Ive watched Dozens of videos trying to get my NPN sensor to work on my Anet A8. With this video i was able to get it working in moments. EXCELLENT VID CHRIS.
if you own a NPN NC/ NO sensor you can wire your Z endstop as normal in parallel with the sensor. When the Z endstop is triggered it will close or open the circuit to ground/ possitive and cause a trigger which is the same trigger in the code for the NPN sensor. Just be sure to wire the micro switch in the same NO or NC position to match your sensor and splice it into the wires going into your Z endstop on the mainboard.
Thanks for the best instructions on getting basic settings changed. Your channel is my first stop if i look to change any firmware settings or add any features to my printer.
Oeh I so subscribed to your channel. After that 2x calculation I had wrong for the skewing correction... now that one sentence of “if it’s not a negative value, move it closer” also adds an AHA! moment. Never read about that, just about the 2mm or so offset. Love how you’re not stopping there but actually measure it!
Thank you! I had a problem with the X skew and I would never thought about what you explained in the end... at that time I’ve uninstalled the auto level because of that. Now I can put it back again!
I've searched a ton for these very information. Thanks man, this helped me a lot. The only resource I needed for bed leveling and mechanical switch probe.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for this video. It helped me massively when setting up my CR-10S with an ABL and TMC2208’s. Your videos have been so helpful in upgrading all my printers and I wanted to say how grateful I am for your work. All the best dude. Please keep them coming 😊👍🏽
I have a question I’m hoping you can PLEASE answer, because I trawled google and asked everywhere in the Facebook groups: I have a CR-10S with a PrintBite sheet on the aluminum bed, using an inductive sensor I set up with this video; my problem is the probe isn’t giving consistent measurements all over the bed. In one place it’s too close and gives nearly clear lines, another (mainly the back) it squishes more and gives a thicker first layer and nearer the front it’s about right. The only consistent thing is every time I probe the bed, it does exactly the same thing in each of those areas with regards to how the layer goes down. The bed is fixed (no springs), the bed heater is off and I’ve tried over and over setting up the probe sensitivity. The only way I can overcome it is to use M421 and manually adjust the mesh points myself. What could it be please? Bad sensor maybe? A list of check points would be really handy. I appreciate how busy you must be, but I’m literally at my wits end and considering going back to manual mesh leveling. Thank you 🙏
@@neiljclements Hey, sure, happy to help. Let start here. Connect to the printer with Pronterface and run a g28 then a g29. When it is done it will spit out a map of the bed. What does that look like? Get pronterface here if you need it. www.pronterface.com/
WOW!!!! THANK YOU!!!! You made it looked so simple! I didn't know that i need to define number of servos so i wasnt able to compile, was stuck to it (and thinking the right choice was linear leeveling) for about 2 weeks now!
Chris, Thank You for this video. I'm new to 3d printing and was really having a difficult time setting up my inductive probe. Nice video and great work!
Thanks for a great video! Although the offset did not work for me. After searching around I found M851 shows current offset which stayed at 0 for some odd reason (my code is correct, running Marlin 1.1.8). The EEPROM has that value set on my Anet A6. Did M501 (to load EEPROM) M851 Z-0.56 (to set my offset) and did M500 (to save to EEPROM). That did the trick. Thanks again!
thanks for your efforts creating this. It was a great help. I don't seem to have the boundary settings in Marlin 2.xx. It does work correctly at the nine firmware calculated points though. I would warn people about a mistake I made. I was testing the Z proximity at various points. Then made the mistake of moving near to the Y limit and then asking it to home Z! My proximity sensor is 51mm behind the heads so had no bed to detect. Thanks again
Yes. Thanks and well done. This is the most informative youtube vid i've bumped into regarding auto bed levelling and I've had to look believe me. Anyway. A big thanks. You got me through it all.
Chris. Thanks for NOT suggesting the "Whiney Guy" probe. Inductive is the way to go. In my experience, you can go down to your local Sheet metal shop and get a galvanized metal plate in 24-20ga. thickness. It needs to be cut on a large sheer to insure flatness. The zinc coating works better than anything I've tried if you use hairspray or magigoo. The second most important use of the metal sheet is it fastens down with 4 rare earth magnets from the underside of the heater and you can do away with the clips. By The Way GREAT UNBIASED VIDEOS. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
Ha ha ha! Thanks for the comment! That's good info to have. I have a metal cut to length place close to me, I need to head over there and take a look around. Have a good one!
maybe need to go into detail about the opitions and probables, please do a ender 5 type with inductive fixed probe .. a little daunting first time going through the settins as i am using the Z max endstop pin, will be apreciated thanks
You have some of the best videos on TH-cam for 3D printing. That being said could you do one on Unified bed leveling with the new 1.1.9 version and how to do it with probe? Thanks Keep up the good work !!!!!
@@ChrisRiley nope just leaving a link for those who come back to the video and like to jump to the marlin configuration part of the inductive sensor install / upgrade. great video BTW, 👍 super helpful
Hi Chris, have you heard of the Precision Piezo sensor that utilizes a sensor that detects vibration on the hot-end itself? I'm wondering if you have an opinion on this compared to the BLTouch for any-material probing.
I have heard of that and I have tried to get one. Seems like everytime I look they are sold out. As far as accuracy, I think they would both achieve the same results. The Piezo however would be really handy because you would be leveling right at the nozzle. That would work great on deltas.
Why you didn't change the Z offset using eprom instead of reuploading at every change? Also, which version of marlin shows the map result for G29 at 10:29? I am using 1.1-bugfix and it don't. It is a BILINEAR thing perhaps? I'm using 3POINT
@@ChrisRiley Yes, I tried and can confirm it is a bilinear thing :-) Now I get 0 +0.705 +0.439 +0.182 1 +0.305 +0.158 -0.245 2 -0.109 -0.250 -0.535 If I understand correctly, the 0,0 point is about 0,8mm (.705+.109) higher than 200,0 point, is that correct?
mint video as usual chris im just about finished my printer and was going to use bltouch but because i have a 13x13" bed il try this one and thqat about finishes my build
Hi. Great Video. Helped me a lot but I am still struggling with the distance between the nozzle and the bed. I am always 0.3mm too high. Defining the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER doesn´t change anything for me. If it is set to 0 or 10 the distance between nozzle and bed when I home the nozzle is always 0.3mm. So when I start printing it prints in the air. I hope you can help me out.
You're probably getting hung up from eeprom. Do a M502 then M500 and that should pull in your offset. You can use M851 Z to adjust it manually. Use M503 to see what it is set at.
Thanks for the video. Here,I have a problem about auto bed leveling.I suppose that my heat bed was flat, but it was slant after assemble, there would be about 15 degree between heat bed and X-axis and it was parallel to Y-axis，when I use auto bed leveling during printing，would it affect the size in x direction and y direction？ Or there is X and Y offset to ensure the adjusting accuracy？
Great video! Got ABL working and have had some nice prints, but one thing is kind of odd to me: When I'm doing prints on pronterface I don't notice the z-axis height changing as it goes around the bed, shouldn't I see this value fluctuate by a couple hundredths if my bed is about that far out of alignment in any given spots? I thought maybe the value just doesn't update but I also don't see my z stepper motors moving as it prints across different parts of the bed. I've got G29 enabled on my starting g-code, is there something else I'm missing? If I'm not seeing change in the z-axis as it goes across a given layer, what actual bed leveling is taking place?
Yes, you should see the Z adjust the height up to a certain point it will stop if fade height is set, but it should be doing it on the first 10mm or so. Unless your bed is super level.
Hi Chris, very good video. I use an AM8 with a capacitive sensor. I've done everything according to your description. But my nozzle always stays to high above the bed after homing. Even if i adjusted the Z-offset in the firmware and deactivated the soft endstops. Do you have any hint, what may be wrong?
Hey Michael, Is there anything in the M851 field on the M503 output? If might be eeprom causing you issues. I would do a M502 and M500 just to be safe and make sure you are pulling the right values.
