Amazon links of various products used in the video for both USA and Canada: USA Large propane torch: amzn.to/3jnAx1V Small propane torch: amzn.to/2Lu4JvK Flint striker: amzn.to/3a01GoF Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3tA0D6f Brass wire brush: amzn.to/2MJM1ka Stainless steel bowl: amzn.to/3rsX5kv Heat resistant gloves: amzn.to/2Lx7kFi Canada Large propane torch: amzn.to/3ruKa1G Small propane torch: amzn.to/3jnkFMV Flint striker: amzn.to/3cMps98 Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3pV8t8o Brass wire brush: amzn.to/36P0jH6 Stainless steel bowl: amzn.to/3cRKjIf Heat resistant gloves: amzn.to/39VKRuJ
I love it when the old methods of getting the job done work better than inferior expensive store-bought solutions that require more time and energy. Thank you for the education and your easy to understand delivery of the methods! 5x ⭐️
Dude! I’ve been searching for a simple DIY that goes from start to final treatment and wondering about pressure treated as well. Thanks so much! Awesome video and I truly appreciate the name of the treatment. My friends and I have just been saying “you know that burnt kinda looking stuff.” Awesome job on the deck too!
I'm a retired builder and for years any wood that I placed outside in the weather I coated the flats of decks and all the vertical underpinnings with HENRY"S lap cement. Applied liberally it prevents the water from penetrating. I have revisited wood installed in this manner that has been in place for more than 30 years and still looks great. Just my thoughts.
I reccomend scraping or sanding off the char so the oil can penetrate better. If u dont u just get a ashy oily mess. I also like to add a lil tung oil to the blo. About a third of 50 50 and it makes it look nicer than just blo on its own. I do this to all my axes and anything wood its it works great
I think I am gong to try this on my trailer deck boards. I will likely skip the linseed oil and do the half diesel half used motor oil stain mix applied after burning. Nice looking deck sir!
Hello- I love this! However can I do the same process on PT wood deck boards AFTER the wood has been exposed to elements for 6 months. I just finished the decking so maybe burn n seal in November /December in Mass. Our seasons are changing n what is temperarure range that this would be good to do. Thank you kindly Donna B
I have 30mm boards that are 4.8m long and 125mm wide. They’re typical for the UK consumer but I really want to make mine POP. I have just found some soft wood deck boards with a smooth face on one side and a machined non slip style groove on the other, can this process be applied to this product? Thanks great content btw 😊
I quite like the brighter shade of the finished product. I understand that by application of the linseed oil the shade gets darker overtime. Is it possible to apply different type of oil so that the brighter tint is still preserved?
Thanks for the information. quick question. When you brush off the charcoal with the brush, aren't you also removing the protection to the wood? As an extreme example if you brush it off too much then the wood is exposed again, correct ? Or does the burning process actually affects the wood deeper than the burnt surface? Thank you in advance for your time
No problem! Using the brush does clean the protective charing off to an extent, but it would wear off otherwise with foot traffic. I did an experiment with a wood platform, not sure if you've seen that video. The burning does help remove moisture content from the wood so it makes a great base for the oil soaking in.
I am looking to use Japanese cedar for a deck that is exposed to a lot of sun for the entire year. Any thoughts if this treatment is helpful to maintain against drying out? Also, how does this treatment stand up in this sunny situation in terms of color ? Do you need to re-apply this oil mixture every year ? Thanks
How far can you go with removing the char? Could you go almost back to the starting wood colour ? If you were making something, say a table, would you think make table then burn, cut all parts then burn then assemble ? Really clear and useful video looking foe alternatives to chemicals for outdoor softwood.
Great video. Just two questions: Once the linseed oil is cured, 1. Are the boards slippery with water on them and 2. Will your bare feet get " blackened"? Thanks.
I like how it lightens up after a couple weeks! Does the wood have to be outdoors to finish up like that? I have been planning to use this technique on wood that I want to use indoors and want to have it laying around on the floor until then. Great video!
Great video ... clear and no awful music! Was your whole deck made of spruce? What size were the deck boards? Lastly, could you please say what kind of torch you were using and what it was attached to? Thanks!
Thank you! Yep the whole deck is made from spruce and the deck boards are 2x6. They have various names but nothing really specific. Can be referred to as a large propane torch, propane torch kit, inferno propane torch, weed torch, etc.
Cool vid. Informative, quick, no bs, jus how i like it. I'm currently researching wood burning as a technique for preserving it, and have a question regarding finishing it. I wonder if pouring molten beeswax on a recently burnt board that's still hot would make it very resistant to rain as bees wax beads up the droplets and let's them slide. What do you think?
