The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video
So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!
I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.
Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.
I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible! and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly. put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.
Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks
i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.
DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html check this video. As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.
Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be? Thanks
Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.
Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks
id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?
That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.
Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.
Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look. Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!
38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted
After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?
Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.
Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.
I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you
Yep! That is the point. Rather than use harsh toxic chemicals. You char heavily & then seal with a natural tongue. And it’s more weather, fire & insect proof!
So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?
I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc
Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.
If I have some pine tongue and groove, some of which I’ve already stained and applied poly to, could I apply this method? Or is it too late? I’ve also got a few boards that are warped, but not stained. Could I spray with water and try this technique? All of my boards were also all sanded, as I was going to stain and poly all of them for a wall application. Thank you for any advice!
I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?
could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too
Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?
I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!
Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.
Hi there, i would like to make a Shou Sugi Ban cutting board like these boards, how would you finish them, or wouldn´t you treat them at all in the end? Thank you for your inspirations.
Josef Keilhammer thanks for the question. While a board with treatment would look fantastic. It definitely wouldn’t work. This technique makes the surface of the wood soft and very easy to cut. The crackle especially would just flake when cut on. It’s meant for protection & looks not for use.
So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!
Indeed. Check out my latest video on shousugiban aka yakisugi. I show using various woods. Cedar works best for the alligator charr though. And especially if used outdoors for protection from bugs, weather and rot
Not very often at all. This scrap example sat around my shop for a couple years before I finally threw it away and I mean it was kicked around and thrown around with minimal damage.
Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.
So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?
STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .
I'm in process of doing this for my cedar plank siding. I sealed with teak oil. However i noticed I'm still getting a lot of char residue on hands while handling the boards. Going to do another coat tonight. Should that solve my problem or is there something else you can recommend? Thanks
Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.
great work!! QUESTION: during usage, wont be your hand/arm/clothes/etc black by touching it? so the soot of burned woods are not there anymore after oiling?
Yes it can if you do not correctly coat it with the right mixture. I brush on probably around 5-6 very heavy coats so it could absorb into the wood. Let it cure and then reapplied a few more after that. That way it sealed the pores first. And then sealed over top of the wood as well so it didn’t rub off. Extreme pressure from dropping something might have damaged it but not normal use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I built some western red cedar deck chairs and I'm wondering with the right finish if this technique will work so that people can actually sit in the chairs. Thanks for the video!
I’m considering doing this for a bar top. I love the idea of being able to feel the crackle, yet would want it water resistant. Would the technic you used work? What are your ideas?
I have done this and used my restorer to take off most of the crackle it leaves a beautiful charred finish without the crackle. I think that is what you would have to do to use this as a bar top unless you are completely covering it with a thick coat of epoxy. In my opinion the crackle WILL flake and chip off with this 50/50 mixture of finishing. I would like to see this "table" he is creating after a years worth or use. Remember this has to stand up to USE! I don't think the crackle though beautiful will stay in place.
If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.
"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic. I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish. Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself.. The map-gas is a fine idea. Keep creating.
SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.
First of all; great and really helpful video. I got a question about the long-term success of the finish. Would you recommend doing it this way or have you encountered something better since the making of the video? I'm planning on doing a similar finish on a guiitar body and currently researching on how to best seal in the wood after heavily charring it.
every other video that I've watched about this tells me to brush the wood after the burning even for a deep burn but I didn't see you doing it, is it just personal preference, is it because everyone is trying to achieve a different look?
For a heavy char like this one. The wood is very fragile. That alligator like texture are bubbles essentially in the wood. Brushing it can damage them ruining the effect. If you are using the piece for a fence or siding. Brushing is fine. Though I would prefer to spray the finish on the preserve the look. That is the traditional way. But like this piece if you’re using it for decoration. Pour or spraying on the finish works best to preserve that texture.