I’ve been following all the procedure step by step until 7:35 ... with “m119” input, my pc still shows “z-stop open”, even if sensor’s led is switched on ... how is it possible? Any suggestions?
Hi, Thank so much for this video with a good information. I have a SKR mini E3 board on my Ender. Can i connect my capacitive sensor on PC14 (Probe) ? I use optoisolator for protect my board because i use 24V on the probe. It is the same firmware modification like BLTouch. Thank for help.
Great Video! This helped get me alot further. So, thanks for that. But I still wasn't successful:( When Auto-Homing, it stops at the offset (My offset value, instead of 0). So my nozzle is still my offset value, away from my bed. Marlin recognizes that it's not at 0. I can manually step it down to zero, it just won't automatically zero itself. Any ideas?
So it should stop at your negative offset. The offset will be in the negative to compensate for the probe distance below the nozzle. Hopefully I am understanding you correctly.
@@ChrisRiley I was under the impression that it would zero itself when homing, but it would stop at the offset. I had yet to run a print through, but once I did, it ran perfect. So thanks again for this video!
It's so so, its not as dependable as the MK2. If the print quality on the MK2 was a 10, the log would be about a 7. I think if it had a real E3D hot end, a nicer main board and some nicer linear bearings It would probably work much better. Then if I could get a hold of an MK42 bed, then we might get close to the real thing.
I used this to setup a probe on one of my printers, and I got it to work great. Thanks for that. However, the nut on the probe got shaken loose and I had to re-tighten it (as well as set my new z-offset). No matter what Z-offset I define in Marlin, I have to raise the printhead .3mm to get it to be mechanically at zero. Adding or subtracting 0.3 doesn't change anything. Can you think of a solution off the top of your head?
My first thought is maybe you have something in eeprom that is messing you up. If there is a Z851 command listed that is probably affecting it. I would run M502 them M500 and try again first before I did anything else.
@@ChrisRiley Gotcha. The procedure has been disconnect from pronterface > change Z0 in firmware > upload > home + bed level + jog to mechanical zero. It worked when I did it the first couple of times, dunno why it isn't working now but I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
great tutorial. i followed this and this worked like a charm! One question to you is if i change the filament from PLA to ABS or vice-versa each time i need to upload the new offset as the offsets are different due to very different temp setting of bed. Do you have any ideas on how this can be overcome?
Thanks for watching, glad you found it helpful. Prusa is currently developing a temp calculator in the firmware to try to combat this type of issue. I have tested it with little success so far. The best thing I have found for this is babystepping. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/0pt_b2ZizQM/w-d-xo.htmlm21s This will let you adjust the offset on the fly. Not a great fix, but it works for me.
@@ChrisRiley Malyan M150. In fact, I can change bed entirely and get back to working very quickly by using a semi automanualmatic method. What I do is set up a print that has nozzle temp set to 0 and make sure there's no plastic stuck to the bottom. Heat the nozzle to normal temperature. Find Z with G28 and leave the nozzle where it is. Then get the piece of paper out and manually nudge Z down by 0.1 increments and sum up the offset to the point where the paper under the nozzle is grabbed as per a normal level process. Take that value and add it to the existing Z offset via the front panel and save. Next, start my fake print with the hot end set at 0 degrees and as soon as it starts layer 1, pause the print and just check that the paper slides under the nozzle. Because the hot end is off, there's less expansion and the paper has a bit more gap. This step is really just me checking that all is as intended. Then start a proper print and depending on filament type, I find that within a couple of attempts, I just have to nudge the z offset 0.1 a couple of times or even 0.05 and I'm dialed in for that filament type. E.g. changing ABS fit different ABS requires no change but swap to PLA might need a couple of offset nudges to tune. Other than that, very straightforward. It sounds more effort than it is. Takes me 5 mins max.
Chris you did a perfect job explaining how to and why and what censors to use. i have been trying to auto level my bed forever. had no problem when i used skynet 3d. Used to have to G92 Z10 and all the stuff but with Marlin i was having trouble because i could not change the z axes to get a negative number. Thanks to your video i know know i had to comment out// define MIN_ SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS Still have not gotten my LCD 2004 screen, red with 5 buttons to work wright on my Anet A8. Even when i used skynet they would not work, center button and up and down but not right and left, do not know what i am doing wrong but the bed leveling i have gotten that part going good thanks to you Chris.
Hey Chris, excellent video. Im not very good at Marling and you managed to explain everything clearly. I have a Core-XY machine and... I have an issue. When I run G28, my printer moves its axis to home but my hotend and probe are lightly off the bed so when it tries homing on Z it tries to push beyond the homing point because when fully homed, the hotend is outside of the bed. If I try moving the hotend over the bed it tells my I must Home X, Y, and Z first. Repeating the problem previously mentioned. Any advise?
Hey Chris! I finally got home and Tried what you said, however: When I do G28, it Homes X, Y, then the head moves about 30 mm in X and Y then start homing the Z, And even tho the Probe does Trigger (LED lights up), the printer Continues Raise the bed even further! the print head crashes into the bed but keeps going! Any Ideas?
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris! Just tried. it. This time Both being on true(they were on false) Now the probe does not even light up at all. Same crashing into bed problem.
Hi Chris, Im going to install a BLtouch, i have Marlin 1.1.8 installed from the factory on my printer, if im going to make the changes you say in the video, do i need to download the firmware i have in the printer in order to get all the settings right? Or can I just make the changes and update the ones that are in the printer??? or might something stop working if I do that?, I have a printer with 3 in 1 out extruders, Can i make a backup of the firmware someway? or is that not needed?, if I just need to upload a new firmware could I change to 2.0 version at the same time?
If you flash your firmware, you will lose all your custom settings. There is no way to do a backup from the existing firmware on the board. The best you can do is run an M503, record those settings and try to load them into a new version.
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Can you show me how to connect on ramp14 board??im vietnamese so i can not understand all of you said , i saw your project is really good, thank you
You have to use the Arduino IDE and you can only write, you can't read. So you need a copy of Marlin (or other firmware) that is configured for your printer or you have to configure it from scratch. Link to IDE www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Link to Marlin: marlinfw.org/ Thanks for watching, sorry there isn't an easier way to edit the config, you might see if your printer manufacture has a copy you can use.
This video is great! Thank you! I'm having an issue tho. I followed the instructions correctly but I cannot set the offset. Somehow after G29, my printers moves up on Z Axis to a random position and therefore everytime I ran M114 to see the offset, I get a different value everytime. Do you have any idea what could be doing this? After a G28, when I do G0 Z0 I get the perfect "layer height" but after G29, the value is just random!
@@ChrisRiley After G29 -> G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F5000 -> M114 shows Z = 0. But, the distance is about 0.60 from the bed. When I change the Nozzle Offset in Marlin and I go again, I still don't get a proper distance. Like if the Offset did not correct the height properly. Now, what I have noticed is that when I do G29 -> M114 right after G29 is done, I get a random Z height value. Sometimes it´s 7.8, other time 12.5 and so on...
@@ChrisRiley Thanks again for taking a minute to help me. So, right now after the G29 is over, I send M114 and get: X:145.00 Y:128.00 Z:11.32. Then G1 X100 Y100 and go down until I get the piece of paper under the nozzle. Then M114 and I get Z:0.72. So, M851 Z0.72 and my M503 looks like: echo: G21 ; Units in mm echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius echo:Filament settings: Disabled echo: M200 D1.75 echo: M200 D0 echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E80.00 echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s): echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z10.00 E25.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z300 E10000 echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T echo: M204 P300.00 R3000.00 T300.00 echo:Advanced: S T B X Z E echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00 echo:Home offset: echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:Auto Bed Leveling: echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 echo:Material heatup parameters: echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0 echo: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 echo: M304 P4000.00 I30.82 D150.00 echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm): echo: M851 Z0.72 Now, I'm going to try once again: G28 -> G29 -> M114 (X45.00 Y:128.00 Z:9.47 - that is the random Z height that I'm talking about). Moving forward I go: G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F5000 -> M114 -> X:100.00 Y:100.00 Z:0.00 but the nozzle is too high. So I go again and move it with the Pronterface until the piece of paper under the nozzle is good... and now I get Z: -1.90 All of this with the unheated bed and nozzle. I hope you can find the mistake or error. Thanks!