@@homesforbeginners I love the look of this deck. How does it hold up compared to pressure treated decks? In my country everyone builds decks with that ugly pressure treated wood, ugly when new and even uglier after a few years in my opinion, which is why I'm curious of other methods like this
I know a little having framed for 30+ yrs. and I believe this is the way to go . I'd love to see a yearly update and see how this method holds out. Shou Sugi Ban has been used to preserve forever but I'd still like to actually see for myself .
I’ve heard from other sources on TH-cam that you have to char the boards multiple times and also use the brush multiple times. Why did you only char the boards once? Does it make a difference in the weather resistance if the boards are Charred several times?
No need to char it several times. Charing it and removing the char, then doing it over again would just keep removing layers off the wood. The only benefit I can think of is if someone was using wood with a higher moisture concentration.
Definitely agree on the moisture content. It’s interesting to see it wick through the char if the board isn’t dry to start. Also interesting to see the increased treatment time for wetter wood. We even let ours sit out in 90 degree sunshine to prewarm before treatment.
I plan on replacing my deck boards next spring. I dont have any shade so my deck gets extremely hot in the summer. How are boards on a hot summer day? just curious and thanks
This deck is actually exposed directly to the sun for most of the day. It was stained previously on the other portion, we haven't noticed a difference.
We are replacing our decking and did experiments with various samples. Huge difference between metal, plastics, composites, and real wood, though very little between different types of wood. Oddly, this is an aspect that rarely seems discussed, but we agree with you it’s very important. I don’t think you’ll find shou sugi being warmer than other wood. We went with a tropical hardwood because we found enough at a good price and very little more than less durable softwoods. We are going to use the treatment for other parts of the deck.
Hi, thanks for the good demonstration. I like to buy a couple of Garden Trellis Panels and do this process, also I think I may do this process to my wooden fence, as it only last a few years before it starts rod and come down. Will the preserved wood be ok to do this burning process and putting the oil mixture, as I don't have time to get raw wood and make these panel and fences, and the purchased ones will all be painted with preserver?
No problem :) The biggest issue with doing this on something which is already built, you won't necessarily get all the surfaces or it maybe hard to get into any tight areas with a flame. A handheld torch could be used on the hard to reach areas. Also make sure the wood wasn't pretreated such as pressure treated, otherwise you expose yourself to hazardous fumes. But other than that, it's a great way of preserving the wood. We've noticed a huge difference in how the wood ages. Only now the wood is developing small cracks as it shrinks with age. Before with stain, the wood would already start cracking in a few months.
I’m noticing the video playing while returning to see some responses. One suggestion on a minor tweak I would have is to walk/have the flame advance towards the untreated wood. I found that this sort of preheats the untreated wood making it a bit easier to finish. We also revisited the treatment a day later to further treat areas that continued to release moisture from our green lumber. Finally, my wife was scrubbing the char off boards as I proceeded with the next charring. It seemed to be never ending. An alternative that I found both effective and dangerous was cleaning the surface with a pressure washer. The dangerous part is that you can easily remove even hard hard material with high pressure water. The trick is to keep the nozzle close enough to clean but not so close as to remove the beneficial treated wood. Definitely requires a steady hand/walking.
Elizabeth - The deck is existing but damaged so we’re using the treatment on replacement boards before being attached. The power of the pressure washer is related to how close the nozzle is to whatever is being washed. A few feet away our puppy is basking in a cooling mist. A few inches away and it’s chewing up most anything in its path. It can be tricky but also extremely effective with a steady hand.
The linseed oil would act as a protective coating. If you're referring to a clear coat, possibly but I haven't tried it. And with clear coat, it's not something which can have foot traffic either.
There are companies that produce material with the char and a clear protective coating but it’s unlikely that you would be able to DIY. I don’t believe the products they make with the char are decking either. The material is just not structural enough to withstand the wear. The Build Show with Matt Reisinger (?) has a video on it.
Great technique and explanation! QUESTION: After completing this process as you’ve shown, does the oil or charring get on your shoes or clothes as you walk or sit on the deck? Or is this finish technique pretty stable? We’re thinking of following your technique on the cedar roof top deck boards of our school bus conversion to tiny home on wheels and are concerned that either the spot may get on our clothes after completed OR that soot might run down our Skoolie when it rains. What do you think? Thanks again for an excellent video! - Brian + Erin
Thank you! Most of the charring should be cleaning off, so you won't have any issues of it getting on your shoes/clothing and no wear spots will be shown. I actually have a new tutorial coming out in a couple weeks that has the deck in the shots, you'll be able to get a good view of how it's holding up. As for the oil, make sure it dries before walking on it. One dried, there won't be any residue. As for any water runoff residue, we only have grass and dirt around the deck so unfortunately I am unsure how much runoff residue there is. If any, I wouldn't think there's much. Being that nothing gets on our clothing, skin, or shoes, I think you'll be good.
