remember right it was a December built tractor though.
@@tractorhead04 bummer. I watched the video and was hoping you might have a closer shot of the # on the rear housing or maybe a still picture. The last four digits is all I want. Thank you again for the reply.
Nice work! What is your opinion of the brake set up? Do you like the internal brake setup like in the 100 better or the external setup in the later tractors? I never understood why cub cadet changed it. Also what kind of gear oil do you recommend in the transmission?
I personally prefer the internal brakes. The external ones just don't seem to work quite as well I feel. Cub Calls for either 30w oil or Hy-tran in a gear drive or Hy-tran only in a hydro.
Interesting, I haven't noticed much steering slop in my 127 and the brakes I have got working real good on mine. All I have left to fix is the generator needs bearings, mower deck needs bearings, and engine needs rings that's pretty much all that's left
love the vid
Thanks for checking it out.
Where do I go to find late 70 early 80 1650 parts
Depends on what you are looking for. There are a couple websites like cub cadet specialties and Ih cub cadet warehouse online that deal parts.
tractorhead04 looking for electric pto
Also that's where John Deere garden tractors hold up better than Cub Cadets. You very rarely have driveshaft issues with the John Deere's (hydrostatic models) and the John Deere's front axle and splindles hold up pretty well over time but they wear out ball joints on the tie rods. Seems like IH's use of roll pins to transfer power to and from the driveshaft might not have been their best idea, as well as using roll pins to hold the steering arm to the front spindle. It just focuses a lot of force to a very small area and that's why they wear out
Yea I do agree there. The Cub hydros the only driveshaft part to usually wear out is the coupler at the engine.
only a 1969? it just came off the production line... Middle of February? jesus
yea it was built December of 1969. I was waiting on some parts to get in plus wanted to post the mall race car show videos before I posted this one.
so I'll bring grumpy, we fix it up then I haul tractor home? :D