First off, Great video! II actually used like 4 videos to get all of this sort of working, but yours was the most complete for the Marlin part. Here is my issue right now. at x home, the sensor is off of the bed, so it just crashes. On the bed it works fine, but since there is no metal under the probe at X-Home it doesn't respond. I've tried various settings in Marlin and can't find the right one to push the x axis over a bit after tripping the end stop. Any help would be wildly appreciated.
The quickest fix for this issue is to set Z safe homing. You can alter bed size, but safe homing is easier. It will home in the center. Give that a try uncomment this line. //#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
thanks Chris. Great video and fast response. I'm sorry, but I'm just not getting things to work right for me. I followed your setting and the video, but something isn't right. The system is always pulling up regardless of what i put in to the z-offset. I put in a -50 value to just test it and it does the same thing. I can do a G28, get the bed home. Then G29 then center and Z0 and it will be .5mm off the bed. I can set the offset to 10 or -0 and the head will still zero to .5mm. This is the frustrating part. As I understand it, the firmware z-offster from extruder should set the absolutet value offset. So I should be able to crash tthe head, but I can't. Any thoughts?
You probably saved my life with this response. Thank you so very much. I'm still not really clear on why Marlin keeps firmware settings the way it does, but I chose to comment out //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands. This worked. If I understand correctly. the M500 command stores values to eeprom that won't be overwritten when reflashing. (not sure why). I think that an M502 would "read in" the current configuration.h and replace any junk in the memory, follow that with an M500 to store it all properly again. I think that's what I read. If that's the case, then I'm not sure why more folks don't make that an absolute must when flashing. anyway. Thanks again. It's working now, though I haven't turned the EePROM_SETTINGS back on yet.
Yes, you are correct, you can M502 then M500 to pull everything from firmware and save it. I just comment it out to be 100% sure then go back and enable it later. It is handy to use when tuning so you can change settings via command line and they will be stored through reboots, but it has a tendency to make things confusing.
Chris, im having trouble with the z offset, it changes everytime i measure, i think its because of the temperature of the bed... it its normal on inductive sensor? could be the sensor? i think my sensor its one of those 6 36v but im using it on 5v, and its "working"...
Hmm, had some issues trying to get things working with the EZABL. First was the logic was reversed, but switching the wires like TH3D guides says didn't fix that, I had to reverse the logic in firmware. Now it triggers correctly, I set up Z offset and run g28, it homes all axis and then safe homes to the middle of the build plate (roughly, but skewed a bit towards the front/right), z ends up as 1.9mm. When I then do g29 it starts probing with over half of the probe actually in front of the build plate and when it comes to the 3rd point (front right corner) it stops with a "fail to probe" (guessing due to the non centering).
@@ChrisRiley I've figured out now, lots of help from your videos in addition to some googling. Turns out the nozzle can't reach the back end of the plate and end up slightly off the plate to the right. I respecced the build area to 230x225 and set the y offset to -14 so now 0,0 sits just over the front left corner of the build plate. I also set up the boundaries and now it doesn't hit the clips when probing. Unfortunately my bed is severely skewed and uneven so I have stuff to work with yet. I use the Th3D solid mounts, what would your advice be to shim for a slightly more even surface? Over or under the mounts, maybe between the heat bed and build plate (but seems to me that would increase the risk of them movinga round or getting lost). Your guide works perfectly for the EZABL btw. :) As you can see the play is 1.2mm from high to low, not good at all. www.tifozi.net/img/newplot.png Another question, I also followed your Marlin setup guide and I'm now running the 1.1.9 bugfix version, I turned off EEPROM as a few times I got confused when I made changes that seemed to make no difference (printer was using eeprom stored settings). Q is, does bed leveling etc work properly with eeprom turned off, for example z-offset won't be stored will it? (do I set it in firmware or with gcode then?) Sorry for all that, I really appreciate your videos and the personal answers and help given!
Not sure on the shimming, I am not familiar with the product. Maybe print some PETG shims of some kind. The G29 will be taken into account everytime you run it, no eeprom needed. You offset should be pulled from the firmware and never change. Probably best to leave eeprom off until you get everything all set up.
Thomas Andersson lol...dump the substandard ezabl and use the inductive type as Chris. Tims plug goes in without polarity. His crap has taken out a lot of control boards.
The LED on my probe lights up as it should, but whether or not there is metal under the probe an M119 command always tells me that the Z- is triggered. I don't think my issue is in the wiring, but rather in the firmware. Where should I start looking for a mistake?
Excellent, thank you for your this video, you explain things very well and in detail. I have a question: I am not getting the "Bilinear Leveling Grid" values after I perform a G29. Tried to define "Debug _Leveling_Feature" under configuration_h and though that was it for sure but made no difference. Why I can't get these values to appear like it does on your console? I am not using Pronterface, using Simplify3D but I assume the g-code communication is the same. Any ideas? Thanks
Hi Chris. I'm just starting with the 3d printing hobby so bare with me. After watching you video I still have a few questions concerning my Anet A6 with the future XY08N sensor and I hope you will answer them. 1) When I center my nozzle to the bed i get the values : x107 y115 Z0 and for my sensor: x118.2 y168.2 z0 (center of the sensor). The sensor is slightly to the left and front of the nozzle. So far so good. Looking at the Marlin config I have to put in the offset values x-11.2 y-61.8.... But now the fun part.. In Pronterface my Y-axis is reversed. So I have to push on the positive value to get it to move to the front (or is this standard ??) Now my question.... becomes the y-offset a positive number or does it stay a negative one. 2)Does Marlin compensate for the 6.1 cm difference when probing?. No way it can reach the back of the bed. Hope you will answer my questions.
This doesn't transfer well, but I will give it a try. Pronterface isn't laid out well. It you hit +Y the bed is going to slide to the front on the printer, -Y it will move to the back. So you are ok there. If the probe is left and front of the hotend those will be negative values. As far as the compensation, 6cm is pretty large, but it's best effort, just let it probe where it can. Hope this was close to the answer, let me know. * +-- BACK ---+ * | | * L | (+) P | R
Well.... I have placed the sensor and have put in the values mentioned in the vlog, but how hard I try..... it won't home in the middle of the bed. It homes at X72 instead of 111. Where the 39 offset comes from... Haven't got a clue. No sensor is activated. When I give the G0 x110 Y110 F3000. Y does it thing, and X stops at 72. Z stops when the probe senses the bed and then goes up 10. (I have seen a script for doing this somewhere for stowing / travelling). Any clue to where I may find the answer?
I would be very interested to see what this would look like on the anycubic delta auto leveling. The G33 delta calibration seems to really change the radius on me beyond what it should be.
I used www.thingiverse.com/thing:1976680 to construct a switch probe. I tried to follow the mentioned steps, but I think the Z offsets are not quite right for the added fixture (v2). Even still, I see it go through the motions and UBL steps produced a table of values but way high, 17+ mm off the bed. There is mention of a fade height. But no mention of why its important , what it does, or why 10mm is recommended. My main problem on the anycubic delta is accuracy and initial layer. 50mm square is not at the 0.0125 mm as indicated by anycubic. I was hoping auto calibration would assist here, but perhaps I am asking too much.
also how do i get to the screen you used to input the gcode? my version of cura doesn't seem to have this function as far as i know. i do have slic3r and will try that.
So you have a Z max sensor up top and a bed leveling sensor? You would need to set home at Z max, then adjust your printer height according to the offset.