We used green wood because that was all that was available. We also left it in the sun for some air drying. Easy to see the difference between the wetter and drier wood, though also kinda fun to visually chase the moisture out of the wood in advance of the flame. We did apply the flame in the opposite direction shown in the video. This allows the hot air blowing in front of the flame to preheat/predry the wood prior to charring.
I'm thinking to do same for my floor in the house. The main problem is that I believe the wood is treated. I'm planning to use a bug exhaust fan 560W to get all fumes out. Would it be ok if I cover using epoxy instead of oil? I just wanna make it more durable.
@@Axecapoeiracomoxvalley I suspect it is treated. Visually it looks like ordinary wood. Right now thet selling cyan looking wood for building houses in Bunnings and other places.
The easiest way to gap your boards is to install every 4th-6th, using your straightest boards, then backfilling. This way the only force you ever need is shims, and you will never get out of square or end up with a half board too much or too little coverage
Yes I was going to try to do this on my mothers deck due to the pandemic at this moment getting the wood is very hard what type of wood did you use on the top of the deck was at cedar or pine
Yes you can certainly use denatured alcohol, it would be the same process like turpentine. Heat up the oil first and then add it after. The smell with the turpentine is very strong and does last a couple weeks unfortunately.
@@homesforbeginners I liked your video a lot. I want to try this technique for my facade but leaving the charcoal layer. The problem is that it stains and everybody told me linseed oil is not a good idea , specially because repeating the treatment every year on a facade is a lot of work and because it keeps staining. Do you know any other product that can be used?
Erika - There are companies that make thermally modified siding with a variety of finishes. I think you would be very challenged to DIY the process leaving the char intact.
You can do one side. It should be used anywhere the wood is exposed to the weather, so just the one side would need the treatment for a cabin. Be really careful with the burning so that you don’t catch the whole cabin on fire. Maybe use a non combustible board like a Hardi board to stop any spread at the top and then work your way down. Fire will want to climb the wall. Be sure to have a ready supply of water and go slow.
A thought just occurred to me. A common recommendation is to test a sample of wood before treating the wood you want to use. The modern method of treating the wood is laying flat and using a propane flame, but the traditional method is connect three boards into a triangular shape and let the fire climb from the bottom. It would probably be a good idea to mock up a wall similar to your cabin but clearly separated from anything else that is combustible. See how the fire behaves.
John gave some excellent tips. Yes you can use this to treat logs, just be extremely careful not to start a fire. For areas you want to protect, a piece of steel can also be used, but have a thick glove or pliers to move it around as to not burn yourself. I would also recommend doing this earlier in the day, once you're done you'll still have daylight to monitor the burned area so it doesn't cause any problems at night.
Linseed oil is not ideal for surfaces that will be under continous stress, such as porch floors that will be stepped on regularly. You will lose its protective coat fast. Great video and channel, anyway, good tips. Thanks for sharing.
I made this platform which is in direct contact with the ground, one year later and there's no signs of rot th-cam.com/video/J12lhJ-xDFM/w-d-xo.html Untreated wood was also used here.
I just burned a load of spruce for a Tomato Box for my balcony. I had a lot of 3 X 6 left overs from a boardwalk we built for the Port Authority. My buddy split the three (2 3/8) nominal into 1 1/4 which I jointed and put through my planer 1 1/8” The box on legs is a tongue and groove / mortise and tenon Stickley Design I watched your video right through. It turned it really nice. Loved the look. I think I’ve found a finish I like. Dirty work tho LoL I will send you a pic of the box if your interested .
Sounds like an awesome project! I'd really like to see a pic, I've added my TH-cam video to the about section on my channel homepage. Would it be okay if I share the photo on my TH-cam channel as well?
looks amazing. i recently got pressure treated wood, then painted it the same colour you have. if only i had known then. about to start on a small gazebo tho. untreated wood, then use this technique. have you tried adding colour to it? different stains. thanks.
Thank you so much! I haven't tried adding a color, but have heard it is possible. Unfortunately in Canada we don't have proper oil based stains due to environmental regulations, so it's not something I'll be able to experiment with unless I could find a dying method for the linseed oil or something similar.