Hi, I’m currently trying to make some seating using barrel staves, because they have been used for the storage of whiskey, they are charred in a similar way to the wood I your vid. I have wire brushed and sanded most of the loose flakes and dust away, and I’m looking for a treatment to stabilise the remaining surface. I clearly don’t want the charring to come off on our clothes (not bothered about my own, but if it comes off on my wife’s clothes I’m dead). do you think this mixture would do the job? And is there any chance of you doing a short video, showing how robust this finish is, once it has cured?
Thanks so much. I have used barrel staves for the exact same thing. I use Minwax Polycrylic as it builds up on the surface and once filly cured (about a week) it lasts a long time. Three coats minimum.
Maybe I misunderstood, but did you say you were using Danish Oil, which is a combination of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil, or that you made a mixture of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil that you are comparing to Danish Oil? Also how exactly is water used to prevent warping? Do you mist the board after you char it, or do you give it a light coat of mist beforehand?
Иван Каминский yes it worked. I used cedar here. It came out great. I also hist posted a video with the same process but sealed with a colored epoxy resin. Check itnout
hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅
I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?
Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.
In order to achieve the long term preservation properties this process is traditionally used for you would need to go well beyond the surface. Typically in Japan when this process is used they will burn three boards at a time making a chimney and igniting a piece of paper at the bottom end of the chimney. Depending on the length and thickness of the boards, it will burn for 5 minutes or more. Deeply Charing over half of the thickness of the board in order to ensure the longevity of the process. This process in the video is used for more visual appeal than rot resistance. It looks fantastic I think. Well done
Hi Great video. I was not actually interested in doing this technique, but how to fix my accidental fire damage (on pine wood, I think) in my sauna, which looks exactly like this Shou-Sugi-Ban. Having used Degrease All to remove the oil and to clean it (not sure if I should have done that), I just wondered how I might seal the wood, as I do like the effect. My question is, would Danish Oil / Linseed Oil be heat resistant and steam resistant so I can use it in my sauna? I like my sauna very hot, sometimes topping over 100 degrees Celsius. I also have a steam generator in my sauna too. Any thoughts would be appreciated on how I can create a reliable seal on the interior of my crackled wooden sauna when I get the chance to use it again. Thanks in advance
Mish Mahoney hey! Thanks for the question don’t know ton about saunas. But from research northern lights sauna sealer is the way to go!! Linked it below. www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWHHXOW/?ref=exp_love_of_the_grain_workshop_dp_vv_mw
I am planning on doing this for our kitchen open shelves. Did you find the Danish Oil to be the best sealant, without looking plastic-y (like epoxy)? I want the least amount of transfer possible. Preferably no transfer whatsoever. Thanks!
OneStopJosh yes I liked the way the Danish oil looked and felt after the full cure without any transfer. Try a wipe on poly as well. Both work good. Wipe on poly can be recovered multiple times in a day.
That is really trial and error. Some wood boards will cup badly while some not at all. In my case charr slower with a lighter heat than fast with a heavy heat. Also spraying with water prior to burning can help somewhat. Use narrower boards 6” for example over 10-12”.
I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?
Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.
will this work well with birch plywood? secondly, does it change the thickness/dimensions of the wood? lastly, i’m thinking about doing this for a bed, do you think it’ll stay strong enough if i use birch plywood and only burn the top surface to this extent? and if i apply appropriate enough amount of sealant, will there be any rub off into my mattress/sheets? sorry for so many questions lol
Murtaza I wouldn’t try it on plywood. It can and will melt the adhesives. It will change the thickness of the wood by a fraction. Yes if not sealed it will definitely rub off on the sheets
Hi, i want to make a board for food (not to cut on it just to put the food on for presentation) and i want to make a board with deep char. So i need your advice, which coat i should use? I want to make a border strong enought to keep texture of chara nd of course it must be natural. I would be very thankful for advice.
Taras Ivantsio man that’s tough. Any sealer you use to hold charr in place is not natural. Food grade oil like mineral oil is what I use on serving boards. But that does not harden. I would suggest doing a nice flood coat of epoxy resin. Clear table top type. I recommend Incredible Solutions brand. It is easy 1:1 mix and is a great price. It will harden and seal it perfectly and then you can serve food on it. But do not cut on it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for very quick answer! I will do as you wrote, but last question, after burning wood till deep char, do i need to clean it in some way? or just wait until it become cold and use epoxy?