@@ChrisRiley Dang, I'm kinda locked in to the EZABL now as it's on its way, but there seems to be no support for it unless you use the unified firmware, and if you can't use that you're kinda sool (and I will get an upgrade board fairly soon so will need vanilla Merlin).
@@SteinerSE Oh, yeah, if it's just the sensor then your fine. Those are exactly the same as all the others. This should get you up and going on stock Marlin. I thought you meant you already had Unified.
@@ChrisRiley No, not yet flashed the bootloader, I only got the printer (Creality Ender 3) a week ago and still waiting for most of the parts. While the TH3D unified firmware is nice I think in the long run it might be better sticking with Vanilla Marlin, especially for portability if you switch boards etc. Your thoughts? On that note, you see quite a bit about the MKS Gen L, but there's pretty much no info at all about the Fysetc F6 board, would love to see guides and reviews of that.
I am a bit of a purest. I prefer to stick with stock Marlin. That way you are sure to get all the new features and as you say, you can port it to pretty much any machine. That Fysetc stuff seems to be getting popular. I might look into getting a hold of one.
@@ChrisRiley I tried that but it takes me off to the side of center. i tried over and over to set the safe home position but it did not work. I ended up wiping the factory firmware and started from scratch where i think it much better but still needs some fine tuning
@@ChrisRiley should but doesn't, when i tried running a print it thought the z end stop was still there instead of using the probe function, for my application im using the build plate and hot end as the switch contacts, it would be very helpful to know what to do for the start/stop gcode to make this work. edit: oh wait, i think i forgot a step, i forgot to set the z min end stop and z probe to false. < W >
Ive watched Dozens of videos trying to get my NPN sensor to work on my Anet A8. With this video i was able to get it working in moments. EXCELLENT VID CHRIS.
AWESOME! Glad it worked out for you!
if you own a NPN NC/ NO sensor you can wire your Z endstop as normal in parallel with the sensor. When the Z endstop is triggered it will close or open the circuit to ground/ possitive and cause a trigger which is the same trigger in the code for the NPN sensor. Just be sure to wire the micro switch in the same NO or NC position to match your sensor and splice it into the wires going into your Z endstop on the mainboard.
Thanks for the best instructions on getting basic settings changed.
Your channel is my first stop if i look to change any firmware settings or add any features to my printer.
Thank you for this comment! Glad the videos help you.
@@ChrisRiley so far the level sensor is the single most useful upgrade to my cheapest amazon printer yet.
Great video! 1.5 years later, still relavant. Thanks for such awesome content!
Thanks!
You are the only one talking about Ramps and an optical sensor set up , thank you, great job
KUKULCANGOD Awesome, glad the video was helpful.
Oeh I so subscribed to your channel. After that 2x calculation I had wrong for the skewing correction... now that one sentence of “if it’s not a negative value, move it closer” also adds an AHA! moment. Never read about that, just about the 2mm or so offset. Love how you’re not stopping there but actually measure it!
Awesome! Very cool to see it helped you. More Marlin videos to come.
Can't help but agree with many others below, this is definitely the best video on this topic, you've covered every relevant point.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
You could not ask for a better Video to help with getting setup with Marlin. Thanks a million brother and well done!!
Thanks Brian, glad it helped you out!
This video is quite clearly... on the level. Keep it up Chris!
Ha ha, I see what you did there. Thanks!
Thank you! I had a problem with the X skew and I would never thought about what you explained in the end... at that time I’ve uninstalled the auto level because of that. Now I can put it back again!
Italo Zimbaldi Awesome! Thanks for the comment, it's good to hear it's working for you.
4 years old - but your videos are great - thanks, man.
Thanks for watching
Great video! Lost all my settings after 2 years and had to start from scratch. This vid was a lifesaver! Cheers!
Thanks! Glad it helped you out.
Ive watch like6 diff videos on ABL and yours has been the most thorough thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped you.
I've searched a ton for these very information. Thanks man, this helped me a lot. The only resource I needed for bed leveling and mechanical switch probe.
Nice! You are welcome!
This is what I have been looking for some time Nice direct presentation. THK
Thanks Paul! Glad it was helpful.
Just wanted to say thank you very much for this video. It helped me massively when setting up my CR-10S with an ABL and TMC2208’s. Your videos have been so helpful in upgrading all my printers and I wanted to say how grateful I am for your work. All the best dude. Please keep them coming 😊👍🏽
Thanks so much Neil! I am glad these have helped and will do my best to keep them coming.
I have a question I’m hoping you can PLEASE answer, because I trawled google and asked everywhere in the Facebook groups: I have a CR-10S with a PrintBite sheet on the aluminum bed, using an inductive sensor I set up with this video; my problem is the probe isn’t giving consistent measurements all over the bed. In one place it’s too close and gives nearly clear lines, another (mainly the back) it squishes more and gives a thicker first layer and nearer the front it’s about right. The only consistent thing is every time I probe the bed, it does exactly the same thing in each of those areas with regards to how the layer goes down.
The bed is fixed (no springs), the bed heater is off and I’ve tried over and over setting up the probe sensitivity.
The only way I can overcome it is to use M421 and manually adjust the mesh points myself.
What could it be please? Bad sensor maybe? A list of check points would be really handy.
I appreciate how busy you must be, but I’m literally at my wits end and considering going back to manual mesh leveling. Thank you 🙏
@@neiljclements Hey, sure, happy to help. Let start here. Connect to the printer with Pronterface and run a g28 then a g29. When it is done it will spit out a map of the bed. What does that look like? Get pronterface here if you need it. www.pronterface.com/
Chris, you have been a massive help getting my printer running right. Thank you.
You are very welcome!
WOW!!!! THANK YOU!!!! You made it looked so simple! I didn't know that i need to define number of servos so i wasnt able to compile, was stuck to it (and thinking the right choice was linear leeveling) for about 2 weeks now!
Excellent! Glad it helped you out!
Chris, Thank You for this video. I'm new to 3d printing and was really having a difficult time setting up my inductive probe. Nice video and great work!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This video gives a very good insight in the different sensors and also super helpful. It helped me to configure my sensor! Thank you very much !
Awesome, I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a great video! Although the offset did not work for me. After searching around I found M851 shows current offset which stayed at 0 for some odd reason (my code is correct, running Marlin 1.1.8). The EEPROM has that value set on my Anet A6. Did M501 (to load EEPROM) M851 Z-0.56 (to set my offset) and did M500 (to save to EEPROM). That did the trick. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching! Eeprom still gets me all the time. I usually just disable it altogether if I can until I get my firmware all setup.
Thank you, just saved my life
@@ai9862 Youre a hero!
I like auto bed leveling but I've moved on from it. Just having a well built machine and a solid manual leveling technique works wonders. Great video!
Thanks for the comment, great to hear others perspective.
thanks for your efforts creating this. It was a great help. I don't seem to have the boundary settings in Marlin 2.xx. It does work correctly at the nine firmware calculated points though.
I would warn people about a mistake I made. I was testing the Z proximity at various points. Then made the mistake of moving near to the Y limit and then asking it to home Z! My proximity sensor is 51mm behind the heads so had no bed to detect.
Thanks again
You're welcome! Doh! I have done that a time or two. Marlin 2.0 is a bit different I noticed. I just redid this video for 2.0 in fact.
Great video again Chris, your my go-to guy for everything I need to learn about printing and firmware, very easy to follow
Thanks Stuart, that's awesome to hear!
Yes. Thanks and well done. This is the most informative youtube vid i've bumped into regarding auto bed levelling and I've had to look believe me. Anyway. A big thanks. You got me through it all.
Thank you very much for the comment. I am very glad it helped. Thank you for watching. :)
Chris. Thanks for NOT suggesting the "Whiney Guy" probe.
Inductive is the way to go.
In my experience, you can go down to your local Sheet metal shop and get a galvanized metal plate in 24-20ga. thickness. It needs to be cut on a large sheer to insure flatness. The zinc coating works better than anything I've tried if you use hairspray or magigoo.