@@homesforbeginners i think any dye will do, then protect it for outdoors. not linseed, but an outdoor seal :) but a lot of confusing info out there :)
how come after just a month your wood lost so much of its black charred color? all the shou sugi ban huts I have seen typically remained their deep darkness
I thought Shou Sugi Ban was supposed to be a “once and done” treatment making the lengthy initial treatment worth the effort. But this requires YEARLY reapplication of the linseed oil mixture? And the cost ends up the same as traditional stain... Linseed oil is very expensive in some parts of North America - more than a marine grade stain. Your decking looks great but now I’m not sure it’s worth the extra cost / effort compared to a wood composite.
A yearly treatment of oil isn't mandatory, it's just a preventative maintenance practice. As the wood becomes more saturated with oil after multiple applications, the more resistant it'll be to the weather and moisture. The oil when mixed with turpentine does go a long ways, less is required than compared to a stain. I'm in Canada, so many things are more expensive than compared to the US.
Oils can actually cause mould. I’m not sure if the charred method prevents mould or not. I assume the hat on a flat surface where water pools, mould would grow more easily on any surface. I live on Vancouver island so we are constantly battling wet and moist winter mild growth on our cedar deck. I have read that stains and oils can make this worse so was hoping to char my deck and avoid it. Not sure how it will work. I do believe there are different degrees of torching and some people actually burn the wood quite deep.
You can, only if the wood is straight. The problem is with the crooks, kinks, and bows, gaps are left between the boards and the flames can make it's way through, causing over burned areas.
Amazon links of various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA
Large propane torch: amzn.to/3jnAx1V
Small propane torch: amzn.to/2Lu4JvK
Flint striker: amzn.to/3a01GoF
Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3tA0D6f
Brass wire brush: amzn.to/2MJM1ka
Stainless steel bowl: amzn.to/3rsX5kv
Heat resistant gloves: amzn.to/2Lx7kFi
Canada
Large propane torch: amzn.to/3ruKa1G
Small propane torch: amzn.to/3jnkFMV
Flint striker: amzn.to/3cMps98
Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3pV8t8o
Brass wire brush: amzn.to/36P0jH6
Stainless steel bowl: amzn.to/3cRKjIf
Heat resistant gloves: amzn.to/39VKRuJ
Good video. Quick, to the point and no pounding rock music drowning out the narration. Thx.
Glad you liked it and thank you :)
I love it when the old methods of getting the job done work better than inferior expensive store-bought solutions that require more time and energy.
Thank you for the education and your easy to understand delivery of the methods! 5x ⭐️
Dude! I’ve been searching for a simple DIY that goes from start to final treatment and wondering about pressure treated as well. Thanks so much! Awesome video and I truly appreciate the name of the treatment. My friends and I have just been saying “you know that burnt kinda looking stuff.” Awesome job on the deck too!
Thank you so much for the kind words and feedback :)
I'm a retired builder and for years any wood that I placed outside in the weather I coated the flats of decks and all the vertical underpinnings with HENRY"S lap cement. Applied liberally it prevents the water from penetrating. I have revisited wood installed in this manner that has been in place for more than 30 years and still looks great. Just my thoughts.
Just googled henrys at no wonder it laated forever. Looks like tar or ashpalt-like compounds. Laata forever but looks like crap! 😊
Does it prevent mould?
I reccomend scraping or sanding off the char so the oil can penetrate better. If u dont u just get a ashy oily mess. I also like to add a lil tung oil to the blo. About a third of 50 50 and it makes it look nicer than just blo on its own. I do this to all my axes and anything wood its it works great
The char was cleaned off using a wire brush and the oil soaks in very well.
I think I am gong to try this on my trailer deck boards. I will likely skip the linseed oil and do the half diesel half used motor oil stain mix applied after burning. Nice looking deck sir!
Well done! I appreciate the Timmy's cup for measuring the oil :)
Thank you! Haha, old cups work pretty good for stuff like this.
Can you put a stain into the linseed oil for a different look? Thinking of Red Color!
Never seen it on decking boards. Cool results!
Thank you!
Hello- I love this! However can I do the same process on PT wood deck boards AFTER the wood has been exposed to elements for 6 months. I just finished the decking so maybe burn n seal in November /December in Mass. Our seasons are changing n what is temperarure range that this would be good to do. Thank you kindly
Donna B
What about an old deck with pressure treated wood will this technique work on it?
Do you know if the technique can be used in eucalyptus and pine wood?
Do u get mould in winter? We have very wet winters and my issue is def mould. I’d love to know if this process prevents mould
I have 30mm boards that are 4.8m long and 125mm wide. They’re typical for the UK consumer but I really want to make mine POP. I have just found some soft wood deck boards with a smooth face on one side and a machined non slip style groove on the other, can this process be applied to this product? Thanks great content btw 😊
I quite like the brighter shade of the finished product. I understand that by application of the linseed oil the shade gets darker overtime. Is it possible to apply different type of oil so that the brighter tint is still preserved?
