The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video
So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!
I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible! and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly. put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.
That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.
I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.
Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.
id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.
i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.
DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html check this video. As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.
Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.
could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too
Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?
Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks
Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks
Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.
I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?
"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic. I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish. Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself.. The map-gas is a fine idea. Keep creating.
SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.
Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be? Thanks
Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.
Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.
So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?
I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc
Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.
After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?
STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .
Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.
Yep! That is the point. Rather than use harsh toxic chemicals. You char heavily & then seal with a natural tongue. And it’s more weather, fire & insect proof!
So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?
Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look. Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!
38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted
I adore this look and also value the natural wood feel of Danish oil. I’m wondering about doing this on some fir plywood. I want a beautiful, deeply crackled shou sugi panel to hang as an art piece in a high traffic area (nothing too delicate!). If you’ve done any of this on plywood, or think it’s a bad idea, I’d love to know. Wonderful video. Thank you!!
Indeed. Check out my latest video on shousugiban aka yakisugi. I show using various woods. Cedar works best for the alligator charr though. And especially if used outdoors for protection from bugs, weather and rot
Hi there, i would like to make a Shou Sugi Ban cutting board like these boards, how would you finish them, or wouldn´t you treat them at all in the end? Thank you for your inspirations.
Josef Keilhammer thanks for the question. While a board with treatment would look fantastic. It definitely wouldn’t work. This technique makes the surface of the wood soft and very easy to cut. The crackle especially would just flake when cut on. It’s meant for protection & looks not for use.
Not very often at all. This scrap example sat around my shop for a couple years before I finally threw it away and I mean it was kicked around and thrown around with minimal damage.
Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.
Иван Каминский yes it worked. I used cedar here. It came out great. I also hist posted a video with the same process but sealed with a colored epoxy resin. Check itnout
I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you
@@thedynamiteagency any furniture why not but especially outside stuff as the original reason to do this technique was for the weatherproofing ability. There is a reason why you find old camp fires years later, the char is resistance to water, insects and rot and protects the wood within just like the thin layer of aluminum oxide protects aluminum.
If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.
"I don't like the plastic coating, so now I'm going with a mixture of 50% polyurethane"? Why not pure boiled linseed oil and get rid of the plastic altogether? I'd prefer completely natural, and something that's not foreign to where I'm from. Why not applying oil while the wood is still hot, as I've seen some do? And finally - how little oil can you get away with applying while still ensuringto protect the integrity of the wood and not risking getting soot stains on whatever comes into contact with it? By the way, the crackled surface structure that you managed to produce is the best I've seen so far. Well done!
And just to clarify, if it isn't obvious - I have no experience with this area at all. I'm just letting my thoughts out to remedy my ignorance and to satisfy my curiousness :)
great work!! QUESTION: during usage, wont be your hand/arm/clothes/etc black by touching it? so the soot of burned woods are not there anymore after oiling?
Yes it can if you do not correctly coat it with the right mixture. I brush on probably around 5-6 very heavy coats so it could absorb into the wood. Let it cure and then reapplied a few more after that. That way it sealed the pores first. And then sealed over top of the wood as well so it didn’t rub off. Extreme pressure from dropping something might have damaged it but not normal use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I built some western red cedar deck chairs and I'm wondering with the right finish if this technique will work so that people can actually sit in the chairs. Thanks for the video!
I bet if you made a solid cedar table like this but with a two-part epoxy coat it would really POP really nice but I honestly didn't think that it would turn out as good as it did great job
So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!
WAIT OK so great video, but so like how do I make the cliffs and valleys more apparent. I'm imagining the thing covered in epoxy and when you look close it's a whole new charcoal world
You would have to see my other videos about scrubbing the piece. If you want the crackle to show more prominent you would brush coat the resin rather than pour.
In order to achieve the long term preservation properties this process is traditionally used for you would need to go well beyond the surface. Typically in Japan when this process is used they will burn three boards at a time making a chimney and igniting a piece of paper at the bottom end of the chimney. Depending on the length and thickness of the boards, it will burn for 5 minutes or more. Deeply Charing over half of the thickness of the board in order to ensure the longevity of the process. This process in the video is used for more visual appeal than rot resistance. It looks fantastic I think. Well done
If I have some pine tongue and groove, some of which I’ve already stained and applied poly to, could I apply this method? Or is it too late? I’ve also got a few boards that are warped, but not stained. Could I spray with water and try this technique? All of my boards were also all sanded, as I was going to stain and poly all of them for a wall application. Thank you for any advice!