The second most important use of the metal sheet is it fastens down with 4 rare earth magnets from the underside of the heater and you can do away with the clips.
By The Way GREAT UNBIASED VIDEOS. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
Ha ha ha! Thanks for the comment! That's good info to have. I have a metal cut to length place close to me, I need to head over there and take a look around. Have a good one!
mine finally showed up, and I found the video.. its a great day. thanks
Nice!
maybe need to go into detail about the opitions and probables, please do a ender 5 type with inductive fixed probe .. a little daunting first time going through the settins as i am using the Z max endstop pin,
will be apreciated thanks
Great suggestion! I'll see what I can do.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. Your channel is overflowing with gems of information.
Thanks for the complement and thanks for watching.
Thank you for your hard work! This seems to be the best video out there on this topic.
Thanks! I am glad it helped you out.
Just looking at this and this for my home made printer and this is a good insight to the subject
Thanks, George!
You have some of the best videos on TH-cam for 3D printing. That being said could you do one on Unified bed leveling with the new 1.1.9 version and how to do it with probe?
Thanks Keep up the good work !!!!!
Thank you very much! It is on the list!
Best auto bed leveling tutorial, thanks !!!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful.
7:53 setting the z offset within the marlin configuration files
Hey Chris, did you have a question?
@@ChrisRiley nope just leaving a link for those who come back to the video and like to jump to the marlin configuration part of the inductive sensor install / upgrade.
great video BTW, 👍 super helpful
@@the.real.ipatch Sweet! Thanks man! I just wanted to make sure TH-cam didn't cut you off. LOL
Hi Chris, have you heard of the Precision Piezo sensor that utilizes a sensor that detects vibration on the hot-end itself? I'm wondering if you have an opinion on this compared to the BLTouch for any-material probing.
I have heard of that and I have tried to get one. Seems like everytime I look they are sold out. As far as accuracy, I think they would both achieve the same results. The Piezo however would be really handy because you would be leveling right at the nozzle. That would work great on deltas.
Hi Chris! Really nice video man could not be better.
Awesome! Thanks!
Finally the video that helped me to autolevel my bed ! thanks a lot :)
You are very welcome, thanks for watching.
THAT was a really helpful tutorial! Thanks a bunch.
You bet!
Why you didn't change the Z offset using eprom instead of reuploading at every change? Also, which version of marlin shows the map result for G29 at 10:29? I am using 1.1-bugfix and it don't. It is a BILINEAR thing perhaps? I'm using 3POINT
I don't remember, it's been to long ago. My guess is that only works for the mess leveling.
@@ChrisRiley Yes, I tried and can confirm it is a bilinear thing :-) Now I get
0 +0.705 +0.439 +0.182
1 +0.305 +0.158 -0.245
2 -0.109 -0.250 -0.535
If I understand correctly, the 0,0 point is about 0,8mm (.705+.109) higher than 200,0 point, is that correct?
@@brunocabral1578 Yes, that is correct.
You can use a glass sheet with COPPER foil tape. You can also get STEEL foil tape that may be more sensitive to the inductive sensor.
Sweet! Do you have a link to that tape?
@@ChrisRiley Got it on ebay. Just search for 'copper foil tape'
This video really helped out, thank you for sharing!
You bet! Thank you
mint video as usual chris im just about finished my printer and was going to use bltouch but because i have a 13x13" bed il try this one and thqat about finishes my build
Awesome Tony, glad it was helpful.
Hi. Great Video. Helped me a lot but I am still struggling with the distance between the nozzle and the bed. I am always 0.3mm too high. Defining the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER doesn´t change anything for me. If it is set to 0 or 10 the distance between nozzle and bed when I home the nozzle is always 0.3mm. So when I start printing it prints in the air. I hope you can help me out.
You're probably getting hung up from eeprom. Do a M502 then M500 and that should pull in your offset. You can use M851 Z to adjust it manually. Use M503 to see what it is set at.
@@ChrisRiley thank you for the quick answer. this is what i get when i do the M503: >>> m503
SENDING:M503
echo: G21 ; (mm)
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D3.00
echo: M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E95.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X400.00 Y400.00 Z4.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X9000 Y5000 Z50 E10000
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
echo: M204 P1000.00 R1000.00 T1000.00
echo:Advanced: Q S T X Y Z E
echo: M205 Q20000 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00
echo:Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H200 B50 F0
echo: M145 S1 H230 B70 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P16.83 I1.02 D69.29
echo: M304 P295.00 I35.65 D610.21
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z0.00
It says nothing after the echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):...
@@ChrisRiley even if I change the Offset via M851 Z0.3 or M851 Z-0.3 nothing changes on the distance between nozzle an bed
@@habe4741 Email sent.
@@habe4741 Email sent.
WoW Thanks so much your video are really helping me out ..... KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK !!!!!
Dustin Wooldridge Awesome! Thanks for the comment. Glad it worked out.
Thanks for the video.
Here,I have a problem about auto bed leveling.I suppose that my heat bed was flat, but it was slant after assemble, there would be about 15 degree between heat bed and X-axis and it was parallel to Y-axis，when I use auto bed leveling during printing，would it affect the size in x direction and y direction？
Or there is X and Y offset to ensure the adjusting accuracy？
The size of the model being printed you mean? If so, that should be adjusted accordingly.
Very comprehensive video.
Thank you very much!
You are welcome.
You save my life with BLTOUCH. Thanks Décio from Brazul.
Nice! I am glad this was helpful!
Great video! Got ABL working and have had some nice prints, but one thing is kind of odd to me:
When I'm doing prints on pronterface I don't notice the z-axis height changing as it goes around the bed, shouldn't I see this value fluctuate by a couple hundredths if my bed is about that far out of alignment in any given spots? I thought maybe the value just doesn't update but I also don't see my z stepper motors moving as it prints across different parts of the bed. I've got G29 enabled on my starting g-code, is there something else I'm missing? If I'm not seeing change in the z-axis as it goes across a given layer, what actual bed leveling is taking place?
Yes, you should see the Z adjust the height up to a certain point it will stop if fade height is set, but it should be doing it on the first 10mm or so. Unless your bed is super level.
Good one man,easy to understand.
Great! Thanks for the feedback!
Very nice Chris! You just made my life much easier!
Thanks! I am glad to hear it!
Great video, helped me so much. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped.
good tutorial Chris .... this is very clear
Thanks! Glad it helped.
Really good tutorial. very clear and perfect explanation! saved my life
Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for you.
Great vid thanks. Currently setting up a hypetcube with marlin 1.1.9. Subscribed.
Sweet build!
Hi Chris, very good video. I use an AM8 with a capacitive sensor. I've done everything according to your description. But my nozzle always stays to high above the bed after homing. Even if i adjusted the Z-offset in the firmware and deactivated the soft endstops. Do you have any hint, what may be wrong?
Hey Michael, Is there anything in the M851 field on the M503 output? If might be eeprom causing you issues. I would do a M502 and M500 just to be safe and make sure you are pulling the right values.
Thank you Chris.. just ordered some sensors.
Sweet! You're welcome!
Thank you very much for this clear and instructive video! You learned me some useful things!
Nils Björkman You are welcome.
man i need something like this i cant get a print now that my beds not lv no more and its being hard to get back lv. epic video
Thanks! It definitely takes some guess work out of it.
You don't need to disable MIN ENDSTOP CHECKINGs, you just have to G1 S1 while testing then G1 S0 after finishing. G1 S1 will disable endstop checking
That is true, now a days that is really handy.
Hi Chris, how I can connect the proximity sensor NPN to SKR 1.3? I have the same sensor you have. Many thanks!
Hey man, video on this coming on Wednesday.
I’ve been following all the procedure step by step until 7:35 ... with “m119” input, my pc still shows “z-stop open”, even if sensor’s led is switched on ... how is it possible? Any suggestions?