I haven't tried other oils, but perhaps there are other options which you can experiment with.
Boiled linseed oil + wax + mineral spirits, is what I use. Park Service recipe.
I really love that finished look
Thank you!
does the wood have to be wire bushed, I am using it for building a deck?
Thanks for the information. quick question. When you brush off the charcoal with the brush, aren't you also removing the protection to the wood? As an extreme example if you brush it off too much then the wood is exposed again, correct ? Or does the burning process actually affects the wood deeper than the burnt surface? Thank you in advance for your time
No problem! Using the brush does clean the protective charing off to an extent, but it would wear off otherwise with foot traffic. I did an experiment with a wood platform, not sure if you've seen that video. The burning does help remove moisture content from the wood so it makes a great base for the oil soaking in.
Thank you. I will definitely try it ASAP.
Good job. Check out the same process but using Pine Tar to coat burnt wood.
Thank you and I'll definitely have to check that out!
I am looking to use Japanese cedar for a deck that is exposed to a lot of sun for the entire year. Any thoughts if this treatment is helpful to maintain against drying out? Also, how does this treatment stand up in this sunny situation in terms of color ? Do you need to re-apply this oil mixture every year ? Thanks
How far can you go with removing the char? Could you go almost back to the starting wood colour ?
If you were making something, say a table, would you think make table then burn, cut all parts then burn then assemble ?
Really clear and useful video looking foe alternatives to chemicals for outdoor softwood.
I use a Restorer tool to take all the *loose* char off. You can burn components or burn everything.
How did the deck hold up now that a few years has past?
hoping you get a reply! wondering the same myself
Great video. Just two questions: Once the linseed oil is cured, 1. Are the boards slippery with water on them and 2. Will your bare feet get " blackened"? Thanks.
old car oil - best ever result and ... free of charge oil ;o). thanx for the video - helpful.
No problem, happy to help!
Car oil on a deck? Fence maybe but I want to walk on my deck with bare feet and know my dogs are safe to walk there too! Lol
I like how it lightens up after a couple weeks! Does the wood have to be outdoors to finish up like that? I have been planning to use this technique on wood that I want to use indoors and want to have it laying around on the floor until then. Great video!
Thanks for the great video. Question: Can you do this with tongue and groove pine boards? Or will the tongue get messed up?
You're welcome. You can, but you need to be extremely careful on the thinner edges as they can burn up fairly easily.
Nice vid. I ve been told to just warm and not to boil the oil mix.
Great video ... clear and no awful music! Was your whole deck made of spruce? What size were the deck boards? Lastly, could you please say what kind of torch you were using and what it was attached to? Thanks!
Thank you! Yep the whole deck is made from spruce and the deck boards are 2x6. They have various names but nothing really specific. Can be referred to as a large propane torch, propane torch kit, inferno propane torch, weed torch, etc.
Cool vid. Informative, quick, no bs, jus how i like it.
I'm currently researching wood burning as a technique for preserving it, and have a question regarding finishing it. I wonder if pouring molten beeswax on a recently burnt board that's still hot would make it very resistant to rain as bees wax beads up the droplets and let's them slide. What do you think?
I did this method 2 years ago but now the boards are slippery when wet and a slight green tinge. How should I remedy this? Thanks!
What brand of screw impactor are you using?
How many square foot will a propane tank cover?
A lot more work than I thought
Thank you for the good video, any reason for not burn treat the frame underneath the deck?
No problem! The frame was done with pressure treated and we decided to do the Shou Sugi Ban finish after.
@@homesforbeginners I love the look of this deck. How does it hold up compared to pressure treated decks? In my country everyone builds decks with that ugly pressure treated wood, ugly when new and even uglier after a few years in my opinion, which is why I'm curious of other methods like this
I know a little having framed for 30+ yrs. and I believe this is the way to go . I'd love to see a yearly update and see how this method holds out. Shou Sugi Ban has been used to preserve forever but I'd still like to actually see for myself .
I can definitely do an update this upcoming summer. It has been shown in my wheelbarrow assembly video as well.
@@homesforbeginners how’s it lookin ✌️
Thanks for the video! Informative🌝
No problem!
I’ve heard from other sources on TH-cam that you have to char the boards multiple times and also use the brush multiple times. Why did you only char the boards once? Does it make a difference in the weather resistance if the boards are Charred several times?
No need to char it several times. Charing it and removing the char, then doing it over again would just keep removing layers off the wood. The only benefit I can think of is if someone was using wood with a higher moisture concentration.