Hey! that's a very detailed video, thank you so much! We are thinking about doing siding of our house with Shou Sugi Ban, but our contractors say that all of these beautiful cracks will fall off after the first winter. Is it true? how hardy is this finish?
Miss Chriss the original purpose was for use as siding, fencing etc. the whole point of the technique is to protect the wood from weather, bugs etc. It will outlast treated wood and paint if sealed correctly. Tell them to do the research on how to make it properly.
Thank you for your videos, and your welcoming attitude. What's your opinion on using Tung Oil over a wire brushed surface (took a pine plank, charred the surface until a crocodile patterned char formed, took a cheap Harbor Freight stiff wire brush and cleared the char)? I just began checking out the Sho Sugi Ban technique, and I already have the Tung Oil. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Awesome video! I was thinking of making a small pair of skis in this style that I will be using for backcountry trecking. Skis have a rocker in the front that I plan on putting in via steam bending. How can I make sure the burning technique doesn’t warp my rocker and create asymmetrical skis? Thanks!
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The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video
Jah Pedro thats awesome. Thanks
Do you know of a good mix for outdoor projects?
@@samberrigan184 same mix without the beeswax ,
Does it leave the stain, scratches?
Thanks a lot for your artistic idea. This is a missing piece of my project that I have been longer looking !
Fantastic! Thanks so much.
So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!
Yep Yakisugi is what I’ve heard. And yes many have called me out of shosugiban. Lol. I love it and thanks for watching!
Fantastic job, thanks…
Thank you!
wow that looks amazing - I'm so excited to try it. Thanks..
Thanks so much.
Thanks for an informative video
Absolutely thanks for the kind words
Hiya, my home burnt down and I have a LOT of heavily charred still semi-decent planks.
I'm thinking of using them for the outside of the rebuild?
Absolutely! Go for it. Great sentimental repurpose!
I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.
Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.
I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible!
and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly.
put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.
Great idea!
Which epoxy do you use
Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks
It’s still doing well. I had it sitting around my shop getting tossed around etc and still looks good.
That wood be awesome as wine rack
Absolutely!
Thank you sir ....I have found a new love this is wonderful....sorry I am late to the party wow I love it!!!
So to brush or not to brush that is the question what do you think?
It depends on the look you want. I like both
Awesome job! Love the heavy char. Going to be making a table with this method + a resin river in the middle of the table top. Thanks for sharing!
JJ Fording PourSoulStudios thanks very much! Check out my latest Shou Sugi Ban project with tinted epoxy resin!
That sounds like a cool idea! Please post pictures, would love to see how it turns out!
Heavy char plus epoxy will work and look good.
Awesome tag me on social when you make it!
Great job ❤
Thanks
i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.
DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine
th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html check this video.
As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.
Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be?
Thanks
Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.
Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks
Great question for steps. Definitely scrape first.
id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?
Bern any side that’s not charred will.
That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.
Thanks very much. You are truly correct. I like the crackle look better. But to each his own.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 only thing it actually called YAKISUGI, Western countries miss translation is SHO SUGI BAN
Is it strong finish, is it durable or easy to damage/scratch? Would like the review of finish product
Very durable finish when applied according to the directions.
Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.
Nope so far it hasn’t
How durable is the crackle once it’s sealed? Could it be used as decking or would it just dust away?
Not for standing walking on. But for railings & posts it would be fine.
Could you keep the charing if you used this as flooring?
No unfortunately. I don’t think it would withstand the constant pressure and abuse from walking etc.
Hi! What kind of coating do you recommend in order to achieve a more matte finish?
Same finish as I used in the video. Just make sure it is a matte finish version. This was semigloss I believe.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 ❤
How’s the durability on this finish over the loose charred wood now that it’s been a while?