Try switching Zmin endstop and zmin_min_porbe endstop from either true to false. Just filp both and see if that fixes it.
@@ChrisRiley with those settings the probe is always triggered ... XD
Chris Riley is there something else I could try?
@@andreabonvicini1729 Sounds like a sensor problem, is it a 5v sensor or a 6-36. Maybe not enough voltage to trigger it.
Chris Riley 6-36 ... I tried to replace the sensor with no results
Thanks for explain! Very helpful!
Thanks for watching Frank!
Hi,
Thank so much for this video with a good information. I have a SKR mini E3 board on my Ender. Can i connect my capacitive sensor on PC14 (Probe) ? I use optoisolator for protect my board because i use 24V on the probe. It is the same firmware modification like BLTouch. Thank for help.
Yep, you can use it on that port, just comment out #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
Thanks, This was very helpful. Thumbs Up....
You bet! Glad it helped you.
Could a load cell be added for a perfect first layer without manual -height adjustment?
It could, there are a lot of options for things like that now a days. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap
@@ChrisRiley That would make a great follow-on to your four-part Geeetech I3 Pro B refurbishment series which was excellent.
Great Video! This helped get me alot further. So, thanks for that. But I still wasn't successful:( When Auto-Homing, it stops at the offset (My offset value, instead of 0). So my nozzle is still my offset value, away from my bed. Marlin recognizes that it's not at 0. I can manually step it down to zero, it just won't automatically zero itself. Any ideas?
So it should stop at your negative offset. The offset will be in the negative to compensate for the probe distance below the nozzle. Hopefully I am understanding you correctly.
@@ChrisRiley I was under the impression that it would zero itself when homing, but it would stop at the offset. I had yet to run a print through, but once I did, it ran perfect. So thanks again for this video!
Great!
Thanks. was super easy to follow
Awesome, glad to hear it.
always lovely to see the LOG :D as always im a fan of your videos ;)
Thanks, LOG is still cranking away.
i know i have asked you this before but how good is the log? is it dependable like a Mk2 or do you have a bit so and so on the print quality?
It's so so, its not as dependable as the MK2. If the print quality on the MK2 was a 10, the log would be about a 7. I think if it had a real E3D hot end, a nicer main board and some nicer linear bearings It would probably work much better. Then if I could get a hold of an MK42 bed, then we might get close to the real thing.
if you get the mk2,5 upgrade then you would have a spare mk42 bed. Thats a thought :)
EspenShampoo25 I know man, so tempting.
I used this to setup a probe on one of my printers, and I got it to work great. Thanks for that.
However, the nut on the probe got shaken loose and I had to re-tighten it (as well as set my new z-offset).
No matter what Z-offset I define in Marlin, I have to raise the printhead .3mm to get it to be mechanically at zero. Adding or subtracting 0.3 doesn't change anything. Can you think of a solution off the top of your head?
My first thought is maybe you have something in eeprom that is messing you up. If there is a Z851 command listed that is probably affecting it. I would run M502 them M500 and try again first before I did anything else.
@@ChrisRiley Gotcha. The procedure has been disconnect from pronterface > change Z0 in firmware > upload > home + bed level + jog to mechanical zero. It worked when I did it the first couple of times, dunno why it isn't working now but I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
great tutorial. i followed this and this worked like a charm!
One question to you is if i change the filament from PLA to ABS or vice-versa each time i need to upload the new offset as the offsets are different due to very different temp setting of bed. Do you have any ideas on how this can be overcome?
Thanks for watching, glad you found it helpful. Prusa is currently developing a temp calculator in the firmware to try to combat this type of issue. I have tested it with little success so far. The best thing I have found for this is babystepping. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/0pt_b2ZizQM/w-d-xo.htmlm21s This will let you adjust the offset on the fly. Not a great fix, but it works for me.
I just slightly adjust the Z offset on the front panel when changing filament type. MUCH simpler than faffing around changing firmware!
@@djtaylorutube What printer do use? Do you use babystepping?
@@ChrisRiley Malyan M150. In fact, I can change bed entirely and get back to working very quickly by using a semi automanualmatic method. What I do is set up a print that has nozzle temp set to 0 and make sure there's no plastic stuck to the bottom.
Heat the nozzle to normal temperature.
Find Z with G28 and leave the nozzle where it is. Then get the piece of paper out and manually nudge Z down by 0.1 increments and sum up the offset to the point where the paper under the nozzle is grabbed as per a normal level process.
Take that value and add it to the existing Z offset via the front panel and save.
Next, start my fake print with the hot end set at 0 degrees and as soon as it starts layer 1, pause the print and just check that the paper slides under the nozzle. Because the hot end is off, there's less expansion and the paper has a bit more gap. This step is really just me checking that all is as intended.
Then start a proper print and depending on filament type, I find that within a couple of attempts, I just have to nudge the z offset 0.1 a couple of times or even 0.05 and I'm dialed in for that filament type. E.g. changing ABS fit different ABS requires no change but swap to PLA might need a couple of offset nudges to tune.
Other than that, very straightforward. It sounds more effort than it is. Takes me 5 mins max.
@@djtaylorutube Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
Danke hat mir sehr geholfen!!
Du bist herzlich Willkommen!
What program are you using to Input live g code into the printer so you can check sensor height?
Thats pronterface www.pronterface.com/
Chris you did a perfect job explaining how to and why and what censors to use. i have been trying to auto level my bed forever. had no problem when i used skynet 3d. Used to have to G92 Z10 and all the stuff but with Marlin i was having trouble because i could not change the z axes to get a negative number. Thanks to your video i know know i had to comment out// define MIN_ SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS Still have not gotten my LCD 2004 screen, red with 5 buttons to work wright on my Anet A8. Even when i used skynet they would not work, center button and up and down but not right and left, do not know what i am doing wrong but the bed leveling i have gotten that part going good thanks to you Chris.
44mod Thanks for the comment, I am glad it helped you out.
Hey Chris, excellent video. Im not very good at Marling and you managed to explain everything clearly.
I have a Core-XY machine and...
I have an issue. When I run G28, my printer moves its axis to home but my hotend and probe are lightly off the bed so when it tries homing on Z it tries to push beyond the homing point because when fully homed, the hotend is outside of the bed. If I try moving the hotend over the bed it tells my I must Home X, Y, and Z first. Repeating the problem previously mentioned. Any advise?
Thanks! Yes, you need to enable Z safe homing. That will home Z in the center of the bed. //#define Z_SAFE_HOMING just uncomment this one.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks a lot! Will attempt this and get back to you asap!
Hey Chris! I finally got home and Tried what you said, however: When I do G28, it Homes X, Y, then the head moves about 30 mm in X and Y then start homing the Z, And even tho the Probe does Trigger (LED lights up), the printer Continues Raise the bed even further! the print head crashes into the bed but keeps going! Any Ideas?
@@fhadesson9525 Sounds like maybe the probe logic is flip flopped. Try switching z endstop and z probe fro false to true or vise versa.
@@ChrisRiley Hey Chris! Just tried. it. This time Both being on true(they were on false) Now the probe does not even light up at all. Same crashing into bed problem.
Hi Chris, Im going to install a BLtouch, i have Marlin 1.1.8 installed from the factory on my printer, if im going to make the changes you say in the video, do i need to download the firmware i have in the printer in order to get all the settings right? Or can I just make the changes and update the ones that are in the printer??? or might something stop working if I do that?, I have a printer with 3 in 1 out extruders, Can i make a backup of the firmware someway? or is that not needed?, if I just need to upload a new firmware could I change to 2.0 version at the same time?
If you flash your firmware, you will lose all your custom settings. There is no way to do a backup from the existing firmware on the board. The best you can do is run an M503, record those settings and try to load them into a new version.
Can you show me how to connect on ramp14 board??im vietnamese so i can not understand all of you said , i saw your project is really good, thank you
For RAMPS I recommend you get a 5v sensor and just plug it directly into the Z min endstop plug.