Definitely agree on the moisture content. It’s interesting to see it wick through the char if the board isn’t dry to start. Also interesting to see the increased treatment time for wetter wood. We even let ours sit out in 90 degree sunshine to prewarm before treatment.
I plan on replacing my deck boards next spring. I dont have any shade so my deck gets extremely hot in the summer.
How are boards on a hot summer day? just curious
and thanks
This deck is actually exposed directly to the sun for most of the day. It was stained previously on the other portion, we haven't noticed a difference.
We are replacing our decking and did experiments with various samples. Huge difference between metal, plastics, composites, and real wood, though very little between different types of wood. Oddly, this is an aspect that rarely seems discussed, but we agree with you it’s very important. I don’t think you’ll find shou sugi being warmer than other wood. We went with a tropical hardwood because we found enough at a good price and very little more than less durable softwoods. We are going to use the treatment for other parts of the deck.
Thanks for the video. Very well done.
Thank you!
Hi, thanks for the good demonstration.
I like to buy a couple of Garden Trellis Panels and do this process, also I think I may do this process to my wooden fence, as it only last a few years before it starts rod and come down. Will the preserved wood be ok to do this burning process and putting the oil mixture, as I don't have time to get raw wood and make these panel and fences, and the purchased ones will all be painted with preserver?
No problem :) The biggest issue with doing this on something which is already built, you won't necessarily get all the surfaces or it maybe hard to get into any tight areas with a flame. A handheld torch could be used on the hard to reach areas. Also make sure the wood wasn't pretreated such as pressure treated, otherwise you expose yourself to hazardous fumes. But other than that, it's a great way of preserving the wood. We've noticed a huge difference in how the wood ages. Only now the wood is developing small cracks as it shrinks with age. Before with stain, the wood would already start cracking in a few months.
Does the burning make the wood termite resistant? Probably not?
It does help with providing some resistance against insects in general.
I’m noticing the video playing while returning to see some responses. One suggestion on a minor tweak I would have is to walk/have the flame advance towards the untreated wood. I found that this sort of preheats the untreated wood making it a bit easier to finish.
We also revisited the treatment a day later to further treat areas that continued to release moisture from our green lumber.
Finally, my wife was scrubbing the char off boards as I proceeded with the next charring. It seemed to be never ending. An alternative that I found both effective and dangerous was cleaning the surface with a pressure washer. The dangerous part is that you can easily remove even hard hard material with high pressure water. The trick is to keep the nozzle close enough to clean but not so close as to remove the beneficial treated wood. Definitely requires a steady hand/walking.
Did you use the treatment on existing deck or stairs or boards to be used on a deck? I agree power washing can be too strong.
Elizabeth - The deck is existing but damaged so we’re using the treatment on replacement boards before being attached. The power of the pressure washer is related to how close the nozzle is to whatever is being washed. A few feet away our puppy is basking in a cooling mist. A few inches away and it’s chewing up most anything in its path. It can be tricky but also extremely effective with a steady hand.
can you apply a protective finish directly on the charred wood without sanding off loose char?
The linseed oil would act as a protective coating. If you're referring to a clear coat, possibly but I haven't tried it. And with clear coat, it's not something which can have foot traffic either.
There are companies that produce material with the char and a clear protective coating but it’s unlikely that you would be able to DIY. I don’t believe the products they make with the char are decking either. The material is just not structural enough to withstand the wear. The Build Show with Matt Reisinger (?) has a video on it.
Great content. I am using this on planters.
Great technique and explanation! QUESTION: After completing this process as you’ve shown, does the oil or charring get on your shoes or clothes as you walk or sit on the deck? Or is this finish technique pretty stable?
We’re thinking of following your technique on the cedar roof top deck boards of our school bus conversion to tiny home on wheels and are concerned that either the spot may get on our clothes after completed OR that soot might run down our Skoolie when it rains. What do you think?
Thanks again for an excellent video!
- Brian + Erin
Thank you! Most of the charring should be cleaning off, so you won't have any issues of it getting on your shoes/clothing and no wear spots will be shown. I actually have a new tutorial coming out in a couple weeks that has the deck in the shots, you'll be able to get a good view of how it's holding up. As for the oil, make sure it dries before walking on it. One dried, there won't be any residue. As for any water runoff residue, we only have grass and dirt around the deck so unfortunately I am unsure how much runoff residue there is. If any, I wouldn't think there's much. Being that nothing gets on our clothing, skin, or shoes, I think you'll be good.
@@homesforbeginners awesome! Thanks for the response! We are following your channel & look forward to your next video!
No problem, happy I could help and thank you so much for the support too!
Can fresh sawn green lumber be used with shou sugi ban wood charring technique?