I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!
Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.
Hi, i want to make a board for food (not to cut on it just to put the food on for presentation) and i want to make a board with deep char. So i need your advice, which coat i should use? I want to make a border strong enought to keep texture of chara nd of course it must be natural. I would be very thankful for advice.
Taras Ivantsio man that’s tough. Any sealer you use to hold charr in place is not natural. Food grade oil like mineral oil is what I use on serving boards. But that does not harden. I would suggest doing a nice flood coat of epoxy resin. Clear table top type. I recommend Incredible Solutions brand. It is easy 1:1 mix and is a great price. It will harden and seal it perfectly and then you can serve food on it. But do not cut on it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for very quick answer! I will do as you wrote, but last question, after burning wood till deep char, do i need to clean it in some way? or just wait until it become cold and use epoxy?
hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅
MITCH OFF THE FENCE on thicker pieces there shouldn’t be much cupping if any. Especially using a plumbers torch like this one. On large projects with a weed-garden torch it gets much hotter and there is more of a chance of cupping. But I’ve done large doors and not had enough cupping that it needed repairing.
Hi, I’m currently trying to make some seating using barrel staves, because they have been used for the storage of whiskey, they are charred in a similar way to the wood I your vid. I have wire brushed and sanded most of the loose flakes and dust away, and I’m looking for a treatment to stabilise the remaining surface. I clearly don’t want the charring to come off on our clothes (not bothered about my own, but if it comes off on my wife’s clothes I’m dead). do you think this mixture would do the job? And is there any chance of you doing a short video, showing how robust this finish is, once it has cured?
Thanks so much. I have used barrel staves for the exact same thing. I use Minwax Polycrylic as it builds up on the surface and once filly cured (about a week) it lasts a long time. Three coats minimum.
I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?
Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.
I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?
Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.
The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video
Jah Pedro thats awesome. Thanks
Do you know of a good mix for outdoor projects?
@@samberrigan184 same mix without the beeswax ,
Does it leave the stain, scratches?
Thanks a lot for your artistic idea. This is a missing piece of my project that I have been longer looking !
Fantastic! Thanks so much.
Fantastic job, thanks…
Thank you!
Thanks for an informative video
Absolutely thanks for the kind words
wow that looks amazing - I'm so excited to try it. Thanks..
Thanks so much.
So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!
Yep Yakisugi is what I’ve heard. And yes many have called me out of shosugiban. Lol. I love it and thanks for watching!
Thank you sir ....I have found a new love this is wonderful....sorry I am late to the party wow I love it!!!
That wood be awesome as wine rack
Absolutely!
Beautiful work
Valdemiro Hass thank you
Awesome Job Love the Natural Burn all Black , I willHire you to make and enclosure for my Chimney
I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible!
and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly.
put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.
Great idea!
Which epoxy do you use
Great job ❤
Thanks
Your product is incredibly beautiful finishes.
Thank you so much
Beautiful, I am excited to try it.
Denise D Rivers alright!!
That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.
Thanks very much. You are truly correct. I like the crackle look better. But to each his own.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 only thing it actually called YAKISUGI, Western countries miss translation is SHO SUGI BAN
nice work,thanks.
Thank you
Awesome !!
Moby Dick thanks
Love the birdies
Mitch Muerle right!
Very nice. I applied this technique to my beehives.
Awesome!
So to brush or not to brush that is the question what do you think?
It depends on the look you want. I like both
Oh that is Wayyyyy Cool!
Mitch Muerle thanks very much
Have you ever attempted kerf bending a 3/4" board and then torching it? I am wondering how those weak points hold up to that torch. Love this look!
I haven’t sorry
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 No worries. I'm going to find out this week if it holds up. I can let ya know if you're curious.
Please thank you
I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.
Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.
Great video. Love doing something different like this. Keep the videos coming.
James Buchanan thanks. I have been delayed in making videos. But really need to get going.
Excellent stuff bro!! Thanks for sharing your videos!
Denny Daniel thank you
id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?
Bern any side that’s not charred will.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.
Familia Hancock awesome! Send me some pics on Instagram or Facebook
i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.
DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine
th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html check this video.
As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.
Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.
Nope so far it hasn’t
could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too
Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?
You mentioned watering the wood, when, how do you add water to keep from warping? Thanks.
You can wet before or after burning. Or both to really help. I use a garden pump sprayer.