Good video. New to 3d Printing. Just wondering how is that you read and write the configurations to the printer.
You have to use the Arduino IDE and you can only write, you can't read. So you need a copy of Marlin (or other firmware) that is configured for your printer or you have to configure it from scratch. Link to IDE www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Link to Marlin: marlinfw.org/
Thanks for watching, sorry there isn't an easier way to edit the config, you might see if your printer manufacture has a copy you can use.
Keep up the great job, thanks for the help
for sale here - www.3dmaxprinter.com/shop/parts/touch-auto-bed-leveling-sensor-for-3d-printer/
Hi mr. Chrìs can you make a tutorial for ender 3? Thank you
Hey Marlon the process is going to be really close to the ender 2 and I did that in this video. th-cam.com/video/O2126G4oO30/w-d-xo.html
AWESOME video , but please enable Line Numbering , this would be helpful :))
Thanks for watching! Great feedback, thank you, will do!
:)
This video is great! Thank you! I'm having an issue tho.
I followed the instructions correctly but I cannot set the offset. Somehow after G29, my printers moves up on Z Axis to a random position and therefore everytime I ran M114 to see the offset, I get a different value everytime. Do you have any idea what could be doing this? After a G28, when I do G0 Z0 I get the perfect "layer height" but after G29, the value is just random!
So after the G29, if you move to Z0, what does M114 say? How close is your nozzle to the bed at that point?
@@ChrisRiley After G29 -> G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F5000 -> M114 shows Z = 0. But, the distance is about 0.60 from the bed. When I change the Nozzle Offset in Marlin and I go again, I still don't get a proper distance. Like if the Offset did not correct the height properly.
Now, what I have noticed is that when I do G29 -> M114 right after G29 is done, I get a random Z height value. Sometimes it´s 7.8, other time 12.5 and so on...
@@rodrigocandi2403 What does eeprom have to say, what does m503 output look like?
@@ChrisRiley Thanks again for taking a minute to help me. So, right now after the G29 is over, I send M114 and get: X:145.00 Y:128.00 Z:11.32.
Then G1 X100 Y100 and go down until I get the piece of paper under the nozzle. Then M114 and I get Z:0.72.
So, M851 Z0.72 and my M503 looks like:
echo: G21 ; Units in mm
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:Filament settings: Disabled
echo: M200 D1.75
echo: M200 D0
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E80.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X200.00 Y200.00 Z10.00 E25.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X3000 Y3000 Z300 E10000
echo:Acceleration (units/s2): P R T
echo: M204 P300.00 R3000.00 T300.00
echo:Advanced: S T B X Z E
echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.30 E5.00
echo:Home offset:
echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z10.00
echo:Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H180 B70 F0
echo: M145 S1 H240 B110 F0
echo:PID settings:
echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00
echo: M304 P4000.00 I30.82 D150.00
echo:Z-Probe Offset (mm):
echo: M851 Z0.72
Now, I'm going to try once again:
G28 -> G29 -> M114 (X45.00 Y:128.00 Z:9.47 - that is the random Z height that I'm talking about).
Moving forward I go: G1 X100 Y100 Z0 F5000 -> M114 -> X:100.00 Y:100.00 Z:0.00 but the nozzle is too high. So I go again and move it with the Pronterface until the piece of paper under the nozzle is good... and now I get Z: -1.90
All of this with the unheated bed and nozzle.
I hope you can find the mistake or error.
Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley Hey, I just upgraded my printer to Marlin 1.1.9 and the problex is fixed. Clearly a bug that I activated somehow.
First off, Great video! II actually used like 4 videos to get all of this sort of working, but yours was the most complete for the Marlin part. Here is my issue right now. at x home, the sensor is off of the bed, so it just crashes. On the bed it works fine, but since there is no metal under the probe at X-Home it doesn't respond. I've tried various settings in Marlin and can't find the right one to push the x axis over a bit after tripping the end stop. Any help would be wildly appreciated.
The quickest fix for this issue is to set Z safe homing. You can alter bed size, but safe homing is easier. It will home in the center. Give that a try uncomment this line.
//#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
thanks Chris. Great video and fast response. I'm sorry, but I'm just not getting things to work right for me. I followed your setting and the video, but something isn't right. The system is always pulling up regardless of what i put in to the z-offset. I put in a -50 value to just test it and it does the same thing. I can do a G28, get the bed home. Then G29 then center and Z0 and it will be .5mm off the bed. I can set the offset to 10 or -0 and the head will still zero to .5mm. This is the frustrating part. As I understand it, the firmware z-offster from extruder should set the absolutet value offset. So I should be able to crash tthe head, but I can't. Any thoughts?
More than likely you have something saved in eeprom. Comment the #define eeprom option out and re-reupload you should be better results.
You probably saved my life with this response. Thank you so very much. I'm still not really clear on why Marlin keeps firmware settings the way it does, but I chose to comment out //#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands. This worked. If I understand correctly. the M500 command stores values to eeprom that won't be overwritten when reflashing. (not sure why). I think that an M502 would "read in" the current configuration.h and replace any junk in the memory, follow that with an M500 to store it all properly again. I think that's what I read. If that's the case, then I'm not sure why more folks don't make that an absolute must when flashing. anyway. Thanks again. It's working now, though I haven't turned the EePROM_SETTINGS back on yet.
Yes, you are correct, you can M502 then M500 to pull everything from firmware and save it. I just comment it out to be 100% sure then go back and enable it later. It is handy to use when tuning so you can change settings via command line and they will be stored through reboots, but it has a tendency to make things confusing.
very useful thanks brother！
You're welcome!
Chris, im having trouble with the z offset, it changes everytime i measure, i think its because of the temperature of the bed... it its normal on inductive sensor? could be the sensor? i think my sensor its one of those 6 36v but im using it on 5v, and its "working"...
Temp can affect it. So can low voltage. Are you sure it's inductive? That question might sound funny, but the capasitive look very similar.
@@ChrisRiley im sure... i changed my glass bed to aluminum because of the sensor... im having more than 150 microns of variation
@@dddxp7311 I think maybe it might be low voltage causing the inaccuracies. Have you run a repeatability test?
@@ChrisRiley not yet. I will make the test tonight
@@ChrisRiley yes.. tryng with more tension now... lets see
I love your LOG! Any instructions for us to build one like that?
Check out Tom's build videos. This is what I followed. th-cam.com/video/oVWLpvekby0/w-d-xo.html
AWESOME DEAR FRIEND. VERY COOL TUTORIAL
Thanks for watching!
Why do you need to add resistors when you connect the probe to 12volts? also what value of resistors do I need to use?
At 10k and a 1k should work. If you don't use them you will feed 12v back to your board that is 5v.
@@ChrisRiley Cool, Thanks a lot Chris!
Great video! I was able to use this to install an inductive sensor on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus!
Paul Pardee Excellent!
Hmm, had some issues trying to get things working with the EZABL. First was the logic was reversed, but switching the wires like TH3D guides says didn't fix that, I had to reverse the logic in firmware.
Now it triggers correctly, I set up Z offset and run g28, it homes all axis and then safe homes to the middle of the build plate (roughly, but skewed a bit towards the front/right), z ends up as 1.9mm.
When I then do g29 it starts probing with over half of the probe actually in front of the build plate and when it comes to the 3rd point (front right corner) it stops with a "fail to probe" (guessing due to the non centering).
You are probably correct, it's because it wasn't centered. You might need to adjust your probe location/probing limits to get center.
@@ChrisRiley I've figured out now, lots of help from your videos in addition to some googling. Turns out the nozzle can't reach the back end of the plate and end up slightly off the plate to the right. I respecced the build area to 230x225 and set the y offset to -14 so now 0,0 sits just over the front left corner of the build plate. I also set up the boundaries and now it doesn't hit the clips when probing.