It’s been sitting in my shop since i made it and the only issue is the resin got scuffed from hitting the floor. All good otherwise.
Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look.
Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!
38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted
After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?
Absolutely as long as the linseed is completely cured.
Hi, is it possible to char the wood already fixed as a wall? It’s a pine cladding if a small cabin.
Without burning the house down …
Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.
Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.
I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you
Boiled linseed oil or tongue oil.
@Love Of The Grain Workshop thank you I'll give it a try great content keep it coming 👍
Does this process makes more water or weather proof
Yep! That is the point. Rather than use harsh toxic chemicals. You char heavily & then seal with a natural tongue. And it’s more weather, fire & insect proof!
Beautiful, I am excited to try it.
Denise D Rivers alright!!
So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?
I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc
Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.
Awesome Job Love the Natural Burn all Black , I willHire you to make and enclosure for my Chimney
Your product is incredibly beautiful finishes.
Thank you so much
If I have some pine tongue and groove, some of which I’ve already stained and applied poly to, could I apply this method? Or is it too late? I’ve also got a few boards that are warped, but not stained. Could I spray with water and try this technique? All of my boards were also all sanded, as I was going to stain and poly all of them for a wall application. Thank you for any advice!
Unfortunately I would think it needs to be clean wood prior. Poly would affect how it comes out. Probably wouldn’t hurt to try.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 okay, thank you! I still might sand those with poly, then try to burn. Nothing to lose!
I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?
Hey! That’s it’s original purpose along with siding. Yes you would use a natural oil based finish or even an exterior spar urethane like Helmans spar.
could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too
Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?
I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!
Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.
Familia Hancock awesome! Send me some pics on Instagram or Facebook
Hi there, i would like to make a Shou Sugi Ban cutting board like these boards, how would you finish them, or wouldn´t you treat them at all in the end? Thank you for your inspirations.
Josef Keilhammer thanks for the question. While a board with treatment would look fantastic. It definitely wouldn’t work. This technique makes the surface of the wood soft and very easy to cut. The crackle especially would just flake when cut on. It’s meant for protection & looks not for use.
Thx for the answer, i just saw a guy on a Channel who uses burnt boards as cutting boards, that is why i was asking
Beautiful technique, I can't wait to play around with it!
Vicky Anderson thanks
How did you clean it before you sealed it
Nothing. Other than lightly blow some air on it to remove very loose pieces.
You mentioned watering the wood, when, how do you add water to keep from warping? Thanks.
You can wet before or after burning. Or both to really help. I use a garden pump sprayer.
I really Loved it, If i use a tradicional pine wood, can I get a similar result with that kind of cracks?
Absolutely! Sorry for the very late reply
Great video. Love doing something different like this. Keep the videos coming.
James Buchanan thanks. I have been delayed in making videos. But really need to get going.
So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!
I made a sort of danish oil by combining Tung Oil & Poly. I believe. Though it’s been a while since
Since we are charring so much, would any other wood work too?
Indeed. Check out my latest video on shousugiban aka yakisugi. I show using various woods. Cedar works best for the alligator charr though. And especially if used outdoors for protection from bugs, weather and rot
when are you spraying water? are you spraying on unburned wood or on the char during the burning?
You can do both to help prevent warping
Beautiful work
Valdemiro Hass thank you
Do you have to reapply the oil? If so how often?
Not very often at all. This scrap example sat around my shop for a couple years before I finally threw it away and I mean it was kicked around and thrown around with minimal damage.
If you were doing this for outside siding, do you need to only use cedar?
Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.
So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?
Absolutely! So sorry about the fire!
very cool! I'm about to try something like that as well, but with a epoxy resin finish
That should look fantastic!
STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .
MARTIN MATHEE yep been around a long time!
nice work,thanks.
Thank you
Very nice. I applied this technique to my beehives.
Awesome!
I'm in process of doing this for my cedar plank siding. I sealed with teak oil. However i noticed I'm still getting a lot of char residue on hands while handling the boards. Going to do another coat tonight. Should that solve my problem or is there something else you can recommend? Thanks
You will definitely need a lot of coats to prevent that.