You can, but you'll notice more surface popping due to the fast evaporation of moisture in the wood.
We used green wood because that was all that was available. We also left it in the sun for some air drying. Easy to see the difference between the wetter and drier wood, though also kinda fun to visually chase the moisture out of the wood in advance of the flame. We did apply the flame in the opposite direction shown in the video. This allows the hot air blowing in front of the flame to preheat/predry the wood prior to charring.
Nice work!
I'm thinking to do same for my floor in the house. The main problem is that I believe the wood is treated. I'm planning to use a bug exhaust fan 560W to get all fumes out. Would it be ok if I cover using epoxy instead of oil? I just wanna make it more durable.
You have treated wood inside your house? Eek. That’s scary. Toxic
@@Axecapoeiracomoxvalley I suspect it is treated. Visually it looks like ordinary wood. Right now thet selling cyan looking wood for building houses in Bunnings and other places.
The easiest way to gap your boards is to install every 4th-6th, using your straightest boards, then backfilling. This way the only force you ever need is shims, and you will never get out of square or end up with a half board too much or too little coverage
Yes I was going to try to do this on my mothers deck due to the pandemic at this moment getting the wood is very hard what type of wood did you use on the top of the deck was at cedar or pine
It's spruce.
Wonderful job
Nice job, good stuff!!
Thank you!
I am chemically sensitive. Is there any gentler alternative to turpentine in the mix? What about alcohol?
Yes you can certainly use denatured alcohol, it would be the same process like turpentine. Heat up the oil first and then add it after. The smell with the turpentine is very strong and does last a couple weeks unfortunately.
Excellent video and a good job, well done.
Appreciating the work here in London England 👍
Thank you very much!
@@homesforbeginners welcome
Is this your first go with Shou Sugi Ban? I'm wondering if the wood will eventually lose its brownish char color.
Nope, I've used it in the past too. You won't experience the wear marks like compared if you've left the full charcoal finish on.
@@homesforbeginners I liked your video a lot. I want to try this technique for my facade but leaving the charcoal layer. The problem is that it stains and everybody told me linseed oil is not a good idea , specially because repeating the treatment every year on a facade is a lot of work and because it keeps staining. Do you know any other product that can be used?
Erika - There are companies that make thermally modified siding with a variety of finishes. I think you would be very challenged to DIY the process leaving the char intact.
Very cool. Look amazing. Thanks for the video!
Thank you!
Cool video!
Thank you!
Nice work, wondering how’s looking after a year.
Check out this video, was done just recently and you can see how the deck is holding up th-cam.com/video/P4FqTtRwalY/w-d-xo.html
That’s Freakin Awesome Dude. Well the hell done.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Very nice.
Thank you!
6:50 what brand deck screws did you switch to?
Paulin from Home Depot. I'm not sure where you're from, I'm from Canada so the brands may vary based on the country.
@@homesforbeginners thanks bud, I'm down south in the states 😁👍
Can you just do one side? The reason I ask is because we have a just built a log cabin and considering doing this to just the exterior of the logs.
You can do one side. It should be used anywhere the wood is exposed to the weather, so just the one side would need the treatment for a cabin. Be really careful with the burning so that you don’t catch the whole cabin on fire. Maybe use a non combustible board like a Hardi board to stop any spread at the top and then work your way down. Fire will want to climb the wall. Be sure to have a ready supply of water and go slow.
@@johnlee7085 thank you so much for your response.
A thought just occurred to me. A common recommendation is to test a sample of wood before treating the wood you want to use. The modern method of treating the wood is laying flat and using a propane flame, but the traditional method is connect three boards into a triangular shape and let the fire climb from the bottom. It would probably be a good idea to mock up a wall similar to your cabin but clearly separated from anything else that is combustible. See how the fire behaves.
@@johnlee7085 ok. We will do that. Thank you!!
John gave some excellent tips. Yes you can use this to treat logs, just be extremely careful not to start a fire. For areas you want to protect, a piece of steel can also be used, but have a thick glove or pliers to move it around as to not burn yourself. I would also recommend doing this earlier in the day, once you're done you'll still have daylight to monitor the burned area so it doesn't cause any problems at night.
Linseed oil is not ideal for surfaces that will be under continous stress, such as porch floors that will be stepped on regularly. You will lose its protective coat fast. Great video and channel, anyway, good tips. Thanks for sharing.
Can I use epoxy in a similar situation? Or it is highly important to put the right amount of hardener so that it won't be tough like a glass?
Do you have any idea how this holds up when in contact with the ground?
I made this platform which is in direct contact with the ground, one year later and there's no signs of rot th-cam.com/video/J12lhJ-xDFM/w-d-xo.html Untreated wood was also used here.