Awesome job! Love the heavy char. Going to be making a table with this method + a resin river in the middle of the table top. Thanks for sharing!
JJ Fording PourSoulStudios thanks very much! Check out my latest Shou Sugi Ban project with tinted epoxy resin!
That sounds like a cool idea! Please post pictures, would love to see how it turns out!
Heavy char plus epoxy will work and look good.
Awesome tag me on social when you make it!
Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks
It’s still doing well. I had it sitting around my shop getting tossed around etc and still looks good.
This is it!
Tony McQueen thank you very much
Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks
Great question for steps. Definitely scrape first.
Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.
I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?
Hey! That’s it’s original purpose along with siding. Yes you would use a natural oil based finish or even an exterior spar urethane like Helmans spar.
"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic.
I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish.
Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself..
The map-gas is a fine idea.
Keep creating.
SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.
That was awesome good job
Thanks
Could you keep the charing if you used this as flooring?
No unfortunately. I don’t think it would withstand the constant pressure and abuse from walking etc.
Awesome. Is there a way to get less shine, more of a matte finish?
Barnaby Rich use a finish that is satin or matte. The one I sed was gloss.
very cool! I'm about to try something like that as well, but with a epoxy resin finish
That should look fantastic!
Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be?
Thanks
Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.
Excellent effect. Thanks for posting.
IPAS - Independent Productions and Aviation Services thank you!
How did you clean it before you sealed it
Nothing. Other than lightly blow some air on it to remove very loose pieces.
Hi, is it possible to char the wood already fixed as a wall? It’s a pine cladding if a small cabin.
Without burning the house down …
Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.
I really Loved it, If i use a tradicional pine wood, can I get a similar result with that kind of cracks?
Absolutely! Sorry for the very late reply
So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?
I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc
Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.
Muito bonito este trabalho. Parabéns!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks
Hi! What kind of coating do you recommend in order to achieve a more matte finish?
Same finish as I used in the video. Just make sure it is a matte finish version. This was semigloss I believe.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 ❤
Beautiful technique, I can't wait to play around with it!
Vicky Anderson thanks
After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?
Absolutely as long as the linseed is completely cured.
STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .
MARTIN MATHEE yep been around a long time!
If you were doing this for outside siding, do you need to only use cedar?
Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.
Does this process makes more water or weather proof
Yep! That is the point. Rather than use harsh toxic chemicals. You char heavily & then seal with a natural tongue. And it’s more weather, fire & insect proof!
So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?
Absolutely! So sorry about the fire!
Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look.
Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!
38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted
Have you done a heavy cracked piece with an epoxy top. Was thinking of doing that for a bar top?
Richard Williams i am working on that. But haven’t yet
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 just finished making one
Richard Williams I just posted a video with colored epoxy resin on top for a trial piece before I go full scale. Check it out!
Thanks for the video! It is very inspiring. Now I want to do such table myself. Very cool look, I like it 😃
Yana Solare thanks. Have fun
I adore this look and also value the natural wood feel of Danish oil. I’m wondering about doing this on some fir plywood. I want a beautiful, deeply crackled shou sugi panel to hang as an art piece in a high traffic area (nothing too delicate!). If you’ve done any of this on plywood, or think it’s a bad idea, I’d love to know. Wonderful video. Thank you!!
I have tried it on a piece. But it tends to release the glue holding it together.
Hi, when do you spray the water to prevent warping the wood?
Prior and after burning. And then burn both sides helps as well.
Hello love the channel, I’m wonder how well this process would do on fresh cut log wood which has not been in a kiln? Thoughts
It might bow or twist or split if there green (aka freshly cut) if air dried for at minimum a year or so they should be much less likely to do that.
How durable is the crackle once it’s sealed? Could it be used as decking or would it just dust away?
Not for standing walking on. But for railings & posts it would be fine.
Is it strong finish, is it durable or easy to damage/scratch? Would like the review of finish product
Very durable finish when applied according to the directions.
Since we are charring so much, would any other wood work too?
Indeed. Check out my latest video on shousugiban aka yakisugi. I show using various woods. Cedar works best for the alligator charr though. And especially if used outdoors for protection from bugs, weather and rot
Hi there, i would like to make a Shou Sugi Ban cutting board like these boards, how would you finish them, or wouldn´t you treat them at all in the end? Thank you for your inspirations.