Have you tried this deep char technique on regular pine boards? Also, if this was done on a couch would the char rub off when people touched it?
Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.
Hi, when do you spray the water to prevent warping the wood?
Prior and after burning. And then burn both sides helps as well.
great work!! QUESTION: during usage, wont be your hand/arm/clothes/etc black by touching it? so the soot of burned woods are not there anymore after oiling?
Yes it can if you do not correctly coat it with the right mixture. I brush on probably around 5-6 very heavy coats so it could absorb into the wood. Let it cure and then reapplied a few more after that. That way it sealed the pores first. And then sealed over top of the wood as well so it didn’t rub off. Extreme pressure from dropping something might have damaged it but not normal use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I built some western red cedar deck chairs and I'm wondering with the right finish if this technique will work so that people can actually sit in the chairs. Thanks for the video!
I’m considering doing this for a bar top. I love the idea of being able to feel the crackle, yet would want it water resistant. Would the technic you used work?
What are your ideas?
joshua foster to make it water proof. I would pour a couple flood coats of epoxy resin over top.
It's naturally water resistant. Part of the reason for the wood being this way.
I have done this and used my restorer to take off most of the crackle it leaves a beautiful charred finish without the crackle. I think that is what you would have to do to use this as a bar top unless you are completely covering it with a thick coat of epoxy. In my opinion the crackle WILL flake and chip off with this 50/50 mixture of finishing. I would like to see this "table" he is creating after a years worth or use. Remember this has to stand up to USE! I don't think the crackle though beautiful will stay in place.
Thanks for the video! It is very inspiring. Now I want to do such table myself. Very cool look, I like it 😃
Yana Solare thanks. Have fun
Hello love the channel, I’m wonder how well this process would do on fresh cut log wood which has not been in a kiln? Thoughts
It might bow or twist or split if there green (aka freshly cut) if air dried for at minimum a year or so they should be much less likely to do that.
Excellent stuff bro!! Thanks for sharing your videos!
Denny Daniel thank you
Hey thanks I was wondering how people make heavily burnt wood. I just wonder how much it stains your hands (or does it? ) after you treated the wood
If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.
"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic.
I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish.
Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself..
The map-gas is a fine idea.
Keep creating.
SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.
Excellent effect. Thanks for posting.
IPAS - Independent Productions and Aviation Services thank you!
First of all; great and really helpful video.
I got a question about the long-term success of the finish.
Would you recommend doing it this way or have you encountered something better since the making of the video?
I'm planning on doing a similar finish on a guiitar body and currently researching on how to best seal in the wood after heavily charring it.
For the heavy crackle this worked wonders. You could also use Minwax Polycrylic or epoxy resin. All would lst
every other video that I've watched about this tells me to brush the wood after the burning even for a deep burn but I didn't see you doing it, is it just personal preference, is it because everyone is trying to achieve a different look?
For a heavy char like this one. The wood is very fragile. That alligator like texture are bubbles essentially in the wood. Brushing it can damage them ruining the effect. If you are using the piece for a fence or siding. Brushing is fine. Though I would prefer to spray the finish on the preserve the look. That is the traditional way. But like this piece if you’re using it for decoration. Pour or spraying on the finish works best to preserve that texture.
Awesome. Is there a way to get less shine, more of a matte finish?
Barnaby Rich use a finish that is satin or matte. The one I sed was gloss.
did you not brush out the charcoal?
No not on this example. It’s done more of the traditional Yakisugi style. Leaving the char and then sealing withnoil.
Hi, I’m currently trying to make some seating using barrel staves, because they have been used for the storage of whiskey, they are charred in a similar way to the wood I your vid. I have wire brushed and sanded most of the loose flakes and dust away, and I’m looking for a treatment to stabilise the remaining surface. I clearly don’t want the charring to come off on our clothes (not bothered about my own, but if it comes off on my wife’s clothes I’m dead). do you think this mixture would do the job? And is there any chance of you doing a short video, showing how robust this finish is, once it has cured?