@@homesforbeginners I'm about to do this for my floating deck. Any update 6months after the last comment? Appreciate it!
@@homesforbeginners also a canadian here and it took me awhile to find videos that's not in the southern states!
There are videos out there using this method in ground contact. It’s also been used for centuries though without video documentation.
Fantastic, thanks!
is that I could see after a few years to see how your patio has resisted scratches...
How can you be sure the wood has no chemicals?
Great video! Thanks for shring.
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words :)
I’m impressed. You taught me well.👌🏽❣️
Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed it :)
Hi, what would be lansing oil? Not a native speaker...
Linseed oil, also known as flaxseed oil, which is extracted from seeds from the flax plant.
Can you do pressure treated wood? Or bad idea?
It's a bad idea, the fumes can be harmful to your health.
colour matching deck screws*** may need to be special ordered. Or caps
Good video. Does it make the wood more insect resistant?
Thank you and yes it does.
How does it handle pollen?
Do you mean as in sticking to it? No problems at all, would be the same as a regular stain.
Thanks
No problem!
I just burned a load of spruce for a Tomato Box for my balcony.
I had a lot of 3 X 6 left overs from a boardwalk we built for the Port Authority.
My buddy split the three (2 3/8) nominal into 1 1/4 which I jointed and put through my planer 1 1/8”
The box on legs is a tongue and groove / mortise and tenon Stickley Design
I watched your video right through.
It turned it really nice. Loved the look. I think I’ve found a finish I like.
Dirty work tho LoL
I will send you a pic of the box if your interested .
Sounds like an awesome project! I'd really like to see a pic, I've added my TH-cam video to the about section on my channel homepage. Would it be okay if I share the photo on my TH-cam channel as well?
looks amazing. i recently got pressure treated wood, then painted it the same colour you have. if only i had known then. about to start on a small gazebo tho. untreated wood, then use this technique. have you tried adding colour to it? different stains. thanks.
Thank you so much! I haven't tried adding a color, but have heard it is possible. Unfortunately in Canada we don't have proper oil based stains due to environmental regulations, so it's not something I'll be able to experiment with unless I could find a dying method for the linseed oil or something similar.
@@homesforbeginners i think any dye will do, then protect it for outdoors. not linseed, but an outdoor seal :) but a lot of confusing info out there :)
There are a number of videos talking about adding color. Lots of options.
*I have seen someone on eBay that makes charred guitar cabinets.*
It leaves an awesome finish for that. I've seen some people using it on interior flooring too, then applying a lacquer.
Thinking of doing the same thing to my wooden fence….
If the burn makes the wood waterproof why seal it?
Resistant, not proof. The oil replaces the moisture content in the wood, preventing/resisting moisture penetration in the future.
Do we build then burn or burn first then make our build? Say, an outdoor wooden door.
👍🏼magnifico.
Thank you!
what kind of wood was that?
Spruce
excelent
Thank you! Don't forget to subscribe :)
What kind of wood did you use?
Spruce
Thank you so much. This is very helpful. Starting my boards tomorrow!
how come after just a month your wood lost so much of its black charred color? all the shou sugi ban huts I have seen typically remained their deep darkness
The sun bleaches it. After coat or two of linseed oil, the dark color comes back and stays.
I thought Shou Sugi Ban was supposed to be a “once and done” treatment making the lengthy initial treatment worth the effort. But this requires YEARLY reapplication of the linseed oil mixture? And the cost ends up the same as traditional stain... Linseed oil is very expensive in some parts of North America - more than a marine grade stain. Your decking looks great but now I’m not sure it’s worth the extra cost / effort compared to a wood composite.
A yearly treatment of oil isn't mandatory, it's just a preventative maintenance practice. As the wood becomes more saturated with oil after multiple applications, the more resistant it'll be to the weather and moisture. The oil when mixed with turpentine does go a long ways, less is required than compared to a stain. I'm in Canada, so many things are more expensive than compared to the US.
Oils can actually cause mould. I’m not sure if the charred method prevents mould or not. I assume the hat on a flat surface where water pools, mould would grow more easily on any surface. I live on Vancouver island so we are constantly battling wet and moist winter mild growth on our cedar deck. I have read that stains and oils can make this worse so was hoping to char my deck and avoid it. Not sure how it will work. I do believe there are different degrees of torching and some people actually burn the wood quite deep.
why not put them side by side and char them AT ONCE. safes you a ton of time and LPG...
You can, only if the wood is straight. The problem is with the crooks, kinks, and bows, gaps are left between the boards and the flames can make it's way through, causing over burned areas.
Tim hortons lol
What type of wood did you use?
Spruce