Unfortunately my bed is severely skewed and uneven so I have stuff to work with yet. I use the Th3D solid mounts, what would your advice be to shim for a slightly more even surface? Over or under the mounts, maybe between the heat bed and build plate (but seems to me that would increase the risk of them movinga round or getting lost). Your guide works perfectly for the EZABL btw. :)
As you can see the play is 1.2mm from high to low, not good at all. www.tifozi.net/img/newplot.png
Another question, I also followed your Marlin setup guide and I'm now running the 1.1.9 bugfix version, I turned off EEPROM as a few times I got confused when I made changes that seemed to make no difference (printer was using eeprom stored settings). Q is, does bed leveling etc work properly with eeprom turned off, for example z-offset won't be stored will it? (do I set it in firmware or with gcode then?)
Sorry for all that, I really appreciate your videos and the personal answers and help given!
Not sure on the shimming, I am not familiar with the product. Maybe print some PETG shims of some kind.
The G29 will be taken into account everytime you run it, no eeprom needed. You offset should be pulled from the firmware and never change. Probably best to leave eeprom off until you get everything all set up.
Thomas Andersson lol...dump the substandard ezabl and use the inductive type as Chris. Tims plug goes in without polarity. His crap has taken out a lot of control boards.
@@neuxstone Isn't the EZABL an inductive one? Got it working now though, but only under unified firmware which I didn't really want to do.
The LED on my probe lights up as it should, but whether or not there is metal under the probe an M119 command always tells me that the Z- is triggered. I don't think my issue is in the wiring, but rather in the firmware. Where should I start looking for a mistake?
Flip flop your endstop logic. Z min and Z probe.
When the printer runs G29. Is it going to make mesh bed leveling?
Yes, that will build a mesh.
Very nice and very clear
Thanks for sharing
Thanks! Anytime!
Excellent, thank you for your this video, you explain things very well and in detail. I have a question: I am not getting the "Bilinear Leveling Grid" values after I perform a G29. Tried to define "Debug _Leveling_Feature" under configuration_h and though that was it for sure but made no difference. Why I can't get these values to appear like it does on your console? I am not using Pronterface, using Simplify3D but I assume the g-code communication is the same. Any ideas? Thanks
That's strange, with the DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE enabled try a M111 S32 then run your G29, see if that gives you the info you need.
That is precisely what I did. Ran my M111 S32 command and then G29. I am on Marlin 1.1.8 running clean with no issues whatsoever. I will try again.
Ahhhhh, today it worked, weird. I am sure I make a mistake some where along the way. Anyway thank you very much for your time and your great videos.
You stumped me, so I glad it is working now. :)
Hi Chris.
I'm just starting with the 3d printing hobby so bare with me.
After watching you video I still have a few questions concerning my Anet A6 with the future XY08N sensor and I hope you will answer them.
1) When I center my nozzle to the bed i get the values : x107 y115 Z0 and for my sensor: x118.2 y168.2 z0 (center of the sensor). The sensor is slightly to the left and front of the nozzle. So far so good. Looking at the Marlin config I have to put in the offset values x-11.2 y-61.8.... But now the fun part.. In Pronterface my Y-axis is reversed. So I have to push on the positive value to get it to move to the front (or is this standard ??) Now my question.... becomes the y-offset a positive number or does it stay a negative one.
2)Does Marlin compensate for the 6.1 cm difference when probing?. No way it can reach the back of the bed.
Hope you will answer my questions.
This doesn't transfer well, but I will give it a try. Pronterface isn't laid out well. It you hit +Y the bed is going to slide to the front on the printer, -Y it will move to the back. So you are ok there. If the probe is left and front of the hotend those will be negative values.
As far as the compensation, 6cm is pretty large, but it's best effort, just let it probe where it can.
Hope this was close to the answer, let me know.
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) P | R
Well.... I have placed the sensor and have put in the values mentioned in the vlog, but how hard I try..... it won't home in the middle of the bed. It homes at X72 instead of 111. Where the 39 offset comes from... Haven't got a clue. No sensor is activated. When I give the G0 x110 Y110 F3000. Y does it thing, and X stops at 72. Z stops when the probe senses the bed and then goes up 10. (I have seen a script for doing this somewhere for stowing / travelling).
Any clue to where I may find the answer?
Never mind.... My printer is haunted. Yesterday all day problems... today... Homes well, bed levels good...
I would be very interested to see what this would look like on the anycubic delta auto leveling. The G33 delta calibration seems to really change the radius on me beyond what it should be.
Ahhhh....G33, yeah that is sequence that has some magic to it. Let me give it a try with a touch sensor and see what I come up with.
I used www.thingiverse.com/thing:1976680 to construct a switch probe. I tried to follow the mentioned steps, but I think the Z offsets are not quite right for the added fixture (v2). Even still, I see it go through the motions and UBL steps produced a table of values but way high, 17+ mm off the bed. There is mention of a fade height. But no mention of why its important , what it does, or why 10mm is recommended. My main problem on the anycubic delta is accuracy and initial layer. 50mm square is not at the 0.0125 mm as indicated by anycubic. I was hoping auto calibration would assist here, but perhaps I am asking too much.
also how do i get to the screen you used to input the gcode? my version of cura doesn't seem to have this function as far as i know. i do have slic3r and will try that.
I use pronterface www.pronterface.com/
im using the z_max one and an proximity sensor so how would i got setting that up
So you have a Z max sensor up top and a bed leveling sensor? You would need to set home at Z max, then adjust your printer height according to the offset.
@@ChrisRiley thanks
Will this guide work with the TH3D EZABL?
I am not really sure, I don't know how EZABL is setup in the firmware. I've never used it before.
@@ChrisRiley Dang, I'm kinda locked in to the EZABL now as it's on its way, but there seems to be no support for it unless you use the unified firmware, and if you can't use that you're kinda sool (and I will get an upgrade board fairly soon so will need vanilla Merlin).
@@SteinerSE Oh, yeah, if it's just the sensor then your fine. Those are exactly the same as all the others. This should get you up and going on stock Marlin. I thought you meant you already had Unified.
@@ChrisRiley No, not yet flashed the bootloader, I only got the printer (Creality Ender 3) a week ago and still waiting for most of the parts. While the TH3D unified firmware is nice I think in the long run it might be better sticking with Vanilla Marlin, especially for portability if you switch boards etc. Your thoughts?
On that note, you see quite a bit about the MKS Gen L, but there's pretty much no info at all about the Fysetc F6 board, would love to see guides and reviews of that.
I am a bit of a purest. I prefer to stick with stock Marlin. That way you are sure to get all the new features and as you say, you can port it to pretty much any machine. That Fysetc stuff seems to be getting popular. I might look into getting a hold of one.
This is good but what about if your home 0 position is not on the corner of your bed? then it messes everything up.
There is a couple ways around this. Z safe homing is probably easiest. By default it takes you to the middle to home.
@@ChrisRiley I tried that but it takes me off to the side of center. i tried over and over to set the safe home position but it did not work. I ended up wiping the factory firmware and started from scratch where i think it much better but still needs some fine tuning
@@wrxsubaru02 Keep tweaking, you'll get there.
Can the tronxy xy3 use marlin firmware?(
Yes, as long as it doesn't have a touch screen it should work.
Dammit the one I have has a touch screen so what’s my options on getting auto leveling
@@StreamzNow You might see if Tronxy has any options. To go to Marlin you might need to swap to another screen or board.
how do i configure this to use a tactile switch instead of the sensor? is there a setting for this in marlin or do i just use the z nim end stop pins?
The micro switch should work exactly like the probe.
@@ChrisRiley should but doesn't, when i tried running a print it thought the z end stop was still there instead of using the probe function, for my application im using the build plate and hot end as the switch contacts, it would be very helpful to know what to do for the start/stop gcode to make this work.
edit: oh wait, i think i forgot a step, i forgot to set the z min end stop and z probe to false. < W >
Yeah, the logic might change.