Oh and thanks for the videos, they are great. Haters are always gonna hate.
Thanks so much. I have used barrel staves for the exact same thing. I use Minwax Polycrylic as it builds up on the surface and once filly cured (about a week) it lasts a long time. Three coats minimum.
Maybe I misunderstood, but did you say you were using Danish Oil, which is a combination of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil, or that you made a mixture of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil that you are comparing to Danish Oil? Also how exactly is water used to prevent warping? Do you mist the board after you char it, or do you give it a light coat of mist beforehand?
I mixed the two myself which is similar to danish oil. Spraying before and after can help prevent warping. Charing both sides can also help.
Awesome !!
Moby Dick thanks
Did it work? The ash didn't destroy?
Иван Каминский yes it worked. I used cedar here. It came out great. I also hist posted a video with the same process but sealed with a colored epoxy resin. Check itnout
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks. Have signed up on your channel. I'm going to do a fence in this technology
hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅
On this one it is a danish oil. Just a combination of linseed or tongue oil and polyurethane.
I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?
Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.
If you only give it a light char, does it still protect the wood from wrought?
Thomas Chung yes. It doesn’t need to be crackled heavy to be beneficial. But does need to be burnt black lightly.
In order to achieve the long term preservation properties this process is traditionally used for you would need to go well beyond the surface. Typically in Japan when this process is used they will burn three boards at a time making a chimney and igniting a piece of paper at the bottom end of the chimney. Depending on the length and thickness of the boards, it will burn for 5 minutes or more. Deeply Charing over half of the thickness of the board in order to ensure the longevity of the process. This process in the video is used for more visual appeal than rot resistance. It looks fantastic I think. Well done
Hi
Great video. I was not actually interested in doing this technique, but how to fix my accidental fire damage (on pine wood, I think) in my sauna, which looks exactly like this Shou-Sugi-Ban. Having used Degrease All to remove the oil and to clean it (not sure if I should have done that), I just wondered how I might seal the wood, as I do like the effect. My question is, would Danish Oil / Linseed Oil be heat resistant and steam resistant so I can use it in my sauna? I like my sauna very hot, sometimes topping over 100 degrees Celsius. I also have a steam generator in my sauna too. Any thoughts would be appreciated on how I can create a reliable seal on the interior of my crackled wooden sauna when I get the chance to use it again.
Thanks in advance
Mish Mahoney hey! Thanks for the question don’t know ton about saunas. But from research northern lights sauna sealer is the way to go!! Linked it below. www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWHHXOW/?ref=exp_love_of_the_grain_workshop_dp_vv_mw
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Wow, thank you so much for the super quick response. Great. I shall invest in this. You're a star. Thanks again. :-)
Mish Mahoney anytime. Feel free to ask anytime
I am planning on doing this for our kitchen open shelves. Did you find the Danish Oil to be the best sealant, without looking plastic-y (like epoxy)? I want the least amount of transfer possible. Preferably no transfer whatsoever. Thanks!
OneStopJosh yes I liked the way the Danish oil looked and felt after the full cure without any transfer. Try a wipe on poly as well. Both work good. Wipe on poly can be recovered multiple times in a day.
Sorry what exactly oil you put at the end for coating!?
It’s called Danish oil. You can buy it premixed or mix it yourself with what I mentioned in the video
Oh that is Wayyyyy Cool!
Mitch Muerle thanks very much
I have done some charring. I have an issue with the wood cupping even though I spray it with water. How do you avoid that?
That is really trial and error. Some wood boards will cup badly while some not at all. In my case charr slower with a lighter heat than fast with a heavy heat. Also spraying with water prior to burning can help somewhat. Use narrower boards 6” for example over 10-12”.
If you burn the other side it should bend back
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 thanks for the response. I will definitely continue to try. You have geat videos as well. Thanks for sharing!!
@@marksinger2347 thank you I will definitely try that when that happens next.
Good point!
I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?
Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.
hello sr you dont brush it ? and you drop the water after burn it ? i like that finish that finish is what i im looking for !}
leopetar jk I brushed the finish on in this video. I typically spray it on now. And I use a pump sprayer for watering it down to cool it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 thanks man !!!
leopetar jk anytime! Be sure to check out my latest Shousugiban video!
Muito bonito este trabalho. Parabéns!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks
will this work well with birch plywood? secondly, does it change the thickness/dimensions of the wood? lastly, i’m thinking about doing this for a bed, do you think it’ll stay strong enough if i use birch plywood and only burn the top surface to this extent? and if i apply appropriate enough amount of sealant, will there be any rub off into my mattress/sheets?
sorry for so many questions lol
Murtaza I wouldn’t try it on plywood. It can and will melt the adhesives. It will change the thickness of the wood by a fraction. Yes if not sealed it will definitely rub off on the sheets
Try 100% Tung oil. All natural. Do you have any problems with warping of the boards when heated ?
It can just depend on the board. It will sometimes. It wont sometimes.
That was awesome good job
Thanks
Do you think its possible to carve logos into this using a dremel
Absolutely
Hi, i want to make a board for food (not to cut on it just to put the food on for presentation) and i want to make a board with deep char. So i need your advice, which coat i should use? I want to make a border strong enought to keep texture of chara nd of course it must be natural. I would be very thankful for advice.
Taras Ivantsio man that’s tough. Any sealer you use to hold charr in place is not natural. Food grade oil like mineral oil is what I use on serving boards. But that does not harden. I would suggest doing a nice flood coat of epoxy resin. Clear table top type. I recommend Incredible Solutions brand. It is easy 1:1 mix and is a great price. It will harden and seal it perfectly and then you can serve food on it. But do not cut on it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for very quick answer! I will do as you wrote, but last question, after burning wood till deep char, do i need to clean it in some way? or just wait until it become cold and use epoxy?
Taras Ivantsio nope. Just let it cool and pour the epoxy
Hey! that's a very detailed video, thank you so much! We are thinking about doing siding of our house with Shou Sugi Ban, but our contractors say that all of these beautiful cracks will fall off after the first winter. Is it true? how hardy is this finish?
Miss Chriss the original purpose was for use as siding, fencing etc. the whole point of the technique is to protect the wood from weather, bugs etc. It will outlast treated wood and paint if sealed correctly. Tell them to do the research on how to make it properly.
Love the birdies
Mitch Muerle right!
Hi, regarding the resin. I'm Swedish and not really sure to find the same product, is it standard epoxy mixed with boiled linseed?
1:1 mix of polyurethane and boiled linseed oil.
Thank you for your videos, and your welcoming attitude. What's your opinion on using Tung Oil over a wire brushed surface (took a pine plank, charred the surface until a crocodile patterned char formed, took a cheap Harbor Freight stiff wire brush and cleared the char)? I just began checking out the Sho Sugi Ban technique, and I already have the Tung Oil. Thanks in advance for your advice.
SaucyTreasures I have a video on that technique as well. Check my other vids. It’s the one with almost 1 million views. I cover how to do that as well
Very Stunning. I am applying this to my home but I do have a question....Do I need to burn on both sides or just the exterior? Thanks!
Ian Davidson exterior only.
Love Of The Grain Workshop thanks man! Keep up the beautiful work!
Have you done a heavy cracked piece with an epoxy top. Was thinking of doing that for a bar top?
Richard Williams i am working on that. But haven’t yet
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 just finished making one
Richard Williams I just posted a video with colored epoxy resin on top for a trial piece before I go full scale. Check it out!
Awesome video! I was thinking of making a small pair of skis in this style that I will be using for backcountry trecking. Skis have a rocker in the front that I plan on putting in via steam bending. How can I make sure the burning technique doesn’t warp my rocker and create asymmetrical skis? Thanks!
Kaya hmm good question. Just be sure to have plenty of water on hand to cool it as you go. That should help.