Josef Keilhammer thanks for the question. While a board with treatment would look fantastic. It definitely wouldn’t work. This technique makes the surface of the wood soft and very easy to cut. The crackle especially would just flake when cut on. It’s meant for protection & looks not for use.
Thx for the answer, i just saw a guy on a Channel who uses burnt boards as cutting boards, that is why i was asking
Do you have to reapply the oil? If so how often?
Not very often at all. This scrap example sat around my shop for a couple years before I finally threw it away and I mean it was kicked around and thrown around with minimal damage.
Have you tried this deep char technique on regular pine boards? Also, if this was done on a couch would the char rub off when people touched it?
Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.
How’s the durability on this finish over the loose charred wood now that it’s been a while?
It’s been sitting in my shop since i made it and the only issue is the resin got scuffed from hitting the floor. All good otherwise.
Hiya, my home burnt down and I have a LOT of heavily charred still semi-decent planks.
I'm thinking of using them for the outside of the rebuild?
Absolutely! Go for it. Great sentimental repurpose!
Did it work? The ash didn't destroy?
Иван Каминский yes it worked. I used cedar here. It came out great. I also hist posted a video with the same process but sealed with a colored epoxy resin. Check itnout
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks. Have signed up on your channel. I'm going to do a fence in this technology
I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you
Boiled linseed oil or tongue oil.
@Love Of The Grain Workshop thank you I'll give it a try great content keep it coming 👍
Love this. What could I do with this technique? Furniture?
Rodrigo Mattos absolutely
I’m gonna try
@@thedynamiteagency any furniture why not but especially outside stuff as the original reason to do this technique was for the weatherproofing ability. There is a reason why you find old camp fires years later, the char is resistance to water, insects and rot and protects the wood within just like the thin layer of aluminum oxide protects aluminum.
If I not wrong burning just the side of the stud facing outside of the wall, rigth?
Juan Paredes yes and no! If using as fencing you would want to burn all the way around. For siding, just the outside needs to be charred.
Hey thanks I was wondering how people make heavily burnt wood. I just wonder how much it stains your hands (or does it? ) after you treated the wood
If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.
"I don't like the plastic coating, so now I'm going with a mixture of 50% polyurethane"? Why not pure boiled linseed oil and get rid of the plastic altogether? I'd prefer completely natural, and something that's not foreign to where I'm from.
Why not applying oil while the wood is still hot, as I've seen some do? And finally - how little oil can you get away with applying while still ensuringto protect the integrity of the wood and not risking getting soot stains on whatever comes into contact with it?
By the way, the crackled surface structure that you managed to produce is the best I've seen so far. Well done!
And just to clarify, if it isn't obvious - I have no experience with this area at all. I'm just letting my thoughts out to remedy my ignorance and to satisfy my curiousness :)
Sure you could absolutely use a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil etc. I haven’t tried applying while still hot. Thanks
when are you spraying water? are you spraying on unburned wood or on the char during the burning?
You can do both to help prevent warping
great work!! QUESTION: during usage, wont be your hand/arm/clothes/etc black by touching it? so the soot of burned woods are not there anymore after oiling?
Yes it can if you do not correctly coat it with the right mixture. I brush on probably around 5-6 very heavy coats so it could absorb into the wood. Let it cure and then reapplied a few more after that. That way it sealed the pores first. And then sealed over top of the wood as well so it didn’t rub off. Extreme pressure from dropping something might have damaged it but not normal use.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 I built some western red cedar deck chairs and I'm wondering with the right finish if this technique will work so that people can actually sit in the chairs. Thanks for the video!
I bet if you made a solid cedar table like this but with a two-part epoxy coat it would really POP really nice but I honestly didn't think that it would turn out as good as it did great job
Yes!!!! Thanks so much!
hello sr you dont brush it ? and you drop the water after burn it ? i like that finish that finish is what i im looking for !}
leopetar jk I brushed the finish on in this video. I typically spray it on now. And I use a pump sprayer for watering it down to cool it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 thanks man !!!
leopetar jk anytime! Be sure to check out my latest Shousugiban video!
Wow!
Thanks
did you not brush out the charcoal?
No not on this example. It’s done more of the traditional Yakisugi style. Leaving the char and then sealing withnoil.
So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!
I made a sort of danish oil by combining Tung Oil & Poly. I believe. Though it’s been a while since
Can this be done with pine wood, or harder would is best?
Yes you can use pine.
Rodrigo Mattos yes pine , spruce both work great. I have another video showing it done on pine
Love Of The Grain Workshop can you please give link? I cannot find it.
Rodrigo Mattos th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html
WAIT OK so great video, but so like how do I make the cliffs and valleys more apparent. I'm imagining the thing covered in epoxy and when you look close it's a whole new charcoal world
You would have to see my other videos about scrubbing the piece. If you want the crackle to show more prominent you would brush coat the resin rather than pour.
nice! but how did you join the planks together?
Chulho Chang from underneath I glued and screwed some 1” strips.
Sorry what exactly oil you put at the end for coating!?
It’s called Danish oil. You can buy it premixed or mix it yourself with what I mentioned in the video
If you only give it a light char, does it still protect the wood from wrought?
Thomas Chung yes. It doesn’t need to be crackled heavy to be beneficial. But does need to be burnt black lightly.
In order to achieve the long term preservation properties this process is traditionally used for you would need to go well beyond the surface. Typically in Japan when this process is used they will burn three boards at a time making a chimney and igniting a piece of paper at the bottom end of the chimney. Depending on the length and thickness of the boards, it will burn for 5 minutes or more. Deeply Charing over half of the thickness of the board in order to ensure the longevity of the process. This process in the video is used for more visual appeal than rot resistance. It looks fantastic I think. Well done
If I have some pine tongue and groove, some of which I’ve already stained and applied poly to, could I apply this method? Or is it too late? I’ve also got a few boards that are warped, but not stained. Could I spray with water and try this technique? All of my boards were also all sanded, as I was going to stain and poly all of them for a wall application. Thank you for any advice!
Unfortunately I would think it needs to be clean wood prior. Poly would affect how it comes out. Probably wouldn’t hurt to try.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 okay, thank you! I still might sand those with poly, then try to burn. Nothing to lose!
I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!
Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.
You rock man!!!!. Thank you!!!.
Thanks
Can I do this to an eucalyptus slab?
Alonso Lopez not sure. I’ve never used eucalyptus
Can you get this same effect with pine?
Absolutely! Check out my other video where I do it on pine. th-cam.com/video/qfdV031I_F0/w-d-xo.html
Hi, i want to make a board for food (not to cut on it just to put the food on for presentation) and i want to make a board with deep char. So i need your advice, which coat i should use? I want to make a border strong enought to keep texture of chara nd of course it must be natural. I would be very thankful for advice.
Taras Ivantsio man that’s tough. Any sealer you use to hold charr in place is not natural. Food grade oil like mineral oil is what I use on serving boards. But that does not harden. I would suggest doing a nice flood coat of epoxy resin. Clear table top type. I recommend Incredible Solutions brand. It is easy 1:1 mix and is a great price. It will harden and seal it perfectly and then you can serve food on it. But do not cut on it.
@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks for very quick answer! I will do as you wrote, but last question, after burning wood till deep char, do i need to clean it in some way? or just wait until it become cold and use epoxy?
Taras Ivantsio nope. Just let it cool and pour the epoxy
4:37 minutes, what do you apply to the burnt area, what is the benefit?
they're spraying with water to prevent warping
Yep water
hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅
On this one it is a danish oil. Just a combination of linseed or tongue oil and polyurethane.
How do you keep it from cupping? and if it does whats your remedy to straighten it?
MITCH OFF THE FENCE on thicker pieces there shouldn’t be much cupping if any. Especially using a plumbers torch like this one. On large projects with a weed-garden torch it gets much hotter and there is more of a chance of cupping. But I’ve done large doors and not had enough cupping that it needed repairing.
Supposedly if it cups you can burn the other side to uncup it
@@cuchanu Someone else recommended that to me and also light sprays of water, seems to work
Hi, I’m currently trying to make some seating using barrel staves, because they have been used for the storage of whiskey, they are charred in a similar way to the wood I your vid. I have wire brushed and sanded most of the loose flakes and dust away, and I’m looking for a treatment to stabilise the remaining surface. I clearly don’t want the charring to come off on our clothes (not bothered about my own, but if it comes off on my wife’s clothes I’m dead). do you think this mixture would do the job? And is there any chance of you doing a short video, showing how robust this finish is, once it has cured?
Oh and thanks for the videos, they are great. Haters are always gonna hate.
Thanks so much. I have used barrel staves for the exact same thing. I use Minwax Polycrylic as it builds up on the surface and once filly cured (about a week) it lasts a long time. Three coats minimum.
I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?
Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.
I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?